Do You Need A Custom Pitman Arm And How To Build One! Ultimate Land Rover Discovery Build Episode 11
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2020
- Sometimes custom builds need unplanned custom parts! Most lift kits recommend a drop pitman arm. But when you are building one of a kind suspension on one of a kind axles on a vehicle that is rarely modified, it can be difficult to get the parts you need!
Today we are talking about pitman arms and what orientation works best for an offroad vehicle. Then I'll build a custom pitman arm and get this 1 ton Land Rover closer to hitting the trails!
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#welding #offroad #liftkit 
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Can you explain/show a little more about what you did to your pitman arm? It looks like you turned your tiered end, but don’t really know. Great videos and fab. Very educational.
just a thought, try moving steering box. Any where along the axis (up, down) of the big end will not change geometry (within reason). And steering column u-joints make changes easy at that end. Has worked fine for me on several builds over the last 4 decades.
Now i "need" a discovery for camping trips, and the LJ only for trail riding! great video as usual Nate, and great buid!
I love this build. It is unique, Jeep builds are a dime a dozen.
I have a Dodge Nitro on 38's and one tons front and rear. I agree with your statement too.
Enjoy the QA talk. Excited to see the j10 finished.
Awesome job on the pitman arm.
Made to fit and upgraded to double shear.
Man, the quality in filming, editing, and production of your videos are increasing greatly! Very nice. Keep it up man.
Can't wait to see the Disco up & running on the road and trails... Your an artist with the welder 😁👍 going to be awesome brother.
Thanks buddy 🤘
I'm trying to improve my tow rig was wondering if you had any plans of doing any videos on ways to set up or improve your tow rig for towing your crawler.
Very possible. I have some fabrication projects planned for the dodge 🤘
I honestly don't unhook the battery. I have a small garage and usually have to pull stuff in and out. Most things are tig welded. Thanks for letting us know where to order abrasives. The metal shop is kinda high and options are limited to what you see on their wall.
It's a good thing you thought ahead on the pitman arm puller... In my experience LR steering boxes won't last long with big tires.
Not to start something or bring up the past, im glad you seperated from Bleepin Jeep and did your own thing. Your videos and your teaching are done beautifully. Keep the videos coming
Thank you very much for the kind words buddy! I needed to start my own channel and build my own identity. I've never been happier 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle and in the end thats all that matters.
I like the double shear I got for my pitman shaft with a bearing on the bottom. 99 ram 2500
Good info as usual. Oddly enough I was just starting the same project for my xj. Never worried about my sector shaft until I got these new 40s. I like the end result and overbuilt is just my style. Good job man. Appreciate you! I'll be sure and hit up your vendor for some grinding disks... always in need.
And like always I can't wait to see the Disco on the trail 🤙
A little additional information about ecu problems with welding. In my experience your ground clamp is extremely important. If you do something stupid like welding on your body with the ground on the frame you might backfeed through a ecu ground to bridge that gap. I got to see a $1800 mistake on a mustang by someone welding on the firewall with the ground on the subframe. Electricity passed through the body mounted PCM to motor and then to the subframe.
Thanks bro 🤘
I'm pretty sure this was supposed to be step 5 of this series, I hope; I've been following from 1 to 4; I see 6, 7 and 9 but I don't see 8. I hope I can see them all, this is really a great series with so much knowledge in it. I don't want to miss any of it.
That middle diagram looks like the factory setup on TJs. I've always read that drop pitman arms are a bad idea.
Nate, you should apply for Ultimate Adventure next year with the disco, no doubt that you could get in with that!
This is awesome. I have been thinking about doing this on my 1993 80 series with one tons.
11 thumbs down...from haters with no skills and no desire to advance themselves.
Good stuff Nate. I've been fabricating a long time but I always love to see another perspective. I remain a student to my craft.
I'm particularly enjoying this series as it is very similar to my axle swap.
dang im glad theres a good suppllier of consumables!
Pretty excited myself
Nate, I will probably never build an off-road dirt vehicle but your install and build suspensions, cross over well to Hotrods and Muscle cars.
I agree! Lots of good information in both communities 🤘 thanks for watching
The disco is looking awesome. Can’t wait to see it out in its element when the build is complete...
