Can You Remove The Vacuum Canisters On A N54 BMW?
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- In this video we discuss possibly removing the vacuum canisters on an N54 powered BMW. This topic has come up and a few viewers asked that I look into this.
We explore this on my 2008 BMW E90 335i.
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Coming from only working on
Thank you for continuing to make these videos on the 335i, And thanks for all the DIY over the years on that car. The vac canisters take up a good amount of space, happy to see something that tells us why they are there.
I dont have the canisters and It explains why when i go WOT and then slam on my brakes and then go WOT, it takes a milli second for my acceleration to kick in, feels like the transmission slips, now makes sense on why it happens and its only when im going WOT and slam on my brakes and then go WOT, thanks for the info, love your channel you make things much easier 👍
Thank you brother!! When I purchased my mom's car one canister was broken and thrown a check engine light so I got a sweet deal on and I couldn't pass. I just teed off the 2 vacuum lines into one canister and been rolling for over a year now. Still great Info
Technically the boost solenoids are tees off aswell. I’m guessing for redundant ?
Those are one of the first things I removed, along with the stock cowlings. Live in Florida so I do benefit from lower/quicker to fall oil temps from cowl removal (BMS filters). I just want the most amount of extra room possible in the engine bay for easy maintaining down the road. Never noticed a single issue with the canisters gone
If the engineers and manufacturers spent the money to put them there.... they’re needed. 🙄
SoCal Realtor Might be recommended, but fore sure not needed. I had to remove the canisters due to buying relocated inlets and not being able to put them back on. Been like that for about 10K miles and haven’t had a single issue. It took about 100 miles for the DME to learn that they weren’t there (weird stuttering) but after that haven’t had any issues so far.
oof oof how does it feel when you break boost?
oof oof surely you can remove it.... but surely the manufacturer has it there for a reason. They don’t spend all those engineering dollars for shits and giggles
Haven't had mine for years and yes I can brake boost and no I haven't had any problems some of yall are chumps, don't know what your talking about.
RUclips needs to allow us to add pics to these comments. I've got some great pics of my engine bay, with these canisters relocated to between the drivers side front shock assembly wall, and the Charge pipe. There are two OCC's just behind them and beside the rear of the manifold. The power steering housing is just in front of them, with the coolant overflow box just in front of that. So that entire side of the engine is open and extremely easy to work on. The intake cones have been relocated to the other side of the engine, which got everyone on the forums up in arms with the hot intake comments. But I've been trying to explain to them that the 7.5" aftermarket intercooler takes care of the so called, "hot air" before pushing the actual cold air into the charge pipe. Works very, very well.
I have been looking for real info on these canisters but so much contradictory bs I kept finding. Needed this one lol
Rest assured that if the manufacturer included a part on a car it is necessary in some circumstance. Cars are very cost optimized because thousands or millions are made. They only include the parts they need for performance and regulatory reasons.
The regulatory reasons are reason to delete parts from the manufacturer. They rob proformance and cause premature engine failures.
This explains a lot. My E92 would always fall on its face at WOT. When I had it in for a service the tech noticed it was missing one of them and sorted it.
what they do? also did u get a 30ff code for it?
You really do have some of the best n54 videos out there. Thanks for sharing
I was trying to get to my front turbo and see what was rattling. I did rebuild my engine and turbos. So i noticed that maybe one of my lines is leaking. Anyways. I broke the bottom nipple of my canister and i lead me to this video. I think this video gave me Knowledge and i thank you. I assume once i fix my boost leak maybe one of my turbos will finally close on de-accelaration and not rattle
Very informative videos! Technically the wastegates are electronically controlled via solenoids that control vaccum to the wastegates. Also BMW is the only manufacturer with this type of wastegate control. All other conventional type wastegates use boost pressure to control wastegates, other than the newer fully electronic wastegates. BMW basically designed there wastegates opposite of conventional for safety. So the rest state of the wastegates are open instead of the usual rest state of closed.
Removed them on several N54’s and I loved the way the boost came on without them. Seemed to spool harder
Interesting. Maybe a datalog with and without them would tell a lot.
@@VehicularDIY that would be a great video!
Vehicular DIY make that video!
Thanks for sharing... I was wondering about these two cans in my engine compartment.
Great explanation. I’m chasing some boost target issues now and narrowed it down to the solenoids. No codes but boost fluctuates rapidly 2-3 psi when over 13psi. I wondered if I had a leak but car runs amazing on stage 1. Stage 1+ gets weird.
