AUX 12000 BTU 115-Volt 17 SEER Smart Ductless Mini Split AC and Heater With 12 ft Line Set Install
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
- This AUX is one of the most inexpensive mini split AC's with inversion heat on the market. I chose it based upon its price and I knew Lowe's would stand behind their product. My first delivery arrived damaged, and Lowes replaced it! Once installed it works like it should. Although improvements could be made to make the installation and maintenance much easier. The evaporator condensate line was nearly impossible to route. And I found that the de-icing cycle for the lowest fins on the condenser coils was inadequate. However, the unit's WiFi app works flawlessly as well as its infra-red controller. If it doesn't break before the 5 year warranty on the compressor expires, I'll be a well satisfied customer.
This video helped me so much!!! Man you saved me hundreds on hiring someone!! Thank you for uploading this video! My mini split of up and running great! Thank for your help! 🍻 cheers buddy
Up in the nick of time! 92 degrees here in Florida. Mine's working great too. Glad I could help!
Nice video. Thank you for posting this. It was difficult to hear over the background noise
You are the Man! Thanks so much this really helped! Wish it had an explanation as to how you wired it, only because I’m a newbie. Thanks again
You are very welcomed!
Thanks for the video. Most of the time the pre-made Factory flares that come on these units are garbage. If not checked and reflared they are notorious for causing leaks. Also without a micron gauge it is hard to tell if you're getting a deep enough vacuum and if it is holding.
When tightening down the flare nuts without torque wrench you take the risk of a leak.
The proper way would be to torque the flare nuts down to the specifications stated in the manual then pressure test with nitrogen. Release the nitrogen after the pressure holds and pull a vacuum utilizing a micron gauge and two vacuum rated valve core removal tools one of them 5/16 and one of them 1/4 inch that way you can remove the valve core to pull a faster vacuum and you are not restricted. Nylog is also good to go on the back of the flare that way the nut does not grip the back of the flare. I did not get a chance to read the specifications but I do believe that it is probably calling for 25 amp Max. You take the amp spec that it says on the tag. Example if it pulls 11 amps you are fine with a 15 amp dedicated circuit. You need to stay within 80% if it is 12 amps or more by code you would go to a 20 amp. You only can use 80% of your breaker capacity. Also if you want to utilize a breaker amperage that is rated for your wire size. As the breaker is there to protect your wire and equipment
Thank you so much for the comment. It's obvious that you are a professional A/C tech (possibly an engineer) and that you know what you are talking about. I'm flattered that you would take the time to give us the benefit of your experience and knowledge. I learned more in your one comment than I have watching 20 RUclips videos on this subject... including my own.
The manual does not state what torque to tighten to. On this particular unit(maybe entire brand) the instructions are very vague. Using tips from the install of a large multi-zone LG unit I tightened them down part way, removed and reseated them, then tightening them down as far as I could. This worked very well and no leaks!
Very good video, but one thing I would recommend is tightening nuts to torque specified. The larger low pressure nut is tightened to about 30 ft-lbs and small line is tigtened to around 15 ft-lbs. So larger line require twice the torque of smaller line. Also you can do "pressure" test before vacuuming line without expensive professional equipment using cheap HPA tank (used in paintball) + hand pump and adapter which go from hpa tank to manifold gauge input line. Paintball tank can go to 3000 PSI, but you need only 800 PSI to pressure test the mini split system which needs only 625PSI for pressure test.
Great advice and many thanks!
Good stuff sir!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Thanks a bunch for sharing!
You bet!
The best video.
Thank you!
Great video. But not showing the disconect box with your 115 volt unit connection. For the viewers that dont know. Anyway i justt wanted to mentio that the costway mini splits are a full copy of your aux brand. Even the pipes ,rhe nuts ,the plastic covers over thw copper lines and colors. Same issue with design i had when i opened the box. Instructions not much details whatsoever and had to create my own template . I also reversed the drain line. It also comes on the opsite side of the copper lines. So i swaped the drain line to the same side of the copper lines. It has 2 drain plugs. It does have a spring bend in the copper line. Only the bigger one. Would of been nice on the small one too. The only thing the costway units dont have is the usb wifi. If. You loose or break remote you will have to use the only option auto button and one has no control over it. But thanks for sharing your video. Looks good and great job my friend.
Thank you for your comments. I deliberately omitted hooking up the disconnect box. I'm not an electrician and I don't want to leave the impression that I am one. It's a simple procedure but has the potential of injury if not done correctly. There are lots of other videos on YT that show this part of the installation from more qualified individuals. I appreciate your description of the Costway installation. They sound like good units to have. Mine is still chugging away and working 24-7 during this near-record summer heat.
