Almost all of my gating work is done with the hot wire. The Y branches are just cut freehand. I usually just start cutting and piecing things together with intuitive thoughts of promoting smooth laminar flow and enough strength to survive the application of refractory coating......sort of fun. Best, Kelly
Another great video. I think you might know more about casting than some casters I've worked with. Impressive attention to detail. Keep them coming! P.S. Birds chirping as you poored was the perfect commentary to all of this and foreshadowing as to whether it'd go well. Cool video!
People do get a kick out of watching me pour outside my garage on my residential driveway. I have had life long friends in the foundry industry, have tried to learn and apply professional processes, and make practical compromises for the home/hobby environment. The general theme of my videos is lost foam is a viable method for making complex castings for the hobbyists. I'll have some other neat castings in the not too distant future I'm sure you will recognize. Thanks for the comment K. Best, Kelly
im curious about the process you briefly touched on in the slideshow- the shims and epoxy etc for joinging the two pieces together. im curious about the specifics, maybe you could go into more detail about that process and its advantages in the future (vs just screwing and popping in some dowell pins)
There are many epoxy systems for metal bonding. They are commonly used in the aerospace and automotive industry. The strength and performance varies considerably with joint thickness. Without some method to control joint thickness, the compression from fasteners would just displace most of the glue and the joint thickness would be uncontrolled. I used shim stock to make small washers, to join the two castings and then I bought a large number of same online at McMaster Carr for the skins because I didn't feel like punching 130+ of them. Sometimes I've used pieces of wire as a second best choice but it at least keeps you in the optimal range for joint thickness. Besides joint thickness, surface preparation is important. Clean and free of grease, but media blasting, etching, or abrasive paper is suitable. Best, Kelly
I use CamBam (CB) for CAM. It has a rudimentery CAD capability....2D and very limited 3D profile revolutions and extrusions. This part used CamBam for CAD and CAM. The CAM on this part was all 2.5D. CB has 3D machining capability and does pretty much all I need on the CAM front. Not quite a year ago, I started using Alibre for 3D CAD modeling. I't's in the same league as Solid Works and Fusion as a parametric 3D modeler, but you can own the software, your work, and is much less expensive. I have a couple more complex casting projects in the works that I modeled in Alibre. There will be a video in th enot too distant future. Best, Kelly
Loving the videos, i myself have another lost foam project coming up. I’d love some feedback on my 3D model or any wisdom you’re willing to pass on prior to me casting. If you’re too busy though, no worries.
I have never found such and it's a thinly published subject. I do have a number of threads on www.TheHomeFoundry.com. Not much reads across from AFS or Naturally pressurized gating theory because those systems are based upon gravity and cross section/velocity through open cavity whereas in Lost Foam, the metal front proceeds at the rate foam is evaporated which in general is much lower velocity than open cavity systems. Lost foam gating can also consider added strength for treeing multiple patterns and refractory dip coating. Best, Kelly
If I don't have a CAD model, I just measure and break it up into rough LxWxH planks, add up all the volume, and multiply by the density of aluminum ~.1lb/in3. Then I usually increase that by 25%. I have a scale to weigh the melt/charge. Also, A series crucibles designate the lbs of aluminum.....i.e. a full A10 is 10lbs, an A20 20lbs, etc. Best, Kelly
Not sure about the "cement" but you can use the non-setting joint finishing drywall compound and dilute with water to a thin brushable viscosity. Best, Kelly
Would your setup with the coating work with cast iron? Your forum only has very few cast iron post, most of them struggle with even melting cast iron, but I'm interested if you think if the temperature would be a problem for the materials that you use normally, like the pouring cup, sand, coating etc.
I don't presently pour iron because most of my parts don't call for it. The lost foam method is (probably most) commonly used for Iron castings in industry. Being resistive electric, my furnaces is not capable of iron temps but would be in fuel fired mode. I just dont use it that way. Besides melting temps, you are correct, my pouring cups are fine for non-ferrous materials and temps, but not iron duty. An expendable version made from sodium silicate bonded sand would probably be what I would use as a hobbyist. The coating I use is for non-ferrous not iron duty. The same manufacturer offers an iron duty refractory coating that is zirconia based. These coatings are very similar to iron and steel mold wash formulas. With the proper cup and coating, I think a hobbyist could manage just fine with silica sand as mold material because, although there would be some attrition, the coating would isolate an glassy silica from the casting surface. In industry they use a mullite based rounded grain media for Iron casting. It can be reused indefinitely but they recycle it through fluidizing furnaces to burn off contaminates before reuse. Best, Kelly.
I buy from a commerical supplier because a foundry friend had a close relationship with them and introduced me. Even with that I pay in advance and unless you are prepared to buy 1000-2000lbs per purchase and set up an account with them, I suggest you look elsewhere. Even so, most metal suppliers won't mess with an individual for such small purchases and if they are not near you, shipping cost will significantly increase the per lb cost. If you have an aluminum foundry in your area, befriend them and ask if you can buy some ingot or gating/returns from them. Best, Kelly
Love the pouring setup!
The elegance of your patterns and gating systems is absolutely the most innovative work I’ve ever seen.
Almost all of my gating work is done with the hot wire. The Y branches are just cut freehand. I usually just start cutting and piecing things together with intuitive thoughts of promoting smooth laminar flow and enough strength to survive the application of refractory coating......sort of fun. Best, Kelly
wow beautiful castings
I love your foundry/pour rig!
I just kept wondering why there was no metal puddles on the driveway 😂
just amazing
Another great video. I think you might know more about casting than some casters I've worked with. Impressive attention to detail. Keep them coming!
