Having to RIP OUT our own WORK...
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Yes guys, this is correct, we have had to rip out our own work, but maybe it isn't as bad as it sounds, keep watching to find out why...
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Concreting clearly not your thing, the brushing was comical 😂
Don't attach the fence to the post as the fence will pull on the post as it expands and contracts.
The hinges won't last, they are not man enough.
Sorry for the negative
I put a 14ft iroko gate meeting with a 4ft once, installed them on 8x8 oak 4 ft in the ground, 6 years on and they haven't needed adjusting, bloody amazing, i didn't think they wouldn't drop.
Big gates, oak posts are the key.
Yes your right
I would definitely have made two new gates of equal length, not only would it look better with even size gates but would have been less strain on posts and hinges.. those T hinges are nowhere near strong enough for that gate.. just my tuppence worth.
The wide gate will drop and even if you fit a wheel to help it that won't prevent it from dropping. If you're going to make a gate that wide then the braces are critical. A brace should be housed into the top and middle rails but also only needs to extend no further than the mid point of the width of the gate, the rest of the gate that extends past the brace is supported by the brace. Just my opinion as a Joiner of some 35yrts+ I can see issues with that gate.
Hinges are way too small.
I’m joiner aswell mate agree with everything you said 👍
Braces should be no lower in angle than 45 degrees
I know my 5 bar farm gates drop due to weight and settlement, I would put a wheel on the new big gate to support it and so you don’t need to come back and adjust.
Another great video Steve👍
@UnjustifiedRecs Given that most wheels are sprung loaded for uneven ground how would that stop the gate from dropping?. If they fit an unsprung wheel then the ground needs to be perfectly level which I doubt it would be. Same with adjustbale hinges, they don't prevent a gate from dropping, just allow you to adjust the gap/joint.
@UnjustifiedRecs Feel free to post some photo's .
Yea a spring loaded wheel would be a good Idea.
@@AdrianSams "adjustbale", that's a new word!😀
@@CB-xr1eg Yep, made that one up just for you. 😄
Great jobs again, but i would go back and put a wheel on that massive gate for support. In time that gate will come away from that big wooden post, the hinges don't seem heavy duty enough to support the gate long term but you may get away with it if the wheel was fitted 👍
They definitely have the capacity to have a sliding gate in there.
That would have been my recommendation to them personally as its space saving and can be motorised in future if they choose to.
yeah i thought this as well
what i thought too. Motorized with remote.
Nice idea!
yes that gate/s swing taking up space can not used if the gate are in use?
The black stuff you dug out i think is from someone's coal fire years ago maybe, could be a mix of silica and coal ash.
Basically black glass.
No brace should be greater than 45° the strength is in the brace which should be let in to the ledges creating a litteral wedge.
Oh Stevie, I do hope we are not going to see you back there, in the future, sorting out a dropped gate.🙏🏻 I feel that it needs metal frame support, and maybe a wheel if the path levels work for that. I really really hope that I am wrong.
Yep those small hinges won't hold.
You’re right, it will drop in time
Agree. Or maybe a 3 panel sliding gate instead of a swing gate.
Guess they don't use Mortice and tenons these days? ....imho Gate way too wide for the height in those silly T hinges as well .. the gate was sagging and will continue to sag of that distance .
should be using Cup Garage Gate hinges on a Gate that size at the least ... might even need a turnbuckle kit
Construction of gate will also play a massive part in how a Gate holds it's shape ..Proper mortice and tenon.
The diagonals would be tenoned into the middle rail and the Boarding would be recessed into a rebate into the frame .... this all helps with sag.....you can't completely eradicate it .... but everything you do in good construction Helps ....also...when you are installing the top and middle Hinges , snug it over a little towards the Post .. this will lift the front leading edge up slightly next to the other gate....when you remove the support at the bottom of the stile when all hinges are secured , gate will drop a fraction and match other gate..
........this gate is going to keep sagging ....from what i observed.
But what do i know.
A plus on the gate. Your concrete skills are lacking. Advice for the future... Your pad is too thin (10cm for load, 7cm for walk). Too much slump, use less water next time. Your crawl work with the skreed was acceptable but too soon on the float but again acceptable.
Lesson to make it better in the future? Don't float until you can touch it with your fingers, press and it dents but doesn't move. Time will depend on your slump to start with and your temperatures. It is ready when it's ready. If you follow that whenever you broom, you make sure that you have a wet broom, bump off any excess water, drag (on a job this size you should be able to do two pulls before you have to clean), then clean your broom and repeat. If you try to drag and you're pulling your butter, you are rushing.