I guess aux updated the unit, mine has a diagram for placement of hole and the ability to attach the condensate pipe on either side of the unit. Maybe they watched your video
That's a welcomed improvement. Mine's still chuggin' along working great.
Anyone knows where the philips screw of the front panel of the outside unit is located. At the fan or the motherboard?
its been a year, how to remove the front cover to clean water drain? having hard time to remove the front cover
Maybe the use of a micron gauge when pulling vacuum would let you know if you have a leak and if you pulled vacuum to a good level?? Maybe below 500 microns?
Supposed to switch the drain hose to the same side as the copper pipes. That way you avoid the seem where it is. Plus you get more length this way.
I looked and there was no other outlet available. Not sure if that is possible. Thanks for the suggestion though.
I know you can with Mitsubishi and Daiken, not sure about this brand though. I gotta install 4 of these ina few days... Hopefully all these pre packaged materials they already come with will help speed things up
Did you pour cement for the pads or would just cinderblocks make an acceptable base for the outside part?
I used cinder blocks on this exact same unit, so far so good, no problems
It's important that your pad does not move once it is installed. If they move or sink while the compressor is mounted, you risk introducing a bind on your line-set. This could cause breakage or a refrigerant leak. I used a pair of 4 x 12 inch concrete pads over a gravel bed. The pads and the gravel I bought from my local big box. This is not the best option but it worked for me. You can find much lighter specialty AC pads on line but they never seem to be in stock.
Great instruction video. Do the electrical cables require an external drip seal conduit or are they rated for exterior usage? Thanks
Hello, the package includes one Sealproof flexible conduit section. The aluminum flex tube seen in the video was later replaced with the same.
@@rockpaperstone8722 Thank you. I believe that was not included in my package. QC issues like you note in your video. Also just discovered that one of my line sets had been stapled through when initially packaged....now I'm on to learn how to cut & reflare the line...
Do you recommend adding dripseal to both?
OMG! I feel for ya brother! Good luck! I did not use dripseal on mine. Sounds like a good idea though.
I'm pretty sure I would return that mini split. The line set is backfilled with nitrogen to keep out the moisture during shipping. It may impact the performance of the AC if you can't evacuate all the moisture before releasing the refrigerant.
@@rockpaperstone8722The nitro released dramatically as I unscrewed the cap on the upper unit so that seems good. They are sending me a fresh line set and I have the vacuum and gauge kit so I feel pretty good that I can get it evacuated.....LMK what I should be looking out for as a sign of a problem. THanks for all your help.
This has the shutoff valves in the compressor fittings right? If I had this a running system and I would need to disconnect the lines (after shutting off the valves) and then reconnect again would this likely still have enough juice to run properly or would it lose enough that I would have to add to make up for that loss?
Don't know. You can always have a pro do it. They carry the gas around with them.
If possible, I try to go to pick up stuff like this in person, and open it up right at the store after purchasing it, that way if there's I defect, I can immediately exchange it. I check my purchases much like one would check the Mcdonalds order to make sure they the correct items. But, sometimes its not possible to do this, but its good if you can.
Yes, that is excellent advice. I usually do. I guess I was excited and in a hurry to get the unit unboxed and installed. I'll know better next time.
@@rockpaperstone8722 the fact you filmed it and uploaded it to RUclips as you unboxed it really helps to have evidence when you do make a warranty or doa claim!
Just curious why did you put ground on the screws and not in the block as marked?
It is the same point electrically and easier to access.
Aux has the option to change the drain location just saying 🤷
Do u know which side the default drain of indoor unit is located? Left or right?
Yeah, AUX is giving us option which hole will use.
I'm a little confused about the power line (not the control line) connection to the outdoor unit - the wires in mine are different colors than those in your video. Mine has ground (green), and a black wire and a white wire - where yours looks like you have a red wire. I was assuming L stood for Load and N for neutral, but you have red connected to the bottom screw on the N terminal. The manual does not say anything about hooking up the power lines, only the controller line.
Hello, I see what you mean. I will take apart the disconnect box tomorrow to confirm that Black is Line and Red is Neutral. It's dark thirty outside right now and the mosquitoes are swarming.
@@rockpaperstone8722 Don't tempt the mosquitoes! Actually, I just discovered the wiring diagram inside the metal electrical cover - it confirmed my guess as to which was hot. Thanks for the great video!
