Watch out for that cap, even if you have that green sticker, underneath is (ATF oil only) enrgaved on the cap, if you have second hand vechicle, the sticker might just came off (often case). So before you buy the fluid, always check whats inside the reservoir (green tint in fresh, dark gold, brownish in used - pentosin chf 11s) or (red/pink tint, very dark brown/redish when used - AFT ), also, when you have anything else powered by PS pump, like suspension parts then its always CHF 11s. In most BMWs its CHF tho, also, if you do complete flush you can swap both, but watch out sealings, when switching from pentosin to ATF in older vechicles (might start leaking). Great vid btw!
It literally JUST dawned on me to pop my hood and check my power steering fluid and...let's just say that's my next priority to change. Thanks for the DIY tips!
Great job! The steps to replace the power steering fluid in your BMW are explained clearly. It's important to use the right fluid (CHF 11s) and the syringe method seems easy. Speaking from experience, my 152,000-mile-old E92 M3 is still running strong. I only had to replace the power steering reservoir with one from Euro Power Motorsports, and it's been smooth ever since.
If it's time to replace your power steering fluid you should probably replace the entire reservoir which includes a power steering fluid filter inside. This is basically just doing half the job. Even though you drained the reservoir twice to get out any more of the old fluid you still have fluid in the lines. The proper way to drain this fluid is disconnect the power steering hose underneath the car down by the radiator
@gmp203 ..I've done the same method like what you said when I flushed my old power steering fluid previously but I forgot which hoses I disconnected because there are has two hoses located on radiator..top hose or bottom hose? 😅
My girl just got a n54 too but it’s automatic I drive a golf so I wasn’t used to the stiffness of a bmw steering wheel so I checked the power steering and it looks muddy. Gonna do a flush and replace the power steering to be safe. Thanks brother!
Awesome great dude! I even went as far as draining the fluid directly from the steering rack...there's a plug right at the bottom so I drain it there also then perform the flush process...great info. On the replacement 👍
Same level of attention to detail as myself. Been tuning a N54 135i this channel has helped me leaps and bounds with reassurance making sure I am doing things properly on this drive train. Thanks man
Well, the second sample should have given you a clue that you were in fact not replacing the seriously old worn out fluid but merely diluting it. This is not a bad thing, but neither is it the proper thing, a complete draining and refill with brand new hydraulic fluid. What needs to occur is draining the rack from underneath while a buddy continuously refills the reservoir on top. Turning the wheel side to side is indeed necessary to get all of the contaminated fluid out. This procedure is like replacing your brake fluid by extricating the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir then refilling it then running the car a few times braking into ABS operation. Then coming back and extricating the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, topping it off and claiming the brake hydraulic fluid has been replaced. Has it? Of course not! And no one does it that way. New fluid is always refilled constantly until the old fluid has been completely replaced. Mere dilution of old contaminated fluid is not replacement. And all compromised hydraulic fluids (brakes, power steering, automatic transmissions) should be completely replaced as they form harmful compounds and fail completely when they are contaminated (water) and decomposed. If one ever wants to gauge the condition of a hydraulic fluid, perform the white paper towel test. On a clean white paper towel sheet, put some of the current fluid and some of the equivalent new fluid. The color difference is a direct indicator of the current fluid's wear and condition. The greater the variance, the greater the degradation. In the video, that dark fluid was certainly indicative to me that it had gone well past its useful life by a factor of at least two. Fresh fluids in your car is the best way to extend the life of hydraulic and lubricated systems. One last thing on hydraulic power steering fluid and degradation rate. If you drive your car primarily on the highway, and you are not in a high temperature environment for long periods of operation, your fluid will last longer. If you are in an urban environment, especially at higher temperatures, your fluid will degrade more rapidly due to more frequent use of brakes, steering, and shifting of the transmission. So urban duty even at lower speeds is generally a heavier duty use.
