Interesting video...I'm in the UK, and we are taught slightly differently...Once you clean the pipe and fittings, we are taught not to touch it again with our bare fingers to avoid contaminating the surface with any oils..This might be a throw back to less effective fluxes, but I still try to follow this.. Secondly we are taught to use a minimal amount of flux on the male pipe only, and wipe off any excess that's squeezed outside the joints...Also, we would wipe off any hot flux drips with a dry cotton rag before applying the solder as this helps to prevent the solder running where you don't want it.. Personally I don't do much soldering so tend to follow these steps and have not had any issues but if you are not worried about aesthetics, a bit extra solder certainly does not do harm... Regarding aesthetics, if you do get a little excess solder, a wipe with a dry cotton rag while the joint is still hot can remove the worst of the excess and then wipe down with a damp cloth to remove any surplus flux as you did in the video...
Best video on soldering explaining the need for flux to protrude beyond fitting so solder is sucked into joint,no one has mentioned the important of this.good job
I'd always had leak proof, great success applying flux on the male ends of the pipes ..no need to flux both ends..and basic blue can propane is just fine for residential water lines .. seems like you're making a simple job much to involved.
Agree to disagree. I can solder three fittings with Map pro in the same time it takes to do one with propane (the blue can). Higher heat means getting to solder temp faster. That being said, there's nothing wrong with using propane instead of Map pro. As a matter of fact, I think I recommended it for beginners. Also, best practice is to apply flux to both parts. The extra 2 seconds it takes is great insurance against a poor joint. No shortcuts means higher quality work. Take care!
@@Teach2Build when using MAPP I've heard to turn it down so it's not so very hot.... what is your opinion? Wouldn't that sorta defeat the purpose of quick heating and reduce the flame temp to the level of propane? Or am I overthinking this?
It can certainly overheat both the copper and surrounding areas. Most flame shields can't even handle it full blast! It's important to develop a feel for it, but I control the temp by constantly regulating the distance from the joint to the blue part of the flame, and I treat it constantly by holding the flame away and lightly touching the solder to the joint (once the flux has bubbled). I only continue to hold the solder there (while holding the flame away) once it's getting sucked into the joint. It's similar to propane but with less forgiveness. An overheated joint can be a problem, as can burning a house down, so caution is king.
Doesn't your new fangled pipe cutter have a built in reamer???? For all that it costs, you'd think it should... shouldn't have to use one tool to cut and then pick up another one to deburr... Waste of time, waste of money...Stick with the simple tool dude...
The older style copper cutters have a flip-out internal reamer, but they're terrible, and quickly get hard to pull open due to corrosion so I've always used a separate one, as have every plumber over ever known. Nowadays, we're all using spring-loaded cutters that don't have an internal reamer regardless.
It depends on the tool. My experience has been that you get what you pay for. I bought a cheaper one from a big box store and it was TERRIBLE. Bought a different one from a plumbing supply house and it's made many, many cuts and still cuts quick and clean.
PARDON ME YOU'VE got it wrong..its not sorder..its pronounced. SOLDER. 👌 OK THANKS O.K. USED FOR. SOLDERING COOPER PIPES ARE. I THINK 🤔 YOU NEED TO USE U.KINGDOM LINGO ie what we're working with all over the world except the U.S ...thanks again just remember to use English language O.k
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Interesting video...I'm in the UK, and we are taught slightly differently...Once you clean the pipe and fittings, we are taught not to touch it again with our bare fingers to avoid contaminating the surface with any oils..This might be a throw back to less effective fluxes, but I still try to follow this..
Secondly we are taught to use a minimal amount of flux on the male pipe only, and wipe off any excess that's squeezed outside the joints...Also, we would wipe off any hot flux drips with a dry cotton rag before applying the solder as this helps to prevent the solder running where you don't want it..
Personally I don't do much soldering so tend to follow these steps and have not had any issues but if you are not worried about aesthetics, a bit extra solder certainly does not do harm...
Regarding aesthetics, if you do get a little excess solder, a wipe with a dry cotton rag while the joint is still hot can remove the worst of the excess and then wipe down with a damp cloth to remove any surplus flux as you did in the video...
Best video on soldering explaining the need for flux to protrude beyond fitting so solder is sucked into joint,no one has mentioned the important of this.good job
It's the little things, right?
Excellent tutorial. As a DIY enthusiast, this is the kind of tutorial I am looking for. Thank you for putting this together.
Thanks for the kind words! Best of luck with your projects..
Great video. I have a pinhole leak in a 2" or 3" drain pipe. Any suggestions?
@@mariolaraia1532 pvc or copper?
Great work . Thank you for showing it up it really helps
I'd always had leak proof, great success applying flux on the male ends of the pipes ..no need to flux both ends..and basic blue can propane is just fine for residential water lines .. seems like you're making a simple job much to involved.
Agree to disagree. I can solder three fittings with Map pro in the same time it takes to do one with propane (the blue can). Higher heat means getting to solder temp faster. That being said, there's nothing wrong with using propane instead of Map pro. As a matter of fact, I think I recommended it for beginners.
Also, best practice is to apply flux to both parts. The extra 2 seconds it takes is great insurance against a poor joint. No shortcuts means higher quality work. Take care!
Good point..
@@Teach2Build when using MAPP I've heard to turn it down so it's not so very hot.... what is your opinion? Wouldn't that sorta defeat the purpose of quick heating and reduce the flame temp to the level of propane? Or am I overthinking this?
It can certainly overheat both the copper and surrounding areas. Most flame shields can't even handle it full blast! It's important to develop a feel for it, but I control the temp by constantly regulating the distance from the joint to the blue part of the flame, and I treat it constantly by holding the flame away and lightly touching the solder to the joint (once the flux has bubbled). I only continue to hold the solder there (while holding the flame away) once it's getting sucked into the joint. It's similar to propane but with less forgiveness. An overheated joint can be a problem, as can burning a house down, so caution is king.
They quit making MAPP gas a few years back. They did keep the name, though, so you're buying propane in a cylinder that says MAPP on it.
Great Video Thank You!
Doesn't your new fangled pipe cutter have a built in reamer???? For all that it costs, you'd think it should... shouldn't have to use one tool to cut and then pick up another one to deburr... Waste of time, waste of money...Stick with the simple tool dude...
The older style copper cutters have a flip-out internal reamer, but they're terrible, and quickly get hard to pull open due to corrosion so I've always used a separate one, as have every plumber over ever known. Nowadays, we're all using spring-loaded cutters that don't have an internal reamer regardless.
@@Teach2Build do the cutting wheels last any longer on the new fangled one? It seems they don't last very long on the small cutters I use..
It depends on the tool. My experience has been that you get what you pay for. I bought a cheaper one from a big box store and it was TERRIBLE. Bought a different one from a plumbing supply house and it's made many, many cuts and still cuts quick and clean.
PARDON ME YOU'VE got it wrong..its not sorder..its pronounced. SOLDER. 👌 OK THANKS O.K. USED FOR. SOLDERING COOPER PIPES ARE. I THINK 🤔 YOU NEED TO USE U.KINGDOM LINGO ie what we're working with all over the world except the U.S ...thanks again just remember to use English language O.k
Great Video Thank You!