Sugestion for the bondo, if you use a scraper dont press too hard and try to scrape it clean. Basically that pushes into the gaps and you'll end up having to do 2 coats. Fill the gap but leave the bondo raised slightly and then sand it down to where you want it. It's more of a build it up then remove what you don't want kind of product.
Body filler shrinks as it dries, so trying to be "too precise" with the application can result in having to do it over again. I've found it best to kind have a heavier hand with application since it has to be sanded no matter what. That being said, both helmets ( just as everything in your vids) came out awesome. 🤍🖤
Your work is awesome, I don't have the patience for FDM anymore so I print everything in resin. I only do figures (statues) and some laser rifles for display mostly, and LS hilts. As for the bondo work have you ever tried fiberglass resin, it takes some time to learn but the finish is amazing if you can get it really smooth. I seen someone do a trooper helmet with fiberglass cloth which is a really tough process but once you become an expert at that technique the results are crazy.
Your foot sander idea has been a mainstay in my upgraded Iron Man suit build. I chose to add a 2-inch cushioned hook ‘n loop system to the end to increase surface area, sanding disk options, and reduce time for disk replacement. Did lose one of two foot sanders over several months. Seems wise to limit excessive heat build up during long duration use by swapping between several sanders.
Real cool project absolutely love it, not to say I was disappointed but I definitely was hoping you would print out a trooper helmet then break it, and kinsugi it yourself but this is still really cool
Loving all of your videos? One thing I can highly recommend is US Chemicals Icing body filler. It is a finishing filler and is SO much better than Bondo brand. It sands super easy and has a much finer “grain”.
So cool! How did you make the template for the resin printed eye lens mold? Any particular technique or did you just print the eye section of the helmet and a "bump" for the curvature?
I cut down the helmet model so that I was just left with the area around the eye, transformed a sphere model until I got something that looked to have the right curvature, and then booleaned the two pieces so that the sphere had the exact shape as the helmet eye opening. For printing I decreased the size of the eye/lens part to accommodate the thickness of the visor plastic.
Thank you! Not really. I occasionally do limited runs of certain props and have a few things up on my Etsy shop, but I’m working on having some more options for things available depending on what people are interested in. Like more raw print kits, files, etc.
From my brief research into the stormtrooper armour, it seems like the night troopers are most similar to the Rogue One style armour kits, so technically you should be able to just add the cracks to any RO printable armour.
Try Evercoat brand body filler products. Much better than Bondo. Their Rage Gold is the general stuff and they have Easy Sand which is good for skim coat or finer details. Both are very easy to sand and produce smooth results. Love your work!
I don’t really have a ratio, and I’m always recycling various extra ABS from support material, brims, etc. which can vary a lot in density. I really don’t go overboard with it. If you add too much ABS into the acetone it won’t really set or dry on the pieces you apply it to and you’ll just have a gloopy mess to deal with. It really just one of those things that you have to experiment with to get a feel for what works best.
Fanatic video. Great looking helmets and wonderful design and detail. Do you have a shop to purchase your raw prints from? I look forward to your next video.
It’s the second slide on this Instagram post: instagram.com/p/C3A2KbRODJA/?igsh=ODdleTJod3luazI1 Or the full version here: x.com/tyandthatguy/status/1759971178008207595?s=46&t=RbHTAnIRXl0EunrQxSRoZw
Replacement welding visors are what I typically use. You can also get clear ones and install various colours of headlight tint vinyl on them if you need a more unusual colour.
It’s ABS slurry which is just some ABS (recycled support material) dissolved into acetone. The acetone on its own will “melt” and smooth out the surface of the ABS/ASA prints, but the additional ABS in the mixture helps to fill in some of those layer lines.
