96” FINISH MOWER WORKS ON A 25HP TRACTOR? John Deere 3025e
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2022
- You saw us set up our Del Morino XRM 235 Finish Mower the other day and today we test it out. We have three different scenarios: flat ground, uneven ground, and 3' tall grass. Can this 8' mower handle all of that while being pulled behind a 25HP John Deere 3025e?
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#JOHNDEERE #DELMORINO #MOWING
A finish mower can do an amazing job. I mow 2 bumpy acres of my property exclusively with a 5' finish mower weekly. Too rough for the zero turn. The results are better than my zero turn, better striping, and I can drink beer and smoke a cigar while doing it.
Three things that have improved my lawn quality greatly, cutting at 3.5”, harrowing single pass spring and fall, and switching to regular mower blades instead of high lift. High lift was causing ground erosion, and kicking up massive dust.
Dont think too much about rural grass, If its green its green, if its brown its brown.
Most of my rural grass is a bed of dandelions, LOL. Beautiful in the spring and like you say, if it's green it's green. Might come in handy one day if the grocery store runs out of lettuce
I just want to say, I have been watching many of your videos, and I have nothing but appreciation for the information and content about which tractors can do various tasks. Well done on your videos…
The first time I mowed my 4 acre property it was about 3 feet deep with weeds and tall grass. I used a 1025R with a 60D auto connect deck. I had to take it slow as I was watching for large items hidden in the grass. Now I did hit some medium rocks that dented the blades but I was expecting to get to sharpen / replace the blades after I got it all hacked down. Like you said, I didn't want to get a brush cutting attachment to use once. I did hit a half buried log, but that disabled the PTO immediately. I just got off that spot (looked to see what I hit) and restarted and everything was fine. Like you said, probably not something I would want to do often as it took a while by going slow. However, the finish mower did a great job of cutting as it was all weeds/grass and no 1 or 2" stalks / trees.
Thanks for sharing it's cool to get to see different implements at work. You have a beautiful place. Be safe have fun
We've been using a ex local government K-line 3meter finish mower for topping of pastures after grazing with cattle and horses. I only use it on the fields that don't have trees in them. It does a great job haven't had to do a thing to it either apart from sharpen the blades once a year. We run it on either a 1966 David Brown 880 tractor with 46hp or my JD 4066r. Either tractor doesn't have a problem with it. One of the reasons I brought it was due to finish mowers having a high tip speed and a sharper cut which aids in getting a quicker regrowth of the pasture which is important for us. For fields with trees I'll use a nobili bne 210 flail mower (Y flails) or a Celli Vega S210 flail mower (hammers) both 2.1m and fields with stones lumps bumps and sticks a Howard EHD180 rotaslasher (brushhog) 1.8m. it is a pretty lane something about post and rail fences that just looks good.
I have used my 7' Befco finish mower in 2-3' grass without issue, but would not use it for that type of service on a routine basis. Right now the Befco is relegated to stream bank duty by backing over the stream bank 7' at a time. I was surprised to see a 25hp tractor handling that 8' mower! Thanks for the video.
I'm glad I first cut our new farm with a riding mower the first few years. I blew that thing up several times finding rocks hidden in the tall weeds and grass. Far cheaper than buying a tractor and finish mower to find them. Now that I'm at the maintain the grass point I'm dreaming of a tractor and mower to seriously reduce my weekly hours cutting grass. Good to see how nice a job that finish mower does. Beautiful results.
I use a 60" finish mower on tall grass. I only have small areas to do, but it does well. I know my yard, so I know where to mow without hitting the areas that may catch the blades. Also, I raise it over those areas to run over them and then set it back down. It's also a very old mower (brush hog brand though).
When I was purchasing my Kioti CK2610, the dealer insisted that I had to have a 5ft mower and that a 6ft would be too much for it. I mow with my 6ft mower in high range in damp grass and it never bogs down once
So happy and love this. Would love this for my 3033R.
That’s a good looking mower, I have a 3035D John Deere and I would go with a 6’ mower. I have a 5’ and a 6’ Woods! It’s hard to beat a Woods finish mower! But I would definitely look at this mower if I was wanting to buy one!🚜
Great video!! That finish mower did a fine job. I have a 6ft. Befco finish mower I've had around 8 or 9 years was used when I bought it. I pull it with 1626 mahindra best one I've ever owned it will actually mow high grass n weeds makes a beautiful yard I mow 4 acres. That 8ft. Would be nice.
I've been waiting for this video since the initial put together video.
Awesome setup, well finish mower cheaper than commercial ZT..but everyone needs is different 😀
good video! great shots of it in action and with Courtney standing in the grass really gives a perspective how tall the grass is.
