Mate!! You're having a go!! And I bet when you're done no untrained eye will even notice. And when it comes up in conversation at car shows/events you can say "Yeah I did that, came up alright".
I would be over the moon if we can get to that stage, bit of patience and I think we got this! Thanks mate, the comments on this have really encouraged me to keep at it 👍
Good to see you having a go at repairing! . Using a strip disk is a good idea too! (Best option in my opinion) . Just a little helpful advice incase you're unsure of your next move: acrylic primer in a can for now will help you see where the dents are , don't be scared to throw some on as thinners will take it off if need be . Buy yourself a couple speed files (short and long) they're cheap enough and will work as good as any block for you at the moment . 90% of panel repair tools are customised! , so don't be discouraged by making something to suit your needs . Body filler is not the enemy when used correctly (nearly every car on the road has some , actually 99.999% of show cars will have some somewhere ) if looking for the best type , 3m platinum is a pretty safe bet and very easy to work with . Make sure you mask anything up that you don't want primer/paint on in the area you're using it (and if taking things off the car like c pillar plastics is easier than trying to mask it up properly , than do it! ) . Don't rush , speed comes with experience! Process of repair to give you direction: Strip panel back , knock it out as best as possibe , epoxy prime , sand (oscillator and 120grit) , fill ... sand ... fill ... sand until you feel reasonably happy with panel (using oscillator and speed files ranging in 80 to 320 grit) , prime , sand (with speed file and 320grit , then if happy some 400 wet and dry and a hard block) , prime again , block it back with hard block and 600 , paint! . (Sorry if this post is hard to read , it's a bit 'off the cuff , hopefully it helps though! ) oh and it might pay for you to go check out 'the gunman' on here , he covers this sort of work pretty well 👍
Mate you're a legend! I had meant to go back to your last comment and let you know that hey, it sure looks like you were right to not replace the quarter. Time will tell yet but looking like we'll get it good enough from here, and I will absolutely be referring back to this post a heap of times through the process I'm sure to keep some direction - a LOT of help there for me. Not only that, you've given me a bit of confidence, and motivation to keep going. Acrylic primer is a killer idea rather than going through the proper primer just yet, will do that shortly so I can have a bit more of a play metal working it. Have been watching a bit of Gunman and a few others and will check more out in the coming weeks, with so much to learn though I'm just going to have to get stuck in and learn the hard way too at some point! Really appreciate you taking the time and laying it out as well as you have for a hack like me, so thank you again.
Maaaaaaaate!!! You are having a go at it! That's brilliant. I have a few things that will help you if you're interested. Get back to me if they can be used.
Every small thing done, is one more improvement, or one less thing to do later, one day at a time, you might find it easier to straighten the side panel if you push the bottom off the rear panel out allowing the side to pop out?just a suggestion old wind up jack's work on their side, most Hydraulic fail after a wile, all the best to you and your loved ones
I've got a ea x cop car. I do the same small bits at a time I wasn't satisfied with the engine bay took me ages to find a factory battery box cover then it made it 100% better haha
I had someone rear end my kingswood many years ago which rippled the whole left rear quater panel, I used a 3 ton bottle jack and a thick length of timber between the pillar in the boot and the bumper mount inside the boot to push it back out.
It's coming along Browney this sortable shit takes an age mate I beat up on an old XB some years ago ..but it is good for stress 😆 LOL John ..willaura...
Enjoyed the content again. On an unrelated note, I once had a manual EA S pack, and still have a manual AUXR8. Both of those have had the firewall fatigue and need re-enforcing where the clutch cable comes through. Have yo had that issue with the EB?
I haven't fortunately, broke a cable but never the firewall. Partly because it wasn't manual converted for much of it's life and partly because I made my own plate to reinforce it, something similar to the ones TI Performance now sell - www.tiperformance.com.au/products/ea-au-falcon-firewall-clutch-cable-reinforcement-plate/
Mate!! You're having a go!! And I bet when you're done no untrained eye will even notice. And when it comes up in conversation at car shows/events you can say "Yeah I did that, came up alright".
I would be over the moon if we can get to that stage, bit of patience and I think we got this! Thanks mate, the comments on this have really encouraged me to keep at it 👍
has he stopped making videos?? i would love an update on this build
Nothing wrong with having a crack at it yourself.
Good to see you having a go at repairing! . Using a strip disk is a good idea too! (Best option in my opinion) . Just a little helpful advice incase you're unsure of your next move: acrylic primer in a can for now will help you see where the dents are , don't be scared to throw some on as thinners will take it off if need be . Buy yourself a couple speed files (short and long) they're cheap enough and will work as good as any block for you at the moment . 90% of panel repair tools are customised! , so don't be discouraged by making something to suit your needs . Body filler is not the enemy when used correctly (nearly every car on the road has some , actually 99.999% of show cars will have some somewhere ) if looking for the best type , 3m platinum is a pretty safe bet and very easy to work with . Make sure you mask anything up that you don't want primer/paint on in the area you're using it (and if taking things off the car like c pillar plastics is easier than trying to mask it up properly , than do it! ) . Don't rush , speed comes with experience!