I don’t have a lot of wall space in my studio so mine typically end up on a shelf with or without a stand. I’ve always wanted to print and build some of these display mounts though: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5822695
The gold leaf is more specific to these helmets for authenticity purposes (although it definitely could give a great effect on any prop). Typically I go with chrome and recolour with alcohol ink for gold, but it depends on the finish of the “metal” that you’re going for.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks for the response! I’m just struggling to find a gold paint that doesn’t look either dull or glittery. More of a smooth real gold look
Quick question, I've never 3D printed before but I always figured the print lines could be covered up with a base coat of spray paint, is this a gross misunderstanding of the process? Or would that essentially work?
I wouldn’t say it’s a gross misunderstanding, normal spray paint typically isn’t thick enough to fill in the layer lines. That’s where filler primer comes in which is essentially thick spray paint. It can depend a bit on your printer/settings and how clean the prints look straight off of the machine, but I wouldn’t imagine you’d be getting smooth surfaces with just normal spray paint.
When you split the helmet you didn’t generate connectors. Is there a particular reason why you didn’t or you just don’t need them to help with alignment?
No, they were just something I concocted myself using the helmet file. I plane cut the helmet until I just had the area around the eye and modelled a lens piece. I can upload the lens file I made for anyone who’s interested in using it, but the plane cutting of the original file you’d have to do yourself.
@@Trance87 here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1BkeN8-QXYNu4PwMWwwDUPmaG4QFW1GSc/view?usp=share_link Just mirror it to get the mold for the second eye.
It’s methyl ethyl ketone. Works similarly to acetone as a solvent for ABS so it technically can get used like glue because it will dissolve and bond parts together. It’s actually what typically gets used on giant LEGO models and displays to adhere the bricks together.
I absolutely love your technique for making the lenses.
Love how you did the gold leafing instead of just painting the gold 💯
You made an Enoch helmet for "that guy?" That's awesome! Looked like he was really happy with it! Beautiful piece, that one.
Haha, yes. The crazy power of the internet and making these build videos.
excuse my ignorance, who is that guy?
@@ebaymagotWes Chatham. Played Enoch in Ahsoka, but is otherwise known as Amos ‘That Guy’ Burton in The Expanse
@@joshwagstaff13 gotcha thanks!
@@MMsPropShopWes! Awesome💚🇬🇧🌱
Always look forward to notifications from this channel
That is so beautiful. That green glow is an awesome touch.
Sugestion for the bondo, if you use a scraper dont press too hard and try to scrape it clean. Basically that pushes into the gaps and you'll end up having to do 2 coats. Fill the gap but leave the bondo raised slightly and then sand it down to where you want it. It's more of a build it up then remove what you don't want kind of product.
Totally amazing, in build and finish! I just bought the QIDI 4 Plus. Still on the learning curve.
Both these helmets look stunning. Another project of yours i am going to have to copy haha :)
Bravo!!! They turned out excellent!!!
Thank you!
Keep up the great work. A solid skill-set & a brave mind-set towards making. Very cool stuff! Respect & all the best!
Body filler shrinks as it dries, so trying to be "too precise" with the application can result in having to do it over again. I've found it best to kind have a heavier hand with application since it has to be sanded no matter what. That being said, both helmets ( just as everything in your vids) came out awesome. 🤍🖤
Those came out really well.
Wow, very impressed with these.
Great work.
Thanks for sharing your build and paint process. I've learned so much from you. Sweet helmets!
Thanks for making the process super easy to understand
Absolutely beautiful pieces. 💯 percent master class.
I recommend Wall Spackle for the big seams. It dries pretty fast most of the time and is thick enough to fill the seams in fairly quickly.
Your work is awesome, I don't have the patience for FDM anymore so I print everything in resin. I only do figures (statues) and some laser rifles for display mostly, and LS hilts. As for the bondo work have you ever tried fiberglass resin, it takes some time to learn but the finish is amazing if you can get it really smooth. I seen someone do a trooper helmet with fiberglass cloth which is a really tough process but once you become an expert at that technique the results are crazy.
