You are one hell of a straight forward and honest human being who wants to help from his heart with no Frills and bull let alone that wealth of experience not many have .Good man,I wish you all prosperity with whatever you desire .. AMEN
Great info on how to test mounts. I’d never seen that done before. I do all of my own work, except my wife’s car is still under warranty and I had to diagnose the driver side lower motor mount myself, they tried 3 times to find it. I told my wife that’s why I work on ALL my own equipment and have people like yourself to teach what I don’t know. One of my 3 favorite sayings is: (You don’t have to know everything but surround yourself with people that do!) Thanks
No throttle required. Love the approach from a different angle! Some said Albert Einstein's ideas started at the end and worked toward the beginning, opposite to everyone else. Thanks for the new trick/tool in my bag!
Dude thank you for this! I'm getting that same clunk when accelerating from a stop in reverse and drive, have had a heck of a time figuring out what it is after replacing other front end components(that all desperately needed to be replaced anyway.)
This is the exact thing that happened to my LS460. I would brake sharply and it would clunk. Then at hwy speeds when I would try to pass someone, it would shift hard, but only when it would downshift to pass another car. Replaced the trans mount and all symptoms were gone. Good informative video.
This is awesome! I think this is my problem, I thought it was my transmission. I would have a kick or clunk when it would change from 1st to 2nd gear and when I’d slow down to stop I’d feel a kick again but not everytime. Hopefully it’s my engine mounts.
I truly appreciate you sharing your automotive "wisdom" with the class...You honor our "Creator" and the people you care about by helping others through your teachings...How many smart ass, stupid comment writing "lesser-minded" beings can do the same? None...The only thing they have to share is "negative energy"...And who needs anymore of that?
I am not a mechanic, I am on here because I paid for clutch replacement that was done poorly. This video makes it clear how to diagnose bad motor mount using a two method technique.
I got the Trans Am to pass emissions -- turns out rotted rubber hoses on the evap line were leaking HC and being picked up by the sniffers at the emissions facility, causing a false positive. I'm happy! Thanks for all your videos, Matt. I've learned a lot.
Hello Matt, warm wishes from Scotland. Thank you for posting your videos, they are an invaluable help to me with my work. My watch later box is full of your posts. Keep up the great work.
Great technique! But I must add, most videos on RUclips have you power brake, not just go from drive to reverse. Power braking is also a great method, as ís yours Thanks for the content.
I usually "stall" the car. By pressing the brake firmly and adding enough throttle to tweak things. (This is while car is on the ground) that and drive to reverse with the addition of the brake stall. Also just briefly snapping (hit somewhat firmly but only briefly) the brake while rolling forward is it good way to spot control arm bushings. I can just feel it but you can feel the front slopping around or have someone watch it if possible in a pit ideally.
Another tip for anyone interested.... Sometimes mounts can fail another way that causes excessive vibration while engine running that can be felt in cab. Saw this a bunch with 4 cylinder Ford products with hydraulic oil filled mounts. To diagnose have the car running in the condition that creates the vibration ie park, drive, reverse with an assistant at the wheel. Put block of wood on floor jack and lift engine under oil pan. You may notice with the engine at a different angle the vibration goes away. Replace the mount located at the top right front of the car, often described as "front engine mount". These mounts often go bad without any other visual indication.
I'm so glad i found your comment, i replaced the driveshaft and bearings, took the car for wheel alignment and it was still vibrating i'm gonna try to replace the engine mounts and hope for the best.
Thank you RUclips family, vibration is completely gone, it was the front and driver's side motor mount, i can't remember the last time i drove with the whole family without the whole cabin vibrating on the highway 😭
This is what I’m getting into today cruising on the freeway for about 20 min it’s currently -15f here. Felt a jerk, gave it normal gas and bad front vibration. Did it couple more times, tried to give it a very small amount of gas and it doesn’t vibrate. So hoping just an engine mount. I hate these oil filled ones
What do you think about putting a floor jack under the engine, and just slightly taking some weight off of the mounts. Then, if the worn mounts are not under load, see if clunking goes away? That was my way of diagnosing.
You can ask somebody to assist you.Just lift up the hood/bonnet and observe if the engine is moving when you sharply move the vehicle and apply the brakes few times.
Just starting to have vibration during acceleration but and when turning to the right during acceleration. Not a mechanic at all but starting to try to fix this and liked your simple possible explanation of the reason maybe. You still doing videos? Have a Juke 2015 with 115,000 roughly miles on it.
Nice video bud think I have the same issue have to take it into the shop tomorrow my truck does this jerk when stop at a light and go to take off think it’s a mount now
I have what I would best describe as an intense grinding/vibration when accelarating from a stop in my car. It generally happens when I have to gas it pretty hard to turn onto a highway. There's also certain RPMS where the cabin vibration gets worse, like 2500. I'm pretty sure it's a motor mount, but i don't think it's developed enough to have a mechanic diagnose the specific mount.
@@SchrodingersBox That sounds like it'd be the cause of what I'm dealing with now, thank you. I will bring it up with my mechanic, as I will be scheduling an appointment week after next.
Not sure if I am too late for a response however I have a 06 f150 with sadly a 5.4 3v. I have this problem when I left off the gas at high way speeds 60mph+ I feel like there is a slight pull back and a clank. However when lightly letting off gas it doesn’t do it only with a sudden release.
