this guy certainly doesn't cut corners, well he does, but only on the worktop when needed :) 99% measuring and prepping and clamping and cleaning and 1% router work. I think that's a lesson a lot of us could learn! I definitely could. :-D amazing job.
+Loz Horan Thanks! Im pretty sure there are lots of trades folk out there who could do this much quicker than I, but I find with many things checking and double checking can be cheaper than rushing and having to replace a ruined worktop :-) The jigs make things simpler, but they don't remove the measuring LOL!
AdventuresInDIY Your definitely right about the jigs, You wouldn't be able to do it without them, careful measurements and double checking is the real key to though - you can still mess it up big time if the jigs not in the right place, or clamped securely.
Thanks Steve! We call them Hotrod's, they're pretty popular now with solid wood &Solid surface worktops. They are either 12mm or 1/2" stainless steel rods that lay in the groves. I think they are supposed to be glue in, but we decided not to so the top can be more easily sanded or oiled down the line.
Superb, Rick! I've never actually fitted a kitchen (or even a worktop) so I can appreciate the work that must go in to it. You appear to have done a very fine job. I've seen attempted mitre joints between kitchen worktops and, well, they look anything but finished.
Thanks Olly! :-) Luckily for md though these were square edged worktops, rather than postformed edge, so the masons mitre wasn't required- something I was initially dreding! !! so the corners are simply but joints(PHEW! ) They did close up nicely though and sand up pretty well :-) Been asked to put a friends in next month too:-)
Good advice, I was lucky in so much as it's a solid wood so could be sanded flush after but a melamine faced postformed edge top would definitely benefit from that method for sure.
Wow Richard, that counter top is beautiful. I especially like the hot pot trivet next to the stove. I've never anything like that before. Very unique. Regards, Bob
Thanks Bob, they're called "hot rods" becoming more and more popular with solid wood and solid surface worktops......They come in either 12mm or 1/2" diameter, 100/200/300 & 400mm lengths.
I was about to say your end panel was flush with the base next to the washing machine but when you installed the doors it was flush with the doors 👍 lovely job
Thanks man! :-) I have to admit, although I wasn't looking forward to cutting them in, having not done it before, I do still get a warm little glow inside each time I go in there. :-)
very good quality work ......watching to learn as not a chippy and gonna try DIY . One thing i noticed . He didnt unplug the router when changing the cutter . As i have not used one before , they may have safety feature in which case ignore excuse my ignorance .
+donkey2lathe Good point. No TBH, I rarely do unplug the router when changing a cutter. For THIS PARTICULAR MODEL of router, I, as the user [and this is purely my own opinion] am confident that the router us not suddenly going to switch on whilst I'm changing the cutter. This is my own choice, and not meant as something which someone should copy. The safest method is is to always unplug the machine from the mains, and if there is even the shred of doubt that should be your method. but at the end of the day it's down to the user to weigh up the risks etc. I will openly admit that when I'm working on my own I simply turn the machine off to change a cutter, and rarely unplug it. That said, if I'm working anywhere where there are others around I will remove the plug and physically put it in my pocket. I can be confident with my own choices and actions but not those of others.
Great video, I'm going to be fitting some oak tops with a ceramic overmount sink. Obviously the sink will be bedded on clear silicone, should i oil the tops before fitting the sink? I'm worried the silicone wont adhere to the Danish oil, i know the silicone will grab bare oak better, but doesn't feel right leaving bare oak under the sink. All feedback welcome. Thanks, Joe.
I would oil the tops first, both sides, and then seat the sink onto a thin bed of silicone when it's fitted, also the normal bead around the edge as well.
This was fun to watch - I'm watching quite a few of videos lately and want to pick a router - can you help suggest one? I'm a DIYer, don't want to break the bank and don't want to buy multiple routers - just 1. Some have recommended to stick with 1/2 rather than 1/4 so I have more options for bigger jobs later. I'd like to spend up to £150 if possible (it looks like the router bits will cost quite a bit on top of that). A video might help others :)
+NICKY HOPPER your best bet would the trend website, assuming you're here in the UK there is a "stockist" section,just put your post code in and it'll come up with your local You can also buy direct from the website. If you're not in the UK, you can change the location to suit your country or location. Some things change for overseas, and might not be available. In which case you'll be looking at something like ebay is presume.
