@@RWoodOutdoors I ended up buy a cheap one at Wal-Mart. It seemed to work. 30 watts seems to be more than enough. However I think a broader tip would have made things go faster. I used strips from a Tide container. It definitely seems more structurally sound. I am not sure it is 100% water tight so I put a layer of Flex Seal tape over the repaired areas.
Nice video. I'm a machinist at a company that makes plastic fasteners using just about any plastic you can think of. Including HDPE. Iv made several repairs on plastic items mad with HDPE. My source of repair material is plastic milk jugs, plastic windshield jugs... you get the idea. Might as well use something that you already have. I also had to repair a hole I drilled in my Lifetime Teton. The material I used was one of the discs that were not removed at the factory when the kayak was made and the scupper holes were formed. I've got 4 from my Teton and 3 from my Tamarack Pro. Talk about color matching...lol Happy kayaking!
I did a similar repair and then filled the kayak up with water to see if it held water from the inside. It didn't, so I'm going to try bonding the two plastics together better and also using wire mesh.
Lol sorry but that was not a good repair at all. I'm not trying g to hate but we both know you still have that crack in that kayak. Now it's just bigger
That was a very informational video and it's very helpful. However I found that my milk jug is made out of HDPE so I won't even have to go to the store and buy that $1 mixing jug look at the bottom of your milk jugs thanks for the video
Can you use this method to repair a long crack just below the cockpit cowling on an ABS plastic kayak if you have some of the material from which it was made?
It's held up pretty good! Had to rework it once, the soldering does take a little practice to get the base plastic to melt right. It is in a high stress area. Good suggestion to drill a small hole at each end!
I am a little concerned about your method. The plastic of your kayak is already hardened, and soul You're Expecting the melted plastic from the cup to stick to it. I am not an expert so it may work just fine. But part of my thinking is that it would be better if both Plastics war in the melted stage when they come together. just an initial thought. It would be good if you could give us a report after using the kayak a while
If you enjoyed this video, check out my instructional video on how to build a kayak rack.
ruclips.net/video/0YuJxyeTwlg/видео.html
What was the total cost of repair?
would you recommend a 30 watt or 60 watt soldering iron?
@@darla1920 I'd guess about a buck for the buck and $20 for the soldering iron.
@@theman4884 this was just an inexpensive soldering iron. I'm sure more power wouldn't hurt though.
@@RWoodOutdoors I ended up buy a cheap one at Wal-Mart. It seemed to work. 30 watts seems to be more than enough. However I think a broader tip would have made things go faster. I used strips from a Tide container. It definitely seems more structurally sound. I am not sure it is 100% water tight so I put a layer of Flex Seal tape over the repaired areas.
Nice video. I'm a machinist at a company that makes plastic fasteners using just about any plastic you can think of. Including HDPE. Iv made several repairs on plastic items mad with HDPE. My source of repair material is plastic milk jugs, plastic windshield jugs... you get the idea. Might as well use something that you already have. I also had to repair a hole I drilled in my Lifetime Teton. The material I used was one of the discs that were not removed at the factory when the kayak was made and the scupper holes were formed. I've got 4 from my Teton and 3 from my Tamarack Pro. Talk about color matching...lol
Happy kayaking!
I would suggest drilling holes at the ends of the crack to stop it from spreading
Yes - stop drilling is a requirement for plastic crack repair. the crack WILL continue without stop drilling at both ends.
How big should u drill?
@@miamiwax5504 just bigger than the crack is wide. 1/4" or so should be plenty
@@mattlh113089 good to know!
I did a similar repair and then filled the kayak up with water to see if it held water from the inside. It didn't, so I'm going to try bonding the two plastics together better and also using wire mesh.
You won't know how good the repair is until you put the boat through the stress of being used.
Lol sorry but that was not a good repair at all. I'm not trying g to hate but we both know you still have that crack in that kayak. Now it's just bigger
That's great. I will save all symbol 2 plastic. Remember the three Rs . Recycle Reuse Reduce
Thank you! I'm going to go out and buy some cracked kayaks, fix em up and save $1000!
It would help to clamp a heat gun blowing toward the area of the repair. It will warm the plastic making the repair process easier.
Do you recommend to make a whole on each side of the crack to do not let the crack be larger?
I did not do that here, but that technique is often recommended if you think the crack might grow.
Since you used a mixing cup to repair you kayak, can you use your kayak to mix a drink ?
Don't see why not!
Bro that did not fix that crack.
That was a very informational video and it's very helpful. However I found that my milk jug is made out of HDPE so I won't even have to go to the store and buy that $1 mixing jug look at the bottom of your milk jugs thanks for the video
Nice tutorial. I hope I won't ever have to do this, but it could happen.
How'd you get the crack to begin with did you use the kayak cart that goes through the scupper-holes which is always a no no !
Can you use this method to repair a long crack just below the cockpit cowling on an ABS plastic kayak if you have some of the material from which it was made?
Nice repair and tutorial!
Thanks bud!
I don't know about anybody else but I could tell a botched repair was done.
HOw did it hold up over time? I'm wondering if drilling an 1/8 inch hole at each end of the crack will be best.
It's held up pretty good! Had to rework it once, the soldering does take a little practice to get the base plastic to melt right. It is in a high stress area. Good suggestion to drill a small hole at each end!
Thanks man
scraps of PEX tubing is the same material
Aren't they using HDPP instead?
I am a little concerned about your method. The plastic of your kayak is already hardened, and soul You're Expecting the melted plastic from the cup to stick to it. I am not an expert so it may work just fine. But part of my thinking is that it would be better if both Plastics war in the melted stage when they come together. just an initial thought. It would be good if you could give us a report after using the kayak a while
Yes, you need to make sure both the plastic from the filler and the original plastic on the kayak melts and flows together.
That's just a tiny hairline crack
My malibu is cracking in half!