I made that stupid mistake at first: thinking you should always end your session completely DEAD so I would campus or do some fingerboarding. One finger injury later, I've gotten wiser, lol.
On the one hand, I wholeheartedly agree that training technique beats fingerboarding by miles for a relative beginner like myself. On the other hand, as difficulty increases, routesetters tend to use both smaller/crimpier holds and more technical routes simultaneously. Lacking the strength to properly grab the holds makes training technique much more of a drag, as you'll have to jump through extra hoops on routes that really don't call for the technique. With limited gym time, having a fingerboard at home certainly speeds up the process.
This is particularly a problem at gyms that show difficulty by hold color. All the yellows will be jugs, all the greens will be interesting jugs, the blues start with slopers and crimps, and all the teals will be tiny or frictionless, etc. Climbing at a chain that does it that way really made me appreciate that the tagging of climbs with labels instead means that there can be V1s with weird, hard hands and bomber feet and things like that. I'd previously taken it for granted!
OMG... I did adjust my lifestyle in so many ways already... I think I'm going towards "obsessive". Limited only by my 9-5 job, surrounding people, love for food etc. Btw Rhos - it does not sound sad, it sounds amazing to work and life your favorite activitiy!
I enjoyed this one, cheers! Btw Tom you mentioned some years ago that 'a professional climber is one that has made a living out of climbing' and I quite like that definition. Otherwise it'd be too vague anyway, like at what grade cutoff are you calling someone a professional?
As a beginner, I could tire out all muscles in a bouldersession, while getting better at moving I noticed that certain musclegroups would not get tired anymore from bouldering alone. Also, in the begining, trying a problem multiple times I would at one point do it, whereas later on it was often clear that missing power was the problem.
I guess how do you do the endurance training for climbing? I find that I’m never winding or tired in the sense of like cardio but my arm muscles and shoulders will definitely tell me like it’s time to start slowing down dude.
that's the thing though, cardio climbing is almost not a thing, it's all about increasing the treshold after which you can't hold holds anymore (forearms endurance) or can't make big move (power endurance) You will never get your heartrate to 180 while climbing while it's easy to do while swimming. The limiting factors are not the same ones.
23:00 you can still cook and climb on weekends! 😡 Of course you won't be cooking lasagna for 5 or 6 hours, but I often cook a 30min to 1h dinner and enjoy it with my friends after a crag session.
@@shivs254 I’m in the process of doing so… although both times it happened after a long period of no real exercise (lockdown 🙄) and I wasn’t patient enough. Having stronger knees can never be a bad thing though
The problem with "pro" is peoples thoughts on its meaning. Being a pro means your a "professional" which by definition in any sport or field is "any person engaged in a specified activity as one's main paid occupation". Lets not change the definition to gatekeep people out in fear of you loosing your "pro" title
I think this idea that climbers shouldn't emulate pros comes from a good place, in that you are trying to keep people safe and working within their means, but overall I think there is a big difference between copying pro climber routines, and copying the principles that they use to devise their training plans. Principles such as progressive overload, specificity of application, periodicity and more are useful to any athlete, regardless of training age, as these principles guide towards right practice both in terms of getting stronger/better but also in terms of longevity and safety. I hope that people realize that while copying Adam Ondra's campus routine of old might not be the best idea, looking into how he progressed from point A to point B is very instructional and can be incorporated by any climber, as long as they scale that principle to their own abilities.
It is a slang term. Used in different ways in different contexts. In climbing, you can punt off of a route - which is another way to say you fell. So a “punter” would be someone who falls a lot. Realistically you could consider all pro climbers “punters”, because they all spend a lot more time falling then sending.
pushing PAST the point of feeling week is, definitionally, how you get stronger. in layman's terms, when you work out while you feel weak, you're getting your body used to holding more weight for longer. For example, in a set of 10 pullups, the pullups that you do easily don't make you stronger. But the last couple reps that are slower and harder, those are the ones that condition your body to being able to hit that 10th pullup without any struggle. TLDR: the exercise that you do while you feel weak or tired will provide that greatest gains in strength.
@@shivs254 i think you mean MUSCULAR hypertrophy. Just because you learned one word from PE doesnt mean you actually know how muscles work. The muscle has to tear and rebuild for muscular hypertrophy to happen. With a bicep curl, for example, you contract your bicep and brachialis, and as you lower the weight, those muscle fibers tear, and protein comes in and fills in those tears to rebuild the muscle stronger. If you want mr to go into more detail like a fkn biology teacher, i will. But o REALLY think you should just research something before you just jump in randomly and say "nah, you're dumb and wrong."
