This guide is great, today I was able to take out the front motor Mount without having to take off the radiator fans. You have get a good jack, the car has to be high off the ground. I used no lift but had to use an impact to get the bolts out. It is possible for anybody wondering to do the mounts without taking off the fan.
This guide is great for those who want to know how to replace this mount on the ground using jack stands. I used a different method by having the car in the air on a lift and I was doing all 4 mounts at the same time as well as replacing both cv axles. So my car was pretty much torn all the way down. I didn't want to drain the coolant so I didn't remove the cooling fans This front one and the rear one are the biggest pita, but I was able to them both without subframe removal or even dropping the exhaust To make this possible remove both cv axles and support the drivetrain with a pole jack under the trans and remove the trans mount first, then go for your front and rear mounts. Do the passenger mount last! I took all of the bolts out of the front one and started work on the rear, there's 3 brackets attached to this guy with 10mm bolts holding 2 of them to the mount and 12mm for the other one, then take the 2 bolts loose and out that you can (the bottom bolt is the one people say to cut and replace, eff that) now with both mounts fully loosened you are able to move the drivetrain to suit your needs to do the actual hard part now, removing and reinstalling the mounts. Jack the drivetrain all the way you safely can and then I used a hydraulic ram to move the drivetrain how I wanted it placed in between the body of the car and the back of the trans to allow room to remove the front mount, and the rear. I only had enough movement once the front one was out to snake the rear one out. Then reverse your process. There's a jigsaw puzzle and perfect way the will come out and go in. Good luck. It's not easy and not fun even with a lift doing all 4 took me a full weekend
I have a 2004 Nissan Quest S minivan. I have watched a lot of auto repair videos over the years to repair many of my vehicles. "dial2fast" is by far the best or one of best videos on car repair I have ever seen. The photography is clear, the lighting is excellent, the angles are perfect, the sound is understandable and his explanations and comments are professional/intelligent and spot-on. Please keep up the good work. You are an asset and very much needed. You give hope to the DIYer to save money and feel pride in a job well done. Thanks.
Just wanted to say thanks very much for this very helpful and informative video. Needed to replace the front engine mount on my 02 Maxima, first time ever tacking a motor mount and this video helped immensely. Only issue I had was getting the bottom bolts loose to pull the old mount- they were really stuck on there and I didn't have an impact gun and had to use a breaker bar in concert with a box wrench and hammer. :D Eventually got it!
Lol thank you so much! I am absolute crappy brainless when it comes to engines and such... every engineer super booked tf out so I was left with no choice haha This guide helped me soooo much as a beginner. Also the comment section! Thank you 😊
Excellent job making this video. You were clear, precise and didn't skip any steps from start to finish. This made it so much easier to replace the motor mount on my 2003 Nissan Murano. Thank you.
I swapped my electronic mounts for the non electronic mounts. It works fine, you'll just get a little bit of vibration and nvh in cabin when sitting still with your foot on the brake in D.
Great video, thank you it will definitely come in handy. I know it's an old video, but I'd like to say that you should have drained the radiator partially before pulling the hose. If I had discovered that my mechanic had pulled the hose and leaked coolant over half my engine bay and fans I'd be pretty furious to say the least.
Nice video, i just replaced the rear mount on an 08 maxima by the firewall it was 8 hours of swearing snd frustration but i got it done, pretty sure they drop the entire subframe in a shop cause there is no space back there
I'd like to see you replace the timing chain tensioner and the guide on a 03/ 3.5 niss altima the way you do vids it would be a excellent vid for training
I'm pretty sure you did this the long way. I've seen guys do this exact job on this exact car without touching a single item on top. They work the whole job from underneath. There's more shimmying and fenagaling to get the mount out, but still much faster. Much. I'm talking like a 4 minute video.
The 6th gen Maximas like the one the video shows may be a little different since the motor is transversely mounted. On my 5th gen 02 the 3.5 is longitudinally mounted and it would have been very very tough to get that mount out from underneath without at least removing the radiator fan housing as described in the video. That said, that was the only thing I had to remove- I did not have to remove the battery tray, air intake, etc.