Hello, I hear a clunk when I switch from N to Drive, in my Audi A6, especially after the first startup in the morning, or after parking my car for a few hours, and it disappears while driving, would it be the transmission mounts? thank you.
So I'm having an issue when I place my car on reverse. My car shakes a lot but stops shaking after I drive in reverse. My car doesn't shift from drive to reverse smoothly. What could potentially be the cause of it?
wierd now this makes me wonder that the clunk that I have when I brake on low speeds usually on on the first 3 gears could be from the transmission mount??
My symptoms are opposite, once in a blue moon when coming to a stop theres a clunk, butnot ALL the time! Not sure if its a transmission mount or motor mount.
So I definitely have at least one bad mount but I don’t know if that’s my only problem. I don’t have any clunking when I push the brake but I have a pretty big clunk when I let off of the brake. Could that also be from the motor mount?
Hi i just replaced front and passenger side motor mounts.(2005 altima)..still have vibration when sitting at a light....when i put in neutral or park it stops... only notice it when stopped not when driving>>> does this sound like a bad transmission mount to you??? i am pretty sure so i have one ordered... thanks for this informative video...
could be engine rough idle. I always start with a basic fuel trim analysis to rule that out before I even consider mounts since it’s so fast and simple.
I'm getting my engine mounts repaired and changing air filter this week. I haven't experienced any clunks, but it has been vibrating pretty bad when it's Idle and it just feels dodgy. Afraid to drive my car atm. Probably get it towed for safety reasons.
The mechanic revs the engine on neutral I believe and while standing in front of the van with a top view of the engine, I can see the engine tip downward a bit towards me everytime he rev'd it. So the engine shouldn't move at all ? Not even a bit ? thx
I just watched your troll vids. Hahaha. My new favorite channel! Also, thank you for the auto education. I have learned so much already. Been new sub for three days. Now I have a lot to go watch!
Schrodingers Box haha ok I won’t. Your Evap video and voltage drop AND your fuel trim video was really the most helpful and profoundly educational videos I’ve watched. By the way, I’ve seen all of south main autos, Scotty’s and Eric’s videos and your videos helped me truly get it, FINALLY! Thank you so much. Trying to find your paid channel, how do I find it?
Hello I was curious if possibly one of my the 4 mounts on my car was bad including the transmission or motor mount cause when I accelerate after first starting the car or taking off a stop sign/light. My 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 rides good until past 19/20 mp then jerks for some weird reason and just started about 2 months or so ago.
Schrodingers Box I’m confused what you are saying/asking. I’m staying a fact that my car does jerk when I accelerate around 20 mph and am asking that based on your video here do you feel like the motor or transmission mount can be the possible reason for that??
the check engin does not light up and does not stall at idle. Only when the headlights are off and I'm at a very slow speed (4-7 mph) to turn. All electronics are turned off. And then open it, close the door, and it all comes back. And the car forgets all the settings become like from the factory
This a awsome channel some others as well , recently found this after trying to find out what a few not machanic messed up on , 5 cars plus I think . Anyway I wish they found people like yourself and some others to that I have subscribe to . I quit this kinda work when it became work 1979 to 2002+- today . I wanted to find a good place to ask a question about a read out on a BMW just what direction someone like you might go with it , its BMW but could be anything well almost, it's now a loss, to owner , I may not ever touch it again and really after what was done to it by others I should not have touched it or done the whole job in the first place . I did not have time and that's odd I always have that. Even if not yourself I see some others who comment on here have there channels to that are very very good , me it's hard for me to say I'm good but I'm goodish . And poor not many tools left in a box no real diagnostic tools none now that test light ran off . So anyone want to look at a read out?
Sorry life side tracked me me from sharing the read out I was talking about I have it if your interested in taking a look at it , Ican take a pic of it. Or tap it in here . By the way Im done with even doing a thing about this , Im just curious.
Wow I like your video very detailed thank you, now my question to you is I have a 2012 Camry 2.5l mine does exactly as you describe/ show on the video so do you this it’s the front mount? Thank you
Yeah we had a "restructuring" at my job- caused me to have to focus for a few weeks on reconstructing things. Sorry about that! Hopefully have more videos during the holidays when it slows down!
@@SchrodingersBox Good to hear that! I learn a lot from your videos, not only the scientific aspect but also the way you approach a definitive diagnosis.
Wow. Great tip video. Watching this because im suspecting mine on the gearbox side to be shot. One question, can it cause vibrations when a break before car comes to stand still?
yes absolutely bad mounts can cause excessive vibration especially at idle or allow torque conditions. Very very common. And yes - I recommend replacing them all. First, they are all the same age but more importantly- the remaining mounts are strained far more covering for the bad mount so they will have even more wear.
@@SchrodingersBox so i removed my airbox, there i can see the mount, stuck a screwdriver in, very little effort i can wedge the gearbox side of the mount around. That ill take as a shot engine mount
Hello i have problem in my nissan qashqai when you release the clutch there a banging what should be the problem with this and the shifting lever is moving when i realese the clutch as well
These are great videos. Thanks for sharing the behind the curtains diagnosis. I watch you from Bogota in Colombia... how could I set up the access account you mentioned?
