94 S10 4.3L Risky Rod Bearing Replacement - See Disclaimer
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
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See Bearing Removal Here... • 94 S10 4.3L Rod Bearin...
See Engine Clean Up Here ... • 94 S10 Engine Clean Up
Disclaimer -Normally rod bolts should never be reused, but this video is attempt to get a few more miles out of an old engine.
A risky repair that has worked for me in the past. This is NOT a professional repair. I am NOT a licensed mechanic.
Just wanted to thank you, watched your video a few times and then proceeded to do the same thing step by step, the vehicle runs great now no tic at all, great oil pressure. Oh and its under forced aspiration too ;) still running great!!!
youngs2003 how long did it last
Yeah, is it still running?
I love to hear so called mechanics say this shouldn’t be done
My dad is old school and this is exactly what he did to my 350 in my Camaro and the crank was scored pretty good he just polished it with 6000 grit sand paper and put new bearings back in it and I drove it for over another 90k miles before selling it to a friend who drove it another 70k before selling it
It wasnt scored bad then. If dad paper fixes the crank jrnal its not pretty scored.
This repair technique has been used many times with complete success. As long as the crank journals are not scored or out of round, this method will work perfectly. As an extra step you might also measure the crank journals to insure that they are standard size (or under) and check the clearance with Plastiguage after a test fit to insure that it is within spec.
I'm about to order some plastic Gage now
Old school mechanic skills ...not to much of these guys around almost all would say replace the motor....
Ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
Thanks for your info, and you are so right about paying attention to how much force you are using. This does indicate a good stud or bad. Never thought to mention it on the video. I will add a note on the video soon. Thanks for helping to keep this video accurate as possible, Much appreciated!
Great job and yes this is a legit fix providing your crank is fine. Most garages, especially dealers, its all about liability. Others just have parts changers, not mechanics that can actually repair something. What's even worse is trying to find a machine shop that can do the machining they used to do. A Real lose of talent today.
We are very fortunate to have several machine shops nearby for all kinds of engine work. One of which I have dealt with for over 30 years. Even he was not willing to assemble a bottom end unless I replaced the rod bolts, crank ground, new pistons and machine the rod journals. If anything thing goes wrong with the engine, he is liable and also ruins his reputation. I see his point, so I do this type of cheat on my own. Thanks for watching!
Did this on a friends Caravan 3.3L V6 after it was run with no oil and trashed several of the rod bearings. It sounded terrible prior to the repair. The crank had some visible wear, we smoothed it out as best we could with some super fine sand paper, then cleaned it well. Put new bearings in. It made a little noise at first start up but quieted right down and has run fine ever since with no knocking at all. That was a few months ago and it has been on a couple of road trips since then too. So far, so good... but like you say, it's a risk. If it hadn't worked he wouldn't have been any worse off than when he started, and as it sits now he's gotten a few extra months out of it for very minimal repair cost.
@@kilner79at last a few years. It could still be running, it still ran when they traded it in to upgrade to a suburban.
I've replaced bearings in a few cars with the engine still in place and had no problems.
Oh man,this fingerprint is an oldie urban legend at it's finest,its been 30 years i didn't hear about that,brings back a lot of memories
Hi,
I watched your video closely and was able to replace my con rod bearings in my 97 vw jetta. It had a bad knock when it leveled out from accelerating so I thought it was the mains. There were copper shavings in the oil pan and one rod bearing was very worn and coming apart. The car is quiet now after just the rod bearings. Thank you.
Anthony Comeau Glad to help! Your comment is also much appreciated!
Anthony Comeau i
How long did it run after replacing the bearings?
Anthony Comeau is it still running?
Yo, Anthony,
It's been 3 years since you did the bearing swap.
How many miles did you get out of it?
Nice video work.I guess as long as the rod,cap,and crank journal show no sign's of distortion,just replacing the bearing's would work.
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Is it necessary to apply blue thread locker into the connecting rod bolts and nuts?
I did changed rod bearings without using thread locker, I'm concerned now the rod bolts might
become loose.
Thanks
I've got an old '58 Chevy with a 235 that has a bad rod bearing. I just might try this. Thanks.
It has worked for e in the past. I have the truck running but not complete. Sounds good and has lots of oil pressure.
