Nice. The ball valve is a great idea. You can fill via pressurized water or just pour it in. Two minor suggestions for anyone building these things. 1) Use a step bit. Leave the spade bits for woodworking. 2) Use a 1/4 turn boiler bib instead of a garden hose bib. Well, here's a third. 3) consider using a foot pump. You can keep pumping pressure in as needed during your shower. I have a collapsible shower bag that uses a foot pump. I never run out of pressure. You can use your bike pump this way too if you don't mind it getting wet.
Or if you want to use the spade bit don't predrill. That's what the pointy bit in the middle is for. It won't go all wobbly like it did at 5:31. And think about clamping the things you are drilling so you don't drill your hand.
I've tried using spade bits on plastic, they like to bite into it and get stuck. They are a real pain for plastic. If you absolutely must use one, I've found that running it backwards actually cuts a lot better than forwards.@@cTron417
That's a nice build. Back filling through the spigot might be easier than top filling. Your hoses are all ready double female so you can do that no problem. If not it's easy to make one or buy a washing machine hose at a hardware store. I have seen schedule 40 PVC pipe used to run compressed air in a work shop. I guarantee 30 PSI is safe as long as your build is solid.
Thank you!! Great ideas!! Currently working on building mine following your exact steps. Im a mt biker in the PNW…and definitely need a shower in those rainy muddy days
I successfully used this video to make my own shower, thank you! Lots of great ideas, especially the oversized ball valve as a filler. I did need to tweak a few details to make mine work, though. For anyone who's interested here's what I found: a few early experiments showed that -- for me anyway -- sealing up the valves with silicone did not hold air pressure reliably. I worried such failures would be a problem if I set valves into cemented-in end caps (if the silicone didn't work, how would I fix it?). Accordingly I put my hose bib into a reducing fitting that had a female thread receiver. More significantly, I put a 4 inch tee, instead of a wye, in the middle of my long tube. The middle part of the tee is a 4 inch female thread fitting. I set all of my valves, including the big ball valve, through a flat 4" screw cap. That big screw cap never needs to be opened, unless any of the valve sealing fails. All of the failure-prone parts are isolated in that one removable cap. To seal the valves going through that cap, I used o-rings on each side and a bit of TPFE paste. Now it works like a charm! When I'm filling it up at home, I can just back fill it via the hose bib. I also decided to put slosh limiters inside my tube. This was a pain but limiting the slosh should reduce some of the forward/back forces on the tube that might rip it off the roof. And a dedicated pressure relief valve set to 35 PSI. Hope this is useful! Thanks again!
Glad the video was helpful for you and love all of the adjustments that you made. Mine is still working great, but if anything does fail I will be stuck. Also helpful for a yearly cleaning and such. Great stuff!
@@MTBTravelReview Now that I've used mine a bit, I wish I had used a wye like you did, instead of a tee. But I couldn't find a wye with a screw cap. What I've found is that to really use the air pressure to get a good "long" shower, I need to leave a little bit of empty room in the tank, so there is a sufficient volume of compressed air. Your wye leaves a little volume for that.
There's a clean out cap called a Tom Cap which you can cement inside a pvc union. I did that, but drilled out most of the cap itself so water would mostly flow. RUclips user Eric enjoys earth did something similar with drain covers. Or you could fill your big pipe with wiffle balls. Good luck!
If using city water, use the pressure in hose to charge the system while filling up! You don't need to manually pump up the system unless you are remote and don't have access to pressurized city water. Otherwise, nice system!
Nice video. Great how you start the video and give us all we need and don't just jump in to project. Appreciate it. I have built some off grid outdoor showers that I made a pvc chamber that was separate from an old hot water heater. I would have to pump it like 30 time to get a decent shower. I later found an old vw 12v air pump that ran off a battery. I did'nt take long to pressurize the hot water tank and enjoy a shower with two showerheads at the same time.
Thanks for the good video, and showing me a way to update the one I have. I want to slightly pressurize the water, and the bike valves are a great idea. As you’ve shared your great ides, I’ll share my tip. To mount the shower, I used threaded rods and put fuel line over them. Bent them around to fit over the shower, and then threaded them directly into holes in my cross bars, put nylocks on the bottom, and been going strong for 4 years. 👌🏽🤙🏽
Tip for beginners to fill easier if near town water pressure , crack the ball valve open up top attach hose output to town water and turn taps on till water rises out of ball valve shes full ready to heat just turn off taps and close ball valve.
Correct. Alternatively, with town pressure you could leave the valve shut to fill to town pressure, ie, to pre pressurise the vessel, while it would hold a little less water it would be ready to go without pumping up.
Its a great build all right, but just like you its great to watch other people do it and then do what you think is best. So with that in mind the only improvement I would make on yours if I were building one would be to have the "air in" schrader type valve fitted on the same plane as the pressure relief valve. Reason......so it cant get damaged or bent, if the pipe rolls or something knocks it either on the vehicle or in the garage when its not in use...... because to replace it could be a bit of a bugger if it did. Just sayin' Just out of interest how would you replace the valves if the did need replacing?
Regarding the valve, I don't think there is any perfect placement. Placing the valve at the top would make it tough to my bike pump hose to reach. I have had the presta valve bend once already. Luckily, the core of the presta valve is the only part that can really bend and it's replaceable, so it's a pretty easy fix. If the valves need replacing, things get a bit more complex, so I will cross that bridge if/when I get there. haha. Worst case, I'd have to cut out a section and replace it completely, but I don't see that happening any time soon. It's been pretty bomb proof so far.
Now the thing I see that I would do different than what everyone is doing is I would make a smaller diameter tube and make it square and depending on the size of your rv/truck/etc you can add rows for what ever volume you need. This distributes the weight evenly and it also is more surface area for the water to heat up. You could also make it hinged so it could be angled toward the sun. I have seen a similar design from a friend and it would get super hot like too hot but that was in Texas. If I knew I would be dealing with that I might make a cold water mix. You could also just make a separate pvc pipe pump that has a valve for filling but also a valve that connects to the water so you could pressurize it first then release it. Then you could judge the size you need for the length of shower you want. I also have a 12v outlet in the back of my Element and I have a airpump for my tires that I could set to 30 psi and just push a button when its starts to fade.
