Got an FN2 CTR, it's barebone stock, had the gearbox reworked, because the gears and syncros were dead. And while the gearbox was out, I fitted an LSD. It's THE mod to have on the car. That way you can push the car like crazy, because that way you can just stay on the throttle all the time. And then with relatively easy mods, TDI North drop in cams, FD2 oil pump and RRC intake manifold, ECU tune. You can extract around 220 to 240hp out of it. That's all it takes to make a completely insane car. If you were thinking of getting it, get it, it was the things I could've done. FN2 is the last NA Type-R, and if that's what you want, just a pure, screaming four banger, go for it.
@@19keverick91 Usually around 1200€ for the drop in cams alone. But you will need all sorts of other complementary upgrades for the cams to fill their potential. Intake and exhaust manifolds. Each manifold ranging from 500€ to 1000€ No idea how much costs the new oil pump lately. And a good ECU tune at the end would be around 500€? But never ask your engine for more power if it's got some mileage under it's belt, first it should be taken and have it undergo general repairs. So the internals are in top notch shape once you ask them for more power = more stress. Overall, it is quite expensive. It's only for those who enjoy getting more power from NA engines and better yet, if they can afford it :D
@@SasaDraskovic Depends, is it burning oil? If it's burning oil, then pretty much complete general repair. Sleeves, pistons, crankshaft(?). Check Camshaft for lobe damage. At this point I'd say a repair like this or keep it before you do it. Right now it will run well. It will still work, when you take it apart without replacing almost everything, once you take it apart, it won't fit the same when it's put back and it will make everything worse. If it's not burning oil and doesn't have any serious issues developed, I'd suggest not touching it. Unless you really want to do something with it. Then just whole rebuild. Cost might be around 10 000 dollars or something, but at that point the engine will last another 250 000 km. Maybe even more, as any maintenance can be done by you and proper. Just make sure the chasis is in good shape too ^^
I have a completely standard fn2 tyre r. I totally get the whole thing about - 'it should have came from factory with a little more power' BUT have no doubt it's not put in the shade by its predecessor, perhaps not as much fun factor as EP3, but just as quick. and regardless the K20 z4 is the still that same great engine same Honda pedigree. And if you want to mod? What better platform. But as standard from factory love it. I mean it's obvious Honda put more attention into modernizing the interior with the fn2....I'd take that tbh, as modding the engine is so easy. But living long term as a daily it's great Honda gave a splash of practicality and lush interior. I mean it sits among new cars without looking dated, Honda fn2 was ahead of its time with styling. Honda still provided a great platform.
It's a bit of a shame that Honda didn't put a little bit more into the FN2, they really are a cracking car especially if you have the later version with the L.S.D. jdm 4TH, 5TH and 6TH Gears, lighter flywheel, AD08 RS Tyres, PBS Pads all round, K+N panel filter, front and rear rigid collars, Meister coil overs and a nice set up from Grinspeed along with uprated rear axle bushes, 15mm font and rear hub centric spacers and your getting there.
FD2 & FN2 gear and diff ratios are exactly the same? You mean using DC5 4-5-6 gears? They'll be shorter because originally the final drive ratio was taller on the DC5 compared to the FD2 & FN2. The OE flywheel is only 5kg already (it's the same as the FD2 flywheel), I don't think you'll get a big benefit by going to the aftermarket Exedy/Toda 4kg flywheel (it's the same flywheel as the OEM lightweight FN2/FD2 flywheel, just with more holes in it as far as I can tell!).
Why they didn't give it the K20A from the FD2 is still a mistery...with that and some brembos and it would have been amazing from the box. Great video, btw!
