Seeing all the main caps on the bench made me laugh after the 'just gotta make it through' comments, but on reflection this is really what the budget conscious (& responsible) owner would do - stitch in time and that..
After 50plus years of building engines, To satisfy my own curiosity while assembling a 390 last week I compared measured bearing clearance to Plastigage. If properly done you will be surprised at the results, I was. You should do a video on that Brett.
Well, any inframe repair or large engine installation plastigauge is the only check. If it's good enough for an OEM factory repair on a multi-million dollar installation, it's good enough for a automobile junkyard engine. Most errors occur when oil gets on the wrong side of the bearing or bearing saddle, the wrong size gauge is used and parts are not wiped clean and dry. Oil is really good at creating dynamic wedges, even where the cap meets the block, all that stacks up tolerance. We were o/h'ing a 4000HP prime power unit in the winter and the oil was thick and dripped off the crank onto into the serrations of the rod, into the threads for the cap screws. We could torque the rod bolts (4 of them) rotate the engine to the next pair and find the first pair unscrewed by hand....when the dynamic wedge finally depressuirzed. Not fun on a 20 cylinder engine in 30F temps 😂
Watching the JJ Jr. evolution is great - gives everyone a chance to choose their own adventure on the price / performance curve for their next 5.o with some extra knowledge 👍
Gooooo Junior!!!!! I LOVE junk. For someone in their 60s, a motor that lasts 25K at 1000 miles per year is practically a lifetime guarantee. A 400 dollar low mile 302 from P&P is golden.
Wow! You’ve really have run off the junk yard economy engine build pretty quickly! I would think windage tray , oil level testing would be the next logical step before jumping to a dry sump and custom oil pan, may appeal to more on a budget.
I've seen bearing wear like that a few times on factory production assembled engines. Sometimes things get left in oiling passages, sometimes they flake off once in service and end up going thru a bearing. Not to mention 100k miles of quickie lube oil changes.. haha
I still have, in my tool box for old time sake, Plastigage from my first 302 engine build back in 1975. The build cost a hair over $500 for parts and machine work. Holley 600 and a Street Dominator intake. Ran strong until one of the cheap Ohio cast pistons split at the pin bore. Crunch, boom, sad.
Old bloke told me once if you dont won't to measure F off and get another job I've worked by that rule for my whole life best thing I ever learnt especially when it comes to machine shops and parts painted in gold 😊
Nice up date. I just had a thought after you do each change or modification you could offer to sale the parts you don't want to keep or would not normally use in one of you builds. It would help with the budget on JJ jr.😁👍
Great stuff Brett. Most of us can't afford dry sump and don't get me wrong, I love your wisdom and videos that you share, but was hoping/possibly if dry sump oiling could be last change/modification. Anyways love your CONTENT and of course YOUR EXPERTISE, CHEERS!!!!!
A professional engine builder who can admit plastigage has its place in engine building. Yes, measuring is far more accurate but many of those on an extremely tight budget have successfully used plastigage.
i just cracked open a 427 Chevy yesterday out of a Corvette 2 and 4 mains had trauma 2 had a big piece of dirt embed into the bearing and 4 had damaged bearing swapping metal but cranked looked ok on both journals meanwhile helicoil one of the head bolts holes, had knurled forged pop up pistons that i have not seen since the late eighties the Camshaft was a solid Crane with a 1994 date on it, that had no damage, if the original heads and block for the car maybe worth repair but pricey move for the client but the original builderof the engine what a clown
You take that filter media push it back into shape then wrap it in a towel or cloth then put into the vise and squeeze out all the oil then open it up walk out into the sun and enjoy the glitter or lack of glitter
Plastigage gives a plastigage result, which is better than no measurement. In my 302 project I tore down, the #5 main bottom shell was the only one showing copper, a bit less copper than yours and no scratches. I measured all of them with plastigage and they were all slightly under and slightly over .0015, even though #5 had far more wear. I have no clue why....But it happened with yours too.
