I've been working on this build and am about halfway through. Your videos have been a HUGE help. Your techniques with the craft paints are working extremely well. I'm about to start the shuttlebay using the photoetch parts and decals. Your explanation of how to proceed with that gave me the confidence to tackle that part of the model. Thankyou!
Brilliant. When I heared that you were doing this build I decided to wait before starting mine. I knew if I did I would learn a lot before starting. Well I was right. Again a excellent Video Boyd.
I have to say it's nice to see Boyd make little mistakes. It makes me feel like if he can make a tiny mistake from time to time and fix it then maybe I can to. Watching Boyd work is inspiring. Ps: I think that if Boyd were to slow down and lower his voice he could expand into the ASMR market and make a killing there too. :)
Beautiful job Boyd! Man, you mix nice colors for your models. At around 31:10 in your video, you show a nice shot of your finished painting (before weathering.) Something looked off to me. Then I noticed on the left side of the model, that one of the lightest color feather lines was not symmetrical with the one on the right side of the model . It is only partially painted along the panel line. But it matched the box-art photo paint job exactly. I'm wondering if James Small, the guy who built and painted the model in the box-art, forgot to paint in the full feather line before the box-art photos were taken. I've seen photos of the studio model, and the feathering looks symmetrical on both sides. What do you think, Boyd? Could this be an overlooked painting error? I think that painting in the full feather line would look way better. Can't wait to see your completed K'Tinga! Awesome work, man!
Good eye Nick. Yes, I did try to match what I could to the box art look of the paint patterns and did notice that the two sides are not symmetrical as I originally thought. Problem is I can't seem to find any really clear pictures of the exact pattern of the studio model. I have one that shows a view from directly above and below but there is so much over coating of weathering that I can't make out all of it. Chances are also that the panel lines on the model are not exactly as they are on the filming miniature which would also throw it off a bit.
I built one of the 1/537 scale cruisers waaaaay back when they came out. No lights, but the detail was so well done that yes, I did it all by brush and it actually looked really good. (Not as good as yours, of course.) Do the surfactants in the windshield washer fluid affect the paint in any way? I would think that some straight alcohol might be just as good if not better - you can get a couple good-sized bottles for a song at Costco.
Awesome video Boyd I just got this model for Christmas and I'm looking forward to building it I was amazed that you use craft paint I was told that craft paint won't go through an airbrush you were able to send this out enough that it went through your airbrush and you were able to clean it with no problems?
I don't know who told you that but they are wrong. Craft paint sprays perfect through an airbrush. It has to be thinned with water or alcohol . It's easy to clean your airbrush with water and air bush cleaner solution after using craft paints too.
@@TrekWorks thanks for the reply Boyd I really appreciate it. I'm looking forward to trying this with my airbrush now,. I just happen to have a jug of windshield wiper fluid in the garage so I took some of that and put it into a jar that I'm washed out set up on my Hobby bench. I do have one other question though,. now the testers and stop making their gloss and flat clear coats which is usually what I've always used to my models especially when it comes to decaling them what would you suggest being able to use on a model to replace those with especially a model of a ship that we put in water that won't turn light or milky I have been trying to search all over the place trying to find a clear coat to replace the testers and so far I have been able to find anything so anything you could recommend would be well appreciated.
ghantoH bInarghtaHvIS 'oH qach because of rItlh Qap waqDaj. series qach qatlho' video For those who do not speak Klingon I have had this model afraid to build it because of the paint work. Thank you for this video build series
It’s kinda weird that the ‘good guys’ on Trek are plain boring old white and the ‘bad guys’ have rad colourful paint jobs, but I’m guessing there were reasons. Looking good Boyd! Almost looks like a computer graphic with all those sharp polygonal shapes.
