Hey Kelly, you are Sir, a total inspiration! Not only are you a skilled artisan, but you are also a true artist! When I first discovered your channel I was hooked on lost foam casting and I 'binge-watched' every video that you've posted on You Tube, and I joined your forum. Superb work! Can't wait for your next master lesson. Greetings from Southport, UK.
Just for fun, I would leave marks that leaves the final product looking like it was die cast. It is always funny watching people look at custom made items and try to guess how it was made.
Very Nice work, Kelly. Love all the detail you add during your videos. You Definitely do a Great job of sharing information. Thanks for posting these videos. Peter 👍
Nice Video and work. A suggestion @Kelly Coffield. How about having a foot switch for closing the foundry? When your hands are full and pouring, you cant close until after the pour. A auto close sensor may not be a good idea, so I suggest a simple foot switch next to the crucible collection point.
Have you looked into mechanical fuel injection midget 4 cylinders like the inline carb that you worked with in this video? With The piece you worked here. But one piece block you could make quiet efficient. And more stable on the heads. May look and Esslinger or and others in the industry. A good solid piece minimize parts as a one piece product. Up to the air cleaners? At least have a copy Wright maybe come up to a midgets to Indy type vehicles I think it could be evolutionary designs. Great job👍👍👍
Wow!! The second video that I watch on your channel and I have to say... AMAZING job man. Do you machine the parts to the specs or do they come out ready to assemble?
Most parts require some machning for flat surfaces and threaded fasteners etc. but this one just required degating at the carb interface but was otherwise net shape. Best, Kelly
Love your your work Kelly 👍 I've seen you cast some pretty complex parts, like a manifold, but would your methods be suitable for casting a 6 banger cylinder head?
I wouldn't see why not. In the commercial setting, water jacketed engine components are comonly done in LF. In the hobbyist setting the challenge is melt capacity, and mold handling and packing capacity. Right now, my pouring capacity is 60lbs of Aluminum (so part plus feed system). I think my existing flask (30 gallon drum with extender) and packing system could handle it. At 450lbs, the challenge is enough vibratory energy to pack it, which is very important for intricate cores like a water jacket. You can see my equipment for such in the intake manifold video. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Cheers Kelly 👍I have some big plans, for cadding a head (sliced if needed) modifying/raising the inlet ports a bit in cad, adding thickness in seat and combustion areas, changing combustion shape, then milling the foam in slices, gluing it together and getting it cast. A bit of stuffing around, but seems pretty easy in principle.. I know GM are even casting whole engine blocks this way now, but they use a lower density styrofoam. It's amazing what can be accomplished these days. All the best 👍
You make some fantastic castings! Why not put the ring on the bottom of your buckets so it all falls out the bottom and you dont have to push/roll it over?
Those buckets have a vacuum plenum and screen in the bottom. I dont use that feature much. When I dont have the height extension on them they are much easier to handle. I also use them to store the stinky sand. Best, Kelly
Permission to ask What foam do you use to make the model? If possible I would like to see you cast motorcycle engine(V-twin). **From Thailand**Sorry if I wrote it wrong**
Yes, and also no concerns about complex parting lines (there are none), back draft.....etc. I've made so many lost foam castings that I would literally have a garage full of tooling. But evaporative pattern casting means I have none, just a cnc router that cuts patterns as needed with computer stored files. Other evporative pattern casting methods like block and shell invetsment would have large pattern and mold costs. By comparison, lost foam is literally pennies. When you have relatively large parts, this can be very significant. Best, Kelly
My metal pouring experience consists of just a couple babbit bearings and a walnut sized aluminum check valve for an old hand pump. But I got very interested in casting when I needed a wet cylinder head for a 12hp hit and miss gas engine. After reading a lot about it, I gave up and welded one up from a lot of steel. Somehow it looked and worked great. But I didn't know about the foam trick then. You got me dreaming of a small piston fuel pump and overflow fuel mixer for a Dempster 2 1/2 hp hit n miss now!
