WOW hats off my friend. Being a backyard mechanic myself I only have respect for your quality of work. I have done quite a few h/g myself but never on a Previa. Today my friend came over with his 92 Previa and after my diagnosis I concluded he needed a h/g job. Hence I googled and found your post. This is so enlightening I am itching to get started on the job. I am totally a hands on guy and you just made it look so much easier, thank you so much.
Your very welcome. I'll give you a heads up if not to late. check PSI pressure first. The water pump bolts to the engine and when it fails the water then gets pushed into the engine and you get all the signs of a blown head when it's just a faulty water pump.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima This is a huge tip! Can you explain a little more what you mean on this? My 96 Previa has white smoke at startup for a few minutes, and bubbles in coolant tank, and coolant smell in exhaust, and stalling when put in gear, and running bad for a few seconds after starting when warm. Could all these symptoms just be a water pump? I'm about to pay $2200 for head gasket job.
Thank you for a great video. I just followed it and is in the process of putting things back on. One detail: it isn't mentioned to remove the timing-chain tensioner right before replacing the head and chain sprocket, to make it easier to reinstall the chain back on cam sprocket. ( Samay mentioned this to me on FB )
I loved it! It was awesome the way you explained it all very clear, just what I needed to get mine done. Now I feel more confident to tackle it down. Thanks
I'm going to do this job within the next few months, so that I'm a bit safer for some drives I plan to do. Thanks for this post, I find working on an engine mounted this way a little intimidating.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I’m learning that quick! Got a 95 s/c with 133k and a solid service/maintenance log. Luckily I got the haynes manual in place of an owners manual 😎
Caution: before removing the camshafts, observe the alignment divots, two on the bottom or exhaust camshaft, and on the intake camshaft. On my intake camshaft, there were THREE divots spaced away from each other. So use you paint pen to draw your own alignment mark across both gears. Do not rely solely on the divots on the upper gear.
My 800K mileage, 92 Previa also immobilized in my garage box for blown head gasket too. Only now I see the steps how to repair it. Thanks. Question: Do we need to plane the cylinder head surface everytime has been removed?
Hi, a planned work zone is always the right thing to do. If the Cylinder Head Gasket is done right and the engine is looked after then it will not need to be done again for another 40 or more years.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I mean : to machine so to resurface or recondition the cylinder head. Is the cylinder head surface wrapped ? Or is it just a precaution with the machining the plane surface again? I’ve to look here in netherlands, where I can have it done. Car is parked already 5yrs in the garage
800K miles or Km?, still amazing regardless. If i were you, i would be looking for another replacement engine. I don't know how far you'll get with that kind of mileage before the lower end block would eventually gives up.
Great tutorial! I've watched several different 3rz teardown videos, but yours has been the most helpful so far. I'm in the middle of pulling a cylinder head and had a question (if you don't mind) -- Is it absolutely necessary to entirely remove the timing sprocket from the cam shaft? Or can the chain removed from the sprocket after pulling the tensioner? I noticed pretty much everyone completely removes the timing sprocket from the camshaft. Thanks!
Glad it helped!. It is much easier to separate the timing chain from the sprocket if the sprocket is removed from the cam first. However if you can't remove the bolt to the sprocket you can try and remove the chain from the sprocket but getting it back on will be an even harder challenge.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima Wow thanks for answering so quickly! I already went ahead and just removed the sprocket anyhow. Initially I was worried that removing the bolt would be too difficult, but an offset box end wrench with a cheater pipe did the job no problem. When I look at other 3RZ videos, it seems that everyone has a different approach to getting that bolt loose.
@@karinkatt7893 Yes, removing the oil pump screws is not easy. You need the correct size JIS Screwdriver or the very best fitting Phillips screwdriver you can find. If you try with anything less the screws will hone out and make the job very hard to do. You will need a new oil pump and oil pump housing for the job. With the right tool, it can be a 1hr job, but use the wrong tools and it might take a few days to remove 12 screws.
