i think the wooden plug idea will be best in terms of quality and content. especially if the foundry up the road lets you get some footage. and if the project is really good as you said you could repeat and sell them
C please 👍 Time isn’t the problem for us viewers, especially as you have other things going on in between. I’ve probably got a 6speed nsr250 cassette g/box lying around if you want one (not sure what postage is from the UK…)😂👍
I appreciate the offer, I’ve got a spare RGV cassette in my drawer. The idea of getting rid of the cassette is to make casting the engine easier. I’m not worried about the machining, casting or the design of the part.
I’ll probably just drop the patterns at the foundry as they will sort all the gating and risers for me to get the best possible end product. I could make it myself, but I want to focus on quality with the motor. So I may even re do the front crankcase.
good idea simplifying the casting, I would like to see option C, followed by option B I think option C is best if you can still get video of the pour, and end up with a quality casting you know you can use the first time, that way you can make some real progress without getting bogged down
I recon you've done a great job show casing the lost foam casting method already with the other engine projects. The V4 will have plenty of other challenges along the way so don't make it harder that it needs to be. Get the prototype cases machined and focus on the other parts to make, gears, balance shafts etc. If there is some demand for the cases, maybe then look at pattern casting?
Thanks, I'm sure I don't even know what the main challenges will be yet. The only worry I have with CNC Billet cases is that I am pretty bad for over looking things, if I can get some favorable discounts from a sponsor that will be the best option. I've got a local place that are cutting the gears and do my carburising/grinding fairly cheap (around $400NZDish per gear with 4 custom module 2 gears) the shafts will be done by me in 4340. The only other thing is the line boring but I have a friend Jim helping me with that, he made a V3 750cc using RM250 cylinders you may have seen racing around Manfield years ago.
You could use 2004 cbr1000 casette, or a ducati casette will save a ton of work. Get it dynoed for mid range, top end 500cc gp bikes were tank slappers.
Doing away with the cassette isn’t about making the cassette itself. That part is easy to make. It is integrating it into the rear half of the crankcase, having a 4 piece crankcase vs 3 pieces opens up more avenues for failure. Splitting the cases shouldn’t be too bad if I incorporate an O-ring seal vs sealant.
It really depends on what your objective is and constraints are. If you just want one for yourself (and maybe a few), it's option A because you'll never beat the low weight and superior mechanical properties of wrought aluminum stock especially for only $800 because it's not like the casting cost is 0$. Besides the casting itself, it still must be machined, and it could require heat treating and have flaws or porosity. If it's simple coreless tooling, and you want to buy at least 10 or 20 castings at a time, option C. I cant imagine a production foundry wanting to cast one at a time, and you'd better consider the impact of requiring casting draft with your design. If you only want to make a few copies, and there are complex casting features that complicate tooling and you want to make
Billet seemed cheap enough and you could sell the files but I do enjoy the process of watching people make patterns and getting things cast I like all the options and I like the idea of getting to by something like this at the end 🎉
The only downside with the billet is if i make a mistake it could be a very expensive one. My educated guess would be as a running engine with a second hand gearbox it would cost around $15-20,000 NZD (If i were to sell them) with all genuine Yamaha parts and new bearings/seals. That may put people off, who knows.
@@OddsandEndsMachiningwhich gearbox are you designing the new non Cassette style cases around still the triumph bits I assume? Once the kinks are worked out and with some other decent components, 15 or so thousand for a working v4 two stroke engine I’ll be all over that 👌
It is the triumph unit. It can be found in any Daytona or the tiger with slightly closer ratios. I’m going to avoid using any Chinese parts once the prototype has been tested.
