Great explanations and appreciate the step-by-step. Also appreciate the calm and patient tone, actually makes approaching the job for the first seem less intimidating. Thank you!
Just picked up my first bike, a 2002 DRZ 400 in dire need of new tires. Picked up some tires from a local shop and came home to do a youtube search on how to take things apart. Honestly, you need to dabble in every vehicle I own, because other than those crazy Newton Meter figures, you make what seems like a hard job-very easy. Thanks for the front and rear wheel removal vids-so very helpful!
Thanks! 10.5 years later this helped me:) I guess you could also do like this to make sure the brake caliper is aligned as good as it can be: Torque the brake caliper before the wheel axle nut (20 Nn). Rotate the wheel and pump the brake a couple of times, before torqueing down the wheel axle clamp screws. That's what you do on sportbikes. Not sure it would make a difference on a DRZ though, but it might :)
@@MuddySump , got ya!, and yes I think you might be correct about that. On the DRZ the caliper is attached from the side, and the alignment is what it is🤔
Hey Muddy, followed your instructions only to find that the speedo housing moved forward while riding snapping the cable. I then found out that the housing is supposed to be secured by putting it under the lip not on top! Just letting you know so no one else makes the same mistake as new cable is $59 here in Australia! Otherwise great vid!
+Liz Cooper 😕 was the axle nut tight? It can't usually move when it's tightened down. It seemed to be at too much of an angle for the throttle cable when it was under the tab
I got the speedo drive right, but I did the pinch bolts before the axle nut, as the Suzuki manual (which is terrible) says that its a REVERSE of the removal. Now Ive got play, and not sure if my bearings are shot :/
@@MuddySump If anyone else sees this comment and panics. What is shown in the video is correct. as per manual "Align the speedometer drive unit so it is at the proper angle. when properly aligned, the unit rests against the stop on the fork leg." Make sure you are following the pre tightening of the axle nut before the pinch bolts. MuddySump even makes sure the speedo is secure before doing the pinch blots and final torque of the axle nut. 9 years later this video helped me but I make sure to double check youtube work. You don't have to remove the brake calipers but it does make the job a little easier. Great work on this video. Thanks so much for making it!
MuddySump I did this on my 400S the other day after replacing the front disc. I noticed that some people bounce the front suspension before torqueing up the pinch bolts, so I did this... but you didn't? Is there any reason why people do this bouncing. if it's not required I won't do it again as I meant taking the bike off the stand! One thing for future is I didn't do the two stage torque of the axle nut... hmm.
I've never heard of the bouncing the front end before torquing technique. The 2 stage torque of the axle nut is what it says to do in the manual. I'd guess that the first one is just to pull everything together where it needs to be before tightening the pinch bolts then tightening the nut further to keep it on.
A guy did the bouncing on an Enduro tour I did in Spain when swapping a tube on the trials. I'll re-torque the axle as per the manual, I'd best print some sheets off from the manual and keep them in the garage. Cheers for the advice!
You skipped the most important step. After tightening the axle nut you want to jounce the front suspension to align the shocks BEFORE tightening the pinch bolts.
Actually MuddyStump did this correctly... Watupal, the spacers lock in the correct spacing for the front forks, they must seat for the torque specs to hold on the axle nut.
I skipped that too, as it is not mentioned in the manual. As a result the fork legs were not totally aligned, which made the fork be much harder to compress. I even tgought to order a harder shock spring to make back stiffer, tgus making the front be softer. Thanks to an unexpected guess of my drz pal, we loosened the pinch bolts on the right side (the hex side of the axle, not the nut side), bounced the fork for a couple of minutes until it got softer, tightened the pinch bolts.... And it was magic - the fork changed completely. Thanks to my pal, i have no need to spend money on the unnecessary back spring!
Thanks Laz. No you don't really need a torque wrench. What I noticed when putting it back together is you tighten the nut till the speedo drive doesn't spin freely anymore, tighten the pinch bolts, then do a final tighten of the nut. It isn't really that tight anyway 42Nm.
