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@@amrikjaswal76 I have a non ac setup, the gasket is a fel pro 35059. They are out of stock now but you can find them on ebay.

They are great shallow dished pistons.

I believe those were SRP/JP 331834

@@joehancock2264 I was mistaken, the SRPs are from my latest 455. I think the dished set was a Speed Pro forged set, I don't recall the part number.

Mine is a Lisle kit from the 90's. You can find nice old Napa, Lisle or other quality used kits on ebay.

I get my brushes off ebay, grab delco if possible. There are other offerings online and I have found Napa parts stores that can get them.

The water pump to timing cover bolts are 5/16 bolts with a 1/2" head and are tightened to 13 ft lbs. Never use them for any other purpose. The 3/8" bolts with 9/16" heads thread into the block and are torqued to 35 ft lbs. The proper way to use these for accessories is using a bolt with a threaded post, I believe a 3/8x16 with a length of 7/8" with a 3/8x16 7/8" length threaded top post is what you are looking for, it should look like the factory bolt/stud used on 70's cars with alternators on the passenger side. You would torque the bolt side to 35 ft lb then mount the bracket to the stud and torque a bolt in place.

@ thank you. The exact information I was looking for

@@vintagekart2 excellent, happy to help.

The 425 is part of the older Olds engine family that lists 80 ft lbs.

You're correct, I didn't get the mix right on this video. Hopefully I have done better with the audio levels on my newer videos.

Do you suggest no music or better music? If you believe I need better music, post a link to specific better free songs for me to consider.

@@amrikjaswal76 Great question! Olds head castings have recesses in the jackets around the intake bolt areas keeping the bolt holes surrounded by metal. None of the bolts enter the cooling jackets. Thank you for the comment.

@@danharvey464 email me at junkdump455@gmail.com and I can help you figure this out. Your purple solenoid wire should go from your starter solenoid, to your dash connector, from the connector then to your neutral start / backup switch. That switch has another purple wire that goes to the ignition switch sol terminal. It is purple the whole way.

Let me start with this quote taken from the Oldsmobile manuals, "The full flow oil filter filters 100% of the oil delivered by the pump." Oldsmobile engines are designed to filter 100% of the oil 100% of the time. I am glad you mentioned the temperature so I can dispel this common misconception. The oil filter bypass is not designed for cold weather. Aside from internal tolerances, the temperature your vehicle is driven in dictates which viscosity oil the engine should have in it. All literature for Oldsmobile engines have a chart that shows which viscosity the engineers recommend. At -25 F, the suggested viscosity is 5W20 or 5W, this is thin oil for extreme low temperatures and not recommend for highway use. Here is a direct quote from the manuals, "SAE 5W and 5W20 oils are not recommended for sustained high speed driving." Thank you for the comment.

@@christopherbotzon4135 Edelbrock has a kit, search Edelbrock 2730 bolt kit, and Mondello Performance has a set IB-400 that I have used recently.

I recommend people never use Fram or Purolator filters, I exclusively use Wix. My most recent build never drops below 40psi (some engines builds drop to 20 psi at idle and that's okay) and it gains to around 60 psi when I am into the throttle. Your 36-52 psi sounds excellent.

@@junkdump2720 Thanks.. on first start with straight 30 I had 60 lbs.. but after some run time I haven't seen 60.. I used straight 30 for break in the first 8 hours of driving and changed for 10 40 lucas with the zinc.. I'm so not used to seeing this high of oil pressure at idle.. generally my older stock engine would be around 8 lbs hot at idle.. in fact if I ran synthetic i'd be so low it wouldn't' register.. I also find that dropping to 2nd gear to climb a hill.. i'm still topping out at 52 lbs.. I think that's probably where the oil pressure spring releases.. I was on the highway and didn't save the old fram filter.. I wonder if it was just full of debris.. I didn't get alarmed only because if I was wiping out the cam i would have probably heard the chatter from the valve train.. and it was silent.. The oil pressure was too solid for it to be mains or rod bearings.. So the debris.. has to be cylinder wall break in is my thoughts.. Which is ok.. In the 80s I had an oberg 1 micron filter on my race car.. a new engine would bypass that filter very quickly as it would just fill with garbage.. it's amazing just how much material is going through a new motor..