Great tutorial and end result. I just subbed and now tempted to buy a 3d printer again. I used to have a K1 Max, but it kept jamming so I sold it.
Quite impressive! Very impressive work, indeed!
Lots of really useful tips, thanks for sharing !
Your foot sander idea has been a mainstay in my upgraded Iron Man suit build. I chose to add a 2-inch cushioned hook ‘n loop system to the end to increase surface area, sanding disk options, and reduce time for disk replacement. Did lose one of two foot sanders over several months. Seems wise to limit excessive heat build up during long duration use by swapping between several sanders.
Great video! I could never bring myself to work on two helmets at the same time.
"The dark side of the Force is a pathway to many abilities some consider to be unnatural." -Palpatine
Absolute awesome work
You need to burnish the gold leaf… use cotton balls and just lightly rub over it until it’s shiny. Then you can varnish it. Nice builds.
Real cool project absolutely love it, not to say I was disappointed but I definitely was hoping you would print out a trooper helmet then break it, and kinsugi it yourself but this is still really cool
Awesome video. Can you add a link in the description for the LED diffusing foam? Thanks!
wow great job, looks cool
holy shit!!! looks incredible
I use the foot sander everywhere now!
Loving all of your videos?
One thing I can highly recommend is US Chemicals Icing body filler. It is a finishing filler and is SO much better than Bondo brand. It sands super easy and has a much finer “grain”.
I’ll definitely have to try to track some down, thanks!
FYI search for “USC icing”. “USC 26006 Icing” will get you the 24 oz tube.
So cool! How did you make the template for the resin printed eye lens mold? Any particular technique or did you just print the eye section of the helmet and a "bump" for the curvature?
I cut down the helmet model so that I was just left with the area around the eye, transformed a sphere model until I got something that looked to have the right curvature, and then booleaned the two pieces so that the sphere had the exact shape as the helmet eye opening. For printing I decreased the size of the eye/lens part to accommodate the thickness of the visor plastic.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks so much!
GREAT Great Video as always! I wanted to ask you, do you have a store where you selling merchandise?
Thank you!
Not really. I occasionally do limited runs of certain props and have a few things up on my Etsy shop, but I’m working on having some more options for things available depending on what people are interested in. Like more raw print kits, files, etc.
@@MMsPropShop could I get the name of your Etsy Store?
@winchestersingerharvelle83 here you go: thearmorersforge.etsy.com
The black band on the Stormtrooper helmet at around the 11:00 mark is often referred to as 'the unibrow.'
Project blackwing stormtrooper with blood handprint basically zombie storm trooper. From starwars galaxies and the books.
6:55 finally found a fellow re6ce fan ✌🏼
Another awesome project! Do you happen to know where to be there files for the resin eye molds?
Hey There…as usually your attention to detail is spectacular.How about creating the body, are there any files available?
From my brief research into the stormtrooper armour, it seems like the night troopers are most similar to the Rogue One style armour kits, so technically you should be able to just add the cracks to any RO printable armour.
Hi, I love your work. I was just wondering what brand abs you like to use ?
Most of the time it’s Polymaker in various colours, but I’ve also had good luck with Creality, Overture and Bambu Lab ABS
Try Evercoat brand body filler products. Much better than Bondo. Their Rage Gold is the general stuff and they have Easy Sand which is good for skim coat or finer details. Both are very easy to sand and produce smooth results. Love your work!
Oh and mix it on a sheet of glass. Then you can just clean it off and the spreaders with lacquer thinner.
Have you tried using an amber tool for smoothing out the leaf.
how much acetone to abs in that slurry? Great work as always
I don’t really have a ratio, and I’m always recycling various extra ABS from support material, brims, etc. which can vary a lot in density. I really don’t go overboard with it. If you add too much ABS into the acetone it won’t really set or dry on the pieces you apply it to and you’ll just have a gloopy mess to deal with. It really just one of those things that you have to experiment with to get a feel for what works best.