Question: At 11:50 the screw that you installed, do you know the size or the name of THAT screw? I have a 2014 Nissan Maxima and the long screw that fits in my engine or torque mount came out and my car run really rough onky while in drive.
I checked the service manual and there is no name or part number for that bolt. Your best bet is to go to your Nissan service department, give them your VIN number, and ask them to look it up and find the exact bolt you need. Note: don't ask the service department, but go to the parts department.
Please note that the Nissan Maxima and Nissan Altima with the V6 engines are about 99% similar to this procedure. So if you have a 3.0L or 3.5L V6 FWD Nissan, the steps are very similar.
nice work. I have a bad mount too and on my 03 Murano at 155k miles. I hear the stepper motor coming to a stop a light, sounds like a leaky water faucet. Are the 2 side mounts also electronically controlled?
I am swapping a front mount on a Murano and there is a 4 inch square box mounted to the frame that is blocking the front bolt from coming out. The bolts on that box are on so tight they are rounding and not coming off. Do you know what that box is? there are no connectors to it, it seems like a dampner possibly.
It gives a jerk when i accelerate and it jerks when i put it in reverse .i dont know which motor mount it is ?? Do you know. I like your video also very helpful
I pay to the Mechanic 400!! to change all them but I see he don't put the sensor electronic in the front you think is going to be problem in the future?
The electronic mount is to stiffen the mount above 1000rpm. It just makes the car smoother. Without it, you can still drive it but not sure if it will throw an engine code.
Thank you for this video, I already did the front but I still feel the vibration, is the rear motor mount have electronic wire also? I appreciate very much if you could make video for the rear mount. You help me a lot. thanks.
If your front is electronic one, then the back is also electronic. I took a look at the back and seems like a pain in the butt to do with a jack at home. Some people say you might need to cut off a bolt to get the old one out. Also once I replaced the right, and front mount, it drove like new again. So I am holding out on doing the back.
If you still feel the vibration, it is very likely that your car's rear, left, and right mounts have to replaced. Especially pay attention on the rear mount.
+George Gardinier Thanks for the comment George. With the battery out, I did look at the left mount and there is a small crack. The back one also has a crack. I am not sure when I will get to those right now. I did swap the right side that same day, and will have that video up by tonight. But with the two swapped, the car drives much better already.
I am confused. My mechanic told me the one on the passenger side is the front engine mount because of the layout of the engine, but I heard people call it the right engine mount. So who is correct? And what about the one near the radiator? Is it the front or the left? Thank you in advance.
I just replaced the front motor mount on my 05 nissan quest. It was a pain getting the mount in and out. I had to jack up the engine until it met the frame. Now when I give it gas I feel a bump bump bump. Could the jacking up of the motor cause the other mounts to break
Park the car, open the hood, start the engine, have someone in your rev the engine several times, you look/hear in the engine bay to find out where the noise is coming from.
No videos on those at this time. I checked the rear mount on my van and it actually looks good. Seems the make wear on these mounts is the front and passenger side. I did look into the steps in changing the rear mount and it's a total pain is you are trying to do it with jack stands. Think you have to cut off one of the bolt to remove the old one.
Easier to lower down the exhaust system and remove the rear catalytic converter. Then there is plenty of space to remove bolts and replace the mount. No need to cut bolts. And I guess it wouldn't be easy to get those bolts if you cut them. No need to have jack stands. I did this job for my 2003 Murano with RhinoRamps, and used a simple scissor jack to lift up the engine.
I followed all these steps and got it done, great video! but after this my engine shakes even worse then before, so bad that I can't currently drive the car. anyone experience this issue or know what it can be? I also had a burning smell, did I damage engine/tyranny by jacking it up? first thing I noticed getting back in car is no movement in gear without giving it gas.
Sorry not sure, but just call up your local dealer service dept, and ask them, they will have a price as this is pretty standard service on the Nissan.
I have since sold the car so will not have a vid on it. But from my research back in the day, that rear one is a complete pain, as one of the bolt needs to be cut off to get the mount out. Also without a hoist, it's very limited space.
