This is a great question and many struggle with this. With the cap on the distributor, I mark the distributor base where the cylinder 1 lug is. Look closely and you will see a yellow mark in the video. I then line up the base so the base and vacuum are in the proper factory location. Next I lower the distributor onto the cam gear until I find a tooth that places the rotor just before the mark I made (keep in mind the rotor turns in reverse). The proper distributor base location is shown on most firing order pictures from the factory manuals.
I set my timing exactly the way you did here. My #1 is actually more at 5:00 looking down at the ending, though. I do have it lined up with the #1 plug wire, though. I started it and it runs, but when I checked timing, it turns out the mark is way on the other side. Like around 10:00 when looking from the front of the engine. Not sure what I did wrong.
Thank you for the question! There are a lot of variables in play when considering timing. I always start by verifying the timing mark is at 0 when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). The second thing to consider is that the distributor is installed correctly, factory installation has the #1 lug at the rearmost drivers side lug. Most importantly is how the rotor is facing in relation to the distributor housing, this may require removing the distributor housing and moving a tooth at a time until the proper relationship is achieved. The rotor should be situated just before #1 (Olds is counter clock rotation). That should get you really close, the engine should be starting and running for certain. It sounds like something is not quite right in your situation, did you have any work done recently? I would start with the basics, remove the valve cover and check that your timing mark is at 0 with the #1 piston at TDC and both valves are closed. Once verified, while the timing mark is at 0, remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing just before cap lug #1. You should find something is off when you perform these checks. Good luck, and let me know what you find.
Sounds like you definitely missed something, and this does apply to ecm cars. First make certain you have an Oldsmobile engine as Chevy engines are different. Your timing mark should line up when you are are TDC and specifically when your #1 intake and exhaust valves are closed. With an Olds engine, your distributor is not installed in factory position if your rotor is not near the 1:00 clock position when viewed from the front of the engine at TDC. Watch the video closely a few times and follow it closely.
Am I missing something or is your rotor not facing cylinder one? I’m Just curious I’m having trouble working on my 455 and getting it to start without back firing. I made sure it was on tdc pulled valve covers and felt for the air to come out off the spark plug hole
In the video the rotor is facing the factory correct position for cylinder 1. Look at the distributor cap in the video. When I install it, you will see a small yellow mark on the cap between the black and gray paint on cylinder 1. That is the factory cap pin for cylinder 1. I set the rotor a bit before that pin as you want it advanced a little. Watch your rockers when you line up the timing mark, you are on TDC if both rockers are at rest. If your engine is backfiring then its likely your timing is a bit retarded or there is an air leak (check your vacuum ports). If it turns unevenly when the starter is engaged you are likely too advanced, retard the timing a bit. Then when you get the engine to idle simply put a timing light on it and set the timing based on your specific engine (455 usually likes 12-13 degrees @ 1000 RPM).
Here are some facts on Oldsmobile engine colors: GOLD: 330 & 350 1964-1975, RED: 425 & 455 (non Toro) 1964-1969, BRONZE: 400 1965-1969, SLATE BLUE: 425 & 455 Toro 1966-1969, OLDS BLUE METALLIC: 455 and Hurst-Olds 1970-1972, CORPORATE BLUE: All other engines 1973-up, DIESEL BLUE: Diesel 350 1978-1985. Note this 455 Toronado engine is NOT painted the original color, this color is VHT Metallic Gold.
Lots of info, and nice build. But please take the phrase “Golden Rocket” off the valve cover. The color of the motors in the 70’s had ZERO to do with the performance of it. In 1968 Oldsmobile painted their motors gold, and switched to blue in 71/72. The blue motors had hardened valve seats to run on unleaded gas, the gold motors had soft valve seats noting it was a lead gasoline motor. It’s plain ghetto to call it a “gold rocket” or a “blue rocket”
Golden Rocket is a reference to the concept car. I made the decal in the same font and structure as the 50's engines. This is a custom engine in a sleeper, the color and decals are not meant to signify it's year or performance. Those are just a set of custom valve covers I made and I chose that color because I hadn't tried out VHT metallic gold yet. This engine was originally metallic blue, which is correct for a 1970 Toronado engine.
You need a time out. The olds 350 engine was gold from 68 to 74 and the blue engine Martin Senour #7959 metallic Blue was the 455 from 1970 to 1976. The color definitely told what the performance was and is.. The engine color had ZERO to do with emissions or gasoline....
👍🏾 With the lack of information on RUclips when it comes to oldsmobile engine these videos will help out a ton thks
I'm glad you found them helpful!
Reverse on the oil pump. Good to know! Going to revive a 455 sitting for 18 years in my Revcon. Plan to drive it 1500 miles.
Excellent, I hope the trip goes well.
When you installed the distributor (2:09), what was you point of reference on the distributor to align with cylinder #1?