No, didn’t need to on this, but if you lay the next section on top, and mark the pencil line the OOS needs to be for the join, you can use that for your angle. Just remember you guide bush offset will be 8.6mm from your pencil line to your cut.
@@BrainFizz do cut the female joint as normal, its the male length wall that opens up off square, lie that in top trace female onto male with a pencil, set jig up parallel with pencil mark? Will the ftont turn on the Mason still line up and close up doing that?
As long as you pivot from the post firm edge and follow the jig properly the join will meet. Trend released a product called true cut for OOS a short while ago. I there’s a video of it in their channel showing various methids of joining off square corners.
Nice job Richard ! I'm about to fit a worktop to a belfast sink . Could I ask you if after routing a drip groove you need to mastic as well between the work top and sink or is the drip groove all thats needed ? kind regards Dave
Here in the states, Belfast sinks aren't super common, so I don't have much to work on. My question is on the distance fromt he sink to the worktop. Is it more common to use the drip groove and a negative reveal or is the sink ever sealed directly to the worktop flush mounted? Thanks!
You'll need the drip bead along the botton regardless of the distance from the sink as water is able to seep along a horizontal surface for quite some distance.... same principle as any external window cil. As to the distance up from the top of the sink, it's usually governed by the height of the unit that the sink sits on - with these kitchen carcasses it's a standard height, but the distance is usually around about an inch, so if you make your own carcass that's what i would work to. hope this helps.
Hi Richard. Excellent finish. I actually learnt to use a router from your 101 series and after some small practice projects have worked up to doing my worktop. So far so good. Can I ask. What did you use for the worktop join. I’ve seen conflicting advice, some say seal with PVA, let dry and apply a bead of clear silicone to join. Others say PU glue as it’s waterproof. Others say PVA and then join. I’m confuzzled. Any advice?
Usually a waterproof PVA glue is more than enough, for a joint.. I swear silicone around holes for sinks/hobs etc, as they are open to moisture, also boiled over pans/messy washing up etc keeps water sitting around which stops chipboard core post formed edge worktops from swelling. I stay away from PU glue as it foams up and generally makes more mess than i want to clean up.
Very nice job! Curious to know if there has been any movement in the corner joints over time? I'm about to do mine with 30mm solid oak and I'm tempted to use clamps along with glued biscuits to prevent cupping but I wonder about possible splitting.
+HaysieBoy Thanks. Yes, I'd d the same for thinner worktops, you just have to workout the depth of the bolt slots so the shafts of the link bolts are in line with the centre. It's also good practice to baton under any lengths that are Unsupported such as end and across appliances. If the worktops have a postformed edge you'll also need to do a masons mitre. Hope this helps.
My cream gloss kitchen is fitted and i am deciding betweek oak and granite/quartz. I like the look of oak but keep hearing scare stories about how much is stains, and also the routing for drying the dishes, that will be covered in water on a daily basis, how long will it last realistically@?
The reality of it is, it simply depends on how well you look after it. If you look after it, it’ll last you probably for ever. If you don’t, then not very long. That might not be very helpful, but it’s the reality.. I often get asked to refinish solid worktops that are in a terrible state and “only a year or so old”... you look round the rest of the place, and well there’s a reason why it’s in that state....
@@BrainFizz Yes im not afraid of maintaining it as in oiling etc... but if 'looking after it' means sanding off black marks once a month then i'd find that annoying. I have an undermounted sink... so wet dishes will sit on the grooved area overnight.... any issues? - there are so many threads where people say they have done all the maintenance but still get the black mould around the taps etc.... i get that some are better at diy than others but surely there must be some truth in the fact that it's a bit of a headache as a worktop but looks lovely?