@@javali6027 Driving my FD7 trough german autobahns and else on the limit since 1 1/2 years...in fast corners it does make a difference, the rear is just gliding trough :D I know 140 HP ain´t much, but it still rocks and it´s a rarety in germany, only the hybrid was available here, hope I can realize my K20Z4 swap asap
@@sovan781 Torsion bar is because the 8th gen Civic hatch is (half) a Honda Jazz, that's pretty fundamental to the car and floor pan compared to other 8th gen Civics! "Why they didn't give it the K20A from the FD2 is still a mistery" Emissions, no 100 RON fuel in the UK, reducing cost to build etc. At least it got the newer parts like the RSP cylinder head & FD2 gear ratios & lightweight flywheel which the 8th gen Civic Si in North America did not get (the Civic Si still had the older cylinder head that flows less, the old gear ratios, the old heavier flywheel; it has the same non-Brembo brakes too). [Of course the Si has independent rear suspension if that's important to you, but conversely less interior space with the seats folded down compared to the Honda Jazz platform which is incredibly spacious.] The oil pump with balance shafts is bespoke to slightly increase refinement to suit the FN2's position of being targeted more to middle-aged buyers (as well as the RSP intake manifold with longer runners for more torque, and even the interior being a more discreet maroon compared to bright red in the JDM car). Not to say the FN2 Type R won over *every* prospective middle-aged Mk5 Golf GTI buyer, but certainly it may have won over *more* than the EP3 could have (and more GTI buyers than the FD2 Type R with rock hard suspension, no sound insulation, no cruise control, and a bright red interior could have)?
The weird thing is, the stig from top gear at the this came out actually loved the car. People tend to think what Clarkson says it's the law, but many times he has been proven wrong on his judgements, notably when he crapped on the Veyron as it was announced and doing a full 180 after driving it. But everything is influenced by a opinion online nowadays, and people take it at face value, unfortunately.
Great car - I'm contemplating the Skunk2 Drop-in Cams and Balance shaft delete for my beauty - already spent nearly 3k on mods and bits and would be another 1.7k for those. It's so tempting!!!
💯 as soon as the breather mods are done completely different car and awesome to drive I’m glad I gave it a chance the engine noise is definitely the best bit last of the na screaming vtec .
You kept mentioning the dc5 cams...thats not the gain its the oil pump balance shaft delete from the fd2. The dc5 cams only maoe around 3hp more than oem cams. If youre upgrading the cams even off the shelf drip in cams can give 10hp
great video mate,would agree i with tegiwas 4,2,1,- invida q300 exhaust-j35 throttle body with a tegiwa airbox and a dyno tune gave me 222hp.if they had just done these simple mods would of been enough to make clarkson smile.you know top gear magizine that year the stig called it top hatch of the year!
@@lexzenis2544 I don't think the RSP manifold is that bad. The Spoon FN2 still had the RSP manifold on it. There's less top-end potential but more mid-range potential with the RSP than the RRC manifold I believe, especially on K24 engines that could potentially benefit from the RSP's longer runners in the mid-range rpm band. If you referring to the plot by Kowalski, the RRC gained 10hp over RSP above 7500rpm (and therefore 10hp peak as well) *BUT* it lost 10hp at 6000rpm and lost 5hp at 5000rpm while the two were pretty much the same everywhere else up to 7500rpm, so it's not completely a free lunch in favour of the RRC -- the RSP comes with longer runners for a reason after all. By all means, gaining 10hp from 7000rpm to 8600rpm is good, but it's nowhere near as clear cut of an improvement as gaining 10hp all the way from 5000rpm to 8600rpm as your comment seems to imply the RRP does (indeed you *lose* some from 4600-6600rpm instead, while 6600-7000rpm is pretty much no difference)! It's not like the car's ratios are so close you can avoid dropping below 7000rpm, after all. The advantage too of the RSP is that is "free" as it comes with the car, so you could always port it or shorten the runners. I think the RSP could be a particularly good manifold for K24s IMO, but it's not common in North America so that hasn't been explored that much.
@@TassieLorenzo great info there , appreciate that... perhaps the tuning is the all important net of the power. Ive been watching dynodaze tuners in UK. They have had tremendous success at getting HP increases from 4200rpm all the way to redline which was why i made my statement . there are no trade offs. just gains . pls see the dynograph results at the end of these three vids from them with the addition to different k20 Fn2s starting with...... (search in youtube ) You need to See these Results! My own FN2 Gets RRC inlet manifold. ( graph at 10:47) LISTEN TO THIS! Honda Civic Ep3 TypeR Tuned after RRC inlet Manifold ( graph at 6:05) Honda Civic Fn2 TypeR New Chain RRC Inlet Manifold and Map with Ecutek (graph at 9:14)
@@TassieLorenzo great info there , appreciate that... perhaps the tuning is the all important net of the power. Ive been watching dynodaze tuners in UK. They have had tremendous success at getting HP increases from 4200rpm all the way to redline which was why i made my statement . pls see the dynograph results at the end of these three vids from them with the addition to different k20 Fn2s starting with...... search in youtube ) You need to See these Results! My own FN2 Gets RRC inlet manifold. ( graph at 10:47) LISTEN TO THIS! Honda Civic Ep3 TypeR Tuned after RRC inlet Manifold ( graph at 6.05) Honda Civic Fn2 TypeR New Chain RRC Inlet Manifold and Map with Ecutek (graph at 9.14)
i sold my late 59 plate last year, 39k om the clock, fsh, i had a tegiwa 421, tegiwa carbon intake, and a milltek cat back and she made 226bhp, and 176ftlbs when mapped at performance tek in glasgow. it was sooooo different over stock, vtec much sooner, and as makes no difference a 9k rev limit, wow!!! this is how the fn2 should have come as stock, as much as i was (and am a fn2) fan boy, honda kind of shot themselves in the foot on this one.