If you want to know about pro climber lifestyle, read Jerry Moffatts book. Until you’ve spent a month sleeping and living in the cave with the roof you’re working, you’ve not adopted the climbing lifestyle😂
I'm in the same boat. I'm not a native english speaker and I dont know what "punting" or "being a punter" means. I tried to google it, but the results dont seem to fit with how they're using it.
@@nub0rn Yeah, I found a video that says it means falling on a climb but who knows. Hope someone actually explains it instead of being a dingus like the guy that replied to me up there haha
@@MidWestMTB I found the same video and in the comments someone said its actually falling after successfully doing the crux, not on the crux. But its not very applicable in this video ^^;
I feel like I've heard the word punter my whole life (it's not specific to climbing) but I'd struggle to tell you exactly what it means. Pub owners also call their customers punters, don't they? Maybe it just means "normal people"?
These videos are too long and rambling, a concise edit would be useful. I appreciate some prefer long form conversations but I find myself zoning out due to the lack of structure, direction and the repetition of topics/answer. A more systematic approach to these topics would be more viewer friendly and probably result in your subscriber count climbing.
Legend says that 50% of a lattice employee's day is sitting on that couch drinking tea.
I still remember the first drop knee I ever did, because it was such a lightbulb moment
I made that stupid mistake at first: thinking you should always end your session completely DEAD so I would campus or do some fingerboarding.
One finger injury later, I've gotten wiser, lol.
On the one hand, I wholeheartedly agree that training technique beats fingerboarding by miles for a relative beginner like myself. On the other hand, as difficulty increases, routesetters tend to use both smaller/crimpier holds and more technical routes simultaneously. Lacking the strength to properly grab the holds makes training technique much more of a drag, as you'll have to jump through extra hoops on routes that really don't call for the technique. With limited gym time, having a fingerboard at home certainly speeds up the process.
This is particularly a problem at gyms that show difficulty by hold color. All the yellows will be jugs, all the greens will be interesting jugs, the blues start with slopers and crimps, and all the teals will be tiny or frictionless, etc. Climbing at a chain that does it that way really made me appreciate that the tagging of climbs with labels instead means that there can be V1s with weird, hard hands and bomber feet and things like that. I'd previously taken it for granted!
@@Tokahfang Aye, exactly. You just described every gym I've visited out here.
OMG... I did adjust my lifestyle in so many ways already... I think I'm going towards "obsessive". Limited only by my 9-5 job, surrounding people, love for food etc.
Btw Rhos - it does not sound sad, it sounds amazing to work and life your favorite activitiy!
I ❤️ my dog - uniting the punters and pros!
I enjoyed this one, cheers!
Btw Tom you mentioned some years ago that 'a professional climber is one that has made a living out of climbing' and I quite like that definition. Otherwise it'd be too vague anyway, like at what grade cutoff are you calling someone a professional?
I believe that that is the definition. A professional is someone who has a profession, a profession being a paid occupation.
Pleasant and informative!
As a beginner, I could tire out all muscles in a bouldersession, while getting better at moving I noticed that certain musclegroups would not get tired anymore from bouldering alone. Also, in the begining, trying a problem multiple times I would at one point do it, whereas later on it was often clear that missing power was the problem.
So much easier to get a bit more flexible than a bit stronger 😂 personal struggles and differences are bewildering sometimes
You guys are great love the videos!!!
“Books on mind game”, would love a couple of recommendations as it’s an area I really struggle with….
Rock warrior’s way is what you want !
i don't think i've ever used the campus or fingerboard for more than benchmarking
I guess how do you do the endurance training for climbing? I find that I’m never winding or tired in the sense of like cardio but my arm muscles and shoulders will definitely tell me like it’s time to start slowing down dude.
that's the thing though, cardio climbing is almost not a thing, it's all about increasing the treshold after which you can't hold holds anymore (forearms endurance) or can't make big move (power endurance)
You will never get your heartrate to 180 while climbing while it's easy to do while swimming. The limiting factors are not the same ones.
23:00 you can still cook and climb on weekends! 😡
Of course you won't be cooking lasagna for 5 or 6 hours, but I often cook a 30min to 1h dinner and enjoy it with my friends after a crag session.