+Richard “BrainFizz” Morley I was just wondering when you approach the end of your second cut toward the outside of the worktop , does it fray the timber ? Thanks for your replies
+NICKY HOPPER yeah it can do a little, but this is mostly because you're basically cutting a slot which ever direction you cut from, one side will be prone to this because of the rotation of the cutter (unlike where you cut a postformed edge worktop from the underside.) If you really want a super crisp corner you can take very light passes here,or mark with a knife first. TBH though putting a small radius on this corner is both far more practical in use, and it'll hid any breakout you might get.
Thanks! :-) It stops the water from running off the draining board, down and stops it running back underneath the worktop. The water is forced to drip down into the sink.
+Farmer Terry sorry for the slow reply!! I generally use the cardboard boxes that the carcasses come packed in, just open them out and cut to shape. If that's not available, you can get a plastic version/ product called antinox, full 8*4 sheets for a fiver, it's meant to be disposable, but I find I can use it a good few times before needing to replace it, really cheap.
It's an old "budget" Trend router jig, 12mm MDF with dowels for pegs. I don't think that you can get them anymore. does the job great, but really slow as you have to relocate for each hole rather than cut 3 at a time.
***** Mmm slow would be ok for me (I have only one kitchen:-)) - will do have to do some research to find something I can use. Thanks for sharing your stuff!
No problem! :-) Trend do still make these templates, so might be worth a look if you're near a stockist. Either that or try ant tool hire laces, I've seen a few hire firms doing these at resonably good day rates! :-)
this guy certainly doesn't cut corners, well he does, but only on the worktop when needed :) 99% measuring and prepping and clamping and cleaning and 1% router work. I think that's a lesson a lot of us could learn! I definitely could. :-D amazing job.
+Loz Horan Thanks! Im pretty sure there are lots of trades folk out there who could do this much quicker than I, but I find with many things checking and double checking can be cheaper than rushing and having to replace a ruined worktop :-) The jigs make things simpler, but they don't remove the measuring LOL!
Just thinking as I watch your video how beautiful the world is made by our trade artists! Great design.
Thanks!
Counters look really good! Looks like the key to all of that is using a jig to keep everything consistent.
AdventuresInDIY Your definitely right about the jigs, You wouldn't be able to do it without them, careful measurements and double checking is the real key to though - you can still mess it up big time if the jigs not in the right place, or clamped securely.
Nicely done. I like the templates and the cool built-in trivet thing with the grooves and metal bars. I've never seen anything like it.
Thanks Steve! We call them Hotrod's, they're pretty popular now with solid wood &Solid surface worktops.
They are either 12mm or 1/2" stainless steel rods that lay in the groves. I think they are supposed to be glue in, but we decided not to so the top can be more easily sanded or oiled down the line.
Superb, Rick! I've never actually fitted a kitchen (or even a worktop) so I can appreciate the work that must go in to it. You appear to have done a very fine job. I've seen attempted mitre joints between kitchen worktops and, well, they look anything but finished.
Thanks Olly! :-)
Luckily for md though these were square edged worktops, rather than postformed edge, so the masons mitre wasn't required- something I was initially dreding! !!
so the corners are simply but joints(PHEW! )
They did close up nicely though and sand up pretty well :-) Been asked to put a friends in next month too:-)
Looks great! My wife would love that. Guess I better not let her see the video, lol. She's already got too many projects for me.
This is useful to know not to attempt with no experience. Looks like a lot of work!
It does, but honestly, it's just a series of several steps.
Hi great job
Use the top of the worktop for routing the biscuit joint as there are differences in the thickness sometimes
Good advice, I was lucky in so much as it's a solid wood so could be sanded flush after but a melamine faced postformed edge top would definitely benefit from that method for sure.
Yeh I was gonna say how come is he routing from underside, like you say if there’s a slight difference in thickness it will show on top!
Wow Richard, that counter top is beautiful. I especially like the hot pot trivet next to the stove. I've never anything like that before. Very unique.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob, they're called "hot rods" becoming more and more popular with solid wood and solid surface worktops......They come in either 12mm or 1/2" diameter, 100/200/300 & 400mm lengths.
I was about to say your end panel was flush with the base next to the washing machine but when you installed the doors it was flush with the doors 👍 lovely job
All the doors are fired into face frames. :-)
Mate. Your a master craftsman. The job is a superb finish.
