An amazing explanation and great video. I would have liked to see you actually adjust the turret in your examples. The problem I always have with windage is which way do I turn the turret. which direction do I turn the turret to move the round in the desired direction. Think this would really help the new people watching your channel. I recently just purchased my fourth Arken scope. good experiences so far.
I’ve got an Harkin optics EP 5-20 5 x 56 scope at 25 yards. It hits an inch high. I cannot adjust the zero stop down any further. I’ve watched videos with a suggest loosening the three screws on the bump stock and then adjusting it I have tried this. The bock does not move. Any suggestions?
Would you mind clarifying your explanation at the approximate 4:07 mark if moving the reticle the bullseye will always be the center point of aim. Do you mean you're moving the bullseye location when adjusting the turrets?
If you are using reticle adjustments to hit target it's called a hold over. So for instance if you zero at 100y, you may need to hold up on the 4th hash line for say....a 300y shot. Conversely if you rather keep the target centered on the dot in middle of the reticle you would spin the turret to 4. Using center dot of reticle and precise clicks of turret can in many cases lead to tighter groups.
This may be a dumb question (I’m new in learning about advanced optics and aiming) but wouldn’t the best thing be to zero in with the turrets at 100 yds and then use holdovers for every shot after that? That way your scope is always zeroed in and you’re not constantly changing the turret settings?
With an older optic that is not designed like these optics yes. Older or lesser quality optics as you spin the turrets there is inherent mechanical error within the mechanisms. The Arken (and other premium) optics have a very high degree of precision within the mechanisms that turning them does not result in any error or slip etc. When doing a hold over (Kentucky Windage) style you are at the mercy of (1) holding a not precise crosshair type point on the reticle. (2) Also when doing so in some cases the thickness of the line or hashes is less precise than a click. So....with this type of optic for target shooting where you have time to align things and set the turrets up its generally more accurate to do so. Hunting is a different situation and often hold overs are the way to go.
@@RugerGundog Gotcha! I’m trying to get into recreational precision shooting. So is the idea that you zero it in at 100 yds and then after you’ve used the turrets to adjust for different shots, you change the turrets back to what they were at the 100 yd setting?
A friend asked this: “Is there anything a SFP scope can do that a FFP can’t?” All my glass is FFP (except 2) and I couldn’t answer it. Will you? Thanks Bob
@RugerGundog took mine on a hunt got water inside of it screwed up my hunt most the guys pushing arken scopes are making money on them just to be honest
Keep this content coming our way !
Shot 1- 8 clicks down and 4 clicks left
Shot 2- 9 clicks right
Is the plan :) The plan was to do this at the range but weather been pretty yuck. When is clear will do some more like this.
Cracking video I’ve just moved to Arken Sh4 mil and trying to get my head around it 😵💫 your video was a great help! Thanks
Glad it helped!
The SH4 is a great scope and didn't destroy my bank account!
An amazing explanation and great video. I would have liked to see you actually adjust the turret in your examples. The problem I always have with windage is which way do I turn the turret. which direction do I turn the turret to move the round in the desired direction. Think this would really help the new people watching your channel. I recently just purchased my fourth Arken scope. good experiences so far.
Great suggestion! The more time you spin you do get hang of it.
I just picked up several Arken Scopes and have not been a rifle shooter so this is helpful. Thanks!!
Atta boy! You caught my drift. 😊
Good job.
Giddy up!! Lol
New guy over all, so your videos, are very helpful, and I may add the only one talking about adjustments in a practical sense.
Thank you...and yes.
Good information
Thanks
Vortex viper or this one on an AR15? What's your advise mister😆
Arken scopes are a better value to me.
I’ve got an Harkin optics EP 5-20 5 x 56 scope at 25 yards. It hits an inch high. I cannot adjust the zero stop down any further. I’ve watched videos with a suggest loosening the three screws on the bump stock and then adjusting it I have tried this. The bock does not move. Any suggestions?
Your set screw on top needs to be backed out . If it's already out far your rail may be a 20 or 30moa rail causing an offset that close.
Nice video, I have one gripe when you commented that Arken scopes are all ffp which isn’t true!
When filming this they were. The zulus really are a different application.
Would you mind clarifying your explanation at the approximate 4:07 mark if moving the reticle the bullseye will always be the center point of aim. Do you mean you're moving the bullseye location when adjusting the turrets?
If you are using reticle adjustments to hit target it's called a hold over. So for instance if you zero at 100y, you may need to hold up on the 4th hash line for say....a 300y shot. Conversely if you rather keep the target centered on the dot in middle of the reticle you would spin the turret to 4.
Using center dot of reticle and precise clicks of turret can in many cases lead to tighter groups.
@@RugerGundog But don't change your zero by using the turret? New point of aim?
I'm going to say I'm a new guy, and this was informatitve, but I don't understand how to solve the questions. How do you do it?
This would require some dialog
Ok I'll keep looking for instructions on how this works
This may be a dumb question (I’m new in learning about advanced optics and aiming) but wouldn’t the best thing be to zero in with the turrets at 100 yds and then use holdovers for every shot after that? That way your scope is always zeroed in and you’re not constantly changing the turret settings?
With an older optic that is not designed like these optics yes. Older or lesser quality optics as you spin the turrets there is inherent mechanical error within the mechanisms. The Arken (and other premium) optics have a very high degree of precision within the mechanisms that turning them does not result in any error or slip etc.
When doing a hold over (Kentucky Windage) style you are at the mercy of (1) holding a not precise crosshair type point on the reticle. (2) Also when doing so in some cases the thickness of the line or hashes is less precise than a click.
So....with this type of optic for target shooting where you have time to align things and set the turrets up its generally more accurate to do so. Hunting is a different situation and often hold overs are the way to go.
@@RugerGundog Gotcha! I’m trying to get into recreational precision shooting. So is the idea that you zero it in at 100 yds and then after you’ve used the turrets to adjust for different shots, you change the turrets back to what they were at the 100 yd setting?
Elevation: clockwise =down counterclockwide =up
Windage: forward :left backward right . I need confirmation, thanks
Yes. They marked L and R windage. Numbers increase to raise
A friend asked this:
“Is there anything a SFP scope can do that a FFP can’t?”
All my glass is FFP (except 2) and I couldn’t answer it. Will you?
Thanks Bob
Yes. The retical is easier to see at low magnification. Hunters often like sfp. On ffp low power the retical becomes very thin
Don't want a arken.if it's free
That's odd
@RugerGundog took mine on a hunt got water inside of it screwed up my hunt most the guys pushing arken scopes are making money on them just to be honest