Is there a difference between a bad transmission mount and motor mount as far as symptoms go? I have tried like crazy to find out why my car has a slight shake to it at idle that I mainly feel in PARK/NEUTRAL. In gear idling it actually seems to go away. Fuel trims are perfect short term and a little lean long term and I don't get any change in rpms when I feel the shake so I'm thinking it doesn't have anything to do with engine performance and more likely is a mount. I just always thought that mounts are more of a constant vibration versus this intermittent shaking/shudder feel that I get.
I am getting a clunking noise going into reverse on 2001 silverado 5.3 with the 4l60e ext cab 8ft bed 1500LS only gear that makes this noise what do you think my problem might be? Doesn't make noise while driving just shifting into reverse and only reverse...
@@SchrodingersBox haven't checked that yet but I think I'm going to try to get under the truck by the rear u joint to get a better listen and I need to check that too what is the way you check that? Parking brake then neutral and move side to side?
My Ford F150 4.2 L V6 has code p0303 . I changed spark plugs- it has 53000 miles. It has motorcraft nickel spark plugs. How do they expect it to last 90000 as the maintenance schedule suggests? I thought these plugs only last 20000 miles. I expected it to have platinum or Iridium. I was the original owner so no one touched these plugs.
Hello sir.. i have a same car and i want to know how many mounting are there in this car? For the engine and gear box? Plz reply me sir..id really appreciate ur feedback
Hey I was wondering if you could help me I have a 92 Chevy Blazer I have my transmission replaced the guy said my transmission keep going out cuz my 4 by 4 bill is broke and it's leaning on my transmission can you explain that to me or tell me what do I need
Yes that explanation makes sense. If you have any misalignment of the driveline- broken mounts, broken or bent axles, anything where the axles, driveshafts and engine/transmission are out of alignment then it puts extreme stress on the transmission. You can often see this happen with vehicles that have been lifted like trucks and jeeps- if the lift kit is not done correctly then things will be out of alignment. This causes early failure of components. I would heed the mechanics advice that something is out of alignment causing premature wear.
Can the rear transmission mount on a transverse engine vehicle cause what feels like someone bumped the rear end and somewhat of a clunk when shifting from park to reverse?
I have a 2007 Mustang GT with a manual transmission. I suspect that I have a bad motor or trans mount, the problem that I’m having is when I’m shifting gears at low RPM’s it makes a CLUNK noise. Or if I am in first gear and Tap the gas and immediately let off I hear and slightly feel it. With it being a manual transmission how can I check to see exactly what it is considering I cannot do the brake check on it
Due to a battery acid issue, I had to replace my transmission at 20k miles. The new transmission (same year used with 14k miles) has been working great, except recently at 25k miles I hear a pop the first time I reverse. The van is still under factory powertrain warranty. A tire shop is saying my issue is transmission mounts. How is this possible at 25k miles? Is it possible to damage transmission mounts from off-roading? damaged from Acid?
Lots of things could cause that besides the things you mentioned. other loose mounts or suspension components, misalignments, poor quality parts and incorrect installation (eg missing heat shields etc) all can cause premature failure.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks. Im skeptical it's the transmission mount. It only happens when the van has been parked for a while and is first driven out. It's a single pop like a nuckle or bearing pop. The van was stuck in deep sand about a month ago and it made the noise trying to get out and i think that is when the damage occured, and then the issue surfaced the following week. My thinking is the transfer case or something in my CV joints.
I have a 2007 diesel ford fiesta manual shift, front wheel drive. When I change gears either up or down and when I accelerate or decelerate I hear a thud. As the car cruises this thud is not felt. This car had a single broken trans mount which I replaced, and the problem still persists. Any ideas on what other components can cause this thud?
I thought you quit making vids (almost a year) but here i stumbled upon this somewhat recent one. RUclips must have turned off the "bell" because i know I used to get notifications and didn't turn it off myself.
hello, the same thing happens with my 2016 transit, I mention that the engine mounts are brand new from ford, how can I contact you, maybe you can help me, I have this problem for a long time and I spent about 4000 pounds and the problem is still there 😢😢😢many thanks
Hi, Im from Sri Lanka Got a Kia Picanto 2005 Manual car. When I start driving after parking (park with engine on + AC on + handbrake) for a while there is a huge noise specially when turning both sides. This noise last for a few minutes until I drive fast for a few KMs. Also the noise occurs when driving after idle n traffic for a few seconds. In the cold start the noise is not there. What do you think?
Hello Sr. I have a 05 Ford Mustang and it's has a little miss only at 1 RPM above and below it's fine I have to let my foot off the gas a little bit the to make it shift and the key is stuck in the ignition and the longer runs the more codes it throws off. Please help! it's known for leaking water on the body control module / smart junction box thing on the passenger side kick panel do you think that could be it?
Schrodingers Box ,it keeps on throwing off a map sensor code even tho I put a new one on it, I think it might be the computer or something. Idk I'm super frustrated it's a really nice car.
@@bethanyharris7494 Then as I said- what DATA do you have? Why did you put a new MAP in? Was there signal, reference and ground? Did you initiate variables into the sensor and see proportionate voltage response? Why do you think it's the computer- is there lack of reference from the PCM pin? Those are the data that diagnose this issue.