Agree that a finish mower is not designed to cut that tall grass on a consistent basis. I have a 72" finish mower and from last summer to this summer have mowed a few acreage lots with grass about as tall in your video. A couple of 5 acre lots, I've mowed 5 times and a couple of 2 acre lots I've mowed twice with tall grass. I always mow to a ~4" cut. All of the acres were home acreage lots meaning just grass, most were flat only a couple had smaller inclines to them, where from top to bottom the elevation change was ~40'. Most of the time I'm mowing my 5 acre lot with the grass ranging from 6"-8" in height.
what I like about my finish mower:
I like the cut. My 5 acre lot is rough from old pocket gopher tunnels and it seems like the ride in the tractor is more comfortable/smoother than a zero turn or riding lawn mower. It may be perception but it seems like I mow faster with my tractor and finish mower. Maintenance is quick and relatively easy. The deck is easy to clean. Belts, sheaves, gearbox, etc are easy to access. It's nice to be able to lift the mower deck and pressure wash underneath it, change blades etc. I do use a quick hitch with mine even though I'm not sure it's technically quick hitch compatible.
What I don't like about my finish mower
the pto is a pain to hook up, then again what things with a pto aren't? I find it difficult to get really close to my fence, around the kids' trampoline, swing etc. so I usually spend an hour trimming around things with my riding lawnmower then come back with the finish mower.
Problems I've had with my finish mower
The set screws around sheave / spindle were not tightened from the manufacturer or dealer resulting in the key and keyway getting worn and having to replace a sheave, spindle and hardware. about a $250 fix.
If I were to do it over again
I would get a larger finish mower. Something like the 8' would be a lot better because if your going to have a finish mower, might as well have one that is bigger than the standard deck you can buy or if I'm going to have a 72" mower then it might as well be a John Deere tractor with a 72" drive over auto connect deck with the load and go.
Great video Courtney! I'm glad you called them "bushings" this time instead of shims. How did it perform on the tall grass with the full width of cut?
I use my finish mower for hunting plots. We used to bush hog them but the finish mower mulches everything so much finer.
I have owned a rm 90 woods finish mower for 20 years it has free swinging blades and can do some rough work but its hard on tne belts
Great video
Thank you Courtney. This is exactly what I was looking for I have A D. R finish mower I pull behind my 1025r 🎉r and it sucks
I mowed grass like that even taller with a riding mower, a John Deere L130. As long as there aren’t big sticks or rocks I think most mowers will handle it you just have to have different expectations. You raise the deck as high as you can and it’s gonna look bad and you’re gonna have to do multi passes and you’re gonna have a lot of it that’s going to push down and then pop back up. I usually just raise my deck as high as it will go and I go over it slowly. If I don’t know it’s there you have to go really slow or you need to just get out and walk it make sure you’re not hitting a bunch of big sticks or rocks.
On the L1 30 I’ve run over bricks before and it messes up your blades but it’s not the end of the world, it’s a pain and it will throw the balance off but I was able to swap the blades out and it the mower was fine. I could see where you might get a brick cut up in there or some thing or a big stick or some twine or wire and I suppose you could bend the shaft on your spindle but those are replaceable as well. So I wouldn’t recommend it, if it’s really bad just pay somebody to brush hog it for you but if you know what they are and there are no rocks or thick branches then just go slow make sure it’s dry and get your deck up high and go really slow, then if it’s wet at all I would let it dry once you cut it the first time and hit it again a couple days later and at that point you can mow it and it will be rough but it will get back to normal eventually.
I would like to see how the 1025R handles the mower in the tall grass. I agree that you don’t have to raise a finish mower. Unless you’re transporting it down the road or you hit a tree stump. I would mainly like to know if you notice a difference in the two 25 horse engines.
I would love to see the comparison between what you did and a 5" cut. Less debris and improved mulching as well as healthier grass.
Perfect timing. Mowing yesterday with a finish mower and thinking I should have gotten a flail mower instead. Your third area of cut looked like my property, about 12 acres worth. For that third cut you made, would you recommend hammers or knives? What is the weight of the 60" flail mower for shipping? I would have to unload it with my 3025E.
Impressed. Didn't even see wheel tracks like you see with a brush hog
Courtney, I must say you are outstanding in your field! 🤣 Ok, I'll see myself out now!
'Love it! Old jokes like old wine just get better with age.
Yuk yuk yuk 😅
Running a 60” rear mower on a hill ‘taxes’ my 23hp tractor in medium range. More hydro whine than anything else. Low range is no problem. In my case, I think it’s more dragging a 600# mower up a hill than spinning the blades that causes the rpm’s to drop.
