I love how you cross section the valve at the end of the video to prove your instruction throughout the entire video has superb results. I've never done copper soldering before. Looking forward to it now. I'm doing an air compressor plumbing setup with plenty of metal ball valves. This is why I love RUclips. Thank you for the excellent instruction.
Very good video,thank you.Many contractors and plumbers call themselves "professionals" and neglect to debur the pipe as you do in the video.Deburring is extremely important as you state in the video because burs can cause turbulance in the pipe which can and will eventually lead to pin holes in the copper pipe.Again thank you for your video and God bless you and your family.
This video is informative in several ways. I've been doing home-owner plumbing for decades and soldering has become so much more difficult. I remember my dad having a big lead melting-pot and he would just dip pieces in so they would be pre-heated/coated at the joints. Almost like Lego, it was so easy. The combination of practical and scientific info here is just right. And that cross-section view is great ! Helped me change out 8 old failing rubber-seat valves for new ball-valves in my basement without frustration.
Sir, you are an excellent instructor, thank you so much. I learn so much from this video. English is not my native language but a could understand you and follow your instructions. Again, thank you.
heres a cold hard fact Dave.. every guy who calls himself a plumber and makes fun of you on this thread only does it cuz you do nicer work than them at their own full time job. if only everyone cared about the quality of work they do as much as you ...great job thnx for the tips!
dave daved After all of that.... YOU MISSPELLED "THANKS" ! I also noticed that you did NOT wear pants that show your butt-crack. What kind of plumbing professional are you? 😆. Seriously.... Thank you for a great video! 😀 Signed -- An Ancient Sparky.
Dave ... What a great video! I learned how to solder in the Electronics field, and have gained quite a bit of proficiency in that regard. However, when it came to plumbing, I've pretty much been a miserable failure, even though, I finally got all of my solder joints to work they weren't a pretty sight. Many years later, I'm looking at replacing a ball valve (in the vertical position), that I installed a long time ago [20 - 25 years ago]. (It needs to be reinstalled, because it froze in it's open position, and the only way I could get it to move was by tapping on the handle with a hammer. It finally moved and closed when I needed to, but a week or two later it developed a hole in the brass body and begin to spray. All that said, your solder joint in this video is like one of the most nicely done joints I've ever seen demonstrated. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Wow, so much extra work. Very detailed work. If you just sand, flux and heat it all works fine. The contamination come out of the fittings as the flux boils, wipe with a dry rag, and run your solder. Take off aerators for the sinks down line and flush the system of any excess flux or contaminations that made there way into the pipes.
Ok we got it, clean it good. Any one soldering cooper is going to find out, it got to be clean ! Most people now is going to use some quick coupling-even pro plumbers. But very good instructions/training but this is a dying breed !
Good info thanks. Definitely don't want to over heat the connections or use too much solder I can see. Also, I didn't have 40 minutes so I viewed it at 1.5X speed, worked nicely.
That´s WHY it is better to apply the flame to the COPPER TUBE first, and let the much higher heat conduction of the copper carry the heat to the bottom of the socket. By letting part of the flame touch the brass of the valve, the heat starts to go to the rest of the valve, including the seat!
@Dave Daved - Thanks for sharing the Great Video Dave! Very Thorough and well detailed. I was just soldering some 1/2" copper pipe yesterday... I also clean the inside the pipe after using the brush, and I also use the same style debur tool too _(but stand alone, never saw that style on a pipe cutter)_ as I too thought it did a much better job than the reamers on my pipe cutters. *Glad to see someone agrees!!* LoL :-) :ThumbsUp: Sandpaper works great to clean the outside of the pipe, but I found that 00 steel wool works great too. Oh and I cut off my fitting wire brush tool, and use it in my drill, makes it a lot faster when cleaning a fitting :-) lol
Great detail nice video. One improvement would be to test the joint under actual home water pressure. Close the loop of the copper tube at one end, add a joint or valve in the middle and at other end add a thread connector and do a water pressure test. That way you see if the joins leak and then cut it open to show why it worked.
Good analysis of the joint and implications on technique towards the end. To be honest, the narration in the beginning is really slow and repetitive - very difficult to watch - but the last few minutes where you disassemble and section the joint really provide very useful info. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I always wondered how I should have these valves (opened or closed) when soldering. I knew that the older globe valve types were supposed to be soldered while open so you didn't melt the washer, but I was never sure about ball valves (which are much better valves in my opinion).
