3D Printed TouchDRO Display Mount for Lathe
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
ERYONE Matte Navy Blue PLA: amzn.to/444HSuB
Black PA6-CF: us.store.bambu...
Black PLA: amzn.to/3Uaa3Ue
Original design for universal phone stand:
www.thingivers...
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "Strangers" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist: • Strangers
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
functional
print
fpf
lathe
Nylon
Carbon Fiber
PA6-CF
PM1440GT
precision matthews
1440 
Наука
Too funny seeing a TouchDRO. I ordered one for my lathe and guess what? He lives on my street lol. I got to walk over and pick it up in person!
He's a great guy.. great product, and fantastic support
that's awesome!
Washing the build plate with actual Dawn dish soap solves most of my bed adhesion problems. "Nice" soap tends to have oils in it for scent. There's also Vision Miner bed adhesive
VisionMiner bed adhesive on a smooth PEI sheet will work. I just got that combo working with off-brand blue nylon string trimmer filament, so it will work for PA-12 or PA-06.
O man, I have so many old mobile phones being used as accessories for other stuff I lost count! I have a Microscope, DRO, Remote Jog Pendant, Webcam, it's endless.
This one is actually brand new. My wife picked it up (prepaid phone) in a pinch when her normal phone wasn't working and she was far from home. Somehow the phone was "free" with 35 bucks in prepaid minutes. I thought for sure it was somehow a scam or we were missing something, but the phone legit only cost me 35 bucks with no other strings attached. I think they do carrier lock it until you buy enough minutes, but I could care less since I only need the wifi to work.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday That's awesome!!
This video gave me some inspiration to design/print a similar bracket for my wood lathe. Not for TouchDRO, but for other attachments.
Thanks for the awesome series!
Great to hear!
Im not an expert in that material, but general bed adhesion tips
1) wash build plate with Dawn
2) wipe off build plate with IPA. Do this so you're wiping off, not just pushing around.
If that doesn't do it, there's hairspray or glue stick (not sure if they can react with your filament).
If all else fails, you may have to resort to blue painter's tape.
Good luck my fellow maker!
I stopped at 3:21 to tell you that I had the exact same problem with sticking on my two day old Bambu Mini. Everything I printed came out perfect until I got to this one file. I even added glue stick which was not needed before. Even that didn't work. Somehow, somewhere, I made a mistake in the drawing. OR I sliced it in Cura by mistake. The Bambu doesn't like my Cura slices and usually won't print them at all. To make a long story shorter, I redrew the damn thing, sliced it in Bambu Studio, and it printed flawlessly.
Clean the PEI plate with IPA and it will stick better than ever. Use a microfiber cloth.
Adhesion could be nozzle wear issue too. If you purge the material and it comes straight down it's something else, if it curls up against gravity it's the nozzle.
I've used gluestick with Fusrock abs-gf. It wouldn't stick to the bed till I used it. Added painter's tape for easy removal.
gluestick for the win
19:00 blue tape pressed really well will give you a clean edge if you get squeeZe out.
Can you use one of these acrylic glue allocators with the tiny needle. Place together then squeeze till you fill the void etc.
Foam applicator qtip or even a syringe. For application.
Tape to protect for sure.
9:45 cable tie engineering 👍
Try some scigrip/weldon. It works really great with abs (probably because it’s meant for acrylic). The key for any adhesive/cement/glue is prepping the surface. Use some high grit sandpaper (300-400), or some green scotchbrite to rough up the mating surfaces.
I love your videos and channel. Practical items that you can print at home.
I also love your ride in the background that I just noticed! Probably because I just bought the identical truck in white. Great vehicle!
thx! It's my 3rd Tacoma. Great trucks
Love your videos so much. My path has been the opposite - tons of 3D printing experience, then got into machining. It's so interesting to watch the progression from the other perspective.
Anyway, the monitor/coolant pipe clamp you built is another part I'd personally recommend in something other than CF-PLA; I suspect creep will become a pain with it loosening over time. PLA sucks under constant load. Looks like the tolerances are tight enough it might not be an issue, but if you get bored one day I'd suggest reprinting in CF-PA6 if you can get it clean, or if not CF-PETG... my personal favorite all-rounder.
It's actually the same for me. I've been 3-d printing for 8 yrs, and I guess I did dabble a little in machining with a very basic lathe prior to that, but I've only just picked up the big lathe and mill in the last 2 years. I pretty much love anything that helps bring the crazy nonsense designs in my head into reality. There is no one perfect medium or process. Gotta learn em all :)
Garolite (G10) is hands down the best bed surface for any Nylons. Others will work okay, but I've never had a Nylon print fail to stick to G10. No adhesive needed at all, just clean with IPA. You can build your own by sourcing G10 sheets, or buy a bed from Lightyear. I've done both with equal results. Great projects!
Oh, and if you haven't heard of it, give Layerneer Bed Weld a try. It's literal magic.
The things you print are certainly very elegant designs and solutions.
thx! really enjoying your content as well. Don't let those chocolates get you :)
Thank you! I appreciate you looking in. I uncovered a nest of those pests - they get in mechanisms and jam up workings. Most vexing. 😁
A trick to more easily get a “snug” fit on the inside of a hole: put a couple axial ridges along the inner face. It gives you a much wider tolerance for a decent fit, since the individual ridges can deform and sort of press out into the infill. If the inner surface is completely circular, the only way for it to deform is for the entire perimeter to stretch, which gives you a very small window to work with.
great idea, thx!
not sure if carbon nylon is similar to petg-cf; but I had to raise my bed temp to nearly max recommended as well as nozzle temp. Additionally getting the latest bambu firmware has helped a ton. Also on especially tricky prints slowing down a lot helps _and_ cleaning the print bed _every single print_ as well as ensuring the nozzle tip (outside) is clear before every print.
