How to Solder and Repair Copper Plumbing
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- Опубликовано: 18 апр 2021
- They say you can tell how good a plumber is by how pretty his solder joints are. I'd argue you can tell by whether or not the water stays inside the pipes. Take a few minutes to let me walk you through the basics of copper soldering and repair and then take your time.
Consider taking a minute to watch my Fire Safety video here:
• Fire Safety
And maybe this one on getting your water shut off:
• Turn off Your Water
teach2build
Excellent tutorial. As a DIY enthusiast, this is the kind of tutorial I am looking for. Thank you for putting this together.
Thanks for the kind words! Best of luck with your projects..
Great work . Thank you for showing it up it really helps
Great Video Thank You!
I'd always had leak proof, great success applying flux on the male ends of the pipes ..no need to flux both ends..and basic blue can propane is just fine for residential water lines .. seems like you're making a simple job much to involved.
Agree to disagree. I can solder three fittings with Map pro in the same time it takes to do one with propane (the blue can). Higher heat means getting to solder temp faster. That being said, there's nothing wrong with using propane instead of Map pro. As a matter of fact, I think I recommended it for beginners.
Also, best practice is to apply flux to both parts. The extra 2 seconds it takes is great insurance against a poor joint. No shortcuts means higher quality work. Take care!
Good point..
@@Teach2Build when using MAPP I've heard to turn it down so it's not so very hot.... what is your opinion? Wouldn't that sorta defeat the purpose of quick heating and reduce the flame temp to the level of propane? Or am I overthinking this?
It can certainly overheat both the copper and surrounding areas. Most flame shields can't even handle it full blast! It's important to develop a feel for it, but I control the temp by constantly regulating the distance from the joint to the blue part of the flame, and I treat it constantly by holding the flame away and lightly touching the solder to the joint (once the flux has bubbled). I only continue to hold the solder there (while holding the flame away) once it's getting sucked into the joint. It's similar to propane but with less forgiveness. An overheated joint can be a problem, as can burning a house down, so caution is king.
PARDON ME YOU'VE got it wrong..its not sorder..its pronounced. SOLDER. 👌 OK THANKS O.K. USED FOR. SOLDERING COOPER PIPES ARE. I THINK 🤔 YOU NEED TO USE U.KINGDOM LINGO ie what we're working with all over the world except the U.S ...thanks again just remember to use English language O.k
Doesn't your new fangled pipe cutter have a built in reamer???? For all that it costs, you'd think it should... shouldn't have to use one tool to cut and then pick up another one to deburr... Waste of time, waste of money...Stick with the simple tool dude...
The older style copper cutters have a flip-out internal reamer, but they're terrible, and quickly get hard to pull open due to corrosion so I've always used a separate one, as have every plumber over ever known. Nowadays, we're all using spring-loaded cutters that don't have an internal reamer regardless.
@@Teach2Build do the cutting wheels last any longer on the new fangled one? It seems they don't last very long on the small cutters I use..
It depends on the tool. My experience has been that you get what you pay for. I bought a cheaper one from a big box store and it was TERRIBLE. Bought a different one from a plumbing supply house and it's made many, many cuts and still cuts quick and clean.
Great Video Thank You!