@31:39 -- One thing that bugs me is that BRIGHT insignia. I know it's on the shooting model allegedly and people can paint these things however they want but let's consider REAL history, REAL life --- They generally avoid BRIGHT markings in real life because they draw too much attention. If you ever watch operational military planes, they paint the national insignia and call letters in subdued colors -- shades of grey because it doesn't reflect intensely and attract attention so much. The philosophy of paint schemes has changed tremendously between wars. The switchover from high visibility to low-observable markings occurred between the 1970s and early to mid-1980s. Before then, the only planes they generally bothered to disguise or mute national markings on were spy planes (A-12, U-2; the SR-71 had fairly bright markings but they could never hide that plane on radar when it was in flight at high speed). In World War II, they painted up fighters with VERY distinct paint schemes so that similar designs (Me Bf-109 versus Spitfire versus Mustang; Fw-190 versus P-47) didn't look so much alike. You'd have squadron mates or even AAA sites committing friendly fire and shooting down their own guys because the planes looked too much alike! The idea was to have paint schemes that were very obvious from a distance (black and white striping on wings; checkerboard patterns on the engine bay cowling; distinct colored tails) so that you knew you WEREN'T shooting down your own wingman or ally. Well, after Vietnam, the idea changed about paints because the planes were frankly becoming TOO big and TOO visible at range to paint up with bright colors. You could already see larger planes at distances of 15-20 miles or more because of smoke trails from engines or just the fact that some planes stand out because of their size! The IFF/electronic identifier systems and AWACs made distinct paint schemes pretty much unnecessary and subdued paint schemes became the standard. (The other reality is that until the Russians introduced their current-generation fighters in the 1980s, there were no other planes flying that LOOKED like the F-15, F-14, or F-4. The American super fighters really didn't have to be flown with special paint schemes to stick out.) I would think in space that coloring the cruisers darker tones/grey/black (to hide against the background of the galactic void) makes more sense than painting bright feathers on them and certainly something that sticks out like a primary color insignia. Now, we know the Federation has a different philosophy with more openness, obvious hull registry and markings, brightly lit areas for the identification markings, etc. but for a power that has a constant war setting it doesn't make sense for the Klingons to advertise so openly unless they're that arrogant and think they're going to win! You can kind of question that stance anyway because why would have they have cloaking devices on their ships if they were that confident? Rant off, back to modeling!
Clive Thomas that’s true, they’d probably like that actually, would make the de-cloaking instill more fear, “oh no, only one race uses fluorescent orange, we’re doomed!”
@@wierdalien1 100% agreed. The "paint work" is for intimidation. Heck, even the design harkening to a "bird of prey" is intentional, too. Plus, didn't they "acquire" these from the Romulans?
It's sad when people are so closed minded about learning new techniques and materials from someone as gifted as Boyd. Preconceived notions and conclusions tend to shut out new ideas and concepts.
@@MichaelJShaffer I had to restrain myself and watch what I wrote because I GET SICK of seeing that type of narrow-minded, NASTY behavior on social media all the time but I totally agree with what you said about watching and listening to learn new techniques. I know I'll probably never build a lot of these models but I do like seeing how people tackle constructing them, painting, and lighting them. The OP was incredibly arrogant. That's the type of person THE BLOCK Function was made for.
Really? Have you ever seen the amazing paint jobs Boyd does? His model work always turns out camera ready to make a film. Maybe you don't need craft paints, but Boyd always makes it look like you'll get the best results with them.
To each their own as they say. All I know is these paints give excellent results and I know several modelers who use it exclusively with no issues. I spent less than $15 for all of the paint I used vs the over $40 it would have cost for name brand "hobby" paints. Also super easy cleanup and no harmful fumes either.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Honor on you , Boyd, and your house!
I've been working on this build and am about halfway through. Your videos have been a HUGE help. Your techniques with the craft paints are working extremely well. I'm about to start the shuttlebay using the photoetch parts and decals. Your explanation of how to proceed with that gave me the confidence to tackle that part of the model. Thankyou!
its beautiful, just dont know where Id ever display it, without it Dominating the room (for the Glory of the Klingon Empire, of course)
Brilliant. When I heared that you were doing this build I decided to wait before starting mine. I knew if I did I would learn a lot before starting. Well I was right. Again a excellent Video Boyd.
Looks fantastic man!
Very nice. I had never considered spraying the Tamiya panel line accent colour. Interesting technique that I'll have to try some time.
Thanks for showing us that painters tape is our friend and its not always necessary to buy paint masking set. Looks fantastic!!