@@TrentGustus It's so true, stunning amount of garbage through a new engine!

@@junkdump2720 I do think that the fram oil filter was bypassing.. and the bypass was very irratic.. I had as low as 16lbs oil pressure.. then stopped.. added a liter of fresh oil, started it up and had 40lbs immediately.. then while running it slowly went down again to like 22lbs.. after changing the filter.. everything went back to normal.. it was very confusing. I think these filter bypasses aren't very consistent.. but it still baffles me how the filter could do that.. in my view.. the oil pump bypass would regulate the pressure and starve the engine if the filter was blocked.. and if the filter was open how would the pressure go down? wouldn't the oil pump spring just keep the pressure up? I just can't figure out why it would be so erratic. At first I suspected the guage.. and bought a mechanical gauge to confirm what was happening.. and my sender was working fine.. I still cant compute..

@@TrentGustus The fram filter bypass valves are carboard, that could account for the erratic behavior if the filter bypass was also failing or coming apart and intermittently operating.

Thanks for sharing that story of your bike! I also love my Hawk.

That is correct, there is a channel, or groove, for the oil to travel the diameter of the lifter.

This is indeed what they call a "Rocket 350". The oil fill tube, the front timing cover top, block, and the heads will have codes on them to help decipher the year and possibly what it came out of.

@@TrentGustus I encounter this all the time, the timing cover is stripped from over torquing. Luckily the timing covers are available and cheap. I have never tacked a bolt on the back and I wouldn't recommend it even if there's clearance.

@junkdump2720 I don't have the time, so that's where I'm at, it looks like the stock bolts protrude enough to tack a low profile nut

@junkdump2720 I highly doubt, I'd find a new one in calgary

@@TrentGustus Here is the cover I typically use: www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/pontiac/firebird/parts/22525282.html?srsltid=AfmBOooEIRuTZO_uBTcDNwA7Lm_iNlrad_JYRK_UaGk06PkPQ3jSZdKwznA There are also cheaper options on Amazon.

@junkdump2720 I called around, unobtainium in canada, it was a special order item.. I'm getting this back in the vehicle within the week... I welded a low profile nut in, there's lots of clearance

@@marksman444 Glad it helped you out! Good point though, I wonder which orientation that pump was originally designed for. I will have to look up the patent for curiosity.

You can just plug the ports. Removing the tubes isn't necessary but it does drastically increase the exhaust port flow characteristics with regards to velocity and flow. Remember porting and changing head flow characteristics is a modification that will yield the most noticeable benefits after removing intake and exhaust restrictions. These heads are great 307 heads once you port, remove the egr bumps, and remove air tubes and bumps. Just keep in mind that your engine is a system, all parts of the system contribute to the whole. Race heads don't make a race engine without the cam, intake, carb, exhaust and so on.

@@junkdump2720 appreciate the feedback. I’m just more so looking to clean up the engine bay a bit so it’s easier to work on. Cheers

@@chevpasmore5809 It was a good question! Glad to help.

@@junkdump2720 one more question, the tubes that are in place for the air system. Can those be removed without taking the heads off the block? I’ve read mixed reviews that they can taken out and are held in by carbon, it just takes some work. However being up in Canada, 307s are limited. I could try to find non CCC heads up here that have it already blocked as my car is from the states so I have all the emissions stuff.

@@chevpasmore5809 You absolutely can take the tubes out without removing the heads, but sometimes they are pretty stuck. PbBlaster and patience will be your most valuable tools.

That's not the wire. I remove the pink wire with a black stripe and replace it with a 12g pink wire that I connect to the HEI bat terminal. The pink and black wire was orginally connected to the coil and the engine & dash connector, this wire is a resistance wire and should not be used. It should be replaced with a 12g pink wire. On the other side of the system, if you look at your ignition switch you should see a pink wire, this is the wire that leads to the engine & dash connector. The new pink wire replaces the pink & black striped wire that leads from the engine & dash connector. It all sounds confusing, I hope you can follow what I said. If you have more questions or need further explanations please reply. Thank you for the great question!

I am not on any groups, but I try to respond to comments from my videos. You have a great car with an engine that I have alwanted to get my hands on!

I have been there a few times, both on the US and Canadian side. I loved taking the elevator up the to top of the skylon observation tower.

