A friend of mine who is an excellent artist painted the Steed car on my bedroom wall almost full size . Now covered .Some day someone will find it. My 90y old father still lives in there . Lovin this 😊
17" with a taller sidewall would look better on your Steed replica. 16" would look a bit small. 19" would look too big for a Steed replica. 17" would still give you enough room within the wheel to fit 13 inch brake discs with a set of large 4-pot Brembo calipers.
@@sportscarstory A video telling the history of "The John Steed Jag". I thought you'd enjoy this. 🙂 RUclips Video: ruclips.net/video/ruR_tyA-gik/видео.html Best regards, Ben P.S. Whether you decide on 17" or 18" wheels...in my opinion...a tall, '70s-look sidewall tyre is most important. Additionally, the brand of tyre should be Pirelli, Michelin or Good~Year...in my opinion. 🙂
Perhaps you can “reverse engineer”. Find the tyre profile that gives the right look then choose the wheel to fit. Perhaps use a plywood template sprayed black of the various tyre sizes available and put them in the wheel arches to check the visual appearance.
@@sportscarstory PLEASE FORGIVE ME. I meant to type 9. There are exactly "9 vanes" in the lower grill. I apologize for the typo. At my age, I should proof-read even the simplest sentences I write. 🙂 Best regards, Ben
@@sportscarstory I agree 100%. Any effort to replicate this iconic "John Steed Jag" without the correct Kent Alloy Wheels is pointless & pissn' in the wind. As you know, these wheels are a profound requirement. They make "the look"...uniquely impressive. There is no substitute. The same is true about the British Racing Green Paint. You are building 1 of my top 5 dream cars. I'm green with envy. 🙂 Best regards, Ben
@@sportscarstory It’s a great project -congratulations. A Steed replica car would have pride of place in my dream garage. I have to admit, though, I preferred the original “Avengers” to the “New Avengers”. Combine Diana Rigg and the XJC in the one show and you’d have perfection! As far as I remember the “New Avengers” was a prime example of product placement, as all the principal characters drove BL cars.
The new avengers was brilliant! I was 11 in the long hot summers of 76 & 77, with the silver jubilee street parties & royal mania, the character john steed seemed to be part of it. one thing I did notice being in the sign trade the number 8 is upside down on robins doors, the original race car is right way up. also the kerning between L & e, I know you do sometimes have to compromise with door gaps.
I’ve been wanting to recreate a Steed car for a good number of years. The main thing stopping me is finding the right wheels, they have got to be of the original GKN deep dished design to look right. I’m interested in getting some made and spreading the cost, maybe they can be machined from billet if we find the right people.
Image wheels have said they will do it - for the right money. If we can get the size right first that will be great. Either 17” or 18” depending on tyre availability. Drop me a tweet @sportscarstory if you want to share costs. Thanks for watching!
Well the kit is made by Fibresports who got a set from someone who bought the originals from Broadspeed, but Broadspeed was a small company, so probably didn’t have tech specs on the wheels. Saying that, one person on RUclips has an original “Steed” wheel, so I’m pretty sure we will be faithful to the original car.
THANK YOU for another great video the car looks amazing. Congratulations to Robin on his car its a true work of passion. With regards to your car, the Wheels look great on the race car but I would stick with complete original look on the wheels taking advantage of modern tech and I would definitely go beige on green its just a classic look for the interior. What an amazing project thanks again for sharing Romano Palm Beach Florida
Hi it’s great to see the progress I just wanted to clarify some points wheel spacers don’t increase the load on the bearing it’s the offset of the wheel that should be the same as factory this will keep the bearing to the centre of the wheel so if you want the wheel to be wider outwards on the FRONT you need to increase it by the same percentage inwards this will keep it correct for your steering and bearing load. If you just add to the outside your steering would be all over the place, one thing designed into the front geometry is when you turn the steering from full left to full right the wheel should not rotate. So if you add 2” to the outer you need to add 2” inwards, so you might end up with a more wider wheel on the front that you thought but it will steer correctly so check your inner clearance, this doesn’t apply to the rear as it doesn’t steer but will apply to bearing loads if there is a big offset to the bearing not being in the centre of the wheel. As for spacers you can use them to correct the offset of wheels or include it in your calculations so you have the option to remove it if you find the wheel rubs on the outside this save you from having the wheels completely re made as you then have the option to remove it to go inwards without changing the wheel, so a bit of a safety net. You can readily get the wide rear tyres in 19”and not so much in 18” and hardly anything in 17” on the other gentleman’s car the height of the side wall was slightly less on the front than the rear as 40% of 225mm is less than 30% of 305mm width but all the tyres in 295 & 300 range are 30 & 35 profile. You could always go 18” front 19”rear a lot of split rim companies can do a 19” outer barrel that fits on a 18” centre so all your centres are the same it’s just the outer that is different that means you can have a taller profile on the front without being a bigger overall diameter than the rear as the front tyres are not so wide so there are more profile options check out tyres before wheel widths to see what you can get. If you want to contact me I am happy to talk I have added a tyre size calculator to help tiresize.com/comparison/
Fantastic job ! Careful between 16"and 17", the Steed look was due in a big part to the small diameter wheels, those "sit" the car and made that incredible beastial personality.
There were more than one coupe done, a friend of mine had the red with black roof one.Identical to the steed one. About 1980 he lived in South Wales and had the car for a few years. Ironically he had the original x pack Escort featured at the start of the Minder program, before the Jag!.
Hi from NZ .I see that you are building a Broadspeed Coupe look-a-like. I had one made from a Fibersport kit and put it on an XJ6 series 2. It is a short wheel base car so the dimensions are as the coupe but as I didn’t like the look of the rear arches hanging over the rear doors I had the rear doors welded up so I have a home made coupe. As for wheels, I spoke to the owner of a proper Broadspeed in Oz (since sold) who said the tyres were not available now (2005) so I went for 18” made for me by Simmons (in Oz), 9” front and 11” rear. Tyres are 245x40 front and 285x35 rear. The front air dam is too low for a road car so I had it cut down by a fibreglass boat builder friend. The Australian Jaguar Magazine wrote and article on the car in edition 129, worth a look.
Thanks. Yes torn as to whether to adapt the bumper or go fibreglass. Steve at Fibresports says it depend on how easy it will be to put brackets on to attach fibreglass bumpers. I think 17” would be good - because I think you said the originals were 16”?
@@sportscarstory a welded steel bumper is MUCH stronger , specialy when you want to use it on the road , it ll be a real bumper , because a fiberglass one will break easy , and yes the original wheels where 16 inch
Thanks for watching from sunny Florida! I’ve managed to get 3 people who want these wheels together, so hopefully we can share the development costs. We will be visiting Image wheels soon, so stay tuned!
There are some pictures of the original steed car being restored on line with the outer rear arches not fitted yet and you can see how the inner rear arches are cut away.
On Robin's replica the front and rear tyres have almost the same sidewall height, the front is 90mm, the rear 91.5mm. Combined with the 19 inch wheels, this gives a total wheel/tyre height of 662mm and 665mm, or just over 26 inches. The standard XJ12 tyre, 205/70 x 15", has a sidewall of 143.5mm, combined with the 15 inch wheel gives a total height of 668mm or just over 26.25 inches.
@@sportscarstory I think you just halve the total height for that, depends if you mean the loaded tyre radius, which itself depends on many factors such as weight of the car, tyre pressure, tyre construction, e.t.c. If you are within 5% of the original diameter you will be fine.
Rule of Thumb for wheels: Half A profile-height up if you go from 19"to 18" with the same tyre-width. On your car I would have gone for a higher tyre. In front you could narrow the arch to match the wheel (will make it more driveable)
Does anyone know what became of John Steeds Broadspeed Jag? Is it in a private collection, or was it scrapped after the TV series finished. This question may have been covered in these videos, but I'm a bit late to this party, sorry.
It was sold at auction in 2015 and there are pictures out there showing it being restored somewhere in the north of England. But still a mystery as to who owns it. Hopefully it’ll turn up. Thanks for watching!
I’ve just Go**gled for images of the original car in action as filmed in the tv series ie stills taken from the tv film. There’s absolutely no doubt - the original car as it appears in the tv series has a beige interior!😊
I’d imagine the original car had 15” rims as that was large at the time, at least here in the USA. I think the race car has the wheel width down Pat so your Steed car would be sorted with his width. A 17” or 18” would be the max wheel I’d go with. 17” tires are probably more available than other sizes but again that’s over on my side of the pond. It’s getting there and I can’t wait to see this come together.
Cars of that era look best with a thicker sidewall. Unlike the other commenter, sixteen inches is best. Though if you have already chosen the brakes and need the room, seventeen will work. Though to someone with a practiced eye, the sidewall will be too thin. As for fitment, you can always uses spacers to get the gap correct.
Thanks for your comment. As the original car had 16”, I think I can get away with 17’s. As there are more tyres available. Do you think that’ll look ok?