Good in theory, but every joint is a potential leak, especially when you have a square matrix on top of a moving vehicle. It seems like it would be subject to constant small shear forces just going down the road. The design in the video also allows you to use most of your rack for other things rather than using it just for the solar shower.
Tks for posting. The ball valve is excellent idea. I built mine with the 4" screw in cap with the rubber seal and it still leaks pressure. Time to modify!
I like the ball valve idea. I plan on making one but instead of pressurizing it I plan on using a 12v RV pump on the output. I already have the pump setup.
You could have used PVC pressure pipe and not be worried about the PSI. Also Id have used a 4x2 wye instead of a straight 4” and you could have saved joints and money. Otherwise it's a great design!
Nice. I built a U-shaped 12gallon and wrapped it around a 320 watt solar panel but I used only two air valves. takes longer to fill, but super frugal and easy to pressurize. Water always seems to be hot. Video on my channel.
Curious about the decision to use the WYE hub rather than another elbow at the other end. An elbow would reduce the total number of joints and would reduce the cost, but I may be missing some obvious advantage of the WYE hub.
Yup, many do, which is great until you realize you have to open and close it every time you use it. Then you are constantly using plumbers tape, which sucks. Also, there is a pressure release valve, and no need for a gauge because the bike pump I use has one. :-)
@@MTBTravelReview Funny enough, I was wondering why no gauge as I watched the build and then remembered that you were using a push bike air pump which would have one on it. I'll be using my vehicle mounted air compressor so I'll put a gauge and a pressure relief safety valve to keep everything safe. Well done on the video production; "show, don't tell" was perfectly executed.
A very nice build. This all works, as long as there is no solar on the roof, as this setup will create unwanted shade areas on the panels, rendering them pretty much useless. No solar - no problem and a very viable solution.
awesome job! getting ready to build one this week and will definitely use your video as the guide. Thank you for taking so much time to provide all details!!
@@MTBTravelReview Awesome. bought some parts today to start the build. 2 quick questions. Is there any particular reason you chose a "wye" instead of an elbow at the opposite end from the spigot? 4" SCH 40 is rated to 220 PSI so I would think installing the auto vent isn't really necessary. I want to keep it simple but also safe... Thanks in advance!
@@patrickrose2508 I could lie about the WYE and say aerodynamics, but no, no particular reason at the time. Haha. Just seemed to work best. That said, the WYE works well because it provides extra space for pressurized air. Others have tried to use an elbow with less room for air and they said the system didn’t pressurize right. Regarding the added release valve: it’s def not necessary, but has been useful to release air as opposed to opening the ball valve, because the ball valve makes a large “pop” sound when you try to release all excess pressure at once. Hopefully that makes sense. Pressure can just as easily be released via the presta valve, but you have to sit there and hold it in to do so.
I was just thinking you could add one more piece, a hose hookup, directly to the ball valve end. Then you could just screw the hose end onto it (provided it has a floating collar), open the valve, and fill that way. The system would absorb the pressure from the houses water system, then you just close up the ball valve, bleed whatever excess pressure off, and you're in business. No pumping required! Might not work well if the house water is under a ton of pressure, but from what I was seeing, it would probably be safe in most cases.
Sparmax Airbrush company makes a 12 volt single cylinder compressor (I've used it to do airbrush tattoos at the markets. It will run up to 60 PSI, comes with alligator clips for your battery and has an built in Auto shut-off switch ... as any spray painter will tell you the further away from the pump, you line pressure will drop. I mounted mine in the front of my tear drop by the battery compartment and run an 8 foot Airbrush hose. I leave it hooked to the tank 24/7, but only hook up the battery when my wife or me shower... pretty simple and I can also use the pump on my tires and/or paddle boards, if needed as an airbrush hose you can purchase an 8 mm quick release fitting and attach a thumb lock tire hose.... just a thought. Side note; Sparmax invented oil free compressors back in 1990 and many companies make copies...in America, Australia, Japan and England they are easy to purchase, I have one from 1995 at one of our stalls. The one on my tear drop is a year old. Iwata sells them under their logo, but Sparmax makes it for them.
Happy to help! Honestly, no major changes at this point. The only thing I am entertaining is another chamber for more water. It holds enough for two showers, but 4 would be even better.
Do you have to worry about water freezing in the pipe? I would like to build one of these system and install it in my backyard. In winter, night temperatures can go down to 18 and there can be entire week overcast without much sunlight. Impressive design in the video though.
Appreciate it. It’s been working amazing, but is definitely not something I would use in low temperature like you are talking about. PVC becomes fragile in colder temps, so pressuring it would not be a good idea, with or without water. The water could also freeze inside and expand, thus shattering the pvc. This design is only meant for spring/summer temps.
In theory, yes, but pressure would be lost much faster. Also, have to re-pressure between showers and the more volume without water, the harder it will be to pressurize.
I know it's been a few years, but I made my own version of this. You have great advice. My issue is that turning on the water quickly creates a vacuum and the flow stops. Right now I only have shredder valve that I pressurize with. Is there air coming in the Presta valve when the water is running?
That is an interesting issue that I haven’t personally dealt with. There isn’t any air coming into the system when is under pressure and the presta valve remains closed. The water will actually keep running once the pressure is gone as well with now issue. Perhaps it’s because mine has a down spout and gravity is playing a bigger role? I am at a loss on this one. Sorry!
Very nice build, but you should let people that a Presta valve requires an adapter, in order to use a standard air hose like you would find at a gas station. Most folks probably are not aware of that. Thanks for the video.
Pretty dang cool! I need to figure out how to pour water into it, versus filling it via a hose. Any ideas? Thanks! Also, my tank will be stored vertically, versus horizontally.
Cheers man. Definitely a few tweaks that could be made if you are going to store verifiably, but that’s what makes it fun! Either a good funnel or a transfer hose could work just as well as a standard hose. Let us know what you figure out!
How about the cleaning part. The inside needs a scrubbing after a while. What would be the safest way to make that happen. I've had an issue with that little slime collecting in my previous system
Solid question and something I’ve definitely thought about. Best bet is likely to use a pvc safe cleaning solution. Fill, shake, let sit, rinse over and over. Luckily, this isn’t meant for potable water, so I’m not too concerned.
Did you do the pressure test with the water inside? Because water doesn't contract under pressure - comparing to the air, it won't accept too much energy and therefore the boom will not be big scary and injuring so much if it bursts.
