I don’t know if it was the fishies swimming, or maybe the beautiful engine on the stand, and the romantic music playing... but I was falling in love 😍!
Hi guys just got to say i just Love your craftsmanship , I have been a Mechanic here in the UK and love pulling engines apart to see what i could do to make them go faster i have a particular fondness for the classic Mini and thats where i started at age 13 now 47 and thinking of converting the BMW Mini R56 to a 4x4 VTEC Turbo of course. I have the skillset to pull off such a conversion as 1 of my mates owns runs his own bodyshop so all the fab will be done there and my other good mate owns and runs a CAD CNC SHOP so its just a matter of time , i was wondering though do you ship to the UK best wishes SCOOBS UK.
So glad the fish arrived safe & sound👍🏻. Awesome video !! Another exceptional build going on over a humble. love these in-depth motor builds, so clean n simple.
Cant wait im a da fan i have a 500hp one tune my pfi and same set up css block gard and piston rods stock crank and stock head with the ebay gt3582 turbo on it at 18psi so yous will make the power check out mine (still clownin integra) its under lsv motor
I spent $1000 on "all" oem gaskets, oil pump, water pump and a bunch fasteners! I cheaped out on NOTHING. JE head gasket. 4P head, all Ferrara, CSS block. Traum pistons Skunk2 rods. 1320 top mount, 6266 Turbo. The new Injector Dynamics 1700ccX injectors. Skunk2 intake, Skunk2 74mm throttle body. Head and block were assembled by 4P and CNC Werx. I spared no exspence. I'm hoping for 600 on q16 and know one is touching this motor besides Alex at HP for the tune! Its only a 10 hour trailer ride for the car to get to Alex. PS. The one thing I dont do is billet aluminum oil filler cap. OEM abs only, I don't need to tell you why lol.
I usually don't comment but i have to say watching ur content makes me want to be a Honda tuner / engine builder more than anything I don't care bout long hours hurt hands or anything like that I own a k24 integra where do I go from here ? Love the vid keep em coming thanks
Kenny bro, yall should do a whole b18c turbo full rebuild from bare block and head to full assemble episode with Bolo(the fat guy?). dude need some recognition for his hard work in the engine room.
Changing cams is super easy on the older B series engines , you can even install aftermarket dual titanium valve springs and titanium retainers without removing the cylinder head from the motor , you just need this special valve spring compressor tool that comes with a hose that threads into the spark plug hole of each cylinder which you keep hooked up to a compressor with continuous air pressure in the line . The tool is like $200 or so , at least 15 years ago when I bought mine that's about what I paid for it. It allows you to remove the valve spring keepers and the the retainers and springs without worrying about dropping valve into the combustion chamber. This tool really serves no purpose though if your removing the cylinder head any way to build the block or for any other reason, but if your not rebuilding/building the block and don't have to remove the cyl head to access anything , the special tool I mentioned is a huge huge time saver in allowing you to install after market cams , retainers and valve springs without having to remove the cylinder head from the block, it's also a great tool to use to save a ton of time when installing new valve stem seals which is initially what I bought mine for. Well worth the money and the tool I bought which I believe was made by OTC Tools I believe works on all 4cyl engine family Honda engines pretty much as far as I remember. The tool also saves you money because if you don't need to remove the cyl head, you dont have to buy a head gasket set or new cyl head mounting bolts , or head studs, also dont have to even completely remove the timing belt as long as you keep upwards tension on where It wraps around the crankshaft timing gear and your positive the belt has not shifting any teeth at all you can technically leave it partially on with upwards tension on it like I said and only have to remove the drive belts , crank pulley and upper and lower timing belt covers. Though if you haven't installed a new timing belt , tensioner and waterpump in a few years and/or it's got some hard use on it , I'd highly suggest spending the extra $150 to replace the timing belt , tensioner and water pump , all OEM parts are far better than AutoZone crap. I'd also recommend replacing the front crank seal at the same time because it's literally right there completely acxessable once you tear it down for a full timing belt job and cams/springs/retainers job , only extra part you need to remove to do rhe crank seal is the crankshaft timing gear which just slides off , don't loose the woodruff key though , there's also a little thin metal space you slide off after you remove the crank gear , make sure you put that spacer back in on the right side of the timing gear. If you've never really been inside a B series motor or any motors in general , but have some decent mechanical ability in doing some of your own repairs and builds , I'd suggest dont be intimidated to get into the motor , they are so simplistic once you get into it , it's alot easier than it initially seems, and you gain the new knowledge , so dig in!