Brah! Very good illustration regarding the vacuum. Well done🤙🏻🏄
Thanks for taking the time to explain this!
2 Years of running without them here, last year has been at 24 psi on DAW 775RS turbos. No boost issues here
Good to know.
@@VehicularDIY Great video nonetheless. I only removed mine for relocation inlets. Your vids have helped me with this build more than anyone else's so thanks for consistently putting out content
@@WalrusPowder you might just not feel it as an issue. I mean, with the canister you have the reserve of vacuum that is available immediately, w/o the canister you might have to wait till vacuum builds up, and not always you can feel it, but the power delivery might be slightly delayed because of that
@@ArtemDzhadzha I do a lot of logging since I tuned my own car, so I know that's not true in my case. That being said, I have heard if you're at different elevations it could have an effect. - also there is always vacuum right at your boost solenoids so there isn't a delay.
trying to understand why there are two separate canisters and solenoids yet the outlets of the solenoids are Tee'd together going to the wastegates
When i deleted mine I initially used the wrong diameter hose thinking “vacuum is vacuum” and ended up with almost uncontrollable wastegates, and vacuum solenoid codes. after re sizing I enjoyed the “big turbo boost spike” feeling i got without the canisters
Interesting so it made the car more fun to drive?
Vehicular DIY I think so.. it definitely made the transition into boost more noticeable.
Im not sure if I deleted them the right way, i just hooked the lines to themselves with a vacuum adapter, but i agree i do feel like the boost comes in more predictable and more like a single.
What diameter did you go with initially and what size did you go with to fix it ?
Did you go too small line?
Just watching your videos for fun and you have great videos on bmw
Yes finally looking for video about this
So the vacuum boosters kind of act like a capacitor... store and release energy to maintain a smooth feed?
That's a great analogy! I'd agree with that statement.
"Accumulator" is the term for hydraulic and pneumatic systems I think, but I agree functionally they are very similar.
New M8 and upcoming M3/4 have brake by wire. Not certain vacuum pumps exist on those cars. Some '50s cars used vacuum powered windshield wipers also.
Of course "vacuum" is really a misnomer as it is really just very reduced air pressure compared to ambient.
Oh neat, is that only on the M8 or would the standard 8 series have brake by wire? My friend has a 2020 M850i that I'd like to study if it does.
So I'm in a bind at the moment. I broke the little plastic piece at the bottom of one of them off and need to order a new one. I'd like to have my car this weekend. Would I just leave one turbo as is, and the other turbo would run straight from the line that goes over the valve cover to it's corresponding boost solenoid? HALP Vehicular DIY
Thanks for this super informational video I never thought all that would do that and went to mechanic school for a year haha
Nice video! I do that before but i notice something weird to my brake so i put them back and yes everything back to normal
I've heard a couple of guys taking these off and it get rids of the wastegate rattle?? Is there any truth to this? I have an 07 n54 125k and after nice easy life owned by a woman in her 50's I now have it and went full bolt on mhd stage 2+ and on start up I have some rattle. ..but after 45 seconds it goes away. Should I even worry with it?
I wouldn't worry about that at all. I just put new Vargas turbos in my 2009 e92 and the car runs much healthier now.
@@TheFrenchPug how's the vargas turbos doing now?
@actionmade Still kicking ass!!!
I recently installed second canister on my 535d e60, i noticed better brakes and lower lag for small turbo.
Oem system feed both turbos with 1 canister.
Do you got some instructions on how you installed your second canister because I got the same car (pre lci)
Besir Uzbay just install on small turbo vacuum feed hose.
@@ejot2 where do you mount it to? Zip tie it to something? I have a 335d
im having a problem where my bmw is rattlign im guessing its my turbo, aswell and white smoke coming from the engine bay, was thinking it was back pressure along with my dad insisting it was also back pressure just asking because maybe were wrong i and was right about the vacuum lines having leaks, aong with maybe the pcv need to be replaced; looking into replacing the valve cover gasket cause i think it was installed wrong the last time it was, along with that i might throw in oil pan gasket awell.
Nicely explained, thanks!
One of mine snapped when removing the vac lines (I was replacing them all). I bought some T-connecters and run both lines to one canister. Gives a little more space to work, not a lot, but so far I haven't been able to detect a difference after a year.
good to know thanks for the feedback.
Which T connectors did you use?
