I have processed hundreds of sheets of 8x10 and larger film in Expert drums and have never had a scratch from the drum. Thousands of experienced photographers have had similar experience.
The local art supply recycle store provided me with drums for 16x20 and 8-10 prints I assume, though 8x10 negatives would work. A moter came from eBay. I will be at them later this year. Big trays with gallons of chemicals are way difficult but it does the job. I hope the drums will make the work easier to do, especially the 16x20 prints.
I use the Jobo 2500 series print tank to process my 18x24cm and 13x18cm sheet film too, but mine has a cup similar like that on your Cibachrome tank. You should look for one as it is more convenient.
Second the comment on the paper safe. They're cheap, easy to find and I feel a little slow for using a regular tray with a slab of plastic all these years... :-)
Great overview showing 4 different methods. I have the Unicolor 352 Uniroller. Regarding those I'd like to add that overtime the lubrication may seize up. Manually rotating may free it up. This worked for a unit I bought on Ebay.
+rwl7532 I have several backup roller bases in case one breaks. Anymore certain developer equipment can be purchased secondhand for so little I often buy more than one.
Craig. Great and helpful videos. Quick question - for the Jobo 2563, how many ML’s of chemicals are you using to process two 8x10 sheets? I use a Cibachrome drum now but am considering getting the Jobo to be able to process two at a time. Thanks!
Graig good morning, I would like to know if you know the Durst Codrum 304 Tank, I saw on Ebay, with this tank if it can develop 2 sheets of 8x10, you know, you've heard of it. Thank you very much for the attention Decio
Hi Craig been watching your videos-regarding the JOBO Multitank 6 2563, I don't need to use any form of reels to develop 8x10 sheet film correct? This is by virtue of the fact that there are ridges on the lining of the drum to hold arced sheets in place. Did I get that right? I find that the 2563 is a cheaper alternative to the 3005, especially that I don't think I will be developing that much 8x10 negatives all the time. Hope to hear from you.
I apologize ahead of time for this question since I'm new to large format and developing. I have sourced a Cibachrome and Unicolor base. Do I need just one Cibachrome or do I need three for all the development phases? Or do you run the developer, than take the lid off and pour out the developer and add stop bath and then remove that and add the fixer? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks...
One other question, the one that I sourced has the top with the cup that you described. Then it has a "light baffle" and that goes into a "bottom outlet cup" The bottom cup looks as if it has holes in it. Does the light baffle cover the holes so the chemistry doesn't come out while on the motorized base? Thanks!
+Spencer Pullen First thing you should do is take the cup off and pour water into it until it is almost to the top. Then pour the water into a graduated cylinder. Whatever volume it reads is the amount you should use for all the chemicals. The way they are designed is to put the film/paper (emulsion facing toward the inside of the drum) into the drum in the dark and then put the lid with the cup in place on. Once that is done you can turn the lights on and work in room light. Stand the drum up and pour the first chemical in (prewash first if you prefer). It will pour into the cup and not enter the drum until you tip it to the horizontal position. Set it horizontally on the motor base and then start. The holes on the bottom of the drum are to allow the chemical to pour out once tipped vertical again. Then pour in second chemical, repeat procedure, then next chemical, etc... After the fixer (if doing B&W) I remove the lid and then fix it in a tray for another 2 minutes just to make sure. When you tip the drum horizontally a bit might come out from the bottom, it's not a problem as it is just a small amount, but thought you should know. I would practice once without film in the drum and just use water so you get a feel for how it works.
+Spencer Pullen One drum is all you need. And whatever you do DO NOT remove the lid once the film is inside until after the fixer. The chemicals are poured into the top and enter the cup, then once horizontal they enter the drum, then when vertical again they come out of the bottom.
My boss has lent me a Jobo 3010 drum, but I don't have the motor base. Do you think it would be worth trying just rolling it back and forth on a flat surface? I know I could just try it but I hate to waste time and film if it's a goofy idea.
+Mike Thomas I built a base out of caster wheels and a board that you can pick up at a hardware store. I just manually rotate it for the bigger drums that won't fit on the motor base. I have rolled the drum on a flat surface before and it works fine. Just make sure it is level and that you rotate the drum at least 380 degrees alternating direction.
+Mike Thomas getting the lid off of an Expert drum can be difficult if you don't have the Jobo pump to remove the lid. I did finally get a pump, but prior to that, as strange as it sounds, I would just place my mouth on the opening and blow air into the drum. The lid would pop right off. Be careful of your teeth though. I know it sounds strange, but it works and I did it for many years that way with no problem.