If you are worried about this happening I suggest using deflectors or restricted pushrods. Oil deflectors will not adversely effect your engine if properly installed. A pneumatic drill will run the oil pump at idle speeds so you can verify proper operation with one of the valve covers removed.

@junkdump2720 I just haven't seen any oil deflectors for an olds 455, comp cams doesn't have any that I've seen, what I have seen is temporary ones or weld on one's, .. it seems restricted pushrods are as expensive as the complete set of rockers, pushrods, guides and studs. And I'm positive I won't find any in canada... I think I'll take the high pressure spring out of the high volume pump and it won't be as aggressive... I also wonder if the problem will even exist at low rpm, I never get this thing over 3500 rpm anyway

@@TrentGustus You are correct, finding deflectors for an Olds engine is near impossible. You can get restricted pushrods for $250 USD through Mondello, measure your originals and they should be something close to the PR-9.700x5/16, they are Hardened with a 0.040 restricted end that should be on the Rocker Side. Removing the high pressure spring is a great idea for your engine and you hopefully won't have problems.

@junkdump2720 use the original pushrods with the comp cams rockers? Of course comp specifically says to use their pushrods as well , ... maybe that's the best idea, I'll look at my old pushrods.

@@TrentGustus You will need hardened pushrods if you have heavier valve springs than stock. Lots of Olds guys run high volume oil pumps without deflectors, I don't think I have ever seen Olds specific deflectors.

That is a good observation, your engine is likely not out of a Toronado. Those pieces came factory on the Toronado deep oil pans. I don't recall other models having them.

@@junkdump2720 I have a gmc motorhome with the toronado, I'm building a second motor. It's a pain in the butt , to do it, but are these pieces crucial to strip from the original engine?

@@TrentGustus They aren't crucial for engine functionality. They are highly sought after for the benefits they provide. In short they keep the oil where you want it in the pan, reduce oil sloshing, and they keep oil from building up on the counterweights and cylinder walls. They are designed to work with the crank scrapers on the sides of the Toronado oil pan. Please don't throw them out, I highly recommend using them or you could sell them on ebay!

@junkdump2720 I'm a little pissed because I bought an extra pan long distance and he didn't include those crucial parts for the pan when he sent it then wanted more money when I asked for them.. and of course they only fit the toronado.. I think you are right, the toronado was considered a sports car, so they expected a little more rpm, my rv won't see over 3500 rpm.. it's likely windage isn't an issue..

@@TrentGustus I understand why you would be upset, those are part of the same system. I suggest checking prices on ebay for those parts to see if you can locate them for a cheaper price. As an engine builder I would recommend trying to find them.

Thanks!

In this case the belt did not effect the precision because of how the Sioux machine is designed. These valves were measured and are true with runout that is better than factory. The grinder shaft is designed with tight tolerances that utilize pressed interference bearings, the noise you hear is from the tensioner, not the shaft. If the precision were compromised it would show in the measurements. You will be happy to know there is a new belt on the machine and it is now quiet.

This is a great question and many struggle with this. With the cap on the distributor, I mark the distributor base where the cylinder 1 lug is. Look closely and you will see a yellow mark in the video. I then line up the base so the base and vacuum are in the proper factory location. Next I lower the distributor onto the cam gear until I find a tooth that places the rotor just before the mark I made (keep in mind the rotor turns in reverse). The proper distributor base location is shown on most firing order pictures from the factory manuals.

Using restrictors properly is very good for an Oldsmobile engine, the video has good information on how, why, and when to use them. Opening up the drain back passages is very helpful. I don't recommend ever using more than one filter in an Olds engine. Roller lifters and rockers on Olds engines require a lot of adjustments to the valve train, only very knowledgeable engine builders should be trusted to make certain your top end geometry and tolerances are perfect. Olds engines are very different than other GM offerings like Chevy.

The pickup screens on Olds engines do not restrict oil flow in a meaningful amount, they only screen out large debris, it is highly recommended that screens are left in place.

Agreed, these were tough engines in stock form.

Too much oil to the wrong places is the issue.

The restrictors do not restrict oil to the bearings, this is a misconception. The video explains how the mentioned restrictors work to help keep more oil to the bearings.

Restrictors benefit Olds engines regardless of lifter type.

