Only Doddy could present a 12 minute video on the extremely basic task of lubing a chain, and still make it fun and informative. As far as i'm concerned, he is the god of all things tech and maintenance.
Same here one hell of a knowledgeable dude.was watching his brake bleeding video constantly and completed successfully.GMBN is a great channel with a lovely bunch of guys.
Exactly. Also when the chain climbs up and down the cassette you want some lube on the outside of the chain so the shift teeth on the cogs last longer.
This channel vs every other channel on the web differs - attention to detail which I love!! Keep up the great work!!! Really appreciate the detail analysis!!
Hi, I come from a motocross back ground and now mountain bike 5 times a week so I buy 4 Sram GX 12 speed chains and then buy a chain wax that you can boil from putoline and heat on a gas stove and then hang the chains above the hot oil to drip and wipe off excess and when it goes hard put each chain back in there box and then change the chain every two rides or in the summer 3 rides and then re boil, and I get very little chain stretch and less wear on my chain ring and cassette. My last cassette lasted 5000mls with 2 chainrings and no idler wheels and a total off 6 chains in rotation.
I found Finish Line Wet (green liquid) is the best, with a light amount of Preston's Power Steering fluid on top. After you run the chain through a bit, and wipe excess, Power Steering Fluid is amazing against corrosion as well. Try Power Steering Fluid of your choice (with no Stop Leak, as Stop Leak as a plastic additive that may create clogging coating, regular Power Steering Fluid is what you need.)
Used all sorts and the only lube in my experience that vill keep the chain clean for real is a waxbased lube such as Squirtlube. The chain looks shiny when the rest of the drivetrain looks nasty. No more degreaser, only water. Less friction and shifts smooth. Only downside is it can stiffen the links in subzero(celsius) weather if there is too much vax on, Just take excess off the outer with dry rag. Never going back from Squirtlube. Can't understand why people( including gmbn) don't see it's not only for road.
Cause gmbn is sponsored by WD40 and they don't have any wax based lubricant. They would basically say "Yeah you sponsor us, but that wet lube is a joke. Thanks for the money though)" For normal people it seems to tedious. And many people simply don't care that much and expect chains to last for 3000-4000km at max Also, many people simply don't know about waxing
Hi doddy. I have made my own chain lube out of household parafin wax candles and parafin. I heat the candles in an old rice cooker then add parafin to the melted wax after giving the chain very deep clean I just drop the chain in the melted wax and parafin, I then let it 'cook' for about 10 minutes, I then take the chain out and let it cool, I wipe the excess wax from the chain whilst it's still warm, I then put the chain back on the bike, I use this method all year long in all weathers, I have never had any dirt and grime stick to the chain, the secret is to clean all of the parts your chain comes into contact with before you re install the chain. I repeat this method about every 500 miles on a road bike and approximately 300 miles on a mountain bike and cyclo-cross bike. Graham.
I'm using WD 40 chain wax at moment, it's Awesome.. doing them in Aldi for £2.99 at moment... buying one every week , as they are selling them quickly ...
My ebike has 2000km and has .75% chain wear. Started with factory lube and a clean, then another clean and wax lube. Riding near the beach with fine blown sand, I just used motorcycle chain lube. Now all the drive train has been deep cleaned and wax lubed again. Time to degrease and wax a new chain, I got for Xmas.
I was going to comment about wax but looks like I am about 10,000th in line. I'm in Oz so never have to worry about it washing off, only issue is dust (really fine bull dust). I just like the cleanliness of wax, can't beat being able to put the chain back on without getting dirty fingers. Dropping in hot wax is the best but squirt lube is a cracking backup when you can't be bothered/don't have the time.
I can highly recommend the park tool chain cleaner with a biodegradable degreaser. Then I use mucoff wet or dry lubes after drying the chain. All done the night before. I would like to see a ceramic bearing chain would only need little lube.
What about soaking the chain in degreaser drip drying back into the container, then soaking in dry/wet lube and drip drying over a funnel and back into the bottle? Wipe excess and store in a Ziploc bag for later. You could just have two chains and swap them on the fly without any downtime.
Always used same motorex off road chainlube with my mtb than dirtbikes, works at dry and wet conditions nicely. I don't believe those wet and dry lubes, but maybe some day I need to try.
Putoline drytec spray is the bees knees for sandy and dirty stuff. Chain etc.. must be 100% clean and dry before using it the first time. After that its hose off wipe off dry and reapply Putoline drytec spray wait for it to set and wipe excess with rag and ride. If ya don't like the sound of sand a dirt grinding in ya chain you'll be into this stuff.
What i use is a toothbrush and some petrol. It is brilliant at breaking down and stripping away any kind of lubricant black grime and doesn’t need to be washed or wiped off because it evaporated in 30 minutes if you leave it in the sun and come back to backpedal every 5 or so minutes. Use a toothbrush and clean every single thing, the cassette, the chainring, jockeywheels and the chain with soapy water. Then wash it off with regular water and wipe away the water with a dry rag. Then dip your brush in petrol and repeat the whole process, all the hidden gunk between ur chain rollers and jockey wheels and casette which the water couldnt strip away will come right down. Drench your drivetrain with petrol using that toothbrush and keep brushing until all the gunk is loose, pour some water on it, wipe it down and leave it to dry in the sun. Water doesnt completely remove the petrol so backpedal a couple of times while the bike is in the sun every 5 mins. Do it for 30 mins. Then make sure everything is dry and lube everything immediately because petrol literally removes everything, so your chain will rust quick if you dont lube up. I use light machine oil like sewing machine oil, its cheaper than proper bike lubes and does the same job, use the lube very sparingly, putting only half a drop to one drop per link and then wipe it off with a dry rag once the oil has penetrated. Lube ur jockeywheel bushings as well.