@@MuddySump I just finished installing tires on my DRZ, followed your videos to the letter (thanks for the torque specs in metric and English, BTW), and both went on w/o a hitch!!! Thanks again!!!!!!
Forgive me for asking But... Should the speedometer drive not be behind the stop on the fork bottom. Rather than just pushed back to rest against it? Thus stopping it from rotating forward & breaking the cable. As per your instructions. It would only stop the drive unit rotating. If the bike was rolling backwards.
@@MuddySump I do not wish to argue but. I have the genuine suzuki service manual for the Drz400e. It clearly shows it behind the stop. I agree the cable is a tight fit to the fork bottom. Meaning the cable cannot be removed or replaced with the drive unit in place. The cable must be installed prior to inserting the axle.
I would love to see one of the steering stem bearing removal and regreasing.. :) I have been thinking i might do a few videos myself once the weather get warmer here
Teng tools are good and can sometimes get a good price online. That’s what my two smaller ones are. The big torque wrench I’ve got is from Halfords in the uk.
@@Eric-nb7vg yes, it’s the spacer for that side. I think there was somewhere made a standard one to replace it but if you’re still running a speedo cable then you need it for the cable still
I'm just wondering if it was necessary to take the brake caliper off, if you left it on wouldn't the front disk still be able to just slid out of the caliper and off the bike?
Followed video exactly and yet after taking the wheel and brake calipers off 8 times, the wheel is either too tight to move at all or is tough to move. Idk if it is the brake calipers holding up the wheel or what is wrong with it. I'm about to just sell the damn thing.
Try it with the brake pads out. If it spins then it’s the brakes seizing on a bit. Try give the brake pistons a clean and see if you can push them back.
Hey muddysump I recently removed my rear wheel and I can't get my bearings to move like you do in the video with my finger at all. Its probably best to replace them right away before riding so nothing bad happens right?
Bballa11 Hi, Sometimes they can be hard to move by hand and still be ok. The allballs ones that i put in the rear wheel in the video started to turn hard to move by hand and now have already turned rough when moving them so need replacing again, hoping it was just a bad set cause ive got another set to fit now. The bearings wont just instantly fail, you could wait and try them again after a couple of rides or just replace now and not have to think about it. They are cheap enough to replace
Thanks for the reply, I think for now when i get time ill put wheel back on and rotate it see how it feels or if makes any noise and if not Ill just ride like you said for bit of time and see if anything weird happens then ill change. These are the same bearings I had last year and the bike rode fine so im sure it will probably be ok atleast hopefully tell next tire change. Your videos really helped me to remove my wheels and put em back on thanks. If i ever do go and change the bearings ill use ur video
Great vid mate but I don't understand why you removed the brake caliper as the rotor will slide right out and then before install just gently prise the pads back a bit to give extra room for fitting the rotate between the pads.
Im trying to retrofit Drz SM wheels to Ktm LC4. Rear wheel fits nice, but Ktm front wheel axle bolt diameter is 25mm (not 20mm like drz). Do i have to change the entire front hub, or maybe drz front axle bolt will fit ? Thanks
If anyone is struggling with the same problem - i found a rear axle bolt from Honda 250. Fits perfectly with my DRZ wheels and LC4 forks. Just some spacers needed to correct the offset :)
hay mate can u put up a video on how to change a cluch my cluch is stopped working and i dont know why i think it is leeking some ware and dont know how to fix it pleas can you help?
@@MuddySump I assume you followed the manual? I did find a thread about this that was ten years old. Several wrote they got the bike new from the dealer with the lip inwards.
Got another question for you, if you don't mind: My battery was dead, so I pulled it out and trickle charged it for 6 hours. The bike started up ONCE today and I took it for a spin in the neighborhood, but then it died out (luckily while I was back at my Apt) and I could not kick it back up for anything. My foot is probably bruised I kicked it so many times. There could be something up with the fuel petcock too. I could only start it up with the petcock set to Reserve. Any recommendations on what I can do to get it running right? It sat with a little gas in for about 8 months (guy who sold it to me said he "tried to burn it all out"), so the carbs are probably just gummed up...at least I hope that's all it is.
sorry forgot about your message. Do you think it is fuel or electrical fault causing the bike is die? Could try taking the fuel line off the petcock and then turning the tap to on and reserve to see if fuel comes out. Do you have a meter to check the voltage of the battery?