Looks great. But the schedule 40 pvc you use says it's not recommended for pressure, as the pipe can shatter. How high can you safely pressurize the tube?
No pvc is recommended for pressure, but that is why I stay below 35 psi. There are psi rating for each type of pvc online. From what I remember it starts to get really dangerous above 150psi. Potato guns are charged up to 300, which is VERY dangerous. Pressuring any PVC is at your own risk.
@@MTBTravelReview thanks! Ran across this page, and looks like it should be safe at the low PSI we would be using for this. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html
@@MTBTravelReview thats not necessarily true. I work with PVC all the time. It depends on the type of PVC. Foam core (which is probably what you used) isn't rated for pressure, drain lines and sewer lines only, but there is PVC thats rated for higher pressure. Its used exclusively for pressure applications, mostly water. With that said, anybody working with PVC really needs to check and make sure what they have so they can make sure to use it safely
Hello, good evening, I am about to do this as a project for the science fair, I wanted to know more about exactly how many times I should pressurize, also if you could give me some suggestions. Thank you!
Very cool. With 1 tank you get two showers, so you have to pressurize twice. I pump to about 30 psi for a 2 and a half minutes of water pressure. Shower turning it on to get wet, then off to soap, then on to rinse.
I mean, it sounds like it would make sense, but remember, the bigger you go, the more you have to pump to keep the right pressure. This size gives you the perfect 3 minute shower, then refill and repeat. If you try to do a second shower with a half empty tube it takes a lot more work to build pressure with the bike pump I use.
I used standard 4” Home Depot PVC. It is not specialty pressure rated PVC. I’ve been told it can handle pressure up to 300 psi, but to be safe, I never go above 30psi and it’s more than enough for a 2-3 shower
Love this build. Is your shower time limited to 3ish minutes due to the pressure or water capacity? If pressure, roughly how many showers can you get out of this before refilling? Looking into options for my wife and I.
3 minutes due to water pressure. I can usually get two conservative showers out of 1 tank. I have added a simple backup 8 galling water storage tank next to this one for more shower potential.
I already have a presta foot pump on hand since I am a cyclist. “No electricity needed” was the goal here, so a compressor wasn’t a factor. You could easily use a Schrader valve if you wish!
Thanks man, i combined your design with a little bit of my own touch this past wknd and built and L shape system (6.5 gals total), i went with ABS pipes and totaled out to be about $135. Ryobi has a cordless tire inflator so I'm going with that instead of a bikebump
Yeeee! Agreed! I’m building this set up right now!! What a great idea! Glad to hear yours is still working. Y’all should try pressurizing with co2, can get a tire inflator adaptor for the co2 canister. Relatively cheap for refills, what’s your guys thoughts??
@@RadRob000 I would not use Co2. Co2 will actually flash freeze the inside ever time that you use it, and that will stress out the PVC making it more likely to become fragile and dangerous in time. It’s also hard to gauge how much air you are putting in. Floor pump or electric pump is best.
Cheers! 1 foot of 4” PVC = .6825 gallons, so this holds just over 3.5 gallons. Gets about 2 good showers. I just added an 8’ holding tank so I can fill it twice with that. You dont want to make a huge main chamber, as that just means you need more pressure as the water gets below half tank.
Nice! What kind of PVC did you use - I see 'schedule 40' is the kind made for pressurized applications but its so heavy! Did you just use regular DWV? Drain waste vent?
Any idea how heavy that tube is when it's full of water? I'm an over-the-road truck driver, and that would actually be a great device to carry around when I'm stuck overnight with no access to a shower. But, I would need to fill it up with water, before I leave the house. So I wonder if it would be too heavy to move around and attach to my truck after I get to my terminal.
Yes and no. If you release the pressure very slowly, then yes, but if you release more pressure because you have more, then it’ll go faster. Even with high pressure pvc, there are still inherent dangers from blowout and connection points, etc, so I prefer to stay below 40 PSI. Gives a solid 2-3 minute show. Any longer and you will only get 1 shower per tank.
I have a concern about this Plastic ABS,or PVC Pipe...??.. Won't it shatter in the Sunshine, and or Blow Up from excess Heating...??.. Please let me know with a simple response.... Tanks...
hi, i see you have squaredrop and do mountain biking trips. where does your bike live during transport, at night and while you are away from the car/camper? i am currently building my squaredrop and trying to figure out how to store the bike inside. here in CO, leaving bike outside means it will almost certainly get taken. any input appreciated.
My bike either goes in the back of my grand Cherokee or I take the front wheel off and put it into of the camper. Not as bad here as it is out West with theft.
My researched showed that ABS is made of recycled or “regrind” plastic, which can make it less durable than PVC. PVC was also just easier to find with more connection option at my local store.
@@MTBTravelReview acually ABS vs PVC , PVC is more flexible and both are okay for potable water. ABS will hold 100 psi no problem. Relief valve for sure. Both PVC and ABS do not require silicone as they are sealed water tight if the glue and procedure is done correctly. Abs will work a little better as the glue will soften the abs to make for better seal on any fittings that are not made for fitting the plumbing for the project. Nice job though, get rid of the hose clamps and poly hose. Use a nice high quality coil garden hose :)
I haven’t gone through all the comments to see if anyone has brought this up. In the beginning the author said that he wanted to do his own video because of the mistakes people were making in the videos that were out there. I have a lot of suggestions to make to improve a DIY setup. I don’t like this set up for a number of reasons. We installing something into PVC take advantage of being able to drill any place you’re making a hole. Don’t add something then make it unserviceable. When he added the hose bib I believe he used some sort of locktite on the male threads of the hose bib then pushed it through his cap and then screwed a nut on the back side of these same threads pinching it between the pvc and counting on the locktite and nut to keep it from leaking. If that hose bib ever goes bad you’ll need to cut the cap off do the repair and recluse the cap. Bad idea and believe me a hose bib will go bad at some point. Use the same house bib either 3/4” or 1/2” and drill and tap the pvc and thread you hose bib in place. This way if it ever goes bad you can unthread it and replace it. There were just too many other things like the 4” Y connector with the 1” ball valve. That thing was sticking up in the air a mile. Also if you can use DWV instead of PVC it will be cheaper and weigh less. It’s also thinner which can make drilling and tapping a little trickier. Always drill and tap through a fitting and pipe. Another words drill and tap through a coupling or cap even a 90 this way you have the thickness of the pipe and the fitting to tap your threads into. I’m not going to go any further and rip this apart just understand that when making one of these you want things to be serviceable and as low to the rack as possible.The first tree limb you see will take the 1” ball valve right off. I appreciate anybody doing videos and giving me idea’s as did this guy. Even if the idea he gave me is to do my own DIY on a solar shower for over-landing, camping etc.