It's a 3D machining method that slices the shape into layers like lowering the water level, thus "waterline", very similar to 3D printing only subtractive, not additive. Scanline methods step/cut adjacent vertical slices either parallel to X or Y axis. Best, Kelly
Depends upon the part. If it's ornamental usually not. If it is structural or will be machined, yes. I cast with A356 ingot. I usually apply a T5 schedule because that is very easy to do and gains most of the improvements of T6. I will occassionally add grain refiners and modifiers (Strontium and TiB) to critical parts. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 thanks so much for commenting back! Do you have any info/videos for heat treating to t6? I am trying to make some motorcycle triple trees, I have cast the parts, but they are so gummy when I try to machine them
@@sheanyquist Have you tried T5? It's only 450F for 6-8hrs. You can search the schedule for T6 online. It can be done in a kiln with a PiD controller and well place K-type thermocouple but the issue is the solution phase is ~1000F. That is much closer to the melting point and the casting will not have much strength, but the real issue is how uniform the temperature is in your kiln and preventing the radiant heat from the elements causing localized melting. I put my parts inside a metal can or cylindrical metal shield to prevent radiant line of site fromthe heating elements to the casting. Bring you kiln to temp and measure how uniform the temp is from top to bottom. It's common for there to be 100F+ difference. Bring the kiln to temp before placing the parts inside. Support them on a flat surface. It can be done. Just takes some care and follow the rest of the schedule. The above temps are for 356 alloy. Don't expect to get good results with unknown scrap alloys. Some are not heat treatable at all. A triple tree is a critically stressed part.....not ideal for a hobby caster. Better made in wrought. Be safe. Best, Kelly
2-part foams (typically urethanes and Epoxies) are thermosets (TSs) which are very poor material for a lost foam pattern. Polystyrene which is thermoplastic (TPs). TPs go from solid to liquid to gas which is very important to controlling the LF process. TSs tends to decompose directly to ash and some gas and leave numerous casting defects. This info is from the pros but I canattest from my own experience. Best, Kelly
It's Closed Cell Polystyrene Foam Insulation board. OC calls it Foamular 150. 1.3lb/ft3 density. I have a video on my channel that discusses materials in greater detail. Best, Kelly
Still at it. Just don't cast as much in the Summer time due to other outdoor activities. Been working on developing my CAD skills so I can make better lost foam patterns! Best, Kelly
Hey Kelly, you are Sir, a total inspiration! Not only are you a skilled artisan, but you are also a true artist! When I first discovered your channel I was hooked on lost foam casting and I 'binge-watched' every video that you've posted on You Tube, and I joined your forum. Superb work! Can't wait for your next master lesson. Greetings from Southport, UK.
Very kind of you. Glad you find them helpful. Cheers, Kelly
You have perfected that lost foam method. All the castings looks better than factory castings I have seen! Thank you for the thorough videos
,
Just for fun, I would leave marks that leaves the final product looking like it was die cast. It is always funny watching people look at custom made items and try to guess how it was made.
This is FANTASTIC ! Beautiful Finish ! Looks like a whole lot of Fun ! Thank you for sharing.
What a beautiful part !! Very inspirational. I really need to try your method for a supercharger intake that I need. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for showing the pattern making part.
The Dust Deputy cyclones are awesome.
You are a God when it comes to Lost foam! Awesome work!
Very Nice work, Kelly.
Love all the detail you add during your videos.
You Definitely do a Great job of sharing information.
Thanks for posting these videos.
Peter 👍
Awesome looking castings Kelly!
Greetings from New Zealand.
Good content Kelly. Always enjoy your videos and good work.
Hello from Windsor Ontario Canada, casting was taught in high school here.
Surprised you didn't just make a new scoop, that fit the carb!
Really great content.
You habe truly mastered lost foam casting.