Forget that it says 'Type R' and consider it a 'Type S' model. It's not a track car. It has some sound insulation where the FD2 & DC5 have no sound insulation, it has cruise control, et cetera et cetera. Hopefully that makes it make more sense. It was positioned as more of a Golf GTI rival to try to sell to middle-aged buyers and it was pretty successful at that, not to mention setting the tone for more modern Type Rs like the FK2 and FL5 that merged the English and Japanese product lines and retain the "luxury" amenities to this day. [The LSD version of the FN2 is certainly much better at power down, but it's not like the European-spec EP3 had an LSD as standard either. That was about keeping the price/cost down.] Here in Australia we had a detuned DC5 Integra Type R, which was a Integra Type S/RSX Type S engine, suspension and brakes, but with LSD gearbox and Type R exterior and Type R interior (the part numbers for all the exterior and interior bits are exactly the same as JDM Type R so does that make it a "real" Type R? but the parts numbers for the mechanical bits are mostly the same as RSX Type S, so does that make it not a "real" Type R?). "Type R" is Honda's brand they can do what they like in terms of mixing and matching parts I guess. 🙂 For the complaints, many of the parts like the front seats (apart from the colour), the engine block, head, crank, conrods, timing system (apart from the cams, pistons, oil pump & sump), shifter/gearbox/LSD/flywheel/clutch etc etc, are exactly the same between FD2 and FN2 after all.
@@TassieLorenzowith some mods you can achieve mugen20 performance and more than that. Without lsd it isnt type R, and rear sway oem is 0 mm. It transforms handling. For me Fn2 is cheap platform to make fd2 tracktimes if modded properly(4+pot brakes, big rotors, suspension, sways, lsd, breathing and engine mods). Mugen version had better track times than standard fd2 type R. For me it is enough.
@@SasaDraskovic That's all true! The FN2 is still a very good platform! Once you do FD2 oil pump and aftermarket drop-in cams (and all the other stuff intake/headers), the only difference at all in the engine is the compression of the pistons by 0.7 points which is not a big deal. 🙂 The chassis, as you imply, is more than capable -- it was raced by JAS as a rallycar and by Team Dynamics as a Super 2000 touring car.
Unique FN2 artwork is now available on my poster store, Carbonsoulz: bit.ly/3LzERZi
hello,
If we assume that the car originally weighs a ton, how much weight do you think you gained by removing what you removed? Thank you
If they gave it another 20bhp it would make all the difference it's not like they had to develop a new engine they already had the dc5
Got an FN2 CTR, it's barebone stock, had the gearbox reworked, because the gears and syncros were dead.
And while the gearbox was out, I fitted an LSD. It's THE mod to have on the car.
That way you can push the car like crazy, because that way you can just stay on the throttle all the time.
And then with relatively easy mods, TDI North drop in cams, FD2 oil pump and RRC intake manifold, ECU tune. You can extract around 220 to 240hp out of it.
That's all it takes to make a completely insane car. If you were thinking of getting it, get it, it was the things I could've done. FN2 is the last NA Type-R, and if that's what you want, just a pure, screaming four banger, go for it.
truth
How much for the TDI upgrades?
@@19keverick91 Usually around 1200€ for the drop in cams alone. But you will need all sorts of other complementary upgrades for the cams to fill their potential. Intake and exhaust manifolds. Each manifold ranging from 500€ to 1000€
No idea how much costs the new oil pump lately. And a good ECU tune at the end would be around 500€?
But never ask your engine for more power if it's got some mileage under it's belt, first it should be taken and have it undergo general repairs. So the internals are in top notch shape once you ask them for more power = more stress.