@@sportscarstory I understand the full importance of your query. First is the cost. One cannot simply go around buying all manner of rims. And, rims can make or break the look of a car. Seventeens are a good compromise in that there are many tires for that size. And it allows larger brakes. You should able to find a tire with enough meat on the sidewall to look good as well ride well. Great project car. The Avengers et al are amongst my favorite shows.
@@sportscarstory Some many years ago Car & Driver did an experiment with rim and tire size. The optimum size is 17". Anything larger is more prone to breakage and wearing out suspension faster. This being all towards a street driven car.
Will try and get an accurate copy of the original wheels, prob just 1 or 2 inches bigger for practicality: tyre availability. So probably 17”. Thanks for watching! We’ll get there!
The last number on a tyre, before the diameter is the proportion of the width, eg 40 is 40% of the width, as your rim diameter decreases, you should increase the height proportion to keep the same rolling radius. I'd be concerned about having lower profile tyres when going out that wide due to the increased portional pressures on the axles. Would look great though
@sportscarstory I think the 17s would look more period, despite being bigger. You'll have a big wheel still with a better ride and less pressures running through the hub assembly etc. Awesome project though and loving the progress updates.
305/30R19 is 305mm tread width, 305*0.3 sidewall height (91.5mm) and 19" diameter wheels. FWIW I doubt that the Steed car as originally built would have had anything bigger than 15" wheels unless it was fitted with racing wheels and tyres.
According to someone who has an original wheel, the steed car had 16” wheels which is an odd size. Which is why I’ll go for 17 or 18” to make the size as near as possible but also practical. Thanks for watching!
The wheels look good, but the steed wheels would finish the car and make it complete. Love the content and asking us for an opinion which is nice,but end of day it’s your creation and your doing great job,
Thanks! We’re just trying to nail the size, & then we’ll get the design as close to the Steed car as possible. Thanks for watching! Do subscribe as more coming.
17 inches is the way to go, you need a bit sidewall, then you need to find some closer looking replica wheels [275 40 17?] original tyre profile of nearly all tyres sold was 82%, and it wasn't even stated on the tyre sidewall, ie 155 r 13, r was for radial. new tyres are 80% from start
Don’t worry, I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right. If I can get 17’s with the right rolling radius tyres, I think that’ll be the right option.
Hmm the wheels do work, and they look like their off of the race car I pointed out, but I think if you go that way you gotta keep it red, as red and black work well together, green and black, not so much, and it looks like it might give the new fenders abit of trouble with the clearance like it might need more backspacing, which is a shame as they look geniuenly good, and I wouldnt want to go smaller, but the smaller you go rim size wise, the more cushion and shielding the suspension has from the bumps in the road as you up the tire size to match the space left in the wheel well but conversely with really large tires like this, you almost want a thin tire wall so it keeps the grip to the road given the pressure to space index honestly above all else, I would take what he knows, and use that and then experiment and that race car actually has the same size front tires my car is running with 18's, and that is a stock car from 3 years ago, well 4 now actually also the wheels on the model when you look at the photo look to be a little off, and the car sits differently, its one inch above the front rims, but jacked up two inches in the back, plus the painted effects at 12:50, theirs actual painted stripes in the rims, and a faint bronzing to the inner rims in general like almost a twisler type effect, and the rims on the actual car are about an inch bigger than the ones on the model, like the model looks closer to the race car here, its more square in the photo also maybe you need to have a word with aston martin, and ask them for a deep dish version of the rims they used in 1976, as they look damn close, like look up ASTON MARTIN FACTORY 15"x7" LAGONDA ALLOY WHEELS RECONDITIONED on ebay, those look like a non deep dish version of them with less slots and personally I would just leave the bumpers alone, as the chrome looks good on it either that or fiberglass it but paint it gloss to keep that shine, maybe even fiberglass it but keep the overriders as it looks like its missing something also by the way with what I said of the lotus and putting the elise engine in it with the bond esprit, the original engine those cars had, the K series from rover was made and designed around simplicity, and they dramatically simplified the wiring harness and the instrument cluster for it to run off of one plug vs apparently, a full hundred for the one off of the esprit, atleast the 1990s one, as the books from 98' so if you go that route you might have to replace the instrument cluster with the one off the elise, which was made by a specific company in kent apparently if I'm remembering it correctly think like the unit you saw on the caterhams, as i bet its the same group, and caterham might be a good source for an adaptive plug in and play wiring harness too given the nature of how they make those also it seems like the elise in a way was kind of a remade esprit for simplicity and modern production standards, not explicitly said in the book but it kinda seems like it also extremely cheap, as I saw one for 13 thousand pounds on the Co UK version of E-bay, while here its 35K plus for a latter american spec one with the toyota motor, they put in to counter the weight the added safety equipment and changes to the body as I get the feeling they went away from Bonded aliumnium to straight wielded for our safety standards, which added to it like it did the renault sport spider, its competitor that richard hammond actually brought up when talking about his past in an interview I saw recently as he worked for Renault before men and motors, and mentioned the sheer failure of that car given its close release to the elise and that construction change made it slower than the elise by a considerable margin, even though literally the same company made the chasis, it was just one was bonded with glue and then fasteners, the elise, the other wielded, which adds a ton of weight apparently which might explain why the bond vanquish is the same way, as they took the production methods from Lotus, and somehow that thing weighed like 4,000 pounds, and yet its made out of alumiumn, like how does that work, turns out that's how which might explain why I remember harry bringing up how nice the original elise was with the old engine, despite it only being a 130 horses, not too far off of the one for the original Esprit really granted those could have been mystical ones where it was said to be double what it actually was, which would explain the performance figures with its proported 160, and what everyone says of them now, which would put it 40 over and also with the esprit, the 1990's one, Tavarish had one in and was trying to fix it, and he gave up, as he kept finding glue, fasteners, glue and fasteners, and it was very much built like a delorean with wood and everything which apparently was built in the lotus factory with the first ones, and was literally just a turned around Esprit with the engine in the trunk, hence the weird a arm design its got that's more suited to the front with the steering, than the rear where the power goes and that was an 89/90 refit car, the one with the, I wouldnt say ugly, but lacking in beauty new version of it with the worked over body that eventually got turned into the V8 so you might run into that with the original depending how they did it, like their might legit be plywood in there holding the body together which you most certainly wouldnt expect with a 1990 car like that, but it had only been a few years since the delorean failure and if it worked their was no reason to change it, given they were never designed for long term service and replacibility granted lotus with the S1 was built when Rolls Royce owned the company, so it might share more with the ash frames and the like of that more than anything else, like an old derby bentley
Thanks for all the info. I’ll check out the Lagos’s wheels and see if they’re right. It will save a lot of money. As for the Lotus, I m just having a look at it now it’s safely in my garage. More videos coming! Thanks for watching & info
Loving the progress , the wheels need to be identical to Steeds jag otherwise it’s just not right, I think the wheels will make or break this project, loving what you are doing though 👍👍👍
When I saw the Steed XJ in 1979-80 ish it had its original 15"' diameter GKN alloy wheels on it , pretty sure it was running 50 series Dunlop wet racing tyres. To build an accurate replica you should go 15'' to be period correct . B F Goodrich still do wide radial TA road legal tyres in 255 50 15 and 275 50 15 they are only SR rated though which may be a problem If you intend to top end it.
Hey FYI with the wheels again, I was just looking and I think what they might have done is just a custom version of some OEM jaguar rims, as I found one marked as Jaguar XJS style of all things, and its like a flat version of what's on the car, like I think what they did is just made a custom version probably using the broadspeed's setup, of tire, depth, and all that as the base and how funny is it that I found that simply because I always get the Nomanclanture mixed up, and keep thinking XJS instead of XJC like put in NEW Classic JAGUAR XJS Style, 6x15 Wheel Fits For XJ Series 1-3 Rims JAXJ615 on the flea as old' archy luxury used to call it, and that looks like it just flat, and with the inserts painted black, instead of the bronze they used for the stripe so they might have just rebarrled the thing, and put in a deeper dish, styled like the old to reach the bolts, so it should give you a design prototype to work off of, as its definitely a custom version of the factory OEM rim that they probably made just for the show after all british leeland was sponsoring the show and had them and the rover SD1's, Triumph's, and all that running around, would make sense that they would do something like that for them, like it might have been a 3 piece job which would also explain why its been such a pain to replicate, it might have literally been a factory one off made just for the car, and could explain some of the wonky driving physics knowing leeland back then if they didnt do them right after all its come back to longbridge! ITS ON STRIKE lol
Yes you’re probably right about them being one off. If you look at pics of the first race car , it had the Steed wheels which were very like the Kent XJS alloys but deep dished. Subscribe to see the next instalment when I get the wheels made. Thanks for watching!
A difficult balance between authenticity, availability and cost. Ultimately you should go with what you’re happy with but for me, a smaller diameter wheel closer in design to the original GKN’s with higher profile rubber keeps it in period & avoids the incongruity of a larger diameter/wider rim with a very low profile tyre, particularly for this road car iteration.