Those are some tough engins. Seeing the cross hatching reminded me if a nitrous motor i tore down years ago and the block looked brand new even with a lot if hard miles on it. ut.
It’s a little hard to tell from video, but I think it’s viscosity breakdown. Just not enough film strength by the time the oil has made its way back there, especially at high temps and high load.
Next point, used parts. A uncle who I considered a master engine builder had boxes full of good used Olds and Chevy internal engine parts. Many were scavenged from near new dealership discarded warranty engines. I witnessed many circle track and street engines built using these parts that ran very well and did not fail.
Love your videos Brent! I watch all regardless of the engine but i typically love your FE builds. Just curious, do you know who David Vizard is and if so what do you think of his cam skecruon theory?
On my 86 Capri 5.0 HO I had a problem with comp cams roller tipped rockers fell over at low rpm. Remove valve cover and could pop them back. After removing shortblock I discovered the cam bearings were flaking at 100k miles and they probably got caught in the lifter area and caused momentary clearance at the rocker allowing it to roll over. I had run aprox. 50k with 351w heads and Ford motorsport cam.
Knowing that the “maximum effort” goal is set high enough for JJJr. to actually benefit from shaft rockers and a dry sump system is even more reason for me to continue watching. 🏁
Кино
Yup, I didn't think you could let it go. I wouldn't have been able to either. I would call it a good save.
Seeing all the main caps on the bench made me laugh after the 'just gotta make it through' comments, but on reflection this is really what the budget conscious (& responsible) owner would do - stitch in time and that..
After 50plus years of building engines, To satisfy my own curiosity while assembling a 390 last week I compared measured bearing clearance to Plastigage. If properly done you will be surprised at the results, I was. You should do a video on that Brett.
Well, any inframe repair or large engine installation plastigauge is the only check. If it's good enough for an OEM factory repair on a multi-million dollar installation, it's good enough for a automobile junkyard engine. Most errors occur when oil gets on the wrong side of the bearing or bearing saddle, the wrong size gauge is used and parts are not wiped clean and dry. Oil is really good at creating dynamic wedges, even where the cap meets the block, all that stacks up tolerance. We were o/h'ing a 4000HP prime power unit in the winter and the oil was thick and dripped off the crank onto into the serrations of the rod, into the threads for the cap screws. We could torque the rod bolts (4 of them) rotate the engine to the next pair and find the first pair unscrewed by hand....when the dynamic wedge finally depressuirzed. Not fun on a 20 cylinder engine in 30F temps 😂
Watching the JJ Jr. evolution is great - gives everyone a chance to choose their own adventure on the price / performance curve for their next 5.o with some extra knowledge 👍
Gooooo Junior!!!!! I LOVE junk. For someone in their 60s, a motor that lasts 25K at 1000 miles per year is practically a lifetime guarantee. A 400 dollar low mile 302 from P&P is golden.
Wow! You’ve really have run off the junk yard economy engine build pretty quickly! I would think windage tray , oil level testing would be the next logical step before jumping to a dry sump and custom oil pan, may appeal to more on a budget.
Did oil level testing already (last video) and windage trays are worthless per my 20 years of dynoing.
@@lykinsmotorsports surprised to hear about windage trays🤔 but experience is experience so no questioning that, but very surprised to hear it🤯
You used weed eater twine 😮
Just poking fun at you Brent, heard you call it that before.
I've seen bearing wear like that a few times on factory production assembled engines.
Sometimes things get left in oiling passages, sometimes they flake off once in service and end up going thru a bearing.
Not to mention 100k miles of quickie lube oil changes.. haha
Especially the quickie lube oil changes.
I still have, in my tool box for old time sake, Plastigage from my first 302 engine build back in 1975. The build cost a hair over $500 for parts and machine work. Holley 600 and a Street Dominator intake. Ran strong until one of the cheap Ohio cast pistons split at the pin bore. Crunch, boom, sad.
Built Ford tough! 🇺🇸💪🏼 it will be 100% fine!
