I have owned 4 of these diesel libertys. That VM motori engine is pretty good once the emissions equipment EGR "falls off". These things were plagued with problems when they first came out and most dealerships didn't have people that knew how to work on them. This 2.8 liter engine is a older brother to the ones that GM put in the Colorados. Also VM motori also makes the 3.0 ecodiesel that RAM uses in their 1500s. Back in the day you could buy a tune from GDE that would solve a whole lot of issues on these engines.
I would think this would turn my brain inside out. I bet the customer is pretty happy you've guaranteed your work for a year. Hope it doesn't rattle loose again. Thanks for Sharing!
I have a `05 Jeep Liberty CRD that i bought new in early `05. It is powerful and darn near bulletproof for my use. We put a lot of miles on ours before we had any problems of any significance. Never had any electrical problems with it. Great video, always neat to see one a vehicle you own.
Atmospheric pressure sensor might reside in the ECU. I bought a 05 Liberty diesel for $700 that I have yet to diagnose. Customer had another “tech” replace a injector but the engine will not run. My old Autel would not work with the Liberty but my new one does but I got to busy with other projects. They are a rare bird. I derivative of this VM engine is now used in the Chevrolet Colorado. Engines were noted for head gasket issues but they are a wet liner design like a industrial engine. One minus is they have a timing belt.
Someone is getting really good at knocking off Bosch sensors, we have had issues over here in aus with a heap of DPF preassure sensors being knock off Bosch causing issues but still being sold through parts suppliers
I'm working on 2006 CRD and i just change PS pump n all the parts took forever to find and buy but finally here n it's done install 🥰 made lots custom on this jeep such as painted decal molding n wiring other stuff on... anyways have great day and keep on keeping on
I just recently obtained one of these CRD Libbys. I replaced things like the glow plugs, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, fuel filter head, and fuel injector return lines as a "120k mile service". Removed some other stuff, which should help extend the life of the engine and maximize fuel efficiency. I'll change out the head gasket and replace the head bolts with studs, and change out the rockers/lash adjusters while there (all potential problem areas), then replace the torque converter with a heavy-duty low-stall unit. One major problem with them here in the US is that hardly anyone knows how to work on them, they're a very nice engine one you address the problem areas. My other problem with them is the platform Daimler-Chrysler chose to send stateside with this engine - but all of the Liberty-specific quirks are well-documented and there's plenty of work arounds for those. I'm pretty tickled with my CRD, so far it has been a great Alaskan winter beater. And I have yet to have any starting issues (we've hit single digit temps in my area) and that's all without having to plug in the block heater.
Had a customer with a diesel Ford Escort when I worked on Cape Cod many moons ago , the guy took excellent care of it , darn thing had well over 200k miles , amazing
I know this jeep :) Soon as I saw the chrome accents and the my other diesel is a cummins sticker got a big ole grin. First time driving it I fell in love with it. I don't know if the same guy owns it or not, but he use to be a teacher at the school next to the shop. I always did the Inspections and oil changes on it. It for sure is a nice one!
90's 318, 360 full size trucks had issues with IAC connector problems ran into where owners changed IAC from Advance scans and still had the same problem. After I fixed the connector good as new.
Terminal fretting is a real problem on diesels. You are spot on. Even 5.9L Cummins, possibly 6.7L too, will lose injector bank 1 or 2 functionality as it goes into limp in. Cause is terminal fretting at one of two Valve Gasket/harness connectors. Unplug, fill with die-electric grease and fixed.
I've never seen a diesel liberty before. Never knew they existed. Man, I hate an interment fail. They can be a PITA to track down. Cheers & Merry Christmas, man.
Ivan This is a great engine, So great in fact that they recalled it to lower the boost. It was eating the automatic transmissions with its crazy torque. 30 mpg was correct. Warranty service was killing them.
A friend bought a brand new one around 5-6 years back to tow his rally car, and the trans failed at 40k miles. Dealer had the car for several months to get it fixed.
The main issue was in the torque convertor. Torque convertor shutter was so bad it would take out not only the convertor but the trans in some instances. The tune from GDE increased line pressure and changed shift points that helped somewhat. The torque these little motors had was right on the ragged edge of that the 545RE trans could handle.
On my 98 Contour, with the P0171 and P0174 lean codes. The main issue was the fuel pump and fuel regulator. Pump was only producing 46 psi which is the bare minimum, not any higher. The pump pressure should be 60 psi according to Ford. With the 2.5 V6, it needs the 60 psi of fuel pressure to run the engine at high RPM. It had a slight vacuum leak which we took care of earlier but the codes came right back.