Have you got the front brake lever pulled in? Just take the calliper off and use a screwdriver to open the pads a bit so you. Can get the disc back in. It's less fiddly to do with the calliper off
@@MuddySump I didn't every time, but had fork leaks on two different bikes after replacing a front tire. Once I was shown how to do it right, I never had the problem again. It doesn't take any longer, just a matter of bouncing the wheel to align it, and the sequence of tightening the bolts.
That makes more sense now :-) did your chain snap and brake the housing? I'm afraid it might be a case of it needing a new part. If that is leaking then the clutch isn't going to work cause it can't hold any pressure. Same as if you've got air in your brake lines, it can't get pressure in them to push the pads onto the disc
That's cracking! I personally use my own inbuilt torque gauge.. mostly because I don't own one. :P Would you want to post these sort of things on suzukidrz (dot) com? I never meant to be the sole owner of that site, kind of wanted more people to contribute. :P
Not on the drz but seen on other adventure bikes. You’ll want some longer links to lower the bike at the back and push the forks further up in the clamps too to make it level again
I referenced your video today 11 years later. Thank you for making these
10 Years later - the video helped me (2001 DRZ400e). Thanks!
👍🏻
Great explanations and appreciate the step-by-step. Also appreciate the calm and patient tone, actually makes approaching the job for the first seem less intimidating. Thank you!
Thanks
Just picked up my first bike, a 2002 DRZ 400 in dire need of new tires. Picked up some tires from a local shop and came home to do a youtube search on how to take things apart. Honestly, you need to dabble in every vehicle I own, because other than those crazy Newton Meter figures, you make what seems like a hard job-very easy. Thanks for the front and rear wheel removal vids-so very helpful!
Sooooo helpful! Thanks so much!
Thanks! 10.5 years later this helped me:) I guess you could also do like this to make sure the brake caliper is aligned as good as it can be:
Torque the brake caliper before the wheel axle nut (20 Nn). Rotate the wheel and pump the brake a couple of times, before torqueing down the wheel axle clamp screws. That's what you do on sportbikes. Not sure it would make a difference on a DRZ though, but it might :)
I do it that way when the caliper bolts are fastened in from the top
@@MuddySump , got ya!, and yes I think you might be correct about that. On the DRZ the caliper is attached from the side, and the alignment is what it is🤔
Hey Muddy, followed your instructions only to find that the speedo housing moved forward while riding snapping the cable. I then found out that the housing is supposed to be secured by putting it under the lip not on top! Just letting you know so no one else makes the same mistake as new cable is $59 here in Australia! Otherwise great vid!
+Liz Cooper 😕 was the axle nut tight? It can't usually move when it's tightened down. It seemed to be at too much of an angle for the throttle cable when it was under the tab
Yeah just did the same thing :(
I got the speedo drive right, but I did the pinch bolts before the axle nut, as the Suzuki manual (which is terrible) says that its a REVERSE of the removal. Now Ive got play, and not sure if my bearings are shot :/
Ok, fitted today with speedo lug in front of fork notch and does not move if wheel is fitted correctly
@@MuddySump If anyone else sees this comment and panics. What is shown in the video is correct. as per manual "Align the speedometer drive unit so it is at the proper angle. when properly aligned, the unit rests against the stop on the fork leg." Make sure you are following the pre tightening of the axle nut before the pinch bolts. MuddySump even makes sure the speedo is secure before doing the pinch blots and final torque of the axle nut. 9 years later this video helped me but I make sure to double check youtube work. You don't have to remove the brake calipers but it does make the job a little easier. Great work on this video. Thanks so much for making it!
love your vids.. keep em coming.. you have such a calming easy to listen to voice def helps a lot!