I'd enjoy seeing you doing Option B the most, it's what got me hooked to the channel after all since almost no one seems to do that kind of crazy stuff on YT, especially with the limited toolset you have... I'm not quite sure why you want to get rid of the kasett gearbox though, I have owned a SC57 Honda, it had a kasett gearbox, and I LOVED the easy access to the gearbox, you can just get to it without dropping the motor, it's such a nice feature (in Supersport bikes at least since it's such a hassle to remove the motor and split it) but I get that it's probably not necessary... however it doesn't seem to introduce that much complexity tbh, so if it's not very complicated I would keep it, especially if you're planning on selling those engines, I think it would be a huge bonus for a potential buyer if he's planning on racing these, he might need to swap the gearbox in a pinch some day.. I love the new frame btw, I'd like to hear some thoughts on the design maybe, what you changed and why :) Keep going mate ✌🏻
Thanks for the feedback. I should just do a video on explaining all of the frames I have made and the things I learnt from each one. you may have seen a sneak peak of the next frame and what the plate was for at the start of the video. The main reason to ditch the cassette is because the chance of a successful casting is a lot higher for lost foam (less over hangs) and I can't outsource getting it cast if the gearbox cavity is so deep, it would require cores and other complexities. I am against the idea of a split rear half and a cassette and a front half, four pieces seems like too many.
@OddsandEndsMachining yeah, it looks like you're going Aluminium now 😁 to be clear, for me it's not about getting done, for sure I wanna see it running some day, but the process there is what is interesting to watch... Sure I know how to mill something, but I have only rough understanding of casting, and how you mill it on this small machine ist still very interesting, there are features that require quite some precision, and how you manage to accomplish them is going to be very interesting I guess... If you see Videos of Mat Armstrong (strongly recommend) for example, it's almost never really about driving the car in the end, it's the journey there that makes up most of the story, and most of the fun of his Videos... I understand if you prefer getting it done quickly and scalable, from a content creator POV going the long route and showing everything including the struggles you had, will make much better videos if you go at it from a business view, rather take option C, it's really cheap for the work that has to be done, and your done in a couple of days :)
Thanks for the detailed reply, quite a bit to think about. I will be using the large mill at my work for some of the work required as it will be impossible to finish with only 210mm of Y axis travel.
I definitely don’t need to make progress although I am making patterns as we speak for the production version of the v twin. . . It’s actually easier than it looks (I have yet to test them though). So maybe I make some wooden patterns on my friends CNC router.
I like option C, and you can always cast some more in the future if you want (either yourself or at a foundry). Personally, I'd make proper patterns and cast them myself, but I've already got a decent sand-casting setup and the experience to pull it off. but it's not that hard, and i'd suggest that it's likely something you might want to get more into in the future. So putting the time in now and learning to make good patterns would be valuable experience (and still makes for good content!) And even if you never use those patterns again, they'd make for fantastic interior decor!
The foundry charge around $8/kg (USD) plus labour. The reason I don't want to get into sand casting myself is due to the fact i need to maintain the sand (if it's green sand) and have limited spacer to store it. I can just drop off the patterns and pick up castings at the end of the week. They will be around $450USD all ready to be heat treated . . . which will probably cost another $200-300USD depending on where I go and how long I want to wait.
@@OddsandEndsMachining The sand isn't too bad, A big sieve is all you need, and a bin with a lid to keep it in, no need for fancy mullers or anything elaborate. But at $8/Kg, you can't really beat the convenience of getting someone else to do it!!
Would like to see you make a pattern, then you can cast several attempts with less work. Why not 3dprint pieces that you screw/glue to a board? Thanks for your videos, they are informative and entertaining 😊
Thank you, I was going to make a wooden match plate with either machined MDF or 3D printed patterns. But 3D printing would save a lot of time. Hopefully it goes right on attempt number one as the foundry will cast it and hand gate it and add risers for me as I have no idea where they would need to go.