I use a 91" Caroni and a Woods TBW144 12Ft bat wing. Both finish mowers. Sometimes I'll get behind in work or an area stays wet and grows18" -24" tall. Providing the fields are nice and dry, both will work thru the stuff but you need good blades and slow ground speed. Not a standard practice but they will do it when truly necessary. Not recommended for standard operations.
Hey Courtney: I have a 6’ finish mower. You seem so do a better job than mine does because mine is side discharge. Rear discharge seems to spread it out and not make tracks down the side. Not really thrilled about your outcome so I’d saw a flail mower would be a better choice and a cleaner job. A bush hog tends to want to clump up the grass thru the turns. Nice mower though. You mentioned about needing to pick it up? I need to pick mine up to load and unload on the trailer. I’m using a B2320.
I think the mower did find on first pass. Any field with tall grass finish mower would be alright if the land is maintained on a regular basis. If it were me I would hit with a brush hog and afterwards finish mower weekly or so. A brush hog is always good to have around.
I've done this with a 7ft woods on 27 hp but only small areas less than an acre. Used to mow every 2 weeks field 20 acres
I think the 8' option its great for large open areas like yours that you want to finish mow. However, for land with a number of obstacles like trees, small fenced areas, etc. it is likely not the best choice.
Belly mowers are way better for that! It’s like a giant riding mower that doesn’t toss you around lol
@@alexdtay I completely agree sir. I have a 60" belly mower on my LX2610 and it does an excellent job of maintaining the finished areas of my property.
I have a1025r a d have used my 272 jd finish mower on up to 18 in grass no problems with great 1 pass results. Anything taller I use a 4 ft brush hog.
Doesn't miss a beat! Amazing! I could finish cutting in 1.5 hours instead of 6. Lol.
If I cut tall grass I raise the 3 point so cut is about 12”, then go back over the field with spacers set to 6” height. The second time over might let you see hidden rocks, branches. Another option is to mow only half the width of the cut so the mower doesn’t get bogged down.
I’d like to see a comparison of cutting quality between the flail mower and this finish mower
It will work if the mower is set to cut high, the highest setting. Go slow. It won’t be pretty. In a few days reset height of mower to a lower setting, 1/2 inch lower than previous setting. Cut the grass again. This second cutting will greatly improve the appearance and will mulch the brown clumps of grass leftover from the first cutting. It will mow faster the second time. To achieve great results every mowing, sharpen the blades frequently. A sharp blade cuts the grass instead of shredding it. The tractor will work better, the cut grass will have a cleaner appearance, and the whole job will be completed faster. Try it.
Great informative video. Looking at the drone shots of the finished area, I can clearly see what looks like missed grass between the blades. Is this truly missed grass or just clippings bunched into rows?
If I had to guess the tires likely laid the grass over and then some popped up after the pass. Typically these mowers have overlapping blades so nothing should be missed at least in a straight line.
The biggest issue I have with a wide mower like that is that I don't have a level spot on my property, and when I get to the end of a row and try turning around, that massive mower will swing the back of my compact tractor around like a pendulum. It is a scary proposition.
Better to play it safe and stick to a right-sized mower for your tractor.
For finish mowing and taller grass and even some light brush, I like the Woods RD990X. It will do a good job with tall grass or short. Only downside is they are expensive $$$$.
I’m a total layman when it comes to tractors to be sure the only thing I’ve ever owned was a John Deere LA 145 riding mower.
But I had to tell you I was all little disappointed at the finish that it left in that tall field on that 96 inch finish mower. When we say finish mower could you use this thing on a golf course?
Was waiting for this video. Currently maintain 20 acres with a 6’ rotary cutter takes 16 hours and don’t get the quality I’m looking for. Thinking this may cut time and get better results.
Dude!!!!! You are totally under tractored and under cuttered BAD!!! For that 20ac. Task
I have absolutely no experience, but I would go with a brush hog and a flail mower. You will always have "some" under brush (If you have a large property) somewhere you will want to clear once in a while. (Unless you got money for hired help)
I have the same tractor. Pretty level. What is the best size finish mower? Is this finish mower better than the John Deere sell at dealers?
I wonder if my grandfather's Ford 9N would carry a finish mower -- or I guess I should ask what size finish mower. Any idea?
I have a 2022 John Deere 3025e same rear tires want to add a finish mower - question will those tires tare up the grass? Approx cost for a finish mower 72 inch ?