Great videos and very helpful tips for a new DRZ owner!
+motofun fz thanks. Enjoy your bike 👍🏼
Hi - Have watched this a couple of times now and feel confident to have a go at the weekend. Great vid - Cheers
Cool. Good luck, there really is nothing to it
MuddySump Success - no problems. Thanks for the video. Have you done a change the wheel bearings one? Cheers
There's a video for the rear wheel bearings. Front is the same procedure but with only 2 bearings
Very good! Having the torque specs made the jib much faster! Thanks!
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks, glad they're helping people
thanks man. i just got a pair of SM wheels and i need this video. hopefully ill find the rear wheel removal too.
Great, simple, but with just enough detail. Just what I needed. Thanks!
+Aida G no problem, thanks for watching
Thanks - very clear. I've got the manual at home, but seeing it done is much better.
👍🏼
Thanks, you enjoying your DRZ? Its an excellent bike. What else have you got?
11 years later I’m watching this before taking my wheels to get new tires mounted
🤙🏼
Very helpful. Just bought a 400S so your vids are great research for future jobs.
Thanks. Think the S is pretty much all the same as the E
MuddySump I did this on my 400S the other day after replacing the front disc. I noticed that some people bounce the front suspension before torqueing up the pinch bolts, so I did this... but you didn't? Is there any reason why people do this bouncing. if it's not required I won't do it again as I meant taking the bike off the stand! One thing for future is I didn't do the two stage torque of the axle nut... hmm.
I've never heard of the bouncing the front end before torquing technique. The 2 stage torque of the axle nut is what it says to do in the manual. I'd guess that the first one is just to pull everything together where it needs to be before tightening the pinch bolts then tightening the nut further to keep it on.
A guy did the bouncing on an Enduro tour I did in Spain when swapping a tube on the trials. I'll re-torque the axle as per the manual, I'd best print some sheets off from the manual and keep them in the garage. Cheers for the advice!
He was probably just trying to get the tyre bead to seat properly after changing the tube.
Thanks, still got more to do :)
Nice job. Very helpful video. I’m buying a bike soon and I’m sure this video will help me out.
👍🏻 enjoy the bike
You skipped the most important step. After tightening the axle nut you want to jounce the front suspension to align the shocks BEFORE tightening the pinch bolts.
Hopefully everyone reads your comment then 🧐
Actually MuddyStump did this correctly... Watupal, the spacers lock in the correct spacing for the front forks, they must seat for the torque specs to hold on the axle nut.
I skipped that too, as it is not mentioned in the manual. As a result the fork legs were not totally aligned, which made the fork be much harder to compress. I even tgought to order a harder shock spring to make back stiffer, tgus making the front be softer.
Thanks to an unexpected guess of my drz pal, we loosened the pinch bolts on the right side (the hex side of the axle, not the nut side), bounced the fork for a couple of minutes until it got softer, tightened the pinch bolts.... And it was magic - the fork changed completely.
Thanks to my pal, i have no need to spend money on the unnecessary back spring!
Awesome mate cheers so much for the vid. I don't have a torque wrench though is it bad if i don't use one?
Thanks Laz. No you don't really need a torque wrench. What I noticed when putting it back together is you tighten the nut till the speedo drive doesn't spin freely anymore, tighten the pinch bolts, then do a final tighten of the nut. It isn't really that tight anyway 42Nm.
awesome cheers mate, i have to remove mine to get a new tyre. Typed into youyube and up popped ur vid. Helped alot cheers again.
Thanks MuddyStump, well recored and explained...!!!
Thanks 👍🏻
@@MuddySump I just finished installing tires on my DRZ, followed your videos to the letter (thanks for the torque specs in metric and English, BTW), and both went on w/o a hitch!!! Thanks again!!!!!!
yes thx i am just trying to put some smaller wheels on because my bikes a bit big so thx this helped
What size are you fitting? The super moto wheels?
Forgive me for asking But...