Thanks. Yes probably going to go with slightly bigger than the odd sized original wheels, but not as big as Robins, but the same rolling radius. Just got to get the design right now! Thanks for watching, stay subscribed to see the final result!
Perhaps you could “reverse engineer” by settling on the tyre profile first then find /have made the wheel to fit? I suspect that the availability of tyre size is going to more restricted than the availability of the wheel as you can ultimately have the wheel made but you can’t have the tyre made. How about making up plywood templates of the various tyre profiles and trying them under the wheel arches to settle on the look? That’s got to be cheaper than buying several sets of tyres to try out! I suggest concentrating on tyre profiles with a higher sidewall, as anything too low profile is simply going to look too modern on a 70’s era car.
The front spoiler is just about spot on to my way of thinking. Not wishing to sound negative,but those wheels are not my cup of tea,question for you part one do you need alloys?. Part two have you thought about the possibility of having banded steels ,which to my way of thinking are more in keeping with the age of the car regardless of the modifications,the kit now it's fitted suits very well I think.
Good point. I’m obsessed with getting the wheel size right at the moment. I’ll move on to the design and materials next. Thanks for watching! More to come!
Understand completely about getting the wheel size right however it's a jaguar and at the end of the day you want it to ride like one ,smaller wheels /17 and a more compliant side wall.
Just lower the chassis 5 or 6cm and the wheels will fit nicely! It looks like you have plenty of steer clearance forward and there's no need for flairs in the rear!...✌
Apparently, the explanation for the tramlining on the original Steed car was as follows. The wheels were race wheels, so the only tyres available were race tyres. To make it road legal, they had to fit wet-weather tyres...
actualy they narrowed the wheels to fit on the normal road suspension , because the original size would never have fit , and because they narrowed them ( only on the inside ) the car tramlined like crazy as it had the compleet wrong offset ,,, the tires where some sort of american tires , also a reason they had to narrow them , to get some tires to fit the wheels
I think you will need to work from the pictures for the wheels. The Steed wheels were unique. You can see them on the race car 001 at the launch which is on RUclips. These are the launch wheels that were later used on the Steed car. Unlike the wheel modelmania has, the Steed car wheels are alloy. The wheel modelmania has is from 001 but later when they were changed from alloy to Magnesium and painted black (you can't polish magnesium) and changed both in design and offset and had slots cut into them for brake cooling. So that wheel won't really give you exactly what you need and its better to work from pictures. Both wheels were made by GKN (the original testing was done on BBS but as they were German, GKN were asked to make some bespoke wheels). So the only set of Steed wheels that exist to that design and offset are on the Steed car as they were taken off the race car 001 once it moved to Magnesium. The two 77 cars, one of which is 003 that you went to see, were made by Speedline and were 19 inch. The 19 inch was to stop the tyres rotating on the rims which was a big issue with cross-ply slicks and 600bhp by then. (you can tell the original wheels as they have four clamps on them to hold the tyres on and stop slipping) Sadly the wheels on 003 have been changed (by Image I think though I am not sure) as the tyres were made especially by Dunlop (nobody had 19 inch wheels then) and are not available. JDHT wanted to use the car for demonstrations so had some wheels made to fit tyres that were available (Avons I think) but the offset both front and rear is wrong as ModelMania has correctly said. Originally the centres of the Speedlines were gold but then were painted black as the brake dust from the water cooled brakes turned them black anyway. The only place to see the original wheels and offsets for the 77 cars is on the other 77 car, 004 which is still entirely original. The front is not nearly as inset and the rear misses the arch - though not by much. The problem you have with what you have done with your car for clearance is that not enough metal has been removed from the rear wings. There are no wheel liners or the wheels would foul the arches on the front. But you will need to modify the front suspension to allow for the different offset to avoid bump steer. If you want the car to actually perform you will need to start making modifications as per Broadspeed and change the radius arm for a link that does not twist the suspension as you will lose contact patch on a wide tyre otherwise. Broadspeeds have no bushes at al and are metal to metal rose jointed everywhere. One final point, the arches you have are the 77 arches that are designed for the Speedline 19 inch wheels and are not the same as the arches on the Steed car. The arches you have are a bit more aggressive and less rounded and a bit bigger than the Steed car. You mentioned the inboard rear brakes. Obviously inboard brakes are a big advantage due to unsprung weight. There are heat issues for the diff particularly - which are worse on a Broadspeed due to power and weight than they are on say a lightweight e type which has the same system. You will see on a lightweight e type either a bootlid vent or on the earlier cars just a propped open bootlid to let the heat out. Broadspeeds had to have fans and water cooling to improve this and avoid cooking the diff. That was a problem largely solved and did not really contribute to the unreliability which was either down to the DFV dry sump pump which could not cope with the amount of oil or the magnesium uprights which Jaguar would not homologate to improve and were not strong enough. That said you will see on the inside of 003 you looked at, a big diff temperature gauge in the middle.
That’s so interesting! I can’t do anything about the arches I’ve got now, but it explains a lot. It probably means if I go to 17” or even 18” wheels it will look right compared to the real Steed car because my arches are bigger. Would you agree? I wouldn’t mind having a chat if you can message me through twitter / X ? @sportscarstory. Thanks so much for taking the time to send this message. K rgds, Peter
@@sportscarstory genuinely thank you for that patient reply. What you’ve got is as good as you’re going to get, the wheels fill the arches convincingly and give a great stance.
@@sportscarstory it’s going to be very cool - can’t wait. I’m sure you’ll have seen Harry Metcalfe’s revitalised V12 coupe. A different direction but lots of shared DNA, mainly in the great proportions and details. Best looking British saloon(/coupe) of the era?
There will be compromises but for me the original "Kent " wheels are desirable . Will you, do you have the steel sliding roof on yours ? And lets hope you don't need to remove the tanks !!!
No I don’t have a sunroof- but going by what people are telling me about roof cracking, that’s no bad thing. I believe I have relatively new tanks. Yes got to go for deep dished Kent alloys. Thanks for watching, stay subscribed if you want to see the next instalment.
Thanks. I spoke to WheelMania, but they don’t go less than 18’s - and they pushed me in the direction of Image wheels ( very paly with each other) thanks for watching!
Is that cracking on the rear arch of the museum car? Looks like that or a very poor, wrinkly vinyl wrap, which I’m sure it’s not. I’d imagine for race purposes they would make the fibreglass as thin and light as possible, but for a show car you want them to be thicker and more durable. Many years ago I owned a Lotus Esprit S2 and discovered one of the problems of owning an earlier classic Elite or Elan was the arches/wings developing star cracks in the fibreglass where stones etc would be thrown up from the road. The Esprit had an inner skin/arch which prevented the problem, and I seem to recall owners of the older cars glued pads inside their arches to prevent the problem recurring after a restoration. I really admire and envy what you are doing with this recreation. I loved the Steed car too - such an imaginative and appropriate update on the Bentley. Do we know whose idea it was? And have you got the right mirrors for the doors? That’s one thing that looks so wrong on Harry’s XJC. They sit at an awkward angle and just don’t look right. I have the 1/18 model and am curious when you refer to basing the build on that. It’s a “perfect” or perfected version of the car. The slats on the real thing never looked as perfect on the real car. I wouldn’t have thought counting them would present a problem as you mention. I very much look forward to seeing your car when finished. I own a dark metalic MG TF mainly as a result of loving the Steed car. With the body coloured hardtop on, if you have an overly developed imagination, it looks a little like an XJC 😉
@@sportscarstory The filler cracked on 003 after the Nurburgring which it finished second. That's the Flugplatz for you. All four wheels off the ground every lap. 004 doesn't have the cracking because it retired after the opening lap. On the other hand 004 set a Group 2 lap record (with John Fitzpatrick driving) from a standing start on that opening lap before it retired. It was 20 seconds faster than the nearest BMW in just that one lap of the Ring.
I’m a keen motorsport fan. When you see the race cars in the paddock you can notice the flaws that can’t be seen when they are out on the track. The Museum car is not a show car as such, but the actual race car, flaws and all. As Innes Ireland once said, Colin Chapman’s ideal race car would be so light that it would win the race and then immediately fall apart!
@@sportscarstory I’ve just Go****led for images of the original car in action during filming of the TV series . No doubt about it - it’s a beige interior!
Not sure if those wheels are the way to go if you are trying to stay faithful to the model. The ones on the model look a little like Kent’s on steroids. V nice.
The wheels your car currently look small and inset… but I think half the issue is the profile of the tyre as you say in the video. The tyres on your car currently have a much lower profile than the Steed car. Keep the rolling radius of the race car and look for 65/60/50 profile tyre (with the appropriate cross section) and see what rime size the tyres require. The Steed/GKN/Kent alloys are SOOO much nicer wheel design. The guys at Image Wheels international ltd are supposed to be ace at this fitment sizing quandary.
@@sportscarstory On their website they have some good fitting information that you may care to look at. I think the page is called “ alloy wheel technically “.