Great diagnosis and NPR fix Ivan! Agree that diesel engines vibrates the crap out of a lot of these connectors and I typically do the same : pin spreading, spray contact cleaner and put a dab of dielectric grease on all those connectors. Actually do it routinely on my Isuzu shop truck and re-apply dielectric grease every after an engine wash. You should definitely get a diesel shop truck if you decide to change out the XL7.. Cheers!
Sounds like a similar issue I had with the MAF sensor on my 2008 2.5 Impreza last week. Threw a P0172 CEL and had the long term fuel trim set to -25%. Hot idle was around 3g/sec. Wiggled the connector around, engine shook a little bit, sensor went down to 2.2g/sec and fuel trim started leveling back out. CEL went out on its own after a while, and it's been fine ever since.
There are aluminum bond wires that connect the circuit board to the plug inside the afm. If I'm thinking of the correct afm then it could be that you wiggling the connector has improved connection but it will not be permanent
I have the big brother to that liberty. I have a 2008 grand cherokee crd 3.0L v6 and they are outstanding. Hands down best vehicle i have ever owned and my other rig is a 2015 durango with a hemi. The crd tops it in power, fuel consumption, and reliability. Ivan if you get the chance to buy a liberty or a grand cherokee crd, do it and dont think twice about it. They are extremely rare and only going to be more rare as they get wrecked or parted out.
Yes Nic, I pick up a minty 2008 3L diesel grand Cherokee almost 2 ago no DEF fluid it's been excellent My 2015 & 2018 6.7 diesel fords were total junk always in the shop for warranty work
the ambient air pressure sensor should be located inside the engine ECU if it a Bosch computer it the same as a VW TDI and the ambient temperature sensor should be the sensor that show the outside temperature inside the vehicle and most car they are mounted close to the front bumper.
Lots of turbo diesels in Australia fuel here is expensive but not as bad as Europe and the UK . I can see why they are not popular in America where petrol is much cheaper . Turbo diesel engines perform very well especially the high torque at lower revs makes the them very lively to drive and tow very well too. Lots of problems with blocked inlet manifolds through EGR mixing with oil mist from the crankcase ventilation systems forming hard thick deposits. Injectors can be a problem where leakage can cause cracked pistons on higher milage engines. Another great diag the boost reading tricked me until you mentioned it was reading actual atmospheric pressure.
That's wild ... I had that sound on my XJ, but it was because I put off replacing the exhaust manifold for about 10 years after it cracked. (hey, GA kept passing my emissions, so why fix it? Eventually I got tired of the noise)
IIRC they were only sold in the Midwest for a very short time and in 05, when I bought mine, I understood they only made 5000, total, of the Liberty. I could be wrong, but that's what my brain is telling me.
Wow, love the opening video when you walked over and cranked the engine, lol! Diesel clatter!! Takes me back lol! Great fix! I don't care much for a diesel with electronics on it! It ruins the Diesel! I prefer totally mechanical engine without anything added! I'm just old school! Used to have 1982 Bedford CF 2.3 liter diesel. Everything is totally mechanical! Lasted 400,000 miles before it needed a rebuild! Loved that van! Went everywhere with it, camped, pulled caravan, day trips etc. Too many memory's! Sir that jeep supposed to rattle and vibrate! It's a Diesel! Hahaha Great video ivan!. Many thumbs up! Edit: have you ever thought about a go pro that goes on your chest and head, keeps your hands free you work on?
I've heard Chrysler engines sound exactly like that before, the problem was they were Gasoline 2.7L v6 "LH engines". DOHC, 24 valves of fury, triple flailing loose timing chains, water pump leaking directly into the oil, metal everywhere from the obliterated timing set. shortly after wasting $$$$, Mr. Rodney #6 went to hammering a very sour tune, the piston could be pushed 1/4" downwards via screwdriver through plug hole. "there's your problem lady"
I bought one of these Limited's new in 2005. I parked it at my Dad's in 2015 when I moved out west from the Midwest. It had been sitting (never started) until about a week ago. I put a new battery in it and it burped right to life, exactly as the one in this video did. My old (Italian) father bet me that it would give me crap, but he lost the bet.
I noticed that when you had the replacement sensor installed and you had it KOEO the boost sensor would start at 6.6 psi. Then climb to 21.7 psi. But then when you unplugged the sensor it would do the same thing. So it seems like the customer installed sensor was acting like an unplugged sensor. There was 2 times where you unplugged the sensor and you can see that same thing happen. Where it goes up to 21.7 psi. Maybe somehow the sensor wasnt making good contact.
The 1st gen libertys, in my opinion, got a bad rep. I had a 2006 with the 3.7l 4x4 and I loved that truck. The only problem I had is I would have to change the cam sensor about every 6 months, but that thing was a runner and would go anywhere. It saw a lot of mud and the occasional snow that we get here in middle TN and I never had a problem with it. One time I even pulled a lifted 4x4 Toyota out of a ditch on ice covered asphalt. I would love to find one of these in a diesel.