When you float you are pushing the aggregate down bringing the sand to the top and that is called butter. If you try to float too soon you end up knocking all the aggregate down and your sand layer is too thick which makes the top prone to chiping and spaulling. All the strength in your concrete comes from the aggregate in suspension. You want your butter on top just thick enough to level it out, hide any aggregate and give you something to work with. We are talking about 1/4 in max. It also looks like you worked it too much. You have to do concrete in steps and give it time to do what it does during each step.
I am not knocking you. I'm giving you advice for the future. You will only learn to experience and you only get experience from doing. You knew something wasn't right I could see it 🤣. Also if you are doing concrete when it's cold you can add potassium chloride (heat) to your mix to help it set up in a timely manner.
The more you do it the more you work with somebody in the trade and the more experience you have with it the easier it will come and the better your products will be. If I had to give a timeline on what you did... I would say 5 to 7 years with the first damage (edges and chips) within the next 5 months. Don't feel bad. I started out with solo sidewalks working with my family and I replaced a few of my first ones 🤣. I hope you mention to the client, not to drive on it for one week.
Personally I think that bitumen would have been a better option all the way around.
You maybe going back with that gate but that’s how we all learn 😂 also stevie we see you drop some more gravel and blocks in the hole so you don’t have to use anymore concrete 😂😂😂 and next time you do concreting lift the mesh up into the concrete 😊😊😊 P.S Dave when reading this no removing us 😂😂😂😂
definitely would of put a bi fold gate in were it folds onto it self instead of the 3m but another great vid lads and lasses at d&j❤❤
Bi fold are very flimsy imo
Can't believe u haven't put a wheel on that gate u must know it needs 1.
@@jjfm271 I think they will once concrete goes off
Bifold gate to heavy for pensioners
I once got asked if I could fit "a set of those bisexual doors" 😂😂
Great job but as a joiner looking at both the first gates that were fitted and the new larger gate it’s a real shame that the diagonal bracing was done wrong.
Installing a brace into the corners of the bottom rail and style and top rail and opposite style can, over time, push the joints apart.The brace should not touch the styles but be fitted into just the bottom and top rails.
Also the angle of the brace is important. Especially on the new bug gate, it’s too shallow an angle, it’s not transferring the weight properly. It’s all relying on those tiny hinges.
The brace doesn’t have to go corner to corner. It also looks better and importantly is more affective at transferring to loadings if the angle is no more than 45degrees, so as you make the gate wider because the brace the still inserts into the top rail and doesn’t need to lay down more and increase in its length to reach the corner, it still supports the gate. Making the brace rail longer does nothing.
Think of holding a bucket of water in your hand with arm stretched out, you can hold more if you bend the elbow and hold it at no more than 45 degrees.
And please fit a wheel on the big gate.
Definitely needs a wheel. Those hinges look way to light as well, and the concrete job was a bit sketchy.
One of those jobs they could make a lot better for a little more investment and knowledge. Hope they learn and improve.
Been a carpenter for years and didn’t realise that?👍👍
@@SylvanApe Your a bit harsh what job did you do least the other guy was a chippy
@@paulwood7931 Ran a successful landscaping business for 12 years. Built a gate like this once, early on in my career. Drove past it a few weeks later, next day went and fitted a wheel. Lesson learned.
All these clerk of works comments 😅
Those hinges look suspect, probably a failure point in the future. Needed heavy duty farm gate hinges if you ask me.
Definitely 👍
Yes absolutly@@bally1213
Or maybe a castor to take some of the weight. 👍
Few little tips….
That big gate will sag. Hinges should of been band & gudgeons with wheel underneath to support. Hinges have to cover at least 1/3 of a gate.
Could of also added a true latch telescopic gate brace to add extra tension support.
Instead of putting numerous screw holes into a new timber post adjusting gates why not just get yourself some adjustable air wedge bags. Get that gate in position so your screw holes are right first time.
When digging fence post holes instead of leaving all your rubble on the ground in a pile and then shovelling it up put it straight into gorilla buckets. Manage the load.
👍🏻
Tip for you - use a couple of shovels lying on the ground just under bottom of gate, then you can simply use you foot on the shaft to press down and get the gate height bang on!
comes down to a lack of experience
Nowt wrong with that, That is just life - learn along the way. I still am 😀@@TOPtee34
@@TOPtee34 or just happy with how we do it? Lol, cheers anyway Stephen 👊🏻👍🏻
That’s how we used to do it same with gravel boards n panels !.
you never heard of air bags?
