There's a large resistor in these units that's designed to desolder itself and fall out in the event of overheating. It looks like you have put a large cap over it
Hahaha! That sounds like such a British thing to do! I'll have a second look at the schematic and try to understand what the problem was that they were trying to solve with a self-desoldering resistor. Numerous resistors had been replaced already maybe 20-30 years ago, so the previous technician might have already botched it. What specifically were they protecting from overheating?? If the resistor is floating out in mid-air like that, that's FIRE protection!! If it's touching a transformer, that's SHORT protection (and would indicate they didn't trust their transformers). If it's to desolder itself if it overheats itself, that's poorly-chosen resistor RATING (or maybe they only had poorly-performing resistors) and should be mitigated by correctly sizing the resistor and fuse instead. In my eyes, whoever worked on it last botched it big time, because they put a 5-AMP FUSE in where it calls for a 1A slow-blow!! I replaced that with a 1.25A SB. I don't think I mentioned that in the video.
Apologies, late to this video and not sure about resistors dropping off but, yes, there appears to be a high wattage, possibly wirewound, resistor (top right at 4:04) and you don't want to surround that with anything.
@@ralphj4012 Thanks, I'll check that resistor with my temperature gun. Might move it to a better location for airflow. There aren't any holes in the chassis to let air out the top (but the whole bottom is open).
A nice amplifier! The speaker terminals were originally phenolic with screws, under which the speaker wire was looped. The US style output sockets are odd but were made by McMurdo (a British company) and on this model would have supplied a tuner and another items as required. I have a Leak Tuner (UK model) which has the US two prong plug to fit into this socket. Very confusing 🤨
In both channels make me think the signal is connected to the wrong input or something. It was not so straightforward to hook it to the right inputs I found. If it's distorted and muffled, it could be the power supply capacitor is shot and the voltage isn't getting as high as it should.
Old British HiFi uses that plug too. My Linn Sondek from 1974 has it. Mother outlet is to power a turntable or radio.
There's a large resistor in these units that's designed to desolder itself and fall out in the event of overheating. It looks like you have put a large cap over it
Hahaha! That sounds like such a British thing to do! I'll have a second look at the schematic and try to understand what the problem was that they were trying to solve with a self-desoldering resistor. Numerous resistors had been replaced already maybe 20-30 years ago, so the previous technician might have already botched it.
What specifically were they protecting from overheating?? If the resistor is floating out in mid-air like that, that's FIRE protection!! If it's touching a transformer, that's SHORT protection (and would indicate they didn't trust their transformers). If it's to desolder itself if it overheats itself, that's poorly-chosen resistor RATING (or maybe they only had poorly-performing resistors) and should be mitigated by correctly sizing the resistor and fuse instead.
In my eyes, whoever worked on it last botched it big time, because they put a 5-AMP FUSE in where it calls for a 1A slow-blow!! I replaced that with a 1.25A SB. I don't think I mentioned that in the video.
Apologies, late to this video and not sure about resistors dropping off but, yes, there appears to be a high wattage, possibly wirewound, resistor (top right at 4:04) and you don't want to surround that with anything.
@@ralphj4012 Thanks, I'll check that resistor with my temperature gun. Might move it to a better location for airflow. There aren't any holes in the chassis to let air out the top (but the whole bottom is open).
You MUST keep that resistor at the correct value or risk destroying the transformers.
A nice amplifier! The speaker terminals were originally phenolic with screws, under which the speaker wire was looped. The US style output sockets are odd but were made by McMurdo (a British company) and on this model would have supplied a tuner and another items as required. I have a Leak Tuner (UK model) which has the US two prong plug to fit into this socket. Very confusing 🤨
Have the same amp needs work on it
Hi there, could you please advise me, I have a leak 20 but it's quiet and muffled on both channels, any ideas why that could be? Thanks, Ben
In both channels make me think the signal is connected to the wrong input or something. It was not so straightforward to hook it to the right inputs I found. If it's distorted and muffled, it could be the power supply capacitor is shot and the voltage isn't getting as high as it should.
I have 245Vac line every day... Give the amp to me :D
We were going to sell it, but we've got a pair of treasured Tannoy 15" reds that want to pair with this Leak amp!