Damn! I mostly ride road and commute with a 'cross bike, so GCN tutorials tend to crowd-out GMBN ones, which are the ones that ironically seem to work best for me. I am tempted to say that GMBN ones tend to be more technical or thorough, but haven't watched nearly enough of either channel recently to say.
Got to ask ..... years ago we used to use “Triflow” which worked really well and we cleaned our chains with Kerosene as it cleaned and after rinsing of with water left a film which prevented rust as well, is there a reason to not still use this method?
When buying lube and degreaser think about adding a few $currency$ to get a pack of single use nitrile rubber gloves. Your skin will be thankful and after you are finished you just toss them and walk off with clean hands.
Just buy proper tools, and environmentally friendly degreaser and learn to work away from yourself. How many mechanics do you see walking around with gloves on. Work smart saves you $$$!
if it's not too bad I just lube the chain and let the fresh lube work its way trough and spin the cranks few times, and wipe off the access and the old dirt lube will come off, if needed I lube the chain one more time, and wipe off, but if it's really nasty mess I clean my bike too, and clean my chain with degreaser, I use Muc-Off dry degreaser which also works great for cleaning the rotors, but as you mentioned some degreasers are oily/slippery and has to be washed off with water. I lube the chain quite differently than most, I keep the chain in the smallest cog, and pedal backwards, and lube the links so lube go to the rollers in the chain fast, without making a mess, and I can lube it more securely/accurate/stable and use frame as support for holding the lube bottle steady, I've been doing this for years, other methods will be messier, easier to apply too much lube, make a mess on the floor, drop the bottle and other things. I get the chain perfectly lubed, and clean. this method does not seem to be common, but this is what works the best for me, I haven't seen anyone use my method yet.
I pour some PAG oil into a capped 30mL syringe and take my time to leave three drops of it on each of the 110 rollers on my chain while slowly rotating the crank backwards. Chain on largest cog. Usually takes me 5-10 mins and 1.5 mL of oil. Then i wipe the excess away and pour any left oil back in its 250mL bottle. Oil never ended on floor. Quiet chain and smooth shifting.
@@mtbboy1993 PAG is a fully synthetic polar polymer used as refrigerant lubricant for automotive air conditioning systems. Its formula also contains powerful antiwear additives and metal passivators such as tricresylphosphate. You want the double end capped one because it isn't hygroscopic. If you choose the viscosity grade ISO 46 one you get a chain lube that is as thin as dry lubes (leaving the chain clean) and unaffected by water as wet lubes. The polarity means that it sticks to the metal. It's also cheaper than most high end chain lubes. I paid 12€ for a 250mL bottle of PAG 46.
i use wax lube on my mtb all year long, havent had any issues its awesome. I would like to add that if you're riding in salt (or salty snow if live urban) make sure you wash your chain after you're done riding, salt is nasty and will even rust your brand new stainless steel chain that you lubed perfectly. overal wax lube is prolly the best allrounder, just wash off salt immediatly after rinding and you good (btw salt would destroy any chain with any lube so yeah)
with wax, you must give a fu.. of a very clean chain, the dirt falls off there is no need to clean everything on your drivetrain how easy is that? just apply it from time to time with any oil you wear off the drive components much much more faster, thats the fact ! for me, oiling and cleaning an open chain is completly bullshit
Very nice video. I watch your video with very big interest as I'm new Biker. I have a question. Is it bad if I apply wet lub on the chain for the rainy week but next week is sunny? Thanks
I used to use the park tool degreaser tool after every ride and then relube with Muc-off dry. After 300 miles I bought a cheap chain stretch checker which simply dropped in, thinking it was £2 wasted i threw it over my shoulder. After 600 miles I had to replace the drivetrain as the chain had worn so much it's buggered everything else. The KMC chain replacement instructions says not to degrease the chain at all as it removes the lube deep within the rollers. makes sense really doesn't it. Simply clean it ( i use the muc off bike wash ) then dry and apply a drop of lube to each roller ( not the over lube one miss one Doddy was doing there ) spin it round through every gear to get some lube on the teeth and then wipe off the excess, even with dry lube. No sign of wear this time.
I completely degreased a new one (a KMC Z7) in a degreaser bath, let the degreaser evaporate and then lubed it with low viscosity air conditioning oil, roller by roller, and it's incredibly quiet and clean...
What lube to use for indoor trainer? I usually wax my chains, but it flakes a lot and is difficult to clean my trainer and my mat. Even if not sticky, the flakes do still stick a bit. And to wax the chain, I have to break it, and it dirty process. I consider using a dry lube for indoors, I can cleanly reapply it multiple times. But I can also use a wet lube, it doesn't have dirt and dust to collect. It will last longer but will need an occasional degrease. P.S. The bike at the trainer doesn't leave the trainer.
New to mtb here but I’m mechanically inclined so Doing basic maintenance and I’ll go from there. I bought a small bottle of lube. Got home with several other items And realized the lube bottle, I’d say about three 5 hour energy in size, was $40. I’ve been lubing the families Bikes every ride But there’s got to be a cheaper route????