About to be doing this in my chevy blazer 1993 4 door, gonna be doing it with the engine installed (hopefully) almost able to inspect the crank have to get a bunch of things out the way, starter, exhaust, trans is almost out, once i got the pan dropped which its unbolted just no room to drop, ran the ol 4.3 low on oil, she sounded terrible but not a rod knock yet, managed to get us home
Had to start it to move it where it needed to be worked on, she still had the sound but for a second it was silent, hopefully shes gonna take these new bearings like a pro and run just as it did before, being that under the truck is messy i have a brand new tarp im gonna lay under the cradle to keep dirt away
Gotta inspect and order parts wish me luck will be coming back to this video forsure
Need bearings at the least towel rags
Assembly lube and lock tite im alse debating on using arp rod cap bolts theyre 60$ new great video
Hope all goes well!
Actually did this to my Cadillac DeVille a while ago with a friend of mine. My cylinders moved a lot more smoothly, though, and we did it with the engine in the car.
L26 4.9 liter engine in a 1991 model. I'd still consider them very reliable since it only started knocking after driving about 14 miles with zero oil pressure and zero oil in the engine. The only reason it stopped was because it stalled... The AC clutch engaged and the car had always had a problem with that. Of course it fired right back up afterwards and got home, where it continued to start up no problem while we tried to figure out what the hell went wrong!
Good to know this has worked for others as well. Thanks greatly for your comment!
the 70deg thing, if you look at 350 torque specs for conecting rod it says 45 ftlbs
Great video. I am replacing all my connecting rod and main bearings tomorrow on my 2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9 liter magnum. The bearings weren't bad just mild wear but I am replacing them anyway and also the oil pump. The journals look like polished stainless steel, shiny and smooth!
You should have no issues with yours.That's the best time to change them, before the crank gets chewed. Hope all goes well!
@@MudRFunR I tell you what. I will drive 1,000 miles on this bottom-end rebuild and then give you an update.
@@MudRFunR Quick question: on the rod bearings, do you just tap them down a bit to remove, I.E. push the piston up into the cylinder a bit, then attach the nuts and pull cap in place. The video was a bit ambiguous on that.
@@markjones8632 Yes, I usually use the wooden end of a hammer or a small rubber hammer and tap on the bolt studs until I can pull it apart. You may need to turn the crank a few times to get them all off. Hope this helps!
@@markjones8632 Update sounds great, thanks!
Good vid, i am in the process of finding out which big end has gone on my ford s-max (UK) and doing it while the engine is in the car, should be fun. as soon as i heard the knocking i stopped and it only went a few hundred yards then i got it towed home, so hoping no major damage done :)
Very good info in the vid, taken all on-board, keep up the good work!
I enjoy watching these videos, they are very informative. Just wanted to say thank you, and keep it up for it is greatly appreciated.
If the rod bolts require torque/angle, they must not be reused. These are stretched to yield and this second time around they are likely to fail! ALWAYS REPLACE ANY FASTENER THAT IS TORQUE TO YIELD! Thank-you, Steve
Thanks for your comment Steve. I do realize that rod bolts are not to be re-used. I should have made a mention of that in the video. If you will notice that I changed the video title and added a disclaimer in the description. Thank you for pointing that out! You have helped me keep my channel as honest as possible.
MudRFunR If it didn't go beyond 60lbs or so it'll be fine
Check you manufacturer's manual. In my Mazda the torque to yield bolts have a manufacturer's spec for bolt length (i.e. the torque to yield bolts could be reused if they haven't stretched beyond the specification listed).
@@hhhhhhhhhhhhh4927 Yes that is true.
Was taking a look at this video for replacing the bearings on a 350 chev i picked up a year ago for my K5 and was told ran but I just got it apart and looks like the last owner replaced the rod bearings already. They look to be a bit warn on the edges and scored but perfectly new in the center. One of the mains is chowdered up bad on an edge too. Since he was tinkering around in there i'm not sure if he plastigauged the bearings or not and am not taking that chance again. I'm not made of money so I think i'll try one of those cheap crank kits from advance. Looking to get some of those aluminum 64 cc heads with the 2.02" intake valves and a nice lopey cam for it :) i'm not looking for a race engine, just something to put around and maybe smoke tires once in a while. Might even pick up a set of rods and flat top pistons for it
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It's great to hear what my viewers are up to! Hope all goes well for you.