Goodluck!
That's so cool. Your projects are great.
thank you!
13:13 threaded insert with a knurled nut to tight to exact angle you want.
Hi, your an experienced 3d printing enthusiast, so I don't intend tp preach. But sometimes the print bed needs a thorough wash, dry then wipe down with alcohol. Don't let it dry flat or there is a risk of corrosion. Then I know many people despise this, but doesnt hurt to use glue stick
As others have said clean the bed properly with soapy water and then with IPA. Afterwards try using a product called 3DLac which is basically the hairspray so many above-mentioned. That works well for me on the same machine.
Great job ...when you mentioned blue, I was initially thinking it was going to match the blue of the coolant tube, to "tie" those two pieces together in that area (I hope this comment doesn't trigger a desire to make that a reality!)
I like it a lot! Well done.
Clean your PEI build plate with some rubbing alcohol, and heat soak your bed for a little bit till the chamber temp is up there. If it still wont stick, try increasing bed temp till you find a good temp that makes it stay stuck to the bed. I think I did 110c on my bed for nylon, but I cant remember... Oh, also, you might need to slow down first layer too so that it fills all the little pits on the PEI sheet and sticks better. If you print too fast on first layer, it sometimes creates little air pockets and cause it to peel up easier.
about your bed adhesion issue.. since your using the gold PEI surface, you can use Acetone to clean it. PEI is not effected by acetone. Of course test in an small area first. Also be aware to stay away from the lettering with the acetone, it will remove the screen printing. I have switched to only using Acetone on all my gold PEI, smooth or textured, and it's much better than using ISO. Oh, and don't use cheap nail polish remover even if it says Acetone... that stuff always has additives or is cut with something.
I've had so much luck with spraying the bed with hairspray.
did you try glue stick? spray the bed winddex and air dry? Try the Bambu Engineering build plate?
If you want the one fastener through the bottom on the phone holder you needed to make the dowel into a triangular shape to make it rigid :)
great idea, thx for sharing
Regarding that one part and the failed prints, I've had this issue with some parts. It baffled me that one part would print but that one would not stick. I ended up moving the print to a different section of the bed. It was then able to print. Honestly have no explanation why it would make a difference. Also, I use glue paste for better bed adhesion.
Maybe rubber strip in vgroove of clamp? Head plastic against hard plastic will allow phone to vibrate out.
Had the same issue added the bambulab glue in the bottle and its magic sticks everything.
It looks like coolant valve now open toward the piece you are working on instead of away, will that be a problem? Any chance of interference opening and closing.
In the video coming out today, you can see I set the final position and the valve is in the closed position
So the gloop isn't actually Glue I don't think - I believe its a chemical that melts the plastic together instead of an adhesive - yes, amazing strength - I've tried to get things apart and the plastic fails NOT the connection. What I've found to do is to take my time to get a nice coat of gloop on the parts - make sure I'm still staged good and ready to assemble - THEN add a second coat before putting the 2 parts together for the final time. While it looks like it sets, it IS still "working" and the second coat increases that working time. A clamp works wonders too if you can...
thx, I'll give that a try
I print my PACF on the Engineering Plate from Bambu, and I've never had adhesion issues even with parts with a very small footprint.
What brand filament are you using?
@@lroyson I've used both the regular PA12-CF and the PAHT-CF from Bambu. To be fair, I've never tried the PA6-CF.
PA6-CF from Bambu
What buildplate did you use to print pa6 cf ? Would a glass bed be preferable for this use?
What build plate temp did you use? I would recommend 240/250°c for pa6 cf.
What layer height for the 1 layer ?
And is you first layer set right with the correct squish and maybe use a brim to prevent lifting from the bed.
Bambu Textured PEI
Be careful with old android phones thet are always on and plugged in. They have a tendency of killing what is basically very old batteries already.
I've been using them on my printers as touchscreens and I already had 2 battery puff up in a few months.
I modified the last one to work without a battery, but it was a pain and I can't really recommend it.
Appreciate the heads up. This one is actually brand new. My wife picked it up (prepaid phone) in a pinch when her normal phone wasn't working and she was far from home. Somehow the phone was "free" with 35 bucks in prepaid minutes. I thought for sure it was somehow a scam or we were missing something, but the phone legit only cost me 35 bucks with no other strings attached. I think they do carrier lock it until you buy enough minutes, but I could care less since I only need the wifi to work.
That vision miner liquid or blue tape will stick.
I never print without 3dlac. Have you tried this?
I would have taped the edges so the gloop doesn't go where you want... would that work?
P.S. Use a Bic lighter to clear the hollow applicator tip. Lots of videos.
👍😎👍
ive found the engineering plate works a lot better for carbon nylon. that and drying the filament for 12 hours before printing.
10:50 what CAD are you using? can your edit stls directly?
I always have to go through blender and I hate blender
Sketchup Make 2017
you never heard of masking tape?
yup, it's all I use on my OG Anet A8
hi
hi :)
Watching someone design something in sketchup is like watching a caveman work steel. Learn Fusion for pete's sake.
THUNK THUNK THUNK GRUNT GRUNT THUNK THUNK :)