I pray that you typed that on a laptop, because that was quite the comment! I’d run through a list of responses, but instead of over exerting my thumbs on this tiny screen, I’ll leave you with this: no matter how good your point is, delivery is everything. And I put a mountain bike on the roof right next to that 1” ball valve, so you leave my valve alone. It’s just wonderful, IMO. Looking forward to seeing your video.
The huge problem I am having is with the brass boiler drain valve and the threaded bushing adapter it will not screw down far enough to get a tight fit on the 4" pvc end cap. Ieven went back to Lowes to try other valves and bushings and they are all the same they just won't thread all the way, just about midway and I have a gap of at least 1/2 in which I am pretty sure the pvc cap is not that thick to make a solid tight connection. Any advice?
That’s a tough spot. I had a tough time tightening that connection on mine as well. Mine isn’t insanely tight. I could spin the drain valve if I really tried to, but the watertight sealant I used is keep a strong water and air tight seal, so I haven’t had any issues.
@@MTBTravelReview well I found a way to make it super tight, I just added an O-ring, now I am set to move on thanks for your reply and your awesome vid I hope u get a million views someday
Nice. The ball valve is a great idea. You can fill via pressurized water or just pour it in. Two minor suggestions for anyone building these things. 1) Use a step bit. Leave the spade bits for woodworking. 2) Use a 1/4 turn boiler bib instead of a garden hose bib. Well, here's a third. 3) consider using a foot pump. You can keep pumping pressure in as needed during your shower. I have a collapsible shower bag that uses a foot pump. I never run out of pressure. You can use your bike pump this way too if you don't mind it getting wet.
All great tips! Thank you!
Or if you want to use the spade bit don't predrill. That's what the pointy bit in the middle is for. It won't go all wobbly like it did at 5:31.
And think about clamping the things you are drilling so you don't drill your hand.
I've tried using spade bits on plastic, they like to bite into it and get stuck. They are a real pain for plastic. If you absolutely must use one, I've found that running it backwards actually cuts a lot better than forwards.@@cTron417
No baffles to keep the water from slushing when you are driving?
That's a nice build. Back filling through the spigot might be easier than top filling. Your hoses are all ready double female so you can do that no problem. If not it's easy to make one or buy a washing machine hose at a hardware store. I have seen schedule 40 PVC pipe used to run compressed air in a work shop. I guarantee 30 PSI is safe as long as your build is solid.
Thank you!! Great ideas!! Currently working on building mine following your exact steps. Im a mt biker in the PNW…and definitely need a shower in those rainy muddy days
Excellent video. Will be starting this project in a couple weeks. Cant wait. Ty for the knowledge
I successfully used this video to make my own shower, thank you! Lots of great ideas, especially the oversized ball valve as a filler.
I did need to tweak a few details to make mine work, though. For anyone who's interested here's what I found: a few early experiments showed that -- for me anyway -- sealing up the valves with silicone did not hold air pressure reliably. I worried such failures would be a problem if I set valves into cemented-in end caps (if the silicone didn't work, how would I fix it?).
Accordingly I put my hose bib into a reducing fitting that had a female thread receiver. More significantly, I put a 4 inch tee, instead of a wye, in the middle of my long tube. The middle part of the tee is a 4 inch female thread fitting. I set all of my valves, including the big ball valve, through a flat 4" screw cap. That big screw cap never needs to be opened, unless any of the valve sealing fails. All of the failure-prone parts are isolated in that one removable cap. To seal the valves going through that cap, I used o-rings on each side and a bit of TPFE paste.
Now it works like a charm! When I'm filling it up at home, I can just back fill it via the hose bib.
I also decided to put slosh limiters inside my tube. This was a pain but limiting the slosh should reduce some of the forward/back forces on the tube that might rip it off the roof. And a dedicated pressure relief valve set to 35 PSI.
Hope this is useful! Thanks again!
Glad the video was helpful for you and love all of the adjustments that you made. Mine is still working great, but if anything does fail I will be stuck. Also helpful for a yearly cleaning and such. Great stuff!
@@MTBTravelReview Now that I've used mine a bit, I wish I had used a wye like you did, instead of a tee. But I couldn't find a wye with a screw cap. What I've found is that to really use the air pressure to get a good "long" shower, I need to leave a little bit of empty room in the tank, so there is a sufficient volume of compressed air. Your wye leaves a little volume for that.
@@sl0wb0at ahhh, solid point that I’ve never really consider… still no perfect solution then. Maybe a ywe with an extension that has a screw cap?
@sl0wb0at What did you put in the tube to mitigate the slosh?
There's a clean out cap called a Tom Cap which you can cement inside a pvc union. I did that, but drilled out most of the cap itself so water would mostly flow. RUclips user Eric enjoys earth did something similar with drain covers. Or you could fill your big pipe with wiffle balls. Good luck!
Has to be the best step by step video w actual sizes what u need how to drill it seal it etc etc. CONGRATS best video bar none thank you Sir 👍
Cheers man!
The spade bit drilling made my eyes hurt. you don't work up to a spade bit. They create their own pilot hole!
Hahaha. I prefer to learn the hard way. It work though!
Hello friend 👋😀, what I just saw is spectacular, it is very ingenious THANK YOU VERY MUCH. A BIG HUG FROM SAN JUAN ARGENTINA 🇦🇷🤜🤛
If using city water, use the pressure in hose to charge the system while filling up! You don't need to manually pump up the system unless you are remote and don't have access to pressurized city water. Otherwise, nice system!
Wow I'm really impressed! Thanks 4 sharing...
Nice video. Great how you start the video and give us all we need and don't just jump in to project. Appreciate it. I have built some off grid outdoor showers that I made a pvc chamber that was separate from an old hot water heater. I would have to pump it like 30 time to get a decent shower. I later found an old vw 12v air pump that ran off a battery. I did'nt take long to pressurize the hot water tank and enjoy a shower with two showerheads at the same time.
