In all honesty I've been a tech for 4 years and never new this. Great job on explaining this. We never stop learning. Well if you have stopped learning you have either left the industry or stop giving a crap.
For those saying this is wrong, you are actually wrong because the technician in the video did not extend the length of the torque wrench. Applying the torque at 90 degrees like they did will give an accurate torque to the fastener. This a proper way of tightening a hard to reach fastener
Finally an accurate explanation! Now we just need you to explain the use of “extensions” with a torque wrench;) and how they magically reduce static torque!
Nice job! Old tech once told me to drop 5 to 7% and you’ll be in the ball park. Never had a problem with doing it that way. Seems like math wins again. Thanks
Great video, I remembered this formula came with my torque wrench, years ago. However what i had forgotten was how much of a difference in torque it was! Also i didnt know the 90 degree trick, Thanks!
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot from your demonstration of how to use a torque wrench, and now I'll be able to torque bolts into the spec in tight places.
When using self locking fasteners don’t forget to add drag torque to your required torque to ensure the fastener isn’t under torqued. Also most torque specs are designed with the fasteners lightly lubricated unless specifically stated to be dry. Good info. 👍
The fact is that every fastener is different when torqued. regardless you can't know the exact drag.. You have to torque turn the bolt to get the correct clamping force
Thank you sir, I'm a longtime sub, and enjoy you're teaching, also I used you're videos on testing all my relay's. I'm Diy, 4& 1/2 year's learning, I'm still learning still much to learn.
I use that formula all the time at work. Works fine. A little over the top to say ‘never do this’. Just like anything you should know what your doing before doing it. That’s all.
Hi thnxs for your videos and they are great but I have a 2003 Peugeot 206 and I wonder it really runs rugh and when it comes to heavy rains it really runs smoothly and i always wondered if it is cylinder head or the clutch or the sensors off but the problem is that the pedals shakes normally under your feet and in heavy rains it really gets really smooth just as good as new could it be of missfire or coilovers? Or injectors? No error codes are seen. Could you plz help me out with that .
I like the harbor Freight torque wrench 👍 I have it too, can't afford the brand name ones, lol. I tried 90 degree best I could when tightening the wonderful control arm bolts when under load for the B5 audi. Try it one day. Very fun, lol. I used tq adapters. So nice. To bad this tool u linked is 200.00. I'll stick to your method 👍 thanks for sharing
Thanks, *NOW* you tell me. I just got through replacing the injectors on my Detroit Diesel, torqued them all with a torque wrench, all with a crows foot. Think it all worked out okay, it runs, doesn't leak, haven't stripped any threads (that I know of), I'm good, unless it blows up with me in it.
@@brettwalkom948, Thanks, appreciate it. I forgot all about me making that comment. Truck still running good, no leaks, and it hasn't blown up, it's been about 15k miles since then
I used crows feet to torque my b5 control arms and I knew something felt off. I kept re-doing the torque until it felt "right" which was probably when it was set at 90 degrees. Now I know!
2:13 - is that even the same distance when the crow foot has moved upwards like 5cm, away from the measurement point ? or this Pythagoras move is not that big anyway, so it doesnt matter that much as the straight forward movement would ?
Can you please do a paid video course on auto mechanic and specially the electric side? I really liked your STFT & LTFT video and the way you put it please do a paid series like this with all resources.
I was hoping this will be more practical on how to keep the crowfoot in position and tighten down what you’re trying to tighten down without a locking capability
This 90° angle thing is only assuming that you are getting the torque wrench to break over while it’s at 90°, what about when you’re ratcheting it and you have an acute angle between the crows foot and the torque wrench, causing it an even shorter distance
Good work To help with the measuring and math read the manual for your torque wrench. A lot of good torque wrench manufacturers will have a page with the measurements provided and a plug and play equation.
This is NASA level of lurn'n! My head hurts! 😫 pretty much the same concept of a extension bar on a breaker bar gives more torque & leverage. Just need a little math to GitRdun. My calibrated elbow usually works just fine at any length fulcrum changes😁
If the crows foot center is 2" farther away from the center of the torque wrench socket plug, why not just place your hand centered over 2" farther up the handle?
Placing the crows foot at 90 degrees doesn't remove the leverage caused by the distance from the end of the fastener to the center of the drive attachment square hole. The calculation applies to the crows foot regardless of angle on the wrench.
But if the crows foot is 90 degrees off to the side like he showed, C=0, and the equation isn't needed. That's because C is the length between the center of the square of the torque wrench to the center of the fastener in the crows foot ALONG a line parallel to the line that makes up the handle. In fact, if the crows foot is rotated another 90 degrees so it's directly UNDER the wrench handle, C will be negative, and you'd need to multiply the torque spec times (Dist/(Dist+C)), which would then be GREATER than 1, so the torque setting would be higher than the torque spec. Granted, for other than straight ahead or straight or straight behind, Dist changes also, but by a small amount.
