RUclips amazes me. I couldn’t figure out how to get the light apart using the instructions that came with the light but voilà, here is the perfect video on RUclips. I’m having an electric electrician install these. I could’ve done it myself especially now that I watched this video. Thanks for taking the time to put this video together.
This was a very helpful video. I agree with Tammie- the instructions that came with the Enlighten light were in such small print that they were worthless.
Great detailed video…but…you are working with 20 amp, 12/2 wire (yellow). This is the standard for kitchens. You are downgrading to 14/2 wire. Used mostly for lights and receptacles. The 20 amp yellow is going to draw more amperage as it should. You needed to stay with 12/2 wire. Is it going to be a problem? Not likely, but it is not code. Also. When going thru the jagged hole in the back of the fixture, best to use a plastic grommet. This protects the wire from fraying. Either that or use armored cable. Just my two cents…thank you for the video regardless
Thanks for the comment / questions. Some people have come on here and yelled at me and said that wasn't up to code. I find that odd because code changes from state to state and county to county. So what would be a code violation for someone isn't for someone else. That is up to you to check out for your area. Some states want full control of everything, whether they know what they are doing or not. Now, what about actual functionality. Yes I am downgrading from the 12/2 to 14/2, but the only thing on the 14/2 are the lights. And they are LED on top of that. If I cut the 12/2 to make a loop for the lights then back to the 12/2 then that would be wrong. Hopefully I didn't make that sound confusing. Bottom line is that the lights are the only thing on the 14/2, nothing else. If they had their own power cord and plugged into an outlet and then each fixture linked to the next they would be using 16 gauge wire. So, my opinion is that I am actually upgrading the wire up to 14 gauge, not down. You also mention using plastic grommets. Not a bad idea at all. In this video I cut the hole in the wall / bottom of cabinet the same size as the light fixture so that should guide the wire in without cutting it. Hopefully that answers your questions. Thanks again
Only problem I have run into is that the various lengths put out different lumens. If you want the lights to remain consistent either you have to go with a LED light strip or buy all the same lengths to have the lighting consistent. Example 18” - 850 lumens. 12” - 570 lumens.
I follow what you are saying, but I think you are reading too much into it. They all put out the same amount of light perspectively. Meaning, they put out the same amount of lumens per linear inch. So, the longer the fixture, the more total lumens. Putting a 24" next to a 48" does not look weird. They look the same. I just put the largest fixture or fixtures that will fit under the cabinets. I hope that helps.
Hello! I'm assuming these direct-wire versions are also linkable. I'm designing the under cabinet lighting for my kitchen remodel. I have an "L" section of cabinets surrounding my range where I'd like to link 3 sets of GE LED bar lights with the switch hard-wired into the middle unit (left of stove). I'd have an 18" linked to a 36", then the stove, and then a 12" to the right of the stove. Can I have these all linked together on one light switch? What cable(s) would I need to link them all together, assuming the middle (36") is hard-wired? I would connect the 36" to the 12" by going up and over the range, through upper cabinets over the hood. I know GE also sells a linkable set, which would require a direct wire converter box. Can I work with the direct-wire set and link them, or do I need to get the linkable ones with a junction box to direct wire?
Carrie, thank you for your comment / question. These are linkable, but not in the way you are talking about with a premade cable and just connecting two units. They interlink just the way that I show here in this video. By taking the romax wire and running it from one to the next. Now, like in this video I have them all on one switch. It almost sounds like you are asking if you can mix inter-linkable lights with these direct wire lights? So I honestly don't understand your entire question there. Feel free to keep asking me questions and you can go to my website and hit up my contact page. After that you can send pics to me that may help me understand your situation. www.aroundthehome.org/
I just want to hard wire my new light LED fixure to the live cable that comes out of the wall. But can't do it because the three wires from the new fixure have these plugs that must go into some time of box. The cables are color coordinated and have been terminated by these strange looking oversized " old fashion telephone plugs". The fixure also came with extra hardware that is exactly identical to what comes out of the wall and into the old light fixure. So I have no idea what to do.
I would love to help, but have no clue as to what you have run int. If you want additional tips, if you go to my website and submit a contact submission, then you would be able to send some pics. www.aroundthehome.org/
Great vid, thanks! We have GE under cabinet lighting that was installed about 14 years ago w/ florescent bulbs - which suck (replacement bulbs are super hard to find and are not dimmable). I wonder if we can swap them out w/ these newer LED's? Another project to put on the board, thanks!