It looks like you did a pretty good job. The only things I would do different would be to use special clean-room wipes when wiping down the journals, and a new oil pan gasket+clean that oil pan!!!
definitely worth cleaning out the gunk 😆
MR. MudRFunR I want to thank you for the video on Bearing replacement I know you gave a disclaimer on this sort of repair but it work fine for me, I fallow your instructions to the letter I'm not mechanically incline, but I fallow your instructions the best I could and everything worked out better than I thought it would.Ones again thank you.
Your comment is much appreciated! Good to know that this was helpful!
That is a very slick move, if you really have your bleep together it can be pulled off , .... good luck...
4.6 SOHC ford has 140k. Been knocking for 10 years. One mech says it's piston/rod pin knock. Other mechanics say it's the bearings. All mechanics want to pull the engine out and overhaul it. I say no. One of these summers I will remove the engine and give the bearings a look. If it is the bearings that are knocking I will use your video as master advice. If it is okay with you? The GT tranny works very well. The only problem is the engine. It overheated in 2009. Blew heads. I had heads overhauled. Mech slipped heads back in. Rod knocking began ever since. I don't want to let go of my Mustang. I will fix it soon. Thank you for the video. Oh, by the way, all the mechanics I have seen in regards I have asked them about changing the bearings only. They give a look and respond that it will not work. I had heard that replacing only the main bearing works well when done well. I will see about this project in the near future. As of today the car still runs. thank you once again.
Very useful and thorough, thanks for posting.
When would you say bearings are bad enough to need replacement? I got a 2.8 sitting on my stand that im getting ready to install in a 87 s10. It makes 70psi cold, 20psi hot. A bit hesitant about opening up the bottom end.
When you can see copper.
Good repair, clear instructions, can help a guy out who wants the motor runnin but not having to remove the head if the top end is still good. As far as I know, you can touch the bearing surface you must have clean hands with nitrile gloves not cotton as you don’t want any foreign material like fibers to go between the surfaces of the bearing and crank as they cause scoring, even fibers from paper towels.
I used paper towels to coat the journals with oil. Seemed to be ok. The truck is sold, so I'm not sure if bearings are holding up. Thanks for the info!
Thank you for this video, I'm going to attempt this on my 4.3 Blazer because it has a bad ticking noise from down under the oil pan. Will let you know what happens
Yes, please let me know.
I got an 02 windstar that recently started knocking b/c the water hide popped off as I was driving on the freeway and excessive smoke coming out the exhaust causing a peament knock aftet I redid the hose and filled w water, not b/c of insufficient oil which is now black and burnt; hadn't drove it since and it's been causing me extreme mental anguish anfd am about to do the same! Great video btw!
A hot engine can really do damage. I've blown 2 engines in my mud truck cause it ran hot and I was having too much fun to quit. Sorry to hear about your van. Have you started working on it?
Probably a stupid question but would this work for my 2000 Mustang GT 4.6 liter? At least for a little while I plan on doing a complete overhaul of the motor but I just started working and need to get back and forth for a few weeks.
There's always a bunch of nay-sayers out there telling you "It won't work" or "It won't last", and I've learned that damn near every one of them has no first hand knowledge at all. They are just regurgitating something they were told god-only-knows how many years ago. In the last few years, engines have COMPLETELY CHANGED. The metallurgy is nothing like it was decades ago. I pulled the head from a Toyota a while back, and in all the sludge (and darkness and exhaustion), I missed two head bolts underneath the cam bearings. I made a little press out of two head bolts and a pc of angle iron to try to "pop" the head loose. Of course, it failed, duh. However, in the experience, I realized that I had gapped open the rear of the head prolly almost 1/8" WITH TWO HEAD BOLTS STILL IN IT. Since then, I have done a head gasket on my 4200 and on a 2.2 Cavalier, and NEITHER ONE did I even bother to flatten the head. I have the ability to check for cracks myself. The 4200, I liked, so I put new head bolts, but the 2.2, I could care less and just cleaned it up, threw on a new gasket, threw the bolts back in, and tightened them until they felt "tight enough" and called it good. Both engines are running like clocks. There is no fkn way that I flexed that toyota head 1/8" from end to end, and .008 - .010 variance in head surface flatness is gonna make that engine fail. Just like here with these bearings... That crank material is so damn hard, as long as it polishes up relatively smooth, and it doesn't look like small animals have been chewing on it or some shit, you can mate up new bearings and it'll probably be just fine. The world is changing very VERY rapidly, and the word-of-mouth, "Oh my god! Don't do that! It won't work!" bullshit is way too slow in catching up and having people realize that stuff is different than it used to be. There's probly a few thing that mechanics did 30 years ago that can trash a modern engine (off hand, I can think of disco the battery while running to test the alternator nowadays can risk the ecm/pcm) and there's a lot of stuff a mechanic wouldn't have dreamed of doing 30 years ago, that'll work just fine today.