Wow, I just rented a jeep on St Martin over the holidays, It was a diesel. Must have been one of the only ones on the island. Both times I stopped for fuel, I was cautioned by several people that I was at a diesel pump. Never heard of one prior.
I thought you were joking at first - I didn't even know they put diesels in these things! Interesting. Thing does shake pretty good - could see it on camera in the beginning on the close up of the sensor. Lots of counterfeit parts out there these days. Hard to know where to even trust your purchase. Sad times, no doubt about it.
I'm curious about the low RPM values reported by the crank and cam sensors. Did that go away with the reinstall of the original MAP sensor, or did that just not matter?
@@adotintheshark4848 Omg can just imagine a Spyder pulling up sounding like a miniature Cummins!!! Hats off to anyone that could make that engine/vehicle combo actually work without major re-engineering. I had an 08 Spyder back around when they first came out. Absolutely loved the thing!
@@adotintheshark4848 Very nice! Next I'm looking at getting a Polaris Slingshot. Yeah its a lot to spend on a toy that at least where I live, you can only drive it three months out of the year if you're lucky. But these things are just good for the soul. My excuse, and I'm sticking to it!!!!
@@CumminsDriver100 While I liked the Slingshot enough to nearly buy it, I was put off by its size. Also by its GM engine. However new Slingshots have a Polaris in-house engine said to be much better.
I have a Benz w203 270cdi, the engine cover fits very close to where the cables exit the can position sensor and can cause it to become unplugged and loosen the internal spade connecters causing a no start.... I have had this, also if oil leaks from the sensor O ring, t can contaminate the connectors... The signal current is so low so also causes a no start situation... I broke down at a filling station, luckily I had my scanner... Cam sensor fault... Was dirty terminals!
Mine was doing the same thing and I went through the steps as you did and yet it would run great and for no reason it would lose power and run like a Kobota.....so when I changed the fuel/water separator filter at the scheduled mileage it was BLACK!!!..I pulled the fuel tank and found it to have suspended particles of black jelly!!! what is the jelly? don't know but after cleaning the tank and putting on a new filter the problem has not come back that was in 2019
can you remove things like the egr from the ecu with that scan tool? I am thinking it's time to upgrade my scan tool to a more professional unit. thanks!
Yep, never was certified for Commifornia back then , we had only pickups with diesels certified here. This was a simple commonrail diesel before the DEF nightmares.
Sold one with 287,000 miles a few months ago. Looked like new but had a major oil leak so I let it go at the auction. The truck here is missing it's engine cover, which I still have if the owner wants one.
The Grand Cherokees with this engine never made it stateside, though I have seen plenty of the 2.5 CRD and 3.1 CRD in my time overseas. The ones that made it to the states had either the Mercedes 3.0 OM642 or the EcoDiesel/VM Motori 3.0 CRD.
Emissions have destroyed the diesel engine. I remember some of the best diesel from the late 90s early 2000s that were bulletproof. CAT 3126E, Cummins 5.9ISB, Powerstroke 7.3. Those were great engines. Detroit even had some nasty ones, they leaked like crazy, but if you kept them topped off they totally will run forever.
What a pain that the data for sensors and connectors were hidden or all over the place. Almost like it was shown that way on purpose :-(. A connector pin outs with colours and functions/typical tickover values would have made life simpler. Page two would show the sensor locations, overhead shot. I bet the haynes repair manual would have been nicer. Shame mr haynes passed away :-(
I think that last graph explains everything, the computer is lying to you. The boost pressure shown is some value it calculates over time, not a directly calculated value. Who knows how it is coming up with those numbers. Other 'weird' PIDs might be doing the same thing, too.
I had 2 of these jeeps --- and they both did the same thing...intermittently. I'm curious what the long term effect of this repair is. I took it to two dealers and neither could diagnose the problem. Its a shame that VW destroyed the diesel market.
The turbo boost pressure....seems very high. Is that normal??? I would expect mild boost of around one atmosphere maybe. Is the waste gate electronic or conventional?
the boost sensor is reading the normal atmospheric pressure and then it add the boost pressure over top of that let't say the vehicle is sea lever it should read 14.5 psi then if the waste gate is set for a pressure of 15 psi then the total pressure will show 29.5 psi .
Love watching . Dont know if you can give advice. I am in Australia. On a Disability pension so don't have much money. But i need a diagnostic scanner for my pajero i0 2002 but it needs to read mut2 can you recommend a cheap one regards Andy .