P.S. Birds chirping as you poored was the perfect commentary to all of this and foreshadowing as to whether it'd go well. Cool video!
People do get a kick out of watching me pour outside my garage on my residential driveway. I have had life long friends in the foundry industry, have tried to learn and apply professional processes, and make practical compromises for the home/hobby environment. The general theme of my videos is lost foam is a viable method for making complex castings for the hobbyists. I'll have some other neat castings in the not too distant future I'm sure you will recognize. Thanks for the comment K. Best, Kelly
Very impressed with the two last videos! Also very inspiring! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed them! Best, Kelly
Fantastic work Kelly.
Very impressive looking castings. Greetings from "The Land of the Long White Cloud" New Zealand.
Love your setup!
Just incredible!!!!
im curious about the process you briefly touched on in the slideshow- the shims and epoxy etc for joinging the two pieces together. im curious about the specifics, maybe you could go into more detail about that process and its advantages in the future (vs just screwing and popping in some dowell pins)
There are many epoxy systems for metal bonding. They are commonly used in the aerospace and automotive industry. The strength and performance varies considerably with joint thickness. Without some method to control joint thickness, the compression from fasteners would just displace most of the glue and the joint thickness would be uncontrolled. I used shim stock to make small washers, to join the two castings and then I bought a large number of same online at McMaster Carr for the skins because I didn't feel like punching 130+ of them. Sometimes I've used pieces of wire as a second best choice but it at least keeps you in the optimal range for joint thickness. Besides joint thickness, surface preparation is important. Clean and free of grease, but media blasting, etching, or abrasive paper is suitable. Best, Kelly
I was curious as to what CAD package you are using. Very interesting project, thanks for sharing.
I use CamBam (CB) for CAM. It has a rudimentery CAD capability....2D and very limited 3D profile revolutions and extrusions. This part used CamBam for CAD and CAM. The CAM on this part was all 2.5D. CB has 3D machining capability and does pretty much all I need on the CAM front. Not quite a year ago, I started using Alibre for 3D CAD modeling. I't's in the same league as Solid Works and Fusion as a parametric 3D modeler, but you can own the software, your work, and is much less expensive. I have a couple more complex casting projects in the works that I modeled in Alibre. There will be a video in th enot too distant future. Best, Kelly
Loving the videos, i myself have another lost foam project coming up.
I’d love some feedback on my 3D model or any wisdom you’re willing to pass on prior to me casting. If you’re too busy though, no worries.
Best way to do that is join www.TheHomeFoundry.org and post some pictures. My user name there is Al2O3. Best, Kelly
@Kelly Coffield - do you have or recommend a video about physics and engineering of general-case flu and gate design?
I have never found such and it's a thinly published subject. I do have a number of threads on www.TheHomeFoundry.com. Not much reads across from AFS or Naturally pressurized gating theory because those systems are based upon gravity and cross section/velocity through open cavity whereas in Lost Foam, the metal front proceeds at the rate foam is evaporated which in general is much lower velocity than open cavity systems. Lost foam gating can also consider added strength for treeing multiple patterns and refractory dip coating. Best, Kelly
On something as complicate as that, how do you figure out how much aluminum to melt?
Probably CAD design Information
If I don't have a CAD model, I just measure and break it up into rough LxWxH planks, add up all the volume, and multiply by the density of aluminum ~.1lb/in3. Then I usually increase that by 25%. I have a scale to weigh the melt/charge. Also, A series crucibles designate the lbs of aluminum.....i.e. a full A10 is 10lbs, an A20 20lbs, etc. Best, Kelly
Will POP cement work for coating as well?
Not sure about the "cement" but you can use the non-setting joint finishing drywall compound and dilute with water to a thin brushable viscosity. Best, Kelly
Would your setup with the coating work with cast iron?
Your forum only has very few cast iron post, most of them struggle with even melting cast iron, but I'm interested if you think if the temperature would be a problem for the materials that you use normally, like the pouring cup, sand, coating etc.
I don't presently pour iron because most of my parts don't call for it. The lost foam method is (probably most) commonly used for Iron castings in industry. Being resistive electric, my furnaces is not capable of iron temps but would be in fuel fired mode. I just dont use it that way. Besides melting temps, you are correct, my pouring cups are fine for non-ferrous materials and temps, but not iron duty. An expendable version made from sodium silicate bonded sand would probably be what I would use as a hobbyist. The coating I use is for non-ferrous not iron duty. The same manufacturer offers an iron duty refractory coating that is zirconia based. These coatings are very similar to iron and steel mold wash formulas. With the proper cup and coating, I think a hobbyist could manage just fine with silica sand as mold material because, although there would be some attrition, the coating would isolate an glassy silica from the casting surface. In industry they use a mullite based rounded grain media for Iron casting. It can be reused indefinitely but they recycle it through fluidizing furnaces to burn off contaminates before reuse. Best, Kelly.
Nice casting setup. Was that a Hawkeye shirt you were wearing? Looked like the A at the end of Iowa and it's in Hawkeye colors. (I'm in Eastern Iowa)
Yes, Iowa Quad Cities Alum and Hawkeye family....Go Hawks! Best, Kelly
Where do you get your casting metal from?
I buy from a commerical supplier because a foundry friend had a close relationship with them and introduced me. Even with that I pay in advance and unless you are prepared to buy 1000-2000lbs per purchase and set up an account with them, I suggest you look elsewhere. Even so, most metal suppliers won't mess with an individual for such small purchases and if they are not near you, shipping cost will significantly increase the per lb cost. If you have an aluminum foundry in your area, befriend them and ask if you can buy some ingot or gating/returns from them. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 thanks again for the reply I was hoping you'd have some super secret tip