BAD BOY YARDIE LOL! Not sure about master craftsman, but it turned out rather well! :-)Thanks for watching
That gentleman is what you call a tradesman !!!
+NICKY HOPPER Thanks!! :-)
Brainjizz wow you are amazing. Love your garden too
🤭
awesome work Rich !!
Thanks man! :-) I have to admit, although I wasn't looking forward to cutting them in, having not done it before, I do still get a warm little glow inside each time I go in there. :-)
Wow !! Amazing craftsmanship Sir !!
thank you!
Nice work Richard!
Thanks J.D. :-)
very good quality work ......watching to learn as not a chippy and gonna try DIY . One thing i noticed . He didnt unplug the router when changing the cutter . As i have not used one before , they may have safety feature in which case ignore excuse my ignorance .
+donkey2lathe Good point. No TBH, I rarely do unplug the router when changing a cutter. For THIS PARTICULAR MODEL of router, I, as the user [and this is purely my own opinion] am confident that the router us not suddenly going to switch on whilst I'm changing the cutter. This is my own choice, and not meant as something which someone should copy.
The safest method is is to always unplug the machine from the mains, and if there is even the shred of doubt that should be your method. but at the end of the day it's down to the user to weigh up the risks etc.
I will openly admit that when I'm working on my own I simply turn the machine off to change a cutter, and rarely unplug it. That said, if I'm working anywhere where there are others around I will remove the plug and physically put it in my pocket. I can be confident with my own choices and actions but not those of others.
Wow matey! Blinding job well done.
+Andy Hoadley Thanks! :-)
I need a this job
Thanks was wondering if you knew a cheaper supplier , they all seem the same price ;) thanks
Keep up the good work
REAL tool kits aren't cheap
Cracking job mate.
Nice job. Thanks for posting
Very nicely done indeed 👍🏻.
Very well done, Richard!
Thanks Steve :-)
Nicely done Richard. Pukka job.
Thanks! The OH was happy, so that's the main thing- :-) (as was I)
Really great work. Thanks for the video.
+jason s Thanks for watching, and commenting! :-)
Absolutely fantastic great job
Great video, I'm going to be fitting some oak tops with a ceramic overmount sink. Obviously the sink will be bedded on clear silicone, should i oil the tops before fitting the sink? I'm worried the silicone wont adhere to the Danish oil, i know the silicone will grab bare oak better, but doesn't feel right leaving bare oak under the sink. All feedback welcome.
Thanks, Joe.
I would oil the tops first, both sides, and then seat the sink onto a thin bed of silicone when it's fitted, also the normal bead around the edge as well.
This was fun to watch - I'm watching quite a few of videos lately and want to pick a router - can you help suggest one? I'm a DIYer, don't want to break the bank and don't want to buy multiple routers - just 1. Some have recommended to stick with 1/2 rather than 1/4 so I have more options for bigger jobs later. I'd like to spend up to £150 if possible (it looks like the router bits will cost quite a bit on top of that). A video might help others :)
If it's router videos you're looking for, you found the right channel!! There loads, projects, info and tutorials!!
Very nicely done.
Thanks! :-)
Looks fantastic!
Thanks! Not bad for a first attempt! :-)
Great video, could you do a video on the drainer jig for the sink unit. Ashley
Ashley Short Great Idea, It would probably be on a piece of MDF/Ply rather than a piece of solid worktop, but Yeah (it's a pretty simple jig to use!)
Looks lovely, I bet you're pleased it's done :-)
Actually yeah I am a bit,Really wasn't looking forward to it, but once I got stuck in, it was good fun.
Any ideas where I can purchase a new jig ?
I'm wanting the Belfast jig and the drainer jig ....
+NICKY HOPPER your best bet would the trend website, assuming you're here in the UK there is a "stockist" section,just put your post code in and it'll come up with your local
You can also buy direct from the website.
If you're not in the UK, you can change the location to suit your country or location. Some things change for overseas, and might not be available. In which case you'll be looking at something like ebay is presume.