If you are losing coolant like crazy and you see a trail of liquid behind where the vehicle has been driven, suspect the water pump. These problems were hard for me to sort out; when a coolant reservoir overflows from the engine overheating, a trail of coolant on the ground can result. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap first, both to no avail. If the three small tubular passages in the coolant reservoir are clogged, this will cause overheating. Any of these failures can then result in a warped block and a breached head gasket. So if doing a head gasket, consider the original cause of overheating. You may very well have several things to fix. Billowing white steam from the tailpipe IS NOT NECESSARILY a blown head gasket. A hydrolocked cylinder, which can be purged by removing spark plugs and turning over the engine, is still NOT NECESSARILY caused by a blown head gasket. Thanks to Sammy for this helpful video, although it makes a very difficult job look sort of easy, it is the best guide available.
I stupidly assumed I had a starter motor problem and removed it, paid for electrical check (in-conclusive) bought new starter motor BEFORE pulling the plugs and turning the engine over, only to find I had a hydro lock situation going on and a blown head gasket, these engines are so resilient they seem to be able to run with a lot of bad things happening inside. Given lack of basic TLC to my poor, long abused Previa, when the head came off the abuse was very apparent with a big clean up job required to remove the caked on, almost plastic state, of the oil deposit everywhere, including the sump where the internal oil filter was 2 thirds blocked with deposit. After a big clean up and head check where a few minor cracks were noted I got the gasket done and all back together now with new coolant (not water) fresh oil and new filter the engine is running beautifully. Garage wanted to take the engine out, thanks to your video I took this job on myself at home, I was slow but only had to pay for materials and head check/clean so around $400. All thanks to your video, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. PS...one thing to beware, when making that final tug to get the head off, I managed to snap the upper plastic cam chain guide somehow and had to get that professionally plastic welded and a bit of fiddliness getting it back on the metal rail base, so be careful as you pull the head away.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima where i am in the US, it normal would cost $95.00 to resurface the cylinder head, but i usually asked them to repalce the valve guide seals and also take all the valves out and clean the seat i order to guarantee the valves will have good seals, i pay almost double that. It's well worth the price, though.
Yes they are but at the same time, it looks harder than it really is. Compared to most of today's more modern cars it's a breeze. Thanks for your interest.
Hi there, 1. Do these engines commonly crack the cylinder head when they blow a head gasket and if so, can they be successfully repaired? 2. Do you use genuine Toyota head gasket or after market? 3. Is there any reason that you did not check the valve shim clearances after reinstalling the cams? 4. From your experience how often does the cam chain and tensioner need to be replaced in these engines? Thanks, Philip
I don't really know how common blown head gaskets are as people rarely report back how long it's been from one blown head gasket to the next however if you don't over work the engine and service it properly it will probably never stop. Always use OEM gaskets from Toyota. Doing the Shims can take a full day of messing around. When doing a head gasket it's better to put the old shims back in the same way they came out. If the shims were done as well the customer would be paying big. So unless doing a rebuild or you are very particular wanting everything 100% like new using the old ones is the normal thing to do. Cam chain and tensioner again comes down to how the van is treated. Workshop suggests 90,000 and 130,000 miles. From my own personal experience I have been driving my van since 2009 and it already had 420k kilometers when I picked it up. How many miles a vehicle has driven doesn't concern me. It's how it's been treated and the condition it is in is what I look at. parts can be change and probably have been a few times so miles no longer tell the true story. My personal van now almost 600k Ks has never had a blown head gasket or the sump removed. I only use the best oils and fuels in all my cars/vans and never let the fuel guage go below 1/4 tank. Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
I just started this job. This is super helpful👍. I'm going to lower the engine tomorrow. If you or anyone can see this, I was wondering, did you have to note how the teeth were when you pulled the distributor? My Corolla, you have to, otherwise you'll be left guessing on how it was... or you have to retime it.
I got everything out, repaired, and back in perfectly following this brilliant video Samay, on my 1993 Previa. Just finished my second round of 90 degree tightening sequence, when my friend pointed to the old Chilton manual saying I should have squeezed a couple inches of gasket sealant along an edge in the timing chain compartment next to where the gasket ends before reassembling. Is this true? Or just a preference. I find nothing about it in any other literature. If true, I will undo everything and get a new gasket and head bolts and redo after laying the sealant in that area between the block and head. There are 3 rectangular cavities on the block side of the head on that edge. Perhaps this is just a precaution?
