Sheathing my house roof today. Man today is going to be brutal. Dude it only would have taken an extra 15 minutes to hit those sheets with the nail gun. On another note I hate how the wet weather always shows up when I'm working with osb
I know, right?! For us, we were fortunate to get off the roof alive because it was snowing so bad when we were trying to wrap up. We had to literally sweep a path back to the eave so we could climb down the ladder before sliding off. It was well after dark by that point, and my main helper friend injured his knees, so we had no other option but to quit for the night and figure it out the next day. But the snow just kept coming, and coming, and the rest is history. How'd your roofing job go? I certainly hope better than mine ;)
@@TomWylie still going strong, getting ready to head out to Home Depot to buy the last 12 sheets, felt paper and the nails with the the orange caps. With my continued luck it rained this past Wednesday so naturally it was a mess. Didn't really get to start it when I wanted but we put up 60 sheets yesterday and going to dry it in today. Next I gotta price out shingles, buy a nail gun for that and of course watch RUclips videos on shingling.
I agree to the nail gun and like you I always get the wet weather too, when they call for sun and instead we get rain, snow and heck I think Fire and Brimstone!!! LOL!!!
Awesome video. So glad there are people out there like this guy who are not ashamed to help others by sharing their mistakes. These are the best learning videos.
I applaud Tom for his bravery and humility in posting this video. I have made many mistakes and I'm not sure I'd be thick-skinned enough to post a video about what I could do better next time. I certainly don't believe I'm in a spot to call someone a "bozo", or a "cheapo", or anything else like that, especially when I'm not posting videos. Good on ya, Tom!
Nicholas Browning THANK YOU! I appreciate your kind words, and your understanding the spirit in which I posted this video. You get bonus commenter points! :D
I could not agree more! As somebody who is aware of how easy it is to make mistakes, I have a question I trust you folks may be able to answer . . . I'm looking to use box profile steel sheets on a similar building (pitch etc. is different). I've come across a plastisol and PVC coating options at www.roofingmegastore.co.uk/roofing-categories/pitched-roofing/roofing-sheets/box-profile-sheets.html , which seem to simply offer greater durability. Do you have any preference on which you would choose? Thanks!
1/8 inch are for expansion and not for soak wet OSB. Even if you space evenly according to the recommendation, it would still buckle if wet. Keep it dry is the key.
Our lead framer told us about a time when they putting down the plywood on the roof and tacking them in place. The new guy had the job of coming right behind and nailing it off. After it was down, he noticed that only the first few sheets had nails in them. The young guy thought they came through the hose. The story has provided much laughter over the years, but it did save money on nails.
@@Eastbaypisces just putting the plywood sheets in place and driving a couple nails to secure them. Usually one guy with a nail gun can keep up with two guys fitting the pieces and cutting and making sure it is all on layout. The edges get nailed about 6 inches and the middle rafters at 12 inches apart.
Use a circular saw with an 1/8" blade and cut between the sheets of sheathing. Should give adequate room to nail down those waves. And I agree that 5/8" sheathing is preferable.
I’m not reading through all the comments to see if someone said or not, but a 16 penny nail tapped in a couple of places provides the correct spacing. When done, you can pull your nails and keep using them to space with.
>>>>PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE COMMENTING: This is a structure that is being built with an absolute minimal budget. Our county doesn't have ANY building codes, and I have several local builders I consulted with before and during construction, who agreed that the materials & techniques used are adequate for the intended purpose of this structure. It's built on shipping containers that are sitting on top of 6x6 timbers for a foundation. Just something to get us by till we can afford to invest more into a "proper" shop building. We haven't even built our house yet (saving up for that) and my family of 5 is living in 400 sq ft of temporary living quarters. Some of us have to choose where to make some trade offs in order to invest in other things that we put more value in. :) The problems discussed in the video have since been corrected (very easily-we cut a double saw kerf down the middle of each high spot & nailed it back down.), and the rest of the roof was completed using H-clips and proper spacing & nailing. I'll upload more videos showing the corrections made, and more details of this build as time allows. (NOTE: Although it's hard to see in the video, the OSB sheets ARE staggered correctly the way they are supposed to be. Anyone who comments on that from here on out obviously didn't read this comment. :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yea and the assessment value from your County Assessors office reflects the decreased values in your county due to NO BUIDING CODES. Might as well live in Lehigh County Florida. They botched it from the very start.
I read it, could have spaced them with a couple loose ring 8's near the rafters and just used plywood. Osb on a roof? What are you some sort of savage? Geez guy, lol! It appears to be a bit short on the pitch for all that snow and 2x4 trusses. Nice work though, I'm glad you were able to fix it. Did you bitch that roof or run tar paper? Asphaualt shingles or metal panel finish?
You can add the expansion joint back in by just running a saw down the seam setting the depth to the osb thickness. I agree with others that just nailing down the bulges and letting it dry will fix those. They make osb with different levels of waterproofness. The least waterproof stuff is what you commonly see though because it costs less.
I want to thank you for being-candid in your video. I have needed a new roof I built 20 some odd years ago for the porch I built. I finally decided to do the research and I am going to use OSB. Sons are helping me (Mum) to re do it (they don't know it yet)! I am so glad you pointed out your mistakes or your families. I will be viewing more vid's. Thank you.
Man o man so glad you informed me that you should nail it all the way down and not let it get wet. I was about to leave mine in the rain and snow for couple weeks. GREAT TIP....
Nobody's perfect! Those that think they're untouchable are fooling themselves. Every project I've ever done has something that I would've done differently. You live (and work) and learn. Great project-
Great Video... Thank you for posting this... I'm getting ready to build a 40 x 60 shop and if I had not seen this video I could have made the same mistake... So now you know this video prevented another person from making the same mistake...
About to do my shed roof this weekend. I'm going to buy a bag of those galvanized sheathing clips that ensure proper spacing and help me remember to do it.
Use plywood clips (H clips) the next time you sheathe a roof, by using them it gives you your 1/8 in spacing and makes the joint between sheets stronger in the area between trusses.
I really like these videos, it sucks about your. Waste and cost, but we can all learn something from this. Im in the stages of planning to build a house and all this info is gold
Tarp it Tarp it Tarp it. Never let osb get wet if you can avoid it. Especially with snow sitting on it. I have 37 years as a GC and have had issues like yours in the past.
Thanks Jack. Yeah I definitely learned that with this project. :) We’ve now got the rest of this shop roof sheeted & tar papered. The office room that I show in the video now has rafters up too, with a tarp over them to let the subfloor start to dry out. What part of the country are you in?
Once the first two rows of plywood or OSB are nailed on somebody should be starting to put the paper on and follow you up the roof. Get it all done at the same time. 2 guys nailing plywood, 2 guys rolling paper. Staple it well, It'll shoot out from under you if you don't. Especially the thinner 15lb stuff. Sucks to bust your ass carrying a load of shingles because the paper slipped, sucks even more to go off the edge. Of course this works best with an experienced crew...I know it's hard to do with friends, and family unfamiliar with the tools. At the end of the day, when you're all tired and sore take a couple of "I-be-roofin" tablets.
Ican'tSignIn.... ......Start your paper at the top, then underlay the next roll. Use button tab nails. I will never stand on tar paper ever again. If it's gonna remain exposed to the wind and rain for awhile - nail down some 2 by 4 cleats over the paper from ridge to eave. You can tar the nail holes in later if you're finicky. I want some of those I-be-roofin's !
I-be-roofin....Extra Strength Tired-n-all...or plain ol' Ass-sprain...take your pick. We get paid by the job, not by the hour so, quick, quick, quick. (But properly, by 30-40 year vets). I see what you're saying but then shingles can't start until ALL the paper is on. We start paper at the bottom so the shinglers can get going right away Standing around for 5 minutes is a couple of bundles not getting put on. We usually don't even break for lunch because it's too hard to get started again, but it depends on the heat..we'll stop a bit to regroup between tear-off and putting it back on. We use the Stinger staple guns with the plastic caps and we try to never leave paper exposed. Even the morning dew will wrinkle the hell out of your paper. The steeper it is the more staples in the paper. We like to get it all done the same day. If it's a big roof that will take two days,(churches just love tall and steep) we only tear half off the first day, complete that side up to the ridge and cover the ridge with paper, next day, do the other side and ridge it. We tarp the ground around the house where we're working. End of the day we do the FOD walk and leave no trace. . Start tearing off at first light, back at the shop having a drink, sitting in the pool by 1 o'clock. BTW...if you haven't tried those Cougar Paw boots you're missing out. Replaceable interchangeable soles. Different ones depending on what surface you're working on. Make you feel like Spiderman on those steep ones.. I got mine several years ago and they hold up well.