This is a great question and many struggle with this. With the cap on the distributor, I mark the distributor base where the cylinder 1 lug is. Look closely and you will see a yellow mark in the video. I then line up the base so the base and vacuum are in the proper factory location. Next I lower the distributor onto the cam gear until I find a tooth that places the rotor just before the mark I made (keep in mind the rotor turns in reverse). The proper distributor base location is shown on most firing order pictures from the factory manuals.
I set my timing exactly the way you did here. My #1 is actually more at 5:00 looking down at the ending, though. I do have it lined up with the #1 plug wire, though. I started it and it runs, but when I checked timing, it turns out the mark is way on the other side. Like around 10:00 when looking from the front of the engine. Not sure what I did wrong.
Thank you for the question! There are a lot of variables in play when considering timing. I always start by verifying the timing mark is at 0 when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). The second thing to consider is that the distributor is installed correctly, factory installation has the #1 lug at the rearmost drivers side lug. Most importantly is how the rotor is facing in relation to the distributor housing, this may require removing the distributor housing and moving a tooth at a time until the proper relationship is achieved. The rotor should be situated just before #1 (Olds is counter clock rotation). That should get you really close, the engine should be starting and running for certain. It sounds like something is not quite right in your situation, did you have any work done recently? I would start with the basics, remove the valve cover and check that your timing mark is at 0 with the #1 piston at TDC and both valves are closed. Once verified, while the timing mark is at 0, remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing just before cap lug #1. You should find something is off when you perform these checks. Good luck, and let me know what you find.
The Trigger is pointing away from #1. According to my olds book you’re out 180 on the rotor. Do you have it running yet?
@@junkdump2720does this apply to the 1984 cutlass supreme computer control ECM??
Sounds like you definitely missed something, and this does apply to ecm cars. First make certain you have an Oldsmobile engine as Chevy engines are different. Your timing mark should line up when you are are TDC and specifically when your #1 intake and exhaust valves are closed. With an Olds engine, your distributor is not installed in factory position if your rotor is not near the 1:00 clock position when viewed from the front of the engine at TDC. Watch the video closely a few times and follow it closely.
@@junkdump2720 okay. Would TDC be 20 degree mark or the 0 on the crankshaft?
Am I missing something or is your rotor not facing cylinder one? I’m
Just curious I’m having trouble working on my 455 and getting it to start without back firing. I made sure it was on tdc pulled valve covers and felt for the air to come out off the spark plug hole
In the video the rotor is facing the factory correct position for cylinder 1. Look at the distributor cap in the video. When I install it, you will see a small yellow mark on the cap between the black and gray paint on cylinder 1. That is the factory cap pin for cylinder 1. I set the rotor a bit before that pin as you want it advanced a little. Watch your rockers when you line up the timing mark, you are on TDC if both rockers are at rest. If your engine is backfiring then its likely your timing is a bit retarded or there is an air leak (check your vacuum ports). If it turns unevenly when the starter is engaged you are likely too advanced, retard the timing a bit. Then when you get the engine to idle simply put a timing light on it and set the timing based on your specific engine (455 usually likes 12-13 degrees @ 1000 RPM).
Here are some facts on Oldsmobile engine colors: GOLD: 330 & 350 1964-1975, RED: 425 & 455 (non Toro) 1964-1969, BRONZE: 400 1965-1969, SLATE BLUE: 425 & 455 Toro 1966-1969, OLDS BLUE METALLIC: 455 and Hurst-Olds 1970-1972, CORPORATE BLUE: All other engines 1973-up, DIESEL BLUE: Diesel 350 1978-1985. Note this 455 Toronado engine is NOT painted the original color, this color is VHT Metallic Gold.
Lots of info, and nice build. But please take the phrase “Golden Rocket” off the valve cover. The color of the motors in the 70’s had ZERO to do with the performance of it. In 1968 Oldsmobile painted their motors gold, and switched to blue in 71/72. The blue motors had hardened valve seats to run on unleaded gas, the gold motors had soft valve seats noting it was a lead gasoline motor.
It’s plain ghetto to call it a “gold rocket” or a “blue rocket”
Golden Rocket is a reference to the concept car. I made the decal in the same font and structure as the 50's engines. This is a custom engine in a sleeper, the color and decals are not meant to signify it's year or performance. Those are just a set of custom valve covers I made and I chose that color because I hadn't tried out VHT metallic gold yet. This engine was originally metallic blue, which is correct for a 1970 Toronado engine.
it's his engine.he can do what he wants with it.
You need a time out. The olds 350 engine was gold from 68 to 74 and the blue engine Martin Senour #7959 metallic Blue was the 455 from 1970 to 1976. The color definitely told what the performance was and is.. The engine color had ZERO to do with emissions or gasoline....