Disaster Strikes, Goodbye Custom Paint Job....
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This week has been brutal. My cars paint artist had to be rushed to a hospital in Panama city due to a life threatening abcess that had to have emergency surgery. Then on the day he's feeling good enough to put in some work, it storms for 2 days. We finally get back to work only to find out he has to ship out the next day to serve in the Coast Guard. So he tries to get my hood done so I have a little something cool to show off. Disaster Strikes, my car is now soooo smooth from the white gloss paint, that the fancy artist paint won't stick to it. Now my car looks like hot garbage until he gets back in 6 WEEKS!? UUUUUGGHHHHHH!
It's probably a chemical reaction. The paints may not be compatible. The gloss shouldn't make a difference. The way to test that is to scuff the gloss and then try it.
We tried to scuff it down and it worked a lot better. We simply ran out of time to test further.
Which rustoleum gloss was used? Montana is nc acrylic and a lot of rustoleum is lacquer, not acrylic enamel. Unless it's stated on the front of the can (usually the automotive grade ones are acrylic enamel) They can all be mixed except you cannot spray acrylic, oil, enamel, OVER a lacquer as it will react with the solvents and melt it like what happened here. Essentially created graffiti remover. Either incompatible bases or didn't follow coating instructions properly, you have to cover within an hour or wait a couple days before adding another coat as it is still gassing off and drying and solvents will penetrate and wake the base back up. Same goes for scuffing a surface, need to wait after cutting any paint open for a day or 2, or can have issues exactly like this with solvent creeping under a layer and waking it back up. Only way to prevent this with artwork is using a 2k clear over your base before adding artwork over it. Protects the base from any reactions and if you mess the artwork up you can wipe it off with solvent and start over without having to sand and redo your base.
Spraying over a gloss finish that is FULLY CURED wouldn't cause a reaction, only delamination/adhesion issues down the road which this doesn't look like. Technically it is the artists fault lol cause you should know/test your paints before working on a job. It happens we all do it, it's just paint can be sanded off and redone. Learn from mistakes and don't make it a habit of mixing paint brands, especially untested and not knowing what chemical bases you are using. A lot of brands even mix things into their paints to make them compatible with their system but not with others. Duplicolor is a great example of this. It literally contains soybean oil. All their products do so they are compatible, but try to mix with something else and its going to react bad with the soybean oil. Some degreasers I've seen this as well (prep-all is horrible) It's like dealing with fisheye in automotive spray applications. It's a contamination of some sort and you add "fisheye" eliminator to make it "compatible". It's often just an oil/silicone to add a contamination so it all works together. I always used a drop of transmission fluid back in the day. 30+ years automotive and custom painting.
Rustoleum Turbo can white
@@CarsAndCoffeeKings ahh well there you go, that stuff is oil based, can't spray acrylic over it (montana) but can go the other way around lol. Rustoleum in general is just a bad product imo, not in of itself but in application, its intended to cover and stop rust, not be used for art/graffiti. Different chemical makeup to make it stick to crap surfaces and reason why that stuff says do not sand before recoating, solvent melt city.
Clear your art work with a high quality automotive 2k clear once dried sand it with 1000grit and do whatever you have to and clear it again