Cheers!
Great video bro! Thanks for sharing your design. Of all the ones that I've been looking to get an idea of how to build one, this is the best!!!
Cheers man. Happy to help!
Best solar shower video out there- THANK YOU!
No, thank you!
Thanks for the good video, and showing me a way to update the one I have. I want to slightly pressurize the water, and the bike valves are a great idea.
As you’ve shared your great ides, I’ll share my tip. To mount the shower, I used threaded rods and put fuel line over them. Bent them around to fit over the shower, and then threaded them directly into holes in my cross bars, put nylocks on the bottom, and been going strong for 4 years. 👌🏽🤙🏽
Thanks for the kind words and for the tip. Great idea with the threaded rods!
I have watched a few of these and this is the best by far….
Thank you!
"Almost killed my neighbor at 30 psi." I was rolling, lol. Well done. Nice project and excellent video. Quick and to the point.
Haha cheers man
Me* lol
this is one of the better builds I've seen for these solar showers. excellent job!
Thanks!
Tip for beginners to fill easier if near town water pressure , crack the ball valve open up top attach hose output to town water and turn taps on till water rises out of ball valve shes full ready to heat just turn off taps and close ball valve.
Solid advice!
Super smart
Correct. Alternatively, with town pressure you could leave the valve shut to fill to town pressure, ie, to pre pressurise the vessel, while it would hold a little less water it would be ready to go without pumping up.
One of the best videos I have seen out there .... great step by step of this
Cheers!
this is awesome thanks answered a lot of my problems I am having building mine ... the way you set up the video is great
Happy to help!
thanks again @@MTBTravelReview
Its a great build all right, but just like you its great to watch other people do it and then do what you think is best. So with that in mind the only improvement I would make on yours if I were building one would be to have the "air in" schrader type valve fitted on the same plane as the pressure relief valve. Reason......so it cant get damaged or bent, if the pipe rolls or something knocks it either on the vehicle or in the garage when its not in use...... because to replace it could be a bit of a bugger if it did. Just sayin'
Just out of interest how would you replace the valves if the did need replacing?
Regarding the valve, I don't think there is any perfect placement. Placing the valve at the top would make it tough to my bike pump hose to reach. I have had the presta valve bend once already. Luckily, the core of the presta valve is the only part that can really bend and it's replaceable, so it's a pretty easy fix. If the valves need replacing, things get a bit more complex, so I will cross that bridge if/when I get there. haha. Worst case, I'd have to cut out a section and replace it completely, but I don't see that happening any time soon. It's been pretty bomb proof so far.
Nice job man, but put some black painted 5 or 6 inch hose clamps to attach it to camper. Just say'n
Thought about hose clamps, but sticking with the ratchet strap because using 1 ratchet strap makes it really easy to take on and off as needed.
Smart move using the ball joint. I like it!
Cheers! I was pretty happy to find the solution. It has worked flawlessly to date.
Now the thing I see that I would do different than what everyone is doing is I would make a smaller diameter tube and make it square and depending on the size of your rv/truck/etc you can add rows for what ever volume you need. This distributes the weight evenly and it also is more surface area for the water to heat up. You could also make it hinged so it could be angled toward the sun. I have seen a similar design from a friend and it would get super hot like too hot but that was in Texas. If I knew I would be dealing with that I might make a cold water mix. You could also just make a separate pvc pipe pump that has a valve for filling but also a valve that connects to the water so you could pressurize it first then release it. Then you could judge the size you need for the length of shower you want. I also have a 12v outlet in the back of my Element and I have a airpump for my tires that I could set to 30 psi and just push a button when its starts to fade.
Do they make square pvc?
@@MTBTravelReview just using right angle connectors to form a grid shape.
Good in theory, but every joint is a potential leak, especially when you have a square matrix on top of a moving vehicle. It seems like it would be subject to constant small shear forces just going down the road. The design in the video also allows you to use most of your rack for other things rather than using it just for the solar shower.
Tks for posting. The ball valve is excellent idea. I built mine with the 4" screw in cap with the rubber seal and it still leaks pressure. Time to modify!
Happy to help!
PTFE pipe thread sealant.
@@markburnham3637 need to constantly open and close to refill and empty. Ball valve is very convenient.
Ok this is great! I like the ball valve idea! I never liked the screw on cap, this is genius!
It has worked flawlessly so far! So easy to use. You don’t want to know how long I stood in Lowe’s before I figured that one out though… 🤣🤣
I like the ball valve idea. I plan on making one but instead of pressurizing it I plan on using a 12v RV pump on the output. I already have the pump setup.
Solid idea!
Schrader valve instead of presta.
I love the way u innovate
Why thank you
You could have used PVC pressure pipe and not be worried about the PSI. Also Id have used a 4x2 wye instead of a straight 4” and you could have saved joints and money. Otherwise it's a great design!
Appreciate the insight man! There is definitely room for improvement if I ever make another.
Awesome video building this on the weekend
Cheers man. Mine is still working like a charm!!
@@MTBTravelReview sweet, much cheaper then buying one and comes with a story after I make it with my daughter. Thanks 😊
Nice. I built a U-shaped 12gallon and wrapped it around a 320 watt solar panel but I used only two air valves. takes longer to fill, but super frugal and easy to pressurize. Water always seems to be hot. Video on my channel.
Fantastic video. Thank you for discussing the thought & experimental process on the selection of the parts. Fabulous video.
Nice design, thank you
No, thank you!
0:45 - WHOAaaa!! - looks similar to a potato gun I once built!
2:32 - that ball valve thru , , 👍
It does have some potato gun characteristics. Luckily, a much lower PSI. Haha.
Ball valve was a game changer! Works like a dream.
Curious about the decision to use the WYE hub rather than another elbow at the other end. An elbow would reduce the total number of joints and would reduce the cost, but I may be missing some obvious advantage of the WYE hub.
I can only reach up that high on the roof if I stand on the wheel of my camper. Otherwise I would need to carry around a step stool of some sort.
you can buy reducer bushings instead of the 4" cap for the garden hose spigot much easier
Exactly what I inquire. Thanks buddy.