Maybe can you show the pouring a little more closeup?
Thanks for another great video Kelly.
Wow, those turned out fantastic.
Really great and detailed video -- thank you!
Nice Video and work. A suggestion @Kelly Coffield. How about having a foot switch for closing the foundry? When your hands are full and pouring, you cant close until after the pour. A auto close sensor may not be a good idea, so I suggest a simple foot switch next to the crucible collection point.
Just wow.
+1 for cambam! Love that software!
Great Job Sir! Looks great
great video , i will use so much feom this for my shop . thank you
Thanks for sharing 👍 you might want to visit " Rural King" and pick up a galvanized stock watering trof for cooling off big parts like those.
Yeah, be careful of Grandma's 25 gal Redwing!
Such great work.
Have you looked into mechanical fuel injection midget 4 cylinders like the inline carb that you worked with in this video? With The piece you worked here. But one piece block you could make quiet efficient. And more stable on the heads. May look and Esslinger or and others in the industry. A good solid piece minimize parts as a one piece product. Up to the air cleaners? At least have a copy Wright maybe come up to a midgets to Indy type vehicles I think it could be evolutionary designs. Great job👍👍👍
Amazing
Good session
Wow!! The second video that I watch on your channel and I have to say... AMAZING job man.
Do you machine the parts to the specs or do they come out ready to assemble?
Most parts require some machning for flat surfaces and threaded fasteners etc. but this one just required degating at the carb interface but was otherwise net shape. Best, Kelly
Epic i not even see video
i liked 👍
Love your your work Kelly 👍 I've seen you cast some pretty complex parts, like a manifold, but would your methods be suitable for casting a 6 banger cylinder head?
I wouldn't see why not. In the commercial setting, water jacketed engine components are comonly done in LF. In the hobbyist setting the challenge is melt capacity, and mold handling and packing capacity. Right now, my pouring capacity is 60lbs of Aluminum (so part plus feed system). I think my existing flask (30 gallon drum with extender) and packing system could handle it. At 450lbs, the challenge is enough vibratory energy to pack it, which is very important for intricate cores like a water jacket. You can see my equipment for such in the intake manifold video. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Cheers Kelly 👍I have some big plans, for cadding a head (sliced if needed) modifying/raising the inlet ports a bit in cad, adding thickness in seat and combustion areas, changing combustion shape, then milling the foam in slices, gluing it together and getting it cast. A bit of stuffing around, but seems pretty easy in principle.. I know GM are even casting whole engine blocks this way now, but they use a lower density styrofoam. It's amazing what can be accomplished these days. All the best 👍
@@jfair7050 Sounds like a funproject J. We'll expect a full video report. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 Haha, don't hold your breath on that 😛👍
You make some fantastic castings!
Why not put the ring on the bottom of your buckets so it all falls out the bottom and you dont have to push/roll it over?
Those buckets have a vacuum plenum and screen in the bottom. I dont use that feature much. When I dont have the height extension on them they are much easier to handle. I also use them to store the stinky sand. Best, Kelly
👍
IF I need a one off intake made is that something you can do and how do i reach you?
hi Kelly what software do you use? very nice work!
Rich
Permission to ask
What foam do you use to make the model?
If possible I would like to see you cast motorcycle engine(V-twin).
**From Thailand**Sorry if I wrote it wrong**
Extruded polystyrene foam insulation board. 1.3lb/ft3 density.
Wow I just realized... no core box necessary!
Yes, and also no concerns about complex parting lines (there are none), back draft.....etc. I've made so many lost foam castings that I would literally have a garage full of tooling. But evaporative pattern casting means I have none, just a cnc router that cuts patterns as needed with computer stored files. Other evporative pattern casting methods like block and shell invetsment would have large pattern and mold costs. By comparison, lost foam is literally pennies. When you have relatively large parts, this can be very significant. Best, Kelly
My metal pouring experience consists of just a couple babbit bearings and a walnut sized aluminum check valve for an old hand pump.