@@sportscarstory OK .. On their Kent Billet Alloy Wheel page they have a banner at the top that reads “THE OUTER RIM DISH SIZE WILL VARY FROM CAR TO CAR DEPENDENT ON DIMENSION 'C' - SEE INFO / TECHNICAL.” Click on the “SEE INFO / TECHNICAL” part. Rgds
the offset of the rear wheels on the museum car is wrong ,, they had the rear wheels remade in 2006 or somewhere around that time , and they got the offset wrong , so don't look at that one plz
For sure. I’m getting the Steed wheels made. There are now 3 of us sharing the costs. Please subscribe to see the finished article- probably sometime next year. Thanks for watching!
@@sportscarstory How have you got the pattern - what I mean is - how close a match will it be? Are they going to be expensive? Have you decided on a size yet? Sorry for the questions.
We tried to borrow an original wheel but no luck there. But we do have loads of photos so should be able to get pretty close. It’s basically a Kent jaguar alloy that’s been deep dished.
If it is a replica, the discussion about the wheel size is not there. It should be like the original. So if the original ones were 16", then they should be 16". Problem will be to get tires for that. So you might go 17". I think 19" is too large.
I gather that you are just trying to get the offsets ,height and widths right, and are going to get the original Steed style wheels custom made , which, for a replica will be ideal. In my opinion, I would go for 17 inch , that size wont really stand out much as being larger than whatever size was on the Steed car , which I'm guessing were 15 inch ? , or ,go for 18's if tyre availability dictates. I'd want as much sidewall as possible for a more comfortable ride , and for looking more correct. Although, I was thinking about the wheels on the other chaps car , if the wheel centres were silver, they'd resemble the alloy wheels that were on the Jag XJ13 , which look good , but, are they available in 17 or 18 inch ? By the way, did you consider that Porche "Brewster Green " that I suggested a while back ? 🙂👍
Thanks for the thoughts, I think you’re spot on. Trouble is with your Brewster green idea, is that I already painted the door jams and underbonnet so I’m committed to the Steed green. K rgds, Peter
The wheels must come flush with the arches. Looking down the side. If they protrude then it’s illegal but if they sit inside AT ALL it will look like a bread van! Please, never fit wheels that sit inbound! To get clearance you can stretch the tyres/fit a low profile. I hope the car is suspended on that lift in the video? If not, it needs lowering by AT LEAST 2” to look right. It’s a classic but higher profile tyres may rub but those fitted look too modern/not period. 19” rims, 35 profile, much lower suspension and spacers to fit the wheels flush should be a good compromise
Thanks so much for your comments. All makes sense. My car in the video still had the old bump stops - we hadn’t cut them yet - so we couldn’t lower it properly. Sorry, I didn’t make that clear. Thanks for watching , subscribe to see the car get finished.
Don't like the wheels, the black middle looks wrong, needs more chrome and more shape. Also agree 17in dia with higher profile tyre, say 50 or 60% would be better. Not whitewalls though!
There is something you guy's a re over looking. Back in the 70's 18 and 19 inch wheels did not exist outside of custom made race wheels. Back then up until the late 90's is 15 or 16 inch wheels only. I'm not counting the small car wheels. So given the purist that Robin is, you'd be upsetting him if you get it wrong by just overlooking history.
I know what you’re saying. But we can’t get the tyres for 16” which what the original was. So 17” seems to be the ideal. Hopefully, No one will notice an inch!
A friend of mine who is an excellent artist painted the Steed car on my bedroom wall almost full size . Now covered .Some day someone will find it. My 90y old father still lives in there . Lovin this 😊
Wow, now that’s a story! Thanks!
The difference between "oooh" and "ahhhh" is about an inch......
I would opt for the deeper walled tyre and a smaller wheel.
Yes I think so. & yes “ahhhh” is better than “oooh”!
@@sportscarstory"That's what she said ..."
The difference between oooh and ahhh is about an inch. 😂😂😂😂😂😂. Try 6 😂😂😂
17" with a taller sidewall would look better on your Steed replica.
16" would look a bit small.
19" would look too big for a Steed replica.
17" would still give you enough room within the wheel to fit 13 inch brake discs with a set of large 4-pot Brembo calipers.
I think you’re right about 19”. I am torn between 17” and 18”. I think it depends on the availability of tyres.
Thanks for watching!
@RichPober the correct size of wheel is the size if wheel the car manufacturer used....end of.
@@sportscarstory A video telling the history of "The John Steed Jag". I thought you'd enjoy this. 🙂
RUclips Video: ruclips.net/video/ruR_tyA-gik/видео.html
Best regards,
Ben
P.S. Whether you decide on 17" or 18" wheels...in my opinion...a tall, '70s-look sidewall tyre is most important.
Additionally, the brand of tyre should be Pirelli, Michelin or Good~Year...in my opinion. 🙂
Perhaps you can “reverse engineer”. Find the tyre profile that gives the right look then choose the wheel to fit. Perhaps use a plywood template sprayed black of the various tyre sizes available and put them in the wheel arches to check the visual appearance.
XJ6 C in my opinion is one of the most beautiful cars ever designed! Good luck with your work👍🏼👍🏼
Thankyou! It’s not work for me! Stay tuned for next instalment.
@@sportscarstory To resolve your quandary: There are exactly 8 vanes in the lower grill of The John Steed Jag.
Best regards,
Ben
@@sportscarstory PLEASE FORGIVE ME. I meant to type 9. There are exactly "9 vanes" in the lower grill.
I apologize for the typo. At my age, I should proof-read even the simplest sentences I write. 🙂
Best regards,
Ben
No, the wide Kent style alloys are a critical design element, in my opinion
Don’t worry, I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right.
@@sportscarstory I agree 100%. Any effort to replicate this iconic "John Steed Jag" without the correct
Kent Alloy Wheels is pointless & pissn' in the wind. As you know, these wheels are a profound requirement.
They make "the look"...uniquely impressive. There is no substitute. The same is true about the British Racing Green Paint.
You are building 1 of my top 5 dream cars. I'm green with envy. 🙂
Best regards,
Ben
i would go 17 inch with a little higher tires
✅
Agreed
Agreed. It needs a higher tyre wall otherwise it’s going to look too “modern”
Yes, def higher tyres. Probably 17” possibly 18’s if I can’t get the tyres. Originals were 16”
@@sportscarstory It’s a great project -congratulations. A Steed replica car would have pride of place in my dream garage. I have to admit, though, I preferred the original “Avengers” to the “New Avengers”. Combine Diana Rigg and the XJC in the one show and you’d have perfection! As far as I remember the “New Avengers” was a prime example of product placement, as all the principal characters drove BL cars.
Been looking foe something like this for a decade!
Great! I hope it lives up to your dream! Thanks for watching!
The new avengers was brilliant! I was 11 in the long hot summers of 76 & 77, with the silver jubilee street parties & royal mania, the character john steed seemed to be part of it. one thing I did notice being in the sign trade the number 8 is upside down on robins doors, the original race car is right way up. also the kerning between L & e, I know you do sometimes have to compromise with door gaps.
That’s interesting! Yes I remember that long hot summer. Halcyon days!
What a great idea
Thanks! It’ll be great when it’s done!
Thanks for the info! I appreciate it.
The race car is stunning what an investment ….
Thankyou! It’ll be great when it’s on the road!
Yes. Next stop, Vintage tyres to talk about availability.
I’ve been wanting to recreate a Steed car for a good number of years. The main thing stopping me is finding the right wheels, they have got to be of the original GKN deep dished design to look right. I’m interested in getting some made and spreading the cost, maybe they can be machined from billet if we find the right people.
Image wheels have said they will do it - for the right money. If we can get the size right first that will be great. Either 17” or 18” depending on tyre availability. Drop me a tweet @sportscarstory if you want to share costs. Thanks for watching!
Dave you know they need to be the original 16 x13
I have tried to contact this guy but my comment got deleted 🤷♂️
Surely with todays technology a set of original style wheels can be made.nothing is impossible
Don’t worry, they can be made , I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right.
@@sportscarstoryits amazing no original tech drawings remain from the original manufacturing,unless of course lost in a fire etc
Well the kit is made by Fibresports who got a set from someone who bought the originals from Broadspeed, but Broadspeed was a small company, so probably didn’t have tech specs on the wheels. Saying that, one person on RUclips has an original “Steed” wheel, so I’m pretty sure we will be faithful to the original car.
Excellent news,can’t wait for the end build
THANK YOU for another great video the car looks amazing. Congratulations to Robin on his car its a true work of passion. With regards to your car, the Wheels look great on the race car but I would stick with complete original look on the wheels taking advantage of modern tech and I would definitely go beige on green its just a classic look for the interior. What an amazing project thanks again for sharing Romano Palm Beach Florida
Thankyou! Yes I’m leaning towards the beige interior. More ££££’s - but I have to get it right!