Should the speedometer drive not be behind the stop on the fork bottom. Rather than just pushed back to rest against it? Thus stopping it from rotating forward & breaking the cable. As per your instructions. It would only stop the drive unit rotating. If the bike was rolling backwards.
That’s what you would think but when it’s behind it the throttle cable is at too much of an angle. The manual says to go in front of it too
@@MuddySump
I do not wish to argue but.
I have the genuine suzuki service manual for the Drz400e. It clearly shows it behind the stop.
I agree the cable is a tight fit to the fork bottom. Meaning the cable cannot be removed or replaced with the drive unit in place. The cable must be installed prior to inserting the axle.
@@squigmcguigan8965 it’s the clymer manual I’ve got. I’ll have another look but pretty sure it said in front in that.
This video is very well done!
Thanks 👍🏻
Thank you for sharing.
No problem. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
I would love to see one of the steering stem bearing removal and regreasing.. :) I have been thinking i might do a few videos myself once the weather get warmer here
Your voice is so nice 😭❤
Thanks? 😶
Noob here with noob question. Can you recommend a good torque wrench?
Teng tools are good and can sometimes get a good price online. That’s what my two smaller ones are. The big torque wrench I’ve got is from Halfords in the uk.
hey, me again, why do you have 2 cables to your caliper?
One of them is the speedo sensor for the trail tech speedo
@@MuddySump hey, thanks for getitng back. so the sensor on the other side works also as a spacer? you can not have it removed, right?
@@Eric-nb7vg yes, it’s the spacer for that side. I think there was somewhere made a standard one to replace it but if you’re still running a speedo cable then you need it for the cable still
@@MuddySump thats what i thought. thanks
@@MuddySump thanks again
I'm just wondering if it was necessary to take the brake caliper off, if you left it on wouldn't the front disk still be able to just slid out of the caliper and off the bike?
+Doug Maverick yes you can leave it on and wiggle the wheel out. It's just two more bolts though
Followed video exactly and yet after taking the wheel and brake calipers off 8 times, the wheel is either too tight to move at all or is tough to move. Idk if it is the brake calipers holding up the wheel or what is wrong with it. I'm about to just sell the damn thing.
Try it with the brake pads out. If it spins then it’s the brakes seizing on a bit. Try give the brake pistons a clean and see if you can push them back.
Hey muddysump I recently removed my rear wheel and I can't get my bearings to move like you do in the video with my finger at all. Its probably best to replace them right away before riding so nothing bad happens right?
Bballa11 Hi, Sometimes they can be hard to move by hand and still be ok. The allballs ones that i put in the rear wheel in the video started to turn hard to move by hand and now have already turned rough when moving them so need replacing again, hoping it was just a bad set cause ive got another set to fit now. The bearings wont just instantly fail, you could wait and try them again after a couple of rides or just replace now and not have to think about it. They are cheap enough to replace
Thanks for the reply, I think for now when i get time ill put wheel back on and rotate it see how it feels or if makes any noise and if not Ill just ride like you said for bit of time and see if anything weird happens then ill change. These are the same bearings I had last year and the bike rode fine so im sure it will probably be ok atleast hopefully tell next tire change. Your videos really helped me to remove my wheels and put em back on thanks. If i ever do go and change the bearings ill use ur video
Great vid mate but I don't understand why you removed the brake caliper as the rotor will slide right out and then before install just gently prise the pads back a bit to give extra room for fitting the rotate between the pads.
Glenn Weltner I couldn't pull mine out like that, couldn't move the pads back. I've changed the caliper seals since then and it's alright now.
.
Thanks, I needed this video. :-)
👍🏼
Thank you. I believe my spacer on the left side is able to rotate - is this supposed to happen? or is it supposed to be tight?
just noticed this is for DRZ400 E and i have 400S if it matters?
E & S are pretty much the same. I don’t think it should move. Is the axle nut tight enough?
Thank you!!!