His is wrong as are you. Do it yearly and it will be fine. Don't wait for 40,000 and pay BMW stealership to do total flush of breaks and power steering, $$$. Lastly get a fresh bottle every time. These fluids are hygroscopic. So an open bottle will absorb water, which is one of the problems with running old fluid. Also change coolant because it is also a corrosion inhibiter, (Al, Mg, Fe alloy parts and fasteners) every 24k miles. Final, change oil 6,000 miles or annually, not what the f@$king computer says. This will save your Vanos valves. More maintenance not BMW maintenance to "reduce' the "European" carbon footprint of BMW ownership.
NO DIP SHIT, YOU DON'T NEED TO DRAIN IT FROM THE POWER STEERING ASSEMBLY RACK. JUST DISCONNECT THE RETURN LINE FROM THE RESERVOIR AND PLUG IT TEMPORARILY WITH A RUBBER OR SILICONE PLUG. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🔪☠️
The syringe I use is a flavor injector. It has a longer tip and is a little easier to pull the plunger. I keep one that only gets used for brake fluid and use a different one for the power steering fluid. I do that because anything that gets into the brake fluid could cause problems with the seals in the system if it is petroleum. I also would use a new one for the brakes if I have any doubt as to whether it has been used with anything other than brake fluid just to be safe because those syringes are not expensive at all. The dollar tree even sells them too so look there if you need them. It may be worth getting a few just to have on hand if you have more than one or two vehicles that you use them on. My 2013 Passat takes CHF-202 which is similar to the CHF-11S. I might gravity bleed the old brake fluid (of course keeping an eye on the reservoir to prevent getting air in the system).
Getting a whining noise when turning steering wheel, my reservoir is leaking so I’m sure it’s low on fluid can I just top it off or do I need do this method ?
I will be doing this tomorrow my power steering fluid right now is really dirty an Mon I’ll be changing camshaft sensor an clean out the vanos solenoid
Great video, hey I was at a drive through today. Car stopped driving or moving , I couldn’t switch gears . Couldn’t turn my wheel. Couldn’t take the key out until I finally did but the ride back home I could hardly spin the wheel. Felt liek I was turning on neutral.
Sounds like another problem bud 🙄 you have to do probably fucked up your power steering pump ... but the no switching gears part and the key are dident things
I bought a 2011 328i from auction for $1800, drives good but the wheel is frickin heavy, wondering power steering liquid replacement can help make it smoother.
06 with 140+ miles took to mechanic car is in great health. Was wondering should I flush brake and power steering fluid and refill or just too each off.
So to do this process for the brake fluid, would you just refill the resivoir once its empty press down on the brakes a few times then suck out and refill again? rinse and repeat?
This is wrong ? Cap off, remove half litre, cap on, start engine, full left, full right, full left, full right, full left, full right, cap off and remove half litre, top up remaining half litre, done. Or am I wrong ?
So I can just fill the new can with my old power steering fluid and get a refund? Assuming I bought it from FCP the first time, I guess they would check through your order history right? Same applies to oil?
Thank you for the video. I was told there was a plug underneath the reservoir for draining? I haven't personally see it yet, as I'm currently waiting for my CHF to arrive in the mail.
Hey man how are your dual cone intakes holding up i remember someone else having them and inside they had red shavings which didn’t look good for the car after having them for a year, wondering if yours ever had the same issue
Hi! I just did that CHF, the fluid in my car was very dirty, unbelievable! But now my question is, how often should I change the transmission oil for my bmw? And/ or if you have a video of transmission maintenance.
Well first you need to get all the gaskets and filters as you will need to drop the pan. This may include replacing one time use bolts and washers. I am going to stop here and recommend you call around your area and find a BG shop or a Sun shop (SnapOn) that has a ATF continuous flush machine. Other machines exist, but few work as well and air pressurized machines can do a lot of harm. Call around and once you find the equipment, inquire as to their experience with BMW automatic transmissions. Also, you probably want to purchase the BMW specified fluid in the necessary quantity plus about 4 additional liters so you can completely flush the trans mission. The Sun machine can also flush your PS fluid. Merely draining the pan and refilling will leave with less contaminated fluid, but not purely new uncontaminated fluid as about 2/3 of the old contaminated fluid will remain in the gear case.