As mentioned in the video, I have successfully done this on 2 other engines. Thanks. It's good to know the whole world hasn't been brainwashed!
Meh, don't have to worry about rod bolts unless it's built or HO type engine. Word of warning, check backs of bearings, in the 80s they installed 0.005 under/over at factory and they're stamped as such.
I usually don't bother with new bolts either. I just mentioned it or otherwise someone would have let me know in the comments that this is not done the proper way.
hello, this is an excellent video, thank you for this work,,, please I will change my connecting rod bearings on a mustang V6 ci 200 from 1966,, can you tell me the tightening torque of the bearings,,, thank you a lot
Glad you liked the video. I honestly don't know a lot about Ford engines. Wikipedia sometime has links to that type of information. Search Wikipedia for 1966 Mustang. You might find something.
can you do this with engine still in the car?
+Matt Lenz On most rear wheel drive and 4x4 vehicles, you can't even remove the oil pan without lifting the engine. Myself, I would not anyway because it would be too easy for dirt to fall into a bearing or something when reassembling.
Great Video! I'm replacing both the crankshaft and rod bearings but wanted to know what replacement size clevit bearings I'll need? What ever factory was? Do I just go with original factory one's or do I go slightly undersize? Will the old bearings back side be marked what they were in thousands / size? I get and understand the emery cloth clean up and pre lube concepts etc... too.
Thanks in advance!
what led you to do this type repair. knock? or just maintenance?
+Dyon Leblanc A bottom end knock
Got it. Was it also giving a sound above?
Sorry, I forgot to reply. No noise on top. Just a knock. If the valves are ticking that could be low oil pressure which could mean bad main bearings.
Bearing replacement is never a MAINTENANCE ITEM. Changing the oil on time, is maintenance to prevent from having bearing wear.
Nice tip using the plastic hoses to protect the shaft.
My dad taught me that tip many years ago. Glad I could share it.
Always replace the stock rod bolts with ARP chrome moly. That is the weak link @ high RPMs.
Totally legit.
Beware, if you do this you'll enjoy ridiculous satisfaction.
Risky but it can work.
im doing this right now,, my engine has ALOT of varnish in it,, should I try to clean it or leave it alone.
I Got A 5.7 Hemi In A 2015 Ram 2500. I'm Gonna Be Gapping The Rings For Boost Later. Reason I'm Doing This Is The Engine Got A Bad Lifter And Heads Need To Come Off. My Thoughts Are: New Rods Bolts (1 Time Use) And Reuse The Rod Bearings (150,000 Miles). The Reason I Think Re Using The Rod Bearings Is A Good Idea Is Because I Believe 150k Should Be Enough Miles To Get The Rod Bearing Clearance Worn Into A "Race Engine Clearance". And If I Put New Bearings The Clearances Might Be A Little Tight For Boost. Do You Think The Old Rod Bearings Can Be Reused When The Caps Are Removed Or Must They Replaced?
Anytime that you're re-using rod bolts, you're taking a risk. I've done it many times. Worked well most of the time.
@@MudRFunR Yea Rod Bolts Were Replaced. Got The Job Done. Only Took Me 26 Hours To Replace Cam, Lifters, Valve Springs And Gap All Piston Rings. Tons Of Metal In The Pan From The Wiped Out Cam Lobe. Also Found A Cracked 2nd Compression Ring On One Piston. Rod Bearings Looked Great Too. So Far She's Running Really Nice With New Cam. Had To Change The Oil Like 4 Times. Kept Coming Out Like Nail Polish From All The Residual Cam Metal I Couldn't Clean Out. Fingers Crossed Let's See How Much Life She Has.
hey sir got a 350 with bottom end knock but bearing looks good what could it be it had copper shavings in the oil pan
Copper color shavings could indicate a badly worn bearing. Did you check all the rod bearings and the main bearings?
