I figure there's plenty of places you can look at a Space Marine, after all! There's a whole world of interesting miniatures out there, so it's fun to hit the internet and see the options available.
Nice. This is gonna help me when I finally whip myself into painting my Saracen warband for Outremer, washed the resins, assembled, based, primed... and sitting in a box of "to do" stuff.
Looking at this figure and listening to you describe his back story brings to mind the Muslim adventurer played by Antonio Banderas in the movie The 13th Warrior. Great job as usual. 👍
Long time listener, first time caller! Quick question, why did you decide to thin your Agrax for this particular mini / colour scheme, versus other times where you've used Agrax straight from the pot? Thanks for the response!
The main reason is to keep it from staining some of the colour quite so strongly as if it were unthinned. You still get the recess shading, but you can go straight to highlights ordinarily - except in the case of super light colours, like that Rakarth Flesh - without having to go for a mid-tone transition.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio There is a significant demand on a video on your shading magic. Strong tone, agrax, the moments you decide to thin. Your knowledge in this field is outstanding!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Hmm, would you suggest doing this in general, using a mix of 2 medium to 3 dark brown / agrax? The time savings of not having to go to a mid-tone sounds great. Any reason not to use the 2:3 mix, instead of pure agrax?
Sonic, your channel is a Table Top Crusade! I see Mahogany brown is now your favorite. I have already purchased VMC cavalry brown and red leather based on your suggestions. Would they fit as highlight color for Mahagony?
Cavalry Brown will be quite a bit darker than Mahogany Brown - and way more red! - though Red Leather is usually what I use to highlight Mahogany Brown with after it's been shaded. It's good stuff! Works for all sorts of things.
Hi Sonic, other than a few rattle cans are there any primers that are different in composition to a regular paint? I understand the need for a solid base layer to paint on and sometimes we want solid white to paint bright yellows and reds or black for black templars but if you paint rhinox hide over black then why not just paint rhinox hide as the primer? The reason that I ask is that I'm trying to find a better way to zenith prime and I see so many youtube clips of a zenith prime paint black prime and spray white from above. If black isn't necessary then why not paint a base layer of eg. green for a green cape and dark flesh on skin, paint the colours we want in and then zenith white highlight. That way we get our highlight and colour together instead of having to paint over our zenith base.
The short answer is that primer is formulated differently to 'ordinary' paint, so it gives further coats something to adhere to. Painting, say, Rhinox Hide straight over bare metal or plastic isn't going to stick particularly well, and even if you can get a couple of coats to stick there's more chance of it rubbing off through normal handling. I'm also not totally sure I get what you mean by spraying white over colours? That isn't going to highlight them, it'll simply make them white. You'll still need to paint a colour over the top or you'll just have an odd white surface with patchy colour visible underneath.
I've never really used enamels except very rarely when doing streaking or pin lining large armoured vehicles. The drying time on them makes them a nightmare to work with unless you're planning far ahead - even harder when you've got limited time to record like this! ;)
Nicely done (as per usual) Sonic, really captures the mini - nice shield work. Grendel Hype for next week! Will you do a cameo of the full set when it's complete?
I'll probably not end up doing the whole set, as that's quite a lot of videos with fairly similar methods the whole way through, but the monster will give me plenty of interesting stuff to show off. :D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Makes sense - I was more wondering if you would do a "Ta-daa" moment in a later video saying here is the completed Beowulf set - thanks for replying - love the diversity of minis
It would have ended up being much brighter than I wanted. In this way I get a 'mostly black' primer which lets me keep some darker recesses where I want them.