Hey just wondering why you didn't replace the reservoir? There is a filter in that reservoir which over time gets dirty. Also another inexpensive part that I would recommend replacing while doing this job. As always great video quality 👍
@@MultiTerpen its always good to change the filter, but when the system is in good condition (no metal shavings), you dont have to, remember that fresh fluid is very good solvent so when u change the fluid often, you dont have much debris on the filter.
Jose Marquez yes i think you should if you think about it. Take it out, add new fluid, turn engine then turn the steering wheel left to right completely for a few times. That fluid will mix with rest of the of old fluid in the system. Then take that fluid out and add more new fluid repeat the same process a couple of times. Then fill it up to the correct level mark
What kind of air intake are you using? I have a 2008 328i (E90) non turbo model, and I'm looking for a way to improve the air flow but I don't want to spend too much. I found a aFe 54-81012-B which cost around $500.
Hey I disconnected my battery and forgot and closed the trunk! There's no key hole on the back of my 2010 e92. Any ideas how to get it open? I tried to jump it from under the hood but it gets no power.
Why can't you do it all the way through you only took out the top part of the old fluid you're supposed to take it all the way down to the pump itself to drain out completely the old one
That noice at around 4:05 when the wheels reach its full lock position, any one knows a solution to that problem, it only happens when the wheels are almost at the very end of the turning radius.
Clunks could be, worn bushing in control arms or most likely tie rod ends that control the tires when turning that noise is prob shifting of the ball at the end of the tie rod, or its simply the max point of turning and hits a stopper
Honestly, since I'm using oil from fcp euro it's a no brainer to change the ps fluid once a year too... I'm always shipping oil back, so adding another canister of fluid for return will not make any difference in the shipping costs.
Lazy incomplete fluid change. Renew the reservoir itself (has in built filter) connect drain line to return hose, & properly bleed through new fluid & remove old stuff.
This is absolutely NOT how to flush the fluid. You disconnect the return line and place in a container. Have someone start the car and turn the steering end to end while adding fresh fluid until the return line shows clean fluid. All that’s done with the old reservoir/ filter. Then the new one gets installed.
CLICK HERE for my BMW Fanatic Amazon recommendations that I’ve tested on this channel! Thanks for the support! 👉🏻www.amazon.com/shop/bmwfanatic
10 cents tip: 03:18
To avoid chug chug glup glup, turn the can the other way, to let air be at top and not gurgle.
Watch out for that cap, even if you have that green sticker, underneath is (ATF oil only) enrgaved on the cap, if you have second hand vechicle, the sticker might just came off (often case). So before you buy the fluid, always check whats inside the reservoir (green tint in fresh, dark gold, brownish in used - pentosin chf 11s) or (red/pink tint, very dark brown/redish when used - AFT ), also, when you have anything else powered by PS pump, like suspension parts then its always CHF 11s. In most BMWs its CHF tho, also, if you do complete flush you can swap both, but watch out sealings, when switching from pentosin to ATF in older vechicles (might start leaking). Great vid btw!
It literally JUST dawned on me to pop my hood and check my power steering fluid and...let's just say that's my next priority to change. Thanks for the DIY tips!
Great job! The steps to replace the power steering fluid in your BMW are explained clearly. It's important to use the right fluid (CHF 11s) and the syringe method seems easy. Speaking from experience, my 152,000-mile-old E92 M3 is still running strong. I only had to replace the power steering reservoir with one from Euro Power Motorsports, and it's been smooth ever since.
If it's time to replace your power steering fluid you should probably replace the entire reservoir which includes a power steering fluid filter inside. This is basically just doing half the job. Even though you drained the reservoir twice to get out any more of the old fluid you still have fluid in the lines. The proper way to drain this fluid is disconnect the power steering hose underneath the car down by the radiator
I disagree, this way is fine. Less hassle, less cost.