I've watched a few of these videos in prep for installing my AUX mini split and haven't seen the answer to your question but I did find it elsewhere. So when you see him attaching the cable from the inside unit to the outside Unit you will notice @ 11:06 The wires that carry the power coming out of the second conduit and attaching to the outdoor unit. The Green (ground) wire (also could be the copper Romex wire) attached to the metal frame @11:09 The wire that will come from the 25 amp circuit breaker (Black Romex wire) attaches to the connection labeled "L" and the wire coming from the load center's neutral bar (White Romex wire) will attach to the connector labeled "N" (you may or may not have a disconnect switch between here and the circuit breaker (I don't think a disconnect is required for 110 volt circuits). For 25 amp circuit you must use either a 12 gauge wire rated for 25 amps (will say on product label) if not use 10 gauge wire. (either 12/2 for 25 amp or 10/2)
Question about the cable you tied up and pulled thru, they have only one wire exposed, the other three are covered up with plastic, can you tell me what you did with those?
They were the AC power and evaporator control wires that terminate in the AC disconnect box and the compressor unit.
Have this same unit. I appreciate the video to install this, helped a lot.
Just one question, does anyone know how to set the temp for auto mode? I can set it on auto but the temperature is unable to be changed from 75deg.
I tried setting up the Auto Mode once and it just didn't work right for me. Not sure what it's supposed to do. You would think you could give it one temp for heat and it would cool for anything below. Sorry, wish I could remember how I programmed it.
Do you match up the connections 12345 from the outside to inside?
Try using the manual, page 4.8. pdf.lowes.com/productdocuments/31c15129-517f-4f31-bd83-f0ced8c647c0/63993221.pdf?_gl=1*1p17wmt*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE3MDk1NzE3NTQuYWUwNGQzMmRiNWU1MTZmYTNlNmFiNmM4NGI2M2IzMzc.*_gcl_au*MTY5Mzk3NzEzOS4xNzA1OTM3NjY2
Hi!! I ordered this exact mini split but the WiFi module wasn’t in it!! We got it in June and we’ll ofc it’s too late to say anything now.. what do I do? I just assumed the WiFi pry didn’t work! I just found this out 😢 can I order this part??
Hi, you could try installing this Aus replacement that I found online. I haven't ordered one so I can't guarantee that it will work. Here is a link to the Aux product: www.auxusa.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74
I am assuming that on the bottom 2 wire termination, the red wire is the neutral?
Please refer to the manual: pdf.lowes.com/productdocuments/31c15129-517f-4f31-bd83-f0ced8c647c0/63993221.pdf?_gl=1*1p17wmt*_gcl_dc*R0NMLjE3MDk1NzE3NTQuYWUwNGQzMmRiNWU1MTZmYTNlNmFiNmM4NGI2M2IzMzc.*_gcl_au*MTY5Mzk3NzEzOS4xNzA1OTM3NjY2
Great video. One thing though how does one hook the power from the house to the unit?
You need to have a dedicated 15 amp circuit breaker wired to a UL approved disconnect box. Then wire the disconnect box to the compressor. My disconnect box is required by code and is there to protect service personnel while they are working on the compressor. Please have a licensed electrician do this.
@@rockpaperstone8722 so even tho the system calls for 25 amp you can hook it up to a 15 amp dedicated breaker? I have basic knowledge enough to hook it all up myself just a little unlearned when it comes to amperages
Again, I highly recommend that you use a licensed electrician to install the disconnect. I just checked the breaker size on the AUX and it is 15 amp. Doesn't mean it's right but I've never had to reset it. In fact, it's the same breaker that I used for my previous and smaller mini-split. Somehow it never got changed up when I installed the new AUX.
You forgot to pump it up and check for leaks before pumping it down. I always double evac with nitro as well
Good suggestion! Sounds like you're a pro. Thanks for the comment.
I don't think it's necessary for small mini split systems. Tightening the lineset nuts to right torque and vigilently looking for any leaks at the joints after full pressurization is all that's needed. Vacuum test by itself of course does not guarentee that there wouldn't be any leaks after pressurization, but if it passes vacuum test, any leak will not be major leak. If there are any slight leak, then just tighten down the nut a bit more to fix the issue. But you can still do pressure test without any professional equipment. Just get a cheap HPA tank (used for paintball) and adapter to go from paintball tank to manifold gague hose. Fill your HPA tank to 800 PSI and then hook it up to manifold gauge which is hooked up to the mini spllit and pressureize system to 625 PSI and watch for any leaks. You got your pressure test! Sure it's air, not nitrogen, but since air is 80% nitrogen, it's good enough.
Do these units “have” to be be vacuumed down? Or can you just release the Freon into the system?