Hi, I have a RUclips channel in Brazil. DoPedal, as you can see. Most Brazilians won't watch your channel due to the language barrier. Mainly I advocate the use of wax to lubricate bike chains. I'm doing a video on chain lube and would like to know from you whether I can use part of your video, particularly the one on 3:58 . Of course, If I use it, I would give you credit for it. Looking forward to your answer. Mario.
Cleaning chain and the rest of the rotating bits.. Go to the garage use the pressure washer after spraying degrease... Oil or wax chain... Done takes about 2 minutes:) I assume using degrease at a car garage is environment friendly surely they can't let all the oil grease off cars go down the drain... Or not haha
Don't I need to clean the gears before I lube the chain? What to clean em with? If I use degreaser and a rag, the rag gets frayed and bits of cloth are sucked in.
I personally use wax even on my MTB. Also for my commuter that probably sees more rain and muck than my mtb Yes, corrosion resistance isn't great, but it attracts almost no grit/grime and stays silent even after some really wet rides And efficiency is top notch as well. Might be more work, but i have like 4 spare chains readily waxed
@@teravolt6113 depends on conditions. On my mtb about every 250km. On my triathlon bike every 300-350(in dry conditions). On my commuter with a chaincase every 500km I clean them in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Melts the wax and cleans all the dirt. So it's technically not degreasing
@@teravolt6113 ah yes. Now i remember you. I will give polar a try. Seems like a good idea for offroad. But what about efficiency? Ya know of any tests? Up till now MSW has been the fastest tested lube
@@someguy9520 Well, the only thing i can tell you is that time will tell. No tests, even though some PAG oils are used as chain lubes in the industry. By the way, chains are cheap, at least where i live.
ok hello there so i saw in your video that u had two different kinds of wd40 bottles try and wet lube to so i ride my bike to work on a road and when i dont work i tride it on the trails so when its try out i can use the dry lube on the chain but if i ride the trails and when its no raining out i can use the wet lube or if its cold out can i use the wet lube or the dry lube cause i dont know what to use when its cold out which one to use on the chain thats my question im new to the mtb mountain bike community
How many days is the ideal duration of re-lubricating my chain if I ride my bike to work everyday for 20kms. By the way, I used the WD40 all conditions lube. Thanks. Hello from the Philippines😁
Hey there GMBN! I’m new to MTB and trying my best to get my head around differing advice. Th is for your great vids! My local bike shop said not to use WD40 to clean my chain and they have me some “rock n roll oil” which looks very different to what you’re using as a dry lube. It says to “really coat” the chain... whereas you suggest just drilling the lube on. Am I getting the right advice from my local/chain bike store? Should I use wd40 to clean my chain and find a different dry lube?
Don't use some thick oil or something like that it will collect way too much mud and grid. Some dry lube will do its job best in most conditions, i think. The brand is not that important..
RE: lube outside vs inside of chain → one word: GRAVITY. It doesn't matter, because gravity. You can even watch it and see it doesn't matter. The lube goes on, it flows into the gap between the plates and the roller to the pins, (presumably BETWEEN THE ROLLER AND PIN via cappilary action) and it flows around the outside of the roller itself and collects into a drip on the bottom side of the roller.
Gravity, but also POLARITY. You need a lubricant which has some polarity, so that it bonds to the metal and won't ever leave it until you treat it with a strong solvent. Polyolester is an example of a polar lubricant.
Yeah, was also suprised why doddy said that. He also didn't really give any reason why wax shouldn't work. Smells like Wd40 doesn't have a wax based lubricant yet to promote
Hey Doddy! What do you think of Prolink Chain Lube? I have been using this product for some years. It claims that it lubes and cleans my transmission in any weather and any terrain. It claims to be environmentally friendly and non-staining. It does lubricate my chain but it can look dark on my chain too.
I love Prolink, especially in the winter. I don't have a place to wash my bike in the winter so I just wipe down my chain and gears, apply more Prolink to "rinse" out more of the grime and salt (commuter bike), wipe away the gunk and excess lube. Maybe add one more layer of lube. The chain looks very clean and has not rusted. Prolink does turn dark very quickly but apparently it is normal.
How I lube my Chain: 1. Clean the chain with a jet washer 2. Wipe off the chain 3. Apply dish soap on the chain Dish soap is a very good lubricant because it is slippery and slides well 4. Let it dry 10h then you can go ride your bike :D
@@David54534 Well you never know what people do. But I am curious about the dish soap being corrosive or not as it is way cheaper than a bike branded cleaner.
how do I take off my chain and then put that same chain back on my bike? i have a chaintool but that only seems to be usefull for taking of the chain... is there any way i can put a chain back on the bike once taken off?
In a pinch you could go try reseating the very pin you opened the chain at using your chain tool - but to do that you don't drive it out all the way, it has to get stuck in the far side of the joint you opened. Then there is *replacement pins* - drive'em in with your chain tool, break off the end (that is needed for mounting only) and you're off. _Best way_ though is using a *master link* - two outer plates with an interlocking pin each. This thing replaces one of your chain's segments and can be opened over and over again.
Can you please touch upon wheel flop as I have just got a bike with a slacker head angle and have only now felt this sensation for the first time and found out about what it is, and if possible how to possibly ease this sensation. Would wider bars help, as I'm only riding 740mm bars. #AskGMBNTech
Feels weird, right?! 😅 Wider bars and a shorter stem will help you "fight" this phenomenon, but it is rooted in the geometry of a bike, a force that has to be countered/managed - so you'll have to get used to it over time. (A shorter fork, a fork with less trail or slimmer tires might have (minimal) effects as well.)