I have looked a lot at "oldfoundryguy" and have sandcasted once with 3dprinted core. Draft angle is ofcourse really important to get the core out and all the print lines will show so I used sprayfiller and paint. @@OddsandEndsMachining
"A" to get it done and prove the concept, then "C". But 3D print the molds and if you want to sell the molds, send people 3d prints so that you can still reasonably control your design. Although with 3d scanning getting better and better nothing is safe
I would only sell cast/machined cases so people can assemble their own motor. I don't like the idea of selling my IP (Files). Shipping a crankcase shouldn't be a lot more than a plastic replica of the same thing. I'd say the only thing stopping people ripping the idea off is it requires a lot of knowledge of how it all works and the set ups involved to machine/outsource/grinding/hardening of everything.
I'm guessing for it to be worth my while it would be in the $15-20k range. Most people wouldn't have the knowledge to pull it off in a cost effective manner.
Since that FXR 150 engine is almost the same as Suzuki Raider 150/Belang 150/Satria F 150 engine, they have a lot of aftermarket parts. You can even put a big bore 350cc kit in it 👀
A / B / C is irrelevant to me, I want to see you follow your heart and build a small bore V4 ... I also not so lowkey want someone to officially smash Mike Pero's 350cc land speed record, and I genuinely hope you're the bloke to do it.
I am leaning towards option A or option C. . . I will finish the conventional patterns for the production version of the Hustler V-Twin and then I'll know whats involved. . . Option A does free up a lot of time.
Mate I've been watching your progress and have a suggestion for the case. Why not go 3D printed aluminum? I have had some components printed for a motorbike project I'm working on and the results are spectacular. 3D printing is noted as stronger than casting and dimensionally far more accurate. I use a company called Craft Cloud. They are out of Germany but outsource the printing. I just had a top triple clamp printed, landed in the US for $193 usd... I had all the mounting holes printed and all I had to do was run a tap in and they treaded like is was billet. I used a code I found and got additional 10% discount. Reach out if you would like to discuss. Cheers L
Thanks for that. I've used craft cloud for some inlet manifolds and they came out at $40USD which was quite good. I will likely use them for the V4 manifolds. I priced the cases and they came out at 4x the cost of billet 6061 (I'm sure i could optimise the design and pull weight out as it is designed for casting and has minimum thicknesses to prevent freezing of molten aluminium). But I think I will just get JLCCNC to machine them if i go the CNC route.
@@OddsandEndsMachining I totally get your thinking. If you have a cnc machine shop able to machine the components at a reasonable cost, then I too would go that way. I've been kicking around a 500 V2 two stroke for a while, reminiscent of the Honda NSR's and build a frame around it. So I'm on the edge of my seat for your next video. I do love our Kiwi ingenuity even though I now live in the States. Had one question, how did you come up with your dimensions for the gearbox, and what make of gear set are you using? I was thinking to get the dimensions correct, I'd have to use and existing case halves and it done on a CMM... your thoughts. Cheers mate!
There's already too many of the 'look at the crazy thing I built' channels where they gloss over the actual build and design choices they made to get there, that being said you don't need to make 50 lost foam casting videos that take a lot of time to make
I wish, I don’t think buckets have been allowed there for a while. We races at Manfield on the Back Track, they don’t need track protection either which is a bonus.
@OddsandEndsMachining right. Cheers man, I'll keep any eye open. If the wind is blowing in the right direction, sometime I can Manfield from my place, I'm just outta palmy, towards Newbury. Stockcars were loud tonight, could hear them clear as
As much as I love the machining videos, If I were in your shoes I'd go with option A. Life is too short to be spending months of work to save a few $. A high quality product for $800 is a good deal. Grab it. Making a wooden mold isn't worth it. You can sell 3D printable models for people to use to cast their own if you want to recover some costs. It is a niche market anyway.
I definitely know that time is of the essence and projects can drag on a bit. If I can keep my previous video sponsors on board I will probably get them to do it. That’s an interesting spin on it, I what the market for something like this would be. The only downside to selling files is they are uncontrolled once they leave my PC.
If I lost foam cast I will still be sending all the parts out for heat treatment, so the only way to avoid heat treatment will be to get them made from billet. The foundry poured my first part in an lm25 equivalent so it should heat treatment quite well.