Schrodingers Box the hand held put off code manifold absolute pressure sensor. but the reason why I think it's the computer is because that's what they're known for doing and it was getting wet and then after it starts warming up and I'll just start throwing off a bunch of codes and there's a little miss only at 1 RPM. When you're driving it and might be like a slight hesitation when you first get on the accelerator
@@bethanyharris7494 Well first off, the computers are not known for doing anything wrong. People who can't do basic diagnosis always blame the computer so thats why you see that as so "common". Stay with the basics- curve the MAP against load measuirng the SIGNAL voltage against the sensor ground and against against a chassis ground. Just keep it basic- that alone will rule out if the MAP is faulty.
Hi! I have a 2006 sienna fwd! I replace everything on the front end! Now every time press the gas going forward I hear s click sound only once I put it in reverse and click one time only!! The noice is coming Frome the driver front wheel!! Need help
Love your channel man, just subscribed. Lots to learn here and I'm still stumped on an issue I'm having with my 2000 Dodge Caravan Sport 3.3 It all started with my lights flickering. Next day the battery light come on and van loses all power. Had the alternator tested at 2 locations. Tested fine several times at both places, so I reinstall the alt and charged up battery. Van runs good for 2 days then the following morning dead battery. So I take the battery to F and F for testing and confirm defective battery. Installed new battery and the van runs excellent for a day and half, then guess what battery light is back on. Any tips, pointers, advice where to start would be awesome.
I have replaced both motor mounts on my 2013 GMC Yukon XL for the second time in a month and it is still making the same noise. Is there any other mount I need to change or something I’m missing? Thanks plz respond
it depends on budget. i like to change them all figuring all mounts are same age AND the remaining mounts had extra load from compensating for the bad one. but sometimes people can only afford to replace the ones causing symptoms.
I got a vw jetta 5 speed and I get a clunk when I come to a stop and put it in first not loud at all mainly just feel a little bump don't happen all the time maybe 5/10 times could that be a mount ? Only 53k miles..
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You are one hell of a straight forward and honest human being who wants to help from his heart with no Frills and bull let alone that wealth of experience not many have .Good man,I wish you all prosperity with whatever you desire .. AMEN
Well said 👏
Great info on how to test mounts. I’d never seen that done before. I do all of my own work, except my wife’s car is still under warranty and I had to diagnose the driver side lower motor mount myself, they tried 3 times to find it. I told my wife that’s why I work on ALL my own equipment and have people like yourself to teach what I don’t know. One of my 3 favorite sayings is: (You don’t have to know everything but surround yourself with people that do!) Thanks
This is my favorite RUclips channel. I love to learn your perspectives on each subject, and you have saved me a lot of money.
Thanks man!! Glad you found it!
Removed the engine mount and no grease on your hands! As usual I disregarded the information for 2%'ers! Good info Matt!
Hahahahaha... I actually showered before that scene I was so covered in grime hahaha!!
No throttle required. Love the approach from a different angle! Some said Albert Einstein's ideas started at the end and worked toward the beginning, opposite to everyone else. Thanks for the new trick/tool in my bag!
Dude thank you for this! I'm getting that same clunk when accelerating from a stop in reverse and drive, have had a heck of a time figuring out what it is after replacing other front end components(that all desperately needed to be replaced anyway.)
I freaking love the detail in your explanations. Real Science here...
4:24 is the funniest unexpected climax of this informative seminar. Your Videos are time savers and headache relievers.
I am not a mechanic but now I can describe my car problem better and got an idea of what is wrong. Helpful video.
This is the exact thing that happened to my LS460. I would brake sharply and it would clunk. Then at hwy speeds when I would try to pass someone, it would shift hard, but only when it would downshift to pass another car. Replaced the trans mount and all symptoms were gone. Good informative video.
I’m having the same issue with my ls460
This is awesome! I think this is my problem, I thought it was my transmission. I would have a kick or clunk when it would change from 1st to 2nd gear and when I’d slow down to stop I’d feel a kick again but not everytime. Hopefully it’s my engine mounts.
I have pretty much the same, what was your solution?
I truly appreciate you sharing your automotive "wisdom" with the class...You honor our "Creator" and the people you care about by helping others through your teachings...How many smart ass, stupid comment writing "lesser-minded" beings can do the same? None...The only thing they have to share is "negative energy"...And who needs anymore of that?
very helpful i have a knocking noise and i found out its the engine mount because of you i saved myself alot of money
I am not a mechanic, I am on here because I paid for clutch replacement that was done poorly. This video makes it clear how to diagnose bad motor mount using a two method technique.
I got the Trans Am to pass emissions -- turns out rotted rubber hoses on the evap line were leaking HC and being picked up by the sniffers at the emissions facility, causing a false positive. I'm happy! Thanks for all your videos, Matt. I've learned a lot.
Very helpful; better than some other videos diagnosing motor mounts !!!!
Hello Matt, warm wishes from Scotland. Thank you for posting your videos, they are an invaluable help to me with my work. My watch later box is full of your posts. Keep up the great work.
Scotland! Not too many viewers from there! That's cool!
Great video. I was able to diagnose our Honda Odyssey using this technique and found the rear mount totally broken.
Glad it helped!
Great technique! But I must add, most videos on RUclips have you power brake, not just go from drive to reverse. Power braking is also a great method, as ís yours Thanks for the content.
good point! power braking would have surely also found it. Should have showed that!