I been a professional builder in the Colorado Rockies and I’ve never had a problem with osb but what I do is paint the floor deck with white sealing paint which greatly helps water proofing, snapping chalk lines and cleanup.
Power Wagon THANK YOU.....I am “discussing” this with my husband right now. He says not necessary. I say so what. I want it. Also, I want plywood, maybe treated plywood. He says, unnecessary cost. We have had trouble with this roof because we live close to a heavily wooded area. Raccoons, skunks, squirrels and a opossum have gotten into the roof by “chewing” through the roofing. The tree they were climbing to get to the roof is now gone. Please advise. BTW we live in the upper part of the Michigan Mitten. Not the U.P.
@@justinepeabody4534 Sounds like you need a metal roof, instead of a wooden one. A metal roof and metal siding will also protect from forest fires. And you need to do some pest control, by shooting all the pests.
You can even use 8penny nails. H clips are cheap enough tho. The biggest problem here was, they didnt plan for weather and sheeted more than they could get covered. Under the top of the roof, you can fix the warped wood with blocking, nailed in w framing nails and back to the top to nail it in. You Must cover plywood or OSB with either felt paper or weather barrier or they will both come unglued and warp realllll quick too
Agreed we learn from our mistakes. But, I truly cannot afford more mistakes at this point. However, all these nice people sharing everything from pro tips to amateur mistakes is so helpful. And all the comments as well. Just a Godsend. Truly.
I wouldn't have thought the gap spacing was to accommodate that exposure; just for dry temperature expansion/contraction and humidity, not wet. Excellent video/pointing correlation.
Yes, it should have had spacing. But shit happens. Don't waste time and material. Run a circular saw down the seam and screw down the bow. She'll be fine.
Thanks to ALL who shared excellent tips! I'd have to say I agree with P Dan's comment. Know what the weather will be and plan accordingly. If wet weather is unavoidable, cover your sheets so that water can run off. Snap lines for nailing if you (like me ;)) lack that skill. Use spacers to allow for expansion! Stagger the sheets to add strength (I assume this helps even more in earthquake and snow areas, but not sure how much it helps in hurricane/tornado areas). Tips we all Know or Should Know: "A Job Well-Planned, is a Job 1/2 Done"..."Haste makes Waste"..."Measure Twice - Cut Once"..."Complacency leads to Injury"..."If you Don't Know, ASK (thank you RUclips)!"
Good of you to make this video! Sometimes people need to see something to fully appreciate it! I've been a carpenter for 35 years and I've gotten to the point where I just pass on jobs that include any OSB, particle board - including cabinets, MDF, or vinyl siding. My advice to customers is to concentrate on quality materials and sacrifice some square footage to pay for it.
Michael G. Gartman, I've been a cabinetmaker for 35 years. I think there is a place for MDF and Particle board, you just have to know where to use them. I will agree that plywood is a better sheathing than OSB. There is even an exterior grade MDF called Extira or Medex. There is also an industrial grad of particle board, it's much better than the garden variety used for underlayment sold in big box stores.
tom ruth I hear you and I understand what you are saying. I just prefer to pass on "budget" materials because I can make more money working for customers that share my view of using only top quality materials. Most of the homes I work on are in coastal zones and we just don't use OSB, particle board, MDF, Masonite, etc. It's just not allowed by many of the better engineers. I've also done more than my fair share of home renovations and I've seen firsthand which materials hold up and which ones break down and under what circumstances.
tom ruth I hear you and I understand what you are saying. I just prefer to pass on "budget" materials because I can make more money working for customers that share my view of using only top quality materials. Most of the homes I work on are in coastal zones and we just don't use OSB, particle board, MDF, Masonite, etc. It's just not allowed by many of the better engineers. I've also done more than my fair share of home renovations and I've seen firsthand which materials hold up and which ones break down and under what circumstances.
Well I understand older generations of osb were crap and you can still buy cheap garbage but I challenge you to get one sheet of plytanium and tell me it isn't a quality product it bends nails every so often because it's so hard.
Thanks Martin! I'm gradually getting a little bit more time to make videos. Every new improvement on the property frees me up just a little bit more so I can get further out of bare-bones "survival mode" :) This early blast of winter weather really hit us hard since we weren't ready for it yet. Thankful for a brief break now though, so we're tackling projects as fast as we can! Hope you guys are doing well!
Always use metal panel clips/spacers on decking. Stagger your courses and never use OSB if you can afford CDX plywood. Felt it or tarp OSB, always, once it is soaked, it will delaminate.Not fastening the entire sheet while your there is inefficient and could be deadly, if a sheet slides.
Remember, good workers aren't cheap and cheap workers aren't good. Not sure why you use sheathing on a roof frame if you are going to have a metal roof? Just battern and screw the sheets to the batterns
props for admitting mistakes. happen sometimes. OSB is a garbage product in the first place. standard ply was always comparible to osb, then the codes changed (in my area anyway). so osb drove prices of standard plywood up. and of course everyone wants cheap.. slap sheathing down, nail it off, take pics of spacing, 18th inch gap, cover it with paper and walk away.. people build houses to sell them within a few years. nobody wants to live a lifetime in a house because we all want to turn it for profits... if youre going to build a house, build it the right way.
Everytime I see new house being build using sob I knew they’re cheaping out and cut corner. It’s easy to know which home builders that does it too because they’re the ones the copy and paste same designs for every houses and they’re focus mostly on quantity . On the other hand the one the use plywood are not so popular because they’re probably cost more and their designs are different
That’s why I hate OSB and prefer CDX but if I think it’s gonna rain or snow I put the shiny side up and use the spacing clips. Helps for joint strength as well.
Ron Ball That’s exactly what I’m insinuating and 20 years mitigation experience and over 1000 attics treated have proven this out. OSB has a higher sugars content and when it gets moldy it is far more likely to become structurally compromised as the mold eats the binder glue.
@@EnderlePropertyService LOL...WOW Ive heard a lot of crazy shit in my life having been a carpenter since 1985, but that's a good one! Sugar content? Every single piece of a house frame is made from pine of some kind of configuration. I'm sure all framing lumber has a certain "sugar" content, but sugar making mold grown... really dude..Mold will grow on any surface, anytime the conditions and moisture are right. OSB is far more structural then conventional ply both horizontal and vertically. Standard ply is crap now and has been for the last 20 years. It de laminates and waves when wet, and makes siding look like shit. Save the "Sugar" comment for your dumb ass client that would believe that line...LMAO!!!!
Ron Ball Are you actually familiar with OSB? It’s wood chips and glue. It’s the glue that has the sugar content the mold eats. Once that glue is compromised...which mold will do all the way through far faster than plywood, the material rapidly loses structural integrity. Mold tends to grow on the surface of plywood and thus maintains its integrity far longer because once have breakthrough of the initial top layer, yiu have more layers underneath. Tell you what, take two pieces of sheathing, OSB and Plywood. Put them outside in the rain oriented horizontally, let mold grow on the underside. Come back in a year. Tell me which one has better structural integrity. You might build them, but I’m the one who treats them when they actually ARE moldy. The vast majority of roofs with advanced mold growth with plywood sheathing are getting treated and saved. The roofs with advanced growth and OSB sheathing are getting torn off and replaced.
interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out backyard storage sheds plans try *WoodBlueprints. Com* Ive heard some decent things about it and my colleague got cool success with it.
I'm a fibre glass roofer from Ireland where we get tons of rain every day. You must cover your roof with plastic until you apply the covering. I can usually do about 70sqm of fibre glassing in a day with two men. The key is a dry deck.
