I tig welded some scope holes up on a pre war Winchester model - 70 a few years ago , I cleaned the holes out with a drill to remove the old threads , and cleaned the holes with acid tone , then cleaned a pice of copper pipe and put it inside the action , I let the argon run a few seconds into the holes then went in and out as fast as possible, covered the action up with a heat blanket to cool slow , filed it down and bead blasted the whole action to make it match , and reblue .
Always clean the part to be welded, even if it is just Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner which will dissolve any oils and blast any debris out.. Secondly never use a grinder, that is hand work for a file. And finally for steel you would always use DC positive for the penetration and generally better manners and result, unless there is a reason DC- is specified. It was fun to watch, have a great additional year (or more)in HoNjoe's quarrantine...
Great job spinesales! I appreciate you doing this...as I am a beginner "TIG welder", just recently purchased a new Miller machine to add many more services in my gun shop. I saw (& heard) some very helpful tips here...thanks!
@d94joncas Yes there is a concern about messing up the heat treatment. This is only a .22 so there isnt much pressure. This is not an acceptable technique for any caliber larger than a .22
Thanks... Very helpful... Well done. I'm refurbishing an 1892 Colt Double Action... originally almost a relic... But, just for fun I thought I'd go through and get it at least functional, if not fire-able. And in all these small parts, which are rare to find, it appears their function surfaces are worn or rounded... So on really fine part edges... would you say that one could take one of those small worn edges or say, tiny tab... and build up that small surface... grind it to form and then use the revolver? Or would the metal crumble under the forces...? Thanks again...
Really hard for me to say without actually seeing it. But it sounds like an oldie but a goodie. Not sure if Id trust it to go bang but getting it back to functional would be fun and probably very satisfying
Thank you so much for making this video. I may have to do this for some holes that were drilled and tapped off center on my Remington 870. Would this method allow one to drill and tap over the same area if needed?
What about welding on a shotgun barrel? I'd like to move the screw that attaches the barrel to the magazine tube so that I can run a hunting length barrel on my Mossberg 500 Persuader. It looks like it might be brazed in place and I don't have any idea if I would be risking screwing up the heat treating (if they even have any) by cutting it off and relocating it further out.
Turn your main amperage up and learn to use the foot pedal. Striking up on that part so many times at low amps puts a ton of heat into the part and increases the size of your heat-affected-zone, and that's generally unfavorable on gun parts. ~120 amps, pedal all the way down to get a puddle formed, feed some filler and start to back off the pedal to keep the puddle from sinking too deep, fill your crater and back off the pedal.
What filler rod did you use? I have to have some hole plugged in an old mauser action, then have it re heat treated. Also, might I suggest that you rest your right hand on something while welding.
Great vid Mate very informative. Love the sound of that TIG makes me feel like I'm still at work. LOL One thing though and don't think I'm being picky why not drill the threads out before you TIG makes it a lot ezyer to clean the holes out, just a thought.......
Ok, I know this is 7 years ago, but a few comments. Others mention drilling out the treads, good idea, but a least acetone w. q-tips might do the job. Most old bolt action 22s are made of mild steel, so mild steel filler rods are ok, even coat hanger wire is good. I doubt there’s significant heat treating going on as the real lockup iis
..fumbled my reply. The place to be careful is on the rear right side of the receiver where the bolt locks. Also, glad you didn’t fill the holes on the flat- at least 3 of those are for a 82a aperture sight which is kind of a rarity. Where I put on my meanie face is the use of the angle grinder. Yikes! Unless you very skilled, you are putting wavy divots on that cylindrical surface which will show up when refinished. The way the pro’s do this is with files used at right angles to the receiver and then with hard backed sandpaper of progressively finer grades. Those Model 69 Winchesters are treasures; please learn your technique on junked-out scrap firearms.
I tig welded some scope holes up on a pre war Winchester model - 70 a few years ago , I cleaned the holes out with a drill to remove the old threads , and cleaned the holes with acid tone , then cleaned a pice of copper pipe and put it inside the action , I let the argon run a few seconds into the holes then went in and out as fast as possible, covered the action up with a heat blanket to cool slow , filed it down and bead blasted the whole action to make it match , and reblue .
Always clean the part to be welded, even if it is just Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner which will dissolve any oils and blast any debris out..
Secondly never use a grinder, that is hand work for a file.
And finally for steel you would always use DC positive for the penetration and generally better manners and result, unless there is a reason DC- is specified.
It was fun to watch, have a great additional year (or more)in HoNjoe's quarrantine...