Doing some research “mut2” seems to be an old Mitsubishi protocol. Any scanner should have that protocol reading capabilities but I’d keep looking online
Love your Vids !!! Sort of a "Clue" game where Col. Mustard is from the CCP and the murder was done in the Main Hall with Dortman crappy parts cannon !!! LOL HNY !!!
And welcome to "France" on the erroneous electrical schematics ... the "CRD's" are very common over here in France (BTW, I'm a "Texan" living here so get your frustration). 40 years all over the World in "Aerospace" electronic systems (from hole PCB's to SMT) so yeah, a little "contact cleaner" goes a long, long way ... today's Automotive electronics ain't "Vacuum Tube" tolerant ;) And yeah, what engines we're missing out back home ... I have a 2000 Toyota 4x4 2.4 TD and will NEVER sell her ... she is truly "Bullet Proof" ... rolled down Alpine boulders and just keeps ticking ... truly amazing and a pity not allow in our Country !!! Get you one !!! I can go up stuff my in-laws lifted CJ's can't even dream of ... on "Street Tires" !!!
So why does the boost pressure read 13.8X psi when the engine is off. Can they not afford to put an A after PSI ? I don't care for how that was set up at all. I understand the one reading saying it was atmospheric pressure. Yea that's just stewpud
My initial thought was "what on EARTH could be wrong with that Jeep that could make it sound like a DIESEL?!?!?"
I have owned 4 of these diesel libertys. That VM motori engine is pretty good once the emissions equipment EGR "falls off". These things were plagued with problems when they first came out and most dealerships didn't have people that knew how to work on them. This 2.8 liter engine is a older brother to the ones that GM put in the Colorados. Also VM motori also makes the 3.0 ecodiesel that RAM uses in their 1500s. Back in the day you could buy a tune from GDE that would solve a whole lot of issues on these engines.
My egr fell off too...
U.S. emission controls are what did the 6.0 Ford Power Stroke in. In Europe that was a very good motor.
My EGR stuff fell off as well!!
I would think this would turn my brain inside out. I bet the customer is pretty happy you've guaranteed your work for a year. Hope it doesn't rattle loose again. Thanks for Sharing!
I have a `05 Jeep Liberty CRD that i bought new in early `05. It is powerful and darn near bulletproof for my use. We put a lot of miles on ours before we had any problems of any significance. Never had any electrical problems with it. Great video, always neat to see one a vehicle you own.
Atmospheric pressure sensor might reside in the ECU. I bought a 05 Liberty diesel for $700 that I have yet to diagnose. Customer had another “tech” replace a injector but the engine will not run. My old Autel would not work with the Liberty but my new one does but I got to busy with other projects. They are a rare bird. I derivative of this VM engine is now used in the Chevrolet Colorado. Engines were noted for head gasket issues but they are a wet liner design like a industrial engine. One minus is they have a timing belt.
I'm 38 seconds into this video and I have to say this- I drive an '03 VW TDI and I don't know what they're complaining about. Sounds normal to me!! 😆
Best comment ever lol
Someone is getting really good at knocking off Bosch sensors, we have had issues over here in aus with a heap of DPF preassure sensors being knock off Bosch causing issues but still being sold through parts suppliers
I'm working on 2006 CRD and i just change PS pump n all the parts took forever to find and buy but finally here n it's done install 🥰 made lots custom on this jeep such as painted decal molding n wiring other stuff on... anyways have great day and keep on keeping on
I just recently obtained one of these CRD Libbys. I replaced things like the glow plugs, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, fuel filter head, and fuel injector return lines as a "120k mile service". Removed some other stuff, which should help extend the life of the engine and maximize fuel efficiency. I'll change out the head gasket and replace the head bolts with studs, and change out the rockers/lash adjusters while there (all potential problem areas), then replace the torque converter with a heavy-duty low-stall unit. One major problem with them here in the US is that hardly anyone knows how to work on them, they're a very nice engine one you address the problem areas. My other problem with them is the platform Daimler-Chrysler chose to send stateside with this engine - but all of the Liberty-specific quirks are well-documented and there's plenty of work arounds for those. I'm pretty tickled with my CRD, so far it has been a great Alaskan winter beater. And I have yet to have any starting issues (we've hit single digit temps in my area) and that's all without having to plug in the block heater.
Had a customer with a diesel Ford Escort when I worked on Cape Cod many moons ago , the guy took excellent care of it , darn thing had well over 200k miles , amazing
I know this jeep :) Soon as I saw the chrome accents and the my other diesel is a cummins sticker got a big ole grin. First time driving it I fell in love with it. I don't know if the same guy owns it or not, but he use to be a teacher at the school next to the shop. I always did the Inspections and oil changes on it. It for sure is a nice one!
small world
Yup the guy is in Huntingdon :)
Is just crush it
90's 318, 360 full size trucks had issues with IAC connector problems ran into where owners changed IAC from Advance scans and still had the same problem. After I fixed the connector good as new.