In part I suspect it's a little more pink on screen than it is in reality, but even then it's probably not as brown as you'd have in mind. Ordinarily I'd prefer to err on the side of 'too pink' than going too far in the other direction and having him look a caricature.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Although there is good reason to think that a 10th century (or thereabouts) Arab may realistically have quite dark skin, I understand the desire not to make it look like a crude caricature. (And I will say that I'd much rather see a pinkish-hued Arab than have to read another commentary on 'oriental complexion' or 'painting negroes' or whatever racist-as-hell-sounding bullshit some painting guides come up with!). The camera probably is misrepresenting it a bit, too, that's a good point. When painting Arabs, Turks, etc (which I've done a little of and have a lot more left to do) I've tended to go for something with more yellow/orange/gold in it, to avoid it looking just brown while also not getting the unnatural pinkness, personally. I also try to vary the skin tone a bit across a unit-I think looking at one individual miniature without that context can be easier to criticise because you can't show how there are actually some quite light-skinned and some very dark-skinned Arabs, and where you think of this particular tone as sitting on that spectrum.
![Napoleonic French in (Mostly) Contrast for The Silver Bayonet [How I Paint Things]](/img/1.gif)
Exposure to new minis is arguably the best thing about your channel mate!
I figure there's plenty of places you can look at a Space Marine, after all! There's a whole world of interesting miniatures out there, so it's fun to hit the internet and see the options available.
I like the historical (lore or factual) color scheme facts. Always super interesting.
Another great paintjob! I really like the colors you picked for this one.
That’s a lovely looking mini, very nicely done 👍
would enjoy seeing you do more figures from this box. Really nice figures.
Thank you!
Your first application of that blue almost hurt my eyes. Now I want to paint more colorful stuff rather than WW2. Excellent job!
I'll admit, I was a little anxious myself when I first got it on the brush and realised just how bright it actually was...!
What a great painting tutorial! The figure looks so real. Thanks for sharing this.
Hi great as always and thanks for keeping me sane through the lock down all the best
Awesome! Love the selection of minis on this channel!
Another great vid, mate. Thousand sons blue is a beaut of a colour!
I'm dead surprised at how nice it is!
Nice.
This is gonna help me when I finally whip myself into painting my Saracen warband for Outremer, washed the resins, assembled, based, primed... and sitting in a box of "to do" stuff.
Aah, the ever-expanding grey mountain... I know that feeling all too well!
Looking at this figure and listening to you describe his back story brings to mind the Muslim adventurer played by Antonio Banderas in the movie The 13th Warrior. Great job as usual. 👍
Refreshing colour scheme!
Long time listener, first time caller!
Quick question, why did you decide to thin your Agrax for this particular mini / colour scheme, versus other times where you've used Agrax straight from the pot?
Thanks for the response!
Also is there a reason why agrax instead strong tone this time or it was just for science? Thanks for video, very nice miniature indeed
The main reason is to keep it from staining some of the colour quite so strongly as if it were unthinned. You still get the recess shading, but you can go straight to highlights ordinarily - except in the case of super light colours, like that Rakarth Flesh - without having to go for a mid-tone transition.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio There is a significant demand on a video on your shading magic. Strong tone, agrax, the moments you decide to thin. Your knowledge in this field is outstanding!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Hmm, would you suggest doing this in general, using a mix of 2 medium to 3 dark brown / agrax?
The time savings of not having to go to a mid-tone sounds great.
Any reason not to use the 2:3 mix, instead of pure agrax?
@@dandes7113 Yes! A video purely on shading (eg when to shade for what colours, metallics, maybe using coloured washes, how thin, etc) would be great
Beautiful job!
Super cool
That blue is very nice 👌 💙
Hype for troll!
Sonic, your channel is a Table Top Crusade! I see Mahogany brown is now your favorite. I have already purchased VMC cavalry brown and red leather based on your suggestions. Would they fit as highlight color for Mahagony?
Cavalry Brown will be quite a bit darker than Mahogany Brown - and way more red! - though Red Leather is usually what I use to highlight Mahogany Brown with after it's been shaded. It's good stuff! Works for all sorts of things.