Not needed on the head and todays head gaskets are much better than they were 20 years ago. Are you sure he didn't miss-read the manual? when putting the Valve-Cover back on the head I know the manual says to apply gasket sealant to the front and rear of the gasket where it arches but only lightly don't overdo it.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima Thx very much for reply. I should have been more specific but I don't even know what to call the area I'm trying to describe. I am THAT not mechanical. Your video has allowed me to achieve a repair no one had thought possible of me (that includes me!) and I am very grateful because my Previa is very important to me. Thankfully I do at least understand that I do not need to put gasket sealer on today's gasket. Which is why I am confused. But, the Chilton manual Section 3-31, Step 22, Fig. 101 has me placing an inch of seal packing on either side of the chain guide on the block before placing the gasket on and then the head. There is a transition there from one metal to another - from the cylinders to the chain cavity - a thin straight line is visible where these metals meet, but my test for warpage showed they are even in height. Perhaps sealant there was once a needed precaution along this transition? I am grateful for any further help.
I kept doing my homework and what I found is lots of opinions on forums but professionals say don't use gasket sealant on the block anywhere. I also just reviewed Samay's and friend's video and at 1:03:58 there is clearly NO sealant of any kind anywhere on the old block...which was the same for me. So, despite the Chilton manual instruction from 23 years ago, even my van had no sealant way back then and she's older than the manual! Thanks again to Samay and friends for this amazing, empowering video!
No need of gasket sealant in any area. The area you had mentioned in the timing chain slot, there's no pressure in that area, so need to worry about it, and there's already silicone already came on the gasket itself(you could feel the silicone it), that's enough to prevent oil from leaking out.
@Hugo Melo Simple answer is yes. Long answer, It's hard to do by hand. You need to put the cam in a vice [ wrap it in something soft as to not damage the cam ] make a tool or buy a camshaft pulley holder will do the trick. You will see a hole that doesn't go through. put the tool in that hole and the other part pushes against the Sub-Gear and then turn it until the holes line up and then put your Service Bolt in. I hope that makes sense to you. here is an image I found of a tool you could use lincos.tools/5578-large_default/adjustable-camshaft-pulley-holder-length-420mm.jpg This only happened to me once many years ago and I made my own tool to do the job. Also, try to put a bit of rubber, cut a bike tire, or something just to protect the gear as you push force against it. This has not happened to me with a Previa so I am not sure how hard it is to turn by hand or if you need the tool. I hope this helps.
Hello my friend, I am Osama from Iraq. He has a Toyota Previa, and the exhaust smells like gas. Even when I walk, the smell of gas is annoying. What is the solution? Please, I am one of the participants, your approved girls
Sounds like either your cold start injector isn't cutting off or maybe your O2 sensor is faulty always reported to the ecu your running lean so the ecu adds more fuel. Check for error codes.
I am getting ready to have this job done to my van. Do you have a contact number I can reach you? I have a few question such as replacement gasket OEM vs fel-pro and if timing chain components should be replaced among other questions. Thank you!
Are you talking about the flex pipe behind the Exhaust manifold? If so you may have a blown head gasket... If you live where it snows it could also be heavy condensation.
I have some decent mechanical abilities, I've pulled / rebuilt engines before, how long does this job take for someone who isn't experienced in previas? A day to remove the head? 2 days?
If you follow the clip as a guide and you have the tools you need and the height to move around under the van. Even if you have never done one before you can have it out in about 4 hrs. The Previa Legend in America can have it out in just under 1hr but he has all the tools plus some and a lift. So depending on what your conditions are depends on how long it will take.
I don't and I am located in Australia. Samay does and he is located in America. You didn't mention where you are but if in America I would strongly suggest contacting Samay on FB facebook.com/samay.sengamphan
Can anyone help me out? 1998 2rzfe. A small drill bit fell into the little oil port on the left front of the block deck that lubes the timing chain tensioner. How can I remove it? Please help me out guys. Thank you. Darrell
I'm not certain where it fell into, but perhaps if you could get a small bendable magnet or magnetic strip and slowly poke it into the area where you dropped the drill bit, you may just get lucky. DON'T LOSE THE MAGNET !