@@sportscarstory If you have come this far its a BIG YES
Yes. Just have to find some money down the back of the sofa!
Excellent content! Great to see you back. :-)
Thanks. Longer delay than I wanted, but these projects tend to go at their own pace. We’ll get there though!
Hi it’s great to see the progress I just wanted to clarify some points wheel spacers don’t increase the load on the bearing it’s the offset of the wheel that should be the same as factory this will keep the bearing to the centre of the wheel so if you want the wheel to be wider outwards on the FRONT you need to increase it by the same percentage inwards this will keep it correct for your steering and bearing load. If you just add to the outside your steering would be all over the place, one thing designed into the front geometry is when you turn the steering from full left to full right the wheel should not rotate. So if you add 2” to the outer you need to add 2” inwards, so you might end up with a more wider wheel on the front that you thought but it will steer correctly so check your inner clearance, this doesn’t apply to the rear as it doesn’t steer but will apply to bearing loads if there is a big offset to the bearing not being in the centre of the wheel. As for spacers you can use them to correct the offset of wheels or include it in your calculations so you have the option to remove it if you find the wheel rubs on the outside this save you from having the wheels completely re made as you then have the option to remove it to go inwards without changing the wheel, so a bit of a safety net. You can readily get the wide rear tyres in 19”and not so much in 18” and hardly anything in 17” on the other gentleman’s car the height of the side wall was slightly less on the front than the rear as 40% of 225mm is less than 30% of 305mm width but all the tyres in 295 & 300 range are 30 & 35 profile. You could always go 18” front 19”rear a lot of split rim companies can do a 19” outer barrel that fits on a 18” centre so all your centres are the same it’s just the outer that is different that means you can have a taller profile on the front without being a bigger overall diameter than the rear as the front tyres are not so wide so there are more profile options check out tyres before wheel widths to see what you can get. If you want to contact me I am happy to talk I have added a tyre size calculator to help
tiresize.com/comparison/
Sorry, just seen this. Very helpful Thankyou!
Fantastic job ! Careful between 16"and 17", the Steed look was due in a big part to the small diameter wheels, those "sit" the car and made that incredible beastial personality.
Yes. Will try and get 16”s made - If I can get the tyres. Thanks for watching!
Definitely 17 with bigger aspect tyre
16 s back in the day was a very big wheel when most cars had 13 or 14 in wheels
Yes I think 17” or if I have to 18” is where I’m at depending on tyre availability.
There were more than one coupe done, a friend of mine had the red with black roof one.Identical to the steed one. About 1980 he lived in South Wales and had the car for a few years. Ironically he had the original x pack Escort featured at the start of the Minder program, before the Jag!.
I’d love to see that one. Are there any pics of it ?
Always go with getting the car driving right.
Yes, it has to drive as well as possible. Thanks for watching!
@sportscarstory Possibly You could fit some Wheel Spacers (When needed).
Also thin Wheel Spacers fitted to the front or back can help with handling.
Hi from NZ .I see that you are building a Broadspeed Coupe look-a-like. I had one made from a Fibersport kit and put it on an XJ6 series 2. It is a short wheel base car so the dimensions are as the coupe but as I didn’t like the look of the rear arches hanging over the rear doors I had the rear doors welded up so I have a home made coupe. As for wheels, I spoke to the owner of a proper Broadspeed in Oz (since sold) who said the tyres were not available now (2005) so I went for 18” made for me by Simmons (in Oz), 9” front and 11” rear. Tyres are 245x40 front and 285x35 rear. The front air dam is too low for a road car so I had it cut down by a fibreglass boat builder friend. The Australian Jaguar Magazine wrote and article on the car in edition 129, worth a look.
Sounds fantastic. I’d love to see photos. Is it on the internet? Or can you send me a few? You can DM me on X @sportscarstory. Thanks for your story!
the original rear bumper was fiberglass but i welded the 3 pieces together and painted it flat black
Thanks. Yes torn as to whether to adapt the bumper or go fibreglass. Steve at Fibresports says it depend on how easy it will be to put brackets on to attach fibreglass bumpers. I think 17” would be good - because I think you said the originals were 16”?
@@sportscarstory a welded steel bumper is MUCH stronger , specialy when you want to use it on the road , it ll be a real bumper , because a fiberglass one will break easy
, and yes the original wheels where 16 inch
Don’t go smaller than 18” x36
Stretch the tyres on the front (narrower than the wheel width) for clearance
Ok. The originals were 16” so might end up at 17” as we have to be as close as possible to the original car. It depends on tyre availability though.
In Central Florida following the build. A lot of places could probably make those wheels but yikes they'll be expensive!
Thanks for watching from sunny Florida! I’ve managed to get 3 people who want these wheels together, so hopefully we can share the development costs. We will be visiting Image wheels soon, so stay tuned!
Incredible content, something very very different.
Thankyou! Really appreciate it!
If you want a Steed car I'd say you deffo want Steed car wheels 💯
Yes they will be! Just trying to get the size right. Thanks for watching
@@sportscarstory 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
There are some pictures of the original steed car being restored on line with the outer rear arches not fitted yet and you can see how the inner rear arches are cut away.
Thanks, I’ll take a look.
17" would be the right size for an XJ
I think so too - I just have to check if I can get the right tyres for that size
@@sportscarstory Car is looking great BTW. I have a 76 XJS and hope to find a Series 2 XJ12 in future.
On Robin's replica the front and rear tyres have almost the same sidewall height, the front is 90mm, the rear 91.5mm.
Combined with the 19 inch wheels, this gives a total wheel/tyre height of 662mm and 665mm, or just over 26 inches.
The standard XJ12 tyre, 205/70 x 15", has a sidewall of 143.5mm, combined with the 15 inch wheel gives a total height of 668mm or just over 26.25 inches.
That’s useful info, thanks. Do you know the rolling radius’s of Robins car?
@@sportscarstory I think you just halve the total height for that, depends if you mean the loaded tyre radius, which itself depends on many factors such as weight of the car, tyre pressure, tyre construction, e.t.c.
If you are within 5% of the original diameter you will be fine.
Rule of Thumb for wheels: Half A profile-height up if you go from 19"to 18" with the same tyre-width.
On your car I would have gone for a higher tyre.
In front you could narrow the arch to match the wheel (will make it more driveable)
Thanks for the info. Keep watching, we’ll get it right!
Does anyone know what became of John Steeds Broadspeed Jag? Is it in a private collection, or was it scrapped after the TV series finished. This question may have been covered in these videos, but I'm a bit late to this party, sorry.
It was sold at auction in 2015 and there are pictures out there showing it being restored somewhere in the north of England. But still a mystery as to who owns it. Hopefully it’ll turn up. Thanks for watching!
ruclips.net/video/ruR_tyA-gik/видео.html
I’ve just Go**gled for images of the original car in action as filmed in the tv series ie stills taken from the tv film. There’s absolutely no doubt - the original car as it appears in the tv series has a beige interior!😊
I know. I’ve got to go beige at some point!
The wheels look great!
Thanks!
I’d imagine the original car had 15” rims as that was large at the time, at least here in the USA.
I think the race car has the wheel width down Pat so your Steed car would be sorted with his width.
A 17” or 18” would be the max wheel I’d go with. 17” tires are probably more available than other sizes but again that’s over on my side of the pond.
It’s getting there and I can’t wait to see this come together.
Thanks! I think the cars going to be great too! Yes, I think the wheels will be 17” or 18’s depending on tyre availability.
So glad you didn't go with the alloy dash, walnut looks lovely.
Thankyou! Because I’ve got someone doing the alloy, I’ll still show the two together, but yes going walnut! Thanks for watching!
Cars of that era look best with a thicker sidewall. Unlike the other commenter, sixteen inches is best. Though if you have already chosen the brakes and need the room, seventeen will work. Though to someone with a practiced eye, the sidewall will be too thin. As for fitment, you can always uses spacers to get the gap correct.
Thanks for your comment. As the original car had 16”, I think I can get away with 17’s. As there are more tyres available. Do you think that’ll look ok?
@@sportscarstory I understand the full importance of your query. First is the cost. One cannot simply go around buying all manner of rims. And, rims can make or break the look of a car.
Seventeens are a good compromise in that there are many tires for that size. And it allows larger brakes. You should able to find a tire with enough meat on the sidewall to look good as well ride well.
Great project car. The Avengers et al are amongst my favorite shows.
They really can for sure. I’m confident I’ll get it right though - I’m getting plenty of help!
@@sportscarstory Some many years ago Car & Driver did an experiment with rim and tire size. The optimum size is 17". Anything larger is more prone to breakage and wearing out suspension faster. This being all towards a street driven car.
Thanks. I’ll get there!
Wheels are actually an interesting choice, so wing it and see.
Will end up winging it a bit! Thanks for watching!
I would stick with the original look wheels that looks perfect 👍
Will try and get an accurate copy of the original wheels, prob just 1 or 2 inches bigger for practicality: tyre availability. So probably 17”. Thanks for watching! We’ll get there!
