If anyone deserves a domino its you dude! I have one use it all the time. You'll have one in no time, along with a sawstop 🤣 and every other tool that makes the hobby easier and more efficient. That's just the way it goes. Table turned out awesome
Haha I appreciate it man! Can’t have it all (especially being fairly new to the game like myself) but it sure will be nice one day! Thanks for watching, hope you enjoyed the video!
How refreshing. I watch a lot of woodworking videos for both instruction and inspiration. It is so nice to see someone make something who doesn’t have 40 grand in tools. I mean wow just beginner to mid range tools that most of us have. I will be back for more. Thank you.
Always route the end grain first. When you reach the edge, you might get some tear out. But it will clean up when you do the sides. And I know most people route into the grain, but you are more likely to get chip out that way. The bit wants to lift the wood. I always do a climb cut. But only when using a hand held router!
I’m assuming you’re talking about the 1/8” roundover? You are right, but I’ve found that for those little roundover bits, grain direction doesn’t really matter. I do climb cut most of the time on my corners though!
Amazing work! Does this design, I would imagine there's a lot of stress on corners of the base. Does it rely on the rigidity of the tabletop at all? What's keeping the legs from widening over time? I'm looking for good strong base designs that don't require lower stretchers.
Hey man, beautiful table! I like how you were honest about your mistakes. I wanted to see more footage of your final results. You showed the table but then ended so quickly I would have liked to see more of the finished piece. Just an fyi.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and hope you enjoyed it. I’ll definitely look to add a little more final results footage. It’s a tough balance because I want to show the piece, but if I have too much at the end, people leave the video and it’s bad for the RUclips algorithm! Check out the highlight bubbles on my IG if you want to see more of this table!
Man I felt your pain when it was all warped. Agree with other comments, don't be shy and include some more show-off shots in the end. Final comment, it would have been nice with some wooden brackets instead of the metal ones, but I guess that also depends on time available.
Thanks for watching! I love hearing feedback. I actually watched this video back for the first time yesterday and I agree, I definitely cut the final reveal too short! Wood brackets would have been nice, but metal was just quick and easy this time!
Good job bro, subscribed! Assuming the thickness of the tabletop was enough, could you plane with an electric hand planer to make it straight (and thinner but that's allright)
Unfortunately I don’t think C-channel would have saved me here. The bow developed through the glue ups because of bad joints/over clamping. I hadn’t thought about it as a possible fix, but for a less severe bow in a table, that might work!
Excellent work! I was in the middle of a very similar table build for my daughter (much smaller: 42 x 30) and I've changed my leg assembly after watching this. I have not purchased the hardware yet: threaded inserts, screws and leveling feet. What sizes would you recommend?
I appreciate it! I typically use 1/4 x 20 threaded inserts for most everything. As far as leveling feet, I just get the most heavy duty option I can that will fit the size of the legs!
Of course! A table top this size will get wider and more narrow depending on the seasons. When you use threaded inserts and an oversized hole (on the metal brackets for this table) it allows the wood to move without putting pressure on the screw holding it in!
For sure! This is a bit long winded, but here you go. They both serve a different purpose. When you water pop, the grain for the wood raises and leaves it feeling a bit rough. If it was the moisture in the finish rather than just water, it would feel rough but you couldn’t resand the wood without stripping off the finish. So water popping is a great way to get around that problem. Pre-stain is for the color of the finish. Maple wood tends to get kind of blotchy when you stain it. A pre-stain mixture like I used here just helps the wood accept the color in the stain more evenly. Hope that helps!
you can't block the dilatation and contraction of the table top with those attachments. In fact it is better to deal with those modifications of dimension because of the variation of hygrometry rather than tempting to block them. so you have to put some slinding cross piece at the end of the table top as tradition does or under it and fixing the feet to them. The risk here is that your table top bow and curve above its legs.
These brackets are only meant to hold the tabletop down, not prevent it from bowing or cupping. As far as something like a breadboard, that’s not really necessary if you are using wood that has been dried and milled correctly. Breadboard ends would probably be the best way to prevent any movement over time, but a lot of people don’t like the look of them
@@alteredgraincustoms9891 but right now they are also completely constricting the expansion and contraction of the table top. also last i checked, breadboards are used to prevent cupping, definitely not for *preventing movement* edit: i noticed now that you mention that the holes are *oversized* to allow for some movement, which I didn't notice at fist. I'm still a bit hesistant since they still look pretty restrictive.
They actually do help with wood movement. The oversized holes of the metal brackets (like I used on this project) let’s the bolts keep downward pressure while still allowing so lateral movement
If anyone deserves a domino its you dude! I have one use it all the time. You'll have one in no time, along with a sawstop 🤣 and every other tool that makes the hobby easier and more efficient. That's just the way it goes. Table turned out awesome
Haha I appreciate it man! Can’t have it all (especially being fairly new to the game like myself) but it sure will be nice one day!
Thanks for watching, hope you enjoyed the video!
How refreshing. I watch a lot of woodworking videos for both instruction and inspiration. It is so nice to see someone make something who doesn’t have 40 grand in tools. I mean wow just beginner to mid range tools that most of us have. I will be back for more. Thank you.
On my way to make a table now, this video helps a lot!
Glad it helped!
Good on you for sharing your screw up and properly fixing the issue! The finished table looks great.