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I got the bit out using the insides of a bic pen. Thank God "no messy with timing cover and the like" thanks fellas. You guys rock!
Thanks for watching. No it's not needed but if re-using a used gasket that for some reason the head needed removing again and you want to try and save a dollar some people use copper sealant.
In the old days, when the quality of the head gasket was not good, the old timer used to spray the copper spray gasket maker on all of their gaskets to get better seal and help heat transfer and better better between the two surfaces. Nowadays, we have better gaskets, especially the head gasket so such practices were no longer necessary. I wouldn't recommend reuse a head gasket, once the torques are applied, the gasket would be compressed adn crushed. Best to get a new gasket for a piece of mind.
I’ve left a text above about Chilton manual directing use of sealant NOT on the gasket itself, but along the block where the gasket’s edge would end beside the timing chain cavity. I am unable to go further until this is understood to be necessary as I have already reassembled the head back on and the location is now unreachable. Any thoughts or links to help answer this question are much appreciated. Thank you.
@@VicfromOregon If you feel the edge of the gasket on the timing chain area, you will find that there is already extra sealant on that area. Therefore, there's no need to add more sealant on it. However, if you really want to just apply a light coat of sealant on it. That area has no compression so there isn't really a need to worry so much. The only thing it seals on that area is the oil, which the coating on the gasket which it came with would be enough.
Welcom the the Previa family :) Don't over work the engine. Keep it under 5k RPM and always look after your fluids and you may never have to do this job.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima i have an issue with my front driveshaft, issue being its not there, and i cant find a replacement part no matter where i look, any advice?
@@theonlyspartan34 The only advice I can offer is that you need to find a parts van or buy one online. You could ask in one of the Facebook groups if anyone would sell and post you an old one. There is no other cars or vans that use the same S.A.D.S. driveshaft.
@@theonlyspartan34 have you checked rock auto? I’ve also seen them for relatively cheap on buyee, a Japanese auction site. Though shipping might be a bit much. Hope you can find it
@@mechamoto6102 i went to a pick N pull, found the only all-trac for 300 miles and pulled the front shaft off, worked like a charm and i got some plastic parts to replace my missing/damaged bits. Thanks for the advice
![Remove 1995 Previa AWD W-SC 'SADS' Supplemental Accessory Drive Shaft [ Tarago Previa Estima TCR ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0JSKpWedSto/mqdefault.jpg)
WOW hats off my friend. Being a backyard mechanic myself I only have respect for your quality of work. I have done quite a few h/g myself but never on a Previa. Today my friend came over with his 92 Previa and after my diagnosis I concluded he needed a h/g job. Hence I googled and found your post. This is so enlightening I am itching to get started on the job. I am totally a hands on guy and you just made it look so much easier, thank you so much.
Your very welcome. I'll give you a heads up if not to late. check PSI pressure first. The water pump bolts to the engine and when it fails the water then gets pushed into the engine and you get all the signs of a blown head when it's just a faulty water pump.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima This is a huge tip! Can you explain a little more what you mean on this? My 96 Previa has white smoke at startup for a few minutes, and bubbles in coolant tank, and coolant smell in exhaust, and stalling when put in gear, and running bad for a few seconds after starting when warm. Could all these symptoms just be a water pump? I'm about to pay $2200 for head gasket job.
Thank you for a great video. I just followed it and is in the process of putting things back on. One detail: it isn't mentioned to remove the timing-chain tensioner right before replacing the head and chain sprocket, to make it easier to reinstall the chain back on cam sprocket. ( Samay mentioned this to me on FB )
Thanks for the info!
I have never seen so well explained step by step video like this one before You help me so much
I loved it! It was awesome the way you explained it all very clear, just what I needed to get mine done. Now I feel more confident to tackle it down.
Thanks
Very nice work you are a Master Mechanic +++ !! My 94 Previa just blown the head gasket I have little hope to get it done .
~Master Sam shares as usual! I understood it all of cource replicating another matter.
Wow 😳 this is an enormous Job, just for big wizards full of knowledge and experience... Thank youuuu for share...
