I had a 93 Honda Civic with a R12 AC system that lost its gas. Paid to have it converted to R134a and found it hopeless. I then took a punt, bought the equipment and filled it with air duster. It was incredible. My face would often freeze. I miss that car. Sold it in 2020.
Used the jaycar servisol air duster because it's already r134a. Used it on an old rebuilt volvo 134a system, injected some pag oil in with it. Used it on bar fridges, portable kings, waeco and trailblaza fridges. Works for a year or 2 until the leaks come back. Instead of piercing cans I made up a dodgy nozzle adapter using nozzles from the nozzles that come with lighter fluid from bunnings. Only used a vacuum on the rebuilt car. With fridges I had to use a supco bullet piercing valve on the low pressure line of the fridges to create a service port but didn't need to use a vacuum. You risk contaminating the lines with air that way but hey, it worked.
@@arconiluka with fridges you can cut off the sealed fill line, flair it and add a shrader valve already on a short copper tube. I have these lying around and they are cheap to buy online. Core is to be removed before brazing on.
I'm running it on an 07 BT50. It's better than r134a if your condenser is small and doesn't perform in hot weather or you don't like the feel of the power loss of R134a when fully charged in hot weather. Although R134a has more kick, you pay for it with the power required to drive the compressor. How I charged it is place the system under a typical load, ie on a hot day, put car in sun, at idle, roll windows up and wait for the cabin to cool off. Charge until the TX valve is satisfied, ie the suction line temp is more or less the same as the suction pressure or in other words the superheat is 10 degrees or less. Also due to it's higher thermal conductivity than r134a it will perform better in tube and fin heat exchanger systems. I've also modified the evaporator temperature sensor amp circuit to allow adjustment of the evaporator temperature. I don't know how the vent temperatures compare to R134a since I just adjust the set point to how I like. With R134a I set the set point to sub zero and when the vehicle is in motion it makes breathing uncomfortable like you are in a walk in freezer. The first time round I charged by weight by using the ratio of molecular weight between r152a and r134a and multiplying by the factory charge spec. Turned out to be slightly undercharged in my case.
By the way, I have recently replaced the R15 fan resistor but the first speed never kicks on with the AC on and it's been pretty hot these days here in Portugal, so I would expect it to turn on. The resistor is fine as far as I can tell, at least it measures the correct 0.2 Ohm resistance value.
will need to study the wiring diagram and check the relevant relays / switches etc. You can find it by searching for W124 ETM. It is free, no need to pay for it. If someone asks for money, keep searching.
Did this on my Hilux Surf a few years ago (WD40 branded air duster uses the same gas BTW). It would freeze the evaporator over when the blower fan speed was set too low with a high humidity, so I'd say it was effective. That's car now has R134A in it as I did an engine swap and had to have new hoses made anyway. Those can taps are as sketchy as they look, had mine crack after a few goes, if people plan to do this, just be careful when puncturing the can. I've since switched to HyChill for my other cars as the taps for those are much less sketch, you can pretty confident the gas is clean and it has similar benefits to R152A in that you need much less of it (by weight) than R134A.
@@arconiluka yes, in the cases where there was still gas in the system. Most of the time when I'm using HyChill, I'm starting from a system with no gas left in it, and I always pull a vacuum and charge by weight anyway.
I might use this to check an R12 system for leaks. And. then I’d fix the leaks, and refill the system with actual R12. The 134 conversion kits don’t seem to be manufactured correctly these days.
I had a 93 Honda Civic with a R12 AC system that lost its gas. Paid to have it converted to R134a and found it hopeless. I then took a punt, bought the equipment and filled it with air duster. It was incredible. My face would often freeze. I miss that car. Sold it in 2020.
Used the jaycar servisol air duster because it's already r134a. Used it on an old rebuilt volvo 134a system, injected some pag oil in with it. Used it on bar fridges, portable kings, waeco and trailblaza fridges. Works for a year or 2 until the leaks come back. Instead of piercing cans I made up a dodgy nozzle adapter using nozzles from the nozzles that come with lighter fluid from bunnings. Only used a vacuum on the rebuilt car. With fridges I had to use a supco bullet piercing valve on the low pressure line of the fridges to create a service port but didn't need to use a vacuum. You risk contaminating the lines with air that way but hey, it worked.
@@arconiluka with fridges you can cut off the sealed fill line, flair it and add a shrader valve already on a short copper tube. I have these lying around and they are cheap to buy online. Core is to be removed before brazing on.
I'm running it on an 07 BT50. It's better than r134a if your condenser is small and doesn't perform in hot weather or you don't like the feel of the power loss of R134a when fully charged in hot weather. Although R134a has more kick, you pay for it with the power required to drive the compressor. How I charged it is place the system under a typical load, ie on a hot day, put car in sun, at idle, roll windows up and wait for the cabin to cool off. Charge until the TX valve is satisfied, ie the suction line temp is more or less the same as the suction pressure or in other words the superheat is 10 degrees or less.
Also due to it's higher thermal conductivity than r134a it will perform better in tube and fin heat exchanger systems.
I've also modified the evaporator temperature sensor amp circuit to allow adjustment of the evaporator temperature. I don't know how the vent temperatures compare to R134a since I just adjust the set point to how I like. With R134a I set the set point to sub zero and when the vehicle is in motion it makes breathing uncomfortable like you are in a walk in freezer.
The first time round I charged by weight by using the ratio of molecular weight between r152a and r134a and multiplying by the factory charge spec. Turned out to be slightly undercharged in my case.
By the way, I have recently replaced the R15 fan resistor but the first speed never kicks on with the AC on and it's been pretty hot these days here in Portugal, so I would expect it to turn on. The resistor is fine as far as I can tell, at least it measures the correct 0.2 Ohm resistance value.
will need to study the wiring diagram and check the relevant relays / switches etc. You can find it by searching for W124 ETM. It is free, no need to pay for it. If someone asks for money, keep searching.
Wow, wonderful timing, just when I was about to do some research on refilling the R12 system on my W124 which is currently performing very poorly...
Did this on my Hilux Surf a few years ago (WD40 branded air duster uses the same gas BTW). It would freeze the evaporator over when the blower fan speed was set too low with a high humidity, so I'd say it was effective.
That's car now has R134A in it as I did an engine swap and had to have new hoses made anyway. Those can taps are as sketchy as they look, had mine crack after a few goes, if people plan to do this, just be careful when puncturing the can. I've since switched to HyChill for my other cars as the taps for those are much less sketch, you can pretty confident the gas is clean and it has similar benefits to R152A in that you need much less of it (by weight) than R134A.
Did you evacuate the 134a first before adding the hychill?
@@arconiluka yes, in the cases where there was still gas in the system. Most of the time when I'm using HyChill, I'm starting from a system with no gas left in it, and I always pull a vacuum and charge by weight anyway.
works better on r12 systems, currently running it in my 190e
I might use this to check an R12 system for leaks. And. then I’d fix the leaks, and refill the system with actual R12.
The 134 conversion kits don’t seem to be manufactured correctly these days.