I used to maintain a bunch of properties with a 4320 and 96” belly mower and worst case I would take 1/2 at a time and I’m talking once a month mowing in central Oklahoma during the wet season I had an 8ft brush hog but hated using it cause it hung off the back so far but a finish mower will knock down 7foot Johnson grass just slow down and take 1/2 a bite
But also there was one or two that I had the brush hog on it as well so I did two full passes instead of 1/2 at a time but it’s a bigger tractor and didn’t mind the weight on hills
I've found the taller the grass, the slower you have to go. I'm running an L47 Kabota so I have plenty of power. I run at 2400 rpms, but tall grass will cause the belts to slip.
So how did it cut when you actually cut an 8 foot path of grass, instead of only 4ft, in that 3ft tall stuff?
I prefer FAST results over "perfect" results. How much time did it take to use a too large mower at a slower speed vs a smaller, more appropriately sized one at a higher speed? I own three pieces of property (house, tree farm, and warehouse/office). I HATE mowing and lawn maintenance, considering it as a pointless waste of time, energy, and money. That being said, I mow each area fully maybe 6 times a year, leaving half untouched twelve times for the bear, deer, turkey, etc to still have food and cover. A tilting flail seems much more useful to me. They can handle my pond banks, creek, and ditches and can handle thicker material without slowing down or bogging
I went to your site but couldn't find any finish mowers. I am interested in the del merino 6 ft price. Please let me know
Thanks tom
I use my finish mower on tall grass all the time. No big deal. Cutting down brush is a different matter. On lighter brush, you can get away with it if you don't mind messing up your blades, otherwise you're right, use a brush mower.
I agree. Finish mowers, just like regular mowers, work on grass no matter the height or density. They don't work well on sticks bigger than say 1/2" or so. You can damage them. But grass won't cause any damage.
Nice property....What state do you live in if I may ask..?
Don't have large areas of tall grass to maintain, but several trails of clover/grasses to mow. My best results with the 48" finish mower is sometimes just needing several passes to obtain the correct height. Which brings to question of long grasses/weeds getting wrapped around the front driveshaft... seen a guy complain about tall grasses wrapped around his driveshaft, then stated it was John Deere's fault. Maybe I was wrong with telling him it was operator error which ticked him off... but IMO you walk around at times keeping the screens clean, why not look under the tractor also. Anyhow my opinion wasn't welcomed... and he was a tractor expert of 55 years. Was I wrong with my thought's ?
If you’re worried about maintaining the 540 rpm’s on the hills,…you can set it to run at 545 or so to compensate for the loss of rpm’s. Five or ten rpm’s won’t kill it.
If that mower was side discharging,…it would definitely struggle in that tall stuff.
Agreed next mark above and load down to 540, using 100% of the machine without lugging it.
How much is the 6 Footer ? I’m in Fenton Michigan
How do you fill a 3039 hour with a handle of 96?
Using the finish mower on tall fields ONCE is OK but wont pay off if done repeatedly in the long run. Used a Bush Hog brand finish mower for heavy stuff on my place I knew the ground that got overgrown… Couldn’t see the dips, rocks and obstacles well enough to avoid hitting and bending things tho…. especially the wheel posts. And quickly ate a belt that was pricey to fix. Get a brush hog as cheapest way to reclaim overgrown stuff and make 2 passes at 90 degree angles to each other to chop up the stalks so the grass doesnt get smothered. Motivates one to keep up with the “nice mower” after that.
I have a John Deere Zero Turn but every time I use it my lower back takes a beating and I end up in really bad pain that won’t go away for about 5 days. I’m think a tractor with a finish mower like this will be better for my back.
How does this compare with a mid mount mower? I know this is more personal preference, but do you think it is easier to use? Can you get into tighter areas easier, by backing in? I’ve been getting faster at removing and installing the MMM, but maybe the rear would be faster? just looking for thoughts? Also is this a cheaper option?
The RFM made more sense than the MMM at my old house because it had a lot of rough areas and bank edges where I'd otherwise need a push mower or trimmer. At my new place with more yard and trees, the MMM would be better. Based on demo clips, I'd be surprised if connecting an RFM (particularly the PTO) is easier than a drive-over deck. RFMs are generally cheaper than MMM but quality varies a lot by brand.
There are exceptions to everything but if I personally had it to do over again, I would've skipped the RFM and bought a rotary cutter and a nice ZT mower.
I have A JD 54" ZT and a Kubota with a 60" belly mower. I'm taking the belly mower off and scrapping it because where I brush hog it hangs up because the ground is uneven. I'm going to sell the zero turn because I can't find a bagger for it, I don't like the side discharge clumps, not to mention it beats the daylights out of my back. Going to run a 6' /72" finish mower off the back of my tractor and run the 48" brush hog for when it gets too thick. Just mowed 6-8' (taller than me) very thick grass with the brush mower with my old 24 horse Kubota, did great in mid-range.