Did someone have one of the bearing journals machined and use wrong size bearing ? Cracked flexplate ? Over rev and stretch a rod big end ? Loose piston wrist pin ?
Thank you very muchfor this step by step detailed video!
This is what I need to do to my blazer it's knocking a little when oil thins out or gets low, but I keep Lucas oil stabilizer in it.
I just spent an entire day getting an inch of gunk out of the oil pan from a vehicle that had Lucas ran in it for years.soon as you hit it with degreaser it turns into some kind of stuff like gasket sealant in there and took two days cleaning oil galleries and hopefully I got it all out.ive rebuilt hundreds of motors and never seen anything like that in a motor before and hopefully never again.not a big fan of it now! just sayin do whatever you want.
And the beveled side of rodcap goes toward crank
I have an 87 f150 with a 5.0 and I can tell that the bearings are worn. It's not knocking or anything but I can hear the clatter of the bearings on cold starts. Can I get away with just replacing the bearings? The engine runs great and oil pressure looks fine. Never had any true problems out of the engine (Besides the rear main leak and the pan gasket leak). I don't want to have to replace any connecting rods or the crank
Did you also replace the main bearings on the crank? It it possible to roll the upper bearing half out without completely removing the crank? Maybe this is another video that I did not find. Thank you.
No, I only replaced the rod bearings. I have never seen anyone change main bearings without removing the crank.
ive heard of people welding the screen tube to the pump.,., have u ever tried this?
You don't use Plastigage?
I probably should have but I've done this without it twice before with good success.
Wear talc free rubber gloves and don't use paper towels. Spend a couple dollars for lint free rags. Lint is a big no no.
I did not know that. Thank you.
I think this vid will help me greatly. Thank you!!!
would it be worth spending 200$ on a re-ring kit for a 4.3 vortec? the truck runs, but it knocks. it comes with all of the bearings and gaskets.
Hi, in this case, it is better to get ready to pay for new crank and connecting rods. The engine needs to be open for more check ups. In many cases you can find a crankshaft at very low price.
Great video I realy in joy it am working on my 98 pathfinder 3.3 lt am waiting the weather gets good
Hope all goes well for you.
This is going to be my first time doing it so I finally got the oil pan off but for some reason I have to work underneath the vehicle this is just one of those trial and errors if it doesn't work all wreck the vehicle if it does work I'll drive the vehicle until it dies my question to you the only question because I'm underneath the vehicle I'm trying to remove rod bearing cap but it won't budge do I have to tap it or do I turn the crankshaft for it to pop off thank you for your time have a blessed life
Hi, how did you know what size bearings to use? Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. The bearing size is usually stamped on the back of each bearing. You need to make sure that they are all the same. Some engines have been known to be assembled with different size bearings. Hope this reply is not too late to be of help to you.
an older mechanic told me this is the way it was done, but nowadays everybody wants to stick you with an engine rebuild.
In some cases it would be best to do a complete engine rebuild but if all else is ok and the crank is not too far gone, I've had good luck in doing it this way. Most garages will not do this for anyone because it is risky that something else could fail in the engine and they don't want to be liable for any future damage that could happen if it's only a partial rebuild. Can't say I blame them. The machine shop that I deal with will not assemble a short block for anyone unless they have new pistons and get the connecting rods resized. (for liability reasons and to save their reputation if something fails)
Interesting video I watch them just trying to learn about working on cars and trucks. I didn’t understand about the protractor and the seventy degrees. Can you add any more information or detail?
This was just a way to get around using the actual tool which is a degree wheel or torque angle wheel. It measures the torque by degrees. 180 degrees would be a half turn, 90 would be a quarter turn etc.
don't you clean the cap surface with sandpaper before replacing the bearing; I just finish doing my dodge ram and I cleaned the journal and the cap surfaces with a fine emery cloth and p2500 wet and dry before replacing the shells. The bearings may be too tight if the surfaces are not cleaned and may damage the new bearings.
F.Y.I.
If you catch the knock right away usually standard will work. (this means the instant you hear the knock you shut down the engine)
Use a micrometer to measure the Rod journals where the bearings ride on the crankshaft and the inside diameter of the rods. Bearings need to match perfectly inside the rod and proper oil clearance to the crank. Use a dial or spring bore gauge and micrometer to measure the inside diameter. If the journals are worn or an aftermarket crank is used standard size wont work. Also use Plastigauge or to confirm oil clearances when assembling.