I liked the fact that those in developing nations can have free access! Wow!
Man I’m glad I found your channel. You’re one of the few that I actually learn from and further my knowledge of car diagnosis. Thank you
Can't say I've seen someone just do drive to reverse. Usually a light Power brake will do, but I really like your technique as well 👍
Thanks for the video learnt quite a lot from the comments as well. Thank you RUclips community!
I agree- the comments are usually more educational than the videos!
It was useful my van been having this problem for 6 months
Good video.
I searched for something else. But hit play.
Ended up telling a friend what was wrong with his van from the clunk.
I usually "stall" the car. By pressing the brake firmly and adding enough throttle to tweak things. (This is while car is on the ground) that and drive to reverse with the addition of the brake stall.
Also just briefly snapping (hit somewhat firmly but only briefly) the brake while rolling forward is it good way to spot control arm bushings. I can just feel it but you can feel the front slopping around or have someone watch it if possible in a pit ideally.
Another tip for anyone interested.... Sometimes mounts can fail another way that causes excessive vibration while engine running that can be felt in cab. Saw this a bunch with 4 cylinder Ford products with hydraulic oil filled mounts. To diagnose have the car running in the condition that creates the vibration ie park, drive, reverse with an assistant at the wheel. Put block of wood on floor jack and lift engine under oil pan. You may notice with the engine at a different angle the vibration goes away. Replace the mount located at the top right front of the car, often described as "front engine mount". These mounts often go bad without any other visual indication.
I'm so glad i found your comment, i replaced the driveshaft and bearings, took the car for wheel alignment and it was still vibrating i'm gonna try to replace the engine mounts and hope for the best.
Thank you RUclips family, vibration is completely gone, it was the front and driver's side motor mount, i can't remember the last time i drove with the whole family without the whole cabin vibrating on the highway 😭
This is what I’m getting into today cruising on the freeway for about 20 min it’s currently -15f here. Felt a jerk, gave it normal gas and bad front vibration. Did it couple more times, tried to give it a very small amount of gas and it doesn’t vibrate. So hoping just an engine mount. I hate these oil filled ones
Always interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing. Welcome back.
Thanks ANdrew!
What do you think about putting a floor jack under the engine, and just slightly taking some weight off of the mounts. Then, if the worn mounts are not under load, see if clunking goes away? That was my way of diagnosing.
That sounds a lot easier
Respect from India, great technique. Subbed.
Thanks and welcome!
2001 Honda Accord v6 automatic transmission or motor mount problem? How dose one diagnose the difference??? Both can cause a clunk!
You can ask somebody to assist you.Just lift up the hood/bonnet and observe if the engine is moving when you sharply move the vehicle and apply the brakes few times.
The process was interesting🤙🏽
Do engine mounts leak oil from the top of the black rubber?
Hydraulic ones do when they go bad, yes.
@SchrodingersBox I have a 2016 Mazda 6 are they hydraulic?
Schrodinger's box thanks for the great info.. I am big fan of your channel.. from Libya.
Just starting to have vibration during acceleration but and when turning to the right during acceleration. Not a mechanic at all but starting to try to fix this and liked your simple possible explanation of the reason maybe. You still doing videos? Have a Juke 2015 with 115,000 roughly miles on it.
I have another video of a Volkswagen Jetta where I diagnose a similar vibration you may want to search.
Nice video bud think I have the same issue have to take it into the shop tomorrow my truck does this jerk when stop at a light and go to take off think it’s a mount now
Real effective test, thanks Matt!
I have what I would best describe as an intense grinding/vibration when accelarating from a stop in my car. It generally happens when I have to gas it pretty hard to turn onto a highway. There's also certain RPMS where the cabin vibration gets worse, like 2500. I'm pretty sure it's a motor mount, but i don't think it's developed enough to have a mechanic diagnose the specific mount.
Sometimes when motor mounts fail the sagging engine/transmission can rest on the axle. You may see wear on the axleshaft where this happens.
@@SchrodingersBox That sounds like it'd be the cause of what I'm dealing with now, thank you. I will bring it up with my mechanic, as I will be scheduling an appointment week after next.
Good stuff man . Helpful video . My transmission mount was out on my truck .
Not sure if I am too late for a response however I have a 06 f150 with sadly a 5.4 3v. I have this problem when I left off the gas at high way speeds 60mph+ I feel like there is a slight pull back and a clank. However when lightly letting off gas it doesn’t do it only with a sudden release.
Good video and that mount was considered the transmission mount not engeine correct? ,it only moved when gear changed and braked
U know what u or talking about me bro thanks am all the way in Jamaica and u or so a good help
Hey Matt idk how I found this video but I found you thanks for the help
Hello, I hear a clunk when I switch from N to Drive, in my Audi A6, especially after the first startup in the morning, or after parking my car for a few hours, and it disappears while driving, would it be the transmission mounts? thank you.
So I'm having an issue when I place my car on reverse. My car shakes a lot but stops shaking after I drive in reverse. My car doesn't shift from drive to reverse smoothly. What could potentially be the cause of it?
wierd now this makes me wonder that the clunk that I have when I brake on low speeds usually on on the first 3 gears could be from the transmission mount??