After 2 kneecap dislocations I can tell you drop knees are risky business and I vow to become so excessively strong as to never need them again...
sounds like you need to strengthen your knees (no disrespect intended)
@@shivs254 I’m in the process of doing so… although both times it happened after a long period of no real exercise (lockdown 🙄) and I wasn’t patient enough. Having stronger knees can never be a bad thing though
@@bushyfpv8036 Fair play! Good luck with the process, it sounds rough!
@@shivs254 cheers man!
The problem with "pro" is peoples thoughts on its meaning. Being a pro means your a "professional" which by definition in any sport or field is "any person engaged in a specified activity as one's main paid occupation". Lets not change the definition to gatekeep people out in fear of you loosing your "pro" title
I started feeling personally attacked around 27-28 minutes as I slowly realised i'm doing these things too...
Never heard of punters before
I wish I were able to climb full time without a 9-5 job, sadly I'm not good enough at climbing that I can afford climbing full time without a 9-5 job.
I think this idea that climbers shouldn't emulate pros comes from a good place, in that you are trying to keep people safe and working within their means, but overall I think there is a big difference between copying pro climber routines, and copying the principles that they use to devise their training plans. Principles such as progressive overload, specificity of application, periodicity and more are useful to any athlete, regardless of training age, as these principles guide towards right practice both in terms of getting stronger/better but also in terms of longevity and safety. I hope that people realize that while copying Adam Ondra's campus routine of old might not be the best idea, looking into how he progressed from point A to point B is very instructional and can be incorporated by any climber, as long as they scale that principle to their own abilities.
Really though.. what's a punter? Not sure how I missed this
It is a slang term. Used in different ways in different contexts. In climbing, you can punt off of a route - which is another way to say you fell. So a “punter” would be someone who falls a lot. Realistically you could consider all pro climbers “punters”, because they all spend a lot more time falling then sending.
it's more often used to refer to a beginner/newbie/gumbie, than someone who falls a lot
pushing PAST the point of feeling week is, definitionally, how you get stronger. in layman's terms, when you work out while you feel weak, you're getting your body used to holding more weight for longer. For example, in a set of 10 pullups, the pullups that you do easily don't make you stronger. But the last couple reps that are slower and harder, those are the ones that condition your body to being able to hit that 10th pullup without any struggle.
TLDR: the exercise that you do while you feel weak or tired will provide that greatest gains in strength.
that is completely not how hypertrophy works. if anything it's how endurance works
@@shivs254 i think you mean MUSCULAR hypertrophy. Just because you learned one word from PE doesnt mean you actually know how muscles work. The muscle has to tear and rebuild for muscular hypertrophy to happen. With a bicep curl, for example, you contract your bicep and brachialis, and as you lower the weight, those muscle fibers tear, and protein comes in and fills in those tears to rebuild the muscle stronger. If you want mr to go into more detail like a fkn biology teacher, i will. But o REALLY think you should just research something before you just jump in randomly and say "nah, you're dumb and wrong."
If you want to know about pro climber lifestyle, read Jerry Moffatts book. Until you’ve spent a month sleeping and living in the cave with the roof you’re working, you’ve not adopted the climbing lifestyle😂
What the hell is a punter? British slang is years ahead of the US...
@@derekcraig3617 I don't climb, I just got recommended this video from youtubes algorithm. No need to be a kook bud
I'm in the same boat. I'm not a native english speaker and I dont know what "punting" or "being a punter" means. I tried to google it, but the results dont seem to fit with how they're using it.
@@nub0rn Yeah, I found a video that says it means falling on a climb but who knows. Hope someone actually explains it instead of being a dingus like the guy that replied to me up there haha
@@MidWestMTB I found the same video and in the comments someone said its actually falling after successfully doing the crux, not on the crux. But its not very applicable in this video ^^;
I feel like I've heard the word punter my whole life (it's not specific to climbing) but I'd struggle to tell you exactly what it means. Pub owners also call their customers punters, don't they? Maybe it just means "normal people"?
performance enhancing drugs??
These videos are too long and rambling, a concise edit would be useful. I appreciate some prefer long form conversations but I find myself zoning out due to the lack of structure, direction and the repetition of topics/answer. A more systematic approach to these topics would be more viewer friendly and probably result in your subscriber count climbing.