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-autograde-3358/hardware---fasteners-16585/vacuum-caps---connectors-25941/vacuum-connectors---f-s--tees---y-s-25953/4df2a1881946/dorman-autograde-3-16-inch-tee-t-hard-vacuum-tee-connector/493050/4180618/2007/bmw/335i?q=T+connecter&pos=23
Something like that. I just bought a universal pack of them.
I've seen them relocated behind the passenger side cowl filter, seems like a discrete enough spot. I would like to see a video on the ista program you have. Maybe about it capabilities or its purpose? That would be a cool video to me. Love the content!
Thanks! To be honest in my opinion INPA is much more responsive and powerful on the E9X platform. There is the odd thing I'd do with ISTA like calibrate my active steering etc but I mostly use INPA. I'll see what I can do to explore using ISTA more.
@@VehicularDIY which ever is fine with me. I have an e82 though.... inpa still better for that platform?
Yes the same holds true for the E82. INPA/NCS Expert and Winkfp are pretty powerful on any E series car.
Ive been hunting down a checklight for the a month or so now i replaced alot of lines. the rocker cover gasket. Sparkplugs. Oil/filter.the oil filter cage/cup was missing replaced that also, i only get this check light durring cold start running from what ive noticed after doing the oil fillet cap with the new cage inside it it no longer comes on durring hard accelerator once warm, the cage. when i done the front wastegate vacuum lines which were slightly smaller. the lower hose end on the canister broke off i just connected it straight to the solenoid as i dont have a new one to replace it with but i still have the other/rear one hooked up could this be causing the issue by chance 😅😂
Can these tanks cause a 30ff code? One of mine is cracked at the nipple. Under full throttle the car throws a 30ff code.
You commented on another comment that i just saw about how one guy said he took the canisters off a couple of these cars and he said it spooled harder would be a very interesting data log video on what the canisters really do and another man felt the same way and tried tagging you but thats not quite how youtube works anymore would make a great video to do a data log or two and see if not i May definitely try and see how they spool
Yeah it would be interesting to see. Seems like they are commonly removed when installing passenger side inlets. We'd need to verify if removing them and leaving everything else the same would make a difference to how hard they spool. I'd imagine with the PID control of the boost solenoids they would compensate some.
Whenever I need to clean the Vanos check filters I remove these and work from above. Still working blind but does help not removing the wheel and wheel arch.
Yeah you should be able to reach down and feel you way around to get them out.
Are those actual K&N filters for your DCI and if so where did you get them?
I removed both of mine bc I was getting a boost leak code ... I replaced all the vacuum hoses and found the cracked canisters. I haven't had an issue in 6 months 🤷♂️
Boost seems to hit quicker and harder too (of course, my canisters were cracked, so a floored accelerator = limp mode)
I might put new ones in if I have any issues in the future.
Hi, thanks for your videos. What coils are you using in this video? thx
Click in his channel. You can find the video where he installs them.
So the reason for constant source of vacuum isnt because engine doesn’t create vacuum. The waste gates are the opposite (or backwards) of previous waste Gates. Bmw likes sprung open and actuated closed. Previous turbos were sprung closed and would open when exhaust pressure could over come the spring, by using the manifold source boost on top of the gate it would build more boost. Due to “sprung” open gates when the engine is under boost it would be hard to manage turbine speeds you could control them with 2 kinds of atmospheres.
To define sprung open. If the turbo is sitting on a table in front of you you’ll see the waste gates are open on Bmw design. It will allow exhaust to push passed the turbine building no boost. Sprung closed gates if you look at the flap it completely closes off the exhaust and it could build boost without control until pressure pushes open the gate.
Primarily Bmw says sprung open design is much safer because it can be managed they’ll cut vacuum to the gates and no boost will build.
Yeah the engine would make it's own vacuum at idle and light loads etc. I agree it is fair to say that the wastegates cannot be controlled via a manual boost controller and rely on PID solenoids to regulate the actuation of the wastegate which allows for a normally open failsafe scenario. That is kind of why I wanted to throw a statement in the video that what I'm saying is about 90% correct and is put in layman's terms. The point of the video was to ask the question if would removing the vacuum chambers cause the boost solenoids to not operate effectively. Ultimately it's the design of the wastegate that dictates how critical a strong vacuum source is like you said. I feel if I covered the topic in such detail it would drag out to 20 minutes and might confuse some people? Thanks for the comment, it'll help with more context for the viewers that appreciate a thorough explanation.