No worries
Thank you :)
👍🏼
A++
Im trying to retrofit Drz SM wheels to Ktm LC4. Rear wheel fits nice, but Ktm front wheel axle bolt diameter is 25mm (not 20mm like drz). Do i have to change the entire front hub, or maybe drz front axle bolt will fit ?
Thanks
The axle might be too skinny for the ktm forks. Could get different wheel bearings?
If anyone is struggling with the same problem - i found a rear axle bolt from Honda 250. Fits perfectly with my DRZ wheels and LC4 forks. Just some spacers needed to correct the offset :)
hay mate can u put up a video on how to change a cluch my cluch is stopped working and i dont know why i think it is leeking some ware and dont know how to fix it pleas can you help?
Whats happening with it? It's a cable clutch, not hydraulic on the drz so shouldn't be leaking/need bleeding.
The lip on the wheel spacer to the outside? That doesn’t make any sense at all
It will only fit in the seal one way.
@@MuddySump I assume you followed the manual? I did find a thread about this that was ten years old. Several wrote they got the bike new from the dealer with the lip inwards.
Yes, just rechecked the book. Definitely has the lip to the outside.
@@MuddySump Thank you for checking!
What can I use to hold up the bike while the wheel is off, a 5-gallon bucket?
If you think it will be strong enough. You can get some cheap stands for dirt bikes that go under the middle of the bike
Sweet, thanks. I just actually used a larger car jack and it worked well!
Good thinking
Got another question for you, if you don't mind:
My battery was dead, so I pulled it out and trickle charged it for 6 hours. The bike started up ONCE today and I took it for a spin in the neighborhood, but then it died out (luckily while I was back at my Apt) and I could not kick it back up for anything. My foot is probably bruised I kicked it so many times. There could be something up with the fuel petcock too. I could only start it up with the petcock set to Reserve.
Any recommendations on what I can do to get it running right? It sat with a little gas in for about 8 months (guy who sold it to me said he "tried to burn it all out"), so the carbs are probably just gummed up...at least I hope that's all it is.
sorry forgot about your message. Do you think it is fuel or electrical fault causing the bike is die? Could try taking the fuel line off the petcock and then turning the tap to on and reserve to see if fuel comes out. Do you have a meter to check the voltage of the battery?
great vids, but cant hear half of it. maybe move the mic closer? or just talk a little louder?
+ChKn Livers early videos. I was using the cameras built in camera then. Ended up getting external mic in later videos
can one of you guys help me I tried putting my wheel back on but my brake pads are closed and I can't slide my wheel in there
Have you got the front brake lever pulled in? Just take the calliper off and use a screwdriver to open the pads a bit so you. Can get the disc back in. It's less fiddly to do with the calliper off
Ok sweet thanks
Wrong. Doing it this way will likely put your right fork in a bind and the suspension won't perform properly. It may also cause fork leaks.
Never had any problems doing it that way
@@MuddySump I didn't every time, but had fork leaks on two different bikes after replacing a front tire. Once I was shown how to do it right, I never had the problem again. It doesn't take any longer, just a matter of bouncing the wheel to align it, and the sequence of tightening the bolts.
Hay no my slave cylinder has a bit that got smashed of by my chain and has leaked can u help
Can you send me a picture to service@muddysump.com ?
forgot to tell you i have a KTM so a hydrolic clutch
That makes more sense now :-) did your chain snap and brake the housing? I'm afraid it might be a case of it needing a new part. If that is leaking then the clutch isn't going to work cause it can't hold any pressure. Same as if you've got air in your brake lines, it can't get pressure in them to push the pads onto the disc
you didn't true your wheel/forks
That's cracking! I personally use my own inbuilt torque gauge.. mostly because I don't own one. :P Would you want to post these sort of things on suzukidrz (dot) com? I never meant to be the sole owner of that site, kind of wanted more people to contribute. :P
Any experience with lowering links , i was just gives an 01 drz and its quite tall and I'm not
Not on the drz but seen on other adventure bikes. You’ll want some longer links to lower the bike at the back and push the forks further up in the clamps too to make it level again