Fanatic video. Great looking helmets and wonderful design and detail. Do you have a shop to purchase your raw prints from? I look forward to your next video.
Thanks! Raw print kits are something I’m working on. My email is always open if you’re interested in something: info@studioofmm.com
Is there a link to the video of Wes with your helmet? Would love to see his reaction!
It’s the second slide on this Instagram post: instagram.com/p/C3A2KbRODJA/?igsh=ODdleTJod3luazI1
Or the full version here: x.com/tyandthatguy/status/1759971178008207595?s=46&t=RbHTAnIRXl0EunrQxSRoZw
Missed your face today...💚🇬🇧🌱
Awesome helmets! What do you use to make the eye visor? I have a Tank Trooper helmet and the black visor broke, thanks.
Replacement welding visors are what I typically use. You can also get clear ones and install various colours of headlight tint vinyl on them if you need a more unusual colour.
Awesome! Thank you so much!!!!
No...not jealous....not jealous at all, no honestly.....no.....ok I am...I want to be able to do what you do 😂
@MMsPropShop what is the clear mixture you are putting on your helmets to cover the layer lines?
It’s ABS slurry which is just some ABS (recycled support material) dissolved into acetone. The acetone on its own will “melt” and smooth out the surface of the ABS/ASA prints, but the additional ABS in the mixture helps to fill in some of those layer lines.
Instead of the body filler try using a wood filler. much easier to spread and sand.
What do you do for helmet display? Is there a wall mount you like?
I don’t have a lot of wall space in my studio so mine typically end up on a shelf with or without a stand. I’ve always wanted to print and build some of these display mounts though: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5822695
I am working on a set of Helldivers armor that has gold sections, some small, some bigger. Would you recommend gold leaf over any kind of gold paint?
The gold leaf is more specific to these helmets for authenticity purposes (although it definitely could give a great effect on any prop). Typically I go with chrome and recolour with alcohol ink for gold, but it depends on the finish of the “metal” that you’re going for.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks for the response! I’m just struggling to find a gold paint that doesn’t look either dull or glittery. More of a smooth real gold look
The Vallejo Liquid Metal paint in gold might be worth checking out
were did you get that Varnish can? ^^
Quick question, I've never 3D printed before but I always figured the print lines could be covered up with a base coat of spray paint, is this a gross misunderstanding of the process? Or would that essentially work?
I wouldn’t say it’s a gross misunderstanding, normal spray paint typically isn’t thick enough to fill in the layer lines. That’s where filler primer comes in which is essentially thick spray paint. It can depend a bit on your printer/settings and how clean the prints look straight off of the machine, but I wouldn’t imagine you’d be getting smooth surfaces with just normal spray paint.
The upper brim is called „eyebrow“.
When you split the helmet you didn’t generate connectors. Is there a particular reason why you didn’t or you just don’t need them to help with alignment?
I just couldn’t be bothered, haha! If I’d had to split them into more than 2 pieces then I probably would have/it would have been a good idea to.
amazing
Cool
What’s the ratio of the slurry you make
Are the visor molds included in the files?
No, they were just something I concocted myself using the helmet file. I plane cut the helmet until I just had the area around the eye and modelled a lens piece. I can upload the lens file I made for anyone who’s interested in using it, but the plane cutting of the original file you’d have to do yourself.
@@MMsPropShop Please Fantastic work and Thank you👍
@@Trance87 here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1BkeN8-QXYNu4PwMWwwDUPmaG4QFW1GSc/view?usp=share_link
Just mirror it to get the mold for the second eye.
@@MMsPropShop That's Great Thank you and keep up the great work it's very much appreciated 👍
What is MEK? Is that like a glue? Im a 3D print NOOB.
It’s methyl ethyl ketone. Works similarly to acetone as a solvent for ABS so it technically can get used like glue because it will dissolve and bond parts together. It’s actually what typically gets used on giant LEGO models and displays to adhere the bricks together.
I think you're a bit late... great build though!