The last number on a tyre, before the diameter is the proportion of the width, eg 40 is 40% of the width, as your rim diameter decreases, you should increase the height proportion to keep the same rolling radius. I'd be concerned about having lower profile tyres when going out that wide due to the increased portional pressures on the axles. Would look great though
Thanks! So would you go 18” with higher tyres? Or even 17” ?
@sportscarstory I think the 17s would look more period, despite being bigger. You'll have a big wheel still with a better ride and less pressures running through the hub assembly etc. Awesome project though and loving the progress updates.
Thanks! I think if I can get the right tyres I’ll try and go 17”
Agree with most on here 17 maximum and the right design otherwise don’t bother 😅
Yes will get the design like the Steed car once we have the size right. Thanks for watching!
305/30R19 is 305mm tread width, 305*0.3 sidewall height (91.5mm) and 19" diameter wheels.
FWIW I doubt that the Steed car as originally built would have had anything bigger than 15" wheels unless it was fitted with racing wheels and tyres.
According to someone who has an original wheel, the steed car had 16” wheels which is an odd size. Which is why I’ll go for 17 or 18” to make the size as near as possible but also practical. Thanks for watching!
The wheels look good, but the steed wheels would finish the car and make it complete. Love the content and asking us for an opinion which is nice,but end of day it’s your creation and your doing great job,
Thanks! We’re just trying to nail the size, & then we’ll get the design as close to the Steed car as possible. Thanks for watching! Do subscribe as more coming.
17 inches is the way to go, you need a bit sidewall, then you need to find some closer looking replica wheels [275 40 17?]
original tyre profile of nearly all tyres sold was 82%, and it wasn't even stated on the tyre sidewall, ie 155 r 13, r was for radial. new tyres are 80% from start
Don’t worry, I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right. If I can get 17’s with the right rolling radius tyres, I think that’ll be the right option.
@@sportscarstory that's why i picked that size, pretty close + commercially available
Hmm the wheels do work, and they look like their off of the race car I pointed out, but I think if you go that way you gotta keep it red, as red and black work well together, green and black, not so much, and it looks like it might give the new fenders abit of trouble with the clearance
like it might need more backspacing, which is a shame as they look geniuenly good, and I wouldnt want to go smaller, but the smaller you go rim size wise, the more cushion and shielding the suspension has from the bumps in the road as you up the tire size to match the space left in the wheel well
but conversely with really large tires like this, you almost want a thin tire wall so it keeps the grip to the road given the pressure to space index
honestly above all else, I would take what he knows, and use that and then experiment
and that race car actually has the same size front tires my car is running with 18's, and that is a stock car from 3 years ago, well 4 now actually
also the wheels on the model when you look at the photo look to be a little off, and the car sits differently, its one inch above the front rims, but jacked up two inches in the back, plus the painted effects at 12:50, theirs actual painted stripes in the rims, and a faint bronzing to the inner rims in general
like almost a twisler type effect, and the rims on the actual car are about an inch bigger than the ones on the model, like the model looks closer to the race car here, its more square in the photo
also maybe you need to have a word with aston martin, and ask them for a deep dish version of the rims they used in 1976, as they look damn close, like look up ASTON MARTIN FACTORY 15"x7" LAGONDA ALLOY WHEELS RECONDITIONED on ebay, those look like a non deep dish version of them with less slots
and personally I would just leave the bumpers alone, as the chrome looks good on it
either that or fiberglass it but paint it gloss to keep that shine, maybe even fiberglass it but keep the overriders as it looks like its missing something
also by the way with what I said of the lotus and putting the elise engine in it with the bond esprit, the original engine those cars had, the K series from rover was made and designed around simplicity, and they dramatically simplified the wiring harness and the instrument cluster for it
to run off of one plug vs apparently, a full hundred for the one off of the esprit, atleast the 1990s one, as the books from 98' so if you go that route you might have to replace the instrument cluster with the one off the elise, which was made by a specific company in kent apparently if I'm remembering it correctly
think like the unit you saw on the caterhams, as i bet its the same group, and caterham might be a good source for an adaptive plug in and play wiring harness too given the nature of how they make those
also it seems like the elise in a way was kind of a remade esprit for simplicity and modern production standards, not explicitly said in the book but it kinda seems like it
also extremely cheap, as I saw one for 13 thousand pounds on the Co UK version of E-bay, while here its 35K plus for a latter american spec one with the toyota motor, they put in to counter the weight the added safety equipment and changes to the body
as I get the feeling they went away from Bonded aliumnium to straight wielded for our safety standards, which added to it like it did the renault sport spider, its competitor that richard hammond actually brought up when talking about his past in an interview I saw recently
as he worked for Renault before men and motors, and mentioned the sheer failure of that car given its close release to the elise
and that construction change made it slower than the elise by a considerable margin, even though literally the same company made the chasis, it was just one was bonded with glue and then fasteners, the elise, the other wielded, which adds a ton of weight apparently
which might explain why the bond vanquish is the same way, as they took the production methods from Lotus, and somehow that thing weighed like 4,000 pounds, and yet its made out of alumiumn, like how does that work, turns out that's how
which might explain why I remember harry bringing up how nice the original elise was with the old engine, despite it only being a 130 horses, not too far off of the one for the original Esprit really
granted those could have been mystical ones where it was said to be double what it actually was, which would explain the performance figures with its proported 160, and what everyone says of them now, which would put it 40 over
and also with the esprit, the 1990's one, Tavarish had one in and was trying to fix it, and he gave up, as he kept finding glue, fasteners, glue and fasteners, and it was very much built like a delorean with wood and everything
which apparently was built in the lotus factory with the first ones, and was literally just a turned around Esprit with the engine in the trunk, hence the weird a arm design its got that's more suited to the front with the steering, than the rear where the power goes
and that was an 89/90 refit car, the one with the, I wouldnt say ugly, but lacking in beauty new version of it with the worked over body that eventually got turned into the V8
so you might run into that with the original depending how they did it, like their might legit be plywood in there holding the body together
which you most certainly wouldnt expect with a 1990 car like that, but it had only been a few years since the delorean failure and if it worked their was no reason to change it, given they were never designed for long term service and replacibility
granted lotus with the S1 was built when Rolls Royce owned the company, so it might share more with the ash frames and the like of that more than anything else, like an old derby bentley
Thanks for all the info. I’ll check out the Lagos’s wheels and see if they’re right. It will save a lot of money. As for the Lotus, I m just having a look at it now it’s safely in my garage. More videos coming! Thanks for watching & info
Loving the progress , the wheels need to be identical to Steeds jag otherwise it’s just not right, I think the wheels will make or break this project, loving what you are doing though 👍👍👍
Yes completely agree. Just trying to get the size right, but the design will be identical. Thanks for watching!
The 19's look nice but I think 18" with a 40 profile tyre would be the way to go with your build.
Yes I’m leaning that way. Thanks for watching.
When I saw the Steed XJ in 1979-80 ish it had its original 15"' diameter GKN alloy wheels on it , pretty sure it was running 50 series Dunlop wet racing tyres. To build an accurate replica you should go 15'' to be period correct . B F Goodrich still do wide radial TA road legal tyres in 255 50 15 and 275 50 15 they are only SR rated though which may be a problem If you intend to top end it.
Thanks for that. I’ll probably go 17” because of tyre availability. Do you think your eye will see the difference?
@@sportscarstory I would be able to so yes. 16'' not so much.
I saw Robins car at Gaydon today. No idea how he turned up without me hearing the arrival
Wow ! I’d love to see his parked next to the museums car.
Hey FYI with the wheels again, I was just looking and I think what they might have done is just a custom version of some OEM jaguar rims, as I found one marked as Jaguar XJS style of all things, and its like a flat version of what's on the car, like I think what they did is just made a custom version probably using the broadspeed's setup, of tire, depth, and all that as the base
and how funny is it that I found that simply because I always get the Nomanclanture mixed up, and keep thinking XJS instead of XJC
like put in NEW Classic JAGUAR XJS Style, 6x15 Wheel Fits For XJ Series 1-3 Rims JAXJ615
on the flea as old' archy luxury used to call it, and that looks like it just flat, and with the inserts painted black, instead of the bronze they used for the stripe
so they might have just rebarrled the thing, and put in a deeper dish, styled like the old to reach the bolts,
so it should give you a design prototype to work off of, as its definitely a custom version of the factory OEM rim that they probably made just for the show
after all british leeland was sponsoring the show and had them and the rover SD1's, Triumph's, and all that running around, would make sense that they would do something like that for them, like it might have been a 3 piece job
which would also explain why its been such a pain to replicate, it might have literally been a factory one off made just for the car,
and could explain some of the wonky driving physics knowing leeland back then if they didnt do them right
after all its come back to longbridge!
ITS ON STRIKE lol
Yes you’re probably right about them being one off. If you look at pics of the first race car , it had the Steed wheels which were very like the Kent XJS alloys but deep dished. Subscribe to see the next instalment when I get the wheels made. Thanks for watching!