I watched a few and on the fill they used teflon plumbers tape for a good seal. I would add a relief valve as well as a pressure gauge
Yup, many do, which is great until you realize you have to open and close it every time you use it. Then you are constantly using plumbers tape, which sucks. Also, there is a pressure release valve, and no need for a gauge because the bike pump I use has one. :-)
@@MTBTravelReview I'm not sure why the person I seen had the gauge extra precautions I guess
@@MTBTravelReview Funny enough, I was wondering why no gauge as I watched the build and then remembered that you were using a push bike air pump which would have one on it. I'll be using my vehicle mounted air compressor so I'll put a gauge and a pressure relief safety valve to keep everything safe. Well done on the video production; "show, don't tell" was perfectly executed.
Didn't notice but you surpose to give the pipe a quarter turn when you glue it. Maybe difficult for 5 inch maybe thats why.
I tried for sure, but you are right, not always easy! Sometimes I used a rubber mallet to make sure it is set in all of the way.
Badass man. Btw I love the Kates bars...
Thanks man! And yea, they are delicious!
well done :) how many liters can it take?
A very nice build. This all works, as long as there is no solar on the roof, as this setup will create unwanted shade areas on the panels, rendering them pretty much useless.
No solar - no problem and a very viable solution.
Thank you. Plenty of options to work around with solar, if you plan accordingly. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Use ABS instead of PVC. Get more pressure and its already black so no need to paint
Just don’t pressurize black abs beyond 20psi…
awesome job! getting ready to build one this week and will definitely use your video as the guide. Thank you for taking so much time to provide all details!!
Thank you and you are welcome!! Fun build and still working like a dream. I have since added an 8 gallon backup tank so I can transfer over as needed.
@@MTBTravelReview Awesome. bought some parts today to start the build. 2 quick questions. Is there any particular reason you chose a "wye" instead of an elbow at the opposite end from the spigot? 4" SCH 40 is rated to 220 PSI so I would think installing the auto vent isn't really necessary. I want to keep it simple but also safe... Thanks in advance!
@@patrickrose2508 I could lie about the WYE and say aerodynamics, but no, no particular reason at the time. Haha. Just seemed to work best. That said, the WYE works well because it provides extra space for pressurized air. Others have tried to use an elbow with less room for air and they said the system didn’t pressurize right. Regarding the added release valve: it’s def not necessary, but has been useful to release air as opposed to opening the ball valve, because the ball valve makes a large “pop” sound when you try to release all excess pressure at once. Hopefully that makes sense. Pressure can just as easily be released via the presta valve, but you have to sit there and hold it in to do so.
Excellent video very complete and very well thought out build. Thank you so much
Happy to help!
Now that was really cool
Absolutely cool... thanks so much!!! Could you make it 6 ft to hold more water ?
I don’t see why not. It would just take more pumping if you run a shower when half empty.
I was just thinking you could add one more piece, a hose hookup, directly to the ball valve end. Then you could just screw the hose end onto it (provided it has a floating collar), open the valve, and fill that way. The system would absorb the pressure from the houses water system, then you just close up the ball valve, bleed whatever excess pressure off, and you're in business. No pumping required!
Might not work well if the house water is under a ton of pressure, but from what I was seeing, it would probably be safe in most cases.
Sparmax Airbrush company makes a 12 volt single cylinder compressor (I've used it to do airbrush tattoos at the markets. It will run up to 60 PSI, comes with alligator clips for your battery and has an built in Auto shut-off switch ... as any spray painter will tell you the further away from the pump, you line pressure will drop. I mounted mine in the front of my tear drop by the battery compartment and run an 8 foot Airbrush hose. I leave it hooked to the tank 24/7, but only hook up the battery when my wife or me shower... pretty simple and I can also use the pump on my tires and/or paddle boards, if needed as an airbrush hose you can purchase an 8 mm quick release fitting and attach a thumb lock tire hose.... just a thought. Side note; Sparmax invented oil free compressors back in 1990 and many companies make copies...in America, Australia, Japan and England they are easy to purchase, I have one from 1995 at one of our stalls. The one on my tear drop is a year old. Iwata sells them under their logo, but Sparmax makes it for them.
Great advice! I don’t mind hand pumping, since it’s only takes minute, but this would work for many others I’m sure.
Dude...great video! Thank you for spending the time to make it so thorough. Any changes you'd make?
Happy to help! Honestly, no major changes at this point. The only thing I am entertaining is another chamber for more water. It holds enough for two showers, but 4 would be even better.
Do you have to worry about water freezing in the pipe? I would like to build one of these system and install it in my backyard. In winter, night temperatures can go down to 18 and there can be entire week overcast without much sunlight.
Impressive design in the video though.
Appreciate it. It’s been working amazing, but is definitely not something I would use in low temperature like you are talking about. PVC becomes fragile in colder temps, so pressuring it would not be a good idea, with or without water. The water could also freeze inside and expand, thus shattering the pvc. This design is only meant for spring/summer temps.
Do a review on wompatuck state park or Ames nowell state park
ask nicely
Could you do a double capacity by putting a u joint at the front and add another long tube? Also about how much does it weigh with water?
In theory, yes, but pressure would be lost much faster. Also, have to re-pressure between showers and the more volume without water, the harder it will be to pressurize.
I will build this🤞🏼
I know it's been a few years, but I made my own version of this. You have great advice. My issue is that turning on the water quickly creates a vacuum and the flow stops. Right now I only have shredder valve that I pressurize with. Is there air coming in the Presta valve when the water is running?
That is an interesting issue that I haven’t personally dealt with. There isn’t any air coming into the system when is under pressure and the presta valve remains closed. The water will actually keep running once the pressure is gone as well with now issue. Perhaps it’s because mine has a down spout and gravity is playing a bigger role? I am at a loss on this one. Sorry!
Very nice build, but you should let people that a Presta valve requires an adapter, in order to use a standard air hose like you would find at a gas station. Most folks probably are not aware of that. Thanks for the video.
I explain the difference in the video and point out the fact that I use a presta, which works with 90% of standard bike pumps. Thanks!
Plenty of room to put BOTH for convenience/versatility….
Pretty dang cool! I need to figure out how to pour water into it, versus filling it via a hose. Any ideas? Thanks!
Also, my tank will be stored vertically, versus horizontally.
Cheers man. Definitely a few tweaks that could be made if you are going to store verifiably, but that’s what makes it fun! Either a good funnel or a transfer hose could work just as well as a standard hose. Let us know what you figure out!
