Yet another option, I found worked really well is to use a (3M) kit for polishing headlights. The final coat, supplied on a little swatch of tissue, provides decent UV protection & will turn a fairly cloudy print almost as clear as glass. For the polishing, I've found toothpaste (cheapest you can find) with an electric toothbrush works at least as well as any of the (expensive) polishing compounds.
It would last years outside because it’s coated with uv blocking clear coat. If your cars base coat paint didn’t have clear coat it would go to crap really fast. When you see a cars paint start to fade and peel then that means the uv protectants wore out in the clear coat. Same goes for clear coated uv resin items. You could even ceramic coat it if you want.
@@jerednorman4265 are you printing with an SLS or polyjet printer? If SLS then it could be a number of things like your printer not being leveled properly, the float is not leveling the resin properly, your tank is contaminated or expired, also make sure your IPA bath is not too diluted. If polyjet is probably one of your UV lamps being partially blocked, if your printer has two lamps, try to do a Pattern test it'll let you know where material is not properly curing.
I have not experienced what you’re describing. Is probably a different resin, or different contact. I’m not sure how a clear acrylic coating would make it do that unless there were a bad reaction.
I think these were printed on the form 3, which means it was the form 3 proprietary clear resin. But i have done this with other clear resin. Just do not post cure the part.
I think it would be better if you 3D print molds to the shape of the windshield and then use vacuum forming to shape the plastic sheets to the mold. It will be clear without sanding, shaping, clear coating, etc. and plus it will be nearly indestructible rather than brittle.
I just wanted to make sure...you said print, then IPA bath, and then the post-processing sanding and clearcoat...but NO uv curing..correct? Cool video, btw.
chatbear69 well, the Lens is for a hal replica with some electronics... it was for a friend, I’m not sure if I’ll make a video showing the rest of the project as there are some very nice ones out there already.
I've still got the greatest enthusiasm and confidence in the mission
Thorough tutorial bro, thanks
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Yet another option, I found worked really well is to use a (3M) kit for polishing headlights. The final coat, supplied on a little swatch of tissue, provides decent UV protection & will turn a fairly cloudy print almost as clear as glass.
For the polishing, I've found toothpaste (cheapest you can find) with an electric toothbrush works at least as well as any of the (expensive) polishing compounds.
Can I see HALs finished "eye" ? BTW You did a good job Dave, I'm going to reluctantly let you back through the pod bay door. 😉😉
very useful information, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
What do you degrease with? Acrylic Cleaner? IPA? Thanks for the great guide!
What resin did you use for this?
You can also use clear nail varnish in a pinch. Good video.
Darren Tarbard is the nail varnish uv blocking?
@@DIYEngineering Depends on the type I guess?
How does this hold up over time left in the sun or worn outside on a costume?
It would last years outside because it’s coated with uv blocking clear coat. If your cars base coat paint didn’t have clear coat it would go to crap really fast. When you see a cars paint start to fade and peel then that means the uv protectants wore out in the clear coat. Same goes for clear coated uv resin items. You could even ceramic coat it if you want.
This is awesome! I'm trying to do the same thing but keep getting a stream of air bubble up the middle of the print. Any ideas?
Are the bubbles in the resin print or from the polishing?
It happens during printing
@@jerednorman4265 are you printing with an SLS or polyjet printer? If SLS then it could be a number of things like your printer not being leveled properly, the float is not leveling the resin properly, your tank is contaminated or expired, also make sure your IPA bath is not too diluted. If polyjet is probably one of your UV lamps being partially blocked, if your printer has two lamps, try to do a Pattern test it'll let you know where material is not properly curing.
How can you make resin out of acrlic
I've heard of the krylon uv clear making the material soft and crumbly. Did you experience any type of reaction like this?
I have not experienced what you’re describing. Is probably a different resin, or different contact. I’m not sure how a clear acrylic coating would make it do that unless there were a bad reaction.
What is the 3d printed lens for?
Andrew Hayes a hal 9000 printed replica.
@@DIYEngineering NEAT!
not enought for canopy fpv
I have a question. Are the transparent prints transparent to UV? I am trying to make a 3d printed UV light guide
As there are printed with uv resin, i do not believe they would be uv transparent
Which resin did you use for that initial printing?
I think these were printed on the form 3, which means it was the form 3 proprietary clear resin.
But i have done this with other clear resin. Just do not post cure the part.
@@DIYEngineering Thanks! But if I do not postcure the part, the part cannot be exposed to sunlight for instance, right?
Do you do both sides? I am assuming yes. Thanks great video!
yes, both sides. thanks
Just to clarify, you did NOT cure the part after the print, just washed? How long did you let the part sit before performing the process?
that's correct, I allowed it to outgas any absorbed IPA for about 6 hours.
Thank you!
I'm a model builder. I wonder HOW you could make like windshields for model trucks without using a drill press?
The process could be done by hand if you take your time.
I think it would be better if you 3D print molds to the shape of the windshield and then use vacuum forming to shape the plastic sheets to the mold. It will be clear without sanding, shaping, clear coating, etc. and plus it will be nearly indestructible rather than brittle.
Dremel tool with polishing bit.
I just wanted to make sure...you said print, then IPA bath, and then the post-processing sanding and clearcoat...but NO uv curing..correct?
Cool video, btw.
ty, yes, that's correct... over curing is not necessary for clear and will yellow the resin. good luck
HAL may rock but David RULES!!! Not that I'm complaining but was this purely an instruction video or will this tie into an upcoming project?
chatbear69 well, the Lens is for a hal replica with some electronics... it was for a friend, I’m not sure if I’ll make a video showing the rest of the project as there are some very nice ones out there already.
@@DIYEngineering Nice. Was thinking of doing something similar but utilizing the Jarvis AI. www.wikihow.com/Create-a-JARVIS-Like-AI-Assistant
Daisy.. Daaaaisy....
Geez, what a heavy lift. Just want a water washable resin that doesn't yellow. I don't want to sand the object five times with a drill press, etc.
ill do anything but sanding
lol