Great job guys.. I do think you will have problems with that big gate. We use steel frames on anything over a 5’ leaf. I would have at least split the difference with the gates. Hopefully there won’t be a callback for a sagging gate
Those hinges aren’t suitable for the size of that gate
You want to use adjustable hooks on bands for gates that size with a 8x8 post dug into the ground
The post was moving like crazy when you were hanging it
As soon as it starts raining the gate will absorb water and then that post will pop out
Also just a tip when building your gates you would be better off using stainless steel nails as your galvanised nails are reacting with the treatment in the pressure treated timber creating those black drip marks
Good to see your hard work ethic just a shame about those bits
Fair Play Stevie, you always do a 100% job. No matter how big or too small, the job & the Customer gets 100% D&J Quality Customer Service & Satisfaction ❤
Hi stevie and Scott great gate but I would of done 2 new ones so they met in centre also is the customer changing the feather edge gate to match the tounge and groove gate also the little gate and panel looks great stay safe all and keep smashing these videos out
Great vid as always Stevie, just a quick FYI for when you are fitting gates in future, you can get a tool for supporting the weight of the door or gate. I know Screwfix do them they’re not expensive, I’ve used them in the past makes it way easier to hang most doors and gates. Check it out, cheers bud. 👍
Is that tool called a bit of wood? Used them many times, come in well handy.
Those hinges will not support that , should be one third the width and heavy duty galvanised furniture not that painted crap. Should be totally redesigned but may work with a wheel ?
Gate turned out well, you can always stick a wheel on it in future if it sags a little. I would have fabricated a 40x40 SHS metal frame for the 3M gate section - anything over 2M wide, I fabricate metal frames for the gates and use 100 x 100 steel posts. Turned out well though !
Putting a wheel on it once it has dropped is too late, the wheel is to stop it dropping
Molten Glass of Slag from iron works.
Great video, for me I always try to do my gates 50/50 cosmetically looks better, the t hinges are definitely not strong enough for a 3m gate I would have used much stronger hinge type, but that's my preference
Keep up the great content lads ❤
That black shiny stone looks like the slag off some sort of smelting process there is loads near me
Always appreciate seeing string lines, levels and having an explanation on how jobs are done so a big thanks to Stevie as he always makes sure to show us. Excellent couple of instals 👍
Diagonal braces should never be over 45 degrees.
Nottingham Council have just declared bankruptcy, hope youve got nothing owed off them for outstanding jobs or supplies for them
Stevie, the wire mesh police 👮 will be after you now mate 😅 I think you should have put some hard core under the concrete and used the wacker plate.
...century-old glass slag from glass production, seriously thermally-altered from the pouring process - cool!
All I would say for gates that size it would have been better to use strap hinges instead of T hinges 👍
yes tiny hinges used...not for me
will be problems with these hinges as time pass on, too light weight for size of gate.
Totally agree, these are light weight shed hinges . Need much stronger metal strap hinges and a wheel on the bottom corner for a gate that size .
Just my opinion take it with a pinch of salt
Not too shabby! I suggest next time use a Bull Float to level the top cream and clean the broom after every stroke to minimize "pebbles" from forming. Cheers!
That gate will drop and you have no adjustment. I would have used adjustable hook and band hindges. These are heavier duty plus you can easily adjust them to raise or lower the gate.
I think you need a bit of expertise from Odell Complete Concrete but nice job all round guys!
Very neat and tidy work, do think you might leave yourself open to problems with the big gate having only used 'T' hinges would of used band type hinges that were adjustable would of gone equal size gates , i use wedges when hanging gates to line them alot easier especally on pairs.
Definitely agree about the equal sized gates but I guess that was the customer's choice.
It's a shame about the gates but when you have a big vehicle it is nice to have that little bit more room for manoeuvring. Personally I'd have 2 equal size gates! The big gate doesn't look too bad but I think it could cause problems in the long run and aesthetically I'd definitely prefer 2 the same size. Concrete looks great although I do agree could've been a little drier first lol. You're customers are always amazing 👍🏼.
I would have gone with gate size as chosen as the smaller gate is good for everyday use and the larger gate is only going to be used for the van. Wondered if you ever use a pin hinge for heavier gates or if these are not as effective?? Superb job especially in those cold conditions😊
He should have used hook and band type hinge on those gates. T-hinges not the right choice IMO.