Pride for your heritage, ball valves were called: "Italian Valves" better know by the place where they were invented! After the chinese copied them now they are ball valves.. Nibco Usa paid licensing fees for a good while and did an decent job until shipping out to China. Be careful on the lead content of the chinese valves. Stick to Made in Italy or second choice, Made in Usa.
Good video. I am glad you mentioned that the heat can damage the seals inside. That is why I always take apart the valve before applying heat. It vary simple and only takes a few seconds to do and well worth the time. I apply wet rag to cool it down (which it can be done shortly after soldering) to cool it down for reassembling the valve and it comes out clean, just like you have demonstrated. Very well detailed video. thanks
It looks like an important consideration is to remove the valve from the assembled plumbing, and solder it in an ideal position as you showed. Soldering in-situ can be difficult, as when in a vertical position, and getting the solder to flow upwards, and not having complete visibility all around the joint. Nice job!
The last 10 minutes or so are what really makes your video worth sitting thru (kind of repetitive dialogue dragging the first half down). Thanks for de-constructing the joint - showing the solder penetration and the vulnerable location of the valve seal; all very educational. Thanks for taking the time and putting so much work into this video.
Thanks for vid and very thorough explanation. I think in a ball joint you need to be very careful to get the brass fitting hot enough to accept the solder, without heat-damaging that plastic seat washer. The proof is in the pudding and you showed us all the solder coverage in your cross sections.
I too thought this was a thorough informative video. I wonder about the comment regarding affecting the gap by heating one side or the other first but presumably one would try to have both sides of the joint at the same or really close to the same temperature. Thank you.
Excellent, thorough job on this video that covered all of the important and relevant details. I'm glad you took your time, I found every second of your presentation worthwhile. Wish some of the incompetent boobs out there that masquerade as "professionals" that think PEX is God's gift had a quarter of your focus, instead of cowering behind a box of Sharkbites and running for the shelter of their ProPress tool. Keep up the good work Dave.
dave daved Have you seen corrosion failures of these valves? We have some Mueller B&W 3/4 inch ball valves (red handle) which were installed around 2005. The problem we have is, they have white corrosion spots on them! It's almost as if they're leaky, but they aren't ... they feel dry. We have some NIBCO 3/4 inch ball valves that were installed at the same time. Those don't have any corrosion at all. We do have hard water, so could that have caused the valves to leak or corrode ever so slowly? Oh and the corroded valves are on both hot and cold water pipes...
I just watched a video from copper.org and they give lots of reasons for NOT heating the value cup first. 1) it does conduct heat as well as the copper tube, 2) it expand the cup and increases the airspace. If you start with the tube, it expands to decrease the airspace.
+Brad Cathey Well like i said, it works for me. And remember, copper.org don't deal with brass alloys! They love copper. Heat the socket and tube, and you will wonders. No leaks for me. thanks again
Saw similar info, new lead free components don't transfer heat as much, then that air gap, and using the pipe heated first and kept hot as you heat the cup is how we go with new lead free.
NOPE!... In their video, they show a BRASS with NO-LEAD alloy valve that conducts heat much less then the copper pipe, so they correctly heated the copper pipe first, so that the heat is much more easily conducted Deep inside the socket of the low heat conduiction brass valve. I suggest you look for their video. While they waste a lot of solder in their demo, their procedure seems a little better. Respectfully, Amclaussen.
Good study on removing ball Teflon. You should also do a study for without removing the ball Teflon. How to avoid heat damage if the ball Teflon not removed during soldering?
Dude your soldering probably the best among I saw on you tube and you do everything to the absolute best!!!! I must give credit for everything you said because it is damn valid all I said that in real life when you work on a construction site simply there is no time and need to be such a perfectionist. Your work is flawless but unfeasible in real life situation that's all!
Thanks for the video. You attributed the small spot with no flux present as being caused by a lack of heat. Question: Could that be caused by less than perfectly round pipe, where the spot with no flux was a small area with a pinch (interference) fit between the two parts? The reason I ask is that I desoldered a pipe fitting and have sanded/brushed the old solder away as best as possible in order to install a new fitting. The fitting fits, but a snug in a couple spots. I don't know if the capillary action will work its way into a slight interference fit.
nope. remember, when u apply heat the pipe will expand. So i dont care how tight the fit. once you properly prep, and flux, u should be gold. i just didnt prep as good as it should have been. hard to find on youtube anyone who takes apart their solder joints.