Looking good Boyd. Thanks for taking us through the masking. It answered a lot of questions for me. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Really enjoy seeing how you do your work!
Great video Boyd. Thank you for the painting tips.
Really enjoying the build Boyd! Thanks for sharing with Us some of Your techniques.
Beautiful work and excellent how to on what you did for the paint job.
I have to say it's nice to see Boyd make little mistakes. It makes me feel like if he can make a tiny mistake from time to time and fix it then maybe I can to. Watching Boyd work is inspiring. Ps: I think that if Boyd were to slow down and lower his voice he could expand into the ASMR market and make a killing there too. :)
Great looking K'tinga, well done, will be watching!....Bill
like how the model is turning out Boyd can't wait to see it finished .
Great job so far! I really need to break down and get an airbrush one of these days.
Super Nice, I may just have to order one, LOL.
Another good tutorial!
Looking great, I use craft paints all the time.
Beautiful job Boyd! Man, you mix nice colors for your models.
At around 31:10 in your video, you show a nice shot of your finished painting (before weathering.)
Something looked off to me.
Then I noticed on the left side of the model, that one of the lightest color feather lines was not
symmetrical with the one on the right side of the model . It is only partially painted along the panel line.
But it matched the box-art photo paint job exactly.
I'm wondering if James Small, the guy who built and painted the model in the box-art, forgot to paint in the full feather line
before the box-art photos were taken. I've seen photos of the studio model, and the feathering looks symmetrical on
both sides.
What do you think, Boyd? Could this be an overlooked painting error?
I think that painting in the full feather line would look way better.
Can't wait to see your completed K'Tinga! Awesome work, man!
Good eye Nick. Yes, I did try to match what I could to the box art look of the paint patterns and did notice that the two sides are not symmetrical as I originally thought. Problem is I can't seem to find any really clear pictures of the exact pattern of the studio model. I have one that shows a view from directly above and below but there is so much over coating of weathering that I can't make out all of it. Chances are also that the panel lines on the model are not exactly as they are on the filming miniature which would also throw it off a bit.
I built one of the 1/537 scale cruisers waaaaay back when they came out. No lights, but the detail was so well done that yes, I did it all by brush and it actually looked really good. (Not as good as yours, of course.) Do the surfactants in the windshield washer fluid affect the paint in any way? I would think that some straight alcohol might be just as good if not better - you can get a couple good-sized bottles for a song at Costco.
Awesome video Boyd I just got this model for Christmas and I'm looking forward to building it I was amazed that you use craft paint I was told that craft paint won't go through an airbrush you were able to send this out enough that it went through your airbrush and you were able to clean it with no problems?
I don't know who told you that but they are wrong. Craft paint sprays perfect through an airbrush. It has to be thinned with water or alcohol . It's easy to clean your airbrush with water and air bush cleaner solution after using craft paints too.
@@TrekWorks thanks for the reply Boyd I really appreciate it. I'm looking forward to trying this with my airbrush now,. I just happen to have a jug of windshield wiper fluid in the garage so I took some of that and put it into a jar that I'm washed out set up on my Hobby bench.
I do have one other question though,. now the testers and stop making their gloss and flat clear coats which is usually what I've always used to my models especially when it comes to decaling them what would you suggest being able to use on a model to replace those with especially a model of a ship that we put in water that won't turn light or milky I have been trying to search all over the place trying to find a clear coat to replace the testers and so far I have been able to find anything so anything you could recommend would be well appreciated.
ghantoH bInarghtaHvIS 'oH qach because of rItlh Qap waqDaj. series qach qatlho' video
For those who do not speak Klingon
I have had this model afraid to build it because of the paint work. Thank you for this video build series
It’s kinda weird that the ‘good guys’ on Trek are plain boring old white and the ‘bad guys’ have rad colourful paint jobs, but I’m guessing there were reasons. Looking good Boyd! Almost looks like a computer graphic with all those sharp polygonal shapes.
I never used acrylic paints before, do they come in gloss and flat or just flat?
Gloss, semi gloss or flat.
@@TrekWorks Cool thanks.
@31:39 -- One thing that bugs me is that BRIGHT insignia.