Great videos. I been watching most of your videos and very appriciated for sharing. Today replaced control arms of 2004 Quest with your step by step helpful videos. I just wanted to thank you for sharing Sir.... My next projects will be tie rod inner and outer. Also, All 4 of those motor mounts. Your videos will guide me through it. BTW, Would you mind tell us where the Rear and Driverside mounts are? I couldn't found any info about these from youtube yet except your front and rightside motor mounts. We'll be very appricated if you spend sometime and share those info for us..Thank you Sir..
When I was younger, for sure. Now with some more experience, tons of internet references, and RUclips DIY videos, I rarely feel lost. When I get to something that looks troublesome to get back together, I take some pictures and be sure to mark which fastener goes where. Just start on jobs you feel comfortable with and work your way up. If you have some apprehension about a specific job, watch a bunch of videos from different people and see if that helps. It may just be a job where you say "nope" and pay someone to do it, but at least you will know exactly what you are paying for.
Bad engine mounts typically causes vibration or shaking when accelerating or shakes when going over bumps on the road. There are 4 on this vehicle, so you can choose to replace whichever one is worn out.
I need to do both the front and rear mounts on my 2002 Altima V6. Your thorough method (great step by step video, BTW) may work for the front mount, but I see no real way to do something similar for the back mount. I've read about "removing a crossmember", similar to what the mechanics do in ruclips.net/video/YhdPUcVps54/видео.html on a Nissan Quest. Is there a way to do that on our model - dropping down the mounts on the frame from the bottom?
Nicely done informative Video. Must say though that there is NO way that I would buy a Nissan product .. based on the Service requirement for Engine Mounts for Gawds sake and the Massive Hourly toll this takes. Before even getting to the usurious parts price. Clearly a Grade B automobile Small wonder Nissan is dying.
100% Agree..I worked on all Honda cars. I just got a 2005 Nissan Quest from my friend. Worked on replacing spark plugs then I conclude Nissan cars has stupid design with no maintenance in mind..Now I see this video THEN... In addition Parts are SO expensive... I just paid $20 for a small Blowby hose from manifoil to Air Boot duct..$750 for Throttle body.. sensors $80 NO way to buy Nissan cars in my life.
@@ddn488 Plenty of good quality aftermarket parts available that don't cost anywhere near what you paid, plus Hondas are just as notorious for their OEM parts being outrageously expensive. Yes most Nissans after 2000 were designed with service dept profit in mind-- replacing the bank 1 spark plugs on my 02 Maxima requires removing the upper intake. (That was not the case on my 99 Maxima which BTW went 400k miles and was still running like a top when I sold it.) That said, my niece's 2013 Honda Fit requires removing the windshield cowling just to get to the spark plugs. SO it's not just Nissan.
Why you need to remove battery? And why messing with cooling fan, just remove entire radiator with cooling fan attached, drain the coolant first, from the bottom.
From the research I did online, the rear mount is a complete pain in the butt if you are doing it with jack stands. It requires cutting off a bolt to get the mount off, and you have very limited space. I did not change mine.
yes if you've got a lift to put the car on. NOT true if you're doing it in the driveway with jack stands. WAY less room from beneath, much easier to do it the way the video shows.
This guide is great, today I was able to take out the front motor Mount without having to take off the radiator fans. You have get a good jack, the car has to be high off the ground. I used no lift but had to use an impact to get the bolts out. It is possible for anybody wondering to do the mounts without taking off the fan.
This guide is great for those who want to know how to replace this mount on the ground using jack stands.
I used a different method by having the car in the air on a lift and I was doing all 4 mounts at the same time as well as replacing both cv axles. So my car was pretty much torn all the way down. I didn't want to drain the coolant so I didn't remove the cooling fans
This front one and the rear one are the biggest pita, but I was able to them both without subframe removal or even dropping the exhaust
To make this possible remove both cv axles and support the drivetrain with a pole jack under the trans and remove the trans mount first, then go for your front and rear mounts. Do the passenger mount last! I took all of the bolts out of the front one and started work on the rear, there's 3 brackets attached to this guy with 10mm bolts holding 2 of them to the mount and 12mm for the other one, then take the 2 bolts loose and out that you can (the bottom bolt is the one people say to cut and replace, eff that) now with both mounts fully loosened you are able to move the drivetrain to suit your needs to do the actual hard part now, removing and reinstalling the mounts.