Yes, I've learned over the years; don't sheath a roof you can't cover with tar paper or a tarp almost immediately, because surprise rain events will ruin your project.
OSB= Owner Saving Bucks! I built my house in 1995 and I put 1/2" plywood all the way around my house and 5/8" plywood on the roof. It was twice as much as OSB but you get what you pay for. Cheap can be expensive!
Dude just cut around the sheets, the saw blade is enough to relieve the stress, always try to nail and cover any exposed sheething, plywood swells just as bad, and dont blame others, everyone should have helped nail the sheets
Don’t worry about a thing with Zip system roof sheathing and the sheet price is the same as OSB. It’s also warranty for 30 years exposed, I will never do a roof with osb maybe floor sheathing but not roof or walls. I use to do this on the daily for 12 years. Zip system is the way to go!! Hope this helps with future projects.
It's real simple. The APA rated OSB and plywood has an APA trademark. Go to their website, login, download the installation instructions for every panel made for the North American market... And yeah, it has spacing listed... They recommend a 10D common nail, 0.125 thick... Plus they have fastener spacing.
Vancouver Island Waterjet ok the clips only work for the two side edges not on the toung or groove side. Really he should have tarped it off real good before letting it sit all season with snow on it. If he would have taken a few minutes to protect the osb he would have never had that problem.
Vancouver Island Waterjet i agree the clips would have done absolutely nothing , neither would spacing the osb . So let me take back my original statement of " should have used sheathing clips" and change it to " should have tarped it off before it got buried in snow for six months "
Vancouver Island Waterjet unfortunately shit construction is what we build here in the good ol U.S.A. anymore . The bulders and developers work fast here. They can flaten level and clear a site and build at least 20 dr. Seuss houses on it in less than a week. Forget about durability and integrity when they can save a penny by useing shit materials. Then you have people that misuse a shit product like this guy did. So in reality the end product isnt much better than the material used. Your right the clips are shit too,
in my part of the country, Southeast, the code is to use clips for spacing when you put the sheating down. Also nailing is required every six inches. Also, as soon as the OSB is down installed the felt paper
Being your project you should have been keeping a close eye on all your workers. If you were the Foreman you should have said something. It's your own fault.
I’m sorry, did it sound like I was passing the buck? If this was a job for a client, I would have handled things WAY differently and this would have never happened. I explained in the video how my brother was volunteering & there were also other factors involved in my not getting back to it before I did. It’s my roof, my problem. I fixed it and it’s fine now. I posted this video to help those who could learn from it, not so people could beat me up for it.
everybody makes mistakes and its also an easy fix. im sure theham staa is a pro at roofing and never made any mistakes. ;D this is a good video to learn from without ourselves having to learn it the hard way, thanks
Way too late now, of course, but, just saw along the 'peaks' of all the bubbling. Then nail down. Tarpaper or whatever other covering you are using. Then the metal roof. No strength lost. No having to tear up and replace panels. It's the same as if you had used smaller panels, cut to those dimensions.
That's ridiculous. They've used OSB on roofs for decades, and the roofs are no problem. If you OSB, tar paper and shingle a roof and it gets wet, you did something wrong. Go spend the extra money for plywood on your own roof if it makes you happy.
Have to say it’s more stable than ply on a roof if put on properly. Leave any sheet material on a roof or siding exposed for any length of time and you will have a mess like this.
Plywood wood will quickly delaminate if left out in the open long enough. 3/4 inch OSB 3 should only be used to deck a roof. It's far more stable than ply. It just swells when wet but dries out fine. I do alot of fibre glass roofing and OSB 3 is the only deck I use.
I just hope I find good people like you to do my roof. I'm gonna pray on that one! *the ply was not nailed down proper.* oh not good! LOL great to see your video cuz I'm about to have a new roof put on!
I am sorry that this happened to you guys and thank you for sharing. Should be a warning for all of us DIY to be more careful. Probably using Zip System roofing panels would have mitigate or avoided the problem. back in 2017 they were not much more expensive than regular OSB.
#1. There is no such thing as "sheeting." The word you are looking for is sheathing. You are sheathing the roof, not "sheeting" the roof. This morning we will sheathe the wall, not "sheet" the wall. #2. You are not using plywood clips on your roof sheathing. #3. Do not accept advice from this guy about framing and sheathing, because he will screw you up.
First of all its called sheeting by almost everyone and their mother who has ever done this unless you want to be super technical about shit then yes. Yes he didn't use clips big deal. And yes this guy does give out some good advice. If you wanted to nit pick you should of said how he needed to use 5/8 OSB nail every 6 inches on the border of the sheets and every foot everywhere else. May I add one more thing? Being an ass won't get you anywhere.
You sound like a jackass saying sheeting. Someone says sheathing, and the aforementioned jackass thinks they heard the word sheeting. Its sheathing, from the word sheathe. Framing, sheathing and nails combined give a house its structural integrity. In Florida they call it decking. Roof decking, we have to deck the roof, framers and deckers wanted. As for plywood clips on the roof sheathing, building code may require them. Also, if they had used plywood clips on the roof sheathing, that OSB wouldn't have buckled. One can certainly sheathe a roof with 1/2 inch OSB, builders do it every day. Furthermore, nail off patterns depend on building codes. Also, may I finish with this sir? Donald J. Trump is the biggest ass that ever drew breath, and it got him all the way to the white house.
Ummmmmm.... WTF? Do you not have a building code where you live? Building inspectors? I understand between Canada and wherever you are may be different, but I highly highly doubt 1/2 inch OSB and no H clips is legal anywhere. All I see from the beginning to end of this video is building code infractions one after another. In Manitoba if you tried what you are doing the local building inspector would have you in court. Learn what you are doing, please. I don't give that mess 10 years before it collapses.
I shingled for 25 years, no, it's not. I never once in those years clad a roof in OSB regardless of code and refused to shingle for any homebuilder that did. Any carpenter worth the name uses plywood. And he sure as hell doesnt work according to directions printed on the OSB. Wannaba hacks like this should be pulled from RUclips. In my last few years I turned down numerous jobs the instant someone started bringing up RUclips instructional videos. Just because some schmuck can build crap in backwoods arkansas doesn't mean you can build the same crap in Winnipeg and have a building inspector allow you to keep your business liscense.
paspuniak I don't know what you guys do up there,but it's perfectly acceptable here,you do have to use clips tho ,I worked insurance work for alot of years and not once did we ever have to fix a claim where the damage was the result of someone using osb
"Up here" we build according to the provincial building codes. OSB for roofing is not quite otlawed yet, but most inspectors won't allow it in their jurisdiction. in the 80's when it was the new way to go during the softwood lumber fights between Canada and US it was cheap to manufacture. By 2005 it was layed out as unacceptable in the codebooks as they were realizing you build with the garbage pile from a mill, you get what you paid for. Something along the line of why use a sponge to cover the area that has the most direct weather. I have rebuilt hundreds of residential roofs where the first 2 feet from the eaves have been nothing but black moldy pulp within the first 5 years of the house being built from OSB's tendancy to wick up moisture from the eaves. Slam bam developers build that way knowing they will be 3 or 4 bankruptcies and business names down the road by then, but reputable builders making a career use plywood. As I said, that entire structure, a roof on cargo cans, etc, would put a person in court if they tried that up here.
The layer of material on the outside of a structure's studs or rafters, and under the siding and roofing materials, whether it's osb, plywood, or anything else that comes in sheets, or individual boards, is called sheathing.
"When it's in a pile, they're sheets. When you're installing, it's sheathing. A horse shoe is a horse shoe; when putting it on the horse, it's called shawin (sic?). One is called a tit, 2 are called boobs. Now that we have that straight, any others?" There fixed... although, in actuality, the two words are interchangeable in your last example. Either can be singular or plural.