Saludos desde Oregon mi jente. LA HUMILDAD PERSEVERA DIOS LO BENDIGA. Montando seteo nuevo para este verano aca para que se siga rascando la competencia
I'm pumped for this build. I just did basically the same with my JDM B18C Type-R engine in my EK Civic, but no eBay parts...so far with my Turbonetics 60-1 Hifi, and my FID 1000cc injectors at 66% duty cycle on E85 it made 508 whp on 18 psi through a GSR trans with an OBX LSD. It just cuts the damn tires loose. I really need to set up my boost by gear now that all of the components are installed.
@@Seeeeyaaaa Honestly, I upgraded the Belleville washers in it before I installed it and I have had no issues so far (knock on wood). I am using standard LS/GS/RS Integra axles and they work just fine. They're a little tougher to engage the snap ring into the diff, but not too bad. I have pushed 508 whp through it so far and it grabs right away, no problem. I paid $500 for it. I'm sure a Quaife or M-Factory would be better, but I've heard horror stories about those as well. If you can get your hands on the upgraded Belleville washers (I think I paid $40 for them), then the OBX isn't a bad diff for the money. Edit: I forgot to mention that the dude that I bought the washer kit off of sent me new ARP bolts for the body of the diff as well.
I don’t have it. My bad I’m gonna give y’all the run down. Basically I bought a “rebuilt motor” and it had a knock and I was told by two different shops it was lma. So I bought all my turbo stuff and all that stuff. Took it to the dyno and it basically blew on the dyno. And they told me that I could reuse everything I have and just swap the blocks. So now I gotta gsr bottom end and I want to have it all put together and what not before January or early January and have it back and running
Omg , that motor is gonna be one nasty little B18 , I can't say it doesn't make me feel pain to see a type R motor with aftermarket internals prepped to be boosted , it does hurt, I can understand maybe pistons if ya wanna raise compression and cams and valve springs and retainers if ya wanna make power up way beyond 9k rpm's but man those engines are hand built in Japan , even the porting and polishing of the cylinder head is don't by hand so I just strongly feel given it's a type R motor that it should be built in a way that keeps it close to its roots , meaning put some huge N/A cams in t and ITB's and high end bolt ons then have it properly tuned , just wish the guy was staying. N/A that's all, I feel like it's a sin kinda to fully build the bottom end of and then boost a genuine Type R b18 motor. To each thieir own thougj rigjt. Why is the fude putting an ebay turbo kit om a genuine almost fully built genuine type R ? Wouldn't you want high end parts for reliability , cause in my eyes power numbers are meaningless if the motor cannot retain reliability of a daily driver or at most weekend warrior /canyon cruiser.
That Tang is sick bro. My dad actually owns an exotic fish breeding website (cichlidstore.com and frontosastore.com) and I have always been around saltwater as well as freshwater aquariums. My dad imports, breeds, and sells African Cichlids. When I was a kid we had a long low profile 600 gallon acrylic aquarium in our living room filled with live coral and all saltwater reef fish like tangs, clowns, blennys, coral banded shrimp, anemones, sponges, and it was beautiful with blue overhead lighting.
Why does everyone put the studs in prior to putting the head on. ARP specifically says this is not required. It's really funny to see people fight to get the heads around the studs. The honda head is designed to have the studs put in after the head is on, think about the stock stud configuration, the dowel pin keeps the alignment not the studs. I hope this helps someone.
Yes because my first h22a had studs and 200 miles later we realized it didn't have any dowels due to other owner or builder and the head slight shifted and the intake valve caught the piston on cylinder 3 but the skunk 2 retainer sheared the top of the valve and bent it destroying the guide but the valve didn't drop.
@@ivtec845 not sleeved just CSS block guard basically converted to closed deck. Its actually pretty affordable much cheaper than actually getting sleeves and good insurance if your making like 450+whp better to just spend a little extra and not worry about brand new motor cracking a sleeve.