Hi m8, have you got anything showing how to join worktops, when the walls run out and aren't ninety degrees
No, didn’t need to on this, but if you lay the next section on top, and mark the pencil line the OOS needs to be for the join, you can use that for your angle. Just remember you guide bush offset will be 8.6mm from your pencil line to your cut.
@@BrainFizz do cut the female joint as normal, its the male length wall that opens up off square, lie that in top trace female onto male with a pencil, set jig up parallel with pencil mark?
Will the ftont turn on the Mason still line up and close up doing that?
As long as you pivot from the post firm edge and follow the jig properly the join will meet.
Trend released a product called true cut for OOS a short while ago. I there’s a video of it in their channel showing various methids of joining off square corners.
@@BrainFizz cheers for your help, I'll check it out
Nice job Richard ! I'm about to fit a worktop to a belfast sink .
Could I ask you if after routing a drip groove you need to mastic as well between the work top and sink or is the drip groove all thats needed ?
kind regards Dave
I didn't, but I think i would now, just to be safe...
Here in the states, Belfast sinks aren't super common, so I don't have much to work on. My question is on the distance fromt he sink to the worktop. Is it more common to use the drip groove and a negative reveal or is the sink ever sealed directly to the worktop flush mounted? Thanks!
You'll need the drip bead along the botton regardless of the distance from the sink as water is able to seep along a horizontal surface for quite some distance.... same principle as any external window cil. As to the distance up from the top of the sink, it's usually governed by the height of the unit that the sink sits on - with these kitchen carcasses it's a standard height, but the distance is usually around about an inch, so if you make your own carcass that's what i would work to. hope this helps.
Can you tell me where I can buy each of your jigs you use in your video?
They are all “trend tool technology” jigs.
They are sold from various retailers, in the UK, and abroad.
Google “trend router jigs”, 👌
Hi Richard. Excellent finish. I actually learnt to use a router from your 101 series and after some small practice projects have worked up to doing my worktop. So far so good.
Can I ask. What did you use for the worktop join. I’ve seen conflicting advice, some say seal with PVA, let dry and apply a bead of clear silicone to join. Others say PU glue as it’s waterproof. Others say PVA and then join.
I’m confuzzled. Any advice?
Usually a waterproof PVA glue is more than enough, for a joint..
I swear silicone around holes for sinks/hobs etc, as they are open to moisture, also boiled over pans/messy washing up etc keeps water sitting around which stops chipboard core post formed edge worktops from swelling. I stay away from PU glue as it foams up and generally makes more mess than i want to clean up.
Very nice job! Curious to know if there has been any movement in the corner joints over time? I'm about to do mine with 30mm solid oak and I'm tempted to use clamps along with glued biscuits to prevent cupping but I wonder about possible splitting.
No, no movement at all. I refinished it all a few months ago, but apart from that, it’s been good as gold.
Very neat job!
Would you join 27mm worktops the same way?
+HaysieBoy Thanks. Yes, I'd d the same for thinner worktops, you just have to workout the depth of the bolt slots so the shafts of the link bolts are in line with the centre.
It's also good practice to baton under any lengths that are Unsupported such as end and across appliances.
If the worktops have a postformed edge you'll also need to do a masons mitre.
Hope this helps.
really great job Richard ,do you have to oil the worktop both side underside and topside
Honestly, I think it depends on who you ask! I know people who do and those that don't. I didn't on these and haven't had any issues.
My cream gloss kitchen is fitted and i am deciding betweek oak and granite/quartz. I like the look of oak but keep hearing scare stories about how much is stains, and also the routing for drying the dishes, that will be covered in water on a daily basis, how long will it last realistically@?
The reality of it is, it simply depends on how well you look after it. If you look after it, it’ll last you probably for ever. If you don’t, then not very long.
That might not be very helpful, but it’s the reality..
I often get asked to refinish solid worktops that are in a terrible state and “only a year or so old”... you look round the rest of the place, and well there’s a reason why it’s in that state....
@@BrainFizz Yes im not afraid of maintaining it as in oiling etc... but if 'looking after it' means sanding off black marks once a month then i'd find that annoying. I have an undermounted sink... so wet dishes will sit on the grooved area overnight.... any issues? - there are so many threads where people say they have done all the maintenance but still get the black mould around the taps etc.... i get that some are better at diy than others but surely there must be some truth in the fact that it's a bit of a headache as a worktop but looks lovely?