Who gives a fuck sheeting sheathing. everyone who watched this video knew what the man was saying. small minds. look at me look at me. where's y'alls videos
Good Video and Tips !!! I always wondered why People " Never " sprayed a protection coating before nailing / screwing it to the Roof? Through time" Moisture " will build up and will leak upward and eventually warping / deteriorating those sheets and also it will leak into the " Under-layment / Shingle " causing it to " Warp " and " Curl " then a strong wind would rip it right off.
osb is a really good sheeting material if used correctly. it is extremely stable once it is dried in. the only reason the osb failed in this instance was because the person building the shop left it uncovered and 10in of snow sat on it.
xX with the stubborn old wives tales- OSB has been used for decades, no problems.Like someone said, plywood can delaminate worse if wet, though won't swell as much. Just don't get it wet , no problem.
I'm looking into going with Magnesium Oxide board (MgO board) - it is water proof, termite proof, won't burn, rot, or mold, and reflects 98% UV rays so performs as a radiant barrier and keeps the attic at least 30% cooler. Though it is more expensive.
We learn more (or we should learn more) from our mistakes than our successes. The comments have some good advice and some jerks - that is RUclips. If someone is planning a project, do the research first. In most parts of the U.S., you have to plan for rain. Good video.
Should use H -clips when sheeting.They provide proper spacing for the sides and also gives osb support in between trusses.Its up to you to space your butt joints on the truss.
I admire someone that can show their mistakes! However you might of avoided some of them if you manned up and told your brother,or anyone working for you, that you do the work correctly or you don't work for me! Your name is on the list of responsible person. Good luck, you appear to be a nice guy that wants to do a great job.
Plywood clips provides correct spacing for roofs, Nails is 8 per edge and 5 in the field. If one is popping, You will have to use either a roofing nail or metal cap nail to get it back down
1/8space between sheathing. Regardless water on. Heat on hot summer day will cause to expand as well. Nailing pattern is 6"oc on edges and 12" oc in fields minimum. And hclip requiress over 16oc spacing for rafter.
@@mikeholt3545 That's pretty much the guideline in Japan too, but then it has to resist typhoons and earthquakes. Some of the JAS certified plywood has a nailing schedule stamped on it, and that 4" and 8" is the minimum... Could be as close as 3" if you are using 2" nails... There's also a system now where you are supposed to use "certified" nails, where the length in mm is stamped on the head, AND they are all colour coded, so a building inspector can instantly tell if you have used the wrong length nail. I joke the building is made of nails - the wood is just there to hold them up!
I've already filmed some of the construction of this shop, and I'm definitely going to shoot more video of it as it progresses. It's been pretty crazy lately but I'll get more video up as I'm able :)
Take a circular saw down each edge ( width of blade 1/8"). Make a "T" board, put tee head down on raised planks, drill small holes on each side of stud to hold cable around 'T' board. to flatten sheets.You can also lag bolt 'T' board to studs
If plywood gets wet and warps will it usually dry out and settle down. it just happened to me . or will I have to take it all up.Thanks for the video. Any suggestions from you or roofers.
I specified 5/8 PT tongue and groove for my shop roof 3/4 T$G on the flooring was able to secure A/C but didn't pay all outdoors for it. I also space the floor joists at 13" on center to accommodate the machinery weight load. I would never use osb for anything other than an interior cabinet wall
Where I come from we cover up raw framing with a plastic material called Visquene before it rains. And spacing 1/8 between sheets has been standard practice since man quit living In caves.
Never use cheap materials , definitely don't leave anything exposed to weather . I was nailing my last shingle one time December 5th at 10pm in the moon light and it was just starting to snow . Never leave anything exposed !
So how much will the OSB cause a long apartment building to grow when it gets wet? Several inches as I recall. The end units all had walls out of plumb, going out at the top. Center units were fine. I don't know what happened with it all dried out.
Sheathing my house roof today. Man today is going to be brutal. Dude it only would have taken an extra 15 minutes to hit those sheets with the nail gun. On another note I hate how the wet weather always shows up when I'm working with osb
I know, right?! For us, we were fortunate to get off the roof alive because it was snowing so bad when we were trying to wrap up. We had to literally sweep a path back to the eave so we could climb down the ladder before sliding off. It was well after dark by that point, and my main helper friend injured his knees, so we had no other option but to quit for the night and figure it out the next day. But the snow just kept coming, and coming, and the rest is history.
How'd your roofing job go? I certainly hope better than mine ;)
@@TomWylie still going strong, getting ready to head out to Home Depot to buy the last 12 sheets, felt paper and the nails with the the orange caps. With my continued luck it rained this past Wednesday so naturally it was a mess. Didn't really get to start it when I wanted but we put up 60 sheets yesterday and going to dry it in today. Next I gotta price out shingles, buy a nail gun for that and of course watch RUclips videos on shingling.
TexasAggieNetwork nice work! Hope you got it dried in by now! :)
You could just cut it at the splices.....but you didn't offset your sheets by 48" so all needs to be reworked
I agree to the nail gun and like you I always get the wet weather too, when they call for sun and instead we get rain, snow and heck I think Fire and Brimstone!!! LOL!!!
Awesome video. So glad there are people out there like this guy who are not ashamed to help others by sharing their mistakes. These are the best learning videos.
Thanks Johnny. You are one of the few commenters who gets the reason I posted the video! 😆
I applaud Tom for his bravery and humility in posting this video. I have made many mistakes and I'm not sure I'd be thick-skinned enough to post a video about what I could do better next time. I certainly don't believe I'm in a spot to call someone a "bozo", or a "cheapo", or anything else like that, especially when I'm not posting videos.
Good on ya, Tom!
Nicholas Browning THANK YOU! I appreciate your kind words, and your understanding the spirit in which I posted this video. You get bonus commenter points! :D
Absolutely - we learn far more from seeing others mistakes! I admire people prepared to help others by showing their mistakes.
Unless you're his brother!
I could not agree more! As somebody who is aware of how easy it is to make mistakes, I have a question I trust you folks may be able to answer . . . I'm looking to use box profile steel sheets on a similar building (pitch etc. is different). I've come across a plastisol and PVC coating options at www.roofingmegastore.co.uk/roofing-categories/pitched-roofing/roofing-sheets/box-profile-sheets.html , which seem to simply offer greater durability. Do you have any preference on which you would choose? Thanks!
Takes alot of courage to admit your wrong
1/8 inch are for expansion and not for soak wet OSB. Even if you space evenly according to the recommendation, it would still buckle if wet. Keep it dry is the key.
Is not are....what language is that?
advantech sheathing should have been used, superior to OSB or plywood
@@zeke112964 grammar police are here. Get a life
@@brandonschurman2425 trolls are now here..... you get a life
@@zeke112964 that was a good one, have a good day little guy
Our lead framer told us about a time when they putting down the plywood on the roof and tacking them in place. The new guy had the job of coming right behind and nailing it off. After it was down, he noticed that only the first few sheets had nails in them. The young guy thought they came through the hose. The story has provided much laughter over the years, but it did save money on nails.
Doug McCoy yep new guy always has to nail it off, 1 buck to the boss for every miss
WHAT!!!!!!! where do the nails come from then?? 😁
What is tacking anyway
@@Eastbaypisces just putting the plywood sheets in place and driving a couple nails to secure them. Usually one guy with a nail gun can keep up with two guys fitting the pieces and cutting and making sure it is all on layout. The edges get nailed about 6 inches and the middle rafters at 12 inches apart.
@@dougmccoy1260 what do ya mean the edges? I got 2x6 rafters 16oc
Use a circular saw with an 1/8" blade and cut between the sheets of sheathing. Should give adequate room to nail down those waves. And I agree that 5/8" sheathing is preferable.
+1 on your fix recommendation!
Yeah just put some kerf cuts in it,clips are a must
JimPeachley i agree....hes making a mountain out of a bowed up osb mole hill!!!! Nail or screw her down after ripping 1/8an inch
i use an 8d sinker tight
should be galvanized ring shank nails a must!!!top cord of trusses
I’m not reading through all the comments to see if someone said or not, but a 16 penny nail tapped in a couple of places provides the correct spacing. When done, you can pull your nails and keep using them to space with.
Thanks, there aren't too many people with videos like this. Great tip. It pays to read instructions, no matter what you're doing!
