Oh man, this is an extremely informative video. Thank you! I'm currently trying to figure out if my vacuum pump failed or if it's something else. My brakes feel like they're completely locked up.... and my HPFP isn't producing any fuel pressure, since it's driven by the brake vacuum pump. Has anyone else had this issue?
I will try and tackle this job soon with the engine installed and would greatly appreciate any tips/links/resources. I have not found much online regarding accomplishing this, let alone anything related to the issues I am having. Long story short, I thought oil was leaking from the VC, and when I went to replace the gasket, I found the boost solenoid and vacuum lines covered in oil. I did a little research, and someone noted that replacing the auxiliary check valve on the vacuum pump solved their issues after replacing a multitude of other things. The car has almost 190k on the dash, so I think it's about time the pump be replaced anyway, and I hope it is the Hail Mary I need. Any help is of utmost appreciated; from my research, I've gathered all I need to do is remove the intake, intake manifold, fan/shroud, tensioner, and HPFP. then carry on with the procedure in the video correct? I know some pull the alternator for more room, and understand I will not be able to see much without pulling the front end. My questions are (if I am not missing anything thus far) 1. Is draining fluids and removal of the alternator required? 2. There is a rod that comes with the BMW tool kit that is inserted through the sprocket to keep tension; I'd like to think the way you did it is all that is needed unless both are required. 3. do you ha[pen to have all the torque values or know where to find them? 4. I have the N55b30. Are there any differences in the procedure? My guess is they're exactly the same. Just trying to cover all the bases. Thank you in advance!
The alternator shouldn’t have to be removed. The pin to hold the pulley is there to maintain tension so it may be a good idea to have it on hand. The motor we disassembled is being rebuilt so we weren’t too concerned with chain tension. I don’t have any torque values on hand but I should be able to grab them for you. What exactly are you looking for? -Mike
Install of the sprocket is the reverse of taking it out? No need to loosen any timing chain tensioners or worry about the sprocket skipping teeth on the gears?
If the sprocket is left in place it shouldn’t move at all. Just line the pump up and verify. There’s enough room to see what’s going on with the chain while you’re there. Hope this helps! -Mike
Oh man, this is an extremely informative video. Thank you!
I'm currently trying to figure out if my vacuum pump failed or if it's something else.
My brakes feel like they're completely locked up.... and my HPFP isn't producing any fuel pressure, since it's driven by the brake vacuum pump.
Has anyone else had this issue?
@@vegaschefandrew Glad we were able to help! That totally sounds like a failed vacuum pump!
This vacuum pump seal cap is something you should change during an oil change? Are these seals a common leak area?
I will try and tackle this job soon with the engine installed and would greatly appreciate any tips/links/resources. I have not found much online regarding accomplishing this, let alone anything related to the issues I am having. Long story short, I thought oil was leaking from the VC, and when I went to replace the gasket, I found the boost solenoid and vacuum lines covered in oil. I did a little research, and someone noted that replacing the auxiliary check valve on the vacuum pump solved their issues after replacing a multitude of other things. The car has almost 190k on the dash, so I think it's about time the pump be replaced anyway, and I hope it is the Hail Mary I need. Any help is of utmost appreciated; from my research, I've gathered all I need to do is remove the intake, intake manifold, fan/shroud, tensioner, and HPFP. then carry on with the procedure in the video correct? I know some pull the alternator for more room, and understand I will not be able to see much without pulling the front end. My questions are (if I am not missing anything thus far) 1. Is draining fluids and removal of the alternator required? 2. There is a rod that comes with the BMW tool kit that is inserted through the sprocket to keep tension; I'd like to think the way you did it is all that is needed unless both are required. 3. do you ha[pen to have all the torque values or know where to find them? 4. I have the N55b30. Are there any differences in the procedure? My guess is they're exactly the same. Just trying to cover all the bases. Thank you in advance!
The alternator shouldn’t have to be removed. The pin to hold the pulley is there to maintain tension so it may be a good idea to have it on hand. The motor we disassembled is being rebuilt so we weren’t too concerned with chain tension. I don’t have any torque values on hand but I should be able to grab them for you. What exactly are you looking for? -Mike
Install of the sprocket is the reverse of taking it out? No need to loosen any timing chain tensioners or worry about the sprocket skipping teeth on the gears?
If the sprocket is left in place it shouldn’t move at all. Just line the pump up and verify. There’s enough room to see what’s going on with the chain while you’re there. Hope this helps! -Mike
Do you have dimensions for the alignment tool?