BMW 2.0 Turbo Complete Engine Removal 2010-2017 6 Gen N20 F10 - 1, 3, 5, & X Series
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- How to remove BMW 2.0 t engine N20 F10 through the top. Complete step-by-step.
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Nice i used to do them from the top. Once i got the table i was spoiled I'm talking 2 hrs
Oh nice
Hello good, I would like to know, in the engine cover has two hoses that are connected to the engine, which you mentioned in 2:08, my question is what is that compartment and those hoses for?
It’s a vacuum reservoir that goes to the waste gate solenoid.
Thank you so much for the video! I’m about to tackle this myself.
Do you feel there is enough room there to remove the engine with the torque converter still bolted on? My engine is siezed.
Tight but yes, you can try to turn the engine with a breaker bar and a pipe, it should turn even though it’s seized.
I got a question can you help me out bro I had pulled the engine out and the torque converter came out also trust me I unbolted that mf but anyway the transmission fluid all came out the torque converter how do I figure out how much oil to put back in ??????
And what transmission fluid do I use
Start with about a quart or transmission fluid and if in a pinch can use Valvoline max life multi vehicle transmission fluid but BMW brand is best.
Is there a video for reinstalling it?
Thank you
Not that one, had to get to the customer fast
Hey! Thanks for the video. I have completely removed my engine and transmission out of the 2013 BMW X3 28i. I am in the process of switching all the accessories from the old engine to the new engine we ordered. As of right now we are having trouble removing the crank pulley off of the old engine. We have removed the 6 bolts. And still seems not to want to come off. Any ideas?
Thank you!
That center crank bolt has about 500 ft lbs of torque and should have been removed while still in the car with the tool that goes into the transmission. Those 6 small bolts are only to take the pulley off the crank. If you have a strong engine stand and a couple of friends you can probably get that bolt off with a breaker bar and a long pipe
As of right now we are just trying to get the crank pulley itself off. I believe it should slide right off after we removed those 6 bolts but it is not wanting to come off. So we didn’t know if there were any tricks to getting it off other then just trying to pry it off or something along those lines. We are not trying to remove the center crank bolt unless we need to in order to get the pulley off.
Oh, try some penetrating oil and tap it all around to break some of the rust and try prying from different spots.
That turbo inlet broke on me too, but i was replacing it with an aluminum inlet, so it was perfect timing for me, but yea, those things are brittle. I don't know what the bmw engineers were thinking.
They all find ways to make things cheaper and cheaper
Once the new engine is put back in is there any special programming you need to do to make the replacement engine work? Or just clear the codes?
Good question. If you are rebuilding the original engine then probably clearing codes will be sufficient, although these engines are all computer controlled, even the fuel injectors have to be put back in there original positions and then you have the valvetronic system, so it's a good idea to have a quality scan tool near by. If you are installing a used engine from another vehicle then most likely it will have to be reprogramed.
@@motorcarnut I plan on buying a long block and transferring all sensors from the old engine to the new engine. Coils, Fuel injectors, etc. But it sounds like I definitely want to have a good scanner near by which I do. I don't have any ECU tool though to reset any adaptations...I don't think I do ( I have a PC with Evolve Tuning software for my e90...I'll have to call Evolve).
I am installing a used engine in my 2014 320i xdrive how do I get it reprogrammed? Is this something I can do with a certain type of scan tool or is this something that would have to be done by a bmw mechanic.
First see if it starts. If you have issues after that a good scan tool will be fine.
Did the front differential came out with the motor?
Yes
You are good
Thank you!
Does this apply to a 2016 BMW X3 xDrive28i? Also, I think my torque converter has gone bad on my car, and I need a new transmission. I have a diagnostics report and recording of the sounds, but I am not quite sure what everything means. Do you think you could give me a potential idea on what it might be? Could I send it to you in an email?
The procedure is very similar, yes. Your best bet is whoever did the diagnostics to have a local mechanic check it out.
Can you really do this if your not a mechanic but is mechanically inclined??
Yes, just follow my video and if you get stuck give me a shout out!
Yea I snagged out a n20 at the Junk yard before I did it at home for practice
Got to start somewhere, that’s great!
@@tecknopopoff what about installing another one after you remove the engine is that doable as well ?
What would you recommend if the engine is completely seized and won’t turn with breaker bar ? As far as removing engine from bell house ? Thanks in advance
Try with a breaker bar and long pipe, it should turn, if not drop engine and transmission from bottom.
Would it be okay to remove engine from the top with the torque converter still attached then remove oil pan gasket- Thanks again. Your videos help
That is doable, yes
I recently rebuilt my n20 engine and have no spark. No error codes or faults. Do you have any words or advice ?
Check all your ground connections especially the ones on the fuel injectors. Also, when you removed the injectors did you put them back in their exact location? Very important.