Thanks, yep it sure does! 👍
>>>>PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE COMMENTING: This is a structure that is being built with an absolute minimal budget. Our county doesn't have ANY building codes, and I have several local builders I consulted with before and during construction, who agreed that the materials & techniques used are adequate for the intended purpose of this structure. It's built on shipping containers that are sitting on top of 6x6 timbers for a foundation. Just something to get us by till we can afford to invest more into a "proper" shop building.
We haven't even built our house yet (saving up for that) and my family of 5 is living in 400 sq ft of temporary living quarters.
Some of us have to choose where to make some trade offs in order to invest in other things that we put more value in. :)
The problems discussed in the video have since been corrected (very easily-we cut a double saw kerf down the middle of each high spot & nailed it back down.), and the rest of the roof was completed using H-clips and proper spacing & nailing. I'll upload more videos showing the corrections made, and more details of this build as time allows.
(NOTE: Although it's hard to see in the video, the OSB sheets ARE staggered correctly the way they are supposed to be. Anyone who comments on that from here on out obviously didn't read this comment. :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
you think thats bad ever seen 1/2 cdx when it gets wet and then the sun hits it ?
Yea and the assessment value from your County Assessors office reflects the decreased values in your county due to NO BUIDING CODES.
Might as well live in Lehigh County Florida. They botched it from the very start.
TomWylie door sling
I read it, could have spaced them with a couple loose ring 8's near the rafters and just used plywood. Osb on a roof? What are you some sort of savage? Geez guy, lol! It appears to be a bit short on the pitch for all that snow and 2x4 trusses. Nice work though, I'm glad you were able to fix it. Did you bitch that roof or run tar paper? Asphaualt shingles or metal panel finish?
as soon as it dries it will lay right back down.
Thanks for the tip. We all do things like this especially when we are in a hurry and are grateful for what help we can get.
colleeRich you bet, thanks for the encouragement!
You can add the expansion joint back in by just running a saw down the seam setting the depth to the osb thickness. I agree with others that just nailing down the bulges and letting it dry will fix those.
They make osb with different levels of waterproofness. The least waterproof stuff is what you commonly see though because it costs less.
First thing I thought as well. That, and this Wylie guy has no business making how-to videos...
I'm pretty sure it's a "how NOT to" video...
I want to thank you for being-candid in your video. I have needed a new roof I built 20 some odd years ago for the porch I built. I finally decided to do the research and I am going to use OSB. Sons are helping me (Mum) to re do it (they don't know it yet)! I am so glad you pointed out your mistakes or your families. I will be viewing more vid's. Thank you.
Man o man so glad you informed me that you should nail it all the way down and not let it get wet. I was about to leave mine in the rain and snow for couple weeks.
GREAT TIP....
Lol yeah man, gotcha covered 🤣🤦♂️
Also, there are metal spacers u can use to keep all boards spaced properly to avoid expansion issues
Nobody's perfect! Those that think they're untouchable are fooling themselves. Every project I've ever done has something that I would've done differently. You live (and work) and learn. Great project-
Those that have not made mistakes have never made anything (or sweet FA ) old Trade saying
U r a good man for being so honest and straight forward. I hope u get ur roof and the rest of the project taken care of.
Great Video... Thank you for posting this... I'm getting ready to build a 40 x 60 shop and if I had not seen this video I could have made the same mistake... So now you know this video prevented another person from making the same mistake...
Z71Ranger do yourself a favor if you feel like you have to do it yourself,buy a book or two
About to do my shed roof this weekend. I'm going to buy a bag of those galvanized sheathing clips that ensure proper spacing and help me remember to do it.
Use plywood clips (H clips) the next time you sheathe a roof, by using them it gives you your 1/8 in spacing and makes the joint between sheets stronger in the area between trusses.
Great tip !
Thank you very much for your help! And I hope you managed to recover your project easily.
I really like these videos, it sucks about your. Waste and cost, but we can all learn something from this. Im in the stages of planning to build a house and all this info is gold
Thanks Travis! I'm glad to be able to pass on these lessons so hopefully others like yourself don't have to repeat them ;)
God bless your house build!
Good on you for having s go at this stuff and trying to improve your lot.
Hope it goes well for you all👍
Thanks Chris, I appreciate it. Yes things are going well. I'll post an update on this sometime, as well as updates on a bunch of things for us. :)
Tarp it Tarp it Tarp it. Never let osb get wet if you can avoid it. Especially with snow sitting on it. I have 37 years as a GC and have had issues like yours in the past.
Thanks Jack. Yeah I definitely learned that with this project. :)
We’ve now got the rest of this shop roof sheeted & tar papered. The office room that I show in the video now has rafters up too, with a tarp over them to let the subfloor start to dry out.
What part of the country are you in?
Once the first two rows of plywood or OSB are nailed on somebody should be starting to put the paper on and follow you up the roof. Get it all done at the same time. 2 guys nailing plywood, 2 guys rolling paper. Staple it well, It'll shoot out from under you if you don't. Especially the thinner 15lb stuff. Sucks to bust your ass carrying a load of shingles because the paper slipped, sucks even more to go off the edge.
Of course this works best with an experienced crew...I know it's hard to do with friends, and family unfamiliar with the tools.
At the end of the day, when you're all tired and sore take a couple of "I-be-roofin" tablets.
Jack Holt always worth ruining few tarps over roofing over waves.
Ican'tSignIn....
......Start your paper at the top, then underlay the next roll. Use button tab nails. I will never stand on tar paper ever again.
If it's gonna remain exposed to the wind and rain for awhile - nail down some 2 by 4 cleats over the paper from ridge to eave. You can tar the nail holes in later if you're finicky.
I want some of those I-be-roofin's !
I-be-roofin....Extra Strength Tired-n-all...or plain ol' Ass-sprain...take your pick.
We get paid by the job, not by the hour so, quick, quick, quick. (But properly, by 30-40 year vets). I see what you're saying but then shingles can't start until ALL the paper is on. We start paper at the bottom so the shinglers can get going right away Standing around for 5 minutes is a couple of bundles not getting put on.
We usually don't even break for lunch because it's too hard to get started again, but it depends on the heat..we'll stop a bit to regroup between tear-off and putting it back on.
We use the Stinger staple guns with the plastic caps and we try to never leave paper exposed. Even the morning dew will wrinkle the hell out of your paper. The steeper it is the more staples in the paper.
We like to get it all done the same day. If it's a big roof that will take two days,(churches just love tall and steep) we only tear half off the first day, complete that side up to the ridge and cover the ridge with paper, next day, do the other side and ridge it.
We tarp the ground around the house where we're working. End of the day we do the FOD walk and leave no trace.
. Start tearing off at first light, back at the shop having a drink, sitting in the pool by 1 o'clock.
BTW...if you haven't tried those Cougar Paw boots you're missing out. Replaceable interchangeable soles. Different ones depending on what surface you're working on. Make you feel like Spiderman on those steep ones.. I got mine several years ago and they hold up well.
Doing my roof just now and i thank you for these great tips.
Thanks a reminder on small things that can become huge issues is always appreciated.
I been a professional builder in the Colorado Rockies and I’ve never had a problem with osb but what I do is paint the floor deck with white sealing paint which greatly helps water proofing, snapping chalk lines and cleanup.
Power Wagon THANK YOU.....I am “discussing” this with my husband right now. He says not necessary. I say so what. I want it. Also, I want plywood, maybe treated plywood. He says, unnecessary cost. We have had trouble with this roof because we live close to a heavily wooded area. Raccoons, skunks, squirrels and a opossum have gotten into the roof by “chewing” through the roofing. The tree they were climbing to get to the roof is now gone. Please advise. BTW we live in the upper part of the Michigan Mitten. Not the U.P.
@@justinepeabody4534 Sounds like you need a metal roof, instead of a wooden one. A metal roof and metal siding will also protect from forest fires.
And you need to do some pest control, by shooting all the pests.
I'm about to roof a 10x10 shed for the first time and glad I'm starting with a $10 bag of clips. Remember dude we learn from mistakes.