The wires should all be there for you. I have swapped out those old florescent units for LED's plenty of times, and the customer is always amazed on how much nicer the LED's are. 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
I always install a dimmer switch for them for that like this one www.amazon.com/Lutron-dimmable-Incandescent-Single-Pole-AYCL-153P-WH/dp/B006UTQCA2?crid=9RVAPLMZHASM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bhgt0gMDYB4dkVxo92tSZ0tTqf04_qUZ4lDayRSA180yFNJ_BCbk74UTYgaABgPm5q5BnsEqm9wlntDPqKd9-5l7CtuN1fT881tuLvh2iSKW0Hr97vAvm6SJKDI6j2JgMpjb-Eih6ppv85cs7kcT-dH79ZdE2aeDd54ABRx1LTg6HoqYykXi0SVHupTl1vq7leKrLVCplx3_flQp_cv57jpp7zEJbBIqes_-_QrxUo5nkdtcVb1wbAcQRRsHQi6QF0MgWEEfhABqvcwesoB77nKaPFLjrnXjNKLV07D9Qcg.3rrYUShZM_QrH0oGELBBYZcfyajs4YnMfreakRaLdn0&dib_tag=se&keywords=lutron+dimmer&qid=1710843899&sprefix=lutron+dimmer%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-6&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=302b8e980161ffab2ccad84245a2a467&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I live in a single-wide mobile home. I want to wire this in....I've got two outlets and a non-connected power switch (which goes to the light above my sink nearby) within reach, however, I also don't want to tear apart my tiled wall to do this....never mind the fact that I also know nothing about wires or wiring, or electrical boxes, etc etc. So I think, for now, I'm going to get the plug-in option....not ideal, but better than nothing, and my kitchen desperately needs it. I'm going to link two lights together on one set of cabinets (24" and 12" respectively), and then a stand-alone on the other. Question: does the mounting screws come with the fixture? If not, what screws would you recommend to mount these with? I don't want to go through the bottom of my cabinet....my mother did that once with a paper towel dispenser, and there were always two sharp points sticking through the bottom of the dish cabinet after that, lol. Thanks for the video!
I have worked with a number of these under cabinet type lights and they have all come with mounting screws. If you have some that don't, or are missing them, then just some normal pan head wood screws that aren't too long. If you already have some screws that went through, then take a look at how much of the screw is actually in the wood. Take account for the thickness of the mounting part of your paper towel holder and the thickness of the mount for the light. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
What I wish I knew is how long they will last. I got two to replace two bathroom lights that don't last long. My house was built in 1962 and had nothing remodeled sense it was new.
Well, I know of a few of my customers that have had them for over 2 years now and probably run them almost 24/7 with no problems. But that's the oldest ones like these that I have experience to say for sure.
No problem. I just put another set in this week and if I remember right the box listed a lifetime warranty. I don't know what that covers, but I feel that these are some of the best lights in this category.
Great video man, very descriptive. Wish I was working with a totally open wall like you, unfortunately I need to cut a rectangular piece out of the existing drywall because I still need to put a backsplash on. And it’s an exterior wall so I get to mess with the insulation. Any tips there?
Sure. Actually most of the under cabinet lights for kitchens that I have done were on exterior walls. And I am assuming that you don't have a tile backsplash to cut out before you put the new one in. So I would just cut a foot wide strip, most of the length out so that I could work. Just push the insulation back when you are working, not a big deal. Now, normally the drywall seam between the lower piece of sheetrock and the upper one is right there. So, chances are you are not putting back the piece that you cut out. Just make sure to draw straight lines and cut well so that it is easy to cut a new piece of drywall to put back in place when you are done. Do you have a rotozip or a dremel? Here is an older video on that. ruclips.net/video/RcyL9GfLKoY/видео.html Hope that helps.
I am starting this project and this video was fantastic! Question: When I am ready to move to the other side of the kitchen my plan is to direct wire the last (daisy chained) light and run romex to the attic across and then down to opposite wall. Can this be done? Just looking at the design it appears once hardwire is run the lights depend on the daisy chain method.
Sure, that can be done. It is a little more work and depending on your personal attic is really the case. Sometimes it's almost impossible because one wall of the kitchen is an outside wall so not only do you have to fight the insulation to bring the wire through, but when you are in the attic you are at the smallest end of the rafters so getting there may be a physical feat. That's why I almost always put two switches in when there are two kitchens walls apart from each other.