Thank you so much for these extremely informative videos! Lifesaver
In regards to welding and electrical. The saying, “safety is not an accident” comes to mind. I purposely do things in preventing bigger headaches from happening 💁🏼♂️ but that’s me 🤗
In my opinion anything more than 3" drop just move the steering box down and make the steering column longer
I personally blew up a coil on a sbc welding on the truck it accurately popped leaked oil out
On the topic of welding with the battery connected to the ECU. For both AC and DC current returns to source, as the vehicle is not the source of the energy there is no realistic reason the current from welding will travel through the electrical system especially if people are clamping the welder close to where there working.
This is exactly how I feel on the subject. Welding 101, keep your ground close to your work. If your welding on the back bumper don't ground to the fire wall lol. I see no reason for an interaction between the ecu and the welder unless you use the ecu as a ground
Nate I want to send you my jeep and have u build it the right way! Been following you for a bit and I love your builds!
As always good info and video,Just Did a sas conversion on a 99 Durango we used 2005 f250 axles and made a custom pitman but it is short and don't turn the tire completely, we need to make another one
Can't get enough of your build videos!! Love your passion!
Thanks!
I'd love for someone to "fix" the H1 pitman arm and idler. It's basically a consumable that has to be replaced every year because of the idiotic rubber insert in it is not up to the task of driving the steering system.
Ayyy another new sponsor! Great job sir 👍
Thanks bud 🤘
Loving the Content! Great job Nate! Can't wait until Trail to Sema!
Thanks! Me too!
How did you come to the conclusion to rotate the axis of the tie rod end. And your comment section somebody question the unplugging of the computers. I always ground to what I'm welding on. If you ground to the frame and weld on the body or vice versa you can fry a whole lot more than the computer. Great video keep up the good work
Rotating it was by far the easiest option while still keeping a good relationship with the panhard bar. 👍
Do you have any information on how a welder could possibly fry electronics? As long as you not groudning through the sensor I don't see how they could possibly interact at all. But like I say all the time I'm never married to my ideas. If you have evidence of how this could be possible I want to hear it 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle I only hobby weld but I do have an extensive background in electronics. Since welding uses high current electricity those currents have to travel through what your welding. That current can induce voltages in wires and especially coils, for example relays and some sensors. The ecu is protected from stray voltages to a point. Unfortunately a welder is still capable of exceeding those protections and causing damage. High frequency start and pulsing have additional ways to induce damaging voltage. Look up inductive kick as one example.
Disconnecting the ecu and battery may not help because open wires can act as an antenna with out a load to drain away the damaging currents. Having said all that, I do weld on my Jeep Commander. It has a bunch of computers all over. I follow best practice in that I connect my ground to the part I am welding and strike my arc on the part I am directly grounded to. This helps to prevent stray current traveling along body parts and inducing voltages in places I don't want. This is also important to help prevent burning bearings.
Thanks for the videos, I have a front bumper project in mind for my Jeep.
Superb explanation. I never want to experience a sector shaft break- In my opinion thats a worst case scenario. I've heard that the TR can be fit behind the front axle when all else fails.
Awesome work dude. Videos are wicked always waiting for the next one. Keep up the good work 👍
Sweet build. I have setup several suspensions my self and have one recommendation for up travel clearance. Stuff one side and droop the other then check for tire clearance (on front check lock to lock as well). You will find that it will make contact with fender well sooner than you think. I normally check clearance at full articulation and then add an additional inch or so to account for body roll. always do this before mounting shocks to get full use of shock travel. Keep up the custom work.
Where are you at in the process of adapting the abs system to the axles? I imagine that might be a video in itself. Amazing stuff as always keep up the great work.
Great build btw. I’m really enjoying the info. I’m picking up a D2 and I’m a metal fabricator.
This Disco build is awesome Nate , I'm learning a lot from you . Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us . I'm so looking forward to seeing it on the Trail to Sema . Take care and be safe my friend and also belated birthday wishes for your daughter .
Nice work
Thank you!
One time I forgot to disconnect the battery while welding on my F-150. When I was done I turned the truck on and the headlights where on, I don’t have daylight running lights, and I thought that was weird. So I pushed the brake to put it into gear and when I touched the brake about 5 or six relays where clicking under the dash and the lights turned off! I let the brake go and the headlights turn on again. That happened like 10 times in a row. I try to never forget to take the battery off. It’s cheap insurance! It’s the same as when jump starting a car with a dead battery, you never want the helper vehicle to be on. Otherwise you are asking 600-800amp from the running car. Alternators and computers don’t like that.