Have you ever noticed any uneven development with your film in these tubes, or need to fix/dev in a tank afterwards to help remove the anti-halation layer? I was reading up on anecdotal reviews in ---- and found this advice from Jobo USA from 1998 on why to use the Expert drums instead of the Print drums (get liquid behind the film and smooth side with no ribs that could scratch the film) -- though you seem to actually find micro-scratches on the back of your film from the Expert drum. uneven results: www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/jobo-8x10-expert-drum-vs-jobo-2850-for-8x10-negatives.50963/ advice from Jobo: groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!msg/rec.photo.darkroom/aJU-ZmZ5Kt4/ttPcTa20kkwJ www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?11719-Both-film-and-paper-in-a-Jobo-2850 Also, CatLABS got the CL81 reel (www.catlabs.info/CL81 ) for 3 sheets of 8x10 created on kickstarter for use in the Multitank 5 drum: www.catlabs.info/product/jobo-2550-multitank-5 I presume it would work in the Multitank 6 too?
+bwvids The tubes are extremely reliable and development is always even. I fix for the full time in the tube, but do put the sheets in a fixer tray afterward for about two minutes. I really don't think it is necessary, but would rather be on the safe side. I would really like the Jobo expert drum to not have the micro scratches. Honestly they might not even show in the prints, but I don't want to risk it. I should probably sell it, since they are going for such high prices. Though I am afraid I might regret it. I was lucky enough to get it for a great price. Basically it was with a large quantity of Jobo tanks I purchased for a very good price. I am familiar with the CatLABS CL81 (never used it), but it looks awkward to load. I am glad that people are still making large format equipment though.
I never thought about using my paper safes for stand... awesome. thanks for the tip..
I have processed hundreds of sheets of 8x10 and larger film in Expert drums and have never had a scratch from the drum. Thousands of experienced photographers have had similar experience.
I have never had scratches with this drum!!
You are really good at instructional videos
Thank you for this post. Very informative.
thanks for the reviewing these tanks ! I am using a Unicolor drum and motor base. I love it.
So inspiring that you work so hard to conserve an endangered technology.
Awesome - thanks for sharing!
Interesting tip on the paper safe. I hadn't thought about that for stand dev. It makes lots of sense and they sure are cheap enough.
Good job. Thank you.
Excellent
The local art supply recycle store provided me with drums for 16x20 and 8-10 prints I assume, though 8x10 negatives would work. A moter came from eBay. I will be at them later this year. Big trays with gallons of chemicals are way difficult but it does the job. I hope the drums will make the work easier to do, especially the 16x20 prints.
I use the Jobo 2500 series print tank to process my 18x24cm and 13x18cm sheet film too, but mine has a cup similar like that on your Cibachrome tank. You should look for one as it is more convenient.
Great Video! Can you expose the film sheets to the red safe light that is used for printing or is has to be pitch black with no lights whatsoever?
Second the comment on the paper safe. They're cheap, easy to find and I feel a little slow for using a regular tray with a slab of plastic all these years... :-)
Great overview showing 4 different methods. I have the Unicolor 352 Uniroller. Regarding those I'd like to add that overtime the lubrication may seize up. Manually rotating may free it up. This worked for a unit I bought on Ebay.
+rwl7532 I have several backup roller bases in case one breaks. Anymore certain developer equipment can be purchased secondhand for so little I often buy more than one.
+Craig Sheaks That one Uniroller was my 2nd one. It was in its original box. You are right, they add so much value it makes sense to have a backup!
I almost threw mine out because it stopped and then I saw your comment, spun the wheels and added some oil and now it works. Thanks!
Paper safe is a good idea.
Craig. Great and helpful videos. Quick question - for the Jobo 2563, how many ML’s of chemicals are you using to process two 8x10 sheets? I use a Cibachrome drum now but am considering getting the Jobo to be able to process two at a time. Thanks!
Graig good morning, I would like to know if you know the Durst Codrum 304 Tank, I saw on Ebay, with this tank if it can develop 2 sheets of 8x10, you know, you've heard of it. Thank you very much for the attention
Decio
Where have gone all the stainless steel frames for 8 x 10 ?
When using the paper safe, do you see an edge effect of greater density due to the greater developer movement on the edges of the film?
how many milliliters for 8x10 film developing
thank u
I think the Jobo with red cap is for paper, not film. However, I have used it for film too.
It is for paper, but works great for 8”x10” film.
Are these for Film maybe 4x5 Sheets
Need jobo 3010 drum for developer?
Hi Craig been watching your videos-regarding the JOBO Multitank 6 2563, I don't need to use any form of reels to develop 8x10 sheet film correct? This is by virtue of the fact that there are ridges on the lining of the drum to hold arced sheets in place. Did I get that right? I find that the 2563 is a cheaper alternative to the 3005, especially that I don't think I will be developing that much 8x10 negatives all the time. Hope to hear from you.
@craig sheaks
I apologize ahead of time for this question since I'm new to large format and developing. I have sourced a Cibachrome and Unicolor base. Do I need just one Cibachrome or do I need three for all the development phases? Or do you run the developer, than take the lid off and pour out the developer and add stop bath and then remove that and add the fixer? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks...