Glad you enjoyed it!
I like your video, informative very straight forward and no confusion.
Thanks. Very good work.
Thank you too!
I'm going to do this job within the next few months, so that I'm a bit safer for some drives I plan to do. Thanks for this post, I find working on an engine mounted this way a little intimidating.
Before doing it I felt the same way. As long as you don't mind getting your hands dirty it really is easier than it looks.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I’m learning that quick! Got a 95 s/c with 133k and a solid service/maintenance log. Luckily I got the haynes manual in place of an owners manual 😎
Excellent work
Many thanks
Caution: before removing the camshafts, observe the alignment divots, two on the bottom or exhaust camshaft, and on the intake camshaft. On my intake camshaft, there were THREE divots spaced away from each other. So use you paint pen to draw your own alignment mark across both gears. Do not rely solely on the divots on the upper gear.
Thank you for the advice.
My 800K mileage, 92 Previa also immobilized in my garage box for blown head gasket too. Only now I see the steps how to repair it. Thanks. Question: Do we need to plane the cylinder head surface everytime has been removed?
Hi, a planned work zone is always the right thing to do. If the Cylinder Head Gasket is done right and the engine is looked after then it will not need to be done again for another 40 or more years.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I mean : to machine so to resurface or recondition the cylinder head. Is the cylinder head surface wrapped ? Or is it just a precaution with the machining the plane surface again? I’ve to look here in netherlands, where I can have it done. Car is parked already 5yrs in the garage
800K miles or Km?, still amazing regardless. If i were you, i would be looking for another replacement engine. I don't know how far you'll get with that kind of mileage before the lower end block would eventually gives up.
@@Previalegend km, used it everyday commuting 100km until 2014
@@richardb.1414 i hope you could get it back on the road again. It needs to tip over 1million km. Follow the steps on the videos. They will work.
Great tutorial! I've watched several different 3rz teardown videos, but yours has been the most helpful so far. I'm in the middle of pulling a cylinder head and had a question (if you don't mind) -- Is it absolutely necessary to entirely remove the timing sprocket from the cam shaft? Or can the chain removed from the sprocket after pulling the tensioner? I noticed pretty much everyone completely removes the timing sprocket from the camshaft. Thanks!
Glad it helped!. It is much easier to separate the timing chain from the sprocket if the sprocket is removed from the cam first. However if you can't remove the bolt to the sprocket you can try and remove the chain from the sprocket but getting it back on will be an even harder challenge.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima Wow thanks for answering so quickly! I already went ahead and just removed the sprocket anyhow. Initially I was worried that removing the bolt would be too difficult, but an offset box end wrench with a cheater pipe did the job no problem. When I look at other 3RZ videos, it seems that everyone has a different approach to getting that bolt loose.
@@stevebrennan9860 You found a way that worked for you and that's great. Well done.
Very helpful video.
amazing detailed work there...my supercharge emit slight tappet noise ..inside you can t hear it but once outside...its like a diesel engine...
I have a van like that, The oil pump needs fixing and it makes the sound similar to a diesel engine.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima ....have u ever change it?..
@@karinkatt7893 Yes, removing the oil pump screws is not easy. You need the correct size JIS Screwdriver or the very best fitting Phillips screwdriver you can find. If you try with anything less the screws will hone out and make the job very hard to do. You will need a new oil pump and oil pump housing for the job. With the right tool, it can be a 1hr job, but use the wrong tools and it might take a few days to remove 12 screws.
Very nice work men
Excelente buen video, muy útil para los que acabamos de adquirir una y nos gusta hacer todos los trabajos
If you are losing coolant like crazy and you see a trail of liquid behind where the vehicle has
been driven, suspect the water pump. These problems were hard for me to sort out;
when a coolant reservoir overflows from the engine overheating, a trail of coolant on the
ground can result. I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap first, both to no avail. If the
three small tubular passages in the coolant reservoir are clogged, this will cause overheating. Any of these failures can then result in a warped block and a breached head gasket. So if doing a head gasket, consider the original cause of overheating. You may very well have several things to fix. Billowing white steam from the tailpipe IS NOT NECESSARILY a blown head gasket. A hydrolocked cylinder, which can be purged by
removing spark plugs and turning over the engine, is still NOT NECESSARILY caused by
a blown head gasket. Thanks to Sammy for this helpful video, although it makes a very
difficult job look sort of easy, it is the best guide available.