Jack the drivetrain all the way you safely can and then I used a hydraulic ram to move the drivetrain how I wanted it placed in between the body of the car and the back of the trans to allow room to remove the front mount, and the rear. I only had enough movement once the front one was out to snake the rear one out. Then reverse your process. There's a jigsaw puzzle and perfect way the will come out and go in. Good luck.
It's not easy and not fun even with a lift doing all 4 took me a full weekend
I have a 2004 Nissan Quest S minivan. I have watched a lot of auto repair videos over the years to repair many of my vehicles. "dial2fast" is by far the best or one of best videos on car repair I have ever seen. The photography is clear, the lighting is excellent, the angles are perfect, the sound is understandable and his explanations and comments are professional/intelligent and spot-on. Please keep up the good work. You are an asset and very much needed. You give hope to the DIYer to save money and feel pride in a job well done. Thanks.
Really appreciate you taking the time to write such an encouraging comment. Thank you and glad to have been able to help. Cheers!
Very disciplined professional. A very clean job and well executed. Well organized with clear precise instructions.
Thanks for your comment!
Just wanted to say thanks very much for this very helpful and informative video. Needed to replace the front engine mount on my 02 Maxima, first time ever tacking a motor mount and this video helped immensely. Only issue I had was getting the bottom bolts loose to pull the old mount- they were really stuck on there and I didn't have an impact gun and had to use a breaker bar in concert with a box wrench and hammer. :D Eventually got it!
Lol thank you so much! I am absolute crappy brainless when it comes to engines and such... every engineer super booked tf out so I was left with no choice haha This guide helped me soooo much as a beginner. Also the comment section! Thank you 😊
Great job on the how to. Your pretty much the only one with a video on this particular vehicle with the front mount replacement tutorial. Thank you!
Excellent job making this video. You were clear, precise and didn't skip any steps from start to finish. This made it so much easier to replace the motor mount on my 2003 Nissan Murano. Thank you.
I just subscribed because I've watched several of your videos now. All are very well produced videos and equally as helpful. Thanks for your work
It was eazy thanks for the guide , the only thing missing in the video is that you have to refill the coolant and bleed the system.
I swapped my electronic mounts for the non electronic mounts. It works fine, you'll just get a little bit of vibration and nvh in cabin when sitting still with your foot on the brake in D.
Did it have any major changes
I just paid to have this done and after watching the video sure glad I did
bwahahaha no kidding!
😆
Great video, thank you it will definitely come in handy.
I know it's an old video, but I'd like to say that you should have drained the radiator partially before pulling the hose.
If I had discovered that my mechanic had pulled the hose and leaked coolant over half my engine bay and fans I'd be pretty furious to say the least.
Another great video. greaat camera work and editing! Thanks!!
Great video does the rear motor mount for a2005 nissan maxima have a wire attack to it
Nice video, i just replaced the rear mount on an 08 maxima by the firewall it was 8 hours of swearing snd frustration but i got it done, pretty sure they drop the entire subframe in a shop cause there is no space back there
If you remove the rear catalytic converter, you get plenty of space for the rear mount replacement.
I'd like to see you replace the timing chain tensioner and the guide on a 03/ 3.5 niss altima the way you do vids it would be a excellent vid for training
I'm pretty sure you did this the long way. I've seen guys do this exact job on this exact car without touching a single item on top. They work the whole job from underneath. There's more shimmying and fenagaling to get the mount out, but still much faster. Much. I'm talking like a 4 minute video.
The 6th gen Maximas like the one the video shows may be a little different since the motor is transversely mounted. On my 5th gen 02 the 3.5 is longitudinally mounted and it would have been very very tough to get that mount out from underneath without at least removing the radiator fan housing as described in the video. That said, that was the only thing I had to remove- I did not have to remove the battery tray, air intake, etc.