One other question, the one that I sourced has the top with the cup that you described. Then it has a "light baffle" and that goes into a "bottom outlet cup" The bottom cup looks as if it has holes in it. Does the light baffle cover the holes so the chemistry doesn't come out while on the motorized base? Thanks!
+Spencer Pullen First thing you should do is take the cup off and pour water into it until it is almost to the top. Then pour the water into a graduated cylinder. Whatever volume it reads is the amount you should use for all the chemicals.
The way they are designed is to put the film/paper (emulsion facing toward the inside of the drum) into the drum in the dark and then put the lid with the cup in place on. Once that is done you can turn the lights on and work in room light. Stand the drum up and pour the first chemical in (prewash first if you prefer). It will pour into the cup and not enter the drum until you tip it to the horizontal position. Set it horizontally on the motor base and then start. The holes on the bottom of the drum are to allow the chemical to pour out once tipped vertical again. Then pour in second chemical, repeat procedure, then next chemical, etc... After the fixer (if doing B&W) I remove the lid and then fix it in a tray for another 2 minutes just to make sure.
When you tip the drum horizontally a bit might come out from the bottom, it's not a problem as it is just a small amount, but thought you should know. I would practice once without film in the drum and just use water so you get a feel for how it works.
+Spencer Pullen One drum is all you need. And whatever you do DO NOT remove the lid once the film is inside until after the fixer. The chemicals are poured into the top and enter the cup, then once horizontal they enter the drum, then when vertical again they come out of the bottom.
I appreciate you explaining this. Now it makes sense. Thanks!
My boss has lent me a Jobo 3010 drum, but I don't have the motor base. Do you think it would be worth trying just rolling it back and forth on a flat surface? I know I could just try it but I hate to waste time and film if it's a goofy idea.
+Mike Thomas I built a base out of caster wheels and a board that you can pick up at a hardware store. I just manually rotate it for the bigger drums that won't fit on the motor base. I have rolled the drum on a flat surface before and it works fine. Just make sure it is level and that you rotate the drum at least 380 degrees alternating direction.
+Mike Thomas getting the lid off of an Expert drum can be difficult if you don't have the Jobo pump to remove the lid. I did finally get a pump, but prior to that, as strange as it sounds, I would just place my mouth on the opening and blow air into the drum. The lid would pop right off. Be careful of your teeth though. I know it sounds strange, but it works and I did it for many years that way with no problem.
+Craig Sheaks Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'll give it a shot!
+Craig Sheaks Fortunately, he brought the foot pump along with the drum. Thanks again for the replies.
+Mike Thomas How did the Jobo work out for you?
would this work for developing paper?
Will your 3010 Expert drum fit on your unicolor motorized base?
+Jon Ball Unfortunately, it will not. I built a manual one from a board and casters. I have to hand turn it, but it works fine.
I am getting the multitank 6 next week specifically for 8x10 developing - how much solution do you need for rotary processing?
In the multitank 6 #2563 I have used as little as 500ml, but I recommend 750ml-1000ml to develop 2-8x10 negs.
Thank you!
I can't find photographic paper safe on ebay or Amazon. Is there another term?
+Bill Neill I did a search on eBay for "Darkroom Paper Safe" and several showed up.
i must have just used paper safe
thanks
Have you ever noticed any uneven development with your film in these tubes, or need to fix/dev in a tank afterwards to help remove the anti-halation layer? I was reading up on anecdotal reviews in ---- and found this advice from Jobo USA from 1998 on why to use the Expert drums instead of the Print drums (get liquid behind the film and smooth side with no ribs that could scratch the film) -- though you seem to actually find micro-scratches on the back of your film from the Expert drum.
uneven results: www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/jobo-8x10-expert-drum-vs-jobo-2850-for-8x10-negatives.50963/
advice from Jobo:
groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!msg/rec.photo.darkroom/aJU-ZmZ5Kt4/ttPcTa20kkwJ
www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?11719-Both-film-and-paper-in-a-Jobo-2850
Also, CatLABS got the CL81 reel (www.catlabs.info/CL81 ) for 3 sheets of 8x10 created on kickstarter for use in the Multitank 5 drum: www.catlabs.info/product/jobo-2550-multitank-5
I presume it would work in the Multitank 6 too?
+bwvids The tubes are extremely reliable and development is always even. I fix for the full time in the tube, but do put the sheets in a fixer tray afterward for about two minutes. I really don't think it is necessary, but would rather be on the safe side. I would really like the Jobo expert drum to not have the micro scratches. Honestly they might not even show in the prints, but I don't want to risk it. I should probably sell it, since they are going for such high prices. Though I am afraid I might regret it. I was lucky enough to get it for a great price. Basically it was with a large quantity of Jobo tanks I purchased for a very good price. I am familiar with the CatLABS CL81 (never used it), but it looks awkward to load. I am glad that people are still making large format equipment though.