I looked at the liberty back in 02, I'm on the tall side and really didn't have enough leg and foot room, nice diagnosis
Good job Ivan. Thanks!
Terminal fretting is a real problem on diesels. You are spot on. Even 5.9L Cummins, possibly 6.7L too, will lose injector bank 1 or 2 functionality as it goes into limp in. Cause is terminal fretting at one of two Valve Gasket/harness connectors. Unplug, fill with die-electric grease and fixed.
Limp mode AKA Chrysler Effect. Crazy that Jeep offered a diesel in that small piece of 'not-so-good' vehicle! The bumper sticker gave me a chuckle.
You should buy one! It's a great truck. I think it would serve you well, especially with how much you travel.
This is quite insightful. Thank you for this video.
I've never seen a diesel liberty before. Never knew they existed. Man, I hate an interment fail. They can be a PITA to track down.
Cheers & Merry Christmas, man.
Ivan This is a great engine, So great in fact that they recalled it to lower the boost. It was eating the automatic transmissions with its crazy torque. 30 mpg was correct. Warranty service was killing them.
A friend bought a brand new one around 5-6 years back to tow his rally car, and the trans failed at 40k miles. Dealer had the car for several months to get it fixed.
Transmission issues? In a Chrysler? That's crazy talk.
The main issue was in the torque convertor. Torque convertor shutter was so bad it would take out not only the convertor but the trans in some instances. The tune from GDE increased line pressure and changed shift points that helped somewhat. The torque these little motors had was right on the ragged edge of that the 545RE trans could handle.
@@caseyhill3915 Has anyone tried that Lubegard additive in these? It has worked miracles in other TCC shudder applications.
Would be a bulletproof truck with a beefed up manual transmission 😉
NIce! I have only seen a handful of these in my daily running.
I noticed the same thing Edwin did. First Diesel jeep I ever saw too.
On my 98 Contour, with the P0171 and P0174 lean codes. The main issue was the fuel pump and fuel regulator. Pump was only producing 46 psi which is the bare minimum, not any higher. The pump pressure should be 60 psi according to Ford. With the 2.5 V6, it needs the 60 psi of fuel pressure to run the engine at high RPM. It had a slight vacuum leak which we took care of earlier but the codes came right back.
Great diagnosis and NPR fix Ivan! Agree that diesel engines vibrates the crap out of a lot of these connectors and I typically do the same : pin spreading, spray contact cleaner and put a dab of dielectric grease on all those connectors. Actually do it routinely on my Isuzu shop truck and re-apply dielectric grease every after an engine wash.
You should definitely get a diesel shop truck if you decide to change out the XL7.. Cheers!
Sounds like a similar issue I had with the MAF sensor on my 2008 2.5 Impreza last week. Threw a P0172 CEL and had the long term fuel trim set to -25%. Hot idle was around 3g/sec. Wiggled the connector around, engine shook a little bit, sensor went down to 2.2g/sec and fuel trim started leveling back out. CEL went out on its own after a while, and it's been fine ever since.
There are aluminum bond wires that connect the circuit board to the plug inside the afm. If I'm thinking of the correct afm then it could be that you wiggling the connector has improved connection but it will not be permanent
I have the big brother to that liberty. I have a 2008 grand cherokee crd 3.0L v6 and they are outstanding. Hands down best vehicle i have ever owned and my other rig is a 2015 durango with a hemi. The crd tops it in power, fuel consumption, and reliability. Ivan if you get the chance to buy a liberty or a grand cherokee crd, do it and dont think twice about it. They are extremely rare and only going to be more rare as they get wrecked or parted out.
Yes Nic, I pick up a minty 2008 3L diesel grand Cherokee almost 2 ago no DEF fluid it's been excellent
My 2015 & 2018 6.7 diesel fords were total junk always in the shop for warranty work
Sadly jeep isn’t making diesels anymore :(
Heeeeeey, my Kubota tractor resents that remark.😝
the ambient air pressure sensor should be located inside the engine ECU if it a Bosch computer it the same as a VW TDI and the ambient temperature sensor should be the sensor that show the outside temperature inside the vehicle and most car they are mounted close to the front bumper.
Great Video! Thanks
Lots of turbo diesels in Australia fuel here is expensive but not as bad as Europe and the UK . I can see why they are not popular in America where petrol is much cheaper . Turbo diesel engines perform very well especially the high torque at lower revs makes the them very lively to drive and tow very well too. Lots of problems with blocked inlet manifolds through EGR mixing with oil mist from the crankcase ventilation systems forming hard thick deposits. Injectors can be a problem where leakage can cause cracked pistons on higher milage engines. Another great diag the boost reading tricked me until you mentioned it was reading actual atmospheric pressure.