Excellent video.... I enjoy watching your videos. Hopefully soon you replace the other 3 engine mounts.
Thanks for your comment!
Your video is Fantastic....thank you !!!
Hi sr good job.. but my cuestion is why you thank of battery out and of tray. And the air intake box out. ??
I'm about to do the front and right Motor Mounts myself on My 2003 Nissan Altima SE 3.5L. Which one do I do first??
That was pretty understandable.. now I can my part. Thanks for the info
Question:
At 11:50 the screw that you installed, do you know the size or the name of THAT screw?
I have a 2014 Nissan Maxima and the long screw that fits in my engine or torque mount came out and my car run really rough onky while in drive.
I checked the service manual and there is no name or part number for that bolt. Your best bet is to go to your Nissan service department, give them your VIN number, and ask them to look it up and find the exact bolt you need. Note: don't ask the service department, but go to the parts department.
Nice work, sir!! I've done this job many years ago and time to do it again. Very helpful video. Cheers.
Thanks for your comment!
Do you recommend replacing all motor mounts or just the bad one? And what is a fair labor charge not a shop from local mechanic? Thanx
This video taught me that I should have never asked the repair shop to re-connect an engine mount on my 2001 Nissan Maxima with 326,000 miles. :P
Av3ryFr33m4n what happened?
Please note that the Nissan Maxima and Nissan Altima with the V6 engines are about 99% similar to this procedure. So if you have a 3.0L or 3.5L V6 FWD Nissan, the steps are very similar.
The same for Murano
nice work. I have a bad mount too and on my 03 Murano at 155k miles. I hear the stepper motor coming to a stop a light, sounds like a leaky water faucet. Are the 2 side mounts also electronically controlled?
Side mounts are not electronic
I am swapping a front mount on a Murano and there is a 4 inch square box mounted to the frame that is blocking the front bolt from coming out. The bolts on that box are on so tight they are rounding and not coming off. Do you know what that box is? there are no connectors to it, it seems like a dampner possibly.
nice job! top off only use the Nissan "blue" anti-freeze!
Doesn't matter
nismoman420 the prestone Prime is a better choice.
this is "low" silicate formula.
how about the power steering pressure line, have you replaced that before?
Sam Barber the high pressure return line is a tough job. But its doable. Just not much work space. VERY tight
Firestone had to replace mine after they busted it and blamed me
It gives a jerk when i accelerate and it jerks when i put it in reverse .i dont know which motor mount it is ?? Do you know. I like your video also very helpful
Good job. Very clear. You make it look easy. Thanks
Thanks for your comment!
well done job on your video the presentation was very professional ! Thanks now I'm ready to do the job on my quest
Thanks for your comment!
another great guide! is there a way i can know what was the black extension you used with the torque wrench?
+Zain Abidin To do this job, I used a lot of extensions, but mostly 1/2" and 3/8" extensions.
I pay to the Mechanic 400!! to change all them but I see he don't put the sensor electronic in the front you think is going to be problem in the future?
The electronic mount is to stiffen the mount above 1000rpm. It just makes the car smoother. Without it, you can still drive it but not sure if it will throw an engine code.
+Arturo Tobar Same question!! Local parts store were selling after market parts without the wiring. Did you get a code?
If you put this car on a lift you can replace the front engine mount much easier. Also don't need to remove any other components.
Thank you for this video, I already did the front but I still feel the vibration, is the rear motor mount have electronic wire also? I appreciate very much if you could make video for the rear mount. You help me a lot. thanks.
If your front is electronic one, then the back is also electronic. I took a look at the back and seems like a pain in the butt to do with a jack at home. Some people say you might need to cut off a bolt to get the old one out. Also once I replaced the right, and front mount, it drove like new again. So I am holding out on doing the back.
If you still feel the vibration, it is very likely that your car's rear, left, and right mounts have to replaced. Especially pay attention on the rear mount.
Great video as usual. Did you remove your hood for the video?
Nope, did not remove the hood.