It is legitimate foundry that I used, that’s all they do is cast aluminium. They are near my house which makes them handy. I even have the print out with the material composition.
1st - A - Quick proof of concept (rapid prototype) 2nd - B - Improvements from first attempt, you get to have fun and we get to watch 3rd - C - Go into manufacturing if there’s demand and recoup some money
You can run the 112cc Athena cylinders and cranks making it 450cc . . . I chose 350cc because I want to enjoy riding it and have a realistic gauge on my riding ability. It will probably still make more power than an rz/rg500 as a 350 and as a 450 it will be a bit of a handful. I like the idea of similar power to a stock 600cc bike but with 30-40kg less weight.
Option B or C please, most entertaining and educational
i think the wooden plug idea will be best in terms of quality and content. especially if the foundry up the road lets you get some footage. and if the project is really good as you said you could repeat and sell them
B, I'm here on your channel for the home Foundry & machine work.
Being a wood guy option C sounds most entertaining to me, plus I have only seen your lost foam casting videos so far. Mint content so far 👌
Definitely option B or C!
C please 👍 Time isn’t the problem for us viewers, especially as you have other things going on in between. I’ve probably got a 6speed nsr250 cassette g/box lying around if you want one (not sure what postage is from the UK…)😂👍
I appreciate the offer, I’ve got a spare RGV cassette in my drawer. The idea of getting rid of the cassette is to make casting the engine easier. I’m not worried about the machining, casting or the design of the part.
You know what I'm gonna pick, option B 😁 or you could make the wood patterns, make the mold, and cast it at home?
I’ll probably just drop the patterns at the foundry as they will sort all the gating and risers for me to get the best possible end product. I could make it myself, but I want to focus on quality with the motor. So I may even re do the front crankcase.
good idea simplifying the casting, I would like to see option C, followed by option B
I think option C is best if you can still get video of the pour, and end up with a quality casting you know you can use the first time, that way you can make some real progress without getting bogged down
option A and C of course:)
I recon you've done a great job show casing the lost foam casting method already with the other engine projects. The V4 will have plenty of other challenges along the way so don't make it harder that it needs to be. Get the prototype cases machined and focus on the other parts to make, gears, balance shafts etc. If there is some demand for the cases, maybe then look at pattern casting?
Thanks, I'm sure I don't even know what the main challenges will be yet. The only worry I have with CNC Billet cases is that I am pretty bad for over looking things, if I can get some favorable discounts from a sponsor that will be the best option. I've got a local place that are cutting the gears and do my carburising/grinding fairly cheap (around $400NZDish per gear with 4 custom module 2 gears) the shafts will be done by me in 4340. The only other thing is the line boring but I have a friend Jim helping me with that, he made a V3 750cc using RM250 cylinders you may have seen racing around Manfield years ago.
Option A, to prove the concept and get it running. For the next version you can ask the same question again 🙂
Go for c its alot of work if you mess up the pour on a lost foam. Which is why I 3d print a pattern and sand cast now.
It all comes down to your time and money
Id say
A for timing - get it done
B for content - us
C for $ if you've got buyers
Just pay to have it cast, might as well get it done and listen to the sweet sweet v4 rumble.
I'd say it would sound more like angry wasps. That's looking to be the best option.
You could use 2004 cbr1000 casette, or a ducati casette will save a ton of work.
Get it dynoed for mid range, top end 500cc gp bikes were tank slappers.
Doing away with the cassette isn’t about making the cassette itself. That part is easy to make. It is integrating it into the rear half of the crankcase, having a 4 piece crankcase vs 3 pieces opens up more avenues for failure. Splitting the cases shouldn’t be too bad if I incorporate an O-ring seal vs sealant.