Economy rods, stock sleeves, stock cam, this is a budget build. It’s not a low budget build but it’s reasonably priced for anyone building a reliable high power Honda.
Man you guys should seriously open another shop in Houston TX ; )
Theses videos are worth watching!!
I don’t know if it was the fishies swimming, or maybe the beautiful engine on the stand, and the romantic music playing... but I was falling in love 😍!
Hi guys just got to say i just Love your craftsmanship , I have been a Mechanic here in the UK and love pulling engines apart to see what i could do to make them go faster i have a particular fondness for the classic Mini and thats where i started at age 13 now 47 and thinking of converting the BMW Mini R56 to a 4x4 VTEC Turbo of course. I have the skillset to pull off such a conversion as 1 of my mates owns runs his own bodyshop so all the fab will be done there and my other good mate owns and runs a CAD CNC SHOP so its just a matter of time , i was wondering though do you ship to the UK best wishes SCOOBS UK.
So glad the fish arrived safe & sound👍🏻. Awesome video !! Another exceptional build going on over a humble. love these in-depth motor builds, so clean n simple.
That engine looks beautiful thanks for the class my favorite channel 👍🏽
i appreciate u guys at humble performance,hope u all have a Merry Christmas
So clean.. Makes me want my old ef back
Awesome build
Why lube the ARP threads that go into the block? During tourq you don't want them turning at all. Its desired to only have the top nut turn.
Great filming of the assembly process
3:47-4:15 = disappointment... 😉 Love the vids. Would visit if i wasnt in Virginia beach.
Cant wait im a da fan i have a 500hp one tune my pfi and same set up css block gard and piston rods stock crank and stock head with the ebay gt3582 turbo on it at 18psi so yous will make the power check out mine (still clownin integra) its under lsv motor
I like the explanation you guys give.👍
Engine build plus chill sounds= very nice
I spent $1000 on "all" oem gaskets, oil pump, water pump and a bunch fasteners! I cheaped out on NOTHING. JE head gasket. 4P head, all Ferrara, CSS block. Traum pistons Skunk2 rods. 1320 top mount, 6266 Turbo. The new Injector Dynamics 1700ccX injectors. Skunk2 intake, Skunk2 74mm throttle body. Head and block were assembled by 4P and CNC Werx. I spared no exspence. I'm hoping for 600 on q16 and know one is touching this motor besides Alex at HP for the tune! Its only a 10 hour trailer ride for the car to get to Alex. PS. The one thing I dont do is billet aluminum oil filler cap.
OEM abs only, I don't need to tell you why lol.
I usually don't comment but i have to say watching ur content makes me want to be a Honda tuner / engine builder more than anything I don't care bout long hours hurt hands or anything like that I own a k24 integra where do I go from here ? Love the vid keep em coming thanks
Boost it with Humbles budget turbo kit , and let Alex tune it to the moon and back
Kenny bro, yall should do a whole b18c turbo full rebuild from bare block and head to full assemble episode with Bolo(the fat guy?). dude need some recognition for his hard work in the engine room.
Could you add up the cost for me that would be greatly appreciated!
My '94 Integra has 308k and a new timing belt on it. Think it could a turbo?
Great video. Saw you guys at WCF very nice builds
Looks like go change cams on a b series is pretty easy! Excited to see the videos on this!