@@MrTooTechnical Thanks for your reply. I would have much preferred just cutting instead of desoldering. But the way the plumbing was installed would make this a MAJOR headache. IMMEDIATELY adjacent to the fitting I needed to remove are two "T's", then a valve, and then an inch later - the wall (and, no, it's not the wall some jerk says Mexico will pay for)
@@MrTooTechnical Thanks. It's been slow. But if I get the soldering right, I will have completed my first ever hot water tank installation. Replacing a 21 year old, 50 gallon gas one which started making odd sounds (well past due)
The fitting brush may have had particles on it from its last use. It also may have removed a bit of surface tarnish from the inside of the valve. That's what it's supposed to do. It's not a bad idea to wipe out the valve before soldering.
Dave I liked your video and learned some useful things. I have a question: I have unsoldered a couple of half inch ball valves. Was planning to reuse them on another system. Can I do that or are the valves damaged by the heat of melting the original joints?
@@MrTooTechnical I dismantled my homemade passive water heater and set the copper pipes and fittings aside about 25 years ago. Now I have a use for the valves. Did I ruin them by unsolderring them? Can I reuse the valves? Or did I melt the teflon seats? Maybe I should not take a chance and just go buy a couple of new ones.
Fortunately, I have 2' x 4' drop ceiling tiles down stairs where the leak occurred, and bought a bundle of replacement tiles at Home Depot! My wife even let me buy beer! 😆
You're supposed to heat up the tube first my friend. The Alloy Valve is delicate, so the copper pipe must be heated up first.Then after you've heated it up well, then you heat up the valve. Then start touching with the solder all around. Good Luck with everything.
DAVE: you should listen sometime...Try to heat applying the flame to the copper tube first (you cannot overheat it easily), it carries the heat much more easily than the Brass-with-no-lead-alloy valve. By heating the tube first, you avoid starting to overheat the seat. The copper tube is GEST EXPANDED and it now has a THINNER gap to get the heat to the valve socket. If you try to solder overhead, do it both ways and you"ll find that starting by heating the copper tube first is better and helps to carry the heat deep inside the socket, plus it keeps the seat area cooler.
@@alfredomarquez9777 thanks for the follow up and explanation as to why to heat the pipe first. I saw people commenting on it but you explained it logically as to why it should be done that way. If only Dave would listen and learn instead of misleading others. Also Dave is heating on the same side he is soldering, melting the solder with the flame. Instructional videos such as this make it worse for amateurs trying to learn the RIGHT way to do it. What Dave should do is take down the video or make comments in his video on things he's learned to do it better instead of telling people like you that they are wrong (he actually said ozzy was wrong).
I HAVE A PROBLEM DESOLDERING A 3/4 INCH BALL VALVE, I VE APPLIED HEAT TO IT WITH A HIGH HEAT MAP GAS TORCH, I HOLD IT THERE FOR A WHILE AND NOTHING..IT IS MAP GAS THAT I AM USING, HOW DO I GET IT OFF?
Over in the UK it is nearly impossible to find valves with soldered ends. Valves are only available with compression ends or sometimes pushfit ends for plastic pipe!
The other problem with those loose copper burrs is that they may eventually break free and get stuck in the down steam shut-off valve/faucet seal, causing a drip issue!
you failed lol. YOu watch the end of their vid and tell me how much solder he wastes by trying to keep feeding. And as i demonstrated, i aint no pro, but i did show more the 80% solder coverage. Something they cannot attest to. lates
The operative word here is move on...Dude you are OCD at its highest level! Haha! Don’t beat yourself up over it not being perfect. You did a goood job!
Great video and very meticulous and thorough, BUT not very practical if you're doing a lot of joints.Wiping a joint is potential for creating a leak.If you look really close when he solders, at the point where he first applies the solder, the solder beaded up which indicates the pipe did not get hot enough for the solder to flow and properly bond with the copper.he applied the heat at about 7 o'clock, the little at 1 o'clock and 12 o'clock. A little more at 3 or 4 o'clock would have been a bit more evenly heated.That is most likely the same area where the void was in the joint. Then when he reheated it and wiped it, it did seal the rim. I have repaired a lot of burned joints because those who burn them are not moving the torch around enough. They have a tendency to hold the torch at one place and use too much heat.Again great Video. Like David said, don't quench the joint. It crystalizes the solder and weakens the joint.
