Congratulations, you can be proud of that pass given the huge amounts of rust the easy option would have been to break it. You didn’t, you let it live for another day!
Watching from the USA! I'm originally from the "rust belt" north east part of the country. Seeing you fix all that rust brings back old memories! LOL You did a solid job with all the welding and reinforcing the old suspension points. Never remove the old brackets because you will NEVER get the old position back. Again...great work!!!
Thanks hahaha yea I think if I had cut them off then I probably wouldn't have got the axle back in the right place 😂next project just arrived and its amazing 👌
Thanks Mike really appreciate it! It's was a lot of work I'm still not 100% happy with it, think I might replace the rear axel and put new back brakes on it 👍 next project just arrived and its amazing 👌
@@cashmachinecars That really depends on the car. They can't do much or say anything. Depends on vary mods too. Even if you have the same FN2 side by side. One of the reasons that a replacement ECU can't be done too. Or else I would have done that instantly ;)
@@cashmachinecars Hopefully Dyno Daze can chip in with better info, but this is what I've gleaned (it might be wrong). Stock FN2s are around 205-210bhp (so a little bit more than the 200bhp that Honda say). Remapping a standard car is a waste of time IMO, you get like 5hp (mid-range) and 2hp peak on the basic Hondata Group N map (though perhaps quite a bit better with a custom map?). It's the perils of not being turbocharged! 😂 With a long-tube exhaust manifold people can get around +15hp (perhaps +20hp with a better quality one like a Toda from Japan), and maybe another 5-10hp from an intake, and perhaps 5hp or so from a full exhaust (15 hp even if it's a 3" exhaust, but 3" exhausts are really loud!). For a typical FN2 that's tuned with an exhaust manifold on it, an intake and an exhaust, they'd probably be around 230-240bhp or so? Then you get into the (more) expensive, less cost-effective mods like the RRC intake manifold, drop-in cams, bigger throttle body etc each with a 5-10bhp potential gain if they are optimised. People go to the non-balance shaft oil pump from the Japanese Type Rs (or EP3s) too, to gain a couple of hp and to be able to use the various baffled sumps too. With these things for a very optimised car with a stock bottom end you can get towards 245-250bhp. With swapping in a stock K24 (Accord) bottom end with the K20 head you can get towards 265-275bhp or so I think (a little more with the K24/K20 combo than with a full K24 engine, as the K20 head, and especially the FN2/FD2 K20 head flows a bit better than the K24 one). Then, of course, skies the limits with rods, high-comp pistons, huge cams with uprated valve springs, and so on... 300+ bhp NA builds are possible, but it gets real expensive! 🙂
Excellent video mate and loving the music that u made.. honestly you should patent/get some sort of legal thing going on with that music its really good
That FN2 what you have there, is a GT+(/PLUS) RACE version. Comes with that SatNav and at steering wheel the BT buttons (optional). I have the same one as yours, but a younger one. Could you check for me, if you have in the left glove-box an extra backup DVD for the SatNav in there? My DVD disk broke and would love one. Great video and happy you keep it. They are lovely!
@@cashmachinecars Oh yes, I have that now. Does the DVD eject for you and check for any cratches? Mine doesn't even come out anymore. I do have a spare DVD unit for it, but read that it could be blocked by (again) a code. Not sure to bother with taking out the dashboard.
Did the rust and corrosion not show up as advisories on previous mot history? That is a shocking amount of rust for mark 8 Civic. I nearly brought a 2006 Celica that looked mint, I did a quick mot check though and it had corrosion as advisorys all under it for last few years, though it was structurally sound, It would have needed doing at some point. So I got another Mark 8 Civic in the end which I am so happy with after my Type S actuator/clutch went on the automatic shift transmission. I still have it because I can't bear to scrap it as it only has 64,000 on clock.
You paid 2300....cookies? Dong? Good idea to mention if its pounds, dollar, ausdie dollar, cad dollar 😊 Regardless of currency (i guess uk pound.or Euro) great value
Fuck yeah man, this is what I want to see. I have a fn2 myself that has the EXACT SAME FKN ISSUE. Not as much rust, but slowly catching up to how this was. Needing to get attacking her soon. Gotta buy some tools first tho, always hurdles huh
You really should have replaced that rear axle. They rot from inside out. For the sake of a £200 part that’s shocking covering it in paint and sticking back on
Congratulations, you can be proud of that pass given the huge amounts of rust the easy option would have been to break it. You didn’t, you let it live for another day!
Thank you 👍 haha yes it lives on for a little longer 🤣 not sure how long yet..
Considering they were built in the UK Honda really failed in rust proofing the Gen8, the rear axle especially.
Can’t believe you managed to fix that!! Well done
Thank you 🙏😊
Excellant work - if the MOT man says it roadworthy then its road worthy. You havent hidden anything and they are independant.
Never seen an FN2 as bad as this but fair play for the work involved. Subbed!
Thanks 👍 I couldn't believe it when I looked underneath it 🤦
Cannot believe how rusty this is for a “modern” car nice one for saving it buddy 👍
Thank you👍
My goodness that rust is insane. Makes me feel much better about mine. Enjoying your videos sir.
Watching from the USA! I'm originally from the "rust belt" north east part of the country. Seeing you fix all that rust brings back old memories! LOL You did a solid job with all the welding and reinforcing the old suspension points. Never remove the old brackets because you will NEVER get the old position back. Again...great work!!!
Thanks hahaha yea I think if I had cut them off then I probably wouldn't have got the axle back in the right place 😂next project just arrived and its amazing 👌
So weird that the outer sheet metal never rusted out. Great result
Everyone loves a vtec. Great to see a new video.