I stupidly assumed I had a starter motor problem and removed it, paid for electrical check (in-conclusive) bought new starter motor BEFORE pulling the plugs and turning the engine over, only to find I had a hydro lock situation going on and a blown head gasket, these engines are so resilient they seem to be able to run with a lot of bad things happening inside. Given lack of basic TLC to my poor, long abused Previa, when the head came off the abuse was very apparent with a big clean up job required to remove the caked on, almost plastic state, of the oil deposit everywhere, including the sump where the internal oil filter was 2 thirds blocked with deposit. After a big clean up and head check where a few minor cracks were noted I got the gasket done and all back together now with new coolant (not water) fresh oil and new filter the engine is running beautifully. Garage wanted to take the engine out, thanks to your video I took this job on myself at home, I was slow but only had to pay for materials and head check/clean so around $400. All thanks to your video, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. PS...one thing to beware, when making that final tug to get the head off, I managed to snap the upper plastic cam chain guide somehow and had to get that professionally plastic welded and a bit of fiddliness getting it back on the metal rail base, so be careful as you pull the head away.
Great video!! I'm thinking of doing the same to my 96 diesel previa, where did you get the reconditioned head? And how much did it cost?
Samay sent it away to the machine shop. I don't know what it cost.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima where i am in the US, it normal would cost $95.00 to resurface the cylinder head, but i usually asked them to repalce the valve guide seals and also take all the valves out and clean the seat i order to guarantee the valves will have good seals, i pay almost double that. It's well worth the price, though.
Exelent video, I just have a cuestión do you the head to the machine shop?
Yes all the engine heads are sent away to a machine shop before being re-used.
very nice video very instructive and detail video, I am going to do mine now.
Glad it helped
Great video i dont have one but was interested in how hard it would be without a lift. Seems rough compared to regular engines spaces
Yes they are but at the same time, it looks harder than it really is. Compared to most of today's more modern cars it's a breeze. Thanks for your interest.
Hi there,
1. Do these engines commonly crack the cylinder head when they blow a head gasket and if so, can they be successfully repaired?
2. Do you use genuine Toyota head gasket or after market?
3. Is there any reason that you did not check the valve shim clearances after reinstalling the cams?
4. From your experience how often does the cam chain and tensioner need to be replaced in these engines?
Thanks,
Philip
I don't really know how common blown head gaskets are as people rarely report back how long it's been from one blown head gasket to the next however if you don't over work the engine and service it properly it will probably never stop. Always use OEM gaskets from Toyota. Doing the Shims can take a full day of messing around. When doing a head gasket it's better to put the old shims back in the same way they came out. If the shims were done as well the customer would be paying big. So unless doing a rebuild or you are very particular wanting everything 100% like new using the old ones is the normal thing to do. Cam chain and tensioner again comes down to how the van is treated. Workshop suggests 90,000 and 130,000 miles. From my own personal experience I have been driving my van since 2009 and it already had 420k kilometers when I picked it up. How many miles a vehicle has driven doesn't concern me. It's how it's been treated and the condition it is in is what I look at. parts can be change and probably have been a few times so miles no longer tell the true story. My personal van now almost 600k Ks has never had a blown head gasket or the sump removed. I only use the best oils and fuels in all my cars/vans and never let the fuel guage go below 1/4 tank. Thanks for your comment. Cheers.
I just started this job. This is super helpful👍. I'm going to lower the engine tomorrow. If you or anyone can see this, I was wondering, did you have to note how the teeth were when you pulled the distributor? My Corolla, you have to, otherwise you'll be left guessing on how it was... or you have to retime it.