It really depends on what your objective is and constraints are. If you just want one for yourself (and maybe a few), it's option A because you'll never beat the low weight and superior mechanical properties of wrought aluminum stock especially for only $800 because it's not like the casting cost is 0$. Besides the casting itself, it still must be machined, and it could require heat treating and have flaws or porosity. If it's simple coreless tooling, and you want to buy at least 10 or 20 castings at a time, option C. I cant imagine a production foundry wanting to cast one at a time, and you'd better consider the impact of requiring casting draft with your design. If you only want to make a few copies, and there are complex casting features that complicate tooling and you want to make
Billet seemed cheap enough and you could sell the files but I do enjoy the process of watching people make patterns and getting things cast I like all the options and I like the idea of getting to by something like this at the end 🎉
The only downside with the billet is if i make a mistake it could be a very expensive one. My educated guess would be as a running engine with a second hand gearbox it would cost around $15-20,000 NZD (If i were to sell them) with all genuine Yamaha parts and new bearings/seals. That may put people off, who knows.
@@OddsandEndsMachiningwhich gearbox are you designing the new non Cassette style cases around still the triumph bits I assume? Once the kinks are worked out and with some other decent components, 15 or so thousand for a working v4 two stroke engine I’ll be all over that 👌
It is the triumph unit. It can be found in any Daytona or the tiger with slightly closer ratios. I’m going to avoid using any Chinese parts once the prototype has been tested.
Sick shirt. If you know, you know 😌😂
Gotta save up for these projects somehow haha
I'd enjoy seeing you doing Option B the most, it's what got me hooked to the channel after all since almost no one seems to do that kind of crazy stuff on YT, especially with the limited toolset you have... I'm not quite sure why you want to get rid of the kasett gearbox though, I have owned a SC57 Honda, it had a kasett gearbox, and I LOVED the easy access to the gearbox, you can just get to it without dropping the motor, it's such a nice feature (in Supersport bikes at least since it's such a hassle to remove the motor and split it) but I get that it's probably not necessary... however it doesn't seem to introduce that much complexity tbh, so if it's not very complicated I would keep it, especially if you're planning on selling those engines, I think it would be a huge bonus for a potential buyer if he's planning on racing these, he might need to swap the gearbox in a pinch some day..
I love the new frame btw, I'd like to hear some thoughts on the design maybe, what you changed and why :)
Keep going mate ✌🏻
Thanks for the feedback. I should just do a video on explaining all of the frames I have made and the things I learnt from each one. you may have seen a sneak peak of the next frame and what the plate was for at the start of the video.
The main reason to ditch the cassette is because the chance of a successful casting is a lot higher for lost foam (less over hangs) and I can't outsource getting it cast if the gearbox cavity is so deep, it would require cores and other complexities. I am against the idea of a split rear half and a cassette and a front half, four pieces seems like too many.
@OddsandEndsMachining yeah, it looks like you're going Aluminium now 😁
to be clear, for me it's not about getting done, for sure I wanna see it running some day, but the process there is what is interesting to watch... Sure I know how to mill something, but I have only rough understanding of casting, and how you mill it on this small machine ist still very interesting, there are features that require quite some precision, and how you manage to accomplish them is going to be very interesting I guess... If you see Videos of Mat Armstrong (strongly recommend) for example, it's almost never really about driving the car in the end, it's the journey there that makes up most of the story, and most of the fun of his Videos...
I understand if you prefer getting it done quickly and scalable, from a content creator POV going the long route and showing everything including the struggles you had, will make much better videos
if you go at it from a business view, rather take option C, it's really cheap for the work that has to be done, and your done in a couple of days :)
Thanks for the detailed reply, quite a bit to think about.
I will be using the large mill at my work for some of the work required as it will be impossible to finish with only 210mm of Y axis travel.
I'd like to see option B or C. I'd understand if you need to go with A to make progress though.
I definitely don’t need to make progress although I am making patterns as we speak for the production version of the v twin. . . It’s actually easier than it looks (I have yet to test them though). So maybe I make some wooden patterns on my friends CNC router.
