Great video awesome to see that you was willing to help a fellow constituent when it comes to the hobby. At my train club when it came to anything having corrosion, I use vinegar. Due to the fact that we're dealing with plastic parts too as well. I'm not sure if you knew that or the other constituents on this thread nose but yeah for parts like plastic and metal I learned that from working on my cars. Well at least the battery part at that. Vinegar is real good to clean up corrosion instead of using something very very harsh.
The screws that are missing on the atlas to hold the decoder to the frame are the electrical contact for powering the decoder. So by you insulating the decoder and not having it screwed in it'll never work.
Good one Dave. Electricity and water are not a good match. Well done. I recently did a series called Rusty Box repairs. One loco had an ants nest in its motor before sitting in water. 😅 Happy Trains.
Hi David! Nice job on restoring that Athearn Genesis SD70ii! That's too bad the original owner treated their trains so badly, I try to keep all of my engines away from potential areas that would have any type of moisture or water. Also, I'm very familiar with taking apart and servicing all types of Athearn models so if you're ever stuck, you can reach out to me for any assistance!
Atta boy. Nice video, even if you cheated us on that first one. ;) LOL Those Atlas models seem well designed. I like that it was not a nest of wires holding the shell on.
Great video. You may want to try taking the QSI chip out of the board and cleaning the contacts. I have an older engine with a QSI board and I have to do that every so often. Thanks for sharing.
Dave, remember QSI decoders have the start up sequence. It will not move till you do the start up. The QSI decoders in the Atlas locos are the same configuration as you Proto E7 NYC loco, but may be the older Q1 instead of the Q1a. P.S. QSI decoders are not junk you just can't abuse them.
Dave, I was yelling at the tv trying to give you some help. I guess you did not hear me. Old QSI, just replace it. The Interlocking trucks on the Athearn a pain in the ass. You did well though.
Is your coupler height gage metal. If so, maybe insulate that part of your program track it could possibly short something out on your controller. Great video. You are an accomplished model railroader even after only 2 to three years into it. Love watching your videos. Thank you for sharing your secrets 😊
May I suggest an ultrasonic cleaner. I’ve used mine to clean up some super old trucks like that, and it cut down on the time spent cleaning the wheels and such. Arthritis sucks.
Well, that is quite a challenge. Flood might be one of the worst to overcome. 3 challenges, 1 looks like a definite save and one a definite loss, but something tells me you won't let it sit at those odds.
Hey Dave.Those Athearn genesis locos use a Bueler can motor & are pretty good quality.That motor really sounds iffy.They should run really quietly.Seems to run ok but maybe some oil on the bearings could help it, or the windings inside the motor may have gotten damp & creating that noise.Failing that,maybe plenty of playing......whoops, I mean running may help,lol. The Atlas will have similar issues with its trucks, & they come apart the same way as the Athearn. Hope those bronze pickups dont get tarnished as time goes by.By the way, those bronze pickups just pop out of the plastic sideframes, they are a neat fit. Thanks for the video, Dave.
I am part way through, the QSI instructions say to try the first way on the Main if no response on the Programming Track. Did you try to program the three CVs on the Main? I wonder.. I will keep watching. LOL
This is exactly why you have a test track to test these sort of things.. a piece of track that you can run power to, to test motors in DC or DCC which is away from your track. Please in the future do not cut wires unless you know what they do or where they are going, precisely!!..... when you cut the wires on that plug you should have made a test plug to connect into that.. even a small paper clip will poke into those connectors...(ask me how I know, I've been doing electronics for 40+ years and learnt the hard way and been taught the right way....). If you are going to be repairing models you need test equipment and connectors.. etc.. Please Please make some test leads !!.... buy a 9volt power connector with lead.. they are very cheap and easy to use just clip it onto the top of the battery and then you have power leads to test with... but be aware.. even 9volts can fry a circuit board or motor!!!! Find the model and make info and go to the manufacturer's web site and download a manual and any other info before you start disassembling things if you do not know the model you are working on!!! You took the model out of the box with the info on the end of it... simple as.....
On my model trains i don't waste my time with that ''DCC'' junk that's why ill stick with good old 'DC' power, ''DCC'' is just a waste of time i would rather be running my trains than fiddling around with that ''DCC'' which is a pain in the buttocks!
Overcome the problems is always nice when it works. Well done Dave
Nice work, I like the CN paint schemes - may have to get a CN lash up going down the road. Enjoying your channel.
Nicely done on the CN loco. A bit of a pain but you were successful 😁
Great video awesome to see that you was willing to help a fellow constituent when it comes to the hobby. At my train club when it came to anything having corrosion, I use vinegar. Due to the fact that we're dealing with plastic parts too as well. I'm not sure if you knew that or the other constituents on this thread nose but yeah for parts like plastic and metal I learned that from working on my cars. Well at least the battery part at that. Vinegar is real good to clean up corrosion instead of using something very very harsh.
The screws that are missing on the atlas to hold the decoder to the frame are the electrical contact for powering the decoder. So by you insulating the decoder and not having it screwed in it'll never work.
I was thinking about that, but I don't see any "lines" from the screw holes to the circuitry. I'll check again.