Glad it helped. The distributor on the Previa can only go back in one way. You'll be ok.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima Thanks a lot! 😀
I got everything out, repaired, and back in perfectly following this brilliant video Samay, on my 1993 Previa. Just finished my second round of 90 degree tightening sequence, when my friend pointed to the old Chilton manual saying I should have squeezed a couple inches of gasket sealant along an edge in the timing chain compartment next to where the gasket ends before reassembling. Is this true? Or just a preference. I find nothing about it in any other literature. If true, I will undo everything and get a new gasket and head bolts and redo after laying the sealant in that area between the block and head. There are 3 rectangular cavities on the block side of the head on that edge. Perhaps this is just a precaution?
Not needed on the head and todays head gaskets are much better than they were 20 years ago. Are you sure he didn't miss-read the manual? when putting the Valve-Cover back on the head I know the manual says to apply gasket sealant to the front and rear of the gasket where it arches but only lightly don't overdo it.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima Thx very much for reply. I should have been more specific but I don't even know what to call the area I'm trying to describe. I am THAT not mechanical. Your video has allowed me to achieve a repair no one had thought possible of me (that includes me!) and I am very grateful because my Previa is very important to me. Thankfully I do at least understand that I do not need to put gasket sealer on today's gasket. Which is why I am confused. But, the Chilton manual Section 3-31, Step 22, Fig. 101 has me placing an inch of seal packing on either side of the chain guide on the block before placing the gasket on and then the head. There is a transition there from one metal to another - from the cylinders to the chain cavity - a thin straight line is visible where these metals meet, but my test for warpage showed they are even in height. Perhaps sealant there was once a needed precaution along this transition? I am grateful for any further help.
I kept doing my homework and what I found is lots of opinions on forums but professionals say don't use gasket sealant on the block anywhere. I also just reviewed Samay's and friend's video and at 1:03:58 there is clearly NO sealant of any kind anywhere on the old block...which was the same for me. So, despite the Chilton manual instruction from 23 years ago, even my van had no sealant way back then and she's older than the manual! Thanks again to Samay and friends for this amazing, empowering video!
No need of gasket sealant in any area. The area you had mentioned in the timing chain slot, there's no pressure in that area, so need to worry about it, and there's already silicone already came on the gasket itself(you could feel the silicone it), that's enough to prevent oil from leaking out.
I got a question, I forgot to set the 10mm screw locking the split great before taking out the exhaust came. How do I set that back?
Happens to us all. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the cam again.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I have not yet installed the cam. Do I need just to turn it to match the nearest hole?
@Hugo Melo Simple answer is yes. Long answer, It's hard to do by hand. You need to put the cam in a vice [ wrap it in something soft as to not damage the cam ] make a tool or buy a camshaft pulley holder will do the trick. You will see a hole that doesn't go through. put the tool in that hole and the other part pushes against the Sub-Gear and then turn it until the holes line up and then put your Service Bolt in. I hope that makes sense to you. here is an image I found of a tool you could use lincos.tools/5578-large_default/adjustable-camshaft-pulley-holder-length-420mm.jpg This only happened to me once many years ago and I made my own tool to do the job. Also, try to put a bit of rubber, cut a bike tire, or something just to protect the gear as you push force against it. This has not happened to me with a Previa so I am not sure how hard it is to turn by hand or if you need the tool. I hope this helps.
I find an oil filter removal wrench will work on turning the split gear to put in the bolt.
Well done!. Success!. Good jobs!..
Hello my friend, I am Osama from Iraq. He has a Toyota Previa, and the exhaust smells like gas. Even when I walk, the smell of gas is annoying. What is the solution? Please, I am one of the participants, your approved girls
Sounds like either your cold start injector isn't cutting off or maybe your O2 sensor is faulty always reported to the ecu your running lean so the ecu adds more fuel. Check for error codes.
I am getting ready to have this job done to my van. Do you have a contact number I can reach you? I have a few question such as replacement gasket OEM vs fel-pro and if timing chain components should be replaced among other questions. Thank you!
Coolant leaking out of flex pipe. Is that sign headgasket is done?
Are you talking about the flex pipe behind the Exhaust manifold? If so you may have a blown head gasket... If you live where it snows it could also be heavy condensation.
I have some decent mechanical abilities, I've pulled / rebuilt engines before, how long does this job take for someone who isn't experienced in previas? A day to remove the head? 2 days?