@gmp203 ..I've done the same method like what you said when I flushed my old power steering fluid previously but I forgot which hoses I disconnected because there are has two hoses located on radiator..top hose or bottom hose? 😅
That top fill line is the hot level line.
My girl just got a n54 too but it’s automatic I drive a golf so I wasn’t used to the stiffness of a bmw steering wheel so I checked the power steering and it looks muddy. Gonna do a flush and replace the power steering to be safe. Thanks brother!
Awesome great dude! I even went as far as draining the fluid directly from the steering rack...there's a plug right at the bottom so I drain it there also then perform the flush process...great info. On the replacement 👍
N54 Lord how many of those bottles did you ended up using? Cause i feel like what hes doing its just diluting it which makes him use less of the fluid
Same level of attention to detail as myself. Been tuning a N54 135i this channel has helped me leaps and bounds with reassurance making sure I am doing things properly on this drive train. Thanks man
that is shit attention changing fluids like that!!!
Well, the second sample should have given you a clue that you were in fact not replacing the seriously old worn out fluid but merely diluting it. This is not a bad thing, but neither is it the proper thing, a complete draining and refill with brand new hydraulic fluid.
What needs to occur is draining the rack from underneath while a buddy continuously refills the reservoir on top. Turning the wheel side to side is indeed necessary to get all of the contaminated fluid out.
This procedure is like replacing your brake fluid by extricating the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir then refilling it then running the car a few times braking into ABS operation. Then coming back and extricating the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, topping it off and claiming the brake hydraulic fluid has been replaced. Has it? Of course not! And no one does it that way. New fluid is always refilled constantly until the old fluid has been completely replaced. Mere dilution of old contaminated fluid is not replacement. And all compromised hydraulic fluids (brakes, power steering, automatic transmissions) should be completely replaced as they form harmful compounds and fail completely when they are contaminated (water) and decomposed.
If one ever wants to gauge the condition of a hydraulic fluid, perform the white paper towel test. On a clean white paper towel sheet, put some of the current fluid and some of the equivalent new fluid. The color difference is a direct indicator of the current fluid's wear and condition. The greater the variance, the greater the degradation.
In the video, that dark fluid was certainly indicative to me that it had gone well past its useful life by a factor of at least two. Fresh fluids in your car is the best way to extend the life of hydraulic and lubricated systems.
One last thing on hydraulic power steering fluid and degradation rate. If you drive your car primarily on the highway, and you are not in a high temperature environment for long periods of operation, your fluid will last longer. If you are in an urban environment, especially at higher temperatures, your fluid will degrade more rapidly due to more frequent use of brakes, steering, and shifting of the transmission. So urban duty even at lower speeds is generally a heavier duty use.
His is wrong as are you. Do it yearly and it will be fine. Don't wait for 40,000 and pay BMW stealership to do total flush of breaks and power steering, $$$. Lastly get a fresh bottle every time. These fluids are hygroscopic. So an open bottle will absorb water, which is one of the problems with running old fluid. Also change coolant because it is also a corrosion inhibiter, (Al, Mg, Fe alloy parts and fasteners) every 24k miles. Final, change oil 6,000 miles or annually, not what the f@$king computer says. This will save your Vanos valves. More maintenance not BMW maintenance to "reduce' the "European" carbon footprint of BMW ownership.
NO DIP SHIT, YOU DON'T NEED TO DRAIN IT FROM THE POWER STEERING ASSEMBLY RACK. JUST DISCONNECT THE RETURN LINE FROM THE RESERVOIR AND PLUG IT TEMPORARILY WITH A RUBBER OR SILICONE PLUG. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🔪☠️
The syringe I use is a flavor injector. It has a longer tip and is a little easier to pull the plunger. I keep one that only gets used for brake fluid and use a different one for the power steering fluid. I do that because anything that gets into the brake fluid could cause problems with the seals in the system if it is petroleum. I also would use a new one for the brakes if I have any doubt as to whether it has been used with anything other than brake fluid just to be safe because those syringes are not expensive at all. The dollar tree even sells them too so look there if you need them. It may be worth getting a few just to have on hand if you have more than one or two vehicles that you use them on. My 2013 Passat takes CHF-202 which is similar to the CHF-11S. I might gravity bleed the old brake fluid (of course keeping an eye on the reservoir to prevent getting air in the system).