Haha not my finest moment, but hopefully somebody else can learn from it! Thank you!
Do you have plans for this table ? Looks good and great job . Love your videos
I don’t have plans for this at the moment, but I am considering making some.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Always route the end grain first. When you reach the edge, you might get some tear out. But it will clean up when you do the sides. And I know most people route into the grain, but you are more likely to get chip out that way. The bit wants to lift the wood. I always do a climb cut. But only when using a hand held router!
I’m assuming you’re talking about the 1/8” roundover? You are right, but I’ve found that for those little roundover bits, grain direction doesn’t really matter. I do climb cut most of the time on my corners though!
Bro you did that with the desalt sander! Props
It’s honestly not something I would wish upon my worst enemy lol
Amazing work! Does this design, I would imagine there's a lot of stress on corners of the base. Does it rely on the rigidity of the tabletop at all? What's keeping the legs from widening over time? I'm looking for good strong base designs that don't require lower stretchers.
Hey man, beautiful table! I like how you were honest about your mistakes. I wanted to see more footage of your final results. You showed the table but then ended so quickly I would have liked to see more of the finished piece. Just an fyi.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and hope you enjoyed it.
I’ll definitely look to add a little more final results footage. It’s a tough balance because I want to show the piece, but if I have too much at the end, people leave the video and it’s bad for the RUclips algorithm!
Check out the highlight bubbles on my IG if you want to see more of this table!
Man I felt your pain when it was all warped. Agree with other comments, don't be shy and include some more show-off shots in the end. Final comment, it would have been nice with some wooden brackets instead of the metal ones, but I guess that also depends on time available.
Thanks for watching! I love hearing feedback. I actually watched this video back for the first time yesterday and I agree, I definitely cut the final reveal too short!
Wood brackets would have been nice, but metal was just quick and easy this time!
Good job bro, subscribed! Assuming the thickness of the tabletop was enough, could you plane with an electric hand planer to make it straight (and thinner but that's allright)
I appreciate it! In theory yes! I’ve never tried something like that, but I’m guessing it would be a little tricky to get it truly dead flat.
Hey guy great video but without slots cut in your bar stock your table still won’t be able to expand or contract
Do you think by putting some C-channel in the bottom of the table would have prevented or even fixed the bowing of the original table top?
Unfortunately I don’t think C-channel would have saved me here. The bow developed through the glue ups because of bad joints/over clamping.
I hadn’t thought about it as a possible fix, but for a less severe bow in a table, that might work!
Excellent work! I was in the middle of a very similar table build for my daughter (much smaller: 42 x 30) and I've changed my leg assembly after watching this. I have not purchased the hardware yet: threaded inserts, screws and leveling feet. What sizes would you recommend?
I appreciate it!
I typically use 1/4 x 20 threaded inserts for most everything. As far as leveling feet, I just get the most heavy duty option I can that will fit the size of the legs!
Please better explain how the threaded inserts allow the top to move while expanding and contracting.
Of course! A table top this size will get wider and more narrow depending on the seasons. When you use threaded inserts and an oversized hole (on the metal brackets for this table) it allows the wood to move without putting pressure on the screw holding it in!
Nice
Do you have plans available for this?
I don’t currently offer plans, but I have been getting a lot of requests for them so I might offer some in the future!
Can you help me understand the need to both water-pop and pre-stain?
For sure! This is a bit long winded, but here you go.
They both serve a different purpose. When you water pop, the grain for the wood raises and leaves it feeling a bit rough. If it was the moisture in the finish rather than just water, it would feel rough but you couldn’t resand the wood without stripping off the finish. So water popping is a great way to get around that problem.
Pre-stain is for the color of the finish. Maple wood tends to get kind of blotchy when you stain it. A pre-stain mixture like I used here just helps the wood accept the color in the stain more evenly.
Hope that helps!
@@alteredgraincustoms9891 Thanks!
you can't block the dilatation and contraction of the table top with those attachments. In fact it is better to deal with those modifications of dimension because of the variation of hygrometry rather than tempting to block them. so you have to put some slinding cross piece at the end of the table top as tradition does or under it and fixing the feet to them.
The risk here is that your table top bow and curve above its legs.
These brackets are only meant to hold the tabletop down, not prevent it from bowing or cupping.
As far as something like a breadboard, that’s not really necessary if you are using wood that has been dried and milled correctly.
Breadboard ends would probably be the best way to prevent any movement over time, but a lot of people don’t like the look of them
@@alteredgraincustoms9891 but right now they are also completely constricting the expansion and contraction of the table top.
also last i checked, breadboards are used to prevent cupping, definitely not for *preventing movement*
edit: i noticed now that you mention that the holes are *oversized* to allow for some movement, which I didn't notice at fist. I'm still a bit hesistant since they still look pretty restrictive.
Is there a nonAI definition of Mid Century Modern definition? 🤔
Cool
Very cool
You’re not underpowered, I do this with hand tools as only have hand tools…I wish…
Respect! I don’t think I would have the patience for all hand tool work
Threaded inserts do not help with wood movement, at least the way you installed them.
They actually do help with wood movement. The oversized holes of the metal brackets (like I used on this project) let’s the bolts keep downward pressure while still allowing so lateral movement
So you are foureyes furniture on budget i supouse
I’ve never thought of it that way, but that’s a decently accurate comparison