A then C if all is well 👍
I like option C, and you can always cast some more in the future if you want (either yourself or at a foundry). Personally, I'd make proper patterns and cast them myself, but I've already got a decent sand-casting setup and the experience to pull it off. but it's not that hard, and i'd suggest that it's likely something you might want to get more into in the future. So putting the time in now and learning to make good patterns would be valuable experience (and still makes for good content!)
And even if you never use those patterns again, they'd make for fantastic interior decor!
The foundry charge around $8/kg (USD) plus labour. The reason I don't want to get into sand casting myself is due to the fact i need to maintain the sand (if it's green sand) and have limited spacer to store it. I can just drop off the patterns and pick up castings at the end of the week. They will be around $450USD all ready to be heat treated . . . which will probably cost another $200-300USD depending on where I go and how long I want to wait.
@@OddsandEndsMachining The sand isn't too bad, A big sieve is all you need, and a bin with a lid to keep it in, no need for fancy mullers or anything elaborate. But at $8/Kg, you can't really beat the convenience of getting someone else to do it!!
Would like to see you make a pattern, then you can cast several attempts with less work. Why not 3dprint pieces that you screw/glue to a board?
Thanks for your videos, they are informative and entertaining 😊
Thank you, I was going to make a wooden match plate with either machined MDF or 3D printed patterns. But 3D printing would save a lot of time.
Hopefully it goes right on attempt number one as the foundry will cast it and hand gate it and add risers for me as I have no idea where they would need to go.
I have looked a lot at "oldfoundryguy" and have sandcasted once with 3dprinted core. Draft angle is ofcourse really important to get the core out and all the print lines will show so I used sprayfiller and paint. @@OddsandEndsMachining
"A" to get it done and prove the concept, then "C". But 3D print the molds and if you want to sell the molds, send people 3d prints so that you can still reasonably control your design. Although with 3d scanning getting better and better nothing is safe
I would only sell cast/machined cases so people can assemble their own motor. I don't like the idea of selling my IP (Files). Shipping a crankcase shouldn't be a lot more than a plastic replica of the same thing. I'd say the only thing stopping people ripping the idea off is it requires a lot of knowledge of how it all works and the set ups involved to machine/outsource/grinding/hardening of everything.
Option B and/or C. Option A would be for the impatient or someone with only a computer and without you're shop and experience.
Option B. You could flog those cases as well, probably for similar money
I do wonder what something like this would be worth. Or if there would be any demand.
@ when you get down to it there probably aren’t that many interested in the work involved, and with cost of a complete engine even less
I'm guessing for it to be worth my while it would be in the $15-20k range. Most people wouldn't have the knowledge to pull it off in a cost effective manner.
Since that FXR 150 engine is almost the same as Suzuki Raider 150/Belang 150/Satria F 150 engine, they have a lot of aftermarket parts. You can even put a big bore 350cc kit in it 👀
That would be a handful with 12" wheels
C please, a balance between more interest (B) and the sense you'd like to move on a bit quicker.
Option A to get it tested and working quicker, figure the mistakes in the design early so you can get on with improvements faster.
And also a tasty beverage.
Option A to prove concept now then Option c to sell cases in longterm.
A / B / C is irrelevant to me, I want to see you follow your heart and build a small bore V4 ... I also not so lowkey want someone to officially smash Mike Pero's 350cc land speed record, and I genuinely hope you're the bloke to do it.
Thank you. It hadn’t even crossed my mind but it sounds like a worthy use for this engine when it is eventually running.
Pattern, conventional sand casting and machine it up
I am leaning towards option A or option C. . . I will finish the conventional patterns for the production version of the Hustler V-Twin and then I'll know whats involved. . . Option A does free up a lot of time.
Mate I've been watching your progress and have a suggestion for the case. Why not go 3D printed aluminum? I have had some components printed for a motorbike project I'm working on and the results are spectacular. 3D printing is noted as stronger than casting and dimensionally far more accurate. I use a company called Craft Cloud. They are out of Germany but outsource the printing. I just had a top triple clamp printed, landed in the US for $193 usd... I had all the mounting holes printed and all I had to do was run a tap in and they treaded like is was billet. I used a code I found and got additional 10% discount. Reach out if you would like to discuss.