If you follow the clip as a guide and you have the tools you need and the height to move around under the van. Even if you have never done one before you can have it out in about 4 hrs. The Previa Legend in America can have it out in just under 1hr but he has all the tools plus some and a lift. So depending on what your conditions are depends on how long it will take.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima k
Great video!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Do you have a shop? If so, how much would it cost to have the HG work? Thanks!
I don't and I am located in Australia. Samay does and he is located in America. You didn't mention where you are but if in America I would strongly suggest contacting Samay on FB facebook.com/samay.sengamphan
Thanks a lot!
You're welcome!
Where i can find service manual for this car, please?
you can try eBay but here is an online workshop if it helps. tpeworkshop.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_83.html
@@TaragoPreviaEstima thank you
Can anyone help me out? 1998 2rzfe. A small drill bit fell into the little oil port on the left front of the block deck that lubes the timing chain tensioner. How can I remove it? Please help me out guys. Thank you. Darrell
Sorry to hear that, It looks like you are going to need to remove the timing cover to remove the drill bit.
I'm not certain where it fell into, but perhaps if you could get a small bendable magnet or magnetic strip and slowly poke it into the area where you dropped the drill bit, you may just get lucky. DON'T LOSE THE MAGNET !
Thanks fellows. Have a nice day.
Samay. Bro do you have a video instructing how to properly remove a Toyota 2rzfe or 3rzfe timing chain cover?
@@TaragoPreviaEstima I got the bit out using the insides of a bic pen. Thank God "no messy with timing cover and the like" thanks fellas. You guys rock!
What do you use to safely mark the pucks to keep them organized?
Permanent oil paint marker pen.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima thanks!
Yes!!
I notice he doesn’t put any sealant on his head gasket. Is it not necessary?
Thanks for watching. No it's not needed but if re-using a used gasket that for some reason the head needed removing again and you want to try and save a dollar some people use copper sealant.
In the old days, when the quality of the head gasket was not good, the old timer used to spray the copper spray gasket maker on all of their gaskets to get better seal and help heat transfer and better better between the two surfaces. Nowadays, we have better gaskets, especially the head gasket so such practices were no longer necessary. I wouldn't recommend reuse a head gasket, once the torques are applied, the gasket would be compressed adn crushed. Best to get a new gasket for a piece of mind.
I’ve left a text above about Chilton manual directing use of sealant NOT on the gasket itself, but along the block where the gasket’s edge would end beside the timing chain cavity. I am unable to go further until this is understood to be necessary as I have already reassembled the head back on and the location is now unreachable. Any thoughts or links to help answer this question are much appreciated. Thank you.
@@Previalegend .
@@VicfromOregon If you feel the edge of the gasket on the timing chain area, you will find that there is already extra sealant on that area. Therefore, there's no need to add more sealant on it. However, if you really want to just apply a light coat of sealant on it. That area has no compression so there isn't really a need to worry so much. The only thing it seals on that area is the oil, which the coating on the gasket which it came with would be enough.
hi there your engine use super charge or not?
We don't have SC Previa in Australia. The Previa Legend in America dose.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima ohh really thanz for the information.
Amazing video, i just bought a 95 all track s/c and i fear the day it will be my turn to do this 😂
Welcom the the Previa family :) Don't over work the engine. Keep it under 5k RPM and always look after your fluids and you may never have to do this job.
@@TaragoPreviaEstima i have an issue with my front driveshaft, issue being its not there, and i cant find a replacement part no matter where i look, any advice?
@@theonlyspartan34 The only advice I can offer is that you need to find a parts van or buy one online. You could ask in one of the Facebook groups if anyone would sell and post you an old one. There is no other cars or vans that use the same S.A.D.S. driveshaft.
@@theonlyspartan34 have you checked rock auto? I’ve also seen them for relatively cheap on buyee, a Japanese auction site. Though shipping might be a bit much. Hope you can find it
@@mechamoto6102 i went to a pick N pull, found the only all-trac for 300 miles and pulled the front shaft off, worked like a charm and i got some plastic parts to replace my missing/damaged bits. Thanks for the advice
nice my friend
Thank you 👍
Super👍
Thank you 👍
А на русском языке где найти такой же видео
Super!!!
شكرا.