It does, I was like what is this... I thought I was going mad haha. It's so strange I have literally never heard anybody mention it before. Thought that might be the case, so strange just feels like the bike wants to fight you at lower speeds... Cool good to know I am not the only one. Might go a smidge wider on the bars my stem is at 50mm so not too bad on that front :/ thanks for the reply.
Why not use original wd40 every single ride. Yes it’s not a “lube” but if used that often it’s a great cleaner and luber. Honestly should work just fine???? Thoughts?
Silicon is best for any rubber seals with a lot of friction. A small spray on the stanchions of your fork, rear shock and dropper post right at the seals. Careful to avoid spraying on your brake rotors, despite what Tomi says. Do a few pumps through each one and wipe off all the dirt that gets pulled out and wipe off any remaining silicon lube as it will attract dirt. Your seals will now be clean and lightly lubed. You'll love how smooth they work and your seals will lasts forever... well almost.
If you are looking for a budget friendly bike you may also look for cheap chinese carbon bikes, I heard there is no difference in quality compared to an expensive setup.
@Costa del Artlepool Yes, indeed, in China there are large factories working for well known brands like GIANT, wouldn't be a surprise if those cheap frames come from the same factories. I am also looking for a good carbon bike frame.
Not really. I think he said it can be used to give the chain a quick clean if it's not too dirty. The advantage is that it will evaporate quickly, and you can then re-lube and ride away.
I'm a weekend rider. I usually clean and lube my chain a day or two before my ride. I recently finished a ride and since my bike was covered in mud, I cleaned and lubed my bike when I got home. My next ride is in three weeks. How long can I leave my bike unridden with fresh lube before I should lube again? I use dry lube so will it dry out? #askgmbn
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7:03 - cleaning the chain
9:19 - lubing the chain
Wish I read this first
Thank you
Thanks bro 😀
Only Doddy could present a 12 minute video on the extremely basic task of lubing a chain, and still make it fun and informative. As far as i'm concerned, he is the god of all things tech and maintenance.
Same here one hell of a knowledgeable dude.was watching his brake bleeding video constantly and completed successfully.GMBN is a great channel with a lovely bunch of guys.
I am just getting into biking. Just purchased my first real mountain bike. This series and the GMBN channel have been great!
2:28 You dont just need to lube the roller, you also need to lube between the outside and inside link as they move against each other
Exactly. Also when the chain climbs up and down the cassette you want some lube on the outside of the chain so the shift teeth on the cogs last longer.
This channel vs every other channel on the web differs - attention to detail which I love!! Keep up the great work!!! Really appreciate the detail analysis!!
Awesome to hear, thanks Michelle! 👍
Hi, I come from a motocross back ground and now mountain bike 5 times a week so I buy 4 Sram GX 12 speed chains and then buy a chain wax that you can boil from putoline and heat on a gas stove and then hang the chains above the hot oil to drip and wipe off excess and when it goes hard put each chain back in there box and then change the chain every two rides or in the summer 3 rides and then re boil, and I get very little chain stretch and less wear on my chain ring and cassette. My last cassette lasted 5000mls with 2 chainrings and no idler wheels and a total off 6 chains in rotation.
I found Finish Line Wet (green liquid) is the best, with a light amount of Preston's Power Steering fluid on top. After you run the chain through a bit, and wipe excess, Power Steering Fluid is amazing against corrosion as well.
Try Power Steering Fluid of your choice (with no Stop Leak, as Stop Leak as a plastic additive that may create clogging coating, regular Power Steering Fluid is what you need.)
I use Triflow all year round. Lube after each ride and wipe off.
Tri flow is good shi..
Used all sorts and the only lube in my experience that vill keep the chain clean for real is a waxbased lube such as Squirtlube. The chain looks shiny when the rest of the drivetrain looks nasty. No more degreaser, only water. Less friction and shifts smooth. Only downside is it can stiffen the links in subzero(celsius) weather if there is too much vax on, Just take excess off the outer with dry rag. Never going back from Squirtlube. Can't understand why people( including gmbn) don't see it's not only for road.
Cause gmbn is sponsored by WD40 and they don't have any wax based lubricant. They would basically say "Yeah you sponsor us, but that wet lube is a joke. Thanks for the money though)"
For normal people it seems to tedious. And many people simply don't care that much and expect chains to last for 3000-4000km at max
Also, many people simply don't know about waxing
Hi doddy.
I have made my own chain lube out of household parafin wax candles and parafin.
I heat the candles in an old rice cooker then add parafin to the melted wax after giving the chain very deep clean I just drop the chain in the melted wax and parafin, I then let it 'cook' for about 10 minutes, I then take the chain out and let it cool, I wipe the excess wax from the chain whilst it's still warm, I then put the chain back on the bike, I use this method all year long in all weathers, I have never had any dirt and grime stick to the chain, the secret is to clean all of the parts your chain comes into contact with before you re install the chain.
I repeat this method about every 500 miles on a road bike and approximately 300 miles on a mountain bike and cyclo-cross bike.
Graham.
Double end capped PAG 46. Excellent chain lube. Sticks to the metal like nothing else and water won't even touch it.
10:02 My chain lubing OCD is hurting! :) Nice video Doddy!