Yes, to do a proper job, all of these things you mention should have been done. The crank was not visually worn enough to make a difference. I am more of a risk taker and just hope for the best.
I’ve done the visual method several times myself.
Does the crank need to be turned to get to each bearing to remove? I'm doing a 94 s10 2.2
Wow what I video.. Will this work for boxer engines ? I read that its not possible for a boxer. Yet I don't believe that for one second.
I have never done this on a boxer engine. I have been told by many that this will not work on any engine, Personally I don't see what difference it would make on a boxer providing that the crank is not too far gone. Thanks for watching!
I have a 96 Tarus with a knock in it. But, it only starts knocking when the engine is warm and under load. Like when you go up a steep hill but it doesn't do it when idling but will if you rev the engine once it's warmed up. Though, the other day I let it idle for about 15 mins playing with the gas and it didn't knock once. I've changed the oil in it along with the oil filter.
+Crazedbythedays Not sure but from what you've mentioned, it sounds like a spun rod bearing. If the knock has stopped, it may last or it may spin again. What happens sometimes is the tabs that hold the bearing, wear and allow the bearing to turn and partially block the oil passage. If the knock is now gone, then possibly it just wanted new oil.
+MudRFunR I have a 98 Ford Taurus and evidence leads me to think I have spun bearings. It had an oil leak and was driven by my wife without oil and now has a squeeling noise and a knocking sound.
Hey I just started have a knock im my 4.3 and it occurs from start up and gets louder when it revs up im thinkings its a rod bearing but not for sure gonna be pulling the engine soon to check it out any input would be greatly aporeciated as its my first engine tear down
It does sound like a rod bearing from your description. Let me know how what you find once it's apart. If there is any major scoring on the crankshaft, just changing bearings won't be enough. I'll try to help as much as I can.
How will I know if the scoring is bad on the crank?
tip for the degree of the bolts my man, use white out, or a paint pen, make a mark on the end of the stud and the nut so you have a refrence point and just crank it till you close to 70 deg, then check and if need more do it up! it is very important to get that correctly, also when reusing thes torque to yeild bolts/studs you always need to pay attention to how much force your applying to the bar/ratchet if it starts getting easyer then the bolt must be replaced!
Did you plastiguage? Did you reuse the same rod bolts? I sit still running problem free?
No plastiguage, Same bolts. This is risky (as I noted in the title) but I have had success with this in the past. You ask " is it still running"? This truck was intended as a project truck for my son. I wanted us to get it road worthy together but he quickly lost interest. I got frustrated. I drove it into the back yard. Sat there ever since. No front clip and all rusted now.
@MudRFunR OK. Thanks. I have rod knock and excessive crankshaft end-play walking (thrust bearing) causing flexplate cracking around the bolt pattern so obviously and I am trying to determine if using the old rod bolts is somewhat safe for a rod & main bearing roll out in a grocery getter. I plan to hand polish journals if necessary and plastigauge. I'm just worried about reusing the rod bolts.
If you can pull the pistons out, ALWAYS replace stock rod bolts with ARP chrome moly bolts.They are the weak link @ high RPM.
i got some end caps on some wrong pistons and i dont know where they go mine are not factory marked what can i do
The only thing I could suggest at this point is plastiguage to check bearing clearance on all the bearings.
MudRFunR how do you do that
L.T DEX 57
Honestly, I myself have never used plastigauge. This is the only way that I know of that you could be sure. If you want to take a risk, you could try assembling. Then, turn the engine over by hand without the sparkplugs in it. It should turn freely with no feel of it binding. It could work or not. This whole process is risky even without mixing up the caps.
+MudRFunR I use plastiguage every time. When you are talking about .002 clearance, any error is possible.
Anytime, I have the truck running but not complete. Has lots of oil pressure!
How oil free does the backside of the bearings need to be? 100% or just rag wipe cleaned from oil?
Sorry for the late reply. I don't think it is that critical.Just wiped would be fine.
Think the birds help a bit , hats to the birds
We have many happy birds around here. They really enjoy our Mulberry tree.
Will 2morrow and am hoping for the.best; got the.engine 8 mos ago
hi good videos ? 70 degrees wy put mark nuts more easy?
Thanks good video. How much time to RnR the engine?