Overall, it is quite expensive. It's only for those who enjoy getting more power from NA engines and better yet, if they can afford it :D
@@smokeguru4107 k20 with 220.000km, your opinion, what should be rebuild/engine refreshment before upgrades?
@@SasaDraskovic Depends, is it burning oil?
If it's burning oil, then pretty much complete general repair. Sleeves, pistons, crankshaft(?). Check Camshaft for lobe damage. At this point I'd say a repair like this or keep it before you do it.
Right now it will run well. It will still work, when you take it apart without replacing almost everything, once you take it apart, it won't fit the same when it's put back and it will make everything worse.
If it's not burning oil and doesn't have any serious issues developed, I'd suggest not touching it.
Unless you really want to do something with it. Then just whole rebuild. Cost might be around 10 000 dollars or something, but at that point the engine will last another 250 000 km. Maybe even more, as any maintenance can be done by you and proper.
Just make sure the chasis is in good shape too ^^
No car is perfect. I've driven and FN2 for 13 years with no interest of taking it on track. Still looks modern today especially the dash instruments.
Me too bro! I love my FN2. Last mohicane 😏
I’m thinking of getting one.
I have a completely standard fn2 tyre r. I totally get the whole thing about - 'it should have came from factory with a little more power' BUT have no doubt it's not put in the shade by its predecessor, perhaps not as much fun factor as EP3, but just as quick. and regardless the K20 z4 is the still that same great engine same Honda pedigree. And if you want to mod? What better platform. But as standard from factory love it. I mean it's obvious Honda put more attention into modernizing the interior with the fn2....I'd take that tbh, as modding the engine is so easy. But living long term as a daily it's great Honda gave a splash of practicality and lush interior. I mean it sits among new cars without looking dated, Honda fn2 was ahead of its time with styling. Honda still provided a great platform.
It's a bit of a shame that Honda didn't put a little bit more into the FN2, they really are a cracking car especially if you have the later version with the L.S.D.
jdm 4TH, 5TH and 6TH Gears, lighter flywheel, AD08 RS Tyres, PBS Pads all round, K+N panel filter, front and rear rigid collars, Meister coil overs and a nice set up from Grinspeed along with uprated rear axle bushes, 15mm font and rear hub centric spacers and your getting there.
They could not meet rainbow transgender green agenda emission for European market this is why the age of NA is over.
FD2 & FN2 gear and diff ratios are exactly the same? You mean using DC5 4-5-6 gears? They'll be shorter because originally the final drive ratio was taller on the DC5 compared to the FD2 & FN2. The OE flywheel is only 5kg already (it's the same as the FD2 flywheel), I don't think you'll get a big benefit by going to the aftermarket Exedy/Toda 4kg flywheel (it's the same flywheel as the OEM lightweight FN2/FD2 flywheel, just with more holes in it as far as I can tell!).
@@TassieLorenzoI’m on a rpc 3.51kg lightweight fly wheel in my fn2
Great to see a video on a modified FN2. They need a bit of modding to make then really come alive. I've had mine 11 years, I'll say no more.
Why they didn't give it the K20A from the FD2 is still a mistery...with that and some brembos and it would have been amazing from the box. Great video, btw!
not only brembo , torsion rear suspension when the rest of the world got the independent rear suspension
@@javali6027 Driving my FD7 trough german autobahns and else on the limit since 1 1/2 years...in fast corners it does make a difference, the rear is just gliding trough :D I know 140 HP ain´t much, but it still rocks and it´s a rarety in germany, only the hybrid was available here, hope I can realize my K20Z4 swap asap
I think it's because fd2 doesn't meet euro emission standard?
@@sovan781 Torsion bar is because the 8th gen Civic hatch is (half) a Honda Jazz, that's pretty fundamental to the car and floor pan compared to other 8th gen Civics! "Why they didn't give it the K20A from the FD2 is still a mistery" Emissions, no 100 RON fuel in the UK, reducing cost to build etc.
At least it got the newer parts like the RSP cylinder head & FD2 gear ratios & lightweight flywheel which the 8th gen Civic Si in North America did not get (the Civic Si still had the older cylinder head that flows less, the old gear ratios, the old heavier flywheel; it has the same non-Brembo brakes too). [Of course the Si has independent rear suspension if that's important to you, but conversely less interior space with the seats folded down compared to the Honda Jazz platform which is incredibly spacious.]