Thanks Doddy, I've always lubed my chain at the cassette. Makes total since to lube the chain under the chain stay. Cheers!
WOW. Good tip. I had no idea degreasers were bad for brakes.
I use 3 in 1 - certainly seems much better than any bicycle specific lube - used it on RAB 2019
I'm using WD 40 chain wax at moment, it's Awesome.. doing them in Aldi for £2.99 at moment... buying one every week , as they are selling them quickly ...
Same here
Great channel.These guys helped my bleed my brakes for the first time and it was successful.next going tubeless.
My ebike has 2000km and has .75% chain wear. Started with factory lube and a clean, then another clean and wax lube. Riding near the beach with fine blown sand, I just used motorcycle chain lube. Now all the drive train has been deep cleaned and wax lubed again. Time to degrease and wax a new chain, I got for Xmas.
I was going to comment about wax but looks like I am about 10,000th in line. I'm in Oz so never have to worry about it washing off, only issue is dust (really fine bull dust). I just like the cleanliness of wax, can't beat being able to put the chain back on without getting dirty fingers. Dropping in hot wax is the best but squirt lube is a cracking backup when you can't be bothered/don't have the time.
I can highly recommend the park tool chain cleaner with a biodegradable degreaser. Then I use mucoff wet or dry lubes after drying the chain. All done the night before.
I would like to see a ceramic bearing chain would only need little lube.
What about soaking the chain in degreaser drip drying back into the container, then soaking in dry/wet lube and drip drying over a funnel and back into the bottle? Wipe excess and store in a Ziploc bag for later. You could just have two chains and swap them on the fly without any downtime.
Thanks so much for this Doddy, first time on the channel, and you've explained stuff so well, that I've never realised for years, much appreciated.
In a very wet/muddy environment I choose graphite grease, it keeps in place and remains longer than just lube.
Please do a guide on dirt mountain bike gear, I.e coats, shoes, helmets, etc!!! Be so helpful!!!
great video, very informative
super super helpful, great Job Doddy!
I love doddy! Always a wealth of great tech info
Always used same motorex off road chainlube with my mtb than dirtbikes, works at dry and wet conditions nicely. I don't believe those wet and dry lubes, but maybe some day I need to try.
Putoline drytec spray is the bees knees for sandy and dirty stuff.
Chain etc.. must be 100% clean and dry before using it the first time.
After that its hose off wipe off dry and reapply Putoline drytec spray wait for it to set and wipe excess with rag and ride.
If ya don't like the sound of sand a dirt grinding in ya chain you'll be into this stuff.
What i use is a toothbrush and some petrol. It is brilliant at breaking down and stripping away any kind of lubricant black grime and doesn’t need to be washed or wiped off because it evaporated in 30 minutes if you leave it in the sun and come back to backpedal every 5 or so minutes.
Use a toothbrush and clean every single thing, the cassette, the chainring, jockeywheels and the chain with soapy water. Then wash it off with regular water and wipe away the water with a dry rag. Then dip your brush in petrol and repeat the whole process, all the hidden gunk between ur chain rollers and jockey wheels and casette which the water couldnt strip away will come right down. Drench your drivetrain with petrol using that toothbrush and keep brushing until all the gunk is loose, pour some water on it, wipe it down and leave it to dry in the sun. Water doesnt completely remove the petrol so backpedal a couple of times while the bike is in the sun every 5 mins. Do it for 30 mins. Then make sure everything is dry and lube everything immediately because petrol literally removes everything, so your chain will rust quick if you dont lube up. I use light machine oil like sewing machine oil, its cheaper than proper bike lubes and does the same job, use the lube very sparingly, putting only half a drop to one drop per link and then wipe it off with a dry rag once the oil has penetrated. Lube ur jockeywheel bushings as well.
I used Gt-85 as a chain lube regardless of conditions for 10 years and still on the same chain.
Crankilicious ceramic lube...only stuff that helps reduce my noisy Eagle DT....great year round even in wet/muddy
best tutorial on chain lube on you tube
Solid direction!!
Damn! I mostly ride road and commute with a 'cross bike, so GCN tutorials tend to crowd-out GMBN ones, which are the ones that ironically seem to work best for me. I am tempted to say that GMBN ones tend to be more technical or thorough, but haven't watched nearly enough of either channel recently to say.
Got to ask ..... years ago we used to use “Triflow” which worked really well and we cleaned our chains with Kerosene as it cleaned and after rinsing of with water left a film which prevented rust as well, is there a reason to not still use this method?
When buying lube and degreaser think about adding a few $currency$ to get a pack of single use nitrile rubber gloves.
Your skin will be thankful and after you are finished you just toss them and walk off with clean hands.
Yeah one time use age, producing mountains of rubbish, same with coffee cups etc...
Yeah, I like to throw my old gloves in the ocean, the dolphins like to play with them.
Waste of money and creates unnecessary rubbish
Just buy proper tools, and environmentally friendly degreaser and learn to work away from yourself. How many mechanics do you see walking around with gloves on. Work smart saves you $$$!
Must be a roadie.
Super interesting video! Taught me a few things :)
if it's not too bad I just lube the chain and let the fresh lube work its way trough and spin the cranks few times, and wipe off the access and the old dirt lube will come off, if needed I lube the chain one more time, and wipe off, but if it's really nasty mess I clean my bike too, and clean my chain with degreaser, I use Muc-Off dry degreaser which also works great for cleaning the rotors, but as you mentioned some degreasers are oily/slippery and has to be washed off with water.