I also do this on every block and heads that I work. Thank you for commenting.

Thank you for the comment! I agree that the high volume high pressure pumps are a little overkill, thanks for the tip.

A bad pump seems the most likely suspect. I would also suggest checking any filters before the pump, the cam eccentric, and fuel line connections. I fully understand how frustrating it is to have new parts fail.

@junkdump2720 thanks , ya I put new filters in first .

It is possible to install this improperly. The pump arm must rest on top of the cam eccentric, and the cam eccentric must be installed and keyed properly on the end of the camshaft. Before you fully tighten the pump in place you can hand rotate the engine to see the pump arm being driven.

Glad you like them.

Thank you for watching and commenting.

do you have a favorite cam grind for 307s, to partner with the Intake and Exhaust? Hope you see this!

@@fatxcap The most cost efficient way to get more power is a 350 Olds engine swap, but if you are determined to build a 307 then before cam swaps I highly recommend an Edelbrock 2711 intake manifold to replace the heavy egr intake. Get a set of 1972 or earlier 350 cylinder heads If you can find a pair in a junkyard or swap meet. If not than perform the mods in this video to your 307 heads. An Engle JM-18-20 or equivalent camshaft and new lifters is nice if you are planning on a cam swap. Those three upgrades will make the biggest difference on that engine. I also suggest a rebuilt quadrajet without the electronics, install an older alternator bracket that moves the alternator to the passenger side (opposite the power steering pulley), an HEI distributor if it doesn't have one, an MSD 6A box, and full 2-3/4 dual exhaust with mufflers and no catalytic converters, if legal in your state. Those upgrades will really wake up a 307 and create an enjoyable amount of power from a small displacement engine without any machine work.

Yeah, I consistently get good results with duplicolor engine paint and it protects well for years.

@@junkdump2720 I have a 1986 buick regal with the olds 307 in it. I'm assuming I have the 7A heads. Would porting help these lame heads? Suggestions?

@@dbeaumontresident847 You are correct that you should have the 7a heads, not the best castings for a 307. The 307 is expensive to gain performance on and it will be cheaper to locate and install a good Oldsmobile 350. The 350 in stock form will give you a huge bump in performance (especially if you can locate a 1972 or earlier 350) and is a very easy bolt in swap. On any Oldsmobile engine, I only recommend performing advanced work, like cylinder head porting and valve size increases, after opening up the intake and exhaust systems. To feel all of the gains from cylinder head work, especially in a 307, Oldsmobile engines needs a better flowing intake manifold, a better camshaft, and 2-1/2" dual exhaust (no catalytic converters or high flow converters) with free flowing mufflers (something like dynomax mufflers). With a 307, prior to head work, it makes sense to start with the following upgrades in this order. ( Depending on your preference toward street torque or higher RPM.) 1) Intake manifold: Edelbrock Performer 7111 or Performer RPM 2711 2) Dual exhaust kit with 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" exhaust with something like dynomax mufflers 3) Camshaft: Mondello cam kits with JM-18-20 or JM-20-22 camshaft, or Iskenderian cam kit with 691264 or 691262 camshaft, there are hundreds of other camshafts to consider, I only use Mondello or Isky. After these upgrades are completed, the cylinder heads should be the most restricting factor. If further performance is desired, head work is the next logical recommended step.

@@junkdump2720 Seriously great information, I'm honestly grateful for you sharing this with me. Now I was told that the powerband or torque from the stock setup I have is in the lower rpm range, the zero to whatever take-off is fastest in my car. After it starts shifting up in gears, it's a dog accelerating. With this in mind, would you prefer one of the cams you recommended over the other? (if I do choose to rebuild this 307 vs a pre 1972 olds 350) Man I wish you were in New Hampshire, would love to have you look over my ride. You know your stuff brother.

@@dbeaumontresident847 First I need to know you are running for an intake and exhaust?

I am glad you found it helpful!

Great question, the bushings are engineered to be held in place with an interference fit. The distributor housing has tapered tabs that help center and hold the bushings in place. Thank you for the question.

Permanent side effect from taking a weeks worth of Lexapro.

@@junkdump2720 whats lexapro?

@@darrrenbetker4266 anxiety med I tried for a week to help with panic attacks after my father died.