Cracking job. You guys always go above and beyond.
Love this site. Couple of things. We have a tool I call a spud bar. It is a steel bar about six feet long. It has a digging/prying blade on one end and a tamping knob on the other end. The blade end is 3.5 inches to 4 inches wide. Awesome tool for doing what you guys do every day. Do you ever find the treated posts over time succumb to rot? I have found that to be the case, I wrap masking tape around the post to the level of depth to ensure a crisp line. I then use a small trowel or putty knife to put a coat of plastic roof cement on the bare wood end before planting the post. No rot will occur. I leave about an inch above grade. Remove the tape and it looks sharp.
Good tip 👊
I would make the big gate a bifold gate and then just use the smaller one for everyday use.😊
ahh yes, so it can flop around i the wind
to the point where you are now on the massive gate, i would probably just take off the smaller gate and start over from scratch unfortunately.
i honestly think that looks bloody stupid but the customer is nearly always right i can see you being called back to sort the gate out again if i was you lads i would put a wheel on the gate as at that length t will need support
Been watching now for a while , You are great so much pride in your work
But when kneeling down take it from me wear knee pads , Started work at 16 , Now 58 and can hardle walk
Great job
One of my neighbours made gates for a wide opening, and opted for four bi-fold sections rather than two longer gates. He would have fitted wheels too, but the ground was rather uneven, so he went with heavy-duty posts and hinges.
I use wooden wedges for doing my ground clearance.put them on top of each other as if to make a block and the more you pull apart the less the clearance or slide them further on top of each other to make the clearance more
Big gate needs a wheel to hold the weight 100%. Might be ok for now but it will drop more over time, they always do.
it seemed liked they already had to add the sagging into matters, i think a wheel support would only benefit them gates.. they are massive
Those hinges are no way man enough
The braces on the gates offer no support. A brace should never be more than 45 degrees off the vertical stiles!
Brilliant “small” job - I bet the customer is delighted with that!
I’m no expert on hinges but there are a lot of people stating those hinges are wrong? Perhaps you’ll be back to fix that later but the work you have done as always is excellent. What I would like to mention is the concrete work; I also watch a RUclips concrete guy in Wisconsin, USA and see him always lift the metal mesh when putting concrete down. This ensures the mesh is in the mix and not sat on the ground rusting away.
Def going to need a wheel good job you put that concrete down.
I’ve been self employed for 25 years and never been fed like you I feel lucky if I get a stale biscuit to dip in my week coffee. 😢
I feel your pain bro long day with tight costumer 😂😂😂
Cracking job there Stevie, going the extra mile to keep customers happy
Scott doesnt usually do solids….Thats why he went in on the bacon cob! 😂🤣💀
The 3m side I would have hinged it in the middle so it had 2 1.5m panels that could be folded back so the had the option of how big a gap they needed. Just a thought xx
Woulda divided space into 4 and fitted 2x bifolds exact same structures from the inside, on casters for support with crossbar stays for the wind rattle and shoot bolts into concrete as insurance ,defo would reduced kerb sticking up as well ,but if the customer is happy,happy days !👍
Well done that customer keeping them fed, really nice looking food. Nice works on the fences and gates also.
wants some stronger hinges hook and band would have been better for that type of install just my opinion could have tamped the concrete as like the old stuff and followed the same direction to me it looks odd having what appears to be 3 diffrent types of finish on that small area but is a good job
Good gob lads! Only thing I'd add is a wheel on that big gate, just to stop them hinges having a hard time - guarantees a level gate every time as they're adjustable
That shiny black rock looks like pitch (a sort of tar & bichamine) they used it to soak telegraph poles in the stuff. We were digging it up for years after we moved in and started digging the ground, as the houses on our street was built on the site of an old timber yard. It would be worth getting the customer to do a check on the land, so it is then the ground is classed as contaminated land. Great job guys.
narrow gate left, wide gate right, so they only have to open one to drive in with a small car.
Another great job done but I think you should have cut down the kerb at the side of the path just to let the rain water flow off and I would put a wheel on the end of the gate to stop it dropping keep up the good work looking forward to the next one.
I don't think screws will hold that gate...Maybe hook and band hinges or similar would have been better
That brush action excited me on too many levels 😂 , Great Great Work 💯
Big dang gate. If I was the customer, I'd have split the difference myself. Good looking gate though. Good vid. Thanks.