You can even use 8penny nails. H clips are cheap enough tho. The biggest problem here was, they didnt plan for weather and sheeted more than they could get covered. Under the top of the roof, you can fix the warped wood with blocking, nailed in w framing nails and back to the top to nail it in. You Must cover plywood or OSB with either felt paper or weather barrier or they will both come unglued and warp realllll quick too
Pretend your water🤔
Agreed we learn from our mistakes. But, I truly cannot afford more mistakes at this point. However, all these nice people sharing everything from pro tips to amateur mistakes is so helpful.
And all the comments as well.
Just a Godsend.
Truly.
Thank you for this good advice. I am going to remember this to advise others. I'm done with building projects (or so I hope!).
I wouldn't have thought the gap spacing was to accommodate that exposure; just for dry temperature expansion/contraction and humidity, not wet. Excellent video/pointing correlation.
live and learn. if this is the biggest mess up on the project it will still be a big success.
NebukedNezzer thanks! I agree :)
Yes, it should have had spacing. But shit happens. Don't waste time and material. Run a circular saw down the seam and screw down the bow. She'll be fine.
Agreed. Maybe shoot some glue in the gap before screwing it down. Nothing is ever perfect.
Thanks to ALL who shared excellent tips! I'd have to say I agree with P Dan's comment. Know what the weather will be and plan accordingly. If wet weather is unavoidable, cover your sheets so that water can run off. Snap lines for nailing if you (like me ;)) lack that skill. Use spacers to allow for expansion! Stagger the sheets to add strength (I assume this helps even more in earthquake and snow areas, but not sure how much it helps in hurricane/tornado areas).
Tips we all Know or Should Know: "A Job Well-Planned, is a Job 1/2 Done"..."Haste makes Waste"..."Measure Twice - Cut Once"..."Complacency leads to Injury"..."If you Don't Know, ASK (thank you RUclips)!"
Great video, thanks for sharing what went wrong, this is what really helps other builders 🔥❤👍👍
Good of you to make this video! Sometimes people need to see something to fully appreciate it!
I've been a carpenter for 35 years and I've gotten to the point where I just pass on jobs that include any OSB, particle board - including cabinets, MDF, or vinyl siding. My advice to customers is to concentrate on quality materials and sacrifice some square footage to pay for it.
Michael G. Gartman, I've been a cabinetmaker for 35 years. I think there is a place for MDF and Particle board, you just have to know where to use them. I will agree that plywood is a better sheathing than OSB. There is even an exterior grade MDF called Extira or Medex. There is also an industrial grad of particle board, it's much better than the garden variety used for underlayment sold in big box stores.
tom ruth I hear you and I understand what you are saying. I just prefer to pass on "budget" materials because I can make more money working for customers that share my view of using only top quality materials. Most of the homes I work on are in coastal zones and we just don't use OSB, particle board, MDF, Masonite, etc. It's just not allowed by many of the better engineers. I've also done more than my fair share of home renovations and I've seen firsthand which materials hold up and which ones break down and under what circumstances.
tom ruth I hear you and I understand what you are saying. I just prefer to pass on "budget" materials because I can make more money working for customers that share my view of using only top quality materials. Most of the homes I work on are in coastal zones and we just don't use OSB, particle board, MDF, Masonite, etc. It's just not allowed by many of the better engineers. I've also done more than my fair share of home renovations and I've seen firsthand which materials hold up and which ones break down and under what circumstances.
Michael G. Gartman must be nice to be able to pass on work!
Well I understand older generations of osb were crap and you can still buy cheap garbage but I challenge you to get one sheet of plytanium and tell me it isn't a quality product it bends nails every so often because it's so hard.
Thanks for the tip! We would like to see more videos if you have time.
Thanks Martin! I'm gradually getting a little bit more time to make videos. Every new improvement on the property frees me up just a little bit more so I can get further out of bare-bones "survival mode" :) This early blast of winter weather really hit us hard since we weren't ready for it yet. Thankful for a brief break now though, so we're tackling projects as fast as we can! Hope you guys are doing well!
Martin Johnson no we wouldn't
Brutal!! Thanks for sharing this. Seems like putting a tarp is the way to keep those roof sponges dry.
glad you were not too embarrass to share i hope you have a great space to work in now
Always use metal panel clips/spacers on decking. Stagger your courses and never use OSB if you can afford CDX plywood. Felt it or tarp OSB, always, once it is soaked, it will delaminate.Not fastening the entire sheet while your there is inefficient and could be deadly, if a sheet slides.
*"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten." -- Ben Franklin*
Especially concrete work
firecloud77 Yeah because who would think that OSB Or even real plywood would expand with moisture. 🤪
@@loveamerica587 that's a major "duh", huh?
"Experience is what we get after we needed it." 🙄
Remember, good workers aren't cheap and cheap workers aren't good. Not sure why you use sheathing on a roof frame if you are going to have a metal roof? Just battern and screw the sheets to the batterns
props for admitting mistakes. happen sometimes. OSB is a garbage product in the first place. standard ply was always comparible to osb, then the codes changed (in my area anyway). so osb drove prices of standard plywood up. and of course everyone wants cheap.. slap sheathing down, nail it off, take pics of spacing, 18th inch gap, cover it with paper and walk away.. people build houses to sell them within a few years. nobody wants to live a lifetime in a house because we all want to turn it for profits... if youre going to build a house, build it the right way.
Everytime I see new house being build using sob I knew they’re cheaping out and cut corner. It’s easy to know which home builders that does it too because they’re the ones the copy and paste same designs for every houses and they’re focus mostly on quantity . On the other hand the one the use plywood are not so popular because they’re probably cost more and their designs are different
That’s why I hate OSB and prefer CDX but if I think it’s gonna rain or snow I put the shiny side up and use the spacing clips. Helps for joint strength as well.
As somebody who owns a Mold Remediation company, OSB roof sheathing pays my mortgage every month.
I hope you’re not trying to insinuate that standard plywood is more mold resistant then OSB because that is not the case.
Ron Ball That’s exactly what I’m insinuating and 20 years mitigation experience and over 1000 attics treated have proven this out. OSB has a higher sugars content and when it gets moldy it is far more likely to become structurally compromised as the mold eats the binder glue.
@@EnderlePropertyService LOL...WOW Ive heard a lot of crazy shit in my life having been a carpenter since 1985, but that's a good one! Sugar content? Every single piece of a house frame is made from pine of some kind of configuration. I'm sure all framing lumber has a certain "sugar" content, but sugar making mold grown... really dude..Mold will grow on any surface, anytime the conditions and moisture are right. OSB is far more structural then conventional ply both horizontal and vertically. Standard ply is crap now and has been for the last 20 years. It de laminates and waves when wet, and makes siding look like shit. Save the "Sugar" comment for your dumb ass client that would believe that line...LMAO!!!!
Ron Ball Are you actually familiar with OSB? It’s wood chips and glue. It’s the glue that has the sugar content the mold eats. Once that glue is compromised...which mold will do all the way through far faster than plywood, the material rapidly loses structural integrity. Mold tends to grow on the surface of plywood and thus maintains its integrity far longer because once have breakthrough of the initial top layer, yiu have more layers underneath. Tell you what, take two pieces of sheathing, OSB and Plywood. Put them outside in the rain oriented horizontally, let mold grow on the underside. Come back in a year. Tell me which one has better structural integrity. You might build them, but I’m the one who treats them when they actually ARE moldy. The vast majority of roofs with advanced mold growth with plywood sheathing are getting treated and saved. The roofs with advanced growth and OSB sheathing are getting torn off and replaced.
interesting points ,if anyone else trying to find out backyard storage sheds plans try *WoodBlueprints. Com* Ive heard some decent things about it and my colleague got cool success with it.
thanks so much for this video :) i learned something today. also thank your brother. so many will benefit from this pitfall.
wayne d you’re welcome! That is exactly why I posted this video :)
there is a proper osb ,its called rough deck its water resistent on one side to stop this issue.its made for roofs.