None off that has been a problem for me. Wash up, dry up, wipe down.
If you leave water soaking on wood for hours and hours expect it to faulter.
I've always worked on a left to right basis , how does this work , in your opinion, on a Belfast sink cut out ?
+Richard “BrainFizz” Morley I was just wondering when you approach the end of your second cut toward the outside of the worktop , does it fray the timber ?
Thanks for your replies
+NICKY HOPPER yeah it can do a little, but this is mostly because you're basically cutting a slot which ever direction you cut from, one side will be prone to this because of the rotation of the cutter (unlike where you cut a postformed edge worktop from the underside.)
If you really want a super crisp corner you can take very light passes here,or mark with a knife first.
TBH though putting a small radius on this corner is both far more practical in use, and it'll hid any breakout you might get.
Crispy! U do something special with wood endgrain at sink area?
Thanks, No not really, the sink has the drip groove routed in it. and I give the end grain a couple of extra coats of oil, but thats it.
Very impressive!
thanks - but it's not actually all that. with a little know how and a few pointers most people could do it :-)
the material of the jig u used is carbon PA?
some kind of Phenolic Plastic
Master.
Thanks!
Looks fantastic!
Just had mine installed at the weekend, what stain/ oil colour is that?
So far on my test piece the oil supplied is way too light
There’s no stain or colour added to these, the timber is Oak, which may be darker than yours. The oil finish is liberon pure tung oil.
Use danish oil. Every 6 month.
Nice job, we'll done
Thanks!
Nice work fella. What's the groove under the butler sink for?
Thanks! :-) It stops the water from running off the draining board, down and stops it running back underneath the worktop. The water is forced to drip down into the sink.
Yeah I'm aware I've done loads ;) I usually make my own template for a Belfast , I'm just gunna bite the bullet and buy a laminate template ;)
Quality job
Thanks! I always enjoy jobs like this!
What router bit do you use for the heat protection strips is it a flute type? Thanks
The Stainless steel rods were 12mm (12.7mm are also available), so you use a matching cove cutting bit. I use Trend cutters
Excellent job, did you oil the worktops before or after installation?
They were oiled after installation.
Countertops looks amazing! Where can I buy those jigs?
These are all made by Trend routing.... there are loads of firms that make them though...
This looks real good. What brand jigs are these you’re using? Is it Combi?
All Trend jigs.
fittin my own solid worktops this week what wast that worktop protector you installed ??
+Farmer Terry sorry for the slow reply!! I generally use the cardboard boxes that the carcasses come packed in, just open them out and cut to shape. If that's not available, you can get a plastic version/ product called antinox, full 8*4 sheets for a fiver, it's meant to be disposable, but I find I can use it a good few times before needing to replace it, really cheap.
nice job
Thanks! :-)
Nice work ;-)
Thanks! :-)
great vid
mark wilby Thanks! Glad you enjoyed :-)
Did you make the joining template or did you buy that somewhere ?
It's an old "budget" Trend router jig, 12mm MDF with dowels for pegs. I don't think that you can get them anymore. does the job great, but really slow as you have to relocate for each hole rather than cut 3 at a time.
***** Mmm slow would be ok for me (I have only one kitchen:-)) - will do have to do some research to find something I can use. Thanks for sharing your stuff!
No problem! :-)
Trend do still make these templates, so might be worth a look if you're near a stockist. Either that or try ant tool hire laces, I've seen a few hire firms doing these at resonably good day rates! :-)
This makes sense
It’s pretty straight forward, following the instructions, and careful measurements will also help!
That's waaay above the usual standard of work, I'm guessing you have a lot of experience/ training under your belt?
Not really
why no masons mitres ?
No need, these were square edged tops.
The bollocks mate
+Richard Girling Thanks!
Safety goggles?
I’m sorry I don’t understand the question. 🤷♂️
Shit hot
Thanks!
Why rush through it, better if you give a tutorial….
Better for you, but you’re not making the video…….