Best video ever since I have watched regarding Copper-Soldering. Good Job !!! 👍👍
Thanks. I made the best vid ever. Lol
This is a fantastic “ How Too” video for beginners like me. Many others will leave out certain things that they think the beginner already knows.
Amazing. Thanks.
I love how you cross section the valve at the end of the video to prove your instruction throughout the entire video has superb results. I've never done copper soldering before. Looking forward to it now. I'm doing an air compressor plumbing setup with plenty of metal ball valves. This is why I love RUclips. Thank you for the excellent instruction.
Thank you
What's an air compressor plumbing setup?
Great tutorial Dave. I can’t tell you how much I miss soldering with lead solder, it was so fast and easy!
Thx
Great job, Dave. I appreciate your time and effort to record this video, and share your knowledge. God bless!
Great job! Taking the joint apart and assessing was very helpful. Seeing the "anatomy" brings important understanding.
Well done!
Very good video,thank you.Many contractors and plumbers call themselves "professionals" and neglect to debur the pipe as you do in the video.Deburring is extremely important as you state in the video because burs can cause turbulance in the pipe which can and will eventually lead to pin holes in the copper pipe.Again thank you for your video and God bless you and your family.
Thanks
Destructive testing is the superior method of verification. Thanks for your video.
It is a very good, thorough video. Highly recommend.
I usually braze at my job, so I'm really thankful for this patient and detailed demonstration. Thanks!
Thanks again.
This video is informative in several ways.
I've been doing home-owner plumbing for decades and soldering has become so much more difficult. I remember my dad having a big lead melting-pot and he would just dip pieces in so they would be pre-heated/coated at the joints. Almost like Lego, it was so easy.
The combination of practical and scientific info here is just right.
And that cross-section view is great !
Helped me change out 8 old failing rubber-seat valves for new ball-valves in my basement without frustration.
+Andy Westwood glad i could help.
Very helpful for the guy who has to put in a valve every ten years or so. Thanks, Dave.
Kick ass. Thanks.
Sir, you are an excellent instructor, thank you so much. I learn so much from this video. English is not my native language but a could understand you and follow your instructions. Again, thank you.
Thanks
Excellent video Dave. I feel confident I can do my ball valve this weekend. Thanks
Greg
thanks. let me know how it goes.
I’ve watched a few vids. This one is the best. I completely trust his techniques. Thank you for your generosity and time.
Thanks
Very detailed and explained every thing, well done. Most of these videos are just 5 minutes, and dont explain the why and hows. Thank you.
Kick ass. Thanks.
Nice job David! You have just gave me some confidence to perform plumbing job for my brand new water softener installation.
How did I do that?
Good video, Thank you!
heres a cold hard fact Dave..
every guy who calls himself a plumber and makes fun of you on this thread only does it cuz you do nicer work than them at their own full time job.
if only everyone cared about the quality of work they do as much as you ...great job thnx for the tips!
Thsnks
dave daved After all of that.... YOU MISSPELLED "THANKS" ! I also noticed that you did NOT wear pants that show your butt-crack. What kind of plumbing professional are you? 😆. Seriously.... Thank you for a great video! 😀 Signed -- An Ancient Sparky.
Very thorough and scientific! Thank you!
Yes it is. Thanks.
excellent video...I needed to know the theory behind a perfect joint. all my joints will be better now. thanks dave.
cocodog85 dont do this! watch a diff video bro
U failed trey. It's okay. You are a pro. Most of us aint. Lol
dave daved . . had to poke fun at ya. that's construction. no hard feelings. . you did do a better job than some foreman ive seen so, ya know.
Dave ... What a great video! I learned how to solder in the Electronics field, and have gained quite a bit of proficiency in that regard. However, when it came to plumbing, I've pretty much been a miserable failure, even though, I finally got all of my solder joints to work they weren't a pretty sight. Many years later, I'm looking at replacing a ball valve (in the vertical position), that I installed a long time ago [20 - 25 years ago]. (It needs to be reinstalled, because it froze in it's open position, and the only way I could get it to move was by tapping on the handle with a hammer. It finally moved and closed when I needed to, but a week or two later it developed a hole in the brass body and begin to spray. All that said, your solder joint in this video is like one of the most nicely done joints I've ever seen demonstrated. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
thanks for comments
Excellent job, well done and very detailed. I appreciate it! Thank you
Thanks
Wow, so much extra work. Very detailed work. If you just sand, flux and heat it all works fine. The contamination come out of the fittings as the flux boils, wipe with a dry rag, and run your solder. Take off aerators for the sinks down line and flush the system of any excess flux or contaminations that made there way into the pipes.