How is the car's steering after the fluid change?
My steering fluid looks ok (not too dark) but steering is quite hard to maneuver. Should i still change out the fluids?
Thanks for the vid !
I think you might want to flush it out and put in a new reservoir... Thats wat im bout to do on my 335i ... Steering is kinda stiff
@@javiermeza5086 I did replace it with a new steering fluid and there was a slight difference in steering than before.
@@wrathofdiablo so is the steering more smoother than before🤔?
@@javiermeza5086 not a huge difference but better. I can use one hand to turn comfortably !
What are the big red things in your car ? By the power steering cap ?
Getting a whining noise when turning steering wheel, my reservoir is leaking so I’m sure it’s low on fluid can I just top it off or do I need do this method ?
Ik this videos is old, yet I wanted to ask does my car have to be on for the fluid to flush threw?
I will be doing this tomorrow my power steering fluid right now is really dirty an Mon I’ll be changing camshaft sensor an clean out the vanos solenoid
but if you are only sucking the fluid out instead of draining it, you risk not removing all the possible contaminants which can be abrasive
Great video, hey I was at a drive through today. Car stopped driving or moving , I couldn’t switch gears . Couldn’t turn my wheel. Couldn’t take the key out until I finally did but the ride back home I could hardly spin the wheel. Felt liek I was turning on neutral.
Sounds like another problem bud 🙄 you have to do probably fucked up your power steering pump ... but the no switching gears part and the key are dident things
Shae Zubia turned out to be tensioner thanks 300 dollar fix :(
Nice video! Does the CHF 11S have an expiry date on the tin?
Nice job. It sounds like a disel engine
Typical N54
So you only need 1 bottle of it?
I bought a 2011 328i from auction for $1800, drives good but the wheel is frickin heavy, wondering power steering liquid replacement can help make it smoother.
my 2008 335xi is also heavy, wondering same thing
@@yvan6678I did and didn’t help a bit
As always, awesome video
It's greatly appreciated 👍🏻
Having a serious problem after doing this my sas code wonr turn off tried reset everything does anyone know what might caused it ??
Has your power steering ever made a whine noise
06 with 140+ miles took to mechanic car is in great health. Was wondering should I flush brake and power steering fluid and refill or just too each off.
just curious! Why did you flush fluid? Did you get some "warning sign light" on dash ?
Over time water gets into the oil and you lose performance and increase potential fail on seals etc...
Hey can u tell me how to make this pot dry ?? Its always wet
So to do this process for the brake fluid, would you just refill the resivoir once its empty press down on the brakes a few times then suck out and refill again? rinse and repeat?
Will just one can of fluid like you have do the job?
Is this a way to replace the fluid n cleaning it out ? No flush required? Where do u get the sucking out needle?
Yes the Sticker says CHF 11s. But if you peel the sticker, its written ATF only in the cap. Its confusing which fluid to use...
Just did this today. Used a turkey baster 🦃
Keith Burris lol 😂 at the turkey emoji
Is liqui molly Central hydraulic system good like Chf 11s only?
Thanks man! Just ordered mine today today, so will be replacing very soon.
I thought fcpeuro don't replace containers that cannot be replaced e.g aerosol spray cans when empty.
Hi what fluid power steering use my bmw 2012 n55 135i ? Atf dexron or chf 11S ??
This is wrong ? Cap off, remove half litre, cap on, start engine, full left, full right, full left, full right, full left, full right, cap off and remove half litre, top up remaining half litre, done. Or am I wrong ?