Right. And the vacuum reservoirs serve as a buffer between the brake master and the WG to help isolate the impact on each other. Something else to consider is the DSC will actively brake one or more wheels during dynamic events, as well as for the E-diff, which could starve the WG under those conditions like Aveman says. This would result in intermittent boost loss when driving at the limit.
good info but where is the vacuum pump located and does it give trouble and is it servicable? thanks
I just got mine deleted i already have a 30ff code but I feel the difference im going to get some fresh boost solenoid and get a fresh Intercooler and see if that’s my solution
Would a problem with the vacuum system (somewhere in the line) cause wastegate rattle on deceleration?
Hi, my vacuum canisters seems to make noise when I turn off my car after driving. And when I remove the vacuum hose from the canisters the noise stops. Do you thing it’s something to be worried about?
Hello. Thanks for all your videos. Do you know if you can flush a 2008 n54 heater core from the engine bay?
Did you ever have problems with your timing chain, considering your high mileage?
Mine has 145k mls and now the Wastegates are rattping (even after your qwick fix). Now wondering if I should also change the rod bearings and Timing chain when being in there.
Thanks for your answer.
Honestly if you're that high mileage and you're going to be removing the subframe to fix your turbos, you might as well pull the oil pan (do a new gasket, keep it leak-free) and you can remove a few things and pull a rod cap off to take a look at the bearings. I just did that on my wife's jeep I'm working on. I was only planning on doing the oil pan gasket but I pulled a rod cap off just to see and not only were they worn down far enough to fail sooner rather than later, the tangs had worn to the point where it could spin a bearing at any time. Rather be safe than sorry. I'm now in the middle of a full engine rebuild on that one
The next video is on this topic. Turns out the guides for the chain that drive the vacuum pump/oil pump can fail. Helix 4X overdrive kit + high mileage + manual are not a good combination I've come to find lol. A series is about to start where I tackle all that and do the oil pan gasket/rod bearings.
@@VehicularDIY thanks looking forward to those.
Off topic question. My 07 335i cranks but doesn't start. I had not driven it or turn it on in about a week. Before then it was fine. I noticed my battery died, I replaced it, I removed the starter had it checked it's fine. I even replaced the crankshaft sensor. Still doesn't turn over. The fuel pump fuse in the glove compartment is OK. I even disconnected the IBS still won't turn on. I'm going 😵nuts. Do u have any suggestions? TIA 🙏
Do you have mhd? Would be good to check the low pressure fuel sensor pressure.
@@VehicularDIY I wanted to give an update. Just in case someone else has the same issue. It turned out to be my fuel pump relay. Thanks
I have a 135i and mine are located in the same location just down lower behind the bumper.
You know BMW did something similar on the E34 M5 with their auto leveling system. Unfortunately, when they went bad, with the low volume of production numbers, these "Bombs" were expensive to replace. Old technology used on modern cars. LOL
Well that was interesting, thanks
will only having one working effect the brakes?
Great video! Can you do a video on replacing all of the vacuum lines? ( that’s my next project )
my 2007 335i n54 is in limp mode. got Dbc,Dsc, engine, transmission malfunction, less power to the engine and loud noise when i press the gas. I have changed the battery and crankshaft sensor but still the same. Any new suggestions?
Thanks for the informational video good shit!
Hey I had a question about the PVC valve Is it possible to completely remove the the PVC system to not have to walnut blast ever? I’ve heard that this works from Vader Solutions and is it safe for the engine?
People won’t believe this, majority of your 30FF code issue is due to shot Diverter valves rather than vacuum system. Its like 3/10 chances for vacuum leak and 8/10 chances its DVs the moment you run high boost, DVs get shot very quick. I replaced mine with turbosmart and I hit my 21psi boost on viv v4 turbos super hard just on 65% paddle.
Must have a n55, because if you have a blow off valve this is not an accurate statement (unless you didn’t install it correctly) I’ve had the 30ff code a couple times and every time it was because of one of these dumb canisters and it’s lines lol but I guess that’s just my experience
@@uzik00sh65 so you recommend to delete the cans altogether? I'm replacing my boost solenoids soon as they arrive. I've been contemplating whether to delete them or not...im only on a stage 1+ map 535xi but eventually I'll want more power 😂
I have an off topic question for you; you have become my most trusted source for info on these cars so I’d like to hear your thoughts. My car recently started lightly smoking on cold starts, and sounds slightly metallic as it cranks. It gave a half engine light with code 2a7c (MHD description: Variable camshaft timing control, intake, cold start), which, to my understanding is VANOS related. I went ahead and just replaced both solenoids to see if that would fix the issue- to no avail. The cranks seem long (4-6 seconds) and when it starts up it smells heavily of fuel. My question is do you think possibly has to do with a leaky injector? It almost sounds like it is washing the cylinder and I’m thinking maybe the oil is contaminated with fuel and causing the VANOS code? Any thoughts or ideas of easy troubleshooting I can try would be appreciated. Also, my spark plugs do smell like fuel- which is what lead me to the idea that maybe it has to do with a leaking injector but I just don’t know if that could indeed cause the VANOS code.