Changing cams is super easy on the older B series engines , you can even install aftermarket dual titanium valve springs and titanium retainers without removing the cylinder head from the motor , you just need this special valve spring compressor tool that comes with a hose that threads into the spark plug hole of each cylinder which you keep hooked up to a compressor with continuous air pressure in the line . The tool is like $200 or so , at least 15 years ago when I bought mine that's about what I paid for it. It allows you to remove the valve spring keepers and the the retainers and springs without worrying about dropping valve into the combustion chamber. This tool really serves no purpose though if your removing the cylinder head any way to build the block or for any other reason, but if your not rebuilding/building the block and don't have to remove the cyl head to access anything , the special tool I mentioned is a huge huge time saver in allowing you to install after market cams , retainers and valve springs without having to remove the cylinder head from the block, it's also a great tool to use to save a ton of time when installing new valve stem seals which is initially what I bought mine for. Well worth the money and the tool I bought which I believe was made by OTC Tools I believe works on all 4cyl engine family Honda engines pretty much as far as I remember. The tool also saves you money because if you don't need to remove the cyl head, you dont have to buy a head gasket set or new cyl head mounting bolts , or head studs, also dont have to even completely remove the timing belt as long as you keep upwards tension on where It wraps around the crankshaft timing gear and your positive the belt has not shifting any teeth at all you can technically leave it partially on with upwards tension on it like I said and only have to remove the drive belts , crank pulley and upper and lower timing belt covers. Though if you haven't installed a new timing belt , tensioner and waterpump in a few years and/or it's got some hard use on it , I'd highly suggest spending the extra $150 to replace the timing belt , tensioner and water pump , all OEM parts are far better than AutoZone crap. I'd also recommend replacing the front crank seal at the same time because it's literally right there completely acxessable once you tear it down for a full timing belt job and cams/springs/retainers job , only extra part you need to remove to do rhe crank seal is the crankshaft timing gear which just slides off , don't loose the woodruff key though , there's also a little thin metal space you slide off after you remove the crank gear , make sure you put that spacer back in on the right side of the timing gear. If you've never really been inside a B series motor or any motors in general , but have some decent mechanical ability in doing some of your own repairs and builds , I'd suggest dont be intimidated to get into the motor , they are so simplistic once you get into it , it's alot easier than it initially seems, and you gain the new knowledge , so dig in!
Saludos desde Oregon mi jente. LA HUMILDAD PERSEVERA DIOS LO BENDIGA. Montando seteo nuevo para este verano aca para que se siga rascando la competencia
Recuerdos de noches largas para ir la pista de AÑASCO
why not properly torque the screws in engine assembly?
Incredibly satisfying. Also took a few tips as I'm putting my Honda v6 together 💪🏽. Good stuff. Camera quality is on point as well!
A v6 ? As on you doing a J swap on a civic.or integra or what , and what are your plans in building this motor
Oh ok nice una pregunta que tamaño de turbo es bueno para un sohc fully built with 9.5.1 compression is the 35r80 to big
How many step to torque down the head and the torque order ? Thanks look nice
I'm pumped for this build. I just did basically the same with my JDM B18C Type-R engine in my EK Civic, but no eBay parts...so far with my Turbonetics 60-1 Hifi, and my FID 1000cc injectors at 66% duty cycle on E85 it made 508 whp on 18 psi through a GSR trans with an OBX LSD. It just cuts the damn tires loose. I really need to set up my boost by gear now that all of the components are installed.
how do you like the obx lsd? No problems installing it ect?
@@Seeeeyaaaa Honestly, I upgraded the Belleville washers in it before I installed it and I have had no issues so far (knock on wood). I am using standard LS/GS/RS Integra axles and they work just fine. They're a little tougher to engage the snap ring into the diff, but not too bad. I have pushed 508 whp through it so far and it grabs right away, no problem. I paid $500 for it. I'm sure a Quaife or M-Factory would be better, but I've heard horror stories about those as well. If you can get your hands on the upgraded Belleville washers (I think I paid $40 for them), then the OBX isn't a bad diff for the money. Edit: I forgot to mention that the dude that I bought the washer kit off of sent me new ARP bolts for the body of the diff as well.
@@BucksSuperStereoWorld Awesome Bro thanks for the info! 👍
Man that tank is looking good. Humble Performance Tank! 🔥
So satisfying!
Purooo Vtec 🤙🏽
How’s the aquarium
Where do you get your fish from?
Put some spinner hubcaps and stickers on that car with a wing so we will have some rice to go with that fish. Lol!
How much was this? I have a type r motor I wanna boost as well.
I love the music.
You guys used regular arp heads not l19s ?
L19s for 700+
Add some live plants to the tank and soon you’ll have 🐌 🐌 pa venders 😂
oh snap
Great work as always 👌👍🤩
WATCHING THISE GUY IS LIKE WATCHING A MOTHER TAKING CARE AN INFANT. 🤘👍. ACHOOO ASI QUISIERA MI CARRO TODO NUEVO ..PARA FRONTIAR EN EL BARRIO
What kind of lube was that
You don't click it like twice you knock it out of angle
Great vid man I loved it
How can i ship my ef over there to have it k swapped i have all the parts
Message us on social or call: 918-461-8951
Does anyone know where I can find torque specs for installing a b16 head with arp head studs?