So I can just fill the new can with my old power steering fluid and get a refund? Assuming I bought it from FCP the first time, I guess they would check through your order history right? Same applies to oil?
I’m led to believe there is a filter in the fluid reservoir? Would you see that as a worthwhile service replacement item???
Mike Bader
I replaced the reservoir, Hoses and connectors when i did my fluid change.
Hey my bmw is cranking but won't start
Same fluid on my 2014 e84 X1.. thank you the video!!
Thank you for the video. I was told there was a plug underneath the reservoir for draining? I haven't personally see it yet, as I'm currently waiting for my CHF to arrive in the mail.
Do u only use one bottle?
Happy new year bro, keep the vids coming
How do you have 2 cool air intakes like that?? I only have the one. What model is yours? Mine is 08 328i.
You have n52 naturally aspirated. This is n54 twin turbo. I’m sure you learned by now
@@BimmerMafia I've learned allot since then 🤣
Why did you change it 2 times. Whats the point of that
4:20 how did you make your angel eyes blink?
Racing Bashing RCs it’s the camera it seems to do that when you record
Hey man how are your dual cone intakes holding up i remember someone else having them and inside they had red shavings which didn’t look good for the car after having them for a year, wondering if yours ever had the same issue
bms cones dont have that effect...cheaper dual cones will
Hey my car has a whining noise when turning at low speeds reading on forums apparently this will help? i have an e87
Well, the resovior has a filter in the bottom, this won't do anything.
How often should you change your power steering fluid ?
Anthony Gonzalez pretty sure is the Cámara catching the video ,
I think BMW says lifetime but do this simple method every 30K and you will be golden.
Thanks for this video im doing it soon to my n54
Great video. How often should you do this? Is the procedure the same for an N55 motor? Thanks
BMW fan yeah it’s the same - I do it every 2 years
BMW fan will probably switch to every year now since it’s cheap to do
I thought it had to be drained from under the car ?
Thee right way to do it.
How often would you recommend doing this?
Hi! I just did that CHF, the fluid in my car was very dirty, unbelievable!
But now my question is, how often should I change the transmission oil for my bmw? And/ or if you have a video of transmission maintenance.
Well first you need to get all the gaskets and filters as you will need to drop the pan. This may include replacing one time use bolts and washers.
I am going to stop here and recommend you call around your area and find a BG shop or a Sun shop (SnapOn) that has a ATF continuous flush machine. Other machines exist, but few work as well and air pressurized machines can do a lot of harm. Call around and once you find the equipment, inquire as to their experience with BMW automatic transmissions. Also, you probably want to purchase the BMW specified fluid in the necessary quantity plus about 4 additional liters so you can completely flush the trans mission. The Sun machine can also flush your PS fluid.
Merely draining the pan and refilling will leave with less contaminated fluid, but not purely new uncontaminated fluid as about 2/3 of the old contaminated fluid will remain in the gear case.
👍 your awsome man happy new year to you and your family
Andrew BMW 7511 thanks man - same to you!
Hey just wondering why you didn't replace the reservoir? There is a filter in that reservoir which over time gets dirty. Also another inexpensive part that I would recommend replacing while doing this job. As always great video quality 👍
Megaman_World how would I replace the clips on the hoses ?
Megaman_World Yeah another thing to change out, but if you keep up on keeping that fluid clean then the filter stays good as well. Until next time 😀
If you changed your oil every 100 miles.
@@MultiTerpen its always good to change the filter, but when the system is in good condition (no metal shavings), you dont have to, remember that fresh fluid is very good solvent so when u change the fluid often, you dont have much debris on the filter.
It says in their website that they dont cover fluids
Be careful there is a filter on the left side of resivor
FCP does not list BMW under 2017 vehicle makes. Only Audi is listed. So much for M240i parts. Maybe that will change before my warranty is up.
Scott Ramsey They will most likely have parts for that sometime this year
Do I need to take out the fluid before adding new fluid my car is low.