What vehicle has a factory alternator that puts out 600-800 amps
This video was sweet! I'm super stoked on the land rover build. Your editing skills have come so far since the bleepinjeep days! Also, you should make some vector art stickers of the tj and the j10 and disco. I would definitely buy those!
Thanks man! We have talked about some stickers like you are describing. We weren't sure if anyone would buy them. Maybe it's time we consider it 👍
Please build a cargo slide for Pich Ups. I need one for my VW AMAROK. You make great videos, a big thank you from a fan from Germany.
Thanks for watching man! We lived in Berlin when I was a kid 👍
I feel like this is the first time you've fabbed something up, but didn't really explain what you actually did. It seems like the new pitman arm is way thicker, and possibly lower(?) than before. I guess I just can't really tell what you changed to get better clearance.
What he said. If the original pitman arm was flat (with the link joint sitting below the arm), was this modification just to allow you to raise the heim joint into the same plane as the pitman arm, rather than below it?
@@rhyswilliams695 the original pitman arm had the heim joint bolted under it with the bolt shooting straight down. What he did was rotate how the heim is bolted, so instead of the bolt going down and hanging 2 inches below the arm where it hits the tie rod, the bolt now kinda kicks back and avoids the tie rod. It also lifted the heim joint up a little for more clearance.
@kshepthedrummer nailed it bro 👊
@@kshepthedrummer thanks, I'll have to watch again.
Damn man, you got a groopy!
Hey Nate, love the content and interaction. 95 Nissan hardbody extra cab tdi swap recommendations?
Nate love the videos. You make amazing content and the camera work is top-notch... There are too many monotone jeep channels that will put you to sleep.(you know the guy) 😴 I'm loving the fabrication series videos. Looking forward to the next video!!!
I presume same basic principles apply to a cherokee acquiring Dana 60s from ford, swiching one to rear axle 4 link rear, thanks to you will build front end the right way. Surprised you didn't make pitman arm with sandwiched 3/8 steel.
Next level , great content
Thanks!
Dirt Lifestyle I’ve purchased my first mig and have been learning to weld , tips you give a great and very informative. As well working a on a 12V and learning to build it top to bottom
Thank you
@@ms.karihart2983 I'm very happy to help 🤘
Tig welding with high frequency start fries electronics maybe that is where the stories come from
Is there enough side to side twist in the heim joint for the steering box to go lock to lock?
In theory. I can't do a real test until I can remove the jack stands 👍
I got the same question.
I always love your videos, Nate. Always look forward to them on Sundays. Question, do you have plans any time soon to do an overland trailer from scratch?
I hope so. Priority number 1 is finishing the disco for trail to sema. All other projects fall in line after that 👍
You should look for a land rover TD5 for it once you're over the V8
Hey Nate! Love the content! I am a high school kid with a 98 ford ranger I absolutely love this thing to death but I’d like to see it be more capable any quick bang for my buck things I can do? Thanks for taking the time!
Nice 👍 loving it 🍻
Thanks!
I'm trying to build a bullet proof ifs front end close to stock height any pointers tips? 88-98 gm4x4
I don’t have a pitman arm.
But that’s because I’m running PSC full hydro 👍
I was just thinking why not just go full hydro? Then I remembered this is an overland rig and will need to be street legal.
Dave G I live in California and I’ve daily driven my truck with the hydro steering for the last 3 1/2 years. It’s a big misconception that hydro is illegal.
It drives no different than regular mechanical steering. It even self centers when exiting a turn just as long as you have the proper caster set up.
@@stevej6824 Well maybe that's ok for Commiefornia but nationwide? If it was fully legal I would think that there would be an OEM vehicle with full hydro.
Dave G I know that there’s some big heavy equipment vehicles made by Oshkosh that are road legal and run full hydro steering.
But if you’re worried about any legality issues the next best thing is hydro assist.
You retain all your mechanical linkage, there’s just a small hydro cylinder that assists with the steering. It’s the best of both worlds and it’s about 1/2 the cost of running full hydro.
@@stevej6824 Hydro assist is definitely on my to do list!
Saludos desde México 🤟🤟
Love the video man. Question; What would be the best way to eliminate the need for a drop pitman arm? For reference, 4 inch lift on OBS Ford with twin I-beam suspension.
How did you determine your up travel? Is there a way you chose 5 inches? As always great stuff!!
Reverse Polarity welders can fry ecu.
What are you doing to protect your heims on a rig that will see a lot of highway miles?
Nothing. Just replacement when the time comes 👍
Great Video as always. If you use Hydro Assist steering, does that relieve pressure on your drop pitman arm?