Great job spinesales! I appreciate you doing this...as I am a beginner "TIG welder", just recently purchased a new Miller machine to add many more services in my gun shop. I saw (& heard) some very helpful tips here...thanks!
There's always crud in threads, you should drill it out.
Or stick the plastic tube on a spray can of brake cleaner or starting fluid down the hole.
@d94joncas Yes there is a concern about messing up the heat treatment. This is only a .22 so there isnt much pressure. This is not an acceptable technique for any caliber larger than a .22
Thanks... Very helpful... Well done.
I'm refurbishing an 1892 Colt Double Action... originally almost a relic... But, just for fun I thought I'd go through and get it at least functional, if not fire-able. And in all these small parts, which are rare to find, it appears their function surfaces are worn or rounded...
So on really fine part edges... would you say that one could take one of those small worn edges or say, tiny tab... and build up that small surface... grind it to form and then use the revolver? Or would the metal crumble under the forces...?
Thanks again...
Really hard for me to say without actually seeing it. But it sounds like an oldie but a goodie. Not sure if Id trust it to go bang but getting it back to functional would be fun and probably very satisfying
@@spinesales Thank you, kindly...!
May God Bless...
@RemMan700 Thanks RemMan. yeah it should be pretty sweet. I did take some before pictures so Ill post them with the final video.
Thank you so much for making this video. I may have to do this for some holes that were drilled and tapped off center on my Remington 870. Would this method allow one to drill and tap over the same area if needed?
Very nice job. That is definatly one way of doing. This should be a great 22 when done...
What about welding on a shotgun barrel? I'd like to move the screw that attaches the barrel to the magazine tube so that I can run a hunting length barrel on my Mossberg 500 Persuader. It looks like it might be brazed in place and I don't have any idea if I would be risking screwing up the heat treating (if they even have any) by cutting it off and relocating it further out.
Turn your main amperage up and learn to use the foot pedal. Striking up on that part so many times at low amps puts a ton of heat into the part and increases the size of your heat-affected-zone, and that's generally unfavorable on gun parts. ~120 amps, pedal all the way down to get a puddle formed, feed some filler and start to back off the pedal to keep the puddle from sinking too deep, fill your crater and back off the pedal.
Good job! I can't wait to see the end product.
What filler rod did you use? I have to have some hole plugged in an old mauser action, then have it re heat treated. Also, might I suggest that you rest your right hand on something while welding.
Is there a way I could contact you privately?
I enjoy these videos your making.
Sure. Join this forum. www.hobby-machinist.com/
Message me there. My handle on there is Arcstar*
What about stress relief after you welded those holes up? Heat treat?
Could you T.I.G. weld a bayonet on a rifle barrel if it's done right and professionally.
Great vid Mate very informative. Love the sound of that TIG makes me feel like I'm still at work. LOL
One thing though and don't think I'm being picky why not drill the threads out before you TIG makes it a lot ezyer to clean the holes out, just a thought.......
which addition rod did you use?
@camerl2009 Yes they did.
@forestdavegump Thank you brother
No problemo man. Just remember I wouldent reccomend doing this to anything bigger than a .22lr or .22short.
Was this filmed with a Potato?
😆 hilarious. Yeah it might as well have been. Sony handycam. Burned right to a disc 😆
very well done looks good
@MrMat4570 Yeah thats a great idea. Thats what I should have done.
@mxf7010g8k Thank you
great job!
Absolutely! - TY!
Ok, I know this is 7 years ago, but a few comments. Others mention drilling out the treads, good idea, but a least acetone w. q-tips might do the job. Most old bolt action 22s are made of mild steel, so mild steel filler rods are ok, even coat hanger wire is good. I doubt there’s significant heat treating going on as the real lockup iis
..fumbled my reply. The place to be careful is on the rear right side of the receiver where the bolt locks. Also, glad you didn’t fill the holes on the flat- at least 3 of those are for a 82a aperture sight which is kind of a rarity. Where I put on my meanie face is the use of the angle grinder. Yikes! Unless you very skilled, you are putting wavy divots on that cylindrical surface which will show up when refinished. The way the pro’s do this is with files used at right angles to the receiver and then with hard backed sandpaper of progressively finer grades. Those Model 69 Winchesters are treasures; please learn your technique on junked-out scrap firearms.
When your blackberry went of i was running around my house looking for mine thinking i had got a message
wow someone did a job trying to tap it lol
@tbone007princess Hahahahah. That is too funny.
Improper technique., way too much heat.