But I got very interested in casting when I needed a wet cylinder head for a 12hp hit and miss gas engine.
After reading a lot about it, I gave up and welded one up from a lot of steel. Somehow it looked and worked great. But I didn't know about the foam trick then.
You got me dreaming of a small piston fuel pump and overflow fuel mixer for a Dempster 2 1/2 hp hit n miss now!
I get a lot out of every video you do. Thanks for the tips on the CNC, especially the grounding. What do you mean by the "water line"?
It's a 3D machining method that slices the shape into layers like lowering the water level, thus "waterline", very similar to 3D printing only subtractive, not additive. Scanline methods step/cut adjacent vertical slices either parallel to X or Y axis. Best, Kelly
I'm just getting into lost foam. Thanks for all your help full content. Do you do any post heat treatment on you parts?
Depends upon the part. If it's ornamental usually not. If it is structural or will be machined, yes. I cast with A356 ingot. I usually apply a T5 schedule because that is very easy to do and gains most of the improvements of T6. I will occassionally add grain refiners and modifiers (Strontium and TiB) to critical parts. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 thanks so much for commenting back! Do you have any info/videos for heat treating to t6? I am trying to make some motorcycle triple trees, I have cast the parts, but they are so gummy when I try to machine them
@@sheanyquist Have you tried T5? It's only 450F for 6-8hrs. You can search the schedule for T6 online. It can be done in a kiln with a PiD controller and well place K-type thermocouple but the issue is the solution phase is ~1000F. That is much closer to the melting point and the casting will not have much strength, but the real issue is how uniform the temperature is in your kiln and preventing the radiant heat from the elements causing localized melting. I put my parts inside a metal can or cylindrical metal shield to prevent radiant line of site fromthe heating elements to the casting. Bring you kiln to temp and measure how uniform the temp is from top to bottom. It's common for there to be 100F+ difference. Bring the kiln to temp before placing the parts inside. Support them on a flat surface. It can be done. Just takes some care and follow the rest of the schedule. The above temps are for 356 alloy. Don't expect to get good results with unknown scrap alloys. Some are not heat treatable at all. A triple tree is a critically stressed part.....not ideal for a hobby caster. Better made in wrought. Be safe. Best, Kelly
Hello, any updates would be appreciated. Thank you
This project is complete but I will post another soon. Best, Kelly
How about making a silicon mold of a part and pouring a 2 part foam in that silicon mold, then putting that foam pattern in the the sand?
2-part foams (typically urethanes and Epoxies) are thermosets (TSs) which are very poor material for a lost foam pattern. Polystyrene which is thermoplastic (TPs). TPs go from solid to liquid to gas which is very important to controlling the LF process. TSs tends to decompose directly to ash and some gas and leave numerous casting defects. This info is from the pros but I canattest from my own experience. Best, Kelly
@@kellycoffield533 so there is no such thing as 2 part polystyrene?
I'm just trying to cast the foam rather than mill it out of a block with CNC .
No
Hello, do you also make parts according to samples ?
what is that foam called ( brand , product , etc )& how do you buy them ?
Search my channel. There are dedicated videos discussing pattern materials, coatings, etc. Best, Kelly
Hi friend I'm from Brazil, which Owens Corning® Polyethylene do you use?
It's Closed Cell Polystyrene Foam Insulation board. OC calls it Foamular 150. 1.3lb/ft3 density. I have a video on my channel that discusses materials in greater detail. Best, Kelly
I have a question, how hard is it to cast aluminum block for 7.3 Godzilla ?
Hard!
Is Kelly ok and still at it or move to new platform?
Still at it. Just don't cast as much in the Summer time due to other outdoor activities. Been working on developing my CAD skills so I can make better lost foam patterns! Best, Kelly
✅ 🅿🆁🅾🅼🅾🆂🅼