It works. I made a great vid. Woohoo
@@MrTooTechnical You did, nice technique.
Beautiful. A very comprehensive and detailed tutorial. Thank you.
Thanks.
Ok we got it, clean it good. Any one soldering cooper is going to find out, it got to be clean !
Most people now is going to use some quick coupling-even pro plumbers. But very good instructions/training but this is a dying breed !
It’s the greatest ball valve soldering video on RUclips. Lol
Very good, thorough instructional video. Thank you.
Thank yoi
Wow a lot of effort and really good demonstration.
yes it is. thanks
Excelent and instructive video, thx!
Good info thanks. Definitely don't want to over heat the connections or use too much solder I can see.
Also, I didn't have 40 minutes so I viewed it at 1.5X speed, worked nicely.
I wish I had watched this before melting a ball valve seat. Oh well, I got the 2nd one done correctly thanks to your video.
+Chris Smith perfect. Thanks again
That´s WHY it is better to apply the flame to the COPPER TUBE first, and let the much higher heat conduction of the copper carry the heat to the bottom of the socket. By letting part of the flame touch the brass of the valve, the heat starts to go to the rest of the valve, including the seat!
Nice video, very informative and thorough.
cool. thanks
The video I've been looking for to sweat a ball valve. Nice job. Thanks for the info!
Thanks
Nice video and instructions ! Thank you !
Your welcome. Lates
A
This is a great explanation, thank you!
Awesome video. Didn't leave anything out, very informative! Thank you!
thanks
thanks for the science lesson. AWESOME :)
@Dave Daved - Thanks for sharing the Great Video Dave! Very Thorough and well detailed. I was just soldering some 1/2" copper pipe yesterday... I also clean the inside the pipe after using the brush, and I also use the same style debur tool too _(but stand alone, never saw that style on a pipe cutter)_ as I too thought it did a much better job than the reamers on my pipe cutters. *Glad to see someone agrees!!* LoL :-) :ThumbsUp:
Sandpaper works great to clean the outside of the pipe, but I found that 00 steel wool works great too. Oh and I cut off my fitting wire brush tool, and use it in my drill, makes it a lot faster when cleaning a fitting :-) lol
perfect. thanks
Well I certainly learned something, I will be doing some copper in a couple of weeks and was looking for some pointers thanks Dave.
thanks
Nice explanation and clear visual examples. Very nice job. Thank you
Great detail nice video. One improvement would be to test the joint under actual home water pressure. Close the loop of the copper tube at one end, add a joint or valve in the middle and at other end add a thread connector and do a water pressure test. That way you see if the joins leak and then cut it open to show why it worked.
Best on the topic. Thanks!
thanks
Good analysis of the joint and implications on technique towards the end. To be honest, the narration in the beginning is really slow and repetitive - very difficult to watch - but the last few minutes where you disassemble and section the joint really provide very useful info.
Thanks.
Cool. Thanks again
Great job sir.! Very good detail.
+Smithi Nuntavicharn thanks
Thanks for the video. I always wondered how I should have these valves (opened or closed) when soldering. I knew that the older globe valve types were supposed to be soldered while open so you didn't melt the washer, but I was never sure about ball valves (which are much better valves in my opinion).
+Pete Ciallella thanks
Pride for your heritage, ball valves were called: "Italian Valves" better know by the place where they were invented! After the chinese copied them now they are ball valves.. Nibco Usa paid licensing fees for a good while and did an decent job until shipping out to China. Be careful on the lead content of the chinese valves. Stick to Made in Italy or second choice, Made in Usa.
Useful. Informative. Very good video. Thanks
Thanks
I have seen lots of videos and yes yours its a very very very explanatory and thank you, I learned a lot. great job.
i know. that is why it is the ONLY real vid of its kind on youtube.
excellent video with tear down
thanks.