Yes, you must evacuate the line set and evaporator before backfilling with the refrigerant stored in the condenser.
@@rockpaperstone8722 g8. vid, but you skipped the part I was specifically looking for. low & hi side readings, what happened when you opened the suction side (what psi)?
Thanks for the kudos. I just watched the video and I see what you mean. I'm not sure what it was. It's been too long ago for me to remember. The AC has been running great since the installation.
Have the new line sets installed and running the vacuum pump. It seems to bring the pressure down but I am still seeing vapor come out of pump after 30-40 minutes. Does that indicate that there is still moisture in line?
Not sure what it means but mine did that too. Just lock off the pump and make sure that the line set holds vacuum. If it does you are home free.
@@rockpaperstone8722 just checked and I’ve lost vacuum….I’m not getting any air bubbles when I check the connections. I’m going to disconnect and reconnect the line sets. Any other key places to trouble shoot?
Double check and make sure that you have closed the correct valves on your manifold block. Re-seat all the gauge lines. Then re=try the pump down. The only valve that should be open during your wait period goes to the gauge.
Ok- update time. Redid all of my connections, got a vacuum to hold for 24. Opened up the service ports and brought it up to 200. Turned on system and it’s been cooling nicely. However the gauge has dropped to 150. Should I’ve closed the service port after release the Freon? I just went to disconnect my gauge and pump and there was a hissing pressure release…I screwed the adaptor back on and walked away. Am I leaking Freon? Thanks.
You have to leave the service ports open after releasing the freon for it to circulate. I had my gauge set connected on the low-pressure side during evacuation. After releasing the freon, I immediately removed the gauge set. Hopefully, the hissing that you heard was temporary due to a moment that the Shrader valve in the line set wasn't fully closed.
just got the same unit and am hiring a tech to install it.i like ur video presentation because it's too neat n professional work.mine will be installed in the bonus room (240sqft) and can u give me an idea how much will it cost me to pay the installer?have a great day,sir.thank you...
$10K? maybe $15K? It pays to learn how to do this yourself.
Did the charging adapter come with the unit ? If not where did you buy it. Thanks in advance just ordered the mini split from Lowe’s
Hi. No, you will have to order one.
Got it from Amazon.
Thanks
How do I fix error code P6?
You wouldn't happen to have a pic of your disconnect and the outside unit, I think my wiring from there is off.
Do you have a parts list or links by chance ? :)
This guy has a good list in his commets: ruclips.net/video/2mKwCmaR5Qg/видео.html
Where did you buy the Vacuum pump?
Hello, Amazon. It is a Zeny vacuum pump: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012CFTYX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pioneer port adapter:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D96EWKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
0:14 you don’t seemed phased at all by how much Emerson ripped you off. Did you get a refund?
It wasn't installed by a licensed AC contractor which voided the warranty. So yeah, I had to eat the expenses.
Hello! By any chance did you have to use any gas with this? or need a permit to pay gas for this?
No, this system came pre-charged. Most new mini-split systems are always pre-charged with refrigerant. That's why you must be extra careful while installing it. If you lose your refrigerant or need to re-charge a mini-split, it is best to hire a licensed contractor to refill it.
@@rockpaperstone8722 Thank you so much for the reply!
Show the electrical connections in outdoor unit please
Try this: ruclips.net/video/c3fpmLjP6dU/видео.html
what is wrong with the audio?
Does this wire up to a 1 pole 20 amp or 2 pole
Check this out: ruclips.net/video/c3fpmLjP6dU/видео.html
Is aux or aurus better
Howdy. Is this an inverter unit
Sure is. Bought at Lowes.
what the heck is L N S?
Does this aux still work
Yep, still working. So far, it's been a good mini split. Heat cycle saved me some bucks this winter.
I guess for the price is OK but quality is questionable on this units. You should not have to modify the unit to do what is supposed to, that don't help other customers that are trying to save by going with a mini split in the first place. the app is a nightmare according to google play reviews. Will this unit work with the smart home app? I have a Mirage in the living room, and for a little more it comes with great specs and WIFI and works with smart life app so no need to have 3 or 4 apps to achieve the same thing that one can do. Good video by the way.
Thanks for the comments. Yeah, for the money it has been a good investment for me. The app has worked great. I've noticed that you will have to re-enter your password now and then if you haven't used it in a while. Other than that... no complaints.
My control board is bad can not get a replacement!!! SUCKS
Does it come with Wi-Fi deal mines didn’t come with it
Warning to all millennial and gen z to play this at 2x speed