The cat is back.. Missed you matt..we need some more content for us non subscribers
How would you test this in a manual? My Firebird makes a bunch of clunking sometimes when it idles, the engine looks like it’s moving around.
Same way. have e brake on and slowly apply clutch with car in gear and look for movement.
My symptoms are opposite, once in a blue moon when coming to a stop theres a clunk, butnot ALL the time! Not sure if its a transmission mount or motor mount.
could be either. it’s first thing I would check is mounts.
is the engine mount can be reason to shut down all electric systems cadillac escalade
So I definitely have at least one bad mount but I don’t know if that’s my only problem. I don’t have any clunking when I push the brake but I have a pretty big clunk when I let off of the brake. Could that also be from the motor mount?
Yes it can. Could also be a suspension issue. Could be a brake caliper issue. Could be a driveline issue. Could be lots of things.
Can bad motor mounts cause vibration at high speeds on steering and floor?
Hi i just replaced front and passenger side motor mounts.(2005 altima)..still have vibration when sitting at a light....when i put in neutral or park it stops... only notice it when stopped not when driving>>> does this sound like a bad transmission mount to you??? i am pretty sure so i have one ordered... thanks for this informative video...
could be engine rough idle. I always start with a basic fuel trim analysis to rule that out before I even consider mounts since it’s so fast and simple.
I'm getting my engine mounts repaired and changing air filter this week. I haven't experienced any clunks, but it has been vibrating pretty bad when it's Idle and it just feels dodgy. Afraid to drive my car atm. Probably get it towed for safety reasons.
The mechanic revs the engine on neutral I believe and while standing in front of the van with a top view of the engine, I can see the engine tip downward a bit towards me everytime he rev'd it. So the engine shouldn't move at all ? Not even a bit ? thx
a little bit. but moving several inches is a clue. also any movement indicated at the mount showing separation is absolutely unacceptable.
I just watched your troll vids. Hahaha. My new favorite channel! Also, thank you for the auto education. I have learned so much already. Been new sub for three days. Now I have a lot to go watch!
Hahaha dont binge-watch too much!! People have nearly lost their jobs... or their marriages (which I assume is better)
Schrodingers Box haha ok I won’t. Your Evap video and voltage drop AND your fuel trim video was really the most helpful and profoundly educational videos I’ve watched. By the way, I’ve seen all of south main autos, Scotty’s and Eric’s videos and your videos helped me truly get it, FINALLY! Thank you so much. Trying to find your paid channel, how do I find it?
Amazing video, I shall take heed. Thank you 👉🏾✨✨✨
Hello I was curious if possibly one of my the 4 mounts on my car was bad including the transmission or motor mount cause when I accelerate after first starting the car or taking off a stop sign/light. My 2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 rides good until past 19/20 mp then jerks for some weird reason and just started about 2 months or so ago.
it’s possible. who knows? What did your diagnosis indicate?
Schrodingers Box it didn’t pull up any code or anything
well of course not. I mean what is the diagnosis as result of the simple technique in the video?
Schrodingers Box I’m confused what you are saying/asking. I’m staying a fact that my car does jerk when I accelerate around 20 mph and am asking that based on your video here do you feel like the motor or transmission mount can be the possible reason for that??
could be. who knows. I have no data to go on.
What about a manual transmission? would the shifter handle shaking be a symptom of a transmission mount problem?
It could be. But so could 100 other things.
the check engin does not light up and does not stall at idle. Only when the headlights are off and I'm at a very slow speed (4-7 mph) to turn. All electronics are turned off. And then open it, close the door, and it all comes back. And the car forgets all the settings become like from the factory
Good information. I'm going to take my car to a mechanic and ask him if he can lift the car up to see what the problem is.
Good stuff dude 👏
After i changed my motor mounts on my 72 pinto the drive shaft is making a load thump thump thump while it turns. I'll check trans mount tomorrow.
This a awsome channel some others as well , recently found this after trying to find out what a few not machanic messed up on , 5 cars plus I think . Anyway I wish they found people like yourself and some others to that I have subscribe to . I quit this kinda work when it became work 1979 to 2002+- today . I wanted to find a good place to ask a question about a read out on a BMW just what direction someone like you might go with it , its BMW but could be anything well almost, it's now a loss, to owner , I may not ever touch it again and really after what was done to it by others I should not have touched it or done the whole job in the first place . I did not have time and that's odd I always have that.
Even if not yourself I see some others who comment on here have there channels to that are very very good , me it's hard for me to say I'm good but I'm goodish . And poor not many tools left in a box no real diagnostic tools none now that test light ran off . So anyone want to look at a read out?
Sorry life side tracked me me from sharing the read out I was talking about I have it if your interested in taking a look at it , Ican take a pic of it. Or tap it in here . By the way Im done with even doing a thing about this , Im just curious.
Wow I like your video very detailed thank you, now my question to you is I have a 2012 Camry 2.5l mine does exactly as you describe/ show on the video so do you this it’s the front mount? Thank you
I have no idea. what happened when you did the test shown in the video?
Excellent example! Thank you.
For a front wheel drive vehicle you wouldn't need all 4 wheels off the ground to perform this test, just the front two, correct?
correct. in fact that’s what I did on this one.
Thank you for that , very professional.
Thanks for the video! it has been a while since the last one.