Good video. I am glad you mentioned that the heat can damage the seals inside. That is why I always take apart the valve before applying heat. It vary simple and only takes a few seconds to do and well worth the time. I apply wet rag to cool it down (which it can be done shortly after soldering) to cool it down for reassembling the valve and it comes out clean, just like you have demonstrated. Very well detailed video. thanks
If you are soldering a short piece of tube to the valve, great!... But you cannot reassemble the valve when both halves are soldered to fixed pipes!
It looks like an important consideration is to remove the valve from the assembled plumbing, and solder it in an ideal position as you showed. Soldering in-situ can be difficult, as when in a vertical position, and getting the solder to flow upwards, and not having complete visibility all around the joint. Nice job!
+Michael Post thank you
The last 10 minutes or so are what really makes your video worth sitting thru (kind of repetitive dialogue dragging the first half down).
Thanks for de-constructing the joint - showing the solder penetration and the vulnerable location of the valve seal; all very educational.
Thanks for taking the time and putting so much work into this video.
Thank you. I appreciate it
Thanks for vid and very thorough explanation. I think in a ball joint you need to be very careful to get the brass fitting hot enough to accept the solder, without heat-damaging that plastic seat washer. The proof is in the pudding and you showed us all the solder coverage in your cross sections.
thank you
I too thought this was a thorough informative video. I wonder about the comment regarding affecting the gap by heating one side or the other first but presumably one would try to have both sides of the joint at the same or really close to the same temperature. Thank you.
thanks.
Thanks Dave, great video.
Excellent, thorough job on this video that covered all of the important and relevant details. I'm glad you took your time, I found every second of your presentation worthwhile. Wish some of the incompetent boobs out there that masquerade as "professionals" that think PEX is God's gift had a quarter of your focus, instead of cowering behind a box of Sharkbites and running for the shelter of their ProPress tool. Keep up the good work Dave.
Indeed. I did make the best soldering ball vid on planet earth. Woohoo
Good Video!
Very knowledgeable about this project
Thanks
Love those gloves. 10 For $11 at HD. I wash them and reuse about 80% of them.You can pick up dimes with them.
dave daved
Have you seen corrosion failures of these valves?
We have some Mueller B&W 3/4 inch ball valves (red handle) which were installed around 2005. The problem we have is, they have white corrosion spots on them!
It's almost as if they're leaky, but they aren't ... they feel dry.
We have some NIBCO 3/4 inch ball valves that were installed at the same time. Those don't have any corrosion at all.
We do have hard water, so could that have caused the valves to leak or corrode ever so slowly? Oh and the corroded valves are on both hot and cold water pipes...
I just watched a video from copper.org and they give lots of reasons for NOT heating the value cup first. 1) it does conduct heat as well as the copper tube, 2) it expand the cup and increases the airspace. If you start with the tube, it expands to decrease the airspace.
+Brad Cathey Well like i said, it works for me. And remember, copper.org don't deal with brass alloys! They love copper. Heat the socket and tube, and you will wonders. No leaks for me. thanks again
Saw similar info, new lead free components don't transfer heat as much, then that air gap, and using the pipe heated first and kept hot as you heat the cup is how we go with new lead free.
NOPE!... In their video, they show a BRASS with NO-LEAD alloy valve that conducts heat much less then the copper pipe, so they correctly heated the copper pipe first, so that the heat is much more easily conducted Deep inside the socket of the low heat conduiction brass valve. I suggest you look for their video. While they waste a lot of solder in their demo, their procedure seems a little better. Respectfully, Amclaussen.
They recommend tinning flux and low temp solder for lead free fittings 👍
Nice. Thanks.
Good study on removing ball Teflon. You should also do a study for without removing the ball Teflon. How to avoid heat damage if the ball Teflon not removed during soldering?
Dude your soldering probably the best among I saw on you tube and you do everything to the absolute best!!!! I must give credit for everything you said because it is damn valid all I said that in real life when you work on a construction site simply there is no time and need to be such a perfectionist. Your work is flawless but unfeasible in real life situation that's all!
Arnold Kekesi and.... THAT Attitude is precisely why America is Doomed.
Confirms my suspicious about some work done on my house. Plumbers don.t even bother deburring.
good video
Thanks for the video. You attributed the small spot with no flux present as being caused by a lack of heat. Question: Could that be caused by less than perfectly round pipe, where the spot with no flux was a small area with a pinch (interference) fit between the two parts?