Nice work Dave!
Good one Dave.
Electricity and water are not a good match.
Well done.
I recently did a series called Rusty Box repairs.
One loco had an ants nest in its motor before sitting in water. 😅
Happy Trains.
Davy jones's locker storage method killed the decoder
Hi David! Nice job on restoring that Athearn Genesis SD70ii! That's too bad the original owner treated their trains so badly, I try to keep all of my engines away from potential areas that would have any type of moisture or water. Also, I'm very familiar with taking apart and servicing all types of Athearn models so if you're ever stuck, you can reach out to me for any assistance!
Atta boy. Nice video, even if you cheated us on that first one. ;) LOL Those Atlas models seem well designed. I like that it was not a nest of wires holding the shell on.
Great video. You may want to try taking the QSI chip out of the board and cleaning the contacts. I have an older engine with a QSI board and I have to do that every so often. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks John, I'll try that
Dave, remember QSI decoders have the start up sequence. It will not move till you do the start up. The QSI decoders in the Atlas locos are the same configuration as you Proto E7 NYC loco, but may be the older Q1 instead of the Q1a.
P.S. QSI decoders are not junk you just can't abuse them.
Yes, I tried f9 to shut down and f6 for startup etc.
Dave, I was yelling at the tv trying to give you some help. I guess you did not hear me. Old QSI, just replace it. The Interlocking trucks on the Athearn a pain in the ass. You did well though.
Wow! Challenge accepted. Nice work.
Genesis trucks definitely can be a challenge 😊
I guess Dave you were able to save two of the Three
new board vs buying a new locomotive. I'd choose the new board... JUST SAYIN.
Is your coupler height gage metal. If so, maybe insulate that part of your program track it could possibly short something out on your controller. Great video. You are an accomplished model railroader even after only 2 to three years into it. Love watching your videos. Thank you for sharing your secrets 😊
It's a plastic height gauge, but great thinking
May I suggest an ultrasonic cleaner. I’ve used mine to clean up some super old trucks like that, and it cut down on the time spent cleaning the wheels and such. Arthritis sucks.
Axles seized to to the bearings on the sd70
I’m so jealous 8-40bw it’s a dream loco of mine
Well, that is quite a challenge. Flood might be one of the worst to overcome. 3 challenges, 1 looks like a definite save and one a definite loss, but something tells me you won't let it sit at those odds.
That well I think, and I just found out your live streaming as I type. See you in a few
Not sure, but I wonder if a Programming Track Booster would help?
Hey Dave.Those Athearn genesis locos use a Bueler can motor & are pretty good quality.That motor really sounds iffy.They should run really quietly.Seems to run ok but maybe some oil on the bearings could help it, or the windings inside the motor may have gotten damp & creating that noise.Failing that,maybe plenty of playing......whoops, I mean running may help,lol. The Atlas will have similar issues with its trucks, & they come apart the same way as the Athearn. Hope those bronze pickups dont get tarnished as time goes by.By the way, those bronze pickups just pop out of the plastic sideframes, they are a neat fit. Thanks for the video, Dave.
Yes, it's getting pretty quiet now after some intensive running in;-)
I am part way through, the QSI instructions say to try the first way on the Main if no response on the Programming Track. Did you try to program the three CVs on the Main? I wonder.. I will keep watching. LOL
Yeah, I tried both ways.
The caps are a keep alive
hehe . love the comment only half of it will be broken...
WHERE DID YOU GET THAT T-SHIRT?????
I was sent a box of shirts to try on, from Casual T's. I'll drop a link here.
casualtsapparel.com/
The QSI decoders are junk they fail without getting wet anytime I get one it’s instantly ripped out and I put loksound or tsunami in it
This is exactly why you have a test track to test these sort of things.. a piece of track that you can run power to, to test motors in DC or DCC which is away from your track. Please in the future do not cut wires unless you know what they do or where they are going, precisely!!..... when you cut the wires on that plug you should have made a test plug to connect into that.. even a small paper clip will poke into those connectors...(ask me how I know, I've been doing electronics for 40+ years and learnt the hard way and been taught the right way....). If you are going to be repairing models you need test equipment and connectors.. etc.. Please Please make some test leads !!.... buy a 9volt power connector with lead.. they are very cheap and easy to use just clip it onto the top of the battery and then you have power leads to test with... but be aware.. even 9volts can fry a circuit board or motor!!!! Find the model and make info and go to the manufacturer's web site and download a manual and any other info before you start disassembling things if you do not know the model you are working on!!! You took the model out of the box with the info on the end of it... simple as.....
Put screws 8n it.
Screw the decoder in.
Cv8 to 8, then take loco off. Place back on track.
Unfortunately not. QSI is a different breed of complicated.
Cv8 to 8
Nope
On my model trains i don't waste my time with that ''DCC'' junk that's why ill stick with good old 'DC' power, ''DCC'' is just a waste of time i would rather be running my trains than fiddling around with that ''DCC'' which is a pain in the buttocks!
hahaha, don't hold back, say what you feel.
@@ScottRails Thank you very much for answering my reply.