@@pete540Z That is not the case. The force needs to travel though the full length of the tool and extension regardless of the orientation. If your point about rotating the crows foot straight down the handle were true the wrench setting would be 0 because there would be no torque beyond the fastener. The truth is the torque would be increasing from the point of the force up to the crows foot attachment and then would continue increasing back down the attachment to the fastener. Just as it would if the crows foot were at 0°, 90°, or any other angle.
@@davidhilley983 - I firmly disagree with your theory. The orientation of the crows foot on the end of the extension changes the leverage, as I've outlined.
Any of you watch watch Wes work? He had a bolt that he couldn’t get to with a toque wrench so I told him to try this cool to know that you can do it accurately
Just to clarify - that formula is correct if you're only holding the torque wrench at the handle and pulling, so that the reaction to your pull is only from the fastener. If you're holding the torque wrench at two places along its length and pulling with one hand while pushing with the other to rotate it (like you might do to stabilise the wrench if you're using an extension or if it's in a tight space at an odd angle), this will not be correct any more and the torque on the fastener will be lower than the formula suggests. The technique with the crow's foot rotated 90 deg is probably more consistent, otherwise be careful only to hold the torque wrench at the location you assumed in the formula, and not anywhere else as well. Great video though! I'm a structural engineer doing some work on my car, and I'd never heard of a crows foot adaptor before but it's just what I need.
That's a good way to explain it. I would like to see the different angles shown on a torque measuring device. My mind is telling me that at a right angle it would actually throw the torque off
Just found the channel and liking the content. Though I can't get past how this guy looks like the offspring of Andrew Camarata and Joe Mantegna (David Rossi of CM).
What will REALLY blow people's minds is the realization that torque specs are based on fastener perfection, and has nothing to do with the important physics of securing the fastener correctly. That's why properly torqued fasteners still occasionally fail.
I think my head gasket is blown. It just did a big exhale at a light, and spewed coolant every where. I see radiator cracked a bit open at seem, eventually trynna to get home it cracked. So I replaced the radiator.. I did not see oil in the coolant.. before all this happened.. in the radiator itself.. when just inspecting here and there. How will I know. I am going to fill up new radiator today. 2001 GC laredo 4.0 6 cyl 126 k miles. Help a girl Out. Please.
that's a common procedure torqueing an aircraft's propeller. A critical torque spec and in most cases there isn't room to insert the crow foot in any way but straight in. So the computation is necessary.
Not sure I understand, if torque = force x distance and you are increasing your distance with the crow's foot, doesn't your torque go up? And therefore your torque spec increase instead of decrease?
If you are extending the length of the handle that would be the case, in this case you are extending the length on the other side of the pivot point (socket arbor) of the wrench. At least how I'm understanding it
Yes it would go up, which means the fastener would be over torqued - hence the calculation to reduce the setting on the torque wrench. Remember it's only the setting that changes. The fastener will still be torqued to the correct value.
@@raynic1173 ... actually the torque doesn't change when your grip point changes because the internals of the wrench don't change... and that's where the calibration is.
@@rupe53 you are correct I was wrong on all counts. This type of torque wrench seems independent of where the force is applied during use. If you were going to attempt an at home style calibration using an applied force, then it would matter.
Jeff, the reason choking up 2 inches doesn't work is because there are basically, to keep is simple, two different actions going on in these barrel style 'click' wrenches. One is the force being applied by the rear internal spring, which is adjusted by the round handle being turned in and out. The second is the mechanical and geometry dependent part at the head and it's attached shaft. There's a set distance from the head center to end of it's shaft. At this point where the clicker is. On one side of the clicker is the shaft head and on the other side the spring and it's tension. No matter how much you change the spring tension the head and shaft length always stays the same. The wrench design is dependent of this internal shaft length always being the same. So if we add two inches by using a crows foot at a straight out position. We have then altered the geometry and the calibration marks are no longer valid. So then we need the math to bridge the gap. There are many good videos on YT showing the break down of these wrenches, check them out. Personally I think the creative design is pretty amazing and to some degree the simplicity of it remarkable.
In all honesty I've been a tech for 4 years and never new this. Great job on explaining this. We never stop learning. Well if you have stopped learning you have either left the industry or stop giving a crap.
Great presentation! I made my first torque wrench out of a box-crowsfoot wrench, a ruler, and a fishing scale. It worked quite well. Again, thank you!