The reason I ask is that I desoldered a pipe fitting and have sanded/brushed the old solder away as best as possible in order to install a new fitting. The fitting fits, but a snug in a couple spots. I don't know if the capillary action will work its way into a slight interference fit.
nope. remember, when u apply heat the pipe will expand. So i dont care how tight the fit. once you properly prep, and flux, u should be gold. i just didnt prep as good as it should have been. hard to find on youtube anyone who takes apart their solder joints.
@@MrTooTechnical Thanks for your reply. I would have much preferred just cutting instead of desoldering. But the way the plumbing was installed would make this a MAJOR headache. IMMEDIATELY adjacent to the fitting I needed to remove are two "T's", then a valve, and then an inch later - the wall (and, no, it's not the wall some jerk says Mexico will pay for)
@@gregparrott i hope u have no issues
@@MrTooTechnical Thanks. It's been slow. But if I get the soldering right, I will have completed my first ever hot water tank installation. Replacing a 21 year old, 50 gallon gas one which started making odd sounds (well past due)
@@gregparrott there u go
good job, I love it, but I would like to see the rest to see if there is no damage to the other components
there wasnt any. as my soldering was great
Thank you
You are most welcome
Could you use acetone to clean up the surfaces? It works well prior to painting as it dries quickly
Please don’t. Acetone is corrosive. Either wipe it with a clean dry rag or use alcohol. Thanks.
Thanks for posting your work. I learned more about soldering copper to lead free brass. Thank you.
Thx
good training for 1st timers
cool
proper video, nice so rare on this youship
???
sorry fixed the spelling, ship=shit=tube
I'm sorry what is your negative comment
dude relax one of the best videos i have seen no kidding the negative comment is my general take on most of the videos on this website
smile its all good proper engineering approach
Do you solder with the valve open or closed. Nibco says closed...other manufacturers say open....which would possibly damage the seats more? Thanks
I mention that in the vid.
The fitting brush may have had particles on it from its last use. It also may have removed a bit of surface tarnish from the inside of the valve. That's what it's supposed to do. It's not a bad idea to wipe out the valve before soldering.
i did, i cleaned the heck out of the valve and pipe.
Dave I liked your video and learned some useful things. I have a question: I have unsoldered a couple of half inch ball valves. Was planning to reuse them on another system. Can I do that or are the valves damaged by the heat of melting the original joints?
Better to remove. How old r they?
@@MrTooTechnical I dismantled my homemade passive water heater and set the copper pipes and fittings aside about 25 years ago. Now I have a use for the valves. Did I ruin them by unsolderring them? Can I reuse the valves? Or did I melt the teflon seats? Maybe I should not take a chance and just go buy a couple of new ones.
What do u think
What is the best grade sand paper 2 use 4 nice smooth silky copper ends,? ( no scratches, gouges, etc.)
120 grit
I did the copper plumbing on my home addition ~27 years ago, and now have a dripping leak on one of my fittings! 🙃
Fortunately, I have 2' x 4' drop ceiling tiles down stairs where the leak occurred, and bought a bundle of replacement tiles at Home Depot! My wife even let me buy beer! 😆
I guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow to use my MAPP torch! 😊
A perfectionist ! but in tight cramped dark areas harder 2 perform this VERY critical area of work.
Of course. That’s why I’m me
The NIBCO video recommends soldering with the valve closed!
+Edward Rzadkiewicz who cares. so what. My method works. there are many ways to do things. thanks again.
dave daved who cares? Great attitude...
Joshua Lima yes it is. lates
You're supposed to heat up the tube first my friend.
The Alloy Valve is delicate, so the copper pipe must be heated up first.Then after you've heated it up well, then you heat up the valve.
Then start touching with the solder all around.
Good Luck with everything.
wrong. YOu can heat up in any order. That why i did the breaking apart of the joint to prove there are many ways to do things. lol
DAVE: you should listen sometime...Try to heat applying the flame to the copper tube first (you cannot overheat it easily), it carries the heat much more easily than the Brass-with-no-lead-alloy valve. By heating the tube first, you avoid starting to overheat the seat. The copper tube is GEST EXPANDED and it now has a THINNER gap to get the heat to the valve socket. If you try to solder overhead, do it both ways and you"ll find that starting by heating the copper tube first is better and helps to carry the heat deep inside the socket, plus it keeps the seat area cooler.