Thanks Chris! Stay tuned for the next one! It's gonna be a good one 👌
Music sound like an intro for a streets tune! Like it tho😊
i have been looking forward to this vid, you have worked really hard well done.
Thanks Mike really appreciate it! It's was a lot of work I'm still not 100% happy with it, think I might replace the rear axel and put new back brakes on it 👍 next project just arrived and its amazing 👌
good job 👍
Thanks 👍
I was looking forward to this episode!
Let’s map it!
Tune it up boys! :)
Hahaha yes!!! How much to map them what's the most you can get out of it?
@@cashmachinecars come follow our channel man all on there :)
@@cashmachinecars That really depends on the car. They can't do much or say anything. Depends on vary mods too. Even if you have the same FN2 side by side. One of the reasons that a replacement ECU can't be done too. Or else I would have done that instantly ;)
@@cashmachinecars Hopefully Dyno Daze can chip in with better info, but this is what I've gleaned (it might be wrong).
Stock FN2s are around 205-210bhp (so a little bit more than the 200bhp that Honda say). Remapping a standard car is a waste of time IMO, you get like 5hp (mid-range) and 2hp peak on the basic Hondata Group N map (though perhaps quite a bit better with a custom map?). It's the perils of not being turbocharged! 😂
With a long-tube exhaust manifold people can get around +15hp (perhaps +20hp with a better quality one like a Toda from Japan), and maybe another 5-10hp from an intake, and perhaps 5hp or so from a full exhaust (15 hp even if it's a 3" exhaust, but 3" exhausts are really loud!). For a typical FN2 that's tuned with an exhaust manifold on it, an intake and an exhaust, they'd probably be around 230-240bhp or so?
Then you get into the (more) expensive, less cost-effective mods like the RRC intake manifold, drop-in cams, bigger throttle body etc each with a 5-10bhp potential gain if they are optimised. People go to the non-balance shaft oil pump from the Japanese Type Rs (or EP3s) too, to gain a couple of hp and to be able to use the various baffled sumps too. With these things for a very optimised car with a stock bottom end you can get towards 245-250bhp.
With swapping in a stock K24 (Accord) bottom end with the K20 head you can get towards 265-275bhp or so I think (a little more with the K24/K20 combo than with a full K24 engine, as the K20 head, and especially the FN2/FD2 K20 head flows a bit better than the K24 one).
Then, of course, skies the limits with rods, high-comp pistons, huge cams with uprated valve springs, and so on... 300+ bhp NA builds are possible, but it gets real expensive! 🙂
Top job and a great video. Thank you
Thanks 👍
great job well done. nice to see you back on yootoobs .)
Thank you 👍 the next video is going to be 🔥👌
Excellent video mate and loving the music that u made.. honestly you should patent/get some sort of legal thing going on with that music its really good
That FN2 what you have there, is a GT+(/PLUS) RACE version. Comes with that SatNav and at steering wheel the BT buttons (optional). I have the same one as yours, but a younger one.
Could you check for me, if you have in the left glove-box an extra backup DVD for the SatNav in there? My DVD disk broke and would love one. Great video and happy you keep it. They are lovely!
Oh really thanks I didn't know that!! My dvd is also broken it constantly says disc read error?
@@cashmachinecars Oh yes, I have that now. Does the DVD eject for you and check for any cratches? Mine doesn't even come out anymore. I do have a spare DVD unit for it, but read that it could be blocked by (again) a code. Not sure to bother with taking out the dashboard.
@@cashmachinecars Yeah, the unit might be broken. I have an ISO for you to burn and to try if you want?
Oo yes please do you want my email? Have you managed to fix yours then? Mine came on briefly the other day but only lasted about 10 minutes 😂
@@cashmachinecars I have hope for you and get it sorted. Plus we need more videos from you haha
Bloody jesus crazy to see how much rust on under neath for a modern car least its saved
Did the rust and corrosion not show up as advisories on previous mot history? That is a shocking amount of rust for mark 8 Civic. I nearly brought a 2006 Celica that looked mint, I did a quick mot check though and it had corrosion as advisorys all under it for last few years, though it was structurally sound, It would have needed doing at some point. So I got another Mark 8 Civic in the end which I am so happy with after my Type S actuator/clutch went on the automatic shift transmission. I still have it because I can't bear to scrap it as it only has 64,000 on clock.
I can't remember but I don't think so must have had a few Dodgy MOT's I reckon. Nice 👍 oo I bet that was quite pricey to fix 😬
brillant channel,ive just sub to you
Thank you really appreciate it 🙏
Good Stuff will hold up well regardless… MOT man can only poke stuff they cannot remove anything.
Lets just hope they don't pole too hard next year 😂
Must have been the boot leak issue but never fixed ,done well ,I know where to come now 😂😂😂
Elinize sağlık, TR de olsa hurdalığa gitmişti şimdiden.
You paid 2300....cookies? Dong?
Good idea to mention if its pounds, dollar, ausdie dollar, cad dollar 😊
Regardless of currency (i guess uk pound.or Euro) great value
Hahaha tbh if I had seen it beforehand I wouldn't have even given any cookies for it! 🤣
Fuck yeah man, this is what I want to see. I have a fn2 myself that has the EXACT SAME FKN ISSUE. Not as much rust, but slowly catching up to how this was. Needing to get attacking her soon. Gotta buy some tools first tho, always hurdles huh
Great cars!!! Yea you should get on top of it before it gets a chance to get as bad as mine was!! Thanks man 👍
You really should have replaced that rear axle. They rot from inside out. For the sake of a £200 part that’s shocking covering it in paint and sticking back on