The other benefit to mounting the hiem joint vertical is that you are less likely to run out of misalignment if you are running big down travel. I had to bend my drag link to allow full down travel. Are you going to be doing anything to combat the tie rod roll from having a bent tie rod and hiem joints?
My only plan is to tighten them in a way that keeps them straight. This is all I've ever done in this instance with no issues to report
@@DirtLifestyle I see what you are saying. Good idea. I think I'll have to try that with mine. I actually made plastic washers to put underneath my Tie rod hiems. That helped some
Hey Nate! I’m in the market for a tube bender (most likely JD2) but as I’m sure you know the dies are pretty pricy when considering the price of the bender itself isn’t cheap. My budget only really allows for one bending die at the moment. What size die would you recommend I go with for building roll cages, bumpers, tire carriers etc? In other words what’s the most versatile tube size for those applications? Love the videos man!
The most common size is 1 3/4" 👍
I forgot to ask you, how hard are gears to put in on the 30 & 8.25. My XJ could use lower ones but I'm a painter (auto, airbrush & Binks) don't want to get in over my head 😵 and I know you do all that stuff so I thought I'd ask. Thanks for your time brother.
Gears are very time consuming and expensive to install. The install tools are expensive and so is the labor if you pay to have it done. I wouldn't touch it unless you have done a ton of homework first 👍
@@DirtLifestyle Good to know... I was afraid of that but the guys here keep saying "Aw,it can't be that hard" & I knew you'd know. Well that makes up my mind for me... not going to touch it....lol 😁👍
Thanks again brother
I like your solution, but I’m curious about hydro assist? Won’t that fix the stress problem? Which solution is easier to do?
Test fitting after throwing 20lbs of weld in it😁😁
Interesting how you rotated the rose joint on your droparm, does the joint have enough movement to account for full steering lock at bump and droop?
Would be interesting to see it being cycled and how it all works out.
It should have just enough! Unfortunately i can't test it until the discovery is on the new suspension and I can remove these giant jack stands 👍
@@DirtLifestyle fingers crossed for you!
Those high strength demand components are forged, not cast. Quite a difference in material characteristics.
Yes
Oh, by the way, the pitman arm is drop-forged.. not sandcast or sand-casted.. I kindly mention... nice work Sir.. Does the heim joint in that orientation offer full range, as per, steering lock to lock.. The steering knuckles have a typical range of (right lock to left lock) of about 75 to 90 degrees (pending the steering stops adjustment)... and a heim joint with misalignment spacers will just start to max out at 65 to 80(pending the brand/manufacturer/size) ... Please note, I am not trying to sound overly critical, just curious. I do understand the way the nut and bolt in the pitman arm being vertical with added misalignment spacers consumes allot space, while not offering the double shear principals like what you have incorporated... which is clever, by the way.. I think more over, I am just getting excited, and desire to know more, and know I will have to wait for the future videos, that will show all of these details, as the program moves along... So, with that said, I will shut up, and just hold my horses, and wait like everybody else... LOL... I am an idiot.. I just now realized that... Okay, no I didn't just realize that, I have known for a long time I am an idiot.. I just don't declare it publicly that I am an idiot.. Okay, I need to stop typing know... or at least, maybe hit the "backspace key" a few hundred times... LOL... I am going away now... LOL where is my rock at...
Hi nate I have a 00 TJ. I'm looking at rock sliders. What would be better frame mount or body mount sliders?
Both are strong if built right. I don't have a preference
That was my work of art
Hey mate, loving the build so far. Thoughts on a sector shaft brace? What your experience with em?
The sector shaft brace is a great idea and if implemented correctly, it can definitely add a ton of strength. But the real fix is to get your pan hard bar and drag link to match by moving the location of the pan hard bracket, not the pitman arm. The stock pitman arm is best if you can get it to work 👍
@@DirtLifestyle yep perfect 🤘 Rocking nice and flat with the bars on my JK. Installed a Synergy sector shaft brace and bracket and def seemed tighter. Keep up the great quality of vids mate 👍
To bad you can not put a bearing on the shaft on gear box under pit arm for more strength
Looked a Discovery 2 with 240,000 miles on it for $2500 heard they had head gasket issues. Not sure if it’s for me or not. Got a Honda Pilot 4x4 and a 05 ram 1500 4x4 considered getting lockers for the front of the ram but they don’t make them for the light duty independent suspensions
There nice rigs just get it cheap and ls swap it there motors are junk
Great stuff as always. I have a question. In your opinion, is there ever a point where the goal suspension height is not worth doing a long arm suspension? I'm thinking LJ since its what I'm building. I dont have a lot of lift, and dont intend to go very high. 2" or so, and then work up into the body rather than raising the suspension. Is there any reason I should steer away from a 3-link/4-link? The benefits seem worth the work, and I cant see a reason not to do it, even for such little suspension lift. Am i missing something? Thanks!