Awesome! I've been a shade tree mechanic for 40 years & did not know this? TY dude!
Awesome. Great explanation. Now I understand why the 90° angle is so important.
For those saying this is wrong, you are actually wrong because the technician in the video did not extend the length of the torque wrench. Applying the torque at 90 degrees like they did will give an accurate torque to the fastener. This a proper way of tightening a hard to reach fastener
You just explained the concept of torque to me better than any University professor or soyence youtuber
What a great video. Explained concisely and easy to understand for a novice like me. Thank you, sir!
Very helpful. I was always doing 90 degree on crowfoot, and from now on I'll be able to do straight angle.
This was a truly great video. You showed an old dog a new trick that is very valuable to my retirement income. Thank you for sharing.
Finally an accurate explanation! Now we just need you to explain the use of “extensions” with a torque wrench;) and how they magically reduce static torque!
I don’t think they do. On a impact they do, due to less impact reaching the socket
Extensions don’t change the torq … ?
Nice job! Old tech once told me to drop 5 to 7% and you’ll be in the ball park. Never had a problem with doing it that way. Seems like math wins again. Thanks
Great video, I remembered this formula came with my torque wrench, years ago. However what i had forgotten was how much of a difference in torque it was! Also i didnt know the 90 degree trick, Thanks!
Excellent. Answered perfectly the question I was seeking to have answered. Couldn't have asked for more. Thanks for making this!!
Thank you for this video! I learned a lot from your demonstration of how to use a torque wrench, and now I'll be able to torque bolts into the spec in tight places.
Great video. Thanks for posting. Simple and right to the point!
Great job explaining this for newbies like me. I really appreciate your time and effort in sharing this with us.
First one to like ! I love this guy’s content but never been the first to show it. Well… time zones helped me this time around !
When using self locking fasteners don’t forget to add drag torque to your required torque to ensure the fastener isn’t under torqued. Also most torque specs are designed with the fasteners lightly lubricated unless specifically stated to be dry.
Good info. 👍
The fact is that every fastener is different when torqued. regardless you can't know the exact drag.. You have to torque turn the bolt to get the correct clamping force
Excellent tutorial, Sir. This is very useful everyday information.
This is the first time I've watched this video and now I'm a subscriber. This is really helpful. Thanks
Thanks! I've been wondering how to properly do this.
Now I know :-).
hey thanks for coming back to youtube!
Glad to see you back!!! Love your videos!!
We were just talking about this at work this week!
Good to see you back
Outstanding instructional video. Thank you.
Thanks! I too, need to torque my lineset for my minisplit. This really helps!
Thank you sir, I'm a longtime sub, and enjoy you're teaching, also I used you're videos on testing all my relay's. I'm Diy, 4& 1/2 year's learning, I'm still learning still much to learn.
This will be very useful for torquing the rear axle nut on my motorcycle
What type of motorcycle is that, that you can't use a regular socket? Also, the rear axle nut torque doesn't need to be that precise.
I use that formula all the time at work. Works fine. A little over the top to say ‘never do this’. Just like anything you should know what your doing before doing it. That’s all.
do you have formula for metric system as well or does it work the same?
Great video brother!
Thanks much!!! I was trying to figure this out on my own but this came in super handy - great job!!!
Flawless explanation, including the math is fantastic!
Pure AWESOMENESS! Best explanation ever!
Great topic and great tip. Made it easy to wrap my head around.👍
Miss your videos, man. Some of the best on RUclips. Also, I have those same Costco shelves and they're just as messy as yours lol.
Hi thnxs for your videos and they are great but I have a 2003 Peugeot 206 and I wonder it really runs rugh and when it comes to heavy rains it really runs smoothly and i always wondered if it is cylinder head or the clutch or the sensors off but the problem is that the pedals shakes normally under your feet and in heavy rains it really gets really smooth just as good as new could it be of missfire or coilovers? Or injectors? No error codes are seen. Could you plz help me out with that .
Simply compensate the approximate difference on the gripper... I learned this 'nifty-trick' from an old friend who no longer works for Concorde 🤠
Your videos are always very informative. Thanks.
Great video, but I thought I wasnt supposed to trust you . Its nice to have you back on a regular basis.
I like the harbor Freight torque wrench 👍 I have it too, can't afford the brand name ones, lol. I tried 90 degree best I could when tightening the wonderful control arm bolts when under load for the B5 audi. Try it one day. Very fun, lol. I used tq adapters. So nice. To bad this tool u linked is 200.00. I'll stick to your method 👍 thanks for sharing
Dude good morning!
Thank You…very helpful.