@@motorcarnut ”3 and 4 could be swapped while installing” grounds are tight. No leaks all. I purchased spark plug earlier this year when I started the project car hasn’t run. Pulled spark plugs and cleaned gas off them but noting after reinstalling . Should I purchase new spark plugs and coils ? I have tried a few coils I have laying around the garage with no luck “on extra plugs”
You're incredibly awesome for making this video. I'm currently considering taking on the swap of a freshly built N20 in my F10.
Thank you for the comment really appreciated! Good luck and if you get stuck on something give me a shout out
@@motorcarnuthey man, I’m completely stuck on the fuel breather pipes, the long one with a few connections that starts in that plastic pipe you broke, what does the other end connect to?
@Dan-gr4en give me the time in the video so I can look at which pipe you’re talking about
This is helping us, as we don't have access to a lift, can we take motor/transmission out together or separate them?
Not unless you’re dropping the whole front subframe which I wouldn’t do. It’s best to remove the transmission first from bottom then the engine through the top.
@@motorcarnut Ok, thanks you sir!, I'll be starting this project soon and I will stay tuned to you, thanks
No problem, keep me updated
I just finished removing all the transmission bolts on my 2013 328i BMW RWD. It wasn't easy to access these bolts. I'm concerned about re-installing the transmission bolts once I swap engines. Is it possible to install the engine and transmission as a single unit from above? Appreciate your help.
No, would have to be from the bottom and that’s way more work. The transmission bolts on the top can be accessed with a very long extension bar once you drop the tranny mount, they are right there
Wish I watched this before I installed the motor. Now I got 3 connectors not plugged in and 2 ports unconnected🥴
Sometimes it happens, hopefully it’s not too bad to get to a plug them in.
Started the job broke my ankle second day in and have been recovering for 6 months your videos saved me from going crazy trynna remember where it all goes 🤣
Thank you very much! Appreciate that and get well soon!
Part of this video answer my question I been looking and asking for long time.
How to handle A/C when you don’t have A/C machine to remove refrigerant. Well you take off A/C compressor and call it a day. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for great video 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Do a video on how to put it back in
When I have another one I will
What happened with the engine??
Owner let it run low on oil and seized up
I'm working on an x1 similar to this one you're rebuilding. Do I remove the transmission converter bolts first before the bolts holding tyranny to block, or does it matter?
Yes, because if you don’t the converter will side out a leak all over.
@Motorcarnut Oh alright I see. Makes sense. Lol I appreciate it very much because I'll probably be jumping on that in the morning.
No problem, good luck!
thank you very mutch the video was very helpfull. Well done and simply explained. Can't ask better.
Thank you very much!! Really appreciate the feedback
Great video, thank you! What's the best way to drop it down when working in the shop?
Do you lower engine and trans together and split them after? Or leave trans hanging on the skidplate, but maybe shift the engine and subframe forward to separate them?
If you have a lift, pull the transmission first from the bottom, then pull the engine out from the top.
Good video, can another engine like I6 fit these cars?
Not normally, no. Unless you’re doing a custom build then anything will fit.
I'm not a mechanic however mechanically inclined. I'm having to replace the block only in this BMW N20 X1...I'm working on it with jackstands and Rhino ramps,,,,,I have extra floor jacks and jackstands...I have everything removed except the block from tranny . Would I be able to unbolt the transmission from block with transmission and exhaust propped up on stands? I'm just trying to do this and get this car back on the road as fast as possible. I've been coming back to this video when taking all this stuff apart lol
I guess what I mean totally is can I leave the driveshaft hooked up to the tranny since working so close to the ground. Throw another block in it, then bolt it back up and rock on with it?
I don’t know about the X1 but the X3 the exhaust has to be removed the get access to the engine tranny bolts plus the driveshaft will be in the way as well. But if you can manage to get to them the transmission can stay in the car.
@@motorcarnut Well it appears that all tranny bolts are visible and also the converter bolts are as well when the driveshaft is turned ya know... I've already removed the turbo (which was the hardest thing thus far) but managed to get it out in good shape and there's nothing left under the hood but the block. I've removed all harnesses and oil cooler, you name it. Only thing left is the block and starter connected to it. The block has a chunk of the aluminum busted off of it where the car ran hot and busted the head gasket and basically burned through the aluminum block and ruined it. So I'm kind of worried about whether or not bearing are spun, pistons ruined, connected rods bent. Not sure what to think here without just removing the block and examining it closely. I know beyond a doubt the block needs replaced. I removed the cylinder head and looked it over it appears fine but I'm no mechanic I'm not totally sure, however it looks to still be in good shape considering the damage on the block ...When I bought the car I didn't know the history on it and the lady ran it hot so many times that it went into limp mode no telling how many times...but anyway upon draining all coolant and oil the oil was very chocolate milk substance, the coolant appeared alright but threw it out of course too. After draining the oil I poured the oil through a paint strainer and there was a couple of little chunks of metal that was in the pan. Probably off the chunk that was missing from the block guessing. Thanks for the reply I'm just trying to get this thing back on the road as soon as possible and be dependable. The girlfriend doesn't have anything to drive at the moment hence me trying desperately to figure this out. Thanks again
@@motorcarnut I do have all bolts in zip lock bags labeled so I'll know where it goes back and also pictures taken of the harnesses but I'm pretty sure I can get the harnesses back where they need to be.