A difficult balance between authenticity, availability and cost. Ultimately you should go with what you’re happy with but for me, a smaller diameter wheel closer in design to the original GKN’s with higher profile rubber keeps it in period & avoids the incongruity of a larger diameter/wider rim with a very low profile tyre, particularly for this road car iteration.
Thanks. Yes probably going to go with slightly bigger than the odd sized original wheels, but not as big as Robins, but the same rolling radius. Just got to get the design right now! Thanks for watching, stay subscribed to see the final result!
Perhaps you could “reverse engineer” by settling on the tyre profile first then find /have made the wheel to fit? I suspect that the availability of tyre size is going to more restricted than the availability of the wheel as you can ultimately have the wheel made but you can’t have the tyre made. How about making up plywood templates of the various tyre profiles and trying them under the wheel arches to settle on the look? That’s got to be cheaper than buying several sets of tyres to try out! I suggest concentrating on tyre profiles with a higher sidewall, as anything too low profile is simply going to look too modern on a 70’s era car.
I’m going to get Ben from Vintage Tyres to bring a selection along. We’ll get there! Thanks for your ideas, keep watching!
@@sportscarstoryAlways helps to have friends in the right places!😊 Good luck with the choice.
Thanks! Need to get on with the wheels project but I’m v busy at the moment.
The front spoiler is just about spot on to my way of thinking.
Not wishing to sound negative,but those wheels are not my cup of tea,question for you part one do you need alloys?.
Part two have you thought about the possibility of having banded steels ,which to my way of thinking are more in keeping with the age of the car regardless of the modifications,the kit now it's fitted suits very well I think.
Good point. I’m obsessed with getting the wheel size right at the moment. I’ll move on to the design and materials next. Thanks for watching! More to come!
Take a look at some of thee wheels that Aston have used on the racing DBs and don't forget the Early V8s
Understand completely about getting the wheel size right however it's a jaguar and at the end of the day you want it to ride like one ,smaller wheels /17 and a more compliant side wall.
Just lower the chassis 5 or 6cm and the wheels will fit nicely! It looks like you have plenty of steer clearance forward and there's no need for flairs in the rear!...✌
Yes will have to lower the chassis. Thanks for watching!
Apparently, the explanation for the tramlining on the original Steed car was as follows. The wheels were race wheels, so the only tyres available were race tyres. To make it road legal, they had to fit wet-weather tyres...
Ahh that’s interesting. Makes sense.
actualy they narrowed the wheels to fit on the normal road suspension , because the original size would never have fit , and because they narrowed them ( only on the inside ) the car tramlined like crazy as it had the compleet wrong offset ,,, the tires where some sort of american tires , also a reason they had to narrow them , to get some tires to fit the wheels
All makes sense. Thanks!
Can't wait to see how this turns out - can't you do this project any quicker??? 😅
I can’t wait either! But it’s out of my hands! I’m trying to push though. Please stay tuned.
I think you will need to work from the pictures for the wheels. The Steed wheels were unique. You can see them on the race car 001 at the launch which is on RUclips. These are the launch wheels that were later used on the Steed car. Unlike the wheel modelmania has, the Steed car wheels are alloy. The wheel modelmania has is from 001 but later when they were changed from alloy to Magnesium and painted black (you can't polish magnesium) and changed both in design and offset and had slots cut into them for brake cooling. So that wheel won't really give you exactly what you need and its better to work from pictures. Both wheels were made by GKN (the original testing was done on BBS but as they were German, GKN were asked to make some bespoke wheels). So the only set of Steed wheels that exist to that design and offset are on the Steed car as they were taken off the race car 001 once it moved to Magnesium. The two 77 cars, one of which is 003 that you went to see, were made by Speedline and were 19 inch. The 19 inch was to stop the tyres rotating on the rims which was a big issue with cross-ply slicks and 600bhp by then. (you can tell the original wheels as they have four clamps on them to hold the tyres on and stop slipping) Sadly the wheels on 003 have been changed (by Image I think though I am not sure) as the tyres were made especially by Dunlop (nobody had 19 inch wheels then) and are not available. JDHT wanted to use the car for demonstrations so had some wheels made to fit tyres that were available (Avons I think) but the offset both front and rear is wrong as ModelMania has correctly said. Originally the centres of the Speedlines were gold but then were painted black as the brake dust from the water cooled brakes turned them black anyway. The only place to see the original wheels and offsets for the 77 cars is on the other 77 car, 004 which is still entirely original. The front is not nearly as inset and the rear misses the arch - though not by much. The problem you have with what you have done with your car for clearance is that not enough metal has been removed from the rear wings. There are no wheel liners or the wheels would foul the arches on the front. But you will need to modify the front suspension to allow for the different offset to avoid bump steer. If you want the car to actually perform you will need to start making modifications as per Broadspeed and change the radius arm for a link that does not twist the suspension as you will lose contact patch on a wide tyre otherwise. Broadspeeds have no bushes at al and are metal to metal rose jointed everywhere. One final point, the arches you have are the 77 arches that are designed for the Speedline 19 inch wheels and are not the same as the arches on the Steed car. The arches you have are a bit more aggressive and less rounded and a bit bigger than the Steed car. You mentioned the inboard rear brakes. Obviously inboard brakes are a big advantage due to unsprung weight. There are heat issues for the diff particularly - which are worse on a Broadspeed due to power and weight than they are on say a lightweight e type which has the same system. You will see on a lightweight e type either a bootlid vent or on the earlier cars just a propped open bootlid to let the heat out. Broadspeeds had to have fans and water cooling to improve this and avoid cooking the diff. That was a problem largely solved and did not really contribute to the unreliability which was either down to the DFV dry sump pump which could not cope with the amount of oil or the magnesium uprights which Jaguar would not homologate to improve and were not strong enough. That said you will see on the inside of 003 you looked at, a big diff temperature gauge in the middle.
That’s so interesting! I can’t do anything about the arches I’ve got now, but it explains a lot. It probably means if I go to 17” or even 18” wheels it will look right compared to the real Steed car because my arches are bigger. Would you agree? I wouldn’t mind having a chat if you can message me through twitter / X ? @sportscarstory. Thanks so much for taking the time to send this message. K rgds, Peter
It could be an optical illusion, but do the wheel arches look a bit square compared to the wheels? Probably my dodgy eyesight…
Not sure. I think they’re slightly squarer than the wheel but they still follow it around. What’s your thoughts on wheel size?
@@sportscarstory genuinely thank you for that patient reply. What you’ve got is as good as you’re going to get, the wheels fill the arches convincingly and give a great stance.
Yeah smaller (17in?) wheels and more rubber to fill the arches. Your back will thank you and it will look more period correct.
Will do. Just need the right combination. I’ll get there! Thanks for watching!
@@sportscarstory it’s going to be very cool - can’t wait. I’m sure you’ll have seen Harry Metcalfe’s revitalised V12 coupe. A different direction but lots of shared DNA, mainly in the great proportions and details. Best looking British saloon(/coupe) of the era?
I think the coupe XJ has perfect proportions- in my mind only bettered by the broadspeed/ steed racer.
There will be compromises but for me the original "Kent " wheels are desirable . Will you, do you have the steel sliding roof on yours ? And lets hope you don't need to remove the tanks !!!
No I don’t have a sunroof- but going by what people are telling me about roof cracking, that’s no bad thing. I believe I have relatively new tanks. Yes got to go for deep dished Kent alloys. Thanks for watching, stay subscribed if you want to see the next instalment.
WheelMania seem to be the YT builders choice and go to guys for wheels...
Thanks. I spoke to WheelMania, but they don’t go less than 18’s - and they pushed me in the direction of Image wheels ( very paly with each other) thanks for watching!
As others have said, to me modern low profile tyres look wrong, otherwise it’s great
Thanks! Yes need higher profile tyres. We’ll get there!
You're going all out to make it look identical to the steed Car so I think you've got to go 16 inch with a higher tyre profile
Yes. Either 16” or possibly 17” if I can’t get the tyres for 15”. Thanks for watching!
Is that cracking on the rear arch of the museum car? Looks like that or a very poor, wrinkly vinyl wrap, which I’m sure it’s not. I’d imagine for race purposes they would make the fibreglass as thin and light as possible, but for a show car you want them to be thicker and more durable. Many years ago I owned a Lotus Esprit S2 and discovered one of the problems of owning an earlier classic Elite or Elan was the arches/wings developing star cracks in the fibreglass where stones etc would be thrown up from the road. The Esprit had an inner skin/arch which prevented the problem, and I seem to recall owners of the older cars glued pads inside their arches to prevent the problem recurring after a restoration. I really admire and envy what you are doing with this recreation. I loved the Steed car too - such an imaginative and appropriate update on the Bentley. Do we know whose idea it was? And have you got the right mirrors for the doors? That’s one thing that looks so wrong on Harry’s XJC. They sit at an awkward angle and just don’t look right. I have the 1/18 model and am curious when you refer to basing the build on that. It’s a “perfect” or perfected version of the car. The slats on the real thing never looked as perfect on the real car. I wouldn’t have thought counting them would present a problem as you mention. I very much look forward to seeing your car when finished. I own a dark metalic MG TF mainly as a result of loving the Steed car. With the body coloured hardtop on, if you have an overly developed imagination, it looks a little like an XJC 😉
Yes the museum car def had crazing. Someone has since told me they fitted oversized tyres to it. Thanks for watching!