I know it's on the shooting model allegedly and people can paint these things however they want but let's consider REAL history, REAL life ---
They generally avoid BRIGHT markings in real life because they draw too much attention. If you ever watch operational military planes, they paint the national insignia and call letters in subdued colors -- shades of grey because it doesn't reflect intensely and attract attention so much.
The philosophy of paint schemes has changed tremendously between wars. The switchover from high visibility to low-observable markings occurred between the 1970s and early to mid-1980s. Before then, the only planes they generally bothered to disguise or mute national markings on were spy planes (A-12, U-2; the SR-71 had fairly bright markings but they could never hide that plane on radar when it was in flight at high speed).
In World War II, they painted up fighters with VERY distinct paint schemes so that similar designs (Me Bf-109 versus Spitfire versus Mustang; Fw-190 versus P-47) didn't look so much alike. You'd have squadron mates or even AAA sites committing friendly fire and shooting down their own guys because the planes looked too much alike! The idea was to have paint schemes that were very obvious from a distance (black and white striping on wings; checkerboard patterns on the engine bay cowling; distinct colored tails) so that you knew you WEREN'T shooting down your own wingman or ally.
Well, after Vietnam, the idea changed about paints because the planes were frankly becoming TOO big and TOO visible at range to paint up with bright colors. You could already see larger planes at distances of 15-20 miles or more because of smoke trails from engines or just the fact that some planes stand out because of their size! The IFF/electronic identifier systems and AWACs made distinct paint schemes pretty much unnecessary and subdued paint schemes became the standard. (The other reality is that until the Russians introduced their current-generation fighters in the 1980s, there were no other planes flying that LOOKED like the F-15, F-14, or F-4. The American super fighters really didn't have to be flown with special paint schemes to stick out.)
I would think in space that coloring the cruisers darker tones/grey/black (to hide against the background of the galactic void) makes more sense than painting bright feathers on them and certainly something that sticks out like a primary color insignia.
Now, we know the Federation has a different philosophy with more openness, obvious hull registry and markings, brightly lit areas for the identification markings, etc. but for a power that has a constant war setting it doesn't make sense for the Klingons to advertise so openly unless they're that arrogant and think they're going to win! You can kind of question that stance anyway because why would have they have cloaking devices on their ships if they were that confident?
Rant off, back to modeling!
You answered your own point. The Klingons are arrogant. Plus space is pretty honking.
With cloaking technology the paint scheme don't matter - could be day-glow orange if you want ;)
Clive Thomas that’s true, they’d probably like that actually, would make the de-cloaking instill more fear, “oh no, only one race uses fluorescent orange, we’re doomed!”
@@wierdalien1 100% agreed. The "paint work" is for intimidation. Heck, even the design harkening to a "bird of prey" is intentional, too. Plus, didn't they "acquire" these from the Romulans?
@@MichaelJShaffer yes they did
Be careful that Tamiya panel liner melts plastic!
Really? I haven't noticed that at all and I've been using it for quite awhile. So far it hasn't even disturbed any paint I've used with it on top.
Yeah, it helps to put a layer of clear on the model before using the panel liner.
Craft paints? I dont need to.listen to people who thimk this is good paints. Good bye.
Have a nice day!
Don't let the door hit you on the way out!
It's sad when people are so closed minded about learning new techniques and materials from someone as gifted as Boyd. Preconceived notions and conclusions tend to shut out new ideas and concepts.
@@MichaelJShaffer I had to restrain myself and watch what I wrote because I GET SICK of seeing that type of narrow-minded, NASTY behavior on social media all the time but I totally agree with what you said about watching and listening to learn new techniques. I know I'll probably never build a lot of these models but I do like seeing how people tackle constructing them, painting, and lighting them.
The OP was incredibly arrogant. That's the type of person THE BLOCK Function was made for.
Really? Have you ever seen the amazing paint jobs Boyd does? His model work always turns out camera ready to make a film. Maybe you don't need craft paints, but Boyd always makes it look like you'll get the best results with them.
To each their own as they say. All I know is these paints give excellent results and I know several modelers who use it exclusively with no issues. I spent less than $15 for all of the paint I used vs the over $40 it would have cost for name brand "hobby" paints. Also super easy cleanup and no harmful fumes either.