How I Get A Nice Shine With Createx UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear.
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- Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2024
- A tutorial on how I get a nice shine using Createx UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear, including how I thin, spray, wet-sand, polish, and wax.
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The whole Createx line I flash dry between coats. I either use a hair dryer or dehydrator. With a hair dryer set to medium heat, it will be dry in about 2-3 minutes. You can watch it flash off and level off for the paints. The clear takes a bit more discernment.
Good video Stumpy! I appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate your technique 😎👍
Thanks!
Very informative video on clearing and polishing model. Thanks for sharing. Have a great weekend coming up buddy. Terry
Thanks Terry, have a great weekend as well!
Looking good. I'm not really keen on using 2K or lacquer based clears. I may give this Createx UVLS 4050 gloss clear a try.
Excellent tutorial video. I had no idea Createx could be polished out like that. You taught me something today.
You can even polish 4030, though it doesn't have the UV protection property in it. And probably it's been since this video was produced, Createx has come out with 4053 High Gloss clear. 4053 takes less buffing/polishing for more shine than 4050. 4030 takes more work than 4050.
Also 4053 is top coat only, where 4030 and 4050 are called intercoats.
Great tutorial. Shiny paint jobs have always been a struggle for me. Hopefully this helps.
Thanks for watching, I hope it helps too!
Great video Craig, my issue is not with the product it is my patience, I don't let the layers dry enough before applying the next coat. Time to give a another try. Cheers, Wayne
Thanks! Yeah, that patience thing is pretty tough, as I am a very impatient person as well. I usually try to have something else going on the bench on these occasions, it helps occupy my mind in-between coats, lol.
Having a couple of projects helps for sure, I end up cleaning the airbrush between coats to combat the tip dry and if I put 4 or 5 coats on that means I am cleaning the airbrush 4 or 5 times. Cheers@@StumpyGrumpsScaleSpeedShop
I’m also interested in how you correct the burn through after polishing. I use Createx exclusively and have never wet sanded because of being water based. I look forward to a follow up video.
For smaller areas like edges and such, I just touch-up with a brush. If it's a larger area, I will tape the area off and/or lightly airbrush on a coat or two to cover the spot, then airbrush on more clear.
Createx now has their 4053 High Gloss Clear. Haven't seen it at the local Hobby Lobby so ordered it from Spraygunner. Almost rivals 2K clear when you polish it.
Yes, I finally ordered some myself and it should be here Friday. I'll probably do a video on that too, as soon as I get familiar with using it.
I mix and spray just like the 4050. Reduce with 10-20 percent 4011 or 4012 depending on nozzle size. I have sprayed it with a .3mm nozzle but a .5mm, .65mm or .8mm work better. With a fan aircap it is even better.
Excellent video, Craig! Thanks!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Excellent video. Thank you for making this video.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Shine looks good bud. I use a very similar process with automotive 2K.👍👍
Thanks!
You have that looking pretty good!
Thanks!
That's the issue with the 4050 clear most people using dremels to polish it. It's recommended polishing at no more than 1000 rpm. It's better to use a Dremel at the lowest speed or use your finger and a microfiber towel. It's not as hard as a 2k clear
Great viedo thank you worked perfect
Awesome, glad to hear it worked well for you!
Thanks. I'm lookin to switch to acrylics and this was very useful.
Just found you stumpy. Great tutorial! Subd.
Thanks for watching, and for the sub!
I've used Createx paints for a long time, but i used automotive 2K or HS clears with great results. The only time i had to do any sanding was if i had dirt. I no longer have access to that so i tried some of the 4050 clear today. I did forget the 15 min sitting/bonding time, so I'll remember that for next time. It laid on like glass, but just like Mission Models clear, lots of texture as it dried. Nothing like what I'm used to. I guess what I'm asking, is sanding and polishing just a standard thing for water based clears?
There's no real comparison to 2K clears. I can't use them, but from everything I've seen on them you really don't have to sand or polish them. Most other clears, from Tamiya and Testors lacquers, to the water-based clears, do benefit from the wet-sanding and polishing process. It's just a matter of quality, really with the 2K's really holding the advantage, but also being fairly costly in the process. As far as the texture goes, it may have been from not letting the components combine long enough. I have tested this clear many times, and it does take a bit to really get a good mix ratio for your particular needs, which might also be causing the texture when dry.
@@StumpyGrumpsScaleSpeedShop Have you ever tried Alclad's "Klear Kote"? I tried it for the first time recently and noticed it didn't really have any orange peel to it. Their Aqua Gloss did, that one still required wet sanding and polishing but the Klear Kote seems like it's equal to 2K's in terms of not needing any sanding. I have yet to do a full car but I'm going to within the next week, so I can really see how it turns out on a larger surface. I've only tested it on spoons, so far.
How do you do your touchups where you burned through?
For very small areas, I just dab the spot with some of the extra color. If it's a larger spot, I will carefully airbrush over the spot and re-clear that area and polish it out again, but I don't tape it off as it will be noticeable.
Very nice, is the Createx UVLS toxic?
I'm not sure of the toxicity, but it is water based and has no odor.
Great tips just connected to you
Just started working with 4053, what are you using for needle size? Thanks
I use a .3 needle, usually right around 22 psi.
Do you leave the clear coat in your airbrush since you have to wait 10 to 15 minutes between coats?
Most of the time I do. Every once in a while I'll empty the cup and run thinner through, but I've never really had a problem leaving the clear in the cup. I use a retarder which helps prevent the tip from drying and slows down drying time.
Thanks I guess I will just put the cap on.
@@StumpyGrumpsScaleSpeedShop
This is beginner question?? Does the tip dry end between coats?
I usually don't have a problem with the tip drying. I do also use glycerin in my thinner mixture to prevent that issue, or a drop or two of Createx Retarder if I don't use my thinner.
Thanks!! My airbrushing isnt going to good !! @@StumpyGrumpsScaleSpeedShop
nice result. 5 coats seem a bit high though. please use another mask though. the mask your using really give your lungs and health basicly
Looks great but way to much work. PPG Shop Line clear three coats and I am done no polishing high gloss all the way. But nice work. Not a water base fan sorry. But for those who work with it good for you just does not work for. Thanks for the video!!😁
Water-based has it's uses and purposes. For me and others like me that can't spray solvent-based in the house and/or don't have a steady place to spray them, the water-based are very convenient and useful. This just shows that a nice finish can be attained using water-based paints and clears.
It's not too much work if you truly enjoy it and the positives far out way any possible negatives. Just saying! 👍
5 coats of clear ,what a joke
You seem to be living somewhere outside reality.