Just came across this channel. Thank you for posting this. It might be a pitfall for you but at least others can learn from it. :)
Exterior 2" screws are my fav for fastening sheets to sticks. They don't pull out like nails. Applies to walls and floors too.
I'm a fibre glass roofer from Ireland where we get tons of rain every day. You must cover your roof with plastic until you apply the covering. I can usually do about 70sqm of fibre glassing in a day with two men. The key is a dry deck.
Yes, I've learned over the years; don't sheath a roof you can't cover with tar paper or a tarp almost immediately, because surprise rain events will ruin your project.
Let’s start a GoFundme page for Tom to get Dead Cat for his microphone for wind
Hey thanks, Thaylor Harmor! I already have one though, bought it after this very video. :D
LESSONS LEARNED: One thing over my life time, DON'T loan your brother any money! and 2) don't trust him on any help with you building your home!
OSB= Owner Saving Bucks! I built my house in 1995 and I put 1/2" plywood all the way around my house and 5/8" plywood on the roof. It was twice as much as OSB but you get what you pay for. Cheap can be expensive!
Put a base coat on the lumber, makes a world of difference. Takes one day with a sprayer. Worth it
Dude just cut around the sheets, the saw blade is enough to relieve the stress, always try to nail and cover any exposed sheething, plywood swells just as bad, and dont blame others, everyone should have helped nail the sheets
just nail it off,felt it in and get to work!!
Yep. In for a (8)penny, in for a pound. Replace the worst sheets and get it in the dry.
Haha I like that .. 👍that’s what real framer do
Thank you for sharing your situation. I am working on my shed now, and this is a big help.
You’re welcome! Thanks for the comment. (Sorry, late reply🙂)
Don’t worry about a thing with Zip system roof sheathing and the sheet price is the same as OSB. It’s also warranty for 30 years exposed, I will never do a roof with osb maybe floor sheathing but not roof or walls. I use to do this on the daily for 12 years. Zip system is the way to go!! Hope this helps with future projects.
Yes I've heard really good things about the zip system! Haven't tried it yet but I'd like to someday.
I would never use OSB although I know everybody does it. It disintegrates when it gets wet.
OSB sucks.
It's real simple. The APA rated OSB and plywood has an APA trademark. Go to their website, login, download the installation instructions for every panel made for the North American market... And yeah, it has spacing listed... They recommend a 10D common nail, 0.125 thick... Plus they have fastener spacing.
Expansion joints... invisible ingenuity. Every home is full of hidden gaps that serve a purpose. Nice video mate 👌
Should use sheeting clips.
Vancouver Island Waterjet ok the clips only work for the two side edges not on the toung or groove side. Really he should have tarped it off real good before letting it sit all season with snow on it. If he would have taken a few minutes to protect the osb he would have never had that problem.
Vancouver Island Waterjet i agree the clips would have done absolutely nothing , neither would spacing the osb . So let me take back my original statement of " should have used sheathing clips" and change it to " should have tarped it off before it got buried in snow for six months "
Vancouver Island Waterjet unfortunately shit construction is what we build here in the good ol U.S.A. anymore . The bulders and developers work fast here. They can flaten level and clear a site and build at least 20 dr. Seuss houses on it in less than a week. Forget about durability and integrity when they can save a penny by useing shit materials. Then you have people that misuse a shit product like this guy did. So in reality the end product isnt much better than the material used. Your right the clips are shit too,
Sheathing*
Dirty China you only sheath walls. You DECK a roof.
Didn't stagger butt seams....
I bet the nail off was also done to code. One nail per foot, or something.
in my part of the country, Southeast, the code is to use clips for spacing when you put the sheating down. Also nailing is required every six inches. Also, as soon as the OSB is down installed the felt paper
Thanks for the info. I have been devouring roofing videos to bone up on the info so I don't make any mistakes.
plans from stodoys are awesome!
True
I love that Garzon
Being your project you should have been keeping a close eye on all your workers. If you were the Foreman you should have said something. It's your own fault.
I’m sorry, did it sound like I was passing the buck? If this was a job for a client, I would have handled things WAY differently and this would have never happened. I explained in the video how my brother was volunteering & there were also other factors involved in my not getting back to it before I did. It’s my roof, my problem. I fixed it and it’s fine now.
I posted this video to help those who could learn from it, not so people could beat me up for it.
everybody makes mistakes and its also an easy fix. im sure theham staa is a pro at roofing and never made any mistakes. ;D this is a good video to learn from without ourselves having to learn it the hard way, thanks
Nostrathomas85 you are right ;) I shoulda kept to myself. Framers have a hard job. Take care fellas.
no worries
@ TomWylie. What did you do to make sure the trusses were on layout considering they were covered up and not nailed on layout by your brother?
Never knew that while i about to start doing over the porch roof which is leaking and did know that it swell... Thanks for the share...
Thank you for an informative video Tom.
Way too late now, of course, but, just saw along the 'peaks' of all the bubbling. Then nail down. Tarpaper or whatever other covering you are using. Then the metal roof. No strength lost. No having to tear up and replace panels. It's the same as if you had used smaller panels, cut to those dimensions.
selador11 yep! That’s exactly what I ended up doing to fix it. Cheers!
selador11 gonna say same thing.double up the blades on circular saw.works great
but thats cheating, only joking. thats a good way to save time and money... and your back.
Felt in use 2 x 4 runners then goof metal
Mostly why you should never use OSB..PERIOD
Cobambam bambam on board there pay the extra cost plywood
That's ridiculous. They've used OSB on roofs for decades, and the roofs are no problem. If you OSB, tar paper and shingle a roof and it gets wet, you did something wrong. Go spend the extra money for plywood on your own roof if it makes you happy.
Plywood will buckle too if it gets wet.
Have to say it’s more stable than ply on a roof if put on properly. Leave any sheet material on a roof or siding exposed for any length of time and you will have a mess like this.
Plywood wood will quickly delaminate if left out in the open long enough. 3/4 inch OSB 3 should only be used to deck a roof. It's far more stable than ply. It just swells when wet but dries out fine. I do alot of fibre glass roofing and OSB 3 is the only deck I use.
I just hope I find good people like you to do my roof. I'm gonna pray on that one!
*the ply was not nailed down proper.* oh not good! LOL great to see your video cuz I'm about to have a new roof put on!
I am sorry that this happened to you guys and thank you for sharing. Should be a warning for all of us DIY to be more careful.
Probably using Zip System roofing panels would have mitigate or avoided the problem. back in 2017 they were not much more expensive than regular OSB.
They are still way more expensive, 7/16th zip is almost $40/sheet, regular osb is $10 per sheet...
The real lesson here: NEVER. LET. OSB. GET. WET.
jfbeam yes! Definitely would have prevented all of the above ;)
#1. There is no such thing as "sheeting." The word you are looking for is sheathing. You are sheathing the roof, not "sheeting" the roof. This morning we will sheathe the wall, not "sheet" the wall.
#2. You are not using plywood clips on your roof sheathing.
#3. Do not accept advice from this guy about framing and sheathing, because he will screw you up.
First of all its called sheeting by almost everyone and their mother who has ever done this unless you want to be super technical about shit then yes. Yes he didn't use clips big deal. And yes this guy does give out some good advice. If you wanted to nit pick you should of said how he needed to use 5/8 OSB nail every 6 inches on the border of the sheets and every foot everywhere else. May I add one more thing? Being an ass won't get you anywhere.
You sound like a jackass saying sheeting. Someone says sheathing, and the aforementioned jackass thinks they heard the word sheeting. Its sheathing, from the word sheathe. Framing, sheathing and nails combined give a house its structural integrity. In Florida they call it decking. Roof decking, we have to deck the roof, framers and deckers wanted. As for plywood clips on the roof sheathing, building code may require them.
Also, if they had used plywood clips on the roof sheathing, that OSB wouldn't have buckled. One can certainly sheathe a roof with 1/2 inch OSB, builders do it every day. Furthermore, nail off patterns depend on building codes. Also, may I finish with this sir? Donald J. Trump is the biggest ass that ever drew breath, and it got him all the way to the white house.
I am not an ass, I am an asshole.