@@sportscarstory The filler cracked on 003 after the Nurburgring which it finished second. That's the Flugplatz for you. All four wheels off the ground every lap. 004 doesn't have the cracking because it retired after the opening lap. On the other hand 004 set a Group 2 lap record (with John Fitzpatrick driving) from a standing start on that opening lap before it retired. It was 20 seconds faster than the nearest BMW in just that one lap of the Ring.
I’m a keen motorsport fan. When you see the race cars in the paddock you can notice the flaws that can’t be seen when they are out on the track. The Museum car is not a show car as such, but the actual race car, flaws and all. As Innes Ireland once said, Colin Chapman’s ideal race car would be so light that it would win the race and then immediately fall apart!
Sorry about the expense but it’s got to be a beige interior!
I think you’re right!
@@sportscarstory I’ve just Go****led for images of the original car in action during filming of the TV series . No doubt about it - it’s a beige interior!
Yes for sure
A higher profile tire would look better. Those wheels are too low profile. It just don’t look right.
The car looks fab though 😊👌 A stunner
Yes I think you’re right. Thanks for watching!
Not sure if those wheels are the way to go if you are trying to stay faithful to the model. The ones on the model look a little like Kent’s on steroids. V nice.
Don’t worry, I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right.
the wheels are nice in 19 inches but it has to be repainted to match John Steed's car.original look, black hubs arent right.
Don’t worry, I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right.
I think the wheels on Steads Jag look better tbh or some old skool wolfrace wheels
Yes will look like the Steed wheels by the time we’re finished. Just the dilemma over size.
I know an Ex Broadspeed employee who stays near Northampton.....an Engine Guru.
That’s interesting. Can you get him to watch my videos? Any information, gratefully received.
@sportscarstory this guy designs engines.
He is only interested in Engines.
Oh fair enough. He must have some great stories though!
@sportscarstory He may be retired.
I can't see him ever looking at RUclips.
His Engines outperform all the present day stuff.
It would be better with like for like wheels as on steed car if you are doing the replica
I agree. Just need to get the size that looks right, but is also practical. Getting there! Thanks for watching.
The wheels your car currently look small and inset… but I think half the issue is the profile of the tyre as you say in the video. The tyres on your car currently have a much lower profile than the Steed car. Keep the rolling radius of the race car and look for 65/60/50 profile tyre (with the appropriate cross section) and see what rime size the tyres require. The Steed/GKN/Kent alloys are SOOO much nicer wheel design. The guys at Image Wheels international ltd are supposed to be ace at this fitment sizing quandary.
Yes I’m going to image wheels next. Stay tuned, thanks for watching !
@@sportscarstory On their website they have some good fitting information that you may care to look at. I think the page is called “ alloy wheel technically “.
I’ll have a look. Thanks!
@@sportscarstory OK .. On their Kent Billet Alloy Wheel page they have a banner at the top that reads “THE OUTER RIM DISH SIZE WILL VARY FROM CAR TO CAR DEPENDENT ON DIMENSION 'C' - SEE INFO / TECHNICAL.”
Click on the “SEE INFO / TECHNICAL” part.
Rgds
Thanks. I’m on it.
the offset of the rear wheels on the museum car is wrong ,, they had the rear wheels remade in 2006 or somewhere around that time , and they got the offset wrong , so don't look at that one plz
Thanks for that. Yes it looked like the rears were pushed out an inch too far. They look amazing though!
If you are building a Steed car, then you need the Steed wheels, else it will just be a green Broadspeed
For sure. I’m getting the Steed wheels made. There are now 3 of us sharing the costs. Please subscribe to see the finished article- probably sometime next year. Thanks for watching!
@@sportscarstory How have you got the pattern - what I mean is - how close a match will it be? Are they going to be expensive? Have you decided on a size yet? Sorry for the questions.
We tried to borrow an original wheel but no luck there. But we do have loads of photos so should be able to get pretty close. It’s basically a Kent jaguar alloy that’s been deep dished.
The design part will probably be £6k ish
@@sportscarstory great, will look forward to seeing them
If it is a replica, the discussion about the wheel size is not there. It should be like the original. So if the original ones were 16", then they should be 16". Problem will be to get tires for that. So you might go 17". I think 19" is too large.
I agree. I think 17” is the right compromise. Thanks for watching!
I gather that you are just trying to get the offsets ,height and widths right, and are going to get the original Steed style wheels custom made , which, for a replica will be ideal. In my opinion, I would go for 17 inch , that size wont really stand out much as being larger than whatever size was on the Steed car , which I'm guessing were 15 inch ? , or ,go for 18's if tyre availability dictates. I'd want as much sidewall as possible for a more comfortable ride , and for looking more correct. Although, I was thinking about the wheels on the other chaps car , if the wheel centres were silver, they'd resemble the alloy wheels that were on the Jag XJ13 , which look good , but, are they available in 17 or 18 inch ? By the way, did you consider that Porche "Brewster Green " that I suggested a while back ? 🙂👍
Thanks for the thoughts, I think you’re spot on. Trouble is with your Brewster green idea, is that I already painted the door jams and underbonnet so I’m committed to the Steed green. K rgds, Peter
@@sportscarstory Yes , I remember that you'd already done the door jambs in mettalic green ,I think that colour will be fine .👍
@@sportscarstoryThe Steed green on the model car ? , I think Steeds real car was non mettalic.
Yes I think the Steed car wasn’t metallic , but I’ve gone with as close to the model as possible.
@@sportscarstory 👍
Wheels don't look right on a road car. Needs a correct replica.
Don’t worry, I’m going reproduce the Kent style Steed alloys. I’m just trying to get the size right.
Looking great, not a fan of the wheels on it, prefer the style on the model. Just my opinion.
Don’t worry, these are borrowed wheels to work out the right size. I will be doing the Steed GKN design. Thanks for watching/worrying!
Yes agree the wheels are not right. Have be larger. The steed wheels actually don’t look that great either
Sorry the wheels do not get my vote - go with the Steed wheels
Don’t worry, I’m going to do a Steed wheel, I’m just trying to get the dimensions right. Thanks for watching!
The wheels must come flush with the arches. Looking down the side. If they protrude then it’s illegal but if they sit inside AT ALL it will look like a bread van!
Please, never fit wheels that sit inbound! To get clearance you can stretch the tyres/fit a low profile.
I hope the car is suspended on that lift in the video?
If not, it needs lowering by AT LEAST 2” to look right.
It’s a classic but higher profile tyres may rub but those fitted look too modern/not period.
19” rims, 35 profile, much lower suspension and spacers to fit the wheels flush should be a good compromise
Thanks so much for your comments. All makes sense. My car in the video still had the old bump stops - we hadn’t cut them yet - so we couldn’t lower it properly. Sorry, I didn’t make that clear. Thanks for watching , subscribe to see the car get finished.
Don't like the wheels, the black middle looks wrong, needs more chrome and more shape. Also agree 17in dia with higher profile tyre, say 50 or 60% would be better. Not whitewalls though!
Don’t worry, those wheels were to just get the size right. Will now get a copy done of the original Steed wheels. Thanks for watching!
Not the same wheels as the Avenger's car. Personally, I'd go for the same.
Will do. Just want to get the size right for best tyre availability. The design is going to be a copy of the origina. Subscribe to see!
Its such a shame that they didnt show more of the wheel in this video. ruclips.net/video/f2FVkLW_9AQ/видео.htmlsi=xUx7TMNyeS3p63ZS&t=41
Apologies. Hopefully we will show more of the design in the next video when we talk to Image wheels.
There is something you guy's a re over looking. Back in the 70's 18 and 19 inch wheels did not exist outside of custom made race wheels. Back then up until the late 90's is 15 or 16 inch wheels only. I'm not counting the small car wheels. So given the purist that Robin is, you'd be upsetting him if you get it wrong by just overlooking history.
I know what you’re saying. But we can’t get the tyres for 16” which what the original was. So 17” seems to be the ideal. Hopefully, No one will notice an inch!
Don't change the wheels for a touring car style, they're a big part of " the look" of the car. Just sayin'.
I agree. I’m just getting the size right now . Then we’ll get a design that matches the Steed car made. Thanks for watching!
why wreck a beautyfull car !!! to make a fugly eyesore !
It’ll be lovely. Promise!
Wheels a a bit American hot rod looking.
Yes I suppose.
wheels don't work at all- either look like the original or go home
I’m only looking g st sizes at the moment. Will get them designed like the originals