Old bloke told me once if you dont won't to measure F off and get another job I've worked by that rule for my whole life best thing I ever learnt especially when it comes to machine shops and parts painted in gold 😊
Sorry to hear, 302 is my favorite engine, atleast it's Ata a good place
Thanks for the video, and this build series.
Maybe just really good oil cleaning gunk out of the engine. Looking forward to the next video.
Nice up date. I just had a thought after you do each change or modification you could offer to sale the parts you don't want to keep or would not normally use in one of you builds. It would help with the budget on JJ jr.😁👍
Great stuff Brett. Most of us can't afford dry sump and don't get me wrong, I love your wisdom and videos that you share, but was hoping/possibly if dry sump oiling could be last change/modification. Anyways love your CONTENT and of course YOUR EXPERTISE, CHEERS!!!!!
A professional engine builder who can admit plastigage has its place in engine building. Yes, measuring is far more accurate but many of those on an extremely tight budget have successfully used plastigage.
i just cracked open a 427 Chevy yesterday out of a Corvette 2 and 4 mains had trauma 2 had a big piece of dirt embed into the bearing and 4 had damaged bearing swapping metal but cranked looked ok on both journals meanwhile helicoil one of the head bolts holes, had knurled forged pop up pistons that i have not seen since the late eighties the Camshaft was a solid Crane with a 1994 date on it, that had no damage, if the original heads and block for the car maybe worth repair but pricey move for the client but the original builderof the engine what a clown
You take that filter media push it back into shape then wrap it in a towel or cloth then put into the vise and squeeze out all the oil then open it up walk out into the sun and enjoy the glitter or lack of glitter
I enjoy your videos, you have excellent knowledge and are not afraid to show it. Thanks!
Plastigage gives a plastigage result, which is better than no measurement. In my 302 project I tore down, the #5 main bottom shell was the only one showing copper, a bit less copper than yours and no scratches. I measured all of them with plastigage and they were all slightly under and slightly over .0015, even though #5 had far more wear. I have no clue why....But it happened with yours too.
Those are some tough engins. Seeing the cross hatching reminded me if a nitrous motor i tore down years ago and the block looked brand new even with a lot if hard miles on it. ut.
It’s a little hard to tell from video, but I think it’s viscosity breakdown. Just not enough film strength by the time the oil has made its way back there, especially at high temps and high load.
Run it. It'll live.
Next point, used parts. A uncle who I considered a master engine builder had boxes full of good used Olds and Chevy internal engine parts. Many were scavenged from near new dealership discarded warranty engines. I witnessed many circle track and street engines built using these parts that ran very well and did not fail.
Love your videos Brent! I watch all regardless of the engine but i typically love your FE builds. Just curious, do you know who David Vizard is and if so what do you think of his cam skecruon theory?
I had an earlier 5.0ho that did have material from a cam bearing down in the oil passage from the main. It ruined the cam.
On my 86 Capri 5.0 HO I had a problem with comp cams roller tipped rockers fell over at low rpm. Remove valve cover and could pop them back. After removing shortblock I discovered the cam bearings were flaking at 100k miles and they probably got caught in the lifter area and caused momentary clearance at the rocker allowing it to roll over. I had run aprox. 50k with 351w heads and Ford motorsport cam.
check crank at 90 degrees
Norhing 'hack' about using plastigage in that scenario, a hack woukd just throw in std bearings and have no clue of clearance.
What's the concern with pedestal mounted roller rocker arms?
Stability and accuracy
This guy is a professional" engine builde"
Yes he is.
some 20w-50 in there and send it.
Apologize Brent for refereeing to you as Brett in previous comment.
I've been called worse.
I quit watching at shaft mounted rockers and dry slump on a production block and heads
Then you need to go back to the first video and look at the scope of the project. If you quit watching though, I’m sure I’ll recover from it.
I will
@@marcusmerck5191
You must be incapable of grasping what he does and how he does it from start to finish.
Knowing that the “maximum effort” goal is set high enough for JJJr. to actually benefit from shaft rockers and a dry sump system is even more reason for me to continue watching. 🏁
Bye.