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How to change a compensator in a 96" twin cam Harley
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2022
- In this video I show a step by step how to on swapping out your OEM Harley compensator to a Screaming Eagle Harley compensator. The OEM 96" twin cam compensator was a carry-over part from earlier models and was notorious for failure on the bigger 96" motor. The symptoms my bike displayed were a very loud "Gravel" sound in my primary around 1800-2200 RPM as well as difficulty shifting in 1st gear.
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I've replaced many compensators and I never had to remove the clutch or inner primary.. The one I did today took less then 90 minutes.
I replaced my compensator last week , there is definatley no need whatsoever to remove the clutch hub and the inner primariy so why did he do it.. Zip tie the chain tensioner down , remove it . Then remove the compensator.. Job done ... Why did he remove all the rest ???
Just watched the video and it’s a good DIY tutorial but the primary takes a T-27 the 25 will work but you’ll likely strip any fasteners that are corroded or over torqued I’ve got a 2006 Dyna Street Bob with the 88 so I’m not 100% sure about the 96 but the way I understand it is that the 2006 model year twin cam 88 Dynas were basically just a 96 with a shorter stroke that was the first year of the 6 speed transmission as well as the automatic primary chain adjuster and hydraulic cam chain tensioners and HD basically used that Dyna 88 and changed the crank to a longer stroke and possibly larger cylinder bore added the 6 speed for the 96 across the board starting in 07 I believe either way I learned that the hard way 90% of the multi piece kits don’t come with T-27’s so naturally after I got my new to me Dyna this summer with no service records or any kind of history I decided to check out a few things including primary oil level the T-25 I had was a hair loose but getting ready for a trip to a family bbq late on a Sunday afternoon and a 45 min. Round trip to the nearest Canadian Tire I just went with it and all was well the oils looked great there were 250 miles on the bike from the trip home and 40K Miles on the bike I expected to see dark if not black oil but it was still clear I had assumed the seller had did the oil change b4 posting it for sale but after 3.5 hours on the highway in heavy fog trying to get home b4 midnight I had figured if it was fresh oil that it would show up by the time I got home to my surprise it’s still clear after 1000miles not KMs so although there’s a couple of little gremlins I need to deal with and some more looking around to get an idea of what has been done to it etc. there’s been at least 4 owners b4 me and it’s an American bike that was imported to Canada it was a killer deal regardless but when I was torquing up the derby cover to the spec I think it’s like 88 inch pounds but don’t quote me I split the difference min/max spec and torqued to the halfway point between them and that’s when I stripped one of the fasteners to the point where after getting a T-27 for the second time I had the cover off with the proper size driver the head was just too damaged and I was almost unable to properly torque it down so the next time I take it off I have to replace it …. The good news is that a lot of the smaller 10 or more Torx bit sets that include a T-27 also include a T-45 which is also not commonly included in the large 2-300 piece kits and is the pinch bolt size for the fork tubes among other things mastercraft has a 9 piece set for 29$ @ your local CT meanwhile they want 9.99$ for a single 3/8 drive T-27 for any Canadian DIYers new to HD twin-cams struggling to find the right bit in their 300 piece mastercraft socket sets and constantly stripping or damaging the heads on their HD fasteners
Damn you make it look pretty easy
I didn’t even know this was a common problem until today. Just bought my first 96 engine this afternoon. Thank you for the video. When mine starts to go I feel I will be able to handle it now
Great walk through man! Really appreciate you making this video!
I replaced mine last spring but without removing the inner primary case. Also you didn't show gluing in the oil deflector to the outer primary cover.
A 7 inch long PC of flatbar works great for locking sproket and iv never had to remove clutch components
Do you recommend replacing the Stater while your in there? How often do those go out?
Excellent. Thank you for making and sharing this!
very helpful video! thank you
Absolutely! Thanks man and if you are doing it and have any questions dont be afraid to reach out
Glad that its not nessesary to loosen starterbolts its a problem to handle the oiltank on softails@@darthscorp5156
I was told a bad battery will kill a compensator quickly?? I would guess it's true but don't know actually if there is truth behind it.
Thanks for the helpful video. My M8 fxlr's compensator sprocket was broken at 40K Km and I don't know why it was broken. I was usually using engine braking and didn't have any hard riding all the time. Can you give me an answer for me?
Very helpful video thanks. What was the sign that you needed to change it? I see that's the SE upgrade isn't it? My bike has some trouble restarting when hot like it's 'slipping'. I'm going to open it up to inspect but will likely get the SE version. Thanks
Sounded like gravel rolling around in my primary when I was letting my clutch out.
Thanks for the video, i own a stock 96 '' and now at 50,000 miles i'm starting to hear some noise in the primary. Do you torque the SE compensator the same way as the OEM compensator in the service manual or do the new SE compensator come with new instruction ?
I appreciate it! I did it for a school project so maybe I will get some extra creditbecause someone found it useful haha I don't remember where I saw the specs. Im pretty sure it was on the instructions but if you go to do it post another comment and ill send you whatever info you need!
They recommend Not to use the stair block,get a manual when doing this job!
What compensator did you replace the stock one?
Thanks man! This was a great refresher
Where's the oil Slinger? Most dealerships will glue it on for 15 bucks, special glue !
I think this is the onder model compensaror. Sinds 2014 model it is oil feeded and yo7 have to glue the plastic disposer inside the primary.
Check out the Darkhorse compensator. It's far superior to the stock hd crap and the se also. Put this on my ultra and it's far quieter and also serviceable unless the throwaway hd and se garbage.
I heard its double the price ? About 700 dollar ?
I can buy a entire engine for the cost of this repairs 120 a hour is what i was charged. For simple work my bike needed oil and filter 4000 grand not even oil or filter 3 months to put a tank liner and fuel pump ..paint the primary cover that sucks its like brillo pad paint cant wash it clean it 800 dollars..
Som say you need to loose the starter bolts , push it back and then take out the inner primery. On my softail it would be a hell of a job.
Bu I see now its totally unnessery to pull back the starter.