I lube the chain quite differently than most, I keep the chain in the smallest cog, and pedal backwards, and lube the links so lube go to the rollers in the chain fast, without making a mess, and I can lube it more securely/accurate/stable and use frame as support for holding the lube bottle steady, I've been doing this for years, other methods will be messier, easier to apply too much lube, make a mess on the floor, drop the bottle and other things.
I get the chain perfectly lubed, and clean.
this method does not seem to be common, but this is what works the best for me, I haven't seen anyone use my method yet.
I pour some PAG oil into a capped 30mL syringe and take my time to leave three drops of it on each of the 110 rollers on my chain while slowly rotating the crank backwards. Chain on largest cog. Usually takes me 5-10 mins and 1.5 mL of oil. Then i wipe the excess away and pour any left oil back in its 250mL bottle. Oil never ended on floor. Quiet chain and smooth shifting.
@@teravolt6113 I have not heard of Pag oil before,thx for sharing.
@@mtbboy1993 PAG is a fully synthetic polar polymer used as refrigerant lubricant for automotive air conditioning systems. Its formula also contains powerful antiwear additives and metal passivators such as tricresylphosphate. You want the double end capped one because it isn't hygroscopic. If you choose the viscosity grade ISO 46 one you get a chain lube that is as thin as dry lubes (leaving the chain clean) and unaffected by water as wet lubes. The polarity means that it sticks to the metal. It's also cheaper than most high end chain lubes. I paid 12€ for a 250mL bottle of PAG 46.
since i use liquid wax instead of the oil mess, the problems go a way, all over the year in all conditions like snow with salt, mud, dust etc.
I totally agree, no buildup, long lasting and inexpensive. Oz cycle has excellent videos on how to make and apply it. No sponsor promotions either.
i use wax lube on my mtb all year long, havent had any issues its awesome. I would like to add that if you're riding in salt (or salty snow if live urban) make sure you wash your chain after you're done riding, salt is nasty and will even rust your brand new stainless steel chain that you lubed perfectly. overal wax lube is prolly the best allrounder, just wash off salt immediatly after rinding and you good (btw salt would destroy any chain with any lube so yeah)
I use regular oil and I don't have any build ups, I clean the chain everytime so it's as clean as possible
Wax lube makes a horrible mess when it mixes with the dry clay dust where I live. Best bet is dry lube here!
with wax, you must give a fu.. of a very clean chain, the dirt falls off there is no need to clean everything on your drivetrain
how easy is that?
just apply it from time to time
with any oil you wear off the drive components much much more faster, thats the fact !
for me, oiling and cleaning an open chain is completly bullshit
Great video and excellent series "Essentials". How much time before the ride should we apply the lube? For either wet or dry lube.
Very nice video. I watch your video with very big interest as I'm new Biker.
I have a question. Is it bad if I apply wet lub on the chain for the rainy week but next week is sunny?
Thanks
I used to use the park tool degreaser tool after every ride and then relube with Muc-off dry.
After 300 miles I bought a cheap chain stretch checker which simply dropped in, thinking it was £2 wasted i threw it over my shoulder.
After 600 miles I had to replace the drivetrain as the chain had worn so much it's buggered everything else.
The KMC chain replacement instructions says not to degrease the chain at all as it removes the lube deep within the rollers. makes sense really doesn't it.
Simply clean it ( i use the muc off bike wash ) then dry and apply a drop of lube to each roller ( not the over lube one miss one Doddy was doing there ) spin it round through every gear to get some lube on the teeth and then wipe off the excess, even with dry lube.
No sign of wear this time.
I completely degreased a new one (a KMC Z7) in a degreaser bath, let the degreaser evaporate and then lubed it with low viscosity air conditioning oil, roller by roller, and it's incredibly quiet and clean...
What lube to use for indoor trainer? I usually wax my chains, but it flakes a lot and is difficult to clean my trainer and my mat. Even if not sticky, the flakes do still stick a bit. And to wax the chain, I have to break it, and it dirty process. I consider using a dry lube for indoors, I can cleanly reapply it multiple times. But I can also use a wet lube, it doesn't have dirt and dust to collect. It will last longer but will need an occasional degrease. P.S. The bike at the trainer doesn't leave the trainer.
I have a question about how often to clean the chain. I also want to ask about if having high end jockey wheels worth it
extremely helpful
Great video!
Just great and informative video’s. Cheers 🍻
This was Awesome! thanks man!
New to mtb here but I’m mechanically inclined so Doing basic maintenance and I’ll go from there. I bought a small bottle of lube. Got home with several other items
And realized the lube bottle, I’d say about three 5 hour energy in size, was $40. I’ve been lubing the families
Bikes every ride
But there’s got to be a cheaper route????
I always use standard WD40 and make sure I spray it from the drivetrain side and towards the brake calliper
Hi, I have a RUclips channel in Brazil. DoPedal, as you can see. Most Brazilians won't watch your channel due to the language barrier. Mainly I advocate the use of wax to lubricate bike chains. I'm doing a video on chain lube and would like to know from you whether I can use part of your video, particularly the one on 3:58 . Of course, If I use it, I would give you credit for it. Looking forward to your answer. Mario.