Where do i put the floor jack at to adjust the engine up and down ???? Please get back to me
that was great, did you look at the others to see when they will be needed to be changed. i remember when you first started, this was extremely good
+George Gardinier Thanks for the comment George. With the battery out, I did look at the left mount and there is a small crack. The back one also has a crack. I am not sure when I will get to those right now. I did swap the right side that same day, and will have that video up by tonight. But with the two swapped, the car drives much better already.
Great video
When replacing all motor mounts, which one should I replace first?
If they are cracked, you should replace all of them. On the Nissan, the front and side ones are the easier one. You can start with those 2.
any videos on replacing the radiator?
What If I change it with one without the sensor?
It will work without the sensor.
Great video, how long did each mount take?
I had to film it so it takes much longer, but for most people should be around 2 hours.
I am confused. My mechanic told me the one on the passenger side is the front engine mount because of the layout of the engine, but I heard people call it the right engine mount. So who is correct? And what about the one near the radiator? Is it the front or the left? Thank you in advance.
have you had to replace the transmission mount?
Great vid, I need to do mine and this is very helpful. What is the little power ratchet you use? Seems like a decent tool.
it's a very old Skil 1/4" rechargeable ratchet. There may be other choices out there now.
I just replaced the front motor mount on my 05 nissan quest. It was a pain getting the mount in and out. I had to jack up the engine until it met the frame. Now when I give it gas I feel a bump bump bump. Could the jacking up of the motor cause the other mounts to break
Park the car, open the hood, start the engine, have someone in your rev the engine several times, you look/hear in the engine bay to find out where the noise is coming from.
Did you got any code or light?
Couse i took mine to the shop and said whats cousing the noise is this same mount.
No trouble code before or after replacement.
@@dial2fast thank you 👍
do you have any videos for the left and rear engine mounts?
No videos on those at this time. I checked the rear mount on my van and it actually looks good. Seems the
make wear on these mounts is the front and passenger side. I did look
into the steps in changing the rear mount and it's a total pain is you
are trying to do it with jack stands. Think you have to cut off one of
the bolt to remove the old one.
Easier to lower down the exhaust system and remove the rear catalytic converter. Then there is plenty of space to remove bolts and replace the mount. No need to cut bolts. And I guess it wouldn't be easy to get those bolts if you cut them. No need to have jack stands. I did this job for my 2003 Murano with RhinoRamps, and used a simple scissor jack to lift up the engine.
@@rokaskundrotas4805 Do you have video on this
I followed all these steps and got it done, great video! but after this my engine shakes even worse then before, so bad that I can't currently drive the car. anyone experience this issue or know what it can be? I also had a burning smell, did I damage engine/tyranny by jacking it up? first thing I noticed getting back in car is no movement in gear without giving it gas.
pgwar22 did you plug the harness back into the mount?
How much that would that cost to take to a shop and do?
what would be a good rough cost to replace all motor mounts? vs just right or center or left one?
Sorry not sure, but just call up your local dealer service dept, and ask them, they will have a price as this is pretty standard service on the Nissan.
How much would this cost for each mount?
I like to know when you will try to replace the rear motor mount?
I have since sold the car so will not have a vid on it. But from my research back in the day, that rear one is a complete pain, as one of the bolt needs to be cut off to get the mount out. Also without a hoist, it's very limited space.
Is this the same for a 2008 Maxima?
The steps should be very similar if not the same. You can take a look at your car.
Great videos. I been watching most of your videos and very appriciated for sharing.
Today replaced control arms of 2004 Quest with your step by step helpful videos.
I just wanted to thank you for sharing Sir....
My next projects will be tie rod inner and outer. Also, All 4 of those motor mounts.
Your videos will guide me through it. BTW, Would you mind tell us where the Rear and Driverside mounts are? I couldn't found any info about these from youtube yet except your front and rightside motor mounts. We'll be very appricated if you spend sometime and share those info for us..Thank you Sir..
great vid good job!
Thanks for your comment!
Awesome job!!
Thanks for your comment!