Hi Sonic, other than a few rattle cans are there any primers that are different in composition to a regular paint? I understand the need for a solid base layer to paint on and sometimes we want solid white to paint bright yellows and reds or black for black templars but if you paint rhinox hide over black then why not just paint rhinox hide as the primer? The reason that I ask is that I'm trying to find a better way to zenith prime and I see so many youtube clips of a zenith prime paint black prime and spray white from above. If black isn't necessary then why not paint a base layer of eg. green for a green cape and dark flesh on skin, paint the colours we want in and then zenith white highlight. That way we get our highlight and colour together instead of having to paint over our zenith base.
The short answer is that primer is formulated differently to 'ordinary' paint, so it gives further coats something to adhere to. Painting, say, Rhinox Hide straight over bare metal or plastic isn't going to stick particularly well, and even if you can get a couple of coats to stick there's more chance of it rubbing off through normal handling.
I'm also not totally sure I get what you mean by spraying white over colours? That isn't going to highlight them, it'll simply make them white. You'll still need to paint a colour over the top or you'll just have an odd white surface with patchy colour visible underneath.
Appreciate the comments about primers. Do you ever use enamels as a primer?
I've never really used enamels except very rarely when doing streaking or pin lining large armoured vehicles. The drying time on them makes them a nightmare to work with unless you're planning far ahead - even harder when you've got limited time to record like this! ;)
Antonio Banderas from 13nth Warrrior????
Can't say I've ever seen it, honestly!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio the movie is based upon the guy Ibn who was from bagdat and was exiled and went as a diplomat to the Norse people
Huh! Interesting... One I might very well have to check out, then. :D Cheers for the suggestion!
Yes someone remembers 13th warrior!
How can one forget .... "who will be the first man" "I will be the first man"
Do you like Deathwatch from warhammer 40k BTW love your videos man
Very nice again my friend
Thank you , Sonic .
Nicely done (as per usual) Sonic, really captures the mini - nice shield work. Grendel Hype for next week! Will you do a cameo of the full set when it's complete?
I'll probably not end up doing the whole set, as that's quite a lot of videos with fairly similar methods the whole way through, but the monster will give me plenty of interesting stuff to show off. :D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Makes sense - I was more wondering if you would do a "Ta-daa" moment in a later video saying here is the completed Beowulf set - thanks for replying - love the diversity of minis
Loved the video even if it wasn't the model I voted for. (Looking forward to the troll, though!)
You and me both!
Quite nice!
Wow, very cool,
Why didn't you just prime in the brown?
It would have ended up being much brighter than I wanted. In this way I get a 'mostly black' primer which lets me keep some darker recesses where I want them.
if you've got problems painting stripes, there's masking tape :)
Now there's a cunning idea!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Baldrick cunning?
So cunning you could pin a tail on it and call it a weasel, yes. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudiothank you, I now treat myself to a turnip.
Iz good
Am I the only one who doesn't think that looks like Arab skin at all? The main problem seems to be that the base coat is way too pink.
In part I suspect it's a little more pink on screen than it is in reality, but even then it's probably not as brown as you'd have in mind. Ordinarily I'd prefer to err on the side of 'too pink' than going too far in the other direction and having him look a caricature.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Although there is good reason to think that a 10th century (or thereabouts) Arab may realistically have quite dark skin, I understand the desire not to make it look like a crude caricature. (And I will say that I'd much rather see a pinkish-hued Arab than have to read another commentary on 'oriental complexion' or 'painting negroes' or whatever racist-as-hell-sounding bullshit some painting guides come up with!).
The camera probably is misrepresenting it a bit, too, that's a good point.
When painting Arabs, Turks, etc (which I've done a little of and have a lot more left to do) I've tended to go for something with more yellow/orange/gold in it, to avoid it looking just brown while also not getting the unnatural pinkness, personally.
I also try to vary the skin tone a bit across a unit-I think looking at one individual miniature without that context can be easier to criticise because you can't show how there are actually some quite light-skinned and some very dark-skinned Arabs, and where you think of this particular tone as sitting on that spectrum.