Cleaning chain and the rest of the rotating bits.. Go to the garage use the pressure washer after spraying degrease... Oil or wax chain... Done takes about 2 minutes:) I assume using degrease at a car garage is environment friendly surely they can't let all the oil grease off cars go down the drain... Or not haha
Good video thanks.
Great advice here. Seems like a simple job, but many of us still get it wrong.
Check out the rest of the essential series for more on the intricacies of the simple stuff!
thanks a lot
When buying lube you should know what kind of lube will you buy
Don't I need to clean the gears before I lube the chain? What to clean em with? If I use degreaser and a rag, the rag gets frayed and bits of cloth are sucked in.
What if I use the Squirt lube, on my chain and my mountain bike rides? Or using some kind of wax chain lube
I personally use wax even on my MTB. Also for my commuter that probably sees more rain and muck than my mtb
Yes, corrosion resistance isn't great, but it attracts almost no grit/grime and stays silent even after some really wet rides
And efficiency is top notch as well. Might be more work, but i have like 4 spare chains readily waxed
How often do you degrease and rewax it? Out of curiosity.
@@teravolt6113 depends on conditions. On my mtb about every 250km. On my triathlon bike every 300-350(in dry conditions). On my commuter with a chaincase every 500km
I clean them in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Melts the wax and cleans all the dirt.
So it's technically not degreasing
@@someguy9520 Interesting, i see that wax vs polar lubricant could be a very interesting debate.
@@teravolt6113 ah yes. Now i remember you. I will give polar a try. Seems like a good idea for offroad. But what about efficiency? Ya know of any tests? Up till now MSW has been the fastest tested lube
@@someguy9520 Well, the only thing i can tell you is that time will tell. No tests, even though some PAG oils are used as chain lubes in the industry. By the way, chains are cheap, at least where i live.
ok hello there so i saw in your video that u had two different kinds of wd40 bottles try and wet lube to so i ride my bike to work on a road and when i dont work i tride it on the trails so when its try out i can use the dry lube on the chain but if i ride the trails and when its no raining out i can use the wet lube or if its cold out can i use the wet lube or the dry lube cause i dont know what to use when its cold out which one to use on the chain thats my question im new to the mtb mountain bike community
How many days is the ideal duration of re-lubricating my chain if I ride my bike to work everyday for 20kms. By the way, I used the WD40 all conditions lube. Thanks. Hello from the Philippines😁
When you mention WD-40 as a solvent, is that standard formula WD-40, or bike specific?
The plain ordinary stuff, he's using it as a cleaner on a rag to wipe the chain before lube.
Do we need lubricate brand new chain? SRAM chain comes with some "sticky" lube
Hey there GMBN! I’m new to MTB and trying my best to get my head around differing advice. Th is for your great vids!
My local bike shop said not to use WD40 to clean my chain and they have me some “rock n roll oil” which looks very different to what you’re using as a dry lube. It says to “really coat” the chain... whereas you suggest just drilling the lube on. Am I getting the right advice from my local/chain bike store? Should I use wd40 to clean my chain and find a different dry lube?
Don't use some thick oil or something like that it will collect way too much mud and grid. Some dry lube will do its job best in most conditions, i think. The brand is not that important..
What about frequency
I always just spray loads of "Chain Lubricant" Spray on it, and powder it afterwards with Graphite powder...
#ask gmbn tech. How good is muck off hydro oil for mtb chains, I'm using c3 and c4 at the moment, so curious of this one but abit pricey. Thankyou
How long does a bottle of lubricant last?
Can you use spray lube for mtb?
RE: lube outside vs inside of chain → one word: GRAVITY. It doesn't matter, because gravity. You can even watch it and see it doesn't matter. The lube goes on, it flows into the gap between the plates and the roller to the pins, (presumably BETWEEN THE ROLLER AND PIN via cappilary action) and it flows around the outside of the roller itself and collects into a drip on the bottom side of the roller.
Gravity, but also POLARITY. You need a lubricant which has some polarity, so that it bonds to the metal and won't ever leave it until you treat it with a strong solvent. Polyolester is an example of a polar lubricant.
Do i need to apply lube to new mtb chain??
Effective
Why wouldn't you wax your chain to get the benefits of that on a MtB as a Road rider might?
Yeah, was also suprised why doddy said that.
He also didn't really give any reason why wax shouldn't work.
Smells like Wd40 doesn't have a wax based lubricant yet to promote
Is it correct to wipe off excessive lube even when using a dry one? Is it eccessive?
... so you're asking whether it's considered excessive to wipe off excessive lube?! 😵
Is excessive lube excessive? Hmm.. 🤔
Can you spray WD-40 into a rag then use that on the chain for a lubricant?
Anyone have any thoughts on “waxing” a chain for off road use?? Been debating it recently.....
Hello, can I use oil instead of wet or dry lube? 🤔🚲
Mohammadesmail Nazari no
Hey Doddy! What do you think of Prolink Chain Lube? I have been using this product for some years. It claims that it lubes and cleans my transmission in any weather and any terrain. It claims to be environmentally friendly and non-staining. It does lubricate my chain but it can look dark on my chain too.
I love Prolink, especially in the winter. I don't have a place to wash my bike in the winter so I just wipe down my chain and gears, apply more Prolink to "rinse" out more of the grime and salt (commuter bike), wipe away the gunk and excess lube. Maybe add one more layer of lube. The chain looks very clean and has not rusted. Prolink does turn dark very quickly but apparently it is normal.
My friend says he uses a petrol soak to clean and degrease his chain and drive train.