Remember to wipe it helps fool people.
i call it sheeting, sue me
Be carefull when you're doing your next sheeting job. I laughed so hard ;D
Thanks for showing mistakes. We learn from them.
You bet. That's the idea! 😉
Ummmmmm.... WTF? Do you not have a building code where you live? Building inspectors? I understand between Canada and wherever you are may be different, but I highly highly doubt 1/2 inch OSB and no H clips is legal anywhere. All I see from the beginning to end of this video is building code infractions one after another. In Manitoba if you tried what you are doing the local building inspector would have you in court. Learn what you are doing, please. I don't give that mess 10 years before it collapses.
paspuniak 1/2 osb is fine on 16 inch centers
I shingled for 25 years, no, it's not. I never once in those years clad a roof in OSB regardless of code and refused to shingle for any homebuilder that did. Any carpenter worth the name uses plywood. And he sure as hell doesnt work according to directions printed on the OSB. Wannaba hacks like this should be pulled from RUclips. In my last few years I turned down numerous jobs the instant someone started bringing up RUclips instructional videos. Just because some schmuck can build crap in backwoods arkansas doesn't mean you can build the same crap in Winnipeg and have a building inspector allow you to keep your business liscense.
paspuniak I don't know what you guys do up there,but it's perfectly acceptable here,you do have to use clips tho ,I worked insurance work for alot of years and not once did we ever have to fix a claim where the damage was the result of someone using osb
Pas-Then a pro can come in ,do it right and make a living.(Grinning all the while.)
"Up here" we build according to the provincial building codes. OSB for roofing is not quite otlawed yet, but most inspectors won't allow it in their jurisdiction. in the 80's when it was the new way to go during the softwood lumber fights between Canada and US it was cheap to manufacture. By 2005 it was layed out as unacceptable in the codebooks as they were realizing you build with the garbage pile from a mill, you get what you paid for. Something along the line of why use a sponge to cover the area that has the most direct weather. I have rebuilt hundreds of residential roofs where the first 2 feet from the eaves have been nothing but black moldy pulp within the first 5 years of the house being built from OSB's tendancy to wick up moisture from the eaves. Slam bam developers build that way knowing they will be 3 or 4 bankruptcies and business names down the road by then, but reputable builders making a career use plywood. As I said, that entire structure, a roof on cargo cans, etc, would put a person in court if they tried that up here.
your first mistake was calling sheathing sheeting.
thats my mistake too
The layer of material on the outside of a structure's studs or rafters, and under the siding and roofing materials, whether it's osb, plywood, or anything else that comes in sheets, or individual boards, is called sheathing.
"When it's in a pile, they're sheets. When you're installing, it's sheathing. A horse shoe is a horse shoe; when putting it on the horse, it's called shawin (sic?). One is called a tit, 2 are called boobs. Now that we have that straight, any others?"
There fixed... although, in actuality, the two words are interchangeable in your last example. Either can be singular or plural.
decking on a roof...
Who gives a fuck sheeting sheathing. everyone who watched this video knew what the man was saying. small minds. look at me look at me. where's y'alls videos
Good Video and Tips !!! I always wondered why People " Never " sprayed a protection coating before nailing / screwing it to the Roof? Through time" Moisture " will build up and will leak upward and eventually warping / deteriorating those sheets and also it will leak into the " Under-layment / Shingle " causing it to " Warp " and " Curl " then a strong wind would rip it right off.
When you get in a bind and can't afford to take it up, 16d hand drives will have enough length to pull the humps down.
Lesson #1, do not sheet with osb. Bunch dummys.
osb is a really good sheeting material if used correctly. it is extremely stable once it is dried in. the only reason the osb failed in this instance was because the person building the shop left it uncovered and 10in of snow sat on it.
Fixers Workshop yep you got it! I obviously didn’t want to afford putting plywood on this roof for my shop. :)
I actually prefer osb to plywood ,and as long as you get it covered it's fine ,plywood does way worse things in the conditions that happened here
xX with the stubborn old wives tales- OSB has been used for decades, no problems.Like someone said, plywood can delaminate worse if wet, though won't swell as much. Just don't get it wet , no problem.
I'm looking into going with Magnesium Oxide board (MgO board) - it is water proof, termite proof, won't burn, rot, or mold, and reflects 98% UV rays so performs as a radiant barrier and keeps the attic at least 30% cooler. Though it is more expensive.
We learn more (or we should learn more) from our mistakes than our successes. The comments have some good advice and some jerks - that is RUclips. If someone is planning a project, do the research first. In most parts of the U.S., you have to plan for rain. Good video.
And this is why the strong tie spacers are soooooooo worth it. No one likes being on a roof especially when it comes to ripping boards off 😜
Thanks for tips. Glad you found it. Good EYE tp check roofong job.👀
Thanks so much for sharing this info and lesson.
Should use H -clips when sheeting.They provide proper spacing for the sides and also gives osb support in between trusses.Its up to you to space your butt joints on the truss.
I admire someone that can show their mistakes! However you might of avoided some of them if you manned up and told your brother,or anyone working for you, that you do the work correctly or you don't work for me! Your name is on the list of responsible person. Good luck, you appear to be a nice guy that wants to do a great job.
Plywood clips provides correct spacing for roofs, Nails is 8 per edge and 5 in the field. If one is popping, You will have to use either a roofing nail or metal cap nail to get it back down
Usually when I deck a roof and see bad weather coming my way I halt the sheathing, grab a roll of synthetic underlayment and dry it in.
Best gloves ever made
You got that right! You'll almost never catch me without a pair. :D
1/8space between sheathing. Regardless water on. Heat on hot summer day will cause to expand as well. Nailing pattern is 6"oc on edges and 12" oc in fields minimum. And hclip requiress over 16oc spacing for rafter.
6and 12 is too far 4 and 8 are my rule
@@mikeholt3545 That's pretty much the guideline in Japan too, but then it has to resist typhoons and earthquakes. Some of the JAS certified plywood has a nailing schedule stamped on it, and that 4" and 8" is the minimum... Could be as close as 3" if you are using 2" nails... There's also a system now where you are supposed to use "certified" nails, where the length in mm is stamped on the head, AND they are all colour coded, so a building inspector can instantly tell if you have used the wrong length nail.
I joke the building is made of nails - the wood is just there to hold them up!
Would love to see that whole build
I've already filmed some of the construction of this shop, and I'm definitely going to shoot more video of it as it progresses. It's been pretty crazy lately but I'll get more video up as I'm able :)
Take a circular saw down each edge ( width of blade 1/8"). Make a "T" board, put tee head down on raised planks, drill small holes on each side of stud to hold cable around 'T' board. to flatten sheets.You can also lag bolt 'T' board to studs
I support your channel Tom.
Vochos Granja thanks!
If plywood gets wet and warps will it usually dry out and settle down. it just happened to me . or will I have to take it all up.Thanks for the video. Any suggestions from you or roofers.
I specified 5/8 PT tongue and groove for my shop roof 3/4 T$G on the flooring was able to secure A/C but didn't pay all outdoors for it. I also space the floor joists at 13" on center to accommodate the machinery weight load. I would never use osb for anything other than an interior cabinet wall
Learned that one the hard way also. Never let roof osb get wet....or you could use zip system on roof, it seems to be much better quality.
Where I come from we cover up raw framing with a plastic material called Visquene before it rains. And spacing 1/8 between sheets has been standard practice since man quit living In caves.
I know I'm a little late but they sell metal roofing spacers specifically for that, it will also help lock them together and they're fairly cheap.
Never use cheap materials , definitely don't leave anything exposed to weather . I was nailing my last shingle one time December 5th at 10pm in the moon light and it was just starting to snow . Never leave anything exposed !
I never gave the 1/8 inch spacing issue any thought. Now I will remember it.
Gaps can be added with sheets nailed in place with skill saw (of coarse do not saw nails).
So how much will the OSB cause a long apartment building to grow when it gets wet? Several inches as I recall. The end units all had walls out of plumb, going out at the top. Center units were fine. I don't know what happened with it all dried out.
your doing a good job
randolf hearst thanks!