Very simple explanation, great vid
does that not then increase leverage? how doe that apply to your torque?
Thanks, *NOW* you tell me. I just got through replacing the injectors on my Detroit Diesel, torqued them all with a torque wrench, all with a crows foot. Think it all worked out okay, it runs, doesn't leak, haven't stripped any threads (that I know of), I'm good, unless it blows up with me in it.
To be honest the variation that little amount of distance from the end of the torque wrench wouldn't make alot of difference anyway.. You'll be fine
@@brettwalkom948, Thanks, appreciate it. I forgot all about me making that comment. Truck still running good, no leaks, and it hasn't blown up, it's been about 15k miles since then
@@vivillager people get anal over this stuff.. In reality most bolts have a plus or minus so many ftlbs anyway
Thank you for making this.
Excellent information and explanation! Thank You!
Thanks for the valuable tutorial. Does this applies to an socket extension bar also?
I used crows feet to torque my b5 control arms and I knew something felt off. I kept re-doing the torque until it felt "right" which was probably when it was set at 90 degrees. Now I know!
Thanks.
I wasn't aware of the calculations.
Awsome.
i swear i clicked the bell like a year ago but here it is unchecked.....YOUUUUUTUUUUBE!!
I’ve looking for this info. Thx a lot.
Thank you sir, clearly answered a question I had.
2:13 - is that even the same distance when the crow foot has moved upwards like 5cm, away from the measurement point ? or this Pythagoras move is not that big anyway, so it doesnt matter that much as the straight forward movement would ?
Can you please do a paid video course on auto mechanic and specially the electric side? I really liked your STFT & LTFT video and the way you put it please do a paid series like this with all resources.
Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Very nice information, never knew this
Excellent video, thank you for sharing
Nice information
Nicely done!
Wow man you just blew my mind!
Thank you so much
Great explanation
I was hoping this will be more practical on how to keep the crowfoot in position and tighten down what you’re trying to tighten down without a locking capability
Nice job, good explanation.
Hi there.If you use a digital torque wrench adaptor its the same calculation?Thanks in advance.Greetings from Greece.
Good video . Hope you are doing well my friend 😁
What if you use an extension?
This 90° angle thing is only assuming that you are getting the torque wrench to break over while it’s at 90°, what about when you’re ratcheting it and you have an acute angle between the crows foot and the torque wrench, causing it an even shorter distance
Good work
To help with the measuring and math read the manual for your torque wrench. A lot of good torque wrench manufacturers will have a page with the measurements provided and a plug and play equation.
great info. keep the vids coming
This is NASA level of lurn'n! My head hurts! 😫 pretty much the same concept of a extension bar on a breaker bar gives more torque & leverage. Just need a little math to GitRdun. My calibrated elbow usually works just fine at any length fulcrum changes😁
nice information thx
If the crows foot center is 2" farther away from the center of the torque wrench socket plug, why not just place your hand centered over 2" farther up the handle?
Because that doesn't change when the wrench clicks, that just changes how much effort it takes for you to make it click.
@@mt186 Ah, thanks!
Placing the crows foot at 90 degrees doesn't remove the leverage caused by the distance from the end of the fastener to the center of the drive attachment square hole. The calculation applies to the crows foot regardless of angle on the wrench.
But if the crows foot is 90 degrees off to the side like he showed, C=0, and the equation isn't needed. That's because C is the length between the center of the square of the torque wrench to the center of the fastener in the crows foot ALONG a line parallel to the line that makes up the handle. In fact, if the crows foot is rotated another 90 degrees so it's directly UNDER the wrench handle, C will be negative, and you'd need to multiply the torque spec times (Dist/(Dist+C)), which would then be GREATER than 1, so the torque setting would be higher than the torque spec.
Granted, for other than straight ahead or straight or straight behind, Dist changes also, but by a small amount.
@@pete540Z That is not the case. The force needs to travel though the full length of the tool and extension regardless of the orientation. If your point about rotating the crows foot straight down the handle were true the wrench setting would be 0 because there would be no torque beyond the fastener. The truth is the torque would be increasing from the point of the force up to the crows foot attachment and then would continue increasing back down the attachment to the fastener. Just as it would if the crows foot were at 0°, 90°, or any other angle.
@@davidhilley983 - I firmly disagree with your theory. The orientation of the crows foot on the end of the extension changes the leverage, as I've outlined.
Great video, you can teach an old dog new tricks thanks
Any of you watch watch Wes work? He had a bolt that he couldn’t get to with a toque wrench so I told him to try this cool to know that you can do it accurately
Extension calculations?