Can you do more videos on the tdi engine?
I will but not anytime soon
Just curious. Would it help to move the axel forward some to clear the tie rod at the pitman arm? Or is that not an option for other reasons?
Hey Nate, good stuff as usual. I'm in the south sound myself and wondering where you get metal at? I was thinking about Metal Supermarket in Kent, but wondering if there's a better place.
Interwest metals/Floyd's in Fife on Puyallup Ave is a good place. Used to be better because it had A ton of scrap to pick from, but still good in my opinion.
@@snicklefritzd3612, I went down there this morning and they were great!! Awesome guys and really laid back. Thank you for the suggestion 🍺🍺
@@WeekendWrenchTurner no problems man
@@WeekendWrenchTurner I am glad that was a good suggestion for ya.
How much rotational movement did you lose by rotating the heim joint 90 degrees?
It has the appearance of reduced steering angles.
My truck has a pretty decent drop pitman on it now, about 8"-9" 😬. The bumpsteer is still atrocious and it's hokey as all fuck so I'm gonna have to go hydro. Sometimes you gotta go expensive. 🤷
How confident would you be in welding lower control arm tabs to cast steel? As in cast wedge dana 44 ford, doing 3 link instead of factory radius
I've welded on Danas before, went about the same as welding on a frame rail. Nothing exciting happened.
@@gittyupalice96 I ended up doing it! I am a very skilled welder myself and I decided to do it. I know it’s able to be mig welded but I have a tig at my disposal so I heated up the wedges just for penetration reasons and not sucking the heat away so fast from the weld area. I used a higher grade of a mild steel rod (forget the number specifically) and it welded like butter. I have been beating the shit out of it under my xj on 37s for about 6 months now.
You sure you want that weld just outside the tie rod end almost perfectly in line with the load path from the pitman arm? Seems like a crack can propagate right along that weld on top...
Yes. Very sure
I have just completed a 1 ton swap in my 2dr jk. I used the same super 60 front axles with the Barnes truss kit and high steer kit. I have now noticed that the turning radius is far off from stock. Is there any way I can correct it?
ruclips.net/video/96PdbokHG2I/видео.html
You need to confirm that the swing of your pitman arm is the same as your steering knuckle. I touch on that concept briefly in this video. Good luck 👍
I’m not arguing but I’ve tried welding mild steel onto cast and it snapped right off. Wonder why your the pro.
love the channel just wish would slow down a tad and explain while workin instead so much music n b-roll but heh edits r superb bigtime . dont be scared to show ur human n make mistakes :) im in tacoma near pt defiance
Mr. Pickel, do you have any thoughts on closed knuckle vs open knuckle front axles?
I do not. Closed knuckle axles are rare in the USA (comparatively) and pretty much only come in toyotas here. Or we are talking really old dana axles like 1960s and earlier. My experience is limited so I don't have an opinion 👍
@@DirtLifestyle thanks! I'm using an old 8lug dana 44 from a 60's chevy.
Why would you need more than five shocks?
I got thinking about a steering spindle issue I had on a large truck years ago ( the bearing spun but oddly enough it deposited metal rather then wearing the spindle material ) and the shop I took the spindle to scratched their heads over it and were so tempted to put it in their lathe and lightly machine off the excess material but decided it was not worth the risk if anything ever went wrong with the steering and could come back on them liability wise. Although i am using this as an example the gist of it was that be it this or anything to do with welding/heating to straighten/modifying etc on anything steering related that went on the highway, the average shop won't touch it because they deem it "illegal" because the good ole Government tells them so. So my question is where is the so called line drawn for modifications to a factory component or making ones own parts and what does DOT etc have to say about it. Even a drop down pitman arm that you point out could create total loss in steering because it could snap the sector shaft right off from a box that was never intended to have that stress applied, I can imagine the finger pointing and no doubt the manufacturer of the pitman arm could be on the hot seat. Anyway I am not trying to cause a riff over this but just curious what your view point is and expect such rules would vary a lot by country around the world. Obviously government vs common sense logic are two vastly different things !