I do not run the 540 mark on my 6400 my motor turns 2400 rpm full throttle I run a 15 ft batwing full throttle have had no problems running wide open 2001 john deere 6400 4x4.
Never had much luck with finish mowing in thick grass. Tall does ok, but the moment it gets thick, the 6ft one I have will bog down a 35hp tractor, let alone a 26hp tractor. Probably why I haven't used it years, as zero turn for yards, bush hog for everything else. Want a flail mower because a lot of what i cut with the bush hog could be handled easily wirh a flail, but just haven't been willing to spend the money yet.
It is my opinion that if you have a yard or field that is similar to golf course fairways, this may be the answer. I would much rather spend ~$300 more for the 82" DelMorino "FLIPPER SIDE-SHIFT FLAIL MOWER" mower without the hydraulic side-shift option, or the extra $700 for the same mower with the hydraulic side-shift, and give up the 11" of cutting width for a more versatile implement. The flail mower would give a much better cut in the high grass, and probably a similar cut in lawn-type situations given you are using the proper blades.
I've wondered tall grass with a finishing mower. Not bad for the initial pass. But again, if you can't see the ground, a brush hog would be better. Not to mention running your bucket right over the ground just in case.
I bet an L2501 would handle this like a champ to ;)
If the ground was all flat, could a 1025r handle this mower? Or is a 60" pretty much max for that machine?
lol should have watched the first 10 seconds of the video
surprise no shear bolt of slip clutch on a unit that big
The belt(s) is the sacrificial part.
Me too! It definitely needs a clutch! Or a shear.
@@tacratt6091 i just bought this one from Courtney. i’ll let you know if i have any problems with belts.
@@Scott-cu4olI just ordered one. Is it performing well, or should I cancel the order?
@@sonataq14 i am happy with mine. i cut both short and sometimes much too tall grass with it and it does a nice job. I am impressed at how the under side of the deck doesn’t get clogged up it stays relatively clean. I’ve only had two raise the three-point twice to clean out underneath it, and it was minor.
keep in mind anything 8 foot wide it doesn’t flex it’s going to scalp on the very uneven ground and be careful of rocks
This video made me sneeze... ;)
Well I guess I'll have to get a flail mower for it
Holy they know how to design a noisy gearbox, my befco doesn't make a quarter of the noise.
Put some good mulching blades on that mower and it will feel like you've got another 15% - 25% more PTO power.
Sooo I really want a finish mower for my 2038r.... but .... for the price wouldn't be better to get a 0-turn or dedicated mower? If the price point was much lower 100% get the finish..... as is at 4k or greater.... nope
A ZTM is for "yard". Areas that are mostly flat and smooth, and get mowed once a week at least, are what they handle best. So it really just depends on your terrain and power needs. Unless you buy a $20k ZTM with a diesel engine, the tractor can handle a lot more volume.
12:45 just raise it for a rough pass. Then do the finish pass.
Hmm so this would probably work on my b2650?
I have a B2650 on a 5’ king Kutter finish mower. That works fine, I think it would handle 6’ but I think it would have to work pretty hard on an 8 footer.
If I had a big area or acreage, I'd probably have livestock and I would be rotating pasture and have 1 pasture for hay and use the mini round baler. I don't need a big piece of property just to mow all the time. Give me something I can fatten up and eat it.
I know my 1953 golden jubilee will pick it up.
This mower needs a 1000 rpm PTO or a different gear box
I have a 72" finish mower... But I have a 1025
I’m saprised you ain’t rolling for hay with that type of grass feed for beef cows
Taller the grass the more times your going to have to adjust and remow
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Nice but you weren’t taking 8 feet in the big stuff.
It looked as if you were only using half the width of the mower in the tall field.
Yes because it was really tall, thick grass
now considering a 3e because well its all dealers have anymore im surpised the 25hp could turn that thing like it did
I have a 3025E and it works very well for general maintenance of my 10 acre property. However, if I had to do it all over again, I'd get the 3033R for its higher-capacity loader.
The 3 series tractors have went up about 6 grand since I bought mine in 2020, they are great little tractors. I got the 3035D, it’s gear driven. They put a little more power to the ground and are heavier than the E series! The D has a cast iron transmission and rear end, E has aluminum. Both are good tractors!
@@tacratt6091 I liked the d series I was just surprised it didn’t have a dual clutch. So the pto shuts down when / if you change gears.
Rent a flail mower...... don't use a finish mower or lawn mower, not a good idea.....
Awesome setup, well finish mower cheaper than commercial ZT..but everyone needs is different 😀