Cheers
L
Thanks for the heads up on craft cloud
Thanks for that. I've used craft cloud for some inlet manifolds and they came out at $40USD which was quite good. I will likely use them for the V4 manifolds. I priced the cases and they came out at 4x the cost of billet 6061 (I'm sure i could optimise the design and pull weight out as it is designed for casting and has minimum thicknesses to prevent freezing of molten aluminium). But I think I will just get JLCCNC to machine them if i go the CNC route.
@@OddsandEndsMachining I totally get your thinking. If you have a cnc machine shop able to machine the components at a reasonable cost, then I too would go that way. I've been kicking around a 500 V2 two stroke for a while, reminiscent of the Honda NSR's and build a frame around it. So I'm on the edge of my seat for your next video. I do love our Kiwi ingenuity even though I now live in the States. Had one question, how did you come up with your dimensions for the gearbox, and what make of gear set are you using? I was thinking to get the dimensions correct, I'd have to use and existing case halves and it done on a CMM... your thoughts. Cheers mate!
Gotta be C!!!
All of the above, except D
There's already too many of the 'look at the crazy thing I built' channels where they gloss over the actual build and design choices they made to get there, that being said you don't need to make 50 lost foam casting videos that take a lot of time to make
I’ll try to get more into the considerations of why I’m doing things as I go instead of at the end.
How about 3D printing your pattern? Much easier to do a revision then re print, re mould, re cast.
I will see how many hours of printing it will take, making them from wood on a rigid router shouldn’t take too long.
B or C please.
So ummm, with me finding out last video that you're in the manawatu, would I be guessing right that you ride these out at sheriff's road Go cart track
I wish, I don’t think buckets have been allowed there for a while. We races at Manfield on the Back Track, they don’t need track protection either which is a bonus.
@OddsandEndsMachining right. Cheers man, I'll keep any eye open. If the wind is blowing in the right direction, sometime I can Manfield from my place, I'm just outta palmy, towards Newbury. Stockcars were loud tonight, could hear them clear as
B
As much as I love the machining videos, If I were in your shoes I'd go with option A. Life is too short to be spending months of work to save a few $. A high quality product for $800 is a good deal. Grab it.
Making a wooden mold isn't worth it. You can sell 3D printable models for people to use to cast their own if you want to recover some costs. It is a niche market anyway.
I definitely know that time is of the essence and projects can drag on a bit. If I can keep my previous video sponsors on board I will probably get them to do it.
That’s an interesting spin on it, I what the market for something like this would be. The only downside to selling files is they are uncontrolled once they leave my PC.
the foundry company allows heat treatment.
cast aluminum without heat treatment does not have many mechanical qualities
If I lost foam cast I will still be sending all the parts out for heat treatment, so the only way to avoid heat treatment will be to get them made from billet. The foundry poured my first part in an lm25 equivalent so it should heat treatment quite well.
@OddsandEndsMachining often home foundries are refused in heat treatment.
for the reason that the composition of the alloy is too random
It is legitimate foundry that I used, that’s all they do is cast aluminium. They are near my house which makes them handy. I even have the print out with the material composition.
@@OddsandEndsMachining It's when you melt recovered aluminum at home that companies don't want to do heat treatment.
1st - A - Quick proof of concept (rapid prototype)
2nd - B - Improvements from first attempt, you get to have fun and we get to watch
3rd - C - Go into manufacturing if there’s demand and recoup some money
so much work for only 350cc ? 4x 150 cc would be much more entertaining and a lot more interesting to buy.
You can run the 112cc Athena cylinders and cranks making it 450cc . . . I chose 350cc because I want to enjoy riding it and have a realistic gauge on my riding ability. It will probably still make more power than an rz/rg500 as a 350 and as a 450 it will be a bit of a handful. I like the idea of similar power to a stock 600cc bike but with 30-40kg less weight.