Don’t know if it’s been mentioned but a wheel on the gate will help 😂 fml the amount of times I’ve read that in the comments is hilarious 😂 cracking job as always gents 🤘🏻
Great job Stevie and Scott, me personally would do 2 slight changes, 1 put a wheel on the larger gate, 2 flat trowelled the joining edge of the new concrete, that's only because that's how I was taught, but I'm not taking anything away from you both
Needed heavy duty hinges for the weight of that gate guys
Definitely need heavy duty hinges and wheel speaking fro experience. I would have used 6x6 posts as well
Leave the right gate leaf as-is. Make the left leaf wide enough to span the new gap. Put a hinge in the left leaf where the old post used to be, with another hinge at the post. Put a rod at the middle hinge point and on both leaves at the original point, as before. You could put a wheel at the left leaf hinge point. That way the gate can be opened to the standard width, or to the extra wide width. How cool would that be?
Those T hinges are not sufficient for weight of those gate doors …. They are more suited to lightweight work , shed door , storage bin etc but they rust and diminish and then will definitely snap with that weight …. Heavy duty Crank hooked and band hinges would do the trick … 👍
Field gate hinges would have been better pal,,Pins on them T hinges will drop after a while with the weight
Great job. I would have considered a bi fold gate on the left with a wheel at the fold so it breaks the gap into three and supports the weight. I know …. we are experts in the comments…. (we are not really) but just how I would have considered tackling the issue. I do have to say that it looks a beautiful gate, it works for the customer and you lads worked hard on this one. Great job and tidy as always throughout. Well done. 👍 Dave Birmingham
It,s used as ballast stone in the bottom of ships that existed in the past!
Am i right in thinking gate bracing should be 45 degrees or less otherwise the bracing doesn’t do its job properly? So the first gates, the bracing is well iver 45 degrees
I'd put a wheel on that gate 😮
Are those hinges man enough for that size e of gate I would have expected much greater Heavy Duty type?
Gday Steve, and the guys and gals at D&J Projects go above and beyond in keeping you customers happy😁😁🙏😚 And that cable was bad install would not done it like that. should been a conduit pipe underneath the path.
I would go 50/50 on the gate otherwise my OCD would be doing overtime
That was a beautiful RV. Nice that the customers have a safe space to park it. Stevie and Scott, you two did a beautiful job on the gates and concrete. Like the explanations of the work. I like learning about the different ways of doing things. The rock you all found looks like silica to me. I may be wrong though. Thanks for another great video.
The bits of "rock" you dug up look like steel works slag or power station waste. People did use ashes from power station to bed flags on .
Brilliant video as always I would have made the gates even width I think you will be back there gate looks to heavy ❤
did a fencing job this Sunday just gone didn't even get offered a cuppa was fuming lol very nice customers looking after hard working lads looks good guys keep up the good work and videos
Looks good but they be back, that gate will drop, will need to put a wheel on
11:39 I'd use the old gate and hingefold so it only gets opened to full width when needed.
Nice video stevie ,and a great job done stevie and scott on the big gate project, looking smart,and the concreting finishes the yard of to a tidy completion. Have a great week all of you.
Another top job Stevie & Scott, but like you said I would deffo put a spring leaded castor/wheel on it About £16-£20 off Ebay.
Needs hook and band hinges - T hinges too light duty for a gate that wide
Without doubt that gate is going to sag, I would have still put a wheel under that gate.
I like your attention to quality…posts down to depth and not done shallow ..my man cut off 18” instead of digging further..and you dont rush off until you’ve finished…i do like to see 2 bags of postcrete go in though…
EASY MONEY.
WELL DONE THE TWO OF YOUS.
Brilliant job, lovely to see how its done. I love watching these type of 'tutorials'. Massive gate, lovely motorhome. Best wishes Christine x
Must be able to get another shed on that property
I would defo put a wheel on it, there's going to be a lot of strain on those hinges stevie.
I would say you found coal love your videos BIG UP D & J PROJECTS ❤
I thought the same coal, wonder if , as we used to say in Nottingham, was there a "coal house " there in years gone by ?
I would not use those steel thin t-hinges. They will not last and, if the wind ever catches those gates and swings them, expect the hinges to be damaged.
Sorry but the brace in that new gate is useless. Should have fixed the brace from the bottom hinge side up at a 45 degree angle and a second brace from the top of the latch stile down at 45 degrees.
Smart job with the concreting. Skills are piling up Stevie boi, bet the gaffa is proud of ya.
Amazing job! enjoyed this video, defffo subbed and liked! Shout out to your customer as well! Nothing better than foodand brews to help with work. Well done lads