That's wild ... I had that sound on my XJ, but it was because I put off replacing the exhaust manifold for about 10 years after it cracked.
(hey, GA kept passing my emissions, so why fix it? Eventually I got tired of the noise)
You are right on the money they are super rare even new
Cool truck. I've never seen one before.
Wow I had no idea these things even existed. Crazy.
Here in EU we dont have the idea 4.0 or v8 jeeps exist 😁😁
I didn’t even know they sold diesel jeeps in this country. Neat. It’s so loud it reminds me of an 80s diesel Mercedes 🤭
IIRC they were only sold in the Midwest for a very short time and in 05, when I bought mine, I understood they only made 5000, total, of the Liberty. I could be wrong, but that's what my brain is telling me.
What a cool truck pitty that they didn't come with a manual that would make it even more awesome
Always like those Jeeps. They only made them for 2 years, maybe thats why the diagrams are a bit lacking.
Wow, love the opening video when you walked over and cranked the engine, lol! Diesel clatter!! Takes me back lol! Great fix! I don't care much for a diesel with electronics on it! It ruins the Diesel! I prefer totally mechanical engine without anything added! I'm just old school! Used to have 1982 Bedford CF 2.3 liter diesel. Everything is totally mechanical! Lasted 400,000 miles before it needed a rebuild! Loved that van! Went everywhere with it, camped, pulled caravan, day trips etc. Too many memory's! Sir that jeep supposed to rattle and vibrate! It's a Diesel! Hahaha
Great video ivan!. Many thumbs up!
Edit: have you ever thought about a go pro that goes on your chest and head, keeps your hands free you work on?
I've heard Chrysler engines sound exactly like that before, the problem was they were Gasoline 2.7L v6 "LH engines". DOHC, 24 valves of fury, triple flailing loose timing chains, water pump leaking directly into the oil, metal everywhere from the obliterated timing set. shortly after wasting $$$$, Mr. Rodney #6 went to hammering a very sour tune, the piston could be pushed 1/4" downwards via screwdriver through plug hole. "there's your problem lady"
It sounds great..
I bought one of these Limited's new in 2005. I parked it at my Dad's in 2015 when I moved out west from the Midwest. It had been sitting (never started) until about a week ago. I put a new battery in it and it burped right to life, exactly as the one in this video did. My old (Italian) father bet me that it would give me crap, but he lost the bet.
Atmospheric pressure sensor is often integrated inside the ECU.
I noticed that when you had the replacement sensor installed and you had it KOEO the boost sensor would start at 6.6 psi. Then climb to 21.7 psi. But then when you unplugged the sensor it would do the same thing. So it seems like the customer installed sensor was acting like an unplugged sensor. There was 2 times where you unplugged the sensor and you can see that same thing happen. Where it goes up to 21.7 psi. Maybe somehow the sensor wasnt making good contact.
Yes! I noticed that too. Good catch :)
_" the customer installed sensor was acting like an unplugged sensor"_ Not exactly unusual for Chinese aftermarket sensors.
Vibration and corrosion. Small terminals and small currents.
Good fix!
yup, does sound like a kubota lol, loud compared to my old yanmar.
The 1st gen libertys, in my opinion, got a bad rep. I had a 2006 with the 3.7l 4x4 and I loved that truck. The only problem I had is I would have to change the cam sensor about every 6 months, but that thing was a runner and would go anywhere. It saw a lot of mud and the occasional snow that we get here in middle TN and I never had a problem with it. One time I even pulled a lifted 4x4 Toyota out of a ditch on ice covered asphalt. I would love to find one of these in a diesel.
Thanks Soo much! Little thing like this can save us shade tree guys do much grief!!!
correct me if im wrong but the atmospheric pressure sensor and boost pressure sensor is the same... much like ford map/baro...
Wow, I just rented a jeep on St Martin over the holidays, It was a diesel. Must have been one of the only ones on the island. Both times I stopped for fuel, I was cautioned by several people that I was at a diesel pump. Never heard of one prior.
I’ve seen this keep in my town before!!! She was a smoker!
I understand these vehicles were a bit problematic, but still a cool little truck. I have only seen one in my area ever..
I don't know if you noticed that right at the 4:13 mark the cam position sensor went from 0 rpm as you scrolled to 255 rpm just as it moved off screen
I thought you were joking at first - I didn't even know they put diesels in these things! Interesting. Thing does shake pretty good - could see it on camera in the beginning on the close up of the sensor. Lots of counterfeit parts out there these days. Hard to know where to even trust your purchase. Sad times, no doubt about it.