Process of repair to give you direction:
Strip panel back , knock it out as best as possibe , epoxy prime , sand (oscillator and 120grit) , fill ... sand ... fill ... sand until you feel reasonably happy with panel (using oscillator and speed files ranging in 80 to 320 grit) , prime , sand (with speed file and 320grit , then if happy some 400 wet and dry and a hard block) , prime again , block it back with hard block and 600 , paint! .
(Sorry if this post is hard to read , it's a bit 'off the cuff , hopefully it helps though! ) oh and it might pay for you to go check out 'the gunman' on here , he covers this sort of work pretty well 👍
Mate you're a legend! I had meant to go back to your last comment and let you know that hey, it sure looks like you were right to not replace the quarter. Time will tell yet but looking like we'll get it good enough from here, and I will absolutely be referring back to this post a heap of times through the process I'm sure to keep some direction - a LOT of help there for me.
Not only that, you've given me a bit of confidence, and motivation to keep going. Acrylic primer is a killer idea rather than going through the proper primer just yet, will do that shortly so I can have a bit more of a play metal working it.
Have been watching a bit of Gunman and a few others and will check more out in the coming weeks, with so much to learn though I'm just going to have to get stuck in and learn the hard way too at some point!
Really appreciate you taking the time and laying it out as well as you have for a hack like me, so thank you again.
@@BrowneysGarage happy to help mate , if you get stuck on anything just yell out , I'll do my best to help 👍
Maaaaaaaate!!! You are having a go at it! That's brilliant. I have a few things that will help you if you're interested. Get back to me if they can be used.
Yep, let's give it a crack! Thank you sir, I'm on it.
At least you had a crack I don’t have the know how or balls to attempt to do body work I appreciate what panel beaters have to deal with
Likewise mate, this is 100% learning as I go now!
Gotta love good old bog 😂
No I don't 😭🤣
Every small thing done, is one more improvement, or one less thing to do later, one day at a time, you might find it easier to straighten the side panel if you push the bottom off the rear panel out allowing the side to pop out?just a suggestion old wind up jack's work on their side, most Hydraulic fail after a wile, all the best to you and your loved ones
I think we've got lucky and will get it out enough without that, cracker idea if we ever need it though! Thanks mate, all the best to you as well 👍
Browny you gives us hacks a give it a go attitude, you just never know we might just get it right cheers
Glad to pay it forward, it's only from watching others/some of the kind comments that I even started to think any of this was possible!
Great job mate👍
Mayby undercoat the panel b4 starts to surface rust depending how long u get back to it
I've got a ea x cop car. I do the same small bits at a time I wasn't satisfied with the engine bay took me ages to find a factory battery box cover then it made it 100% better haha
I had someone rear end my kingswood many years ago which rippled the whole left rear quater panel, I used a 3 ton bottle jack and a thick length of timber between the pillar in the boot and the bumper mount inside the boot to push it back out.
Ouch! Yeah I got lucky compared to that, seems to be a heap of ‘improvising’ when it comes to this sort of thing 🤣
Yeah do what ya gotta do to make it better
Should have used some Paint stripper on the headers first! Save yourself the mess
Didn’t think of that and may have helped, but damn I hate paint stripper and I’m sure I would have made even more mess with it 🤣
It's coming along Browney this sortable shit takes an age mate I beat up on an old XB some years ago ..but it is good for stress 😆 LOL
John ..willaura...
Takes forever - but I guess most things with cars do! Will be worth it eventually.
Thanks John 👍
6 or 7mm isn't a lot...... speak for yourself 🤣😅😂
Another great video man, thanks.
Every little bit counts mate 🤣
Thanks man.
High fill
I wish you kept those headers polished
Love the vids keep ‘em coming 👍
Enjoyed the content again. On an unrelated note, I once had a manual EA S pack, and still have a manual AUXR8. Both of those have had the firewall fatigue and need re-enforcing where the clutch cable comes through. Have yo had that issue with the EB?
I haven't fortunately, broke a cable but never the firewall. Partly because it wasn't manual converted for much of it's life and partly because I made my own plate to reinforce it, something similar to the ones TI Performance now sell - www.tiperformance.com.au/products/ea-au-falcon-firewall-clutch-cable-reinforcement-plate/
what is that blue called on the rocker cover
Not sure sorry, was painted 10-15 years ago! Was just an off the shelf rattle can though so not anything special.
What was the sleeve that you put over the cruise cable?
Was fibreglass and silicone heat proofing sleeve. Not sure on make or size, just some scrap I had there from years ago.