Yeah we had a "restructuring" at my job- caused me to have to focus for a few weeks on reconstructing things. Sorry about that! Hopefully have more videos during the holidays when it slows down!
@@SchrodingersBox
Good to hear that! I learn a lot from your videos, not only the scientific aspect but also the way you approach a definitive diagnosis.
Wow. Great tip video. Watching this because im suspecting mine on the gearbox side to be shot. One question, can it cause vibrations when a break before car comes to stand still?
Got 345k kms on the clock, thinking on replacing all 3, will it be good practice doing it like that, if ones dead the rest can follow
yes absolutely bad mounts can cause excessive vibration especially at idle or allow torque conditions. Very very common.
And yes - I recommend replacing them all. First, they are all the same age but more importantly- the remaining mounts are strained far more covering for the bad mount so they will have even more wear.
@@SchrodingersBox so i removed my airbox, there i can see the mount, stuck a screwdriver in, very little effort i can wedge the gearbox side of the mount around. That ill take as a shot engine mount
Hello i have problem in my nissan qashqai when you release the clutch there a banging what should be the problem with this and the shifting lever is moving when i realese the clutch as well
It’s a mechanical issue. Just look where the sound is and you will see the issue.
I HAVE A 2005 NISSAN ALTIMA AND IWOLD LIKETO REPLACETHE 3 MOTOR MOUNTS.I WILL APRECIATE YOUR INSTALLATION VIDEO..THANK YOU!
starts 2:20 but very good video thankyou
These are great videos. Thanks for sharing the behind the curtains diagnosis. I watch you from Bogota in Colombia... how could I set up the access account you mentioned?
Just send me a PM with your email address
Is there a difference between a bad transmission mount and motor mount as far as symptoms go?
I have tried like crazy to find out why my car has a slight shake to it at idle that I mainly feel in PARK/NEUTRAL. In gear idling it actually seems to go away. Fuel trims are perfect short term and a little lean long term and I don't get any change in rpms when I feel the shake so I'm thinking it doesn't have anything to do with engine performance and more likely is a mount. I just always thought that mounts are more of a constant vibration versus this intermittent shaking/shudder feel that I get.
Hi Matt, welcome back you've been missed.
Thanks- missed you guys too!
I am getting a clunking noise going into reverse on 2001 silverado 5.3 with the 4l60e ext cab 8ft bed 1500LS only gear that makes this noise what do you think my problem might be? Doesn't make noise while driving just shifting into reverse and only reverse...
could be just about anything. what day do you have for backlash measurements?
@@SchrodingersBox haven't checked that yet but I think I'm going to try to get under the truck by the rear u joint to get a better listen and I need to check that too what is the way you check that? Parking brake then neutral and move side to side?
I would love for you to diagnose my 2006 300c shake issue that hasn't changed the passed 100k miles.
My Ford F150 4.2 L V6 has code p0303 . I changed spark plugs- it has 53000 miles. It has motorcraft nickel spark plugs. How do they expect it to last 90000 as the maintenance schedule suggests? I thought these plugs only last 20000 miles. I expected it to have platinum or Iridium. I was the original owner so no one touched these plugs.
Hello sir.. i have a same car and i want to know how many mounting are there in this car? For the engine and gear box? Plz reply me sir..id really appreciate ur feedback
From what I remember this car has 3 engine mounts and two transmission mounts.
Hey I was wondering if you could help me I have a 92 Chevy Blazer I have my transmission replaced the guy said my transmission keep going out cuz my 4 by 4 bill is broke and it's leaning on my transmission can you explain that to me or tell me what do I need
Yes that explanation makes sense. If you have any misalignment of the driveline- broken mounts, broken or bent axles, anything where the axles, driveshafts and engine/transmission are out of alignment then it puts extreme stress on the transmission. You can often see this happen with vehicles that have been lifted like trucks and jeeps- if the lift kit is not done correctly then things will be out of alignment. This causes early failure of components.
I would heed the mechanics advice that something is out of alignment causing premature wear.
Can the rear transmission mount on a transverse engine vehicle cause what feels like someone bumped the rear end and somewhat of a clunk when shifting from park to reverse?
most definitely. as can other things.
I have a 2007 Mustang GT with a manual transmission. I suspect that I have a bad motor or trans mount, the problem that I’m having is when I’m shifting gears at low RPM’s it makes a CLUNK noise. Or if I am in first gear and Tap the gas and immediately let off I hear and slightly feel it. With it being a manual transmission how can I check to see exactly what it is considering I cannot do the brake check on it
Use just the brake and the clutch- just apply clutch til it barely engages - you don’t need to use gas pedal.
Schrodingers Box thank you!!!! I really appreciate it
Due to a battery acid issue, I had to replace my transmission at 20k miles. The new transmission (same year used with 14k miles) has been working great, except recently at 25k miles I hear a pop the first time I reverse. The van is still under factory powertrain warranty. A tire shop is saying my issue is transmission mounts. How is this possible at 25k miles? Is it possible to damage transmission mounts from off-roading? damaged from Acid?
Lots of things could cause that besides the things you mentioned. other loose mounts or suspension components, misalignments, poor quality parts and incorrect installation (eg missing heat shields etc) all can cause premature failure.