I'm curious about the low RPM values reported by the crank and cam sensors. Did that go away with the reinstall of the original MAP sensor, or did that just not matter?
They also put these engines in a few Grand Cherokees.
thanks
It’s a keep patriot / liberty or whatever what do u expect they were heaps lol
Wow didn’t know they made a diesel
I'm with you Ivan, i would love that engine in my Vitara.
I'd like that engine in my Can Am Spyder!
@@adotintheshark4848 Omg can just imagine a Spyder pulling up sounding like a miniature Cummins!!! Hats off to anyone that could make that engine/vehicle combo actually work without major re-engineering. I had an 08 Spyder back around when they first came out. Absolutely loved the thing!
@@CumminsDriver100 I had a 2013, similar to yours then bought a 2017 F3. Love it too.
@@adotintheshark4848 Very nice! Next I'm looking at getting a Polaris Slingshot. Yeah its a lot to spend on a toy that at least where I live, you can only drive it three months out of the year if you're lucky. But these things are just good for the soul. My excuse, and I'm sticking to it!!!!
@@CumminsDriver100 While I liked the Slingshot enough to nearly buy it, I was put off by its size. Also by its GM engine. However new Slingshots have a Polaris in-house engine said to be much better.
I have a Benz w203 270cdi, the engine cover fits very close to where the cables exit the can position sensor and can cause it to become unplugged and loosen the internal spade connecters causing a no start.... I have had this, also if oil leaks from the sensor O ring, t can contaminate the connectors... The signal current is so low so also causes a no start situation... I broke down at a filling station, luckily I had my scanner... Cam sensor fault... Was dirty terminals!
Mine was doing the same thing and I went through the steps as you did and yet it would run great and for no reason it would lose power and run like a Kobota.....so when I changed the fuel/water separator filter at the scheduled mileage it was BLACK!!!..I pulled the fuel tank and found it to have suspended particles of black jelly!!! what is the jelly? don't know but after cleaning the tank and putting on a new filter the problem has not come back that was in 2019
The atmospheric sensor might be built into the ECU
can you remove things like the egr from the ecu with that scan tool?
I am thinking it's time to upgrade my scan tool to a more professional unit.
thanks!
I have seen similar issues several times. Codes are there due to slightly corroded contacts.
Intermittent boost issue? sounds like a boost control solenoid going bad. On the Italian boat engine
if it comes back the egr valve is sticking open and causing the code
I thought the opening scan stated 2-wheel drive, but wiring data showed 4-wheel drive. Would that explain the wiring diagram being off?
Yep, never was certified for Commifornia back then , we had only pickups with diesels certified here. This was a simple commonrail diesel before the DEF nightmares.
Sold one with 287,000 miles a few months ago. Looked like new but had a major oil leak so I let it go at the auction. The truck here is missing it's engine cover, which I still have if the owner wants one.
Hey Ati! I too the engine beauty cover off for diagnostic purposes :)
Hey what about the glow plug? Will the CEL come back when cold? What about engine speed?
Hello , I need help . I repaired the ecm and the pcm . No improvement. No turbo, no fuel pump. No egr
I stopped buying auto parts on Amazon. Can’t even trust spark plugs are authentic
I dont know why anyone would buy anything off Amazon.
Perfect for plowing the north 40....
There are some Grand Cherokees out there too with that engine.
The Grand Cherokees with this engine never made it stateside, though I have seen plenty of the 2.5 CRD and 3.1 CRD in my time overseas. The ones that made it to the states had either the Mercedes 3.0 OM642 or the EcoDiesel/VM Motori 3.0 CRD.
@@AKJeeper I assume Mercedes in WK1 and EcoDiesel in WK2. If that's the same Mercedes as the Bluetec they have plenty of issues.
@@AKJeeper I have seen 3 the past few months.. I live in NY
I got the same problem i own a toyota prado 2006 with 1kz te engine
Emissions have destroyed the diesel engine. I remember some of the best diesel from the late 90s early 2000s that were bulletproof. CAT 3126E, Cummins 5.9ISB, Powerstroke 7.3. Those were great engines. Detroit even had some nasty ones, they leaked like crazy, but if you kept them topped off they totally will run forever.
In my opinion the 31series cat engines were boat anchors. The rest were awesome.
Screw the EPA. They do more harm then good
Liberty, Liberty. Only pay for what you need :)
What's that code scanner u got their looks like a tablet. I want one lol
Nice…this should be good…
I have a gas 14 cherokee sport that sounds like a diesel lol last one ill buy, 140k and trans neutral drops it's self at stop signs too
What a pain that the data for sensors and connectors were hidden or all over the place.