Sounds like the engine is gone. The worst thing to happen to an all aluminum engine is overheating it bad. The head is probably warped beyond repair. So especially if you don’t have the experience and proper equipment to check the internals consider them scrap. It’s going to be cheaper to find a good running used engine and less headaches for you and faster too.
@motorcarnut do you have a video on how to remove subframe for 2013 bmw x3 awd? I am doing timing chain but I am unsure how to remove differential and oil pan.
At this time I do not. Sorry
@@motorcarnut thank you for your quick response! I think I might able to figure out how to take out differential by watching your other videos.
@andrewlee1126 Yes! I forgot about that one!
Hey man,
I have some quick questions. I have installed new fuel injectors, new spark plugs, and new ignition coils.
Do I need to program the injectors? And if so how do I do that?
And what is the best way to brine the engine?
I am doing this on a 2013 bmw x3 xdrive 28i.
Thanks for all the help!
Meant to say “prime the engine” not “brine the engine”
Yes you need to program the fuel injectors with a scan tool, you don’t have to prime the engine
Thank you for the response. I actually just ordered a scan tool online. Suppose to be here on Tuesday. So shall see if I can get it up and going by then. Thank you for the help again!
@austinlittle1488 no problem
Hey man. I took a few weeks off from the project. But I got it to where it runs and drives. But when I go to start the car if I don’t press the accelerator for a second while it starts it stalls out right away. But if after I press the accelerator for a second it runs fine and does not stall. You have any ideas on what that may be?
I finally got the N20 engine installed but I can't erase two fault codes: 131501 (vanos, intake not controllable) and 120408 (turbo charge pressure blocked). It's my understanding that the 131501 code is the primary fault code causing 120408. After getting these codes the first time, I removed the valve cover and switched out the intake vanos and solenoid. I then double checked my timing and it was perfect according to my tools and the flex plate timing pin. The fault codes reappeared. When viewing the data stream, the intake vanos is around #10 degrees while the exhaust vanos is around zero. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Do you have a good quality scan tool and erase codes from each individual module then recheck if codes reappear? Yes the 120408 code is related to the 131501. Fix it and second code will disappear. Did you have this problem before pulling engine? Check for a wiring problem as well.
I'm using the Ancel BM700 scan tool and yes the codes do reappear after being cleared. The wiring harness is from my first engine and never had this problem before. I'm wondering if my timing tool wasn't made correctly from the factory. Where would I find the electrical schematic?
@RexGreen-xo4rs Did you watch my video on setting up the timing and tools needed?
Also, when the engine seizes it will ruin almost always the exhaust vanos that can throw off timing as well. Have a video on that as well. Wiring diagram at alldata
It’s a different engine and yes I followed your video.
These engines are not drop in turn key, they have to be reprogrammed. That may also be your problem. Even if a fuel injector is replaced it will have to be programmed to work properly.
Hello. I just put my N20 engine back in and noticed one of my trans to engine bolts are longer then the other. Where does it go? Thanks in advance.
I believe it's the one that goes to the starter on top left of transmission housing.
SO awesome. Thank you so much!
Sure, no problem.
You are THE BOSS.
Thank you!
Would this video apply to a x1 2013 xdrive28i?
Yes, pretty much the same, mounts are a little different but it’s the same engine so it will be great help
@@motorcarnut Did you remove the radiator and fan to give you more room?
Depends on the vehicle, sometimes yes sometimes no.
I own a 2013 BMW 328i RWD with a 2.0 N20 engine and turbo. Can you remove the engine on a RWD from above as shown in the video?
yes it can
@@motorcarnut (i have a rwd also)what if we don't need to pull the transmission. does the exhaust and driveshaft still have to be dropped or can the transmission bolts be accessed from the top and bottom. And lastly do the converter bolts have to be removed if the transmission won't be pulled
The converter bolts must be removed because the connect to the engines flywheel. And I don’t think you can disconnect the wiring harness from the transmission that’s all part of the engine harness without removing the exhaust shields which are behind the exhaust and driveshaft.
@@motorcarnut good work. im busy with my RWD 328. I went on to remove the intake manifold and the mounting bracket you removed last. with both of them off , i was able to access the engine and transmission bolts and didnt have to remove the propshaft and transmission mounts. nice video
@@motorcarnut thank you so much. I’m pulling my n20 this weekend and you gave me all the confidence I need 👍