Jose Marquez yes i think you should if you think about it.
Take it out, add new fluid, turn engine then turn the steering wheel left to right completely for a few times. That fluid will mix with rest of the of old fluid in the system. Then take that fluid out and add more new fluid repeat the same process a couple of times. Then fill it up to the correct level mark
omg on my 330xi i just added some CHF but did not drain oh mannn
what tires are on the front seen in this video?
how do you know if your power steering cap is the original cap
Hans Zarkov you don’t 😂🤣
Subtle Pirelli tyre flex
How come your headlights were flickering?
The video, or camera, is on low fps probably
What kind of air intake are you using? I have a 2008 328i (E90) non turbo model, and I'm looking for a way to improve the air flow but I don't want to spend too much. I found a aFe 54-81012-B which cost around $500.
Hey I have the same car and I just had to change my rack because the flid was leaking from the boot
The stock intake is a good system, you probably won't gain any power, but if you want the sound then go for it.
Used the same fluid in my E46
Thanks for sharing how many flushes is recommended ? 2?
The real drain is in the rack you actually should continue flushing till it's perfect green.
That motor is N54 or N55?
When I turn my wheels I can hear a loud noise
good job
happy new year bro nice video you are doing great 👍 and give us how to care many things about your parts in n54 😍👏
Did you say that the fluid had to be returned to fcro?
Doesn’t have to be, but if you want the refund you return the old fluid
Hey I disconnected my battery and forgot and closed the trunk! There's no key hole on the back of my 2010 e92. Any ideas how to get it open? I tried to jump it from under the hood but it gets no power.
There’s a keyhole on the trunk
Panda Panda Absolutely not, not on a 2010 E92. I ended up taking it to the dealer and they had to pull the seats out the back to get in the trunk.
BladeTheMotovlogger must’ve blown a hole in your wallet
I would rather just pull drain bolt then refill.
Why can't you do it all the way through you only took out the top part of the old fluid you're supposed to take it all the way down to the pump itself to drain out completely the old one
i want to ask you a question about the N55 but you have the N54, it is how much boost can you push a stock turbo?
Checked my fluid yesterday and it’s disgusting... I was going to google a DIY and this popped up on my notifications 👍🏾👍🏾
How many liters does the whole system take?
Thank you for the Lifetime Warranty company info!
thank you
That noice at around 4:05 when the wheels reach its full lock position, any one knows a solution to that problem, it only happens when the wheels are almost at the very end of the turning radius.
Clunks could be, worn bushing in control arms or most likely tie rod ends that control the tires when turning that noise is prob shifting of the ball at the end of the tie rod, or its simply the max point of turning and hits a stopper
Thanks for the video will change mine too..👍
Doing it the real way is not harder than an oil change.
Are there any gains from doing this?
40hp and 20lb of torque
Eric E90 especially during the winter time! ⬆️
old fluid probs makes it stiffer in the cold. newer fluid probs make it loosen up faster. just somthing to prep for cold season
Honestly, since I'm using oil from fcp euro it's a no brainer to change the ps fluid once a year too... I'm always shipping oil back, so adding another canister of fluid for return will not make any difference in the shipping costs.
Lmao never knew about this lifetime guarantee
Nice
Shittt I went to dealership to get my fluid
Shouldn’t you leave the cap off while steering to let it bleed?
no, there is a hole in the cap which allows airflow
BMW Kaari and allows it to leak forever 😂
Lazy incomplete fluid change. Renew the reservoir itself (has in built filter) connect drain line to return hose, & properly bleed through new fluid & remove old stuff.
This is absolutely NOT how to flush the fluid. You disconnect the return line and place in a container. Have someone start the car and turn the steering end to end while adding fresh fluid until the return line shows clean fluid. All that’s done with the old reservoir/ filter. Then the new one gets installed.
Dude what a waste of fluid . Drain it from underneath .
5/5
This is the worst way to do it do this if you’re just lazy
Does the lifetime guarantee include turbo?