Thanks, that does sound like leaking injectors. Do you happen to know what index you're running now?
Vehicular DIY Thanks for the quick reply. They are index 5 injectors.
Has anyone had any issues with the vacuum canisters off at a road course racing? You think the wgdc would be really high at initial throttle after braking (any turbo lag increase)?
Would love to know the answer to this as well
your the best bro
So if I’m racing and I brake boost? What would happen?
Hey great video would u be able to give me some tips on swapping my 2008 e90 328i motor with a e90 2009 335xi engine could u like give me some tips on wat I would need and how to plug the xi def oil openings
Thanks, do you have a complete donar car?
Vehicular DIY no I have a complete engine about to order intercooler wideband piping charge pipe and bov also injectors vacuum hoses
Would this be easy to check for air leaks or do you need to smoke Test ? If i add a vacuum Gage would that tell me , a simple test as there is so many feet of Line ! LOL
Your wastegates stay open or never fully shut & the car won't hold boost! You can't make any power without those because of the way that whole system is designed! It'd be like trying to make boost with your bov partially open. You need the extra vacuum held in those to hold enough pressure to keep the WG's closed....👍
The answer is yes.
I bought a 2008 bme 335i fbo with pure stage 2 turbos my car goes on limp mode after wot and I noticed it doesn't have the boost canisters.. should I buy some and re install them the car also has relocated inlets
That's not your issue, having no canisters won't cause that. I'd imagine this comment being a year ago you would of found the issue.
will having more than 2 canister makes it better specially when doing canyon run?
I wouldn't think so as the two canisters should have no problem keeping up.
The only time 2 canisters will run out of vacuum is on an EXTENDED, WOT run. Like VMAX on the autobahn
Just an fyi, the n62 and valvetronic engine do not have intake vacuum, only 50mbar for fuel tank venting
What do you think of a intercooler fan/water sprayer
I was thinking of doing a water sprayer project. It could help bring the IATs down a little.
what did u mean when you said : this is not an old carbureted car where putting a turbocharger can mess things up...u talking about not having enough boost in the old car since it will be under constant boost
Do you know if have some kid performance upgrade for them?
They make aluminum canister upgrades but wouldn't really net a performance increase.
@@VehicularDIY but which one is better? The plastic oem or the aluminium?
My bmw doesn't have those. The last owner deleted them one intake is there now
Off subject: What is the blue sticker on the snorkel?
Idk
I can confirm if you live at a higher elevation this will not work!!! I’m in Colorado and every time one of these lines gets a little lose I get a HUGE boost leak, I go from 19psi to like 7psi without them in sooo🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️wouldn’t recommend in higher elevations!
N55 do not have these issues
My 135i doesn't have those? 🤔🤔
It does.
It should 😂
Mines didnt ;-; and still doesn't idk what the previous owner did
I broke one of mine can i just run one ??
I've seen reports of people using just one.
@@VehicularDIY cheers
I've been running with one for a year now. I got some T connectors to bring the vac lines in and out of the canister. Has worked great for a year now with no noticeable side effects
@@warboomer6454 yeah thats what i did... cheers
I replaced mine with STETT canisters look much cleaner
Deleted both mine been running the car for almost 1 year no issues
Did you find that the boost seems to hit harder as others have said?
Vehicular DIY I did!
🔥🔥🔥👍🏾
Love your content!! have a great ideal for a collab, maybe let's work or talk together?
I think I get it. Don't be an idiot and remove the vacuum canisters. :-)
Hey Vehicular, I used to appreciate your videos a lot, but I reckon you 're getting a little bit bored given this kind of videos?
Thanks, I'm pumping out topical videos while I wait for parts. I want to start getting into modifying the M340i. I don't mind the theory stuff but I do enjoy the mechanical side the most then the electronics and coding etc. I'll be doing the rod bearings and oil pan gasket soon so we'll get more into mechanical and I have a downpipe on the way for the M340i.
Funny how this might be a bit boring to you but the general consensus is overwhelmingly positive . I would say this was a great topic . Discovering more things about this platform is always fun . I don't see the harm in it.
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