The oil pump with balance shafts is bespoke to slightly increase refinement to suit the FN2's position of being targeted more to middle-aged buyers (as well as the RSP intake manifold with longer runners for more torque, and even the interior being a more discreet maroon compared to bright red in the JDM car). Not to say the FN2 Type R won over *every* prospective middle-aged Mk5 Golf GTI buyer, but certainly it may have won over *more* than the EP3 could have (and more GTI buyers than the FD2 Type R with rock hard suspension, no sound insulation, no cruise control, and a bright red interior could have)?
The weird thing is, the stig from top gear at the this came out actually loved the car. People tend to think what Clarkson says it's the law, but many times he has been proven wrong on his judgements, notably when he crapped on the Veyron as it was announced and doing a full 180 after driving it.
But everything is influenced by a opinion online nowadays, and people take it at face value, unfortunately.
The hills are alive with the sound of vtec…. Classic!
Had my fn2 2 years absolutely love it, I’m on tien springs, ultra racing rear arb, poly bushed lower arms & front arb with front & rear strut braces
Great car - I'm contemplating the Skunk2 Drop-in Cams and Balance shaft delete for my beauty - already spent nearly 3k on mods and bits and would be another 1.7k for those. It's so tempting!!!
@@noahdam8532 not yet… probably going to get an RRC inlet manifold now
Great video, nice to see another FN2 being built for track use, keep up the good work 👍
💯 as soon as the breather mods are done completely different car and awesome to drive I’m glad I gave it a chance the engine noise is definitely the best bit last of the na screaming vtec .
I fixed my gearbox by putting Amsoil gearbox oil in. The honda mtf oil had it popping out of 3rd
LSD is the best handling mod, I love mine 👌🏻
True! LSD/4-2-1/HONDATA.
@@HondaK20 agreed...just did mine mfactory racepack 1 LSD
Great review. Comments are handy also👍
Great vid Chris. With videos like this your viewership will surely increase.
Thanks, Benedict. Really appreciate the kind words.
You kept mentioning the dc5 cams...thats not the gain its the oil pump balance shaft delete from the fd2. The dc5 cams only maoe around 3hp more than oem cams. If youre upgrading the cams even off the shelf drip in cams can give 10hp
All the reviews were good apart from that bloater on Top Gear.
great video mate,would agree i with tegiwas 4,2,1,- invida q300 exhaust-j35 throttle body with a tegiwa airbox and a dyno tune gave me 222hp.if they had just done these simple mods would of been enough to make clarkson smile.you know top gear magizine that year the stig called it top hatch of the year!
put the RRC intake on it ...and you will net another 10 BHP
@@lexzenis2544 better put RBC, RRC need piston FD2 to works better
@@lexzenis2544 I don't think the RSP manifold is that bad. The Spoon FN2 still had the RSP manifold on it. There's less top-end potential but more mid-range potential with the RSP than the RRC manifold I believe, especially on K24 engines that could potentially benefit from the RSP's longer runners in the mid-range rpm band.
If you referring to the plot by Kowalski, the RRC gained 10hp over RSP above 7500rpm (and therefore 10hp peak as well) *BUT* it lost 10hp at 6000rpm and lost 5hp at 5000rpm while the two were pretty much the same everywhere else up to 7500rpm, so it's not completely a free lunch in favour of the RRC -- the RSP comes with longer runners for a reason after all.
By all means, gaining 10hp from 7000rpm to 8600rpm is good, but it's nowhere near as clear cut of an improvement as gaining 10hp all the way from 5000rpm to 8600rpm as your comment seems to imply the RRP does (indeed you *lose* some from 4600-6600rpm instead, while 6600-7000rpm is pretty much no difference)! It's not like the car's ratios are so close you can avoid dropping below 7000rpm, after all.
The advantage too of the RSP is that is "free" as it comes with the car, so you could always port it or shorten the runners. I think the RSP could be a particularly good manifold for K24s IMO, but it's not common in North America so that hasn't been explored that much.