Thank-you , maestro .🙂
Just to clarify - that formula is correct if you're only holding the torque wrench at the handle and pulling, so that the reaction to your pull is only from the fastener. If you're holding the torque wrench at two places along its length and pulling with one hand while pushing with the other to rotate it (like you might do to stabilise the wrench if you're using an extension or if it's in a tight space at an odd angle), this will not be correct any more and the torque on the fastener will be lower than the formula suggests. The technique with the crow's foot rotated 90 deg is probably more consistent, otherwise be careful only to hold the torque wrench at the location you assumed in the formula, and not anywhere else as well. Great video though! I'm a structural engineer doing some work on my car, and I'd never heard of a crows foot adaptor before but it's just what I need.
That's a good way to explain it. I would like to see the different angles shown on a torque measuring device. My mind is telling me that at a right angle it would actually throw the torque off
How much does it tell you when it's tight enough my husband usually breaks it because he puts it on too tights
Great info!
Is that a Pittsburgh torque wrench?
Grandpa's logic never failed, he would just torque and say, I guess that's tight enough.!
Just found the channel and liking the content. Though I can't get past how this guy looks like the offspring of Andrew Camarata and Joe Mantegna (David Rossi of CM).
Does the torque change if I use socket extension?
No, the perpendicular distance is the same. Similar to him putting the crows foot at 90 degree angle.
How did you derive your equation? I thought it was the perpendicular distance? Is your equation based on the perpendicular component force?
That is based from formula T=Fd. Consider constant force (T/d) and use “d+2” for the spec and “d” for setting.
Awesome!
What will REALLY blow people's minds is the realization that torque specs are based on fastener perfection, and has nothing to do with the important physics of securing the fastener correctly. That's why properly torqued fasteners still occasionally fail.
I think my head gasket is blown. It just did a big exhale at a light, and spewed coolant every where. I see radiator cracked a bit open at seem, eventually trynna to get home it cracked. So I replaced the radiator.. I did not see oil in the coolant.. before all this happened.. in the radiator itself.. when just inspecting here and there. How will I know. I am going to fill up new radiator today. 2001 GC laredo 4.0 6 cyl 126 k miles. Help a girl Out. Please.
Hi bro..
Can u tell gud quality cordless polish machine
that's a common procedure torqueing an aircraft's propeller. A critical torque spec and in most cases there isn't room to insert the crow foot in any way but straight in. So the computation is necessary.
I am very relieved to hear thats a common procedure on an aircraft propeller :)
Thanks bro. Now i know.
thank you
Not sure I understand, if torque = force x distance and you are increasing your distance with the crow's foot, doesn't your torque go up? And therefore your torque spec increase instead of decrease?
If you are extending the length of the handle that would be the case, in this case you are extending the length on the other side of the pivot point (socket arbor) of the wrench. At least how I'm understanding it
Yes it would go up, which means the fastener would be over torqued - hence the calculation to reduce the setting on the torque wrench.
Remember it's only the setting that changes. The fastener will still be torqued to the correct value.
Show some work piece examples, and add some extensions in the mix.
Extensions won't change the torque number.
@@UpInSmoke54 I think the longer the extension, the more twist you get and can reduce the torque.
Yes you'll get more twist, you'll need to turn the wrench more to compensate for the extension but it won't change the torque number on the fastener.
Good one
Instead of using the formula, would choking up on the torque wrench two inches to make up for the offset work?
No, look up how a torque wrench works and you'll see why!
No, it's important that your hand is in the proper place for not only dimensional/force purposes, but also how it activates the 'clicking' mechanism.
@@raynic1173 ... actually the torque doesn't change when your grip point changes because the internals of the wrench don't change... and that's where the calibration is.
@@rupe53 you are correct I was wrong on all counts. This type of torque wrench seems independent of where the force is applied during use.
If you were going to attempt an at home style calibration using an applied force, then it would matter.
Jeff, the reason choking up 2 inches doesn't work is because there are basically, to keep is simple, two different actions going on in these barrel style 'click' wrenches.
One is the force being applied by the rear internal spring, which is adjusted by the round handle being turned in and out.
The second is the mechanical and geometry dependent part at the head and it's attached shaft. There's a set distance from the head center to end of it's shaft. At this point where the clicker is.
On one side of the clicker is the shaft head and on the other side the spring and it's tension. No matter how much you change the spring tension the head and shaft length always stays the same.
The wrench design is dependent of this internal shaft length always being the same. So if we add two inches by using a crows foot at a straight out position. We have then altered the geometry and the calibration marks are no longer valid. So then we need the math to bridge the gap.
There are many good videos on YT showing the break down of these wrenches, check them out. Personally I think the creative design is pretty amazing and to some degree the simplicity of it remarkable.
Proper job