Does this work and is it ok for the drivetrain?
It works, but it's harmful for the environment, so don't do it.
Tomi Saaranen well I will do more miles to the gallon on my bike than my car👍
@@stephenmurphy4360 No, I mean it getting to nature.
I use paraffin to clean my bike chains works fine
How I lube my Chain:
1. Clean the chain with a jet washer
2. Wipe off the chain
3. Apply dish soap on the chain
Dish soap is a very good lubricant because it is slippery and slides well
4. Let it dry 10h then you can go ride your bike :D
@@newttella1043 oh man it was a joke XD
@@David54534 Well you never know what people do. But I am curious about the dish soap being corrosive or not as it is way cheaper than a bike branded cleaner.
Can you use motorcycle chain lube on a bike?
I use WD40's dry lube all throughout the year.
does it work
isa9engineer a yes, just make sure to rub some on your brakes to lube them too 👍
@@jamesdecker4166 **dont do this**
I need the intermediate lube 👍🏻
how do I take off my chain and then put that same chain back on my bike? i have a chaintool but that only seems to be usefull for taking of the chain... is there any way i can put a chain back on the bike once taken off?
In a pinch you could go try reseating the very pin you opened the chain at using your chain tool - but to do that you don't drive it out all the way, it has to get stuck in the far side of the joint you opened.
Then there is *replacement pins* - drive'em in with your chain tool, break off the end (that is needed for mounting only) and you're off.
_Best way_ though is using a *master link* - two outer plates with an interlocking pin each. This thing replaces one of your chain's segments and can be opened over and over again.
check your chain very closely. one of your link should look different than the rest. check this video: ruclips.net/video/-CnoKjUU0vg/видео.html
Can you please touch upon wheel flop as I have just got a bike with a slacker head angle and have only now felt this sensation for the first time and found out about what it is, and if possible how to possibly ease this sensation. Would wider bars help, as I'm only riding 740mm bars. #AskGMBNTech
Feels weird, right?! 😅
Wider bars and a shorter stem will help you "fight" this phenomenon, but it is rooted in the geometry of a bike, a force that has to be countered/managed - so you'll have to get used to it over time.
(A shorter fork, a fork with less trail or slimmer tires might have (minimal) effects as well.)
It does, I was like what is this... I thought I was going mad haha. It's so strange I have literally never heard anybody mention it before. Thought that might be the case, so strange just feels like the bike wants to fight you at lower speeds... Cool good to know I am not the only one. Might go a smidge wider on the bars my stem is at 50mm so not too bad on that front :/ thanks for the reply.
Always surprises me the amount of gel he uses
Why not use original wd40 every single ride. Yes it’s not a “lube” but if used that often it’s a great cleaner and luber. Honestly should work just fine???? Thoughts?
Once you wax you’ll not go back 😉
True
What’s your thoughts on “WD-40 Bike All Conditions Lube” ?
Same question too
Hey GMBN, can you PLEASE let me know what parts of your bike you recommend SILICONE SPRAY on?? Thank you
Every part, especially your brake pads and discs.
Silicon is best for any rubber seals with a lot of friction. A small spray on the stanchions of your fork, rear shock and dropper post right at the seals. Careful to avoid spraying on your brake rotors, despite what Tomi says. Do a few pumps through each one and wipe off all the dirt that gets pulled out and wipe off any remaining silicon lube as it will attract dirt. Your seals will now be clean and lightly lubed. You'll love how smooth they work and your seals will lasts forever... well almost.
@@newttella1043 Yeah, it was a joke DO NOT do what I said!!!
@@th_js I know you were :) But this video is meant for beginners and I wouldn't want anyone to make an expensive mistake.
Where would you say is the best place to buy a second hand bike?
@Harry Peters thanks ill have a look
If you are looking for a budget friendly bike you may also look for cheap chinese carbon bikes, I heard there is no difference in quality compared to an expensive setup.
@@DrNPCabd I've heard of, had and seen chinese parts break way before they should - *DANGEROUS!*
@Costa del Artlepool Yes, indeed, in China there are large factories working for well known brands like GIANT, wouldn't be a surprise if those cheap frames come from the same factories.
I am also looking for a good carbon bike frame.
@Costa del Artlepool 🤔 You say they're binnig their stuff and keep a lot of crap for the exports?! Interesting.
so can i use wd40 as degreaser?
Not really. I think he said it can be used to give the chain a quick clean if it's not too dirty. The advantage is that it will evaporate quickly, and you can then re-lube and ride away.
#askgmbn how good is hydro oil by muck off please
I'm a weekend rider. I usually clean and lube my chain a day or two before my ride. I recently finished a ride and since my bike was covered in mud, I cleaned and lubed my bike when I got home. My next ride is in three weeks. How long can I leave my bike unridden with fresh lube before I should lube again? I use dry lube so will it dry out? #askgmbn
Do you have any common sense or?
Are we really talking about chains??? Just Staph it!! 😂😂😂. Someone buy Doddy a Pint 🍺. Cheers!!
i just soak it in regular wd40, let the solvent dry, done. It provides enough lubricant
We find it's best to use a proper chain lube over this for maximum protection.
Finish Line No Drip Chain Luber........ You all can thank me later!
Finsh line wet lube. It Don't get much beter.
Try synthetic air conditioning compressor lubricants too and you'll be impressed.
For every 1 hour riding you need to spend 4 on servicing your bike.
Atleast based on these videos.