@@TassieLorenzo great info there , appreciate that... perhaps the tuning is the all important net of the power. Ive been watching dynodaze tuners in UK. They have had tremendous success at getting HP increases from 4200rpm all the way to redline which was why i made my statement . there are no trade offs. just gains .
pls see the dynograph results at the end of these three vids from them with the addition to different k20 Fn2s
starting with...... (search in youtube )
You need to See these Results! My own FN2 Gets RRC inlet manifold. ( graph at 10:47)
LISTEN TO THIS! Honda Civic Ep3 TypeR Tuned after RRC inlet Manifold ( graph at 6:05)
Honda Civic Fn2 TypeR New Chain RRC Inlet Manifold and Map with Ecutek (graph at 9:14)
@@TassieLorenzo great info there , appreciate that... perhaps the tuning is the all important net of the power. Ive been watching dynodaze tuners in UK. They have had tremendous success at getting HP increases from 4200rpm all the way to redline which was why i made my statement .
pls see the dynograph results at the end of these three vids from them with the addition to different k20 Fn2s
starting with...... search in youtube )
You need to See these Results! My own FN2 Gets RRC inlet manifold. ( graph at 10:47)
LISTEN TO THIS! Honda Civic Ep3 TypeR Tuned after RRC inlet Manifold ( graph at 6.05)
Honda Civic Fn2 TypeR New Chain RRC Inlet Manifold and Map with Ecutek (graph at 9.14)
I’m glad they were not to be honest with you or else I wouldn’t of been able to afford mine 😂
How does it compare to a mk3 Clio RS?
Nice video!! Weight of the car?
Fuck what a great intro👌.
Yeah everyone seem to look down on these, I personally love it, Truly amazing car
Have you wheel Spacers?
so how much did the engine mods & tune cost ?
Whats the seat setup in this ?
It is a worst mod to put a 0 resistance air intake. If you want to kill the engine good way to start.
Does it drive better with 17s?
i sold my late 59 plate last year, 39k om the clock, fsh, i had a tegiwa 421, tegiwa carbon intake, and a milltek cat back and she made 226bhp, and 176ftlbs when mapped at performance tek in glasgow.
it was sooooo different over stock, vtec much sooner, and as makes no difference a 9k rev limit, wow!!! this is how the fn2 should have come as stock, as much as i was (and am a fn2) fan boy, honda kind of shot themselves in the foot on this one.
My problem with the FN2 is the rear suspension setup. It's disgusting.
Yet everyone loves Renault Sport cars with their torsion beam rear suspension..
FN2 biggest issue, siblings like FD2 & DC5 exist.
FN2 had no footing or justification to be there...
Forget that it says 'Type R' and consider it a 'Type S' model. It's not a track car. It has some sound insulation where the FD2 & DC5 have no sound insulation, it has cruise control, et cetera et cetera. Hopefully that makes it make more sense. It was positioned as more of a Golf GTI rival to try to sell to middle-aged buyers and it was pretty successful at that, not to mention setting the tone for more modern Type Rs like the FK2 and FL5 that merged the English and Japanese product lines and retain the "luxury" amenities to this day. [The LSD version of the FN2 is certainly much better at power down, but it's not like the European-spec EP3 had an LSD as standard either. That was about keeping the price/cost down.]
Here in Australia we had a detuned DC5 Integra Type R, which was a Integra Type S/RSX Type S engine, suspension and brakes, but with LSD gearbox and Type R exterior and Type R interior (the part numbers for all the exterior and interior bits are exactly the same as JDM Type R so does that make it a "real" Type R? but the parts numbers for the mechanical bits are mostly the same as RSX Type S, so does that make it not a "real" Type R?). "Type R" is Honda's brand they can do what they like in terms of mixing and matching parts I guess. 🙂 For the complaints, many of the parts like the front seats (apart from the colour), the engine block, head, crank, conrods, timing system (apart from the cams, pistons, oil pump & sump), shifter/gearbox/LSD/flywheel/clutch etc etc, are exactly the same between FD2 and FN2 after all.
@@TassieLorenzowith some mods you can achieve mugen20 performance and more than that. Without lsd it isnt type R, and rear sway oem is 0 mm. It transforms handling. For me Fn2 is cheap platform to make fd2 tracktimes if modded properly(4+pot brakes, big rotors, suspension, sways, lsd, breathing and engine mods). Mugen version had better track times than standard fd2 type R. For me it is enough.
@@SasaDraskovic That's all true! The FN2 is still a very good platform! Once you do FD2 oil pump and aftermarket drop-in cams (and all the other stuff intake/headers), the only difference at all in the engine is the compression of the pistons by 0.7 points which is not a big deal. 🙂 The chassis, as you imply, is more than capable -- it was raced by JAS as a rallycar and by Team Dynamics as a Super 2000 touring car.