It's really difficult to guess how long this would take. Recording time really extends the time it takes to actually do the job.
can this be done under the car without removing the engine?
No. The oil pan can't be removed without pulling or at least raising the engine. With the shape of this particular oil pan, I doubt that you could lift the engine high enough to remove the pan.
Depending on the car make and model , on some cars you can fix the rod bearings under it.
I have a question .... I have a 5.7 hemi with a knock in bottom end....when I start the truck there is no knock for the first 10 seconds then it gradually gets louder for the next few mins until it has a very noticeable knock in bottom end...and my oil pressure is high when it knocks then...when truck is warm the knock is very faint and regular oil pressure
Sounds like a bad wrist pin or cracked piston.
you earned a sub..
Thanks! Much appreciated.
have you did it with the engine still in the vehicle. just droping the pan. I have a blazer I was wondering
I have seen very few RWD or 4WD vehicles where you can get as far as even removing the pan. I have never tried it on a Blazer but don't think it would be possible. These things are so tightly crammed in, especially if it's a 4WD.
Will these fit the 1996 chevy s10
also one of my freeze plugs is leaking, should I replace them all or just the one,, and do u know an easy way to get them out., thank ye bought the motor at a salvage yard to replace another motor,, the junkyard motor had a blown head gasket, im going thru it. I think it might have blown the head gasket because of the leaking freeze plug and it ran hot.
They are not hard to get out. Definitely check the other plugs. Look for rust or corrosion between the block and the plug. If you use a small chisel or a punch, just tap one side of the plug to flip it inside the hole. Grab it with pliers. Should come out easy. Clean the hole if it's corroded. Use a bit of sealant around the outer edge of the new plug. Get a socket that fits inside the new plug with an extension and tap the new one in. Hope this helps.
@@MudRFunR thanks.. maybe some jb weld to seal it? or 3m marine adhesive sealant? being its a water jacket I wouldnt think it gets super hot.
I have 2000 S10, knocking pretty good and i suspect rod bearing. do i need to pull entire motor to do this job? or I've heard i could do this by dropping the oil pan. your thoughts? also, if rods are scored bad.....is it even worth finishing? what can i expect to see? broken bearings? possibly heavy scoring? great video, but I'm now even more nervous to do job!!! ahaha.
First reply 7 years lol what actually happened with that my 2000 4.3 1500 is knocking like a bitch narrowed it down to passanger side rear cylinder by pulling plug wires off found that one knocked like crazy when un plugged. Guna attempt to pull the pn tomoro and replace the bearing hopefully its just a con bearing
One at a time it helps
They say if your finger is coated with oil it will fill up the grooves in is and then it's ok to touch/spread oil on the bearing. The oils will cause a build up in a small area and get hotter than normal thus wearing more. Cool vid thanks
I think I have spread the assembly lube with my finger before. Just being over-cautious, I guess. Thanks for your comment!
I'm getting ready to do this on my 91 Riviera but while it's still in the car lol wish me luck.
great vid man, learned a lot watching it.
Did you use a standard/OEM sized bearing, or undersized to account for crankshaft wear?
I used the standard bearing. Use only the same size bearing that you took out. Markings are on the back of the bearing.
A dab of fine valve grinding compound will polish it in before washing away.
Thanks for your comment, much appreciated!
Nice video man
Do crank bearings too or just rod bearings?
It would depend on many factors. I didn't even inspect mine. I checked the crank for any play back to front and up and down. If the engine still has good oil pressure, chances are that the mains will be good for a while. Just my opinion. Check yours if you at all suspect them to be worn or damaged.
Did you use standard size bearings?
Yes, standard, the same size that I took out.
How do you knkw what size bearings? Im so confused on the bearing measurements. I have a lower rod knock not to bad. Im sure its a rod bearing. Someone says you got to polish crank and yada yada yo. Its a 99 Durango and if I can get another 100,000 out of it great! Or would it be easier to throw 450.00 on a pick and pull motor that only has a 30 day warrenty
Good job mudr ...did this one last? I've got a jeep 4.0 that has developed a slight knock at idle in the bottom end. Seems to quiet down on accel. What are my chances of saving it if it's been babied around town for a month? It's not very loud yet but is getting louder lately. It's always done it just not as loud
The Jeep 4.0L are bad for low oil pressure at an idle. If it quiets down on acceleration, then you probably have a main bearing issue. A rod bearing will usually get louder when accelerating. A bad main will usually last longer than a rod bearing when it starts to knock. You should be OK babying it for a month but new rod bearings will probably not fix your problem. My engine has not had a chance to be tested cause I have not had time to finish the rest of the truck. Hope this helps.