This is my take if you do it yourself you are liable if something breaks. So do it at your own risk if you are competent enough welding/fabricating go for it BUT if it breaks YOU are Responsible!
@@ypop417 I expect that would be correct and why some shops will shy away from certain repairs and in fact I know on commercial trucks where I am anyway on other aspects of the truck and for example welding to fabricate a new mount for a fifth wheel plate, if the shop doesn't happen to have a certified welder on staff and they don't feel like paying the dollars to bring a guy in with his mobile unit to do a project they just won't accept that job. I expect that true off road only builds ( trailered units ) are much easier to deal with as a person is sort of flying under the radar although still need a license plate to drive on public lands.
my replacement pitman arm from a parts store said "not for road use" right in the disclaimer!
Hey. Thank you for all the information.I NEED HELP!!!. I have a 91 yj 4.3 Cheavy V6. Sm420 tranny . 8.8.Ford rear. 35 tires.. Crappy Dana 30 in the front . first I broke the short disconnecting axle. The copied Matt. And installed a Cherokee land pax. Side axle. Broke both in the universal joint area.What do you suggest.Quadratec want $400+ for the disconnect axle. I don't do rock crawling.Must trails in my land here on south central TN. I know someone that has several International Scouts. Help.
Disconnecting the battery is normally to protect the electronics from huge voltage spikes that could fry stuff on the 5v circuits etc... I think most of us get away with it though lol
I feel like this is an old wifes tale. Once again I'm not married to my ideas but I have yet to hear a good argument for how the current would travel through your electronics unless you ground directly to them. If a big spike in voltages could fry sensors or an ECU then starters and Winches would burn them up none stop. I am however very open to the idea if someone could explain the mechanism behind this idea. 👍
@@DirtLifestyle I guess it's based on something, and probably more of an issue if the ground clamp is the opposite end of the vehicle rather than next to the work area.
When you gonna make progress on the tdi ultimate power project?
Like I say in the video this is going to be a slow project. I'd like to shoot the next episode after trail to sema at some point. 👍
@@DirtLifestyle I like the builds, and selection of parts. Keep up the great work!
Question - not that I would do this myself but just from an engineering standpoint I am curious if instead of making the pitman arm Tangled what if like a stack of Dimes and it just stack some short pieces of iron and welded them together and then had the last piece come forward with panhard bar connection? Would that reduce the stress on the shaft? Because then it's not grabbing an angle it has essentially almost extended the shaft if you will. If you do not understand what I mean please ask because this is the kind of stuff I love when it comes to cars and trucks. And damn it is raining! I rabbit convertible is getting wet! I need to pull the carpet and spray the floors with bed liner and drill some drain holes. I also need to make custom vinyl seat covers so that I could essentially hose out the interior just like an old CJ! I'm going to do something to my Volkswagen to cross breeded with a Jeep just like I have added some Volkswagen stuff to my ZJ. You'd be surprised how similar the niche market for Jeeps and Volkswagens are. At least real Chiefs and real Volkswagens, the older stuff. Both utilitarian Vehicles just built for different purposes. An old water cooled Volkswagen is very light and handles on Rails and doesn't need a lot of power to go faster than a lot of cars worth two or three times the money. and just like Jeeps you can snag parts from bigger better and newer models I'm slapping on the older smaller slower stuff. And although they are both very simple they both do their jobs very well. And let's face it, an SUV with four-wheel coil spring is pretty badass even today. And so is a little teeny rabbit convertible that looks like the girliest car in the world handling like a Porsche and running with C5 ZO6 with a little 2.0l 16-valve turbo motor putting out over 300 foot pounds. kind of makes me want to turbo my 4L, but I think a 4.2 L Stroker opened up to breathe would be more appropriate. I do not want to sacrifice throttle response off roads. and I know no one will read all of this but what the hell I guess this is what you do when you have no friends LOL
Do they make a full hydro system? Sorta like what the monster truck community uses? 🤔
Does who make?
Dirt Lifestyle you know the hydro steering people! 😂
Correction: Pitman and radius arms are forged steel and not cast steel as you mentioned.
Yep
John, I agree I am pretty sure all OEM ones are. There are some real junk aftermarket ones that may be cast or very bad forgings. I have witnessed them breaking in half with no warning.
Don't be surprised if you see your pitman arm on a peyronie's disease commercial Nate.