@@MTBTravelReview Thanks for your kind and speedy response. Will let you know! Maybe flip the Y joint over! Hmm.
Great build and video. Couldn't you use the pvc ball valve to depressurize rather than needing the separate air vent?
Thanks, and you could, but it will likely be quite loud. The small valve is a more subtle release.
How about the cleaning part. The inside needs a scrubbing after a while. What would be the safest way to make that happen.
I've had an issue with that little slime collecting in my previous system
Solid question and something I’ve definitely thought about. Best bet is likely to use a pvc safe cleaning solution. Fill, shake, let sit, rinse over and over. Luckily, this isn’t meant for potable water, so I’m not too concerned.
Perfect!!!
Does the trick!
Great video!
Cheers
GOOD JOB . THANKS !
How do you clean it out? Putting Teflon tap on pvc threads makes taking it off easier. They make 1 1/8”hole saws for 3/4” threaded fittings too.
Leave it open and let it dry. I am aware that they make the appropriate sized hole saw, but that doesn’t mean I wanted to pay for one. :-)
Did you do the pressure test with the water inside? Because water doesn't contract under pressure - comparing to the air, it won't accept too much energy and therefore the boom will not be big scary and injuring so much if it bursts.
I did not know that. Thank you for sharing! Great info.
Looks great. But the schedule 40 pvc you use says it's not recommended for pressure, as the pipe can shatter. How high can you safely pressurize the tube?
No pvc is recommended for pressure, but that is why I stay below 35 psi. There are psi rating for each type of pvc online. From what I remember it starts to get really dangerous above 150psi. Potato guns are charged up to 300, which is VERY dangerous. Pressuring any PVC is at your own risk.
@@MTBTravelReview thanks! Ran across this page, and looks like it should be safe at the low PSI we would be using for this. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html
@@MTBTravelReview thats not necessarily true. I work with PVC all the time. It depends on the type of PVC. Foam core (which is probably what you used) isn't rated for pressure, drain lines and sewer lines only, but there is PVC thats rated for higher pressure. Its used exclusively for pressure applications, mostly water. With that said, anybody working with PVC really needs to check and make sure what they have so they can make sure to use it safely
@@Thecowboy69997 thank you for the info. I am no expert, that’s for sure. Safety and research is always key.
Thanks I just built one. However I can't seem to find the quick connect brass adapter.
Found mine on Amazon
Hello, good evening, I am about to do this as a project for the science fair, I wanted to know more about exactly how many times I should pressurize, also if you could give me some suggestions. Thank you!
Very cool. With 1 tank you get two showers, so you have to pressurize twice. I pump to about 30 psi for a 2 and a half minutes of water pressure. Shower turning it on to get wet, then off to soap, then on to rinse.
Very nice!!! Just a question. Why not ABS pipe that is already black? Cheers
Just wasn’t readily available near me. Def an easier option!!
ABS is not rated for potable water, IF that is what someone is looking for.
Could you double it up for a longer pressurized shower????
I mean, it sounds like it would make sense, but remember, the bigger you go, the more you have to pump to keep the right pressure. This size gives you the perfect 3 minute shower, then refill and repeat. If you try to do a second shower with a half empty tube it takes a lot more work to build pressure with the bike pump I use.
Did you use pressure rated PVC because all I can find around my area in 4/6" size pipe is "not for pressure use" PVC and abs.
I used standard 4” Home Depot PVC. It is not specialty pressure rated PVC. I’ve been told it can handle pressure up to 300 psi, but to be safe, I never go above 30psi and it’s more than enough for a 2-3 shower
Awesome!!
Thanks!
fantastic...
Love this build. Is your shower time limited to 3ish minutes due to the pressure or water capacity? If pressure, roughly how many showers can you get out of this before refilling? Looking into options for my wife and I.
3 minutes due to water pressure. I can usually get two conservative showers out of 1 tank. I have added a simple backup 8 galling water storage tank next to this one for more shower potential.
Why presta valve? you would have to get adapter for many public air compressors.
I already have a presta foot pump on hand since I am a cyclist. “No electricity needed” was the goal here, so a compressor wasn’t a factor. You could easily use a Schrader valve if you wish!
My favorite build so far on youtube with the WYE and the ball valve, how's it doing so far?
Cheers man. It has been working perfectly! Not a single issue as of yet and the ball valve makes it so easy to fill/empty.
Thanks man, i combined your design with a little bit of my own touch this past wknd and built and L shape system (6.5 gals total), i went with ABS pipes and totaled out to be about $135. Ryobi has a cordless tire inflator so I'm going with that instead of a bikebump
@@hv4285 awesome to hear that my design helped man! Tire inflator will make it much faster. Solid idea. Let me know how it works!
Yeeee! Agreed! I’m building this set up right now!! What a great idea! Glad to hear yours is still working. Y’all should try pressurizing with co2, can get a tire inflator adaptor for the co2 canister. Relatively cheap for refills, what’s your guys thoughts??
@@RadRob000 I would not use Co2. Co2 will actually flash freeze the inside ever time that you use it, and that will stress out the PVC making it more likely to become fragile and dangerous in time. It’s also hard to gauge how much air you are putting in. Floor pump or electric pump is best.
any treason you centered the outlet instead of on one edge so it would drain more completely?
Are you referring to the fill port or the spigot?
I would use quality metal ball valves. PVC Valves are crap even in simple applications like rhis.
My pvc ball valve has worked flawlessly for over 2 years? Not a ton of use in this scenario, so seems to fit the bill
@@MTBTravelReview they are notorious for cracking...
do you know how many gallons this holds? great video bro!
Cheers! 1 foot of 4” PVC = .6825 gallons, so this holds just over 3.5 gallons. Gets about 2 good showers. I just added an 8’ holding tank so I can fill it twice with that. You dont want to make a huge main chamber, as that just means you need more pressure as the water gets below half tank.
Nice! What kind of PVC did you use - I see 'schedule 40' is the kind made for pressurized applications but its so heavy! Did you just use regular DWV? Drain waste vent?
I used regularly schedule 40. It’s really not that heavy.
Any idea how heavy that tube is when it's full of water?
I'm an over-the-road truck driver, and that would actually be a great device to carry around when I'm stuck overnight with no access to a shower.