@@SchrodingersBox Thanks. Im skeptical it's the transmission mount. It only happens when the van has been parked for a while and is first driven out. It's a single pop like a nuckle or bearing pop. The van was stuck in deep sand about a month ago and it made the noise trying to get out and i think that is when the damage occured, and then the issue surfaced the following week. My thinking is the transfer case or something in my CV joints.
I have a 2007 diesel ford fiesta manual shift, front wheel drive. When I change gears either up or down and when I accelerate or decelerate I hear a thud. As the car cruises this thud is not felt. This car had a single broken trans mount which I replaced, and the problem still persists. Any ideas on what other components can cause this thud?
I would check for excessive transmission shaft input/output ratio variance assuming all mounts are stable.
I thought you quit making vids (almost a year) but here i stumbled upon this somewhat recent one. RUclips must have turned off the "bell" because i know I used to get notifications and didn't turn it off myself.
hello, the same thing happens with my 2016 transit, I mention that the engine mounts are brand new from ford, how can I contact you, maybe you can help me, I have this problem for a long time and I spent about 4000 pounds and the problem is still there 😢😢😢many thanks
Hi what symptoms will a bad transmission mount cause 6 speed manual will it cause vibration and clunking noise at idle thanks
vibration at idle, clunking when going into gear or reverse and in some cases noises when turning ad driveshaft rubs against frame components.
Thanks
Hi, Im from Sri Lanka
Got a Kia Picanto 2005 Manual car. When I start driving after parking (park with engine on + AC on + handbrake) for a while there is a huge noise specially when turning both sides. This noise last for a few minutes until I drive fast for a few KMs.
Also the noise occurs when driving after idle n traffic for a few seconds. In the cold start the noise is not there.
What do you think?
Wow Matt good to see ya! Hope all is well 👍
Hello Sr. I have a 05 Ford Mustang and it's has a little miss only at 1 RPM above and below it's fine I have to let my foot off the gas a little bit the to make it shift and the key is stuck in the ignition and the longer runs the more codes it throws off. Please help! it's known for leaking water on the body control module / smart junction box thing on the passenger side kick panel do you think that could be it?
A million things- what data do you have?
Schrodingers Box ,it keeps on throwing off a map sensor code even tho I put a new one on it, I think it might be the computer or something. Idk I'm super frustrated it's a really nice car.
@@bethanyharris7494 Then as I said- what DATA do you have? Why did you put a new MAP in? Was there signal, reference and ground? Did you initiate variables into the sensor and see proportionate voltage response? Why do you think it's the computer- is there lack of reference from the PCM pin?
Those are the data that diagnose this issue.
Schrodingers Box the hand held put off code manifold absolute pressure sensor. but the reason why I think it's the computer is because that's what they're known for doing and it was getting wet and then after it starts warming up and I'll just start throwing off a bunch of codes and there's a little miss only at 1 RPM. When you're driving it and might be like a slight hesitation when you first get on the accelerator
@@bethanyharris7494 Well first off, the computers are not known for doing anything wrong. People who can't do basic diagnosis always blame the computer so thats why you see that as so "common".
Stay with the basics- curve the MAP against load measuirng the SIGNAL voltage against the sensor ground and against against a chassis ground.
Just keep it basic- that alone will rule out if the MAP is faulty.
Hi! I have a 2006 sienna fwd! I replace everything on the front end! Now every time press the gas going forward I hear s click sound only once I put it in reverse and click one time only!! The noice is coming Frome the driver front wheel!! Need help
you will need to just look and investigate. I would lift entire vehicle off ground and have someone power brake it to check for movement.
Amazing work
thank you!!
Hi my car shakes a little under load at low speed but it seems to shame left to right I will try to do your procedure. Hopefully I find something
Love your channel man, just subscribed. Lots to learn here and I'm still stumped on an issue I'm having with my 2000 Dodge Caravan Sport 3.3 It all started with my lights flickering. Next day the battery light come on and van loses all power. Had the alternator tested at 2 locations. Tested fine several times at both places, so I reinstall the alt and charged up battery. Van runs good for 2 days then the following morning dead battery. So I take the battery to F and F for testing and confirm defective battery. Installed new battery and the van runs excellent for a day and half, then guess what battery light is back on. Any tips, pointers, advice where to start would be awesome.
Check for parasitic draw
@@SchrodingersBox that was a good choice.
I have replaced both motor mounts on my 2013 GMC Yukon XL for the second time in a month and it is still making the same noise. Is there any other mount I need to change or something I’m missing? Thanks plz respond
Maybe the mounts arent the problem. Were they broken each time you replaced them?
Richard Gere is a mechanic ! 😄😄🔩🔧, , thank you for video, thought I had bad struts.. nope 2 Bad engine mounts. 👍
Hahaha I haven’t heard that comparison yet lol
What if the car shakes in idle? Will this be a bad transmission mount?
Could be. Could be dozens of things though.
Should we change everything @ once or we can do it one @ the Time...????
it depends on budget. i like to change them all figuring all mounts are same age AND the remaining mounts had extra load from compensating for the bad one. but sometimes people can only afford to replace the ones causing symptoms.
I got a vw jetta 5 speed and I get a clunk when I come to a stop and put it in first not loud at all mainly just feel a little bump don't happen all the time maybe 5/10 times could that be a mount ? Only 53k miles..
Could be. Also could be 100 other things though.