Almost like it was shown that way on purpose :-(.
A connector pin outs with colours and functions/typical tickover values would have made life simpler.
Page two would show the sensor locations, overhead shot.
I bet the haynes repair manual would have been nicer.
Shame mr haynes passed away :-(
"I'm sorry sir, I can't fix it. I don't usually do this but I'll let you give it to me so you don't have to deal with the hassle."
Swirl valve flap motor!! If it is just do the diode trick for 80 cents
I think that last graph explains everything, the computer is lying to you. The boost pressure shown is some value it calculates over time, not a directly calculated value. Who knows how it is coming up with those numbers. Other 'weird' PIDs might be doing the same thing, too.
Exactly, if the voltage is out of range, the PCM comes up with a "substituted value" :)
I had 2 of these jeeps --- and they both did the same thing...intermittently. I'm curious what the long term effect of this repair is. I took it to two dealers and neither could diagnose the problem.
Its a shame that VW destroyed the diesel market.
The turbo boost pressure....seems very high. Is that normal??? I would expect mild boost of around one atmosphere maybe. Is the waste gate electronic or conventional?
It's a diesel; high boost is normal.
the boost sensor is reading the normal atmospheric pressure and then it add the boost pressure over top of that let't say the vehicle is sea lever it should read 14.5 psi then if the waste gate is set for a pressure of 15 psi then the total pressure will show 29.5 psi .
Keep in mind it's reporting absolute pressure, so boost above atmosphere would be 33psi - 15psi = 18psi, which seems normal :)
it adds that reading to 14 so it was at 15 boost max
it's normal and there is no waste gate on the Liberty CRD. It uses a variable displacement turbo.
If only you could get a Kubota powered truck I would be right on it!
He needs a bumper sticker that says, "my other diesel works".
Sounds like Eric o. Tractor at south main auto lol
Love watching . Dont know if you can give advice. I am in Australia. On a Disability pension so don't have much money. But i need a diagnostic scanner for my pajero i0 2002 but it needs to read mut2 can you recommend a cheap one regards Andy .
Hey Andy, I'm not familiar with "mut2"... But any scanner with the Launch software should be able to do it. Sorry can't be more helpful!
Doing some research “mut2” seems to be an old Mitsubishi protocol. Any scanner should have that protocol reading capabilities but I’d keep looking online
I prefer the 05 because the ABS is simpler. I cannot keep my ABS light from coming on in my 06 no matter what I do. but my 05 gave me no problems.
Probably a failure in the ABS module.
05 lacks ESP which is a plus in my book.
@@echo700 esp sucks
Love your Vids !!! Sort of a "Clue" game where Col. Mustard is from the CCP and the murder was done in the Main Hall with Dortman crappy parts cannon !!! LOL HNY !!!
And welcome to "France" on the erroneous electrical schematics ... the "CRD's" are very common over here in France (BTW, I'm a "Texan" living here so get your frustration). 40 years all over the World in "Aerospace" electronic systems (from hole PCB's to SMT) so yeah, a little "contact cleaner" goes a long, long way ... today's Automotive electronics ain't "Vacuum Tube" tolerant ;) And yeah, what engines we're missing out back home ... I have a 2000 Toyota 4x4 2.4 TD and will NEVER sell her ... she is truly "Bullet Proof" ... rolled down Alpine boulders and just keeps ticking ... truly amazing and a pity not allow in our Country !!! Get you one !!! I can go up stuff my in-laws lifted CJ's can't even dream of ... on "Street Tires" !!!
CRuD limited...lol!
So why does the boost pressure read 13.8X psi when the engine is off. Can they not afford to put an A after PSI ? I don't care for how that was set up at all.
I understand the one reading saying it was atmospheric pressure. Yea that's just stewpud
"Diesel" model? Car makers still produce diesel model for USA market?
This one was available only 2005-2006 before the EPA got too strict with Diesels lol
MAP or MAF?
My Daihatsu Jeep is a diesel sinds 1991... 😀
Is that a mercedes diesel?
counterfeits can come off the same production line, the company just makes extra or sells seconds
or they're the QC failed batches, destined for landfill! of course there's no unscrupulous fuckheads that would ever black market sell them ehh? 💩
I got all confused and thought this guy was from New York. I've not seen one can of brake cleaner. I feel cheated.
At time 4:42, Fuel Pressure is at 5702.85 psi? That seems a little high, isn't it? Some of those numbers are ridiculous.
It's a common rail diesel they run very high pressures
Someone sent back their bad Bosch sensor in the China box for credit and the Amazon fulfillment house just put it on the shelf.... Just a thought...