Dont y’all ever get anxiety taking so many parts out of the car
When I was younger, for sure. Now with some more experience, tons of internet references, and RUclips DIY videos, I rarely feel lost. When I get to something that looks troublesome to get back together, I take some pictures and be sure to mark which fastener goes where. Just start on jobs you feel comfortable with and work your way up. If you have some apprehension about a specific job, watch a bunch of videos from different people and see if that helps. It may just be a job where you say "nope" and pay someone to do it, but at least you will know exactly what you are paying for.
nope
It seems like anything that you need to fix on the Quest forces you to take almost the entire front part of the vehicle apart to reach it.
Thank god I have a Maxima so much Faster when it comes to the mount job
I just want to know what's the symptoms of replacing the tran mount
Bad engine mounts typically causes vibration or shaking when accelerating or shakes when going over bumps on the road. There are 4 on this vehicle, so you can choose to replace whichever one is worn out.
I don't get any code!
2013 Nissan Maxima 3.5 V6 Front Engine Mount Replacement - Complete Guide
como se Cambria el soporte de motor de atras
I need to do both the front and rear mounts on my 2002 Altima V6. Your thorough method (great step by step video, BTW) may work for the front mount, but I see no real way to do something similar for the back mount. I've read about "removing a crossmember", similar to what the mechanics do in ruclips.net/video/YhdPUcVps54/видео.html on a Nissan Quest. Is there a way to do that on our model - dropping down the mounts on the frame from the bottom?
Where is the transmission mount located at?
Driver's side between the shock tower and the car battery.
+dial2fast Is that mount also referred to as the rear mount or is that a different one?
+Ezeey Eric There are 4 mounts on this vehicle. The rear one is back underneath by the firewall which is a pain to get replaced.
+Ezeey Eric There are 4 mounts on this vehicle. The rear one is back underneath by the firewall which is a pain to get replaced.
+Ezeey Eric There are 4 mounts on this vehicle. The rear one is back underneath by the firewall which is a pain to get replaced.
Nothing was wrong with my mount. Decided to take the engine out and pulled that wire apart when removing the mount. That was an expensive mistake.
Nicely done informative Video. Must say though that there is NO way that I would buy a Nissan product .. based on the Service requirement for Engine Mounts for Gawds sake and the Massive Hourly toll this takes. Before even getting to the usurious parts price. Clearly a Grade B automobile
Small wonder Nissan is dying.
100% Agree..I worked on all Honda cars. I just got a 2005 Nissan Quest from my friend. Worked on replacing spark plugs then I conclude Nissan cars has stupid design with no maintenance in mind..Now I see this video THEN...
In addition Parts are SO expensive... I just paid $20 for a small Blowby hose from manifoil to Air Boot duct..$750 for Throttle body.. sensors $80
NO way to buy Nissan cars in my life.
Those bottom mounts are easier to do by dropping the crossmember.
@@ddn488 Plenty of good quality aftermarket parts available that don't cost anywhere near what you paid, plus Hondas are just as notorious for their OEM parts being outrageously expensive. Yes most Nissans after 2000 were designed with service dept profit in mind-- replacing the bank 1 spark plugs on my 02 Maxima requires removing the upper intake. (That was not the case on my 99 Maxima which BTW went 400k miles and was still running like a top when I sold it.) That said, my niece's 2013 Honda Fit requires removing the windshield cowling just to get to the spark plugs. SO it's not just Nissan.
on 99 Nissan maxima they are on of same place friend can u help me .thanks
Find me the rear one, all the good deals are on the front, side, and trans mounts 😔
Why you need to remove battery?
And why messing with cooling fan, just remove entire radiator with cooling fan attached, drain the coolant first, from the bottom.
what about the rear mount?
From the research I did online, the rear mount is a complete pain in the butt if you are doing it with jack stands. It requires cutting off a bolt to get the mount off, and you have very limited space. I did not change mine.
I don’t think it was necessary to take all the top parts
de Nissan quest 2004
you can get to them from under the car , way to much work buddy
yes if you've got a lift to put the car on. NOT true if you're doing it in the driveway with jack stands. WAY less room from beneath, much easier to do it the way the video shows.
I mean at least show us how she sounds after the new parts installed...
Vroom vroom...
It don’t work
Jesus wat to much diy