But, I would need to fill it up with water, before I leave the house.
So I wonder if it would be too heavy to move around and attach to my truck after I get to my terminal.
About 4 gallons worth of water heavy. Pretty easy to move around as needed
@MTBTravelReview
Sounds good.
How many Liters is in total ?
Heard sun weakens plastic. Paint helps maybe.
I can certainly weaken it over time, but my camper is stored in a garage, so it is protected when not in use.
does more air pressure comclude in longer showertime. We have something here that called high pressure pvc and u can stress it to up 16 bars.
Yes and no. If you release the pressure very slowly, then yes, but if you release more pressure because you have more, then it’ll go faster. Even with high pressure pvc, there are still inherent dangers from blowout and connection points, etc, so I prefer to stay below 40 PSI. Gives a solid 2-3 minute show. Any longer and you will only get 1 shower per tank.
I have a concern about this Plastic ABS,or PVC Pipe...??..
Won't it shatter in the Sunshine, and or Blow Up from excess Heating...??.. Please let me know with a simple response.... Tanks...
hi, i see you have squaredrop and do mountain biking trips. where does your bike live during transport, at night and while you are away from the car/camper? i am currently building my squaredrop and trying to figure out how to store the bike inside. here in CO, leaving bike outside means it will almost certainly get taken. any input appreciated.
My bike either goes in the back of my grand Cherokee or I take the front wheel off and put it into of the camper. Not as bad here as it is out West with theft.
I’m curious, is there any particular reason you used pvc vs abs pipe? Just wondering since most all how to videos I’ve seen use abs instead.
My researched showed that ABS is made of recycled or “regrind” plastic, which can make it less durable than PVC. PVC was also just easier to find with more connection option at my local store.
@@MTBTravelReview acually ABS vs PVC , PVC is more flexible and both are okay for potable water. ABS will hold 100 psi no problem. Relief valve for sure. Both PVC and ABS do not require silicone as they are sealed water tight if the glue and procedure is done correctly. Abs will work a little better as the glue will soften the abs to make for better seal on any fittings that are not made for fitting the plumbing for the project. Nice job though, get rid of the hose clamps and poly hose. Use a nice high quality coil garden hose :)
@@rodkopp1005 appreciate the insights!!
I haven’t gone through all the comments to see if anyone has brought this up. In the beginning the author said that he wanted to do his own video because of the mistakes people were making in the videos that were out there. I have a lot of suggestions to make to improve a DIY setup. I don’t like this set up for a number of reasons. We installing something into PVC take advantage of being able to drill any place you’re making a hole. Don’t add something then make it unserviceable. When he added the hose bib I believe he used some sort of locktite on the male threads of the hose bib then pushed it through his cap and then screwed a nut on the back side of these same threads pinching it between the pvc and counting on the locktite and nut to keep it from leaking. If that hose bib ever goes bad you’ll need to cut the cap off do the repair and recluse the cap. Bad idea and believe me a hose bib will go bad at some point. Use the same house bib either 3/4” or 1/2” and drill and tap the pvc and thread you hose bib in place. This way if it ever goes bad you can unthread it and replace it. There were just too many other things like the 4” Y connector with the 1” ball valve. That thing was sticking up in the air a mile. Also if you can use DWV instead of PVC it will be cheaper and weigh less. It’s also thinner which can make drilling and tapping a little trickier. Always drill and tap through a fitting and pipe. Another words drill and tap through a coupling or cap even a 90 this way you have the thickness of the pipe and the fitting to tap your threads into. I’m not going to go any further and rip this apart just understand that when making one of these you want things to be serviceable and as low to the rack as possible.The first tree limb you see will take the 1” ball valve right off. I appreciate anybody doing videos and giving me idea’s as did this guy. Even if the idea he gave me is to do my own DIY on a solar shower for over-landing, camping etc.
I pray that you typed that on a laptop, because that was quite the comment! I’d run through a list of responses, but instead of over exerting my thumbs on this tiny screen, I’ll leave you with this: no matter how good your point is, delivery is everything. And I put a mountain bike on the roof right next to that 1” ball valve, so you leave my valve alone. It’s just wonderful, IMO. Looking forward to seeing your video.
Thank you for all the information … I will try to do one …
People that live in the areas where people "boondock" have never heard the term used that way. Guess we really do live in the boondocks.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
How are you preventing legionaries disease bacteria in the pipe? Assuming the temp never goes above 60°C. And that the water is in there for +2 days.
I do not have a answer to this question, but I have never had legionnaires disease from my camper shower. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Ball valve? Please explain more...you put it but you sill it....is it open or close?
It opens be closes
Why the y connector and not putting the fill valve on the opposite end?
I stand on my campers tire, which is located in the center. Convenience.
Where could you put the pressure valve , if you can make a vertical type shower , would it work thanks
I do not know.
isn't the Presta valve also an air release valve? why need extra part and point of failure.
Valid point. It is easier to release air though, since you don’t have to stand there and hold it like a presta valve
Is it possible just to fill through the boiler drain valve that you use for the shower hose?
I don’t see why not. Just have to monitor pressure if all other openings are closed during filling.
Have you ever considered a 12 volt pump with a pressure regulator ?
If you watch the full video you will see that my goal was to use no power, so no, but you could certainly consider it if you’d like.
The huge problem I am having is with the brass boiler drain valve and the threaded bushing adapter it will not screw down far enough to get a tight fit on the 4" pvc end cap. Ieven went back to Lowes to try other valves and bushings and they are all the same they just won't thread all the way, just about midway and I have a gap of at least 1/2 in which I am pretty sure the pvc cap is not that thick to make a solid tight connection. Any advice?
That’s a tough spot. I had a tough time tightening that connection on mine as well. Mine isn’t insanely tight. I could spin the drain valve if I really tried to, but the watertight sealant I used is keep a strong water and air tight seal, so I haven’t had any issues.
@@MTBTravelReview well I found a way to make it super tight, I just added an O-ring, now I am set to move on thanks for your reply and your awesome vid I hope u get a million views someday
@@divineavengers sweet and thanks man! 👊🏼
Here in 2024. Runs about $220 for this set up now.
Inflation always wins…
The filling part should be at the end, not in the middle... there wil be an air gap this way.
It’s been working great for almost 3 years… 🤔
Why not use black pipe instead?
Not easy to find locally…