Come with the studs
The Torque specs should have came with the ARP Bolts.
I don’t have it. My bad I’m gonna give y’all the run down. Basically I bought a “rebuilt motor” and it had a knock and I was told by two different shops it was lma. So I bought all my turbo stuff and all that stuff. Took it to the dyno and it basically blew on the dyno. And they told me that I could reuse everything I have and just swap the blocks. So now I gotta gsr bottom end and I want to have it all put together and what not before January or early January and have it back and running
When your on a budget but you don’t cut any corners
What grease is he using on the cams
Lucas assembly lube
really nice video!! i like ur intro so much!! i subscribe ur channel now!! what headgasket do u use on this build?
Cometic
What is the name of the song?
Stock cams🤔
What cams ya used?
Stock ITR
This is an eBay build?
That #HUMBLEBAY build
That's a nasty intro 👍👍👍
Big budget build..
Budget build? More like nice build.
Omg , that motor is gonna be one nasty little B18 , I can't say it doesn't make me feel pain to see a type R motor with aftermarket internals prepped to be boosted , it does hurt, I can understand maybe pistons if ya wanna raise compression and cams and valve springs and retainers if ya wanna make power up way beyond 9k rpm's but man those engines are hand built in Japan , even the porting and polishing of the cylinder head is don't by hand so I just strongly feel given it's a type R motor that it should be built in a way that keeps it close to its roots , meaning put some huge N/A cams in t and ITB's and high end bolt ons then have it properly tuned , just wish the guy was staying. N/A that's all, I feel like it's a sin kinda to fully build the bottom end of and then boost a genuine Type R b18 motor. To each thieir own thougj rigjt. Why is the fude putting an ebay turbo kit om a genuine almost fully built genuine type R ? Wouldn't you want high end parts for reliability , cause in my eyes power numbers are meaningless if the motor cannot retain reliability of a daily driver or at most weekend warrior /canyon cruiser.
That Tang is sick bro. My dad actually owns an exotic fish breeding website (cichlidstore.com and frontosastore.com) and I have always been around saltwater as well as freshwater aquariums. My dad imports, breeds, and sells African Cichlids. When I was a kid we had a long low profile 600 gallon acrylic aquarium in our living room filled with live coral and all saltwater reef fish like tangs, clowns, blennys, coral banded shrimp, anemones, sponges, and it was beautiful with blue overhead lighting.
Why does everyone put the studs in prior to putting the head on. ARP specifically says this is not required. It's really funny to see people fight to get the heads around the studs.
The honda head is designed to have the studs put in after the head is on, think about the stock stud configuration, the dowel pin keeps the alignment not the studs.
I hope this helps someone.
Yes because my first h22a had studs and 200 miles later we realized it didn't have any dowels due to other owner or builder and the head slight shifted and the intake valve caught the piston on cylinder 3 but the skunk 2 retainer sheared the top of the valve and bent it destroying the guide but the valve didn't drop.
Makes it significantly easier to see if the studs are all actually bottomed out.
Meh, to each their own, there's nothing wrong with doing it like this. You may be right but I've seen it done this way only.
1:42 got head? Lol
Build off my ls v
How is this budget lol. The only thing it that would make it fully built is mid sleeves I guess???
Basically the only thing budget about it is the turbo lol
831vtc t2 deadass 😂😂😂 idk who budget they basing it of off but it ain’t mine ☠️
@@elmaestro06519 lol I know sleeved block and all
@@ivtec845 not sleeved just CSS block guard basically converted to closed deck. Its actually pretty affordable much cheaper than actually getting sleeves and good insurance if your making like 450+whp better to just spend a little extra and not worry about brand new motor cracking a sleeve.
Who the fuck disliked the video and couldn't have even watched the full thing yet
You didnt acclimate those fish right js
We turned off the lights right after the clip
How the fuck the is a Budget build????? C'mon guys be more real
Economy rods, stock sleeves, stock cam, this is a budget build. It’s not a low budget build but it’s reasonably priced for anyone building a reliable high power Honda.