@@alfredomarquez9777 thanks for the follow up and explanation as to why to heat the pipe first. I saw people commenting on it but you explained it logically as to why it should be done that way. If only Dave would listen and learn instead of misleading others. Also Dave is heating on the same side he is soldering, melting the solder with the flame. Instructional videos such as this make it worse for amateurs trying to learn the RIGHT way to do it. What Dave should do is take down the video or make comments in his video on things he's learned to do it better instead of telling people like you that they are wrong (he actually said ozzy was wrong).
I'm waiting for another video about copper pipes....success for " dave daved"
Nibco requires that ball valves be soldered in the closed position, gate vale are soldered in the open position
I keep em open to avoid having my face blown off... Just my preference
Nibco says to solder their ball valves while CLOSED.
Please check before soldering. @MrTooTechnical was told open, but Nibco's own video says closed.
As stated, I checked with Nibco.
Hmmm. That looks like a cold solder joint. It didn't flow properly around the joint
Which torches model number you used?
Bernzomatic bz8250ht trigger start hose torch
I HAVE A PROBLEM DESOLDERING A 3/4 INCH BALL VALVE, I VE APPLIED HEAT TO IT WITH A HIGH HEAT MAP GAS TORCH, I HOLD IT THERE FOR A WHILE AND NOTHING..IT IS MAP GAS THAT I AM USING, HOW DO I GET IT OFF?
too much water in the pipe. cut it out then. woohoo
Best way2 clean off hard lumps of solder left on copper pipe area 4 my sharkbite ball valve ( reheat wipe with rag, or?)
Gently reheat and wipe with dry rag.
wow
damn skippy. wow.
Over in the UK it is nearly impossible to find valves with soldered ends. Valves are only available with compression ends or sometimes pushfit ends for plastic pipe!
And that is why there are so many valve failures in UK and EU! Solder is the best.
I know solder is best but I can't fit what is impossible to buy.
Amazon.com baby
Importing valves are highly unlikely to fit the main British pipe sizes of 15 mm and 22 and 28 mm outside diameter copper tube sizes
Nope. It's available online baby.
The other problem with those loose copper burrs is that they may eventually break free and get stuck in the down steam shut-off valve/faucet seal, causing a drip issue!
That is why I made the best vid on RUclips to solder a ball valve 😝
@@MrTooTechnical Thank You!
Do I detect a Canadian accent? Ontario?
Additional info at copper institute that shows more even and through pre heating.
maybe, but you aint gonna find that level of detail anywhere else. only my vid. lol
dave daved wrong!
you failed lol. YOu watch the end of their vid and tell me how much solder he wastes by trying to keep feeding. And as i demonstrated, i aint no pro, but i did show more the 80% solder coverage. Something they cannot attest to. lates
So That's silver solder. Whats the reheating all about? why you mess with it again? It's not a Rembrandt.
Thank's for the demo.
correct. my video rocks. lol
👍🏻
Thanks.
Cant believe anyone that does not mount the bench vice to the table
believe it honey. it works great as is. lol
The pieces broke apart to easy and that is why it is a cold joint you need much more heat to solder it well.
ok sure.
Sir ji kya ye video hindi language ma bhi upload kr skte ha ji hindi ma bhi upload kijiye ji plz
The operative word here is move on...Dude you are OCD at its highest level! Haha! Don’t beat yourself up over it not being perfect. You did a goood job!
I did good. Lol
i think that we don't need to apply de fluxe inside the ball valve
Oh yes you do. Thanks.
Dave thanks for trying but this would be similar to me posting a how to on plastic surgery.
Yo. Thanks. You ain't gonna find this kind of detail too often. Lates
Lmfao!
Great video and very meticulous and thorough, BUT not very practical if you're doing a lot of joints.Wiping a joint is potential for creating a leak.If you look really close when he solders, at the point where he first applies the solder, the solder beaded up which indicates the pipe did not get hot enough for the solder to flow and properly bond with the copper.he applied the heat at about 7 o'clock, the little at 1 o'clock and 12 o'clock. A little more at 3 or 4 o'clock would have been a bit more evenly heated.That is most likely the same area where the void was in the joint. Then when he reheated it and wiped it, it did seal the rim. I have repaired a lot of burned joints because those who burn them are not moving the torch around enough. They have a tendency to hold the torch at one place and use too much heat.Again great Video. Like David said, don't quench the joint. It crystalizes the solder and weakens the joint.
i know it works, cuz i am the one who did it and cut it open. hence the perfection.