Thanks bud...but it may just get drowned out from acceleration...guess it probably wouldn't hurt to look
Great video!
Thanks!
Hey bubba can i do this job with out pulled engine out 2005silverado 1500 4.3 l thanks appreciate 🔥🤟
I wouldn't know for sure. I have never tried it. Most rear wheel or 4 wheel drive vehicles you can't. Sometimes you can get away with lifting the engine partially. I'm just guessing at this.
Saw where he says not to touch the bearing surface. Wrong. Always use assembly lube. Rotating assemblies are Immersed in oil all the time but during the break in period it is especially important to pre-lubricate to prevent damage.
Do not touch bearing surface was not meant as not lubricating it. See 6:40 in the video. Assembly lube is applied here. Of course they don't go in dry.
word
I missed you part but goodon'ya.
Great tutorial, sub'd!
Thanks for subscribing. Greatly appreciated!
I got a quick question I have a 4.6 mustang gt and it has a knocking sound in the bottom end when I turn on the car it knocks hard (the first 2seconds) then it calms down but still knocks... every time I hit the gas it sounds louder does that mean it can be the rod bearing or the whole rod? Can it be fixed with out pulling out the whole engine? Would rather do it myself than try to pay a mechanic since they be charging a lot in la
Sorry for the late reply. The knock is definitely a rod bearing. With the knock on start up might indicate the main bearings or the oil pump or both could be weak. Removing the bearings means removing the engine on most any rear wheel drive vehicle.
What would happen if i did this but it still making the knocking noise
Your crank must be too worn for this to work. This is risky and doesn't always work.
Useful information 👍
Thank you! Your comment is much appreciated!
@@MudRFunR ok👍
Did you use over size bearings or standard bearings?
Fred Wissink Replace the bearing with the same bearing that you take out. It will have markings on the back side of bearing. If you're unsure, bring a bearing with you when you go to buy new ones.
oversize means there additional meat on the over side (crank side) of the journal. if it says undersize it means additional meat on the rod side. you only use oversize or undersize if material has been removed. hope this helps
Good job , thanks for the info
Glad you liked it, enjoy!
Thanks for the great explanation. I will attempt it on a 4.7 jeep motor. And the hose protection is a smart one, good to know.
Glad to help, good luck and enjoy!
MudRFunR Thanks! Just confirmed it is spun bearing on cylinder 8. I used the injector-disconnect method. Knocking disappeared when injector for Cylinder 8 was disconnected. Knocking is strong only at above 2000 rpm. I wonder what I will find under the oil pan. Was hoping for just bearing replacement, but from what I am reading I may need a crankshaft kit. Will see how the surface looks like I guess.I might try just bearing if crank journals are not scored badly. Will check compression tomorrow first thing, to see if any piston or cylinder scoring was done. The car has been driven 30-50 miles with the knock according to the previous owner. I wonder how long has it been oil deprived, before it was noticed.
How many miles you put on the vehicle since this repair?
I'm not sure. I wasn't done putting it back together yet when I sold it. Have not heard from him since.
Hi.. Awesome video. I am am going to attempt this on a 2003 Mazda 6 6cyl this weekend with the engine in the car.
When the car is started, there is not a knocking. When you increase the RPM to about 2000 it knocks loudly. Am I correct in assuming this is a rod knock and not a knock coming from the mains..
Yes it is most likely a rod bearing. A worn main bearing will usually make a quiet thumping sound at an idle and you will have a noticeable drop in oil pressure. (usually 0 pst at an idle) A rod bearing makes a loud knock as the RPM's increase. Hope all goes well. Just remember if the crank journals are badly worn, then this will not work without getting the crank machined and using an oversized bearings.
Yes I will make the final decision on the repair after physical inspection. I would normally replace rod bolts but cannot find them. Should I replace bolts when/if reassembled?
@@markpanelli8553 Myself, I rarely replace the bolts if the engine has never been apart before. It's not the way it should be done but I have had luck with re-using the bolts. Inspect them and then decide if it's worth the risk.
@@MudRFunRthat just answers my question I was going to ask, thank you.