That is one mounting option. I tried that the first time I put them in. I found that the light output was better this way, not at the front. And the fact that all wires are hidden by installing this way was another plus. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
There are a lot of variables there for me to know what could be wrong. The first thing I would do is get a tester on the wires going into the light and make sure there is an active circuit there with 110 ~ 120 volts. Hope that helps.
Codes change from county to county. You should check with your local codes to find out. But if you are asking what I would recommend, then yes, a 12/2 plus ground on a 20 amp breaker would be the way I go in the kitchen. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
@@AroundTheHome1 Thank you for replying, I will check into it locally as I'm doing this same thing to my kitchen this weekend. I'll be sure to check out your others thanks.
Suppose im using a led dimmer switch with a gfi outlet.....my ledd dimmer directions says to not use the top screw unless its a double switched light so would my black, wire just go out the other side the only remaining screw, to the lights....? Or would it go out of the same hot screw jumped from the outlet? Thanks if anyone can answer !!!
RUclips amazes me. I couldn’t figure out how to get the light apart using the instructions that came with the light but voilà, here is the perfect video on RUclips. I’m having an electric electrician install these. I could’ve done it myself especially now that I watched this video.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
This was a very helpful video. I agree with Tammie- the instructions that came with the Enlighten light were in such small print that they were worthless.
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Excellent tutorial. Well explained and thorough. Thank you!
You're very welcome! 👍😎
Thank you!!🙌🏼 Trying to install an under cabinet light & the instructions that came with it are crap! Followed your video & it installed perfectly!😊👍
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Great tutorial. Getting ready to do the same project for backsplash and lights.
👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Great detailed video…but…you are working with 20 amp, 12/2 wire (yellow). This is the standard for kitchens. You are downgrading to 14/2 wire. Used mostly for lights and receptacles. The 20 amp yellow is going to draw more amperage as it should. You needed to stay with 12/2 wire. Is it going to be a problem? Not likely, but it is not code. Also. When going thru the jagged hole in the back of the fixture, best to use a plastic grommet. This protects the wire from fraying. Either that or use armored cable.
Just my two cents…thank you for the video regardless
Thanks for the comment / questions. Some people have come on here and yelled at me and said that wasn't up to code. I find that odd because code changes from state to state and county to county. So what would be a code violation for someone isn't for someone else. That is up to you to check out for your area. Some states want full control of everything, whether they know what they are doing or not. Now, what about actual functionality. Yes I am downgrading from the 12/2 to 14/2, but the only thing on the 14/2 are the lights. And they are LED on top of that. If I cut the 12/2 to make a loop for the lights then back to the 12/2 then that would be wrong. Hopefully I didn't make that sound confusing. Bottom line is that the lights are the only thing on the 14/2, nothing else. If they had their own power cord and plugged into an outlet and then each fixture linked to the next they would be using 16 gauge wire. So, my opinion is that I am actually upgrading the wire up to 14 gauge, not down. You also mention using plastic grommets. Not a bad idea at all. In this video I cut the hole in the wall / bottom of cabinet the same size as the light fixture so that should guide the wire in without cutting it. Hopefully that answers your questions.
Thanks again
@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks...i'm getting ready to do my under-cabinet lights
Amazing video!! We remodeled our kitchen fall of 2021 and used this exact method. Thank you so so much for sharing!!
You are so welcome! 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Most useful instructions I have found for GE under counter light installation.
Only problem I have run into is that the various lengths put out different lumens. If you want the lights to remain consistent either you have to go with a LED light strip or buy all the same lengths to have the lighting consistent.
Example 18” - 850 lumens.
12” - 570 lumens.
I follow what you are saying, but I think you are reading too much into it. They all put out the same amount of light perspectively. Meaning, they put out the same amount of lumens per linear inch. So, the longer the fixture, the more total lumens. Putting a 24" next to a 48" does not look weird. They look the same. I just put the largest fixture or fixtures that will fit under the cabinets. I hope that helps.
Hello! I'm assuming these direct-wire versions are also linkable. I'm designing the under cabinet lighting for my kitchen remodel. I have an "L" section of cabinets surrounding my range where I'd like to link 3 sets of GE LED bar lights with the switch hard-wired into the middle unit (left of stove). I'd have an 18" linked to a 36", then the stove, and then a 12" to the right of the stove. Can I have these all linked together on one light switch? What cable(s) would I need to link them all together, assuming the middle (36") is hard-wired? I would connect the 36" to the 12" by going up and over the range, through upper cabinets over the hood. I know GE also sells a linkable set, which would require a direct wire converter box. Can I work with the direct-wire set and link them, or do I need to get the linkable ones with a junction box to direct wire?
Carrie, thank you for your comment / question. These are linkable, but not in the way you are talking about with a premade cable and just connecting two units. They interlink just the way that I show here in this video. By taking the romax wire and running it from one to the next. Now, like in this video I have them all on one switch. It almost sounds like you are asking if you can mix inter-linkable lights with these direct wire lights? So I honestly don't understand your entire question there. Feel free to keep asking me questions and you can go to my website and hit up my contact page. After that you can send pics to me that may help me understand your situation. www.aroundthehome.org/
Amazing video, how many lights can I connect up to on one circuit?
Great video, you cleared up a lot of confusion.
Glad it was helpful! 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Fantastic video brother! Thank you! I'm currently in the middle of a kitchen reno and this video was a big help
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you so much for the detail video !
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
I just want to hard wire my new light LED fixure to the live cable that comes out of the wall. But can't do it because the three wires from the new fixure have these plugs that must go into some time of box. The cables are color coordinated and have been terminated by these strange looking oversized " old fashion telephone plugs". The fixure also came with extra hardware that is exactly identical to what comes out of the wall and into the old light fixure. So I have no idea what to do.
I would love to help, but have no clue as to what you have run int. If you want additional tips, if you go to my website and submit a contact submission, then you would be able to send some pics. www.aroundthehome.org/
Great vid, thanks! We have GE under cabinet lighting that was installed about 14 years ago w/ florescent bulbs - which suck (replacement bulbs are super hard to find and are not dimmable). I wonder if we can swap them out w/ these newer LED's? Another project to put on the board, thanks!
The wires should all be there for you. I have swapped out those old florescent units for LED's plenty of times, and the customer is always amazed on how much nicer the LED's are. 👍 So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Do these light have a brightness settings? Do you still like this brand ? Thanks
I always install a dimmer switch for them for that like this one www.amazon.com/Lutron-dimmable-Incandescent-Single-Pole-AYCL-153P-WH/dp/B006UTQCA2?crid=9RVAPLMZHASM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bhgt0gMDYB4dkVxo92tSZ0tTqf04_qUZ4lDayRSA180yFNJ_BCbk74UTYgaABgPm5q5BnsEqm9wlntDPqKd9-5l7CtuN1fT881tuLvh2iSKW0Hr97vAvm6SJKDI6j2JgMpjb-Eih6ppv85cs7kcT-dH79ZdE2aeDd54ABRx1LTg6HoqYykXi0SVHupTl1vq7leKrLVCplx3_flQp_cv57jpp7zEJbBIqes_-_QrxUo5nkdtcVb1wbAcQRRsHQi6QF0MgWEEfhABqvcwesoB77nKaPFLjrnXjNKLV07D9Qcg.3rrYUShZM_QrH0oGELBBYZcfyajs4YnMfreakRaLdn0&dib_tag=se&keywords=lutron+dimmer&qid=1710843899&sprefix=lutron+dimmer%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-6&linkCode=ll1&tag=greatwhitenin-20&linkId=302b8e980161ffab2ccad84245a2a467&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
I live in a single-wide mobile home. I want to wire this in....I've got two outlets and a non-connected power switch (which goes to the light above my sink nearby) within reach, however, I also don't want to tear apart my tiled wall to do this....never mind the fact that I also know nothing about wires or wiring, or electrical boxes, etc etc. So I think, for now, I'm going to get the plug-in option....not ideal, but better than nothing, and my kitchen desperately needs it. I'm going to link two lights together on one set of cabinets (24" and 12" respectively), and then a stand-alone on the other.
Question: does the mounting screws come with the fixture? If not, what screws would you recommend to mount these with? I don't want to go through the bottom of my cabinet....my mother did that once with a paper towel dispenser, and there were always two sharp points sticking through the bottom of the dish cabinet after that, lol.
Thanks for the video!
I have worked with a number of these under cabinet type lights and they have all come with mounting screws. If you have some that don't, or are missing them, then just some normal pan head wood screws that aren't too long. If you already have some screws that went through, then take a look at how much of the screw is actually in the wood. Take account for the thickness of the mounting part of your paper towel holder and the thickness of the mount for the light. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Im so late to the party but can i ask what wire you are using here?
You can ask. I used 14-2 with ground
Thank you soooooo much! This was such a great help!
Glad it helped! Thank you! 😊 And thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Sick vid bro that was great!!
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
THANNNNK YOU SIRRRRRRRRRR! YOU ARE truly a life saver!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
What I wish I knew is how long they will last. I got two to replace two bathroom lights that don't last long. My house was built in 1962 and had nothing remodeled sense it was new.
Are you saying you got these same lights - GE Embrighten - and they didn't last long?
@@AroundTheHome1 no I said I hope they last. I'm just saying it would have been a waste of time if they don't.
Well, I know of a few of my customers that have had them for over 2 years now and probably run them almost 24/7 with no problems. But that's the oldest ones like these that I have experience to say for sure.
@@AroundTheHome1 thank you for the info.
No problem. I just put another set in this week and if I remember right the box listed a lifetime warranty. I don't know what that covers, but I feel that these are some of the best lights in this category.
Great video man, very descriptive. Wish I was working with a totally open wall like you, unfortunately I need to cut a rectangular piece out of the existing drywall because I still need to put a backsplash on. And it’s an exterior wall so I get to mess with the insulation. Any tips there?
Sure. Actually most of the under cabinet lights for kitchens that I have done were on exterior walls. And I am assuming that you don't have a tile backsplash to cut out before you put the new one in. So I would just cut a foot wide strip, most of the length out so that I could work. Just push the insulation back when you are working, not a big deal. Now, normally the drywall seam between the lower piece of sheetrock and the upper one is right there. So, chances are you are not putting back the piece that you cut out. Just make sure to draw straight lines and cut well so that it is easy to cut a new piece of drywall to put back in place when you are done. Do you have a rotozip or a dremel? Here is an older video on that. ruclips.net/video/RcyL9GfLKoY/видео.html
Hope that helps.
does this outlet stop working while light switch is on ?
Nope, there is no problem with the outlets when this is done.
@@AroundTheHome1 Thanks for the reply=)
I Hate trying to get the wires back into the box!
I know, right. That sucks. Thanks for still watching my videos man!
especially on a 12 inch. $%#@%!
I ordered the wrong thing. I was like where’s the dang cable?
I am starting this project and this video was fantastic! Question: When I am ready to move to the other side of the kitchen my plan is to direct wire the last (daisy chained) light and run romex to the attic across and then down to opposite wall. Can this be done? Just looking at the design it appears once hardwire is run the lights depend on the daisy chain method.
Sure, that can be done. It is a little more work and depending on your personal attic is really the case. Sometimes it's almost impossible because one wall of the kitchen is an outside wall so not only do you have to fight the insulation to bring the wire through, but when you are in the attic you are at the smallest end of the rafters so getting there may be a physical feat. That's why I almost always put two switches in when there are two kitchens walls apart from each other.
can you change that to a dimmer switch
Absolutely. Here is my favorite one. ruclips.net/video/rrrmk44xilE/видео.html
Weren't these lights designed to be mounted at the front of the cabinet and point towards the backsplash?
That is one mounting option. I tried that the first time I put them in. I found that the light output was better this way, not at the front. And the fact that all wires are hidden by installing this way was another plus. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Very cool , but I would of used a dimmer switch.
I did when all done. This one in fact. ruclips.net/video/rrrmk44xilE/видео.html
tnx for the instructions
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
This was really helpful, thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
What happens once you connect and the light doesn’t work. Should I cut back some of the covering on the wires
There are a lot of variables there for me to know what could be wrong. The first thing I would do is get a tester on the wires going into the light and make sure there is an active circuit there with 110 ~ 120 volts. Hope that helps.
Good video. The 1-page instructions that came with the light were worthless.
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Thank you!
So glad to help! Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
Is it code to use 12/2 and 20 amp outlets in the kitchen?
Codes change from county to county. You should check with your local codes to find out. But if you are asking what I would recommend, then yes, a 12/2 plus ground on a 20 amp breaker would be the way I go in the kitchen. Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org
@@AroundTheHome1 Thank you for replying, I will check into it locally as I'm doing this same thing to my kitchen this weekend. I'll be sure to check out your others thanks.
Suppose im using a led dimmer switch with a gfi outlet.....my ledd dimmer directions says to not use the top screw unless its a double switched light so would my black, wire just go out the other side the only remaining screw, to the lights....? Or would it go out of the same hot screw jumped from the outlet? Thanks if anyone can answer !!!
Which dimmer switch do you have?
Professional install